Is there a way to make balsa wood stronger? I was thinking I could put a layer of wood glue on it and let it soak in but I wanted to know what you all think.
Topic by Pat Sowers 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Would anyone know how to make a rubber band gun like the one made by Vat19 here?: http://www.vat19.com/dvds/bandit-guns-pump-action-semi-automatic-rubber-band-gun.cfm I imagine making it would be fairly easy, but finding what pieces to cut out would be a challenge. The pieces probably would probably made out of thick cardboard preferably. (because cardboard is easy to get)
Topic by seawee65 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Our makerspace has a few people who are thinking about placing one or more orders for various materials. Most will be used on the laser cutter, but not all. Some of the materials we are looking for are: * Wood: basswood sheets, birch (or similar sturdy) plywood, etc * Acrylics * Leather (vegetable tanned) * Paper: undetermined cardboard and/or cardstock What companies are out there that would have a variety of these materials at good prices? (For comparison, we have been mostly leaning on the local Michaels - probably one of the most expensive options per-piece.) Thanks!
Topic by sing1ejack 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to make a R/C sailboat, so far I have 4x32x1/4 inch balsa wood planks and they should last me the entire project. This weekend I'm going to visit a hobby store and get: waterproof wood glue, waterproofer for the wood. Then go to target and get a rotary tool. The boat will be 3 inches tall with a 1 inch keel (keeps the boat from tipping) 5 inches wide and 15 inches tall. I will get a cheap multi directional R/C car and use the steering mechanism to move the rudder and the drive motor to turn the sail. Once I make the boat I'll fill the gaps with wood paste and water proof everything hopefuly with a silicon based sealant. Any tips or flaws with my plans, please see the attached sketch.
Topic by acer73 11 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Me and one of my friends (we are both second year engineering students) decided to both build an airship and see which performs better. It must be remote controlled and have a volume no larger than 1m^3. I have tried looking for instructables to help me make parts, and seen lots which help with ideas. can you point me in the direction of instructables which explain how to make a remote control for a simple open close valve, making of airtight bags, and general working with balsa wood.
Question by azaana 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Must have: mass- 45.0 grams or less length- must be longer than 38.0 centimeters (2.0 cm by 2.0 cm square rod must be able to pass through full length of roadway surface) height & depth- can't extend more than 12.0 cm above test support surface and 10.0 cm below it. roadway- will support 100lbs load, cannot be more than 2.0 cm above test support surface BRIDGES CAN'T BE WEDGED INTO SUPPORTS) someone please help, i'm stuck!
Question by erikabixby 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Is there a way to make your own breadboard? could you get 2 pieces of thin balsa, drill appropriate holes insert a layer if tinfoil between them? how do you do it???(if there is even a way) thanks for any help i receive regarding this topic
Topic by ledzep567 11 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have a project of dropping a package from the belly of balsa aircraft wireless. for that i m using servo motor and wireless TXr and RXr and IC 555 timer. can anyone help with the circuit diagram. any kind of help will be appreciate.
Question by hiren_rock1 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions about where I might find plans or tips for building a scale model of something like a viking longship or medieval man-o-war? Ideally what I would like is outlines of ribs and spars, etc. that could be transposed onto balsa or something else that's easy to work.
Topic by Captain Thumb 12 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I've always wanted to make a little wooden boat. It just so happens that I have a bunch of quality balsa wood and the Idea came across to make one, any Ideas how and what kind of glue or water proofer I would need. I wasn't able to find an iBles on how to make one. It just needs to be simple, I might turn it into a sail boat too.
Topic by acer73 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I am planning a project to build a wooden shield, and I need to know what the cheapest way to take a single sheet of balsa wood and bend it slightly and keep it like that. it will also have a design on it and I want it to look good. If you guys can help me in making it, the person with the best answer will be credited in the insructable. here is a reference picture. P.S. this is MY idea so if anyone posts an instructable on it, prepare for the gates of Hell to open.
Question by Iridium7 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am currently working on a new idea in which the nosecone of a model rocket is made from wood putty. Here are the steps: 1. Make a a frame made from a thin piece of balsa. 2. Fill in the four sections with a generous a mount of wood putty or wood filler. 3. Sand using a rough sandpaper, then something finer 4. Attach a dowel to the bottom and add a screw eye Do you think it will work?
Topic by TheBlackSharpie 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Okay, I'm making a little LED project and I'd like help on these following questions: On most switches there are three little prongs, which ones do I connect to which wires? Do I need a resistor for a simple, battery powered, LED circuit, with 16 LEDs? If so, what kind of battery do I need and what kind of resistor? Can LEDs shine through a thin layer (3-5 mm) of balsa wood? Thanks! -popewill
Question by popewill 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi, My students are building model cars our of balsa wood that move b/c of a dc motor. All of the motors I have are burning out - they can't run long, I used to have a dc motor that started out slow, built up speed and then ran fast and for a looooooong time. Does anyone know what type of motor i'm talking about? please help.....i gotta get them asap. thanks! patti:)
Question by mckywer 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
This is the most useless piece of wasted technology ever; the "men's groomer" "as seen on tv" !!!!!! I've bought two of these, planning to build from them something more useful, that is a circular etcher / drill and a sort of sliding saw, to etch / smooth / saw materials like hardened paperclay, glass, balsa wood and terracotta; but surely I've presumed to be smarter than I'm in electronics..... So I'm stuck with these two pieces of useless stuff in hand; do you know how to get an etcher and a saw from these? I'm sure there're many smart guys here. This may be one of the smartest instructables ever.
Topic by filt3r 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I am building a Sig Tiger rubber band-powered model. I know it's wimpy, but I don't have a budget for anything larger, or a place to fly it. My question is if anyone has experience with model airplane covering. Specifically, I read an article in an old RC Modeler magazine that said plastic wrap, attached with a glue stick, made excellent covering for light models, but that Monokote and Ultrakote will crush light balsa models when it shrinks. Has anyone ever tried this? I'm supposed to use tissue, according to the plans, but ew.Also, I have an ancient U-Control Waco SRE biplane that my uncle built when he was deployed to Korea. It has an old O.S. Max III 35 that has no hope of running again, but I want to at least recover it. Any suggestions for removing old covering? It seems to be Monokote-type stuff.
Topic by CameronSS 12 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I just had an idea for hallowe'en that I have neither the time nor the resources to do, but somebody else might.This would work best if your front door is some distance from the street, maybe with a creaky wooden porch to cross.Rig a fake wooden front door with a long inch-wide slot, top-to-bottom.Fill the slot in with a strip of something fragile (styrofoam? balsa? papier mache?). Maybe disguise the strip with smeared bloody hand-prints (especially round the door handle)Render a chainsaw "safe" (having never used a chainsaw, I don't know if this is possible - take the teeth off? replace the chain with a rubber belt?)When somebody rings the bell, start the chainsaw behind the door, give it a couple of revs and then cut through the fragile strip, laughing like a happy psycho.If the visitors are still there, stick one crazed eye up at the door and yell trick or treeeaaaat?Afterwards, mop the urine and faeces off your front step, replace the fragile strip, and settle back to wait for the next victim.
Topic by Kiteman 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
First posted here. Last Friday, I drove up to Maryland to see UMD's Gamera II human-powered quadrotor. They are currently pursuing the Sikorsky Prize, established in 1980. Here's the team testing a new control system. http://youtu.be/3B2of4V35d0 (sorry, the embed function isn't working) During this test, Gamera II flew for approximately 65 seconds, unofficially tying the endurance record that the team previously set. This flight time, plus the ability to remain within a specific boundary, satisfies two requirements of the Sikorsky Prize. Because the rotors are so close to the ground, the helicopter is benefiting from a cushioning effect of the air between the rotor blades and the ground. This effect will diminish exponentially when the team attempts sustained flight at the required 3 meters. The helicopter transfers the pilot's pedal power by unspooling cable from pulleys, mounted on the shafts of each of the four rotors. Flight time is limited by the pilot's stamina and the amount of cable stored in each pulley. The rotors are constructed of carbon fiber, balsa, and foam, and are covered in a plastic film. All in all, it was a cool experience. I've never seen so much carbon fiber in my life! I look forward to seeing the team win the Prize.
Topic by JamesRPatrick 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Burning Man, the famous weeklong festival of music, art, free expression, and much more in the Nevada desert, is just around the corner. Whether you're a Burning Man veteran, a first-timer, or someone who is interested from afar, here's a list of some Instructables that will help you prepare and make your unique Burning Man experience even better. General Advice TimAnderson's Tips by TimAnderson Learn all about Burning Man and easy, creative ways to keep yourself prepared and safe from TimAnderson's documentation of his trip to the festival last year. HalcyonPink's Tips by HalcyonPink In this video and the follow-up, Burning Man veteran HalcyonPink gives you his advice. Find Your Fashion Fire Skirt by la The popular fire skirt uses EL wire to give your clothes some personality. Angel Wings by fairywingsandthings If your attire of choice requires wings, you're well covered: you could try these angel wings or a different version . Color-Changing Scarf by enlighted You can't go wrong with clothes that light up. Electric Umbrella by sockmaster You can't go wrong with accessories that light up, either. Bikes and the Like Wobble Bike by dan For a fun twist on a regular bike, convert it into a wobble bike that you have to steer from both the back and the front. Kite-Powered Land Proa by aerohydro Derived from a water proa Instructable, this vehicle transplants the idea to land--ideal for flat, dry terrain like the playa. Tall Bike by TimAnderson Get an aerial view of all the action while you bike along with this tall bike that anyone can build. . Chopper Bicycle by KoolKat Few bike designs are as functional and attention-grabbing as the chopper, and you can follow these directions to upgrade your old bike, chopper style. Furry Pink Bike by HalcyonPink Burning Man is all about being creative and expressing yourself--and your bike is a perfect item to deck out in your own personal style. LED Bike Wheel Images by ladyada Transform your bike wheels with LEDs that you can program to glow to form various patterns, images, and designs . Shelter and Shade Parachute Shade Structure by benjcarson This Burning Man-tested structure will help protect you from the raw elements of the playa. Rebar Tent Stakes by tk1314 Normal tent stakes won't be too effective at Burning Man, but these made from rebar prevent impaling and will hold your tent firmly. Portable Yurt by TimAnderson This version of a yurt, a Mongolian tent-like structure, is portable and can be assembled and disassembled easily. Fire, Flying Things, and Other Fun Firebreathing by Tetranitrate A combination of fire, art, and fun, you can light up the desert night with firebreathing tricks. Cincinnati Fire Kite by stasterisk Kiting is a very popular activity at Burning Man, and you can join in with a this kite that combines flying and fire together into a night-time spectacle. Fire Staff by Stone Light both ends of the staff and spin to create your own patterns. Candle-Powered Hot Air Balloon by ewilhelm A simple combination of birthday candles, painter's plastic, and balsa wood can turn into a functional hot air balloon. Homemade Poi by Hydra Learn to make homemade practice poi that can be used anywhere--and check out other Instructables on how to spin poi and other DIY poi designs. If you're going to Burning Man this year, we hope this helps and have a fun, safe, and exciting experience!
Topic by joshf 10 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM Required Material of project:- 1. Basic Servo Tower pro 9g*4 2. Header pins Male female*2 3. Arduino Nano*1 4.10kΩ Resistor resistance*2 5. Trimmer Potentiometer track Linear; maximum resistance 10kΩ*4 6. Tactile push button*2 7. Blank circuit board*1 8. Acrylic strips for Robot & potentiometer body*2 9. Wires, Button, Switch 10.Balsa wood, Metal, Plastic Procedure:- Arrange all necessary items.. Please go through the attached images for better understanding.. I divide whole project in two parts 1) Servo Motor assembly 2) Potentiometer assembly 1) Servo motor assembly: – Servo motor as J1, J2, J3, J4 fix the servo motors as shown in image use 3M tape to glue servo, use thin flexible plastic strip to make griper, make hole in center of each finger tie thread in that hole pass this thread from center hole and tie knot at the other end of thread with 4th servo motor’s knob, as you stretch thread finger get close vise versa. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. 2) Potentiometer assembly: – Fix potentiometer as shown in figure name potentiometer as do previous R3, R4, R5, R6 this time place R6 separately for easy access this potentiometer control gripper to pick and place. Potentiometer arrangement symmetry must be same as servo arm. Fix whole arrangement on strong rigid base. Moving a little bolt from one side to the other side:- 1. Actuators / output devices: 4 micro servos 2. Control method: controlled by a PIC16F690 assembler firmware 3. CPU: PIC16f690 micro controller 4. Operating system: self made assembler code 5. Power source: 4.8V to 6V from 4 battery cells 6. Programming language: PIC Assembler 7. Sensors / input devices: teach in system with 4 potentiometers Making Processer:- The Potis are standard types and are screwed to the white plastic parts with their nuts. The axles are pressed into the transparent plastic part. The handle to move the teach-in-arm is a M3-Spacer and the socket is a plastic part with is normally used to fix balloons on a stick to hold it. move the motor itself by hand a little force is needed due to its permanent magnets, which create a small holding force. But inside the servo a lot of gears increase the force which you have to apply. If you move the servo by hand, you have to apply a much higher force. If you overcome the motors holding force, it starts to rotate an acts as a flywheel. So moving a servo by hand needs a high torque and its not easy to turn it to the position where you want it. ( Fan control modules for engine cooling of real cars have some extra parts to clamp the voltage which is generated, when you drive at higher speeds. In that case the fan works like a windmill and creates higher voltages than normal inside the power stage of the module.) And there were also a lot of other "problems" which had to be solved using my PIC Controllers. i.e. self made electronics for a RC-Excavator which works similar to the digital system used in slot cars. To replace a lot of wires between the rotating part of the excavator and the track unit, a small PIC 12F629 reads the pulses from up to 5 channels of a RC-Receiver and leads their information via a 2 wire connection to a second PIC12F629. At the second board the power is separated from the data. The PIC is reading the data, and generates the PWM output for the 5 Servo output connector. the 2 wire connection is made with a cheap 6,3mm mono microphone plug which is also used as the axle for the rotating part. The arm of the excavator is also powered by standard servos and so it was necessary to change the control behavior from proportional to integral so that the servos move like real hydraulic cylinders which are controlled by valves. I used the same 12F629 type for that job and added some features like adjustable limit positions and starting point programmable by one jumper, and automatic return to park position when missing the pulses for some seconds. The Software is simple:- Its working like a servotester for four axis. That means, every poti is connected to an analog in of the controller and all servos are connected to GPIOs. The controller reads each poti, does some scaling, so that the angle of the poti equals to the angle of the axis and finally he creates the PWM output 1-2ms pulse every 20ms for all servos. Teach mode:- After a reset the robot arm follows the teach in arm while simple mapping the analog inputs every 25ms to the servo motors. Pressing the button stores each servo position in a array. Play mode: The sketch reads the array step by step and moves the robot arm. For cool looking movements I added a routine calculates different micro steps for each servo to have moving start and end sync on all axis. Also added a ramp for soft increase/decrease velocity. Shorter travel distances the robot does slow, longer distances with faster speed. The program moves the servos at full speed to the next position and a short delay time after each command allows all of the servos to reach their final position. That means that it is possible to increase the speed a little bit more by doing some fine tuning of the delay times after each command. The final thing which is still not implemented is the routine which saves the "Teach In" data 5 or 10 times per second, so that the controller is able to replay it in a loop with the original speed or with a lower or higher speed. Electrical Connection:- Provide separate power supply (5V DC 1amps) to the Servo motors . Don’t forget to short ground of both power source ( arduino + servo) 5 DOF Robotic Mechanical ARM :- 1. Use of Fiber on upper side 2. wooden spoon is a part of side body 3. cable tie *12 pieces use the robotic. 4. Some pices of wires 5. use scraw*4 6. Glue 7. some small clips Because to attached body 8. small size of plastic box 9. One pieces of square fiber stand and one pieces small & medium circular fiber 10. L293D Motor Driver IC+IC Base KG143 11. Generic Elementz High Quality Nickel Plated 24*18 Points Bread Board*(2 pieces) and one plastic 12. Push Button Switch. Play Mode version 1.1 The gripper input is used to set the delay (0,1,3,15,60,300 seconds) after a loop is done. The switch (it was left from the project start) pauses the robot. Thanks you:
Topic by aarif1234 1 year ago