They are so ugly and ive been on the site for almost an hour and i still dont see anything i Love so if you have a favorite instructable that goes on the wall please let me know :)
Topic by ameliabedelia | last reply
Last night 5/22 we held a build night at Noisebridge with Bare Conductive paint. There was a great turn out with about 20-25 people including electronics beginners and experts. Some people worked on LED cards provided in Bare Conductive's Instructables. Others experimented with new projects - adding LEDs to sculptures and making pressure sensors. The big take away from the night is the paint is most conductive when it dries!! Special thanks to M.C. Langer for helping me organize and teach everyone and Mitch Altman for helping to coordinate the event.
Topic by Carleyy | last reply
I want to build a laptop, and I like the style of the Alienware cases. Thoughts on where I can find a barebones? (Links, and I'll love you forever)
Question by SneakyGeeky | last reply
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Topic by beserker | last reply
Hi everyone, I have been working on an idea for a new type of electronic creative art form. Social media has increasingly become cloud and computer-based, enabling people to network and share ideas and concepts online with others from around the world; this community is an excellent example of the power of electronics in fostering shared creativity. Art has always been an important aspect of society, bringing people together through the power of self-expression. In recent years, graffiti parks have become a popular method for communities to express themselves in a constructive way. In the area of electronics, circuitry and robotics have become increasingly accessible through open-source programs such as Arduino, enabling anyone to build complex and beautiful projects in their own garages (or anywhere!). This idea focuses on blending the social aspect of conventional art mediums with the untapped potential of electronic technology. One new technology in particular that has taken the first step towards merging the different fields of creativity is conductive ink and paint, created by Bare Conductive. This graphene-based material enables users to paint circuits and electrical systems onto most surfaces, opening up the entire world as a building area. Essentially, this is the focus of the idea- creative communities making the world their canvas through the power of conductive ink and open-source electronics tools. Imagine the possibilites! Walls covered with lights that can be activated by touching a drawn image, buildings covered with playable arcade games and interactive media, and childrens' parks with community-sourced learning tools on the play area! Of course, there's another aspect here; the social possibilities. See a circuit that someone didn't ever finish, or a piece of electronic art that you wanted to expand? Whip out your Arduino kit and ink bottle, and draw it in! Every wall would tell a story, and it would never stop growing. Our imaginations would be the only limit... What does everyone think of this idea? Let me know any thoughts or input you might have!
Topic by Chikpeas Brother | last reply
I wanted to make a clear enclosure for my latest project and I thought it would be cool to make a clear PCB, but I wanted to get a few opinions on my idea.. I was thinking about using a cnc machine to etch my circuit design in acrylic and then fill the recessed cuts with bare paint, then after drilling it out, using more bare paint to "solder" the components. I'm sure someone else has come up with this same idea, so I was wondering how it worked out for them. Thanks guys!
Topic by emikayee | last reply
Hi Everyone! Just wanted to let you know that our Touch Board is up on Kickstarter, make sure to check it out! You guys have done such amazing stuff with our Electric Paint, we can't wait to see what you do with the Touch Board. The Touch Board is a way to turn almost any surface into an interface.In the last two years, you have have shown us that there is a real interest in developing unexpected interactions with our Electric Paint among other materials. We decided to make the electronics a whole lot simpler by developing the Touch Board. It is an Arduino-compatible board with a specific capacitive sensing chip and an MP3/MIDI player on board. Check out the Kickstarter page for all the details. There is a ton of cool stuff about the board, but it basically boils down to three points: Radical Interfaces: The Touch Board uses capacitive sensing to turn any conductive material into an interface. Imagine light switches painted on the wall with our Electric Paint, interactive books or hidden sensors that can detect a whole person. The Touch board can also be used to create distance sensors which work from up to 20cm away - which is as cool as it sounds. No Programming Required: We'll be shipping the Touch Boards pre-programmed to turn touch into sound so all you'll need to do is plug in a micro USB cable or LiPo (we've built in onboard charging) and a speaker and you're ready to go. Touch any one of the electrodes and the MP3/MIDI player will play the associated track from the supplied microSD card. Changing the sounds is as simple as changing the card. Arduino-compatible: We wanted to make sure that this board was easy to use and had as wide an audience as possible so we based it off an Arduino Leonardo. It can be programmed in the Arduino IDE, it works with most shields and it can act as an HID. We're proud to say that we're part of the new Arduino at Heart program. Working with Arduino has been great and they're fully behind the Touch Board. Check out our campaign for a lot more info and let us know what you'd make with the Touch Board! THANKS! - Bare Conductive
Topic by Bare Conductive
I would like to use whether six AA or one 9Volt external battery for a diy "bare-bone" arduino* (*just the 328p atmega, 8MHz oscilator, capacitors, resitor, LED) & tested LM317, LD1086, LM1117 voltage regulators (it's a "budget" project – hence didn't try any step-up/step-down switching regulators though they seem to be the best solution ...); ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ SUITABLE POWER/CURRENT? can i "simply connect" any of the regulators (incl. the necessary resistors/capacitors according to their datasheets) or do i need to add resistors to reduce their current in order to not "over-power"* them? * according to the values i measured (i am a novice to arduino's power management … could have made mistakes whilst measuring) LM317 = ca. 2A @ ca. 3.3V with 100 & 160 Ohm resistors LD1086 = ca. 1A @ ca. 3.3V with 100 & 160 Ohm resistors LM1117 = ca. 1A @ ca. 3.3V without resistors according to dataheets/descriptions of several arduino boards (but i might have misunderstood – this might not have any impact on the power source … ) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ TRYING TO PROTECT & REDUCE POWER FOR ADDITIONAL FEATURES ... LED to indicate that there is power flowing … hoping that this reduces the power consumption: - a 20 KOhm pullUp resistor ? Protect from charge … hoping that this protects the circuit from capacitors' stored charge: - 2* 1N4001 on voltage regulator? ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ i look forward to your advice …
Question by marc_is_curious | last reply
Sometimes a contestant barely fits the contest theme. Sometimes it clearly does not. Can an entry be disqualified for not being of the theme? Some projects seem to get votes for being cool regardless of whether they are entered in the right contest.
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I have this dress that is just BARELy too small in the bust area. Its a strapless sweatheart neckline dress. It has boning a side zipper, so I am not sure what to do. Originally, I thought I would just add some ribbon up the back. Since its strapless with and really loose once its past the bust area (BRAIN FART, I cannot think of the word...) the ribbon would only lace up about 6 inches in the back. BUt the zipper is on the side, so I dont know what to do. also, the dress is a sheer fabric, with two layers and will not be the easiest to sew. And, it has boning. Any ideas?
Question by Bansteatt84 | last reply
Hello and thank you for the help. See image, forgive crude rendering... I'm going to to connect two USB females in order to hold two USB males. I want to disguise the ugly metal part which is usually inside the PC port with some sort of material. The only electronics involved might be bridging the females, but not a must if it will disturb the coating process (e.g. if heat is required). I'd appreciate a pointer, and thanks again for your help. Y.
Question by yanivn | last reply
The new image note style where there are only 4 little dots in the corners of the image note is really hard to see, let alone if there are a few adjacent image notes (it's harder to see which is which), and let alone if the background is white or a bright color. i really don't like this new image not style. i liked the simple old yellow boxes the most. they were the best ever... also, the new way to view images on instructables is really uncomfortable. i have a few instructables with pages that have a lot of pictures, and now the pages are just endless. once again, the older way was much much better, if you ask me. please consider bringing them back.
Topic by Sharir1701 | last reply
I recently bought an arduino and bare conductive board and really need help trying to code three things at once. So the idea is to use a servo motor, audio speaker, and lights to go off when in proximity of the electric paint. The project itself is having a mouth open and sounds/ lights come on. From what I can tell I can get the audio with bare conductive board, but not sure how to hardware the servo and the lights on the board either. I can see online its possible to hardware the arduino with a bread board with sensor coding, speakers and lights, but for the audio its beeps. With the bare conductive you get the mp3 storage capacity.
Question by NicholasK35 | last reply
Its a very low ceiling. I have some translucent colored vellum (8.5x11). There are several bare lights. My housemates and I want to make a living area down there, there are some couches and a carpet. The walls are stone/concrete (unfinished). General decorating tips are also welcome. I was thinking about star shaped covers, or pin prick art, or something.
Question by wearingpink | last reply
I took my raider apart and now the dart barely gets out of the barrel i took a couple pieces out and dont know where half of them go somtimes the dart doesnt even get out it looks fine inside but it doesnt work
Question by taowyman | last reply
The pressure to the sink in the same bath is fine. What could be the problem for the reduced flow to the tub/shower but not the sink? I've tried changing shower heads but this didn't help?
Question by staceyjamesrn | last reply
We took the old refrigerator out and tried to put a refrigerator in that we had in our old house but it is about 1/2 inch to wide. What would be the easiest way to make it fit. The kitchen counter is causing the problem and there is plenty of room on the top.
Question by mccroan2 | last reply
I have some ball bearing yo-yos, and I have never lubricated them before. Is that bad? if it is, what should i do? and if lubrication is needed, how often do you do it? thanks!
Question by salomon1996 | last reply
Would it be possible to use Bare Paint or any other electrically conductive fluid as a substitute for ink in any inkjet printer. Then printing onto a thin piece of plastic, or even paper, then gluing it to plastic. I have no idea if this would be possible. It was just a random thought I had.
Topic by aprzy15 | last reply
Has anyone repaired a digital oven/stove display module (Electrolux Part 318010100) that is now very dim and barely visible? It seems to be a common problem on ovens and ranges with the digital displaysâ¦. they progressively seem to become dimmer with ageâ¦
Question by 96tears | last reply
I have one large, completely bare wall and a corner space that has about a metre to 1.5m lee way on each side , not to mention a built in robe that will be naked and bare, I have a bit of artistic flare but I don't know where to start when it comes to things this size, help! some examples of what I can do attached (2nd referenced, I take no creative credit) (bonus kudos for something three dimensional or even functional!)
Question by Spook-rabbit | last reply
One thing I am working on is looping the headset speaker back into the mic. This way it plays everything you hear back to the game. You may wonder why in the hell anyone would want to do that? well, this is for those Really annoying people or kids with really annoying voices(squeakers) When they start being annoying or making sounds, I can plug the modded headset in, so they can hear just how dumb they sound. I took apart my headset and there are 4 wires, 1 blue, 1 red wire, 1 white wire, and a bare wire. the red and blue wire go to the speaker, and the bare wire and white wire go to the mic I've googled more about it and it seems the white wire is a ground so does that mean I just solder the blue, red, and bare wire together and I'm done? thnx for any help you can give. (P.S. Yes the Picture is correct, the bare wire looks red, but is really brass, and the black wire is really red, with a plastic enamel.)
Topic by Jordo | last reply
I bought a standard shower radio, but once I take it into my bathroom it doesn’t pick up any stations. It’s a Conair SR9, with no external antenna. Is there a way to add an antenna or boost it so that I can pick up more stations?
Question by pronechr | last reply
This new kayak has a seat, foot pegs, and cup holder. I would like ideas for installing a glove compartment container (similar to what a car has) inside of boat to hold personal protection items carried during my nature paddles on calm lakes & rivers. I have purchased a deck rigging kit, but have not decided on layout yet. What ingenious suggestions do YOU have?
Question by robynky | last reply
Hi, I have in my lab room thick tinted copper wire. I planned using them to make some electromagnet, but fail to find a solution on how to insulated them. At first I thought using those acrylic/enamel can spray, but I am not sure if it would fully insulated them. Would the acrylic/enamel penetrate between the contact gap and insulated them or will it just fail to do so? In fact, I am not even sure if it's a good idea to begin with, because I don't want to actually waste the copper. As an alternate option I thought using those magnet wire from the Microwave Oven transformer, the one with really thick diameter. I would uncoil them, and manually turn them. I thought I could use some of your advice. Actually, I dont mind if the process takes time, I am just looking a convenient way. Thanks Richard
Question by richardphat | last reply
I have 4 rooms and each have a light fixture and a switch controlling each of the lights. . The power source from the electrical panel is entering the 1st light fixture and then to each of the other light fixtures. I am using 12/2 with a ground Romex wire. There are only 3 wires in the Romex. One is white, one is black, and one is bare. Please tell me which wires connect to each other in the octagon boxes in the ceiling where the light fixtures are and which wires connect in the respective switch box. Please use wire colors(white, black, bare)when explaining the wires that will connect. No need to explain the "bare wire" connections because I will connect all of them together back to the panel and from there to ground. Thanks for your help! Louisiana bayou backdoor
Topic by themanpan68 | last reply
I'm having some trouble deciding whether to buy a bare bone kit computer for less and build it, or buy a more expensive pre-built one.Here's one of TigerDirect's bare bone kits-http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3825393I like this one but the main problem is that I'm worried i will get all the connections messed up (serial cables, pin connectors, etc.) But it is about $100 less than this pre-built one belowhttp://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8885575&type;=product&id;=1212192194316So here's the whole thing in short- the bare bone kit computer i might screw up, but it is a lot less than a pre-built one (I'll probably trust the pre-built one more).Please help me decide which one.
Topic by Caveman477 | last reply
Car starts easy and runs great till I stop and try to re-start car. Then I get a "check engine" light and it will barely start and barely get me home. Have replaced everything it needed such as: Fuel pump-Re-built distributor-battery-catalytic convertor and it still does it. Want to do the paper-clip trick on the ALDL but I can't find it under the dash. Can anyone help???
Question by oakridge1956
It's that time of year again, end of the Summer term, and for a lot of kids it's their last few days in school. #2 Son's teacher runs the school's gardening club, so we bought her a trowel. He wrote a message on the blade, and I dremelled it through to the bare metal*. What are you (or your kids) making for their teachers? Post a picture here, if you don't mind looking like a teacher's pet... *We also wiped over the bare metal with 3-in-1 oil to slow down the rust, since we'd exposed the metal.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I have a xbox 360s and i want to play starwars battlefront on it without spending barely anything
Question by theboygenius | last reply
Im trying to make myself a soundboard because I'm tired of having speakers that are not compatible. i would like to have a 3.5 mm audio jack and RCA audio inputs. Switches so i can choose which input I want to use. I then want to have a 3.5 mm audio jack, RCA audio, and bare speaker wires as outputs. I also will need an amplifier for when the input is a an IPOD for example. And to amplify the sound through the bare speaker wires. I'm not exactly sure how to wire it all but here is my plan.
Question by chance633 | last reply
So i've disasemble my lcd monitor and builded a new frame for it, the back of the lcd is in metal and there are two pcb's attached to it so i was wondering if I needed to add some material to isolate the component from the metal plate behind the monitor? Usually the pcb's are mounted on a plate to it won't touch the monitor directly. Thanks
Question by bluepills | last reply
My Chinese Water Dragon is almost always shedding in at least one spot, and I was wondering, is it harmful in any way to pull of a big peice that is mostly shed, but just sitting on him? I have been keeping reptiles for years, but this is one question I have. Does it harm his new skin in any way? I have been doing so, and he seems fine, but is there a problem with that?
Question by TheChemiker | last reply
Ok, so im still relatively new to electronics so please bare with me. But say i were to make this table with an 8x8 matrix, as far as the wiring is concerned, is it really as simple as making the matrix and programming it with an arduino?
Question by texpert | last reply
What is the best, quickest and easiest, way to strip the insulation from rainbow ribbon cable without damaging the wires? I want to bare the wires for connecting LCD displays to computer devices.
Question by Johenix | last reply
Well, the truth is i too am a hobbist of many things,electronic to creativity fabricating parts,gadgetsare just a few things, i need to prepare them to share with all. amazing things can happen if you put your mind ! thank you, madmartha
Question by madmartha | last reply
At my dads work they throw away barely used D and C batteries I would like to use them to power and charge devices.
Question by adamz | last reply