Best Sealant for Rub n Buff?

I'm wondering what would be the best product to use to clear coat the top of rub n buff. I painted a helmet with it, and I'm worried about it wearing off since it's beginning to around the edges. I love the natural shine that rub n buff has, and want to preserve that luminosity as much as possible. I've also heard that some of the clear spray paints out there react with the rub n buff. Just wondering if anyone has brands or products to recommend, thanks! 

Question by Xarphael   |  last reply


Chmistry buffs: IR invisible ink?

Hey all science-type people, I've seen invisible ink pens and things for sale that contain ink that show up in infrared, instead of ultraviolet light.  That's really appealing to me for a number of project ideas because digital cameras pick up IR exteremely well (especially with their filter removed). The problem is I think I'm going to want a lot of it, and those dumb little pens are crazily expensive. So any of you chemistry buffs out there have a secret formula I could make?  I'd prefer something invisible in regular light, but hey, whatever you've got. :) Thanks in advance for your help, -Kurt

Topic by PS118   |  last reply


Refinishing hood of early 90's BMW?

My buddy has an early 90's BMW...the model number slips my mind. It's jet black, but for reasons unknown, the front hood's clear coat has faded considerably. I was planning to simply mask everything and use some DuPont Clear Acrylic lacquer that I picked up at an Advanced Auto Parts store nearby; then buff it out later with polishing compound. Am I missing anything? It's completely rust-free, no dents etc. Thanks.

Question by guitarman63mm   |  last reply


How to remove scratches from acrylic gems?

Hi there. I bought some acrylic aquarium gems that are multicolored and translucent. These gems have some scratches and blemishes on them that aren't an issue at a distance, but I'm planning on making some jewelry with them, and when examined I want them to be clear and pristine as possible. Do you have any ideas on how I can achieve this without damaging the gems? Thanks in advance!

Question by IrishSnow35   |  last reply


How to polish/buff polycarbonate (lexan) on roughly cut edge? Answered

I'm not talking about minor scratches. I would like to polish 1/2" thick cube that I cut out with table saw, it's not transparent at all on the edges (due to rough cut), but I'd like it to be :)  Can I do it with some kind of Dremel attachment?

Question by bratan   |  last reply


My arms wont/haven't buff up, and eating problems

               So I have been working out since 3rd week of December last year and maintained regular workouts and exercises weekly , I've done dozens of reps of push-ups, Pull-ups, barbell curls and other barbell exercise, some face pull, squats, Pumpings, curl-ups and couple of abdominal Muscle Exercise. I know im a bit too young for a 15 year old, but I've been skinny and thin since grade school, so i've decided to get on the muscular exercises.                                I started it last year's summer but i wasn't able to do it regularly and mostly busy on my studies and some school activities. I noticed my biceps, shoulder muscles, abdominal muscle (it seems the upper muscle is in pretty good shape, the ones below the ribs except the lower ones), my calf muscle, thighs seemed to improved but it seems they just getting harder or something like that but it is not growing bigger and I still look Skinny. I know good body shape take months and years of hard work but it just seems like nothing is happening to me.                 Also, I think i got a problem on my eating habit, I dont always feel full or satisfied, that when I eat Im still hungry but i can't take any more food. And I also noticed I mostly cant swallow my food even if it's grinned in my mouth, that I need to drink any beverages to swallow it, the problem when i drink to swallow my food is that i always feel full because of the water, but even if i eat without drinking much water, I still cant finish my food.               Im still skinny as hell

Topic by hindmarauder   |  last reply


whats the best way to care for scratched chrome on a motorbike? Answered

had my first fall today :( ended up scratching the exhaust...whats the best way to clean it up? im riding a yamaha xvs dragstar any additional information such as best way to keep the bike buffed/polished and generally clean and rust free will be much apreciated thanks

Question by dubpunkdub   |  last reply


what is the best way i can clean my motorbike at a reasonable price?

I have a yamaha xvs dragstar, this is my first bike and it would be very helpfull if someone could tell me the basics for cleaning my bike. the best way to describe my bike is a crome armchair (just to give you an idea of what kinda cleaning i need to be doing) i have a "buffering/polishing towle" i'v read that hosing the bike down to remove excess dirt is a good idea...am i right in thinking so? am i ok using soapy water or should i fork out and get some foam/gunge/spray? any help is much appreciated thanks

Question by dubpunkdub   |  last reply


Ammonia + Aluminum?

I was reading all of the labels on things in my house, mostly spray-able things like spray paint, spray adhesive, spray enamel, etc., etc., to see what's flammable, and on the bottle of ammonia we have it says "Do NOT use to soak aluminum utensils in...." or something like that. What does ammonia + aluminum equal or do? Is it flammable? Thanks all you chemistry-buffs!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply


Protect steel without paint.

I decided to try my hand at making jewelry with a cheap piece of steel. Partly, because of price and partly due to not being able to find a large enough piece of stainless. It turned out great. However I know it will rust if I don't protect it somehow. I'd prefer not to paint it l, because of the work to buff it to a high shine. Any ideas on how to protect it from rusting when in contact with skin?

Question by BernardR23 


Lionel Trains. How to tell what year they were made? Answered

I inherited a Lionel Train set but can't determine when it was made. The Locomotive has 027 on a Metal plate on the bottom and 2026 on the side. I'm trying to determine what they might be worth. Has several cars and a tender for the Locomotive. One car is a Baby Ruth Box Car. Has Tracks but no Transformer to test it out. Any Lionel Train buffs out there that can help?

Question by keydogstony   |  last reply


How to make a servo return to initial possition? Answered

Hi, i am new to arduino and i want to open and close my room's door with a RFID and a servo, the problem is that when i put my card in front the RFID the first time, the servo works great, but in the second time the servo moves more than the first time, and the third time even more, here is my code i've putted the problem in bold letters  : /* * 文 件 名:RFID.pde * 创 建 者:Dr.Leong   ( WWW.B2CQSHOP.COM ) * 创建日期:2011.09.19 * 修 改 者: * 修改日期: * 功能描述:Mifare1 寻卡→防冲突→选卡→读写 接口 */ // the sensor communicates using SPI, so include the library: #include #include #define uchar unsigned char #define uint unsigned int //数组最大长度 #define MAX_LEN 16 ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// //set the pin ///////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// const int pinServo      = 6;                            // servo pin const int angleServo    = 60;                           // Rotation angle const int chipSelectPin = 10; const int NRSTPD = 9; //MF522命令字 #define PCD_IDLE              0x00               //NO action;取消当前命令 #define PCD_AUTHENT           0x0E               //验证密钥 #define PCD_RECEIVE           0x08               //接收数据 #define PCD_TRANSMIT          0x04               //发送数据 #define PCD_TRANSCEIVE        0x0C               //发送并接收数据 #define PCD_RESETPHASE        0x0F               //复位 #define PCD_CALCCRC           0x03               //CRC计算 //Mifare_One卡片命令字 #define PICC_REQIDL           0x26               //寻天线区内未进入休眠状态 #define PICC_REQALL           0x52               //寻天线区内全部卡 #define PICC_ANTICOLL         0x93               //防冲撞 #define PICC_SElECTTAG        0x93               //选卡 #define PICC_AUTHENT1A        0x60               //验证A密钥 #define PICC_AUTHENT1B        0x61               //验证B密钥 #define PICC_READ             0x30               //读块 #define PICC_WRITE            0xA0               //写块 #define PICC_DECREMENT        0xC0               //扣款 #define PICC_INCREMENT        0xC1               //充值 #define PICC_RESTORE          0xC2               //调块数据到缓冲区 #define PICC_TRANSFER         0xB0               //保存缓冲区中数据 #define PICC_HALT             0x50               //休眠 //和MF522通讯时返回的错误代码 #define MI_OK                 0 #define MI_NOTAGERR           1 #define MI_ERR                2 //------------------MFRC522寄存器--------------- //Page 0:Command and Status #define     Reserved00            0x00    #define     CommandReg            0x01    #define     CommIEnReg            0x02    #define     DivlEnReg             0x03    #define     CommIrqReg            0x04    #define     DivIrqReg             0x05 #define     ErrorReg              0x06    #define     Status1Reg            0x07    #define     Status2Reg            0x08    #define     FIFODataReg           0x09 #define     FIFOLevelReg          0x0A #define     WaterLevelReg         0x0B #define     ControlReg            0x0C #define     BitFramingReg         0x0D #define     CollReg               0x0E #define     Reserved01            0x0F //Page 1:Command     #define     Reserved10            0x10 #define     ModeReg               0x11 #define     TxModeReg             0x12 #define     RxModeReg             0x13 #define     TxControlReg          0x14 #define     TxAutoReg             0x15 #define     TxSelReg              0x16 #define     RxSelReg              0x17 #define     RxThresholdReg        0x18 #define     DemodReg              0x19 #define     Reserved11            0x1A #define     Reserved12            0x1B #define     MifareReg             0x1C #define     Reserved13            0x1D #define     Reserved14            0x1E #define     SerialSpeedReg        0x1F //Page 2:CFG    #define     Reserved20            0x20  #define     CRCResultRegM         0x21 #define     CRCResultRegL         0x22 #define     Reserved21            0x23 #define     ModWidthReg           0x24 #define     Reserved22            0x25 #define     RFCfgReg              0x26 #define     GsNReg                0x27 #define     CWGsPReg           0x28 #define     ModGsPReg             0x29 #define     TModeReg              0x2A #define     TPrescalerReg         0x2B #define     TReloadRegH           0x2C #define     TReloadRegL           0x2D #define     TCounterValueRegH     0x2E #define     TCounterValueRegL     0x2F //Page 3:TestRegister     #define     Reserved30            0x30 #define     TestSel1Reg           0x31 #define     TestSel2Reg           0x32 #define     TestPinEnReg          0x33 #define     TestPinValueReg       0x34 #define     TestBusReg            0x35 #define     AutoTestReg           0x36 #define     VersionReg            0x37 #define     AnalogTestReg         0x38 #define     TestDAC1Reg           0x39  #define     TestDAC2Reg           0x3A   #define     TestADCReg            0x3B   #define     Reserved31            0x3C   #define     Reserved32            0x3D   #define     Reserved33            0x3E   #define     Reserved34     0x3F //----------------------------------------------- //4字节卡序列号,第5字节为校验字节 uchar serNum[5]; uchar  writeData[16]={0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 0, 100};  //初始化 100元钱 uchar  moneyConsume = 18 ;  //消费18元 uchar  moneyAdd = 10 ;  //充值10元 //扇区A密码,16个扇区,每个扇区密码6Byte uchar sectorKeyA[16][16] = {{0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF},                              {0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF},                              //{0x19, 0x84, 0x07, 0x15, 0x76, 0x14},                              {0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF},                             }; uchar sectorNewKeyA[16][16] = {{0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF},                                 {0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xff,0x07,0x80,0x69, 0x19,0x84,0x07,0x15,0x76,0x14},                                  //you can set another ket , such as  " 0x19, 0x84, 0x07, 0x15, 0x76, 0x14 "                                  //{0x19, 0x84, 0x07, 0x15, 0x76, 0x14, 0xff,0x07,0x80,0x69, 0x19,0x84,0x07,0x15,0x76,0x14},                                  // but when loop, please set the  sectorKeyA, the same key, so that RFID module can read the card                                 {0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xFF, 0xff,0x07,0x80,0x69, 0x19,0x33,0x07,0x15,0x34,0x14},                                }; void setup() {                   Serial.begin(9600);                       // RFID reader SOUT pin connected to Serial RX pin at 2400bps // start the SPI library:   SPI.begin();     pinMode(chipSelectPin,OUTPUT);             // Set digital pin 10 as OUTPUT to connect it to the RFID /ENABLE pin     digitalWrite(chipSelectPin, LOW);          // Activate the RFID reader   pinMode(NRSTPD,OUTPUT);               // Set digital pin 10 , Not Reset and Power-down     digitalWrite(NRSTPD, HIGH);   MFRC522_Init();  } void loop() {    uchar i,tmp; uchar status;         uchar str[MAX_LEN];         uchar RC_size;         uchar blockAddr; //选择操作的块地址0~63         String mynum = "";   //寻卡,返回卡类型   status = MFRC522_Request(PICC_REQIDL, str);   if (status == MI_OK)   {                         //Serial.println("Card detected");    //Serial.print(str[0],BIN);                         //Serial.print(" , ");    //Serial.print(str[1],BIN);                         //Serial.println(" ");   }   //防冲撞,返回卡的序列号 4字节   status = MFRC522_Anticoll(str);   memcpy(serNum, str, 5);   if (status == MI_OK)   {                         //Serial.println("The card's number is  : ");    Serial.print(serNum[0]);                         //Serial.print(" , ");    //Serial.print(serNum[1],BIN);                         //Serial.print(" , ");    //Serial.print(serNum[2],BIN);                         //Serial.print(" , ");    //Serial.print(serNum[3],BIN);                         //Serial.print(" , ");    //Serial.print(serNum[4],BIN);                         Serial.println("");                                                 // Should really check all pairs, but for now we'll just use the first                                                                      if(serNum[0] == 193) {                           Serial.println("Hello Gaston");                           digitalWrite(5, HIGH);                           digitalWrite(5, LOW);                           Servo myservo;                           int pos = 90;                           for(pos = 0; pos < 90; pos += 1)                           myservo.attach(6);                           myservo.write(pos);              // tell servo to go to position in variable 'pos'                           delay(5000);                            for(pos = 10; pos>=1; pos-=1)                           myservo.write(pos);                         } else      {                                         Serial.println("Incorrect");                           digitalWrite(6, HIGH);                           delay(5000);                           digitalWrite(6, LOW);                         }                         //delay(5000);   }                 //Serial.println(" ");   MFRC522_Halt();   //命令卡片进入休眠状态                        } /* * 函 数 名:Write_MFRC5200 * 功能描述:向MFRC522的某一寄存器写一个字节数据 * 输入参数:addr--寄存器地址;val--要写入的值 * 返 回 值:无 */ void Write_MFRC522(uchar addr, uchar val) { digitalWrite(chipSelectPin, LOW); //地址格式:0XXXXXX0 SPI.transfer((addr<<1)&0x7E); SPI.transfer(val); digitalWrite(chipSelectPin, HIGH); } /* * 函 数 名:Read_MFRC522 * 功能描述:从MFRC522的某一寄存器读一个字节数据 * 输入参数:addr--寄存器地址 * 返 回 值:返回读取到的一个字节数据 */ uchar Read_MFRC522(uchar addr) { uchar val; digitalWrite(chipSelectPin, LOW); //地址格式:1XXXXXX0 SPI.transfer(((addr<<1)&0x7E) | 0x80); val =SPI.transfer(0x00); digitalWrite(chipSelectPin, HIGH); return val; } /* * 函 数 名:SetBitMask * 功能描述:置RC522寄存器位 * 输入参数:reg--寄存器地址;mask--置位值 * 返 回 值:无 */ void SetBitMask(uchar reg, uchar mask)  {     uchar tmp;     tmp = Read_MFRC522(reg);     Write_MFRC522(reg, tmp | mask);  // set bit mask } /* * 函 数 名:ClearBitMask * 功能描述:清RC522寄存器位 * 输入参数:reg--寄存器地址;mask--清位值 * 返 回 值:无 */ void ClearBitMask(uchar reg, uchar mask)  {     uchar tmp;     tmp = Read_MFRC522(reg);     Write_MFRC522(reg, tmp & (~mask));  // clear bit mask } /* * 函 数 名:AntennaOn * 功能描述:开启天线,每次启动或关闭天险发射之间应至少有1ms的间隔 * 输入参数:无 * 返 回 值:无 */ void AntennaOn(void) { uchar temp; temp = Read_MFRC522(TxControlReg); if (!(temp & 0x03)) {   SetBitMask(TxControlReg, 0x03); } } /* * 函 数 名:AntennaOff * 功能描述:关闭天线,每次启动或关闭天险发射之间应至少有1ms的间隔 * 输入参数:无 * 返 回 值:无 */ void AntennaOff(void) { ClearBitMask(TxControlReg, 0x03); } /* * 函 数 名:ResetMFRC522 * 功能描述:复位RC522 * 输入参数:无 * 返 回 值:无 */ void MFRC522_Reset(void) {     Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, PCD_RESETPHASE); } /* * 函 数 名:InitMFRC522 * 功能描述:初始化RC522 * 输入参数:无 * 返 回 值:无 */ void MFRC522_Init(void) { digitalWrite(NRSTPD,HIGH); MFRC522_Reset();    //Timer: TPrescaler*TreloadVal/6.78MHz = 24ms     Write_MFRC522(TModeReg, 0x8D);  //Tauto=1; f(Timer) = 6.78MHz/TPreScaler     Write_MFRC522(TPrescalerReg, 0x3E); //TModeReg[3..0] + TPrescalerReg     Write_MFRC522(TReloadRegL, 30);               Write_MFRC522(TReloadRegH, 0); Write_MFRC522(TxAutoReg, 0x40);  //100%ASK Write_MFRC522(ModeReg, 0x3D);  //CRC初始值0x6363 ??? //ClearBitMask(Status2Reg, 0x08);  //MFCrypto1On=0 //Write_MFRC522(RxSelReg, 0x86);  //RxWait = RxSelReg[5..0] //Write_MFRC522(RFCfgReg, 0x7F);     //RxGain = 48dB AntennaOn();  //打开天线 } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Request * 功能描述:寻卡,读取卡类型号 * 输入参数:reqMode--寻卡方式, *    TagType--返回卡片类型 *     0x4400 = Mifare_UltraLight *    0x0400 = Mifare_One(S50) *    0x0200 = Mifare_One(S70) *    0x0800 = Mifare_Pro(X) *    0x4403 = Mifare_DESFire * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_Request(uchar reqMode, uchar *TagType) { uchar status;  uint backBits;   //接收到的数据位数 Write_MFRC522(BitFramingReg, 0x07);  //TxLastBists = BitFramingReg[2..0] ??? TagType[0] = reqMode; status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, TagType, 1, TagType, &backBits;); if ((status != MI_OK) || (backBits != 0x10)) {      status = MI_ERR; }    return status; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_ToCard * 功能描述:RC522和ISO14443卡通讯 * 输入参数:command--MF522命令字, *    sendData--通过RC522发送到卡片的数据, *    sendLen--发送的数据长度   *    backData--接收到的卡片返回数据, *    backLen--返回数据的位长度 * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_ToCard(uchar command, uchar *sendData, uchar sendLen, uchar *backData, uint *backLen) {     uchar status = MI_ERR;     uchar irqEn = 0x00;     uchar waitIRq = 0x00;     uchar lastBits;     uchar n;     uint i;     switch (command)     {         case PCD_AUTHENT:  //认证卡密   {    irqEn = 0x12;    waitIRq = 0x10;    break;   }   case PCD_TRANSCEIVE: //发送FIFO中数据   {    irqEn = 0x77;    waitIRq = 0x30;    break;   }   default:    break;     }        Write_MFRC522(CommIEnReg, irqEn|0x80); //允许中断请求     ClearBitMask(CommIrqReg, 0x80);   //清除所有中断请求位     SetBitMask(FIFOLevelReg, 0x80);   //FlushBuffer=1, FIFO初始化     Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, PCD_IDLE); //NO action;取消当前命令 ??? //向FIFO中写入数据     for (i=0; i     {     Write_MFRC522(FIFODataReg, sendData[i]);    } //执行命令 Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, command);     if (command == PCD_TRANSCEIVE)     {      SetBitMask(BitFramingReg, 0x80);  //StartSend=1,transmission of data starts  }       //等待接收数据完成 i = 2000; //i根据时钟频率调整,操作M1卡最大等待时间25ms ???     do     {   //CommIrqReg[7..0]   //Set1 TxIRq RxIRq IdleIRq HiAlerIRq LoAlertIRq ErrIRq TimerIRq         n = Read_MFRC522(CommIrqReg);         i--;     }     while ((i!=0) && !(n&0x01) && !(n&waitIRq;));     ClearBitMask(BitFramingReg, 0x80);   //StartSend=0     if (i != 0)     {            if(!(Read_MFRC522(ErrorReg) & 0x1B)) //BufferOvfl Collerr CRCErr ProtecolErr         {             status = MI_OK;             if (n & irqEn & 0x01)             {       status = MI_NOTAGERR;   //??      }             if (command == PCD_TRANSCEIVE)             {                 n = Read_MFRC522(FIFOLevelReg);                lastBits = Read_MFRC522(ControlReg) & 0x07;                 if (lastBits)                 {        *backLen = (n-1)*8 + lastBits;       }                 else                 {        *backLen = n*8;       }                 if (n == 0)                 {        n = 1;        }                 if (n > MAX_LEN)                 {        n = MAX_LEN;       }         //读取FIFO中接收到的数据                 for (i=0; i                 {        backData[i] = Read_MFRC522(FIFODataReg);        }             }         }         else         {      status = MI_ERR;    }             }     //SetBitMask(ControlReg,0x80);           //timer stops     //Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, PCD_IDLE);     return status; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Anticoll * 功能描述:防冲突检测,读取选中卡片的卡序列号 * 输入参数:serNum--返回4字节卡序列号,第5字节为校验字节 * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_Anticoll(uchar *serNum) {     uchar status;     uchar i; uchar serNumCheck=0;     uint unLen;         //ClearBitMask(Status2Reg, 0x08);  //TempSensclear     //ClearBitMask(CollReg,0x80);   //ValuesAfterColl Write_MFRC522(BitFramingReg, 0x00);  //TxLastBists = BitFramingReg[2..0]     serNum[0] = PICC_ANTICOLL;     serNum[1] = 0x20;     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, serNum, 2, serNum, &unLen;);     if (status == MI_OK) {   //校验卡序列号   for (i=0; i<4; i++)   {       serNumCheck ^= serNum[i];   }   if (serNumCheck != serNum[i])   {      status = MI_ERR;      }     }     //SetBitMask(CollReg, 0x80);  //ValuesAfterColl=1     return status; } /* * 函 数 名:CalulateCRC * 功能描述:用MF522计算CRC * 输入参数:pIndata--要读数CRC的数据,len--数据长度,pOutData--计算的CRC结果 * 返 回 值:无 */ void CalulateCRC(uchar *pIndata, uchar len, uchar *pOutData) {     uchar i, n;     ClearBitMask(DivIrqReg, 0x04);   //CRCIrq = 0     SetBitMask(FIFOLevelReg, 0x80);   //清FIFO指针     //Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, PCD_IDLE); //向FIFO中写入数据     for (i=0; i     {     Write_MFRC522(FIFODataReg, *(pIndata+i));   }     Write_MFRC522(CommandReg, PCD_CALCCRC); //等待CRC计算完成     i = 0xFF;     do     {         n = Read_MFRC522(DivIrqReg);         i--;     }     while ((i!=0) && !(n&0x04));   //CRCIrq = 1 //读取CRC计算结果     pOutData[0] = Read_MFRC522(CRCResultRegL);     pOutData[1] = Read_MFRC522(CRCResultRegM); } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_SelectTag * 功能描述:选卡,读取卡存储器容量 * 输入参数:serNum--传入卡序列号 * 返 回 值:成功返回卡容量 */ uchar MFRC522_SelectTag(uchar *serNum) {     uchar i; uchar status; uchar size;     uint recvBits;     uchar buffer[9]; //ClearBitMask(Status2Reg, 0x08);   //MFCrypto1On=0     buffer[0] = PICC_SElECTTAG;     buffer[1] = 0x70;     for (i=0; i<5; i++)     {      buffer[i+2] = *(serNum+i);     } CalulateCRC(buffer, 7, &buffer;[7]);  //??     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, buffer, 9, buffer, &recvBits;);         if ((status == MI_OK) && (recvBits == 0x18))     {     size = buffer[0]; }     else     {     size = 0;    }     return size; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Auth * 功能描述:验证卡片密码 * 输入参数:authMode--密码验证模式                  0x60 = 验证A密钥                  0x61 = 验证B密钥              BlockAddr--块地址              Sectorkey--扇区密码              serNum--卡片序列号,4字节 * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_Auth(uchar authMode, uchar BlockAddr, uchar *Sectorkey, uchar *serNum) {     uchar status;     uint recvBits;     uchar i; uchar buff[12]; //验证指令+块地址+扇区密码+卡序列号     buff[0] = authMode;     buff[1] = BlockAddr;     for (i=0; i<6; i++)     {      buff[i+2] = *(Sectorkey+i);   }     for (i=0; i<4; i++)     {      buff[i+8] = *(serNum+i);   }     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_AUTHENT, buff, 12, buff, &recvBits;);     if ((status != MI_OK) || (!(Read_MFRC522(Status2Reg) & 0x08)))     {     status = MI_ERR;   }         return status; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Read * 功能描述:读块数据 * 输入参数:blockAddr--块地址;recvData--读出的块数据 * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_Read(uchar blockAddr, uchar *recvData) {     uchar status;     uint unLen;     recvData[0] = PICC_READ;     recvData[1] = blockAddr;     CalulateCRC(recvData,2, &recvData;[2]);     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, recvData, 4, recvData, &unLen;);     if ((status != MI_OK) || (unLen != 0x90))     {         status = MI_ERR;     }         return status; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Write * 功能描述:写块数据 * 输入参数:blockAddr--块地址;writeData--向块写16字节数据 * 返 回 值:成功返回MI_OK */ uchar MFRC522_Write(uchar blockAddr, uchar *writeData) {     uchar status;     uint recvBits;     uchar i; uchar buff[18];         buff[0] = PICC_WRITE;     buff[1] = blockAddr;     CalulateCRC(buff, 2, &buff;[2]);     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, buff, 4, buff, &recvBits;);     if ((status != MI_OK) || (recvBits != 4) || ((buff[0] & 0x0F) != 0x0A))     {     status = MI_ERR;   }             if (status == MI_OK)     {         for (i=0; i<16; i++)  //向FIFO写16Byte数据         {             buff[i] = *(writeData+i);           }         CalulateCRC(buff, 16, &buff;[16]);         status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, buff, 18, buff, &recvBits;);           if ((status != MI_OK) || (recvBits != 4) || ((buff[0] & 0x0F) != 0x0A))         {      status = MI_ERR;     }     }         return status; } /* * 函 数 名:MFRC522_Halt * 功能描述:命令卡片进入休眠状态 * 输入参数:无 * 返 回 值:无 */ void MFRC522_Halt(void) { uchar status;     uint unLen;     uchar buff[4];     buff[0] = PICC_HALT;     buff[1] = 0;     CalulateCRC(buff, 2, &buff;[2]);     status = MFRC522_ToCard(PCD_TRANSCEIVE, buff, 4, buff,&unLen;); }

Question by gastonbr100   |  last reply


Dofus SAC Equipment

Are you str or agility sac? If you're using gob, I'd guess str. Treeset or Crackler set are both good sets for sacrier. Treechnid set cause of 8AP which will give you more room to sac/dancing sword/punishment/leek pies, increasing your buffs. Tree set total bonuses are 63~150 Strength 9~12 Damage 20% Fire Weakness 20% Air Weakness 20% Resist earth 21~24% Resist neutral 2 AP ~1 MP 72~135 Life 1 Range 1 Summons The -1MP doesn't matter so much because of attraction. You can get this at level 45. Crackler set is good cause of the reduction, means you'll take no damage from your buffs. It also give vitality instead of life, which is always a bonus for a sac. Crackler set total bonuses are 55~130 Strength 6~60 Vitality 2~25 Wisdom 1~20 Agility 1~10% Damage 1~5 Critical Hit 1%~5% Resist air 2%~10% Resist earth 1%~5% Resist fire 15% Resist neutral 8~20 Magical reduction 9~25 Physical reduction 1~100 Initiative 1~10 Prospecting 1~300 Pods If you have no enough dofus kamas to do these, please visit http://www.dufus.us

Topic by antmilan   |  last reply


what's the best way to keep hungry varmints away from my chickens?

We have a new flock of Buff-Orpingtons that we got as chicks last fall- they're roosting in the greenhouse and range in an enclosure during the day that is surrounded by an electric fence. I'm concerned that as the weather warms and the resident coyote, skunk, fox, coon and possum population gets active we are exposing the gals to a potential chicken holocaust. Will the electric fence be enough? I've come to respect the ingenuity and perseverance of varmints. Input please!

Question by sbparadis   |  last reply


Solar charger in altoids tin for 9v??

Well, if you have seen the altoids solar battery charger, and the altoids 9v usb charger, then you must have thought, "why not put em together???". Now, Im not electronics buff, but I'd be willing to bet that since the 9v charger instructable is so small, that it could be incorperated with the solar panel kit. Now, my question is, would i have to do anything ridiculous to convert the solar charger (which is ment to charge 2 AA batterys) into a 9v usb charger w/solar panel while still being inside an altoids tin. PS: I still don't know why I have this wierd fascination with altoids tin DIYs, but I do...

Topic by altoidsrox 


Custom made titanium ring

Hi, Im looking for advice on making a titanium ring for my girlfriend. I choose titanium because shes allergic to stainless steel.  I was thinking of buying a small 3x3 plate or so so I have room to make a few if I screw up. depending on thickness..? Idk what thickness to choose. Then I would need to drill out the inside, and figure out how to size it to her finger by her size.  Then I would have to just shape it somehow. sandpaper? idk. I doubt that but I dont have a lathe available..  so thats why Im here looking for advice, and then after shaping I need to use different compounds to buff and polish it right? 

Topic by 'earl   |  last reply


"Open source" marketing research, anyone?

                                  Calling any and all market research buffs!   "I need help finding my target market, but I can't afford to pay the giants in the business who have many many years of experience and probably have an agenda."   I'm sure that has been said, and heard, many times, and now its my turn. I had a thought recently about how I could find a market for a product I'm working on. Since I intend to release it openly, I want most of the side stuff the project spits out along the way to be open as well.   My idea centers around a collaborative and "smart" marketing research system. Of course there would be problems inherent to the system (trolls and SPAM, for instance) that could be remedied in a similar fashion to Wikipedia or Kickstarter. Now that I've put this idea out there, who wants to make it happen?

Topic by The Ideanator   |  last reply


Kitewife, she says YES!

Many years ago, my father rallied a Mini.Twenty-three years ago, I learned to drive in a Mini.Twenty-two years ago, I had my first crash in a Mini.I courted Kitewife in a Mini.Now, after literally years of subtle hints, requests and outright begging, Kitewife has agreed that I can have another Mini. A proper one, not a BMW.OK, this isn't going to be instant, probably months away, but I am uber-excited about it, so I thought I'd come a and brag about it.All I've got to do first is fix up the Megane to a saleable state - replace the spoiler, the wing mirror, buff out the scratches, pull out the dent in the door, then sell it, then raise about a grand extra ...... ah, what the heck, she said yes!

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


Arduino: How do I convert a decimal to ASCII? Answered

I'm following this Instructable which is about communicating between 2 Arduinos with RF modules. The received value is stored in buff[0]  and if this value is "1", a light switches on. However, I was going to experiment with sending values other that 1 or 0 from the other Arduino and first added Serial.println(but[0]) but in the serial monitor, it read 49, which if you treat as a decimal value and convert ASCII, you get "1". Equally, when "0" was sent from the sending Arduino, the monitor read 48, which is decimal of the ASCII value "1". I'm a bit confused as the if-statement below works fine. Basically, I want "1" and "0" to be printed to the serial monitor not 48 and 49. How do I do this? Thanks, theRedBryophyte Serial.println(buf[0]); if(buf[0]=='1'){   //some code here... }

Question by theredbryophyte   |  last reply


RGB TV Output of Gameboy Color?

 I'm absolutely stumped by this. I have my gf playing my old gameboy color but the screen cover is pretty scratched up and I don't feel like peeling it off until I find something to buff the scratches out. I've nearly googled it to death and all I come up with is random websites selling gameboy advanced tv out adapters. I know this HAS to be possible as www.hackaday.com/2008/11/29/gameboy-color-on-an-led-matrix/ The guy says in his comments on the youtube page that he does IN fact have a real live gameboy color hooked up to the LED matrix. Yet he does not explain how he hooked it up, obviously he did it somehow. Does ANYONE have any bloody clue as to how this is done? I'm not afraid to do some soldering as I know that'll probably be required but really how hard can it be.

Topic by Punkguyta   |  last reply


Built from scratch computer desk help (woodworking)

Hey world, i was wondering if any carpentry buffs out there could give me a hand, i have a very simple project: a desk using only 4 pieces of straight board, one for the top surface, 2 for the sides/legs, and one for support. (if you're having trouble visualizing it, look at the pic below). what i need help with is what kind of wood to use, i was thinking some hard wood, but i dont know what would be most cost effective (not goin for beauty here, it'll all be painted in the end) I plan to make a bunch of cut outs in the surface so i can incorperate things like an ipod dock, slots for papers and holes for wires to be hidden. I dont know if that would help determine what kind of wood to use, but i assume every bit of info i can provide would help :) thanks in advance! ADRENIHOLIC

Topic by Adrenaholic   |  last reply


ISEE-3 Is Alive!

As reported in Science Magazine online today: A group of citizen scientists has commandeered a NASA spacecraft that was launched in 1978 and had gone unused since 1997. Today the group made first contact with the International Sun-Earth Explorer-3 (ISEE-3) when the spacecraft acknowledged receiving a signal from the Arecibo radio telescope in Puerto Rico, says Keith Cowing, co-director of the ISEE-3 Reboot Project, a group of about 20 volunteer space buffs. “We knew we could do this—it’s a vindication,” he says. “It’s sort of like reaching back in time to grab something that otherwise would have been lost.” Making contact isn't all the group plans to do. Next month, they plan to instigate a burn with the remaining fuel and move the spacecraft into a new orbit. The group is doing this with no direct funding from NASA:  they raised nearly $160k needed for for software development, access to NASA archives, and Arecibo and other telescope time via the RocketHub crowdfunding site.

Topic by kelseymh   |  last reply


DIY Plexiglass Window

Hey guys, time for another update of what I've been up to lately in my spare time. The other day I just finished a project, where I decided to take some scrap plexiglass and install it as a window in the top of my subwoofer, just like how more expensive pre-built subwoofer boxes have them. I tried to take pictures as I went along with it. Trust me, I may only have a handful of picture, but it took A LOT. Most of the hard work was chiseling the MDF board to fit a groove for the plexiglass to sit in and make a seal. P.S.: Chiseling MDF board is like chiseling cardboard, very easy to take too much out! Also, does anyone have any ideas as to HOW I could get some of the deeper scratches out of the plexiglass??? I'll be taking it apart to re-bevel the edge of the seal once I find the damn wood router, so when I do that I'd like to buff the plexiglass out a bit. Also, I think I own bragging rights for doing this.

Topic by Punkguyta   |  last reply


Any thoughts on constructing a lamp to project a spherical starfield?

So, I have a friend's birthday coming up, and she's a creative dreamer type.  I stumbled upon an unattributed image of a lamp that projects a starfield, and immediately thought, "absolutely perfect!  but, can I make it?" so, after a bit of thought,  I came up with most of a plan... the base unit would have two dimmer switches on it: one for the lamp, the other for a small motor. a stand would exit the base at about 15-20 degrees from vertical, and support the motor. a small brush and ring system, or commercial electrical routing system would pass electricity to the lamp, which would be surrounded by a spherical (or n sided polygonal) lampshade that is translucent, passing very little light, except where it is drilled to create stars My primary question is, has anyone seen something similar commercially?  aimed more at the design crowd than at kids or science buffs? My secondary question is, what would be a good way to produce the star-screens, so as to not hand drill 2000 holes or so.

Topic by gschoppe   |  last reply


Headlight Restoration on the cheap.

How to restore your dull plastic headlamps to like new, for about $4.00 (if your lamps are dirty on the inside, that is a whole other instructable): Step 1 - Wash the headlamps with common dish soap and allow to dry thoroughly, this will remove the dirt and oils from the lamp. Step 2 - Using regular rubbing compound or silver polish (I used Silvo brand silver polish (about $4.00 a can here in Canada), it may work with copper polish as well) Apply a small amount of compound or polish using a soft cotton cloth (an old t-shirt or sheet cut into manageable size) gently rub the lamp in a circular motion (the amount of pressure is determined by the severity of the dullness, you may need to repeat the procedure more than once) allow the polish or rubbing compound to dry to a haze, usually by the time your done both lamps the first one will be ready to perform the next step. Step 3 - Using a clean dry cotton cloth buff the lens to remove all of the haze, if the lamp still looks dull repeat step 2. Step 4 - Once you are satisfied that the lenses are as polished as they will get, wax both lamps with a high quality auto wax, (a wax containing carnuba is the best) Mother's or Maguires works great. The wax will prevent bugs, dust and dirt from sticking to the lamp and it will retain it's clarity for a long time, if the lamp starts to look dull simply apply a new coat of wax. Step 5 - Stand back and admire your newly restored headlamps - you will be amazed at how much further you can see at night. *The attached photo is of my headlamp on my 1998 Suzuki Esteem - The before picture is from another 1998 Suzuki Esteem, my lamps were almost as bad as the one pictured here.

Topic by DELETED_Silent Ninja Bunny   |  last reply


1st time robot. Too ambitious?

Hello All, I have recently started an ambitious project. There will certainly be much learning along the way.  But it is too ambitious? The goal is to build a bot that can be controlled remotely, to aid in the detection, marking, and ultimate removal of unexploded ordinance in Cambodia (in this first application).  Though I have never built a robot of any type, I am quickly learning the basics, but would like ultimate beginner advice if anyone had any.  If anyone would like details on the project, PM me.  It's really a lot for a forum post... If there are any Veterans or military buffs out there, I could really use other first hand accounts of experiencing UEO. Through generous donation and aquisition, I have come cross an electric wheelchair, and many parts needed for a former "Battle-Bot".  Battle-bot turns peace-maker.  I love it!  The motors are Bosche, 24V and ~750watts.  Included were DC motor (high amp) speed controls, and 2x 12v 26A sealed lead-acid batteries.  Very very excited to really dig in.  I lack a quality track or model of a good track to use for traction, etc.  Anyone know of any good and sturdy RC tank tracks I could look at for design or actual construction? Though I began to construct my own track out of sheet metal and various materials available (it actually turned out kinda ok), I don't intend on reinventing the wheel, as it were.  3" took me almost 2 hours. Will also be incorporating a ~3'-4' rotating and articulating arm.  Trying to keep its weight to under ~30lbs.  The wheelchair frame is very strong and moddable, Ws thinking of using a lazy susan type bearing, but I'm not sure I could find one rated for that weight for an affordable price.  Any suggestions? Thanks for checking this out.  Again, if you want more details, I'm happy to share my plans.  Just PM me. This is being designed 100% open-source, and 100% documented with a video and written journal in order to be easily duplicated.   Constructive criticism is NOT personal criticism! Huck

Topic by huck alexander   |  last reply


Help coming up with how to make robotics project (RFID/iButtons/sensors/chess/microcontrollers)? Answered

Hi all! :3 For my 2-year high-school robotics project (last two years of High School) we were allowed the freedom to choose whatever project we felt like working on, as long as it got approved by the teacher. Me, being a huge fan of chess, decided to make a chess-related project. Unfortunately, I dashed into it without giving it much thought. So I'm here asking you guys if you can think up of a way for me to achieve this. Afterwards I'd like to take it a step further and have it not be related to chess at all, and make my own board game with my own rules, but that's afterwards. Alright, I'm really bad at explaining things (English = not my native language), but here goes. I'd like to make an interactive chess board. The chess board would be grid-based, obviously, with possibly LEDs inside each square. I'd also have my 16 (or well, 32) chess pieces that would all be custom made. (I have access to any materials I need, so don't worry; I have a big budget, 3d printers, plenty of microcomputers and microcontrollers, you know. All I need to know is what to get X'D) Now let's say I place/take off a piece on the board. I'd want the grid to light up the corresponding squares/blocks. E.G: I pick up a pawn, and the square right in front of it lights up. So You understand what I mean? If possible there could be some button on the chess piece. Heck, it doesn't have to be a chess piece, as the shape would make it weird. I can just have blocks with a button on top and a little sticker indicating what piece it is. Anything like that works. I'm guessing the board would have some kind of microcontroller/microcomputer integrated into it that would process the logic for the lights/movements. The part that really gets me most is how it will know what chess piece it is and how I would go about implementing the code and such. If you had to make this, and had 2 years time, how would you make it? What kind of materials would you use? I've been doing a bit of research on this, and through my research it seems like using Arduino or something of the like along with iButtons or some sort of RFID/NFC would be ideal. I don't want to do anything optical, like utilizing cameras, etc. I'd like each piece to store memory and information related to it and for it to be able to be read and written by the board (well, the microcontroller/microcomputer). Again, I don't have that much expertise with anything related to radio frequencies, or a lot of the part of the hardware-side of the project, I'm more of a software-buff. But I really want to learn which is why I'm doing this! I have a bit over a year's experience in C++ and Java, since that's most likely going to be required. Anything helps! Thank you so much for your help! :')

Question by h4n4t0   |  last reply


How can I polish and rust-protect a steel file cabinet? Answered

I asked a question on how to sand a steel file cabinet down to a mirror finish a couple of weeks ago and got a lot of great answers. I tried some of the suggestions. What worked best was an orbit sander, starting at 60 and going up to 400. At 400, I could see a pretty good reflection of myself with no scratches.I could have made it perfect if I had kept doing that all over the whole file cabinet.Unfortunately, it would have taken forever to get all the scratches out because while I was learning how to sand it and trying out different tools, different sanding techniques, I made too many scratches. For example I used a belt sander on one entire side, thinking that would be faster. It was faster, but it left deep cuts all over. I had started by sanding off some of the paint with those metal brushes that you attach to a drill. Then when I tried to sand that section with the orbit sander, I couldn't get all the scratches out. Even using really coarse hand sandpaper didn't get the scratches out.So instead of giving it a mirror finish, I decided to go over the whole thing with the metal brushes attached to a drill. See what it turned out like below. I am going to leave it like that.So now I need to know how to finish it. I had been following these instructions but they are not working. The rubbing compound does not disappear when you rub it. It is just smearing brown stuff all over the file cabinet. I do not know what the purpose of this is. It's not appearing to polish anything. It just makes a mess. So after rubbing it with cloths didn't get rid of it, I tried to wash it off. But that was an even worse mistake because now there are small rust spots all over even though I dried it with a dry cloth after washing the file cabinet. Also, washing it made it look dirtier. There are water streaks all over it now. I went to Home Depot but I don't know what to buy. I don't want to ask any of the floor staff because they could just say anything and it might make things worse. A guy at Parts Source told me I should use Metal Polish. He actually told me to go to a jeweller and get jewel polish, but then he suggested this Blue Magic Metal Polish Cream. I don't know if he's right or wrong.So my questions are: How can I remove the brown rubbing compound? Washing didn't get all of it. Am I supposed to buff it off? Apparently you can't use water at this stage. How am I supposed to clean off the mess I made when I was only trying to polish it and make it perfectly clean and shiny before coating it?Assuming I can get it cleaned off and make all the rust spots disappear, what am I supposed to coat it with? How many coats?Is there something you're supposed to do after you coat it? Such as do you polish it then? With what?

Question by noahbody_   |  last reply


Can you make this game?

I am working on a game last 7 years. I need coders for making this game. I will just give you game idea, you will do the job and you will gain the money. I am played all of games and watching game videos everyday. So game designing is my job, you just read my idea. This game will be a turn based strategy, MMO, open world, crafting, starving, pvp, pve, dungeon blah blah game. I cant make this game as a board game bcause it is too complex and requires calculations. So it cant be funny as a board game bcause causes headache. This game has an unique combat system and strange classes and races like turtle, rhino, ninja, runner, mantis...... So you can play as everything. Some characters can fly, swim, run; depends on what you are playing as. Every turn everybody moves at same time. After that everybody attacks to each other at same time. And cycle repeats. You can order to your character "be that much near to target" and it always tries to be that much near to enemy. Server does this calculation automaticly. Lets see what i designed: CYBER Cyber is a robot looks like human but its made all of steel. So its metalic gray colored. Its dark. It is a serial killer. Hates everything, even itself. He is male but he have no gender. His strongest attack is COMET CANNON. Causes a explosion which will kill the target and damage the who arounds it. Cyber can kill its friends while shooting stuff. ZERO POINT is stronger than Comet Cannon and if you shoot it you will lose all of your HP so this spell consumes HP; its deals same damage to everyone in explosion and this spell always deals damage but enemies will divide damage with their FLE so enemies with high FLE will take less damage. After Zero Point; damaged tiles will damage to who stay on them with heat. GATLING GUN spell deals damage with bullets. Damage will be increased every turn but its MP cost will also increase. You cant move while shooting with Gatling Gun. Also nothing will miss you while you using this spell but %100 of your FLE will become DMG. And your movespeed will become your HIT but only half of it. Also while using this noisy spells your hiding will decrease so enemies can see you from even more faraway. Cyber uses bullets and rockets while using its spells and it gets out of ammo. Ammo will refill 10 turns after an empty turn(nothing attacks you and you attack to nothing). Gatling Gun deals area damage so you can shoot many targets at same time. PAILDRAMON GUNS: If you still didnt mention all of Cyber spells are stolen from digimon and gunslinger of Ragnarök online so this skill is same. So he takes rifles from inside of his calfs and shoot the enemy. You cant use this spell if you moved this turn so you cant move. You can shoot the target until miss it so this spell can be used again after you used it if it hits target. It has more hit than Gatling Gun and it can only shoot 1 target. TWIN STINGERS: you shoot 2 stingers from your nipples. Its a divided attack but stingers must be locked to same target. If they miss target, next turn they will try to hit it again. Enemy can attack to stingers for destroying them but stingers have 0 HP and %500 of your FLE also you must destroy stingers 1 by 1. ROCKET RAIN: using this spell causes you to use all of your ammo. You release all of your firepower as mini stingers. They will randomly attack every enemy they can reach. Missed stingers will hit each other and get destroyed. This attack have high HIT but low DMG. ROCKET STRIKE: you shoot a giant rocket from your arm. Its most basic attack of cyber but it costs too much MP and ammo and have low HIT, but still great for dealing damage to 1 enemy and killing full damage build noobies. PUNCH CANNON: cyber can longer his arms for punching enemy. Really stupid but requires no ammo; also it is ranged. JET BLOW: cyber flies really fast by using his jets and punches enemy from its belly. Bcause of he is so badass, blood comes out from enemy’s body. This spell gets used for reaching enemy and starts melee fight. PUNCH: you punch the enemy. If you dont miss, you can punch next turn. You can only punch three times in a combo, so after that Punch goes cooldown. Bcause of his Punches reducing targets FLE for next turn and dealing massive damage and also dealing damage to targets MP; its Punches consumes too much MP. If you can Punch enemy 3 times after each other; 3rd punch will make enemy unable to move. ENERGY SHIELD: the robot creates an energy field like every mechs doing in Sci-Fi movies so why not? When enemy attacks you it will hit your MP with multiplied by %150 damage. If you turn off your shield you will lose all of your MP and MPR, HPR for next turn and you will gain +%50 HIT, +%50 FLE. The turn after that turn your MP will comeback so you can use your spells again. Also shield will turn off when you reach 0 MP. Than next 2 turns you cant turn on your shield. LIGHTNING JOLT: if you use this spell after turning off Energy Shield you will deal +%50 more damage. And your unexist mana can be consumed for this skill. You shoot lightning which one deals damage to all enemies. If there is less enemy it will deal more damage. This lightning will firstly damage enemy’s FLE for next turn and if it can make FLE 0, than will deal damage HP. LIGHTNING CHARGE: It can only destroy both players MP when it used turn after when Energy Shield turned off manually. You rush to the enemy and punch it. Punch throws enemy to back based on your base speed. If you use same spell after shield off, it will not push enemy but will destroy enemy’s MP by destroying your MP. When one of you reach 0 MP, that event ends. This spell also will deal damage. METAL FORM: you already made of metal but you still want to go in metal form. Metal form is a buff will affect you for next many turns. That buff increases your AMR. Its just that. Increases your AMR for many turns. WASTE: when you die, your remaining ammo will deal damage to enemies in range. All of enemies will take random amount of damage but total damage is always same. BURST SHOOT: you shoot the target with a flamming bullet. Its just that. ARM CANNON: You shoot something unkown but also this attack always missing. When it hits, it deals too much damage for its mana cost. It may hit another random target. Sometimes it causes an explosion and hits many targets. RAINBOW CANNON: you shoot your strongest cannon three times for shooting targets. If three of them hit, it is better than Comet but mostly 1 of them miss. Base values of Cyber(elements will be added when game ends): 3 DMG 1 HIT 0,5 FLE 3 AMR 15 HP 0,5 HPR 10 MP 1 MPR What elements Cyber use? Melee(MLE), Ranged(RNG), MAGnetic, EXPlosive, BuLLet, PLAsma BLoW, WAVe, WiND, HOT, FiRE Sense’s of Cyber: %100 SEE %200 hEAR %200 HEaT %200 MAGnetic Cyber cant fly or swim, bcause of that he has 4 times more attack range than his movement. Also machines are really great ranged units. But Cyber have no ability for escaping. Cyber’s hiding values are: %50 SML %50 MAG %50 HET %0 EAR %150 SEE %200 IDE %200 SUL Cyber is good for killing low FLE and high AMR and low speed units. Cyber is strong against high DMG units.

Topic by yuno44907   |  last reply


Sharpening knifes and similar tools

On the weekend a friend of mine asked me if I could get his 2 fishing knifes ready for the season.Being a nice guy I agreed as they were so blunt that you could sit on the knifes edge without even getting a scratch.Did just the usual, you know, cleaning it first, grinding a proper angle back on it with a very coarse stone, sharpening from a 300 grit down to a 1000 grit and then of course polishing and removing the burr.Was quite pleased with the result and decided to bring the finnished knifes back to my friend....There are several ways to check if a knife is sharp.Most know the newpaper cutting thing.Some dare to try if the knife i able to shave some hair off.And a few actually know that it is enough to check if it won't slip of your fingernail.My friend however was used to knifes that I would consider to be piece of steel with a rounded edge...Of course he had to try to run his finger down the blade and before I could stop him....He said "Feels nice and smooth but I think you ruined the edge with your polishing!".I only said "Get some bandaids before you check your finger and reconsider."Lets just say about 10 seconds after his test he started bleeding like a pig.He actually managed to get the cut about 5mm deep :(We agreed that it would be best to keep these knifes in the boat and to put a note on them so he won't check their sharpness again.There are tons of tutorials and videos showing various ways of sharpening a knife that can be used as a general reference.But if you already know all the basic while still struggling a bit to get the edge and sharpness you desire:The most important thing to know is what type of steel is used in your blade.I don't mean the grade or composition, just the difference between stainless steel and old style steel that is able to rust.You never want to sharpen a stainless steel blade with a stone that is well used on normal steel.If in doubt clean it out!The reason behind is that you cause the steel that is able to oxidise or rust to be worked into the stainless steel surface.In the worst case this can cause rust spots or smalle pits in your sharpened edge.When it comes to restoring the edge of a well worn knife some beginners and so called expert struggle to keep the angle and edge itself even and straight.Tools to overcome this are available, like these guides for a diamond stone on a stick where you cplamp your blade in.There are also "trolleys" that hold your blade at a fixed angle on the stone by means of small wheels.Both have their uses but also a lot of limitations, especially when it comes to the rounded parts of a blade, like the tip or filet knife that is generally curved a bit.Special knifes like the old Kukri knifes have a curved part that goes to the inside, these are a true pain with normal grinding and honing stones, so I will leave them out here, but feel free to ask in the comments if you need more info.The best way I found for restoring a rounded knifes edge without special tools is by using a long diamond file.Preferably with a quite long handle and not too wide.Like with the guide tools the key is to cheat your way through ;)But unlike most guide tools you will still keep the same angle in the curved parts ;)Here are the basic tool required:Long handled diamond fileSome wooden block or similar to get work platforms of different heights (lego blocks work too)A long enough clamp to secure your blade on the block(s)For the last you can also make a screw clamp like a hinge to hold the blade in place.You want to knife to be secured so it won't move and so that you can reach all parts of the edge with the file.Depening on what side you work on or what you prefer the file will rest with the handle either above or below the knife.With the length of the handle you can adjust the required angle, preferably in the 20-25° region.For the straight parts of the blade you work in overlapping sections.Rest the handl so it aligns close to the knifes handle and move the file along the knifes edge.It helps to use a permanent marker on the endge to visualise where you take material off and to check the work area creates a parallel area in the painted bits.When you see some material removed move the handle of the file a bit further towards the pointy bit and continue to create the parallel boundaries.Kepp going back and forth along the straight part of the blade until there is only a tiny area left on the edge where the marker stays visible.For the rounded tip part you place the handle so you can follow the curve on the knife at the same angle as on the straight part.Most knife have this area badly neglected once well used so you might end up with a slightly wider area where material is removed.Once the edge is all reduced to the same slim marker line it is time to repaet the process on the other side at the same angle you used before.Don't be too scared to see in a close up that your edge is not perfectly even or straight, a few imperfections will be buffed out in the next step.To finnish the edge and smooth it out you use a flat stone or diomand plate of similar grid to the file, for example 300.If you do this step right you won't even need fancy guides or tricks after doing it a few times.The key from now on is keep an even angle that matches your initial angle to restore the edge.The old masters were right here to use stones that are either secured tightly in a wooden frame or "clamped" down by a leather strap.Apart from needing a perfectly clean and flat surface on the stone and movement will cause a more or less rounded edge again.Every use one of these fancy chesse slicers that work like a potato peeler?You wanna do the same with your knife on the stone.With the stone in front of you start at the far end and move the blade down like you want to cut a thin slice of the stone.Always with the edge towards you like cutting something off, never the other way around.If you don't mount your stone too high you will notics that it is quite easy to use your palms as a guide to keep an even angle throughout a cutting stroke.To find the right angle you again cheat with a marker.But no matter what type of stne or diamond sharpener you use: use lube!!The coarse types usually are fine with water, diomand anyway, finer or so called "oil sones" require honing oil.Do a few strokes and check the marks you left on the marker.Adjust until you get about the same work area cleaned as in the previous step with the file.You will soon see that there are now uneven areas which cause a wobbly outline on the marker.Continue with this grit until you get a nice and even outline.For the rounded tip area you do it similar but with a slight twisting motion.It can help to do a few dry runs on a piece of cardboard to find the right twist.Simply place the rounded part on the cardboard at the approx angle for the sharpening.Now move the handle so the edge follows the curve on the cardboard - the circular motion you need to get from the straight part to the tip is the "twist" you want during the sharpeing of this area.Again, once satisfied do the same on the other side.Now it is time to decide if you want to keep the angle all the way or if you prefer a beveled edge with a slightly wider angle for actual cutting edge.The later is good for knifes that see a lot of abuse and hard work, the first for everything that needs to be really sharp.I prefer sharp so lets continue with this and if you can't figure out how to get a second agnle on the edge ask me in the comments ;)Depending on the quality of your blade you now need to work your way up the grid.If your edge (the part with marker left) is more than half a mm wide you might want to keep going with 300 grit until no marker is left and the edge develops a slight bur on the other side.From now on cleaning the blade and stone every few minutes is a good thing!Rinse it off, wipe it off, flush it off, whatever works best to keep it clean.If you go to 600 grit you will clearly see the difference in the work area.The scratches buff out an the surface becomes smooth.You keep doing the same slicing technique but only do as many strokes as required to get a slight bur throughout the edge on the other side.You will feel it when you move your finger along the side, one feels smooth, one feel very rough.Areas that stay smooth indicate that there is either still material to be removed or that you created a small dint while sharpening - the marker will tell you.Once you get a bur with just a few strokes you know the edge is there.Time to move the next higher grit you have available.From here on you might need to use oil instead of water and depending on the type of stone you will need to leave some slurry on the stone - check the manual ;)Either way the procedure is still the same: Slice a thin piece off until you get a bur.Then do the other side until both are even.Assuming around 1000 grid is the usual max on a hobby level and that you don't have any finer stone it is now time to take of the bur on the edge.No matter what you try there will always be some but created when sharpening.A lot can be prevented and smoothed out though.To do this you reduce the pressure during the last few strokes and turn the knife around often.When you get to the point where a single stroke causes a bur and another single stroke on the other side inverts the bur the knife is almost ready.Polishing a knifes edge can cause a bit of bluntness.For obvious reasons it is best to sharpen to the honing point where a 5000 - 20000grit wet stone is used, but these are quite expensive and require special care.In other cases like our example here you need to make the best out of it:Get some sturdy old leather like some belt.Use proper glue and clamps to glue it onto a really flat piece of wood.You want the smooth side glued and the rough side of the leather facing up.Prepare the leather with some kitchen knife that is need of sharpening anyway by placing it almost flat onto the strip with the edge facing away from you.With good pressure move the blade toward you.You will have to do this several times to align the fibres in one direction only.Now get some metal polishing paste or if nothing else polishing wax for metal - the fine stuff for the wax type please.Rub it in and work in with the kitchen kifes the same as bafore, always in the same direction.You will create a bit of a mess but that does not matter for now.The leather will become more and more smoth on the surface until it appear quite even.Clean the excess off and grab the real knife.There is now enough lube and polishing material in the leather to last quite a while.Start with the knife as flat as possible, again the edge facing away from you when you move the knife in a slicing motion towards you.Do this for a few minutes and you will see that the sharpened edge becomes shiny where it goes into the knifes body.Once all is polished increase the angle slightly and repeat.In a perfect world the polishing should now go almost to the last bit of the edge, only leaving a very thin rough line.This last line is the critical bit.There are two ways to deal with it, pressure or time.If you keep the last used angle but increase your pressure the blade will go deeper into the leather and the polishing should reach the front of the edge.In the other case you slightly increase you angle but only use very little pressure, more like letting the knife rest on the leather while you move it along.In either case you check the edge often with your finger and once it feel really smooth throuout you stop.Turn the knife over often during this last step as even with the polishing you create a slight bur.Only repeated turning and using as little pressure as possible will remove this last bur on both sides.If you know think your knife is still not sharp enough than you might just have a very cheap knife... ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply