How to upload a sketch to a barebones arduino? Answered

Hey friends! After seeing a few instructables on making a barebones arduino i decided to make one. But there is a problem. I cannot find and FTDI serial to USB cable around. Also i read that a duemilanove can be used to upload the sketch. I have an UNO. Can it be used to upload sketch without taking off the ic because i think that i will be damaged while snapping off. Plz help.

Question by DELETED_Snehil1101   |  last reply


barebones car charger

Hey guys and gals. this is my first post and i'm thinking you can really help me out. i'm working on a project for which i need a basic car charger. i'm trying to install a male and a female on opposite ends of some tubing and have sections be stackable one on top of another. for now i can take an old male phone charger and dremel it down and gut it but i'd like to eventually have a place that i can purchase a (preferably) vacant male car charger and an unattached female sleeve. if anyone has seen something out on the interwebs that is anything close to barebones please let me know! Thanks, Abraxas

Topic by Mighty Abraxas   |  last reply


SMD Soldering without Soldermask?

I'm working on a project and I needed to get a PCB made. I was planning on getting it from BatchPCB, but I ran into a little problem... I'm using a NAND Flash chip, which is TSSOP48; the footprint has 6mil spacing! (BatchPCB has a 8mil minimum) The next cheapest solution would be Barebones PCB, which makes prototype PCBs without soldermask & silkscreen. I'm worried about soldering on the Flash chip, and another LQFP48. Will the lack of a soldermask make it impossible to do?

Topic by zachninme   |  last reply


Where can I purchase a barebones laptop? (preferably Alienware)? Answered

I want to build a laptop, and I like the style of the Alienware cases. Thoughts on where I can find a barebones? (Links, and I'll love you forever)

Question by SneakyGeeky   |  last reply


How to program an AVR barebone atmega328?

HI,ALL Now i want to program an barebone atmega328,I searched the net for methods of doing so,the rock that i bumped my head on was the 'boards'file.I bootloadded the chip with ISP method, then found the 'boards file' stating 'barebone atmega328 with internal 8M crystal'.the case i am using is an external 16M crystal.as the test rerult is not what it turn out to be,so i want to know if the 'internal 8M crysta' is OK?

Question by gada888 


Custom built laptop?

Hello people.  I'm new to this business of building laptops, so I don't know anything, even where to get the parts. I would like to build a nice gaming laptop. My budget is 1000$, so if anyone is able to post a good set of parts including the barebone (so the parts would fit the barebone). Thanks in advance. 

Question by Dan070   |  last reply


Wiring up ID-12?

Hello guys, I am soon going to use the id-12 in a project but I'm a noob in this kind of stuff. I want to connect an external antenna (coil with a capacitor) Do I just wire that to pins 3 and 4? I also want to use a very 'barebones' circuit to actually make this thing work. I Posted another question and I think I can connect pins 8 and 9 to a serial-to-usb cable (not sure how to do that either). Can someone guide me onto wiring this thing?  Thanks

Question by Seifpic   |  last reply


Proximity key fob for motorcycle

Hey guys, I am working on a custom barebones motorcycle. I want to make the starting system incredibly simple by just carrying a keycard or fob that can be sensed within 4-5 feet of the bike which would allow me to just kick start it and go. I worked in access control before and to my knowledge the cards and fobs needed to be placed basically on top of a sensor to activate it, is there any way to give in just a touch more range? so just having it in my pocket would close the circuit and allow me to kick start the bike? wiring it in isn't a problem, I just need a switch that would sense a fob 4-5 feet away and close a switch. thanks! Rob

Topic by ApoX   |  last reply


Ceramic resonator vs. Quartz crystal for arduino? Answered

Hey- I'm going to build some Arduino clones (as posted from http://fritzing.org/projects/barebones-arduino/ ) and was wondering if it would be better to use a crystal or a ceramic resonator. i will be ordering from Tayda Electronics (Ive ordered before, 10 days shipping for rock bottom prices, I'm ok with that) and the resonators and crystals are +-5c. difference, so I was wondering if I could use resonators, since they are a bit cheaper and I'm ordering a few (around 8). Which ones would be better? Also, does anyone know for the circuit from the above link would work with a 4.5v supply if I just left out the 5v regulator? Many thanks- Astroboy907

Question by astroboy907   |  last reply


Cheap way to make an arduino play multiple sounds (MP3/WAV)?

First off, I know that doing this straight forward is not possible. The are a few ways I think I can do this. The main one I'm looking at is to have a MP3/WAV board hooked up to a speaker. I'll have two setups, one that is set to have three sounds (start, stop, fire, and only one of those three sounds would play at a time) and the second setup would have an alarm (this would have to play at the same time as the fire sound).  The issue I'm running into now is that I would like to have this all on the same PCB, as I plan to make a barebone arduino.  I'm sure there are better ways to do this, or that someone has a schematic to make just the sound board. Either will work. Thanks in advance! 

Question by DoctorWoo   |  last reply


Help me reproduce this Corinthian Capital Glass Floor Lamp for my dad's wedding! Plz!

The Corinthian Capital Glass Floor Lamp is an amazing lamp by Restoration Hardware. Just look at its picture and tell me its not! I can reproduce the corinthian sculpture part. What I need your help with is the glass cylinder that makes up the body. Its dimensions are 12" by 87", but I'm estimating the glass cylinder needs to be at least 45" (barebones minimum), but would prefer it to be much taller, like 60" to maintain the same powerful presence, and about 5-9" wide. I need a source, size, and price for a clear glass cylinder 45-60"+ tall and about 5-8" wide Showed my dad the design today and he fell in love with it, so I'm hoping to surprise him!

Question by nizzo   |  last reply


Arudino countdown timer? Answered

I'm looking to make a countdown timer for my local card shop for games of Magic (nerdy, I know). However, I think I jumped the gun, as I have no idea how to do this.  My plan is to us an arduino nano/barebone arduino as the brains to this, make my own 4 digit 7 segment display, and have give it a programmable time (nothing over 50 minutes) along with a start, stop, and reset button.  I've done quite a bit of looking, and have yet to find something that matches my needs or comes close to it so I can reverse engineer the code a bit. Any sort of help on this would be greatly appreciated!  Should also mention I'm a tad bit of a newbie to C. I know enough to know where i need to look for a good chunk of things, but thats for simple things like "make this LED blink according to these random inputs"

Question by DoctorWoo   |  last reply


How to make a mains power AC voltage meter for input as an MCU sensor?

Hi, I live off grid and need to keep an eye on various properties from various power sources. This includes, VDC 12-24 from the solar panels, VAC 220 from the fallback generator. VAC 220 from the inverter into the house. I can find off the shelf sensors for the AMPS which can feed into various MCUs I can find circuits to build sensors for AMPS, not a problem. What I cannot find is either off the shelf VOLTS level indicator sensors or circuits that do not involve plugging in walt-warts to bring the voltage down. Space is a premium so ideally I wanted to plug a live and neutral wire into one end of a pcb and have hopefully an analog 0-5 VDC representation coming out of the other. I have in my box some small 6, 9 and 12 unregulated mains VAC transformers. I find it strange that I can buy from China a small LCD with Volts, Amps, Watts and Hertz for about 8€ but not a barebones system which is what I need. So if anyone knows how to either hack one of these Chinese meters to give MCU usable input data or can help me build a meter, I would be very grateful. My son-in-law is an electrician but electronics is alien to him. So he can oversee the safety on big stuff. Thanks and kind regards, jB

Question by britesc   |  last reply


Starting point for designing an android handheld game device?

I've had plenty of ideas before, and one of them was to design my own game system.  Specifically, a handheld. Years back, it was just something that was like the DS - basic system with some random ideas, and of course, could play games.  Now? Figured I'd hop on the bandwagon and now I wanna do something with android - or something similar to it. Think to those PSP knockoffs that use android.  Only 1000x awesome. Fairly high density screen (not quite retina display quality... but a decent resolution) CAPACITIVE Multi-touch screen Physical buttons Sleek case This is the type of thing I'd want.  Probably some kind of modified SD Card would be used for non-downloaded games, or something.  Or SOME kind of chip-based storage device. If anything, this is first and foremost intended as a personal project for the sake of learning, and creating something.  Even if it doesn't become something that's sold to people, I'd love to eventually invest cash into this, if only to say "Hey, I made this".  So money and everything isn't an object... I just have to actually save up the cash, and of course figure out the final cost of this thing. Unfortunately, while I have built a PC before, I can't say I fully figure out what I'd need for this project.  The following is what I assume I need: Power source (AC Adapter, batteries/battery pack (lithium ion probably?). LCD Screen+Digitizer Motherboard Ram Flash storage (SSD or mini HDD?) Embedded OS (or dedicated storage for the OS and any updates?) Speakers Buttons PCB board ... It's rather early, and there's plenty of other things I figured I'd need for this stuff, including various tools, whatever is used for etching the PCB, solder, etc...  The main thing though, for the barebones stuff - excluding a case, and anything else... What are the very specific things I need?  The basic electronics... input, video (output), some sort of storage/ram.. I'm not quite sure how I'd go about doing this.  Nor have I found anyplace online to start reading up on this.  How would I have to deal with the screen?  What kind of board do I need?  Where would I find a place that can create custom chips (if needed) or, where would I find the various processors I need for this (ARM processors?  intel instead?)

Question by anthonyloprimo   |  last reply


A Hybrid of Coil and Rail gun

So I said i'd throw this up in the comments section on Youtube not too long ago, and I don't like it when something easy and free doesn't happen. This is some ideas and observations that have to do with coil guns (mostly). I'm in the process of finishing up several projects, so my resources are kinda spread out. I should have a prototyped coil gun finished in 2-3 weeks though, so if this doesn't clear things up, hopefully that video will. I should point out, I am a chemist with expertise in biochemistry, not electrical engineering. Basically my idea is to combine a railgun and a coil gun for the expressed purpose of avoiding the pitfalls that a pure coilgun or a pure rail gun have. At present, none of the designs out there would be capable of competing with an actual gun. By mixing the two, i'm hoping to get something that might eventually be capable of doing so. So.. I've included a very poor drawing (I'm not an artist). The barebones circuit is sketched in the lower right hand corner. The gun barrel, which is a piece of aluminum tubing split into two pieces to sever as a rail system, is sketched in the upper left, and again in the middle figure to show how to integrate the coil and rail system. Looking at the circuit design, you can see that this starts off as a very basic capacitor-inductor circuit. The charge is purposefully allowed to trickle through the circuit until the coil reaches saturation and the capacitor(s) are charged. When the trigger is pushed, the inductor side of the circuit has to dump into the rail system to complete the full closed loop. Because of the ferromagnetic material (the brown stuff), the magnetic force persists for a while (that is to say, it has high reluctance). The ferromagnetic material does one other thing that is important here. It forces the middle of the coil to be far off center. The coil is pulling the projectile into the middle of the magnetic field, but that is not necessarily in the center of the winding. Adding ferrite, or other high reluctance material, towards the end of the barrel biases the field towards that end.  At the same time that the coil stops getting current, the rail system become active. This allows a charge to pass through the bullet/projectile, and, even though the majority of the force is going to be caused by the inductive coil, the rail system allows an eddy current to setup in the bullet. This does several things. First the bullet doesn't have to be iron, nickel, or cobalt. With a stray eddy current in the projectile, any conductive material will work. The advantage here is that once the current stops, the non-magnetic material stops being  to the magnetic field, preventing backwards acceleration of the projectile as it exits the barrel.  Second, Rail systems and coil systems are not often used because they are perpendicular to one another, but, this can be used to put spin on the projectile, in a similar manner to rifling in a barrel.  After the projectile is fired, the circuit is open, preventing excessive electrical discharge.  My circuit design is really badly drawn... =T if it needs more explanation please post up questions. 

Topic by Qcks   |  last reply