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Circuit Design for DC to DC Buck-Boost Converter

Sir, I am Anand from india, I will made a project based on bicycle. I have take 5 to 80v From my Bicycle pedals. Generator power is in AC 3-Phase. I want to made next step. in this I want to this 3-Phase AC 5 to 80V are constant At 48V DC. I put the 4 batteries in series. 12V 20Ah battery I use. I want to charge this batteries please help me. Thank you.

Question by AnandC10    |  last reply


DIY 4-component Buck converter, no ICs, need help with maths

I'm building a bike light around a Seoul P4 LED and some re-purposed 18650 li-ion cells from a laptop battery. I'll need 700mA constant current and can comfortably fit 8 cells in my enclosure. I've done some reading and I should be able to build a Buck converter relatively easily, but I'm struggling to find any good guides to help me spec the components. I asked on Dave Jones's EEVBlog forums and all the replies recommended either Linear Regulators (wasteful) or something designed using Webbench, which only helps with circuits featuring ICs. As a buck should in theory only need a transistor, a diode, an incuctor and a capacitor I want to build it myself out of through-hole components. Can anyone help with some guides or tutorials on specifying these components please? My degree was Computer Science and I was definitely better at set theory and boolean algebra than anything involving formulae!

Topic by ederfel    |  last reply


Help with a voltage regulator for a DIY bench psu

Hello i have an atx that i would convert into a diy bench power supply but i just realize that it was just 12v and my thing work need more voltage range so i decided to use an old, but still working, Hp 30v ps. so i was looking for a way to regulated it easy, i found the lm2596 and i dont know if it would endure or use lineal regulator such the lm317. so, i need help for any inexpensive alternative or any schematics, or whatever let me step up/down the voltage. Thanks.

Topic by mario.negretemunoz    |  last reply


Circuit Design for DC to DC Buck-Boost Converter

Sir, I am Anand from india, I will made a project based on bicycle. I have take 5 to 80v From my Bicycle pedals. Generator power is in AC 3-Phase. I want to made next step. in this I want to this 3-Phase AC 5 to 80V are constant At 48V DC. I put the 4 batteries in series. 12V 20Ah battery I use. I want to charge this batteries please help me. Thank you.

Topic by AnandC10    |  last reply


Which Boost/buck converter? LTC3780 vs LM2577S LM2596S

Hi, brought two boost buck converters to build a bench power supply from a atx psu.  Brought the LM version first as i have read previously that these are quite efficient, then seen the LTC one, so thought i might as well buy that as well.  Looks like the LTC board will be able to go down to lower voltages and appears to have a greater efficiency, quoted up too 98%, compared with the LM's at around 80%. Thou i understand that with adjustments changes efficncey.  LM2577S LM2596S http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281777880409?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT LTC3780 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/332009159315?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName;=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Which one do you think i should use? Regards

Topic by JonathanM221    |  last reply


Power a Raspberry Pi and an audio amp on the same circuit?

Hello. I want to use a 3A 12V power supply to power a Raspberry Pi Zero W and a 12v/50W audio amp. I think what I should do is a) split the power from the supply, b) connect the amp directly to the 12V and c) on the other leg, pass the source through a step-down buck converter. I have two questions:1. Is this feasible?2. I also want to pass the 12V through a relay that will be controlled by the Pi. Will this mean that all 3A will go to the Pi when the relay is open and the amp is off? Is that bad?Thanks!

Question by flagrantfouler    |  last reply


Constant voltage AND constant current? Answered

Hi, smart people of the internet :) Is there a power supply or a converter that can be set on a specific voltage and current, and keep both constant at the same time? I looked at ebay converters like B3606, DPS5015, BST400 and the like. They all have constant voltage (CV) and constant current (CC) settings, but they can't do both at the same time. If for example the current being drawn is too high, the unit switches from CV to CC and drops the voltage as much as needed to keep the current constant. Is a simultaneous CC CV power supply even a thing? Thanks!

Question by Morgantao    |  last reply


isolated buck converter idea Answered

I was wonder as a proof of concept, will this work? this schematic below works by charging a high current capacitor which has a small amount of series inductance to temporarily limit the current, and after charging, the switch (similar to the H bridge configuration) dumps the charge into a storage/smoothing capacitor. By using this method, one can eliminate the cost of transformers in isolated buck converters. A control circuit will control the pulse width into the smoothing capacitor through a negative feedback loop (AKA, as the voltage on the storage cap rises to a target value, the PWM will decrease until the high current capacitor is permanently connected to the DC supply. as the voltage drops, the duty cycle will increase to a 50% maximum.) I am just curious why this might not work, and if it does, does such a system already exist?

Question by -max-    |  last reply


Buck Converter for Parallel LED's

So I am trying to make a gift for someone that will include about 100 LEDs. These LEDs have a forward voltage of 1.8-2.2 ( I am going with 2V) and a max continuous forward current of 30mA. The LEDs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-10mm-10000mcd-LED-Lamp-Ultra-Bright-Red-Light-DIY-New-/180763201504?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item2a16538fe0 Now, I want to be able to plug this sign into a wall so I have purchased an AC to DC power adapter that plugs in into a standard 120V AC outlet and supplies 12V with 2A of current. Here it is: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261176168283 I know one way I could make this work is to have multiple series of 6 LEDs, as 6 LEDs in a series would then require 12V. However, it would make this project a LOT easier to have all the LEDs in a parallel circuit, so I can connect one whole side to the positive terminal and one whole side to the negative terminal. I wanted to know if I could do this: Plug the two wires (+ and -) going from the AC to DC adaptor into a Buck Converter set to 2V and wire it to all the LED's via one wire to a bus wire connected to all of the LEDs' negative terminals and same for the positive terminals.  The converter I was looking at: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Step-Down-Breadboard-Power-Module-1-25V-36V-5A-/321355701600?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item4ad24add60 Also, if I place the switch in between the AC to DC power adapter and the buck converter, the converter would only be on when the LED's are on, right? Lastly, would all the LEDs have the same brightness? I know at 2V with 100 LEDs the output would need to be about 3A. Is it okay given that the power adapter supplies 2A but at a higher voltage? As in does the converter convert the electricity to a lower voltage but a higher current?

Topic by soulmouse    |  last reply


How to earn a quick Buck!?!?!?!?!?!?

I having money trouble and i need to know how i can earn a quick buck?!?!?!?

Topic by killer7    |  last reply


Mechanical Bucking Rodeo Bull

Hey everyone, does anyone have plans or know a website that explains how to make your own mechanical bucking bull? Doesn't have to be as complicated as a proper one, just something to have a bit of fun on, and not too expensive to make. Thanks!

Topic by tapdogs1    |  last reply


Led buck converter schematic Answered

I have been looking for a led buck converter schematic for quite some time now and i haven't been able to find one that suits my needs. i have a single 3 watt led that i believe needs 700ma to run. My whole purpose for the converter is to dim the led so it will have a longer battery life. i'll run it off of some rechargeable batteries that i can remove. Also i would like to be able to purchase most of the parts fairly easily. The requirements of the buck converter. -Compact -Battery powered -Dimmable -Capable of powering a 3w 700ma led This is a link to the data sheet of the led: http://futurlec.com/LED/LUXEON_3W_WHITE.shtml Thanks in advance

Question by Logan Hanssen    |  last reply


motor as a generator + buck converter

Hi, for a school project, I have to make a wind-powered smartphone generator. So would I be able to use a 12v motor as the generator and a boost converter to convert the current to 5v? If so what kind of voltage will the motor produce? And what kind of diode will I need to prevent backwards current?  thanks. 

Question by MukymooD    |  last reply


Ultra low voltage buck converter

I want to step down voltage from a 1.2/1.5v battery to 0.05V. Any advice?

Topic by huzefa    |  last reply



What buckpuck should I use with a 12 volt 5 amp/hour SLA battery with a Cree MC-E LED? Answered

First:  The Cree MC-E LED is rated at 350 milliamps but has a max voltage of 700 milliamps.  Does that mean I should get a 350 or 700 milliamp driver.   Two:  On ledsupply there are wired buckpucks with external dimming and potentiometers.  What is the difference between external dimming and what a potentiometer would do (lower the voltage and so dim the light)? Three:  On Deal Extreme it says driving voltage/current is 3.2V~3.5V, 350mA~700mA.  On ledsupply it says "12.8Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 350mA and 13.6Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 700mA?  What is the difference between driving and forward voltage/current?  What voltage and current comes out of the buckpuck? I am trying to make a bike light.  Thanks for the input -jacob

Question by Noblenutria    |  last reply


Use of IC Buck-Boost drivers in automotive LED lighting projects

I've been contemplating the use of high power amber or yellow LEDs in a low cost automotive warning system (think tow truck).  However, car electrical systems are not set at 12v.  They can range from 9 to 19v with spikes up to 70v.  To protect the components I would need more than just a current limiting resister.  Under those conditions they would need a buck-boost driver.  Unfortunately I'm new to ICs/power LEDa and not sure where to start.  I was hoping someone would be able to help me out with further guidance.  I Thanks! -Mike

Topic by vanmankline  


MATLAB Simscape Power Systems & Electronic ?

Hello! I need tutoring MATLAB Simscape Power Systems and Electronic. I am working on a project in which I am trying to simulate Photo voltaic panel charging battery with controller ( dc-dc buck-boost converter) with Maximum Power Point Tracker and without it. I need to calculate efficiency for both cases. I have stared part of it with searching online Please, if you can help let me know

Question by skumu    |  last reply


Do you always need a buckpuck for high powered LEDs? Answered

I want to power a Cree MC-E LED with a 12 volt 5 amp/h SLA battery.  Most of the time you have to use a buckpuck (an LED Driver).  Do you always have to use a buckpuck?  If I have a 12 volt battery and a 12 volt LED like the CREE MC-E, then I don't need a driver, right? Thanks Jacob

Question by Noblenutria    |  last reply


64 w solar panel without a charge controller or battries but using a buck converter for direct regulated power?possible?

Greetings and thanks in advance for all the help. i shall start with explaining the situation.  i am going to be in the remote himalayas for about 2 months with a expedition team and for all our charging needs  we are going to carry a few solar panels, most of them are small 5-15 watt ones . the problem comes in when i introduced the 64 w thin film roll able panel. the specifications for the panel are as follows Model PVL-64 Rated Power 64 (Watts) Rated Voltage 16.5 (Vmp) Rated Current 3.9 (Imp) Open Circuit Voltage 23.8 (Voc) Short Circuit Current 4.8 (Isc) i intend  to use 3 LM2596 ebay buck converters to get 12 volts and 2 5V USB Output Converter DC 7V-24V To 5V 3A Step-Down Buck KIS3R33S Module KIS-3R33S for usb power. All of these will have a common source of power (the solar panel) and have separate outputs as i need to charge multiple things at once.  will this setup work or i need to think of something else.?

Question by 1st rover    |  last reply


Laptop powerbank 12v to 20v and upto 5A output using 18650 batteries with USB 5v added

Hello ladies and gentlemen.  Im looking into buying a laptop powerbank charger for my Lenovo X1 carbon that charges at 20v 4.5A 90w fast charge with upto 80% charge in 1hr. But it will also charge at 65w and maybe 45w I've read. But this will not give me the full power of the processors and gpu etc. Unless I charge at 90w 4.53A  there are are some powerbank that are around £100-170 for sale but these don't give full 4.5A. Mainly around 2-3.5A so will maybe or maybe not charge she give me full power of the laptop   so I'm thinking about making me own using 18650 batteries. Good Samsung or LG 2500maH plus cells. Prob around 3000mah.  Im thinking I could either use a buck down or step up and use the batteries on series from 3S to 8S and then 3-4P to give me around 10000mah. I'm looking for the best efficient output so I'm not sure whether to use higher input or lower input to give me 20v.  Or or maybe I could go the inveter route using a 12-24v 150w inverter?? Efficiency is the main thing here. What is the best option do you think. Should I use 12v or 24v for max effecient conversion.  Ive searched the instructables for such devices but cannot seem to find anything like this. Or would I be better to buy one??? I would want to add USB and USB c also. Defo USB 2.0.  Could you you please help me choose and find the answers please?  I fancy the DIY route because I'm looking into solar and battery power storage and also boost my range wifi range through either ptp or directional attenna. These projects will come after the laptop powerbank.  Any my help would be appreciated a lot.  Kind regards.  Scott. 

Topic by ScottL190    |  last reply


36Vd.c. @ 8.3A Power Supply + Buck Converter

Hello Friends, I have a 36Vd.c. @ 8.3A Power Supply that I would like to convert into a Variable Bench Power Supply. After researching the topic, I have decided on choosing a Buck Converter as opposed to a Linear Regulator.  Shopping around online, I stumbled upon the LM2596 Converter: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DROK-LM2596-DC-Buck-Converter-4-0-40V-to-1-25-37V-5-12V-24V-2A-DC-Voltage-Reg-/301381167269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item462bb7a8a5                      Any thoughts and or suggestions? Beyond that, I do have a general question... I've read on a few power supply instructables that it's recommended that all rails be used (for example all yellow/12v cables) to insure a more steady current. Now being that the max output of the above mentioned power supply is 8.3A and (please correct me if I'm wrong) according to the supplied spec sheets, power is coming from 3 rails, would it be safe to assume it not necessary to feed all rails into a buck converter since its output is only 2A? Please put me in my place...

Topic by davidkiyan    |  last reply


dc-dc Buck vs boost efficiency

Hi guys. When you  use solar panels and have gadgets with different voltage requirements  that you want to power up. I need atleast  2 different outputs, 5v and 12v  ,   so which is most efficient ,  12/15v panels that you  regulate to 5v , or  5v panels boosted  to 12v? is there any general advantage in either case and i,m talking about using  cheap ebay switch regulators / boost converters,  not anything expensive hi tech. regards

Topic by kristerh    |  last reply


Deer

Want a trampoline for five bucks? That is real doe.

Topic by Josehf Murchison    |  last reply


Mobile phone wind generator

Hi at school, I am making a mobile phone generator. It's only GCSE so my apologies for my lack of knowledge. It is meant to be a "wind generator" but it can basically be a renewable generator via motion. So since I get to take it home afterwards I designed it to be a little record player where you turned the platter and it would change a phone. This is where I need some help. Would this 24v motor provide enough juice to charge a lithium ion battery (with a boost or buck converter [if needed to step down to an appropriate voltage] then a constant current protection circuit etc) the output 5v to charge your phone? Here is the motor: http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2483716/?grossPr...|pcrid|88056614883|pkw||pmt||prd|2483716&gclid;=CjwKEAiA4dPCBRCM4dqhlv2R1R8SJABom9pHi1B_sRuR-4nr15ce-EWd51aCsEfYqFBsUJioUXEpvRoC1unw_wcB Thanks! For non-British readers :  a GCSE is (in the UK except Scotland) a qualification in a specific subject typically taken by school students aged 14–16, at a level below A level.

Topic by MukymooD    |  last reply


Would anyone like a company for students to make money selling things we like - apparel, accessories, electronics?

Would anyone be interested in a company geared for students to make money selling things we like - apparel, accessories, electronics? I have found tons of companies that say they are for students to earn money while in school but none of them were something I would use. I tried selling phone service, but found that it was a bad product. I have and had friends that sold Cutco, but none of us use kitchen cutlery, so that left us to roaming the neighborhood and selling to parents and adults. I started selling watches to my friends and classmates and was fairly profitable. The isses I came across when selling the watches were finding a decent watch, multiple designs or styles (no one wanted to be wearing the same watch as the next guy) and having enough money to buy inventory and sell the inventory before I can buy other styles. I am interested in finding out if there are any other people interested in a company that is geared for students so we can make money buying and selling things that we like and would use ourselves, like watches.

Question by King Haus    |  last reply


Aquarium LED driver?

Im looking for a schematic that controls 1w leds for my fish tank light? i need the control to be dimmable and hopefully programmable so i can incorporate a sun motion effect and then a moon motion effect! i say hopefully because this will need to be an add on later in the project as id like to have the initial lighting up as quickly as possible! As far as i know so far, the circuit is a basic constant current circuit but  i need a "buck" driver or PWM to enable the dimming by varying the current! so my questions are :- 1. Does anyone know of a simple, reliable and cheap circuit to use? 2. Because of the amount of LED's ill be using im not sure i like the idea of having all the lights in a series configuration because if one fails, thats a lot of lights to test! 3. If i have to use a computer to run the lights id like to be able to make it compatable with the raspberry pi therefore id need a program and mounting software for the pi, so anyone know of one? 4.Right to the power, i dont care what voltage it runs on but id like to only utalize one plug socket if possible, i do have a few power supplies laying about for various things like old laptops and old pc's, so what do i need to power it! i cant think of any more at the moment but you guys know what im trying to achieve so im sure you know what questions i have missed! as i said though, id like to start simple and work up to sun motion control and timers! Thanks in advance for any help anyone is offering! 

Question by Xmortx114145    |  last reply


Supercapacitor Voltage Draw

If I am charging a super capacitor with buck converter, that is a 1 amp, 1-18 volt output, and the capacitor is rated for 2.5 volts, how do I stop the buck converter from feeding it more than 2.5 volts? When I attach the capacitor to my digital power supply, it starts charging, and the voltage slowly increase to be more than 2.5 volts, at which point I turn it off. I was wondering will it draw more than 2.5 volts from my buck converter? If so how do I stop it?

Topic by merlinj    |  last reply


Copy record to CD programs

Question by Steve Buck    |  last reply


I am making a 9 volt battery powered USB charger for my friends phone. I need some help as I am using a buck converter.

I am not sure how I would attach this and what each of the pins on the buck converter does.  I could have made one out of a 5 volt regulator, or this:  http://tinyurl.com/switch-regulator, but I don't have $15 (I have no source of income) to spend on my friends gift and I want it to be highly efficient.  I am waiting for the buck converter to show up in the mail right now.  The datasheet for the buck converter is: http://tinyurl.com/buck-converter.  Also, I found a website that sells the kits for these: http://tinyurl.com/9v-charger for 16 dollars, but once again I don't have any money.  I want to make a charger like the one they have on there out of free samples.  Thanks for the help, Mike P.S.  My friend has an android.

Question by furrysalamander  


BUCK BOOST CONVETER SPECS INPUT 12V-24V AND OUTPUT IS 18V

PLEASE HELPI am building a dc buck boost converter, my feed =back is maintained using a PI-CONTROLLER. The problem is that when am connecting my load which is 13.9ohm(power resistor) its drawing tomuch current and the is a huge voltage drop which is about 11V ,i want to know how to i limit the load from drawing tomuch current

Question by BubeleM  


what can i make when i am bored and make a few bucks? Answered

What dan i make when i am bored an it would not hurt if i could make a few bucks

Question by bobbambusle    |  last reply


Robot

I want to build a robot that will cost a max of 300 bucks. Any ideas?

Topic by sci4me  


The risks of DIY carpet cleaning and how save a buck or two....

I am writing this partly because of bed experiences with rental angents/landlords and as a general help.Here in Australia as well as other parts of the world it is common pratise that a real estate agent goes through your rented home multiple times a year to check if you keep it clean and undamaged.In most cases these visits go without any hickup until you move out.At this point agents often try to make your life a misery.Some expect you get the house back to the state it was 10 years ago when you moved - an impossible task.Carpet cleaning is usually done with a rented machine.This mean you pay a deposit for the machine and "rent" is made by the highly overpriced cleaning fluid you have to use with the machine.But more and more people see that a $100 machine from the discounter is a "money saver".So lets start with the main differences between a rented, commercial grade machine and those you find at the discounter to buy.The later comes quite small and in plastic, the commercial one is usually all metal and has huge water and waste tank.And lets be honest here, if a good vacuum cleaner sets you back more than twice what your new floor cleaning machine costs.....For me the real difference is in the sucktion.If you start with 10 liters in a commercail machine then you should expect to get over 8 liters back in the waste tank.The added waste often makes it seem much more though ;)The cheap discounter vesion however often struggles to get half of the water back out of your carpet that it drained into it!This is not only due to the weaker vacuum created but also due to the general design and lack of sealing the area that is sucked up.But during a hot summer week this makes no vital difference as it dries off anyway, or does it?Dryness and contamination....If you wash your clothes than you let them fully dry before you wear them.With a freshly cleaned carpet we often don't have that luxury and if the weather won't play nice you might end with a moist carpet for weeks.A proper wash of the carpet would require that water is actually flowing through the fabric.This is achieved by designing water outlets and sucktion areas to be in close proximity.However, most carpets these days are thin and flimsy, the underlay brings the comfort and often the required insulation from the cold floor.Fun fact: Most quality carpets in the EU come with a rubber or foam like backing which prevents that little spills go through and also leave the carpet basically dry after a cleaning.If the amount of water your machine collects does not get very close to what you filled into the tank then you end with a quite wet carpet and underlay.Cold from underneath and with basically no airflow through it.And if you ever removed an old carpet that was cleaned every few years you do know why you wear a protective suit, gloves and a filter mask on your face....It is simply impossible with a handheld machine to prevent water and contaminants from getting into the foam underlay of US and AU style carpet assemblies.Once fully dry there is little chance for anything to grow, but every time you clean the carpet you add the water required...I had it in two rentals that when I cleaned the carpets with a really good machine that stains from within the underlay came back up into the carpet.A job planned for a day then turned into three days of using heater fans and living in a sauna while washing carpets :(The same is true if you end up with fresh dirt or such on the carpet while it is still moist underneat - it gets worked ino the carpet and becomes even harder to clean.Is a commercial cleaning the better option?Sadly I have to say this highly depends on your agent/landlord and how much time and money you have.In some areas agents simply ignore the law and demand from you that the carpet looks at least as good as when you moved in.And if old stains you did not know about come from the filthy underlay a rented machine can come close to the cost of getting a commercail team in to do the job once you vacated.Either way you get an invoice for the service and a statement about the condition of the carpets before and after the cleaning.These guys come with a big van and before it fires up with water only the vacuum is used.Imagine a monster sized vacuum cleaner head on steroids that connects to an industrial sized evacuation fan in the van.It literally lifts your carpet from the underlay and leaves nothing loose behind.The actual cleaning and sanitation works the same way only with the big difference that the water is sprayed with pressure through the carpet and into the underlay.Final round is done dry and with vacuum only, means the carpets are dry enough to walk on them without getting wet feet.A complete dry state is usually reached within 2 days during the summer unlike rented machines that keep the humidity in your house up and high for about 2 weeks until back to normal.Main benefit of a commercail cleaning is that you won't get any issues with your agent/landlord unless you damaged the carpets or made them impossible to clean - ever dropped an ink jet printer refill kit? ;)If I do it myself with a reasonably good machine or a rented one : Do I have options for the cleaning solution used?Trust me, I had to figure that one out quickly when I moved into my first rental down here.4 bedrooms, entire house with carpet except for the kitchen and wet areas.They appeared reasonably clean at a first look but when I used a UV flashlight at night the story was shocking....In what must have a room for a baby the carpet looked like a psychedlic art impression under the UV light.The living room was not much better.As a result the rented machine ran out of cleaning fluid quickly.Bought 2 bottles that were supposed to be suffient for the house size but if you need several rounds per room.I "finnished" the former baby room and was one bottle down already.Called it a day and in the dark the UV light showed a slithly fades art impression but nowhere clean :(The shop had a heavy duty cleaning solution but I did not consider it with a price twice as high.Instead I wondered what would make my carpet different from my clothes in my washing machine....So I got a canister of Oxy-cleaner - sometimes called nappy soaking powder, or similar.Just make sure you get one that does not foam up too much.I used a bucket to dissolve a good amount of the powder before filling it into the machine - at about 40°C.What ended in the waste tank when using this cheap alternative looked digusting to say the least!With that encouragement I decided to make a new bucket with some added washing powder, just a tablespoon worth or just over.Washing powder for front loader does not foam up much, unlike the stuff for top loader, so choose wisely.That was, all counted, the forth cleaning round for the former baby room but after this the UV light showed a clean carpet that also had nice spring fresh smell thanks to the washing powder.Using the same appraoch of lots of oxy cleaner and a bit of washing machine powder in semi hot water made cleaning the rest of the house a breeze!When going slow with the machine it was like mowing the lawn, it left a clean path behind.Not all carpets might tolerate oxy cleaners though, especially if they are quite colorful, so do a spot check first if you never used the stuff to clean up a little spill of red wine before.And please keep some of the commercial cleaning fluid at hand to give the machine a quick wash through with it, otherwise the shop might ask you if you used non approved cleaning stuff with it ;)Tips for adjustable cleaning machines....Some of the rented machines come with several possible adjustments you can make.In the most basic form you can adjust the amount water used and how strong the machine sucks.Keep the sucktion as high as possible unless you actually want to pre soak the carpet.The amount of water should be adjusted to the type of carpet not to how dirty it is!You want just enough water to soak the carpet without going into the underlay too much.A clear sign of using too much water is if you waste tank is only half full when the water tank is empty.A few of the really good machines let you adjust the distance between the water outlet and sucktion area.In most cases there pre-set to what, from experience is the most commonly type of carpet in the area.Your might be different though...A greater distance means more time for the cleaning solution to do its job.This works especially well for thicker carpets with amount of water turned down to below 50%.For thin carpets a short distance is better as the water does not have to go deep into the fabric.Here you can even increase the water flow for very dirty areas without risking to soak the underlay too much.In either case you should check the machine before taking it home and if adjustable have the options explained to you in the store.Anything for really bad areas?The entrance area is often subject to whatever our shoes collected outside, especially if you have kids or playful dogs.A bit of oil from the road, some sticky residue of something, dust, small gravel and sand....Vacuum out what comes out first, then use a suitable, not too stiff brush if your vacuum cleaner does not have a rotating brush in the head.Use a spray bottle and prepare a solution of warm water with a bit of washing machine powder and a shot glass worth of methylated spirit.Slightly wet the soiled area with the spray bottle without saturating it.Use the brush to agitate the carpet fibres - preferably directional and with even strokes.If they are not wet in the deeper areas spray a bit more.Again: you don't want to soak it you want to wet it.Give it about 20 minutes on a warm day a bit longer if the insede temps are below 25°C.Check with your hand if the area is still wet, the alcohol should speed up the evaporation here.Before it dries up repeat the process and check with a paper towel if it picks up the stains already.If so then run over the area with cleaning machine.Best results are achieved if you manage to get the fibres wet all the way down with the brush and won't let the area fully dry off again after the spraying.How can I speed up the drying time?The only way to speed things up is heat and airflow.If outside humidty is quite high then you will struggle.Even in the summer times the humidity levels over night can get well into or even over the 80% region.Opening doors and windows then to get the carpet dry won't really help you.Best time to clean your carpets is actually at night because by the time you are done the sun is out and the humity levels much lower.On a good day below 30%.This is true even for the winter times.Put a few fans up and make sure the temperatures are well above the 20°C mark.If in doubt you have to turn the heater on.Once the humidity inside is sky high you open up all windows and doors to have an exchange of air.A few minutes suffice here unless there is wind at all.If it is a hot summer day you can of course just let it all open until the sun goes down again.During colder times pay special attention to cold areas, like your toilet, bathroom or in general areas that won't warm up properly.Even if the room was not cleaned the moisture can accumulate here and cause mold and mildew.If in doubt make sure the ENTIRE house is warm enough until your carpets are fully dry again.A humidity sensor or gauge certainly helps, two are better so you can check inside and outside at the same time.

Topic by Downunder35m  


Arduino code problem... I will paypal a few bucks for some help...

I have the code all written just missimg one simple step...?.. I can explain more please private messages me if you are really good at code oe whatever... this is my first day with this stuff

Question by nail2010    |  last reply


Why do DC-DC buck-converters not start at 0 volts? Answered

I have been looking into DC-DC converters to build a variable power supply but I've haven't been able to find one which starts at 0 volts. Most of them seem to start at 5-10 volts with the lowest I've seen starting at 0.8 volts. Is there any reason for this? Thanks,

Question by Smret45    |  last reply


Please can I have some help with a boost/buck convertor?

HiI want to use one of the cheap boost/buck convertor to increase and decrease variably my 12v power supply. I have now purchase and (bricked) 4 now as each time I remove the board bound pots and solder in ones I can mount on the front panel I must wire them incorrectly even though I mirror the pin set up. I have tried all types of pots single turn and multi-turn always make sure I match the resistance value of the original.Please help, what is this rooky doing wrong?

Question by Rushey    |  last reply


led matrix?

I want to build an led matrix for under 50 bucks that dose not use Arduino. is there any way to do it?

Question by knexinventer    |  last reply


led driver for a 30w led i dont want to pay the 30 bucks for one, i need to know how to use it without the driver?

Do i need the led driver for a 30w led i dont want to pay the 30 bucks for one, i need to know how to use it without the driver? heres the led http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=160418184744

Question by antonbergjr    |  last reply


Astrosyn Stepper Motors

I have 2 Astrosyn Stepper Motors that I bought and ended up not using. I was going to build a small cnc machine first but decided to go bigger with the first on I built. So i bought bigger steppers for my application. I bought them for 20 bucks each and now I am selling them for 20 bucks plus shipping for both. I would like to use paypal for any transactions. Thanks for looking.

Topic by r1dd1ck913    |  last reply



My New Knex Arsonal

I just bought this set off ebay for 50 bucks... do you think it was worth it? post pics of yours too

Topic by iKill    |  last reply


how does a 10 year old make money fast?

How do you make 10 bucks in 10 minutes

Question by zack attack    |  last reply


How do I increase 3A fixed output current of a buck converter?

Basically I am making a solar inverter without any battery or charge controller that will directly convert the dc output coming from solar panels (6 connected in parallel) into 220V AC.I am using solar panels 50W each, having an open circuit voltage of 20V and the voltage varies between 15-20V during the entire day provided a minimum amount of sunlight is there. Next, I am using a 12V buck converter circuit using an LM2576 (here is the datesheet of lm2576)and few more components to get a stable output voltage of 12V out of the panels. Now this 12V DC is fed to an inverter circuit which converts it into a square/modified sine wave 220V AC at approximately 50Hz. But, I am not getting desirable power output. From 6 panels, all I am able to power is a 45W LED bulb along with a small 3W LED bulb. Probably, one problem is with LM2576 buck converter IC. This IC although providing a constant 12V output but it is rated at a 3A fixed output current. And I think probably this is the reason why we are unable to drive more loads. Is there a way to amplify current in this case? Or something else should be done which I am missing here ?

Question by DELETED_MakiY2    |  last reply


winterize a camper/motorhome

We are tired of spending $85 bucks to have someone winterize our camper.  Do you need to blow the lines out with air? how much antifreez and were

Topic by geohsnider    |  last reply


Uni-polor Stepper Motors

OK so now I have some Unipolor stepper motors for sell. 20 bucks plus shipping takes all 3. Thanks for looking.

Topic by r1dd1ck913    |  last reply


is it possible to repair a glow plug?

I use nitro rcs alot and use quite a bit of glow plugs and at five bucks each . i want to know if these are possible to repair or extend life

Question by mclovin7596    |  last reply


SOME KEWL GRAFFITI

WHO EVER HAS THE BEST GRAFFITI WILL GET A FREE GRAFFITI PROGRAM THAT USUALLY COSTS $149 BUCKS JUST COMMENT YOUR PIC OR GRAFF AND BTW I KNOW IF U GOT IT OFF GOOGLE OR YAHOO

Topic by DIRTYSHOTZZ    |  last reply


Pre set voltage regulator/supply

Hi I want to modify the DC to DC buck circuit that is sold anywhere, to have pre-set voltage by pressing only one button it will set at 3, 5,9 and 12 output

Question by nickp238  


I want to build the Swinging Sticks.

I would like to build the swinging sticks (more famously seen in Iron Man 2.)   It is 279 bucks so I need a cheaper solution. Thanks for the help.

Question by blinkyblinky    |  last reply