capacitive touch not responsive

I have a cheapo 7 inch android tablet and the capacitive touch screen doesnt work well, some spost work fine but others dont what should i do? also is there anyway of connecting an arduino up with a usb adapter so a program can control it?

Question by The nerdling   |  last reply

Want to find capacitive touch input for project

Hi there, I am working on a personal project and would like to find a capacitive touch input device which is roughly 5x30cm in size and will give me a x,y value for one or two fingers. The resolution does not need to be brilliant - 7 bit range in the x direction and maybe 5 bit in the y direction would be fine. Serial interface which I can use with my Arduino. I would also like to get a "pressure" for each - I know this is asking a lot but the "pressure" can roughly be guessed at not by actual pressure but by perhaps an increased/decreased capacitance or the amount of the surface being covered. I only need this to determine which of the two finger inputs is pressing hardest so again it doesn't need to be precise. Would anybody know of such a device? I mean - there must be companies producing these, I'd not want to go and have a custom one made for price considerations but surely there is something vaguely close. I have looked into the possibility of making one for myself but it appears I would struggle to do something this complex with my Arduino alone and the only IC which will do this with a homemade panel (not that I have the ability to create a capacitive panel with this many pads) seems to be QProx QT1081 which only accepts 8 inputs. Any pointers or ideas would be very gratefully received :) Cheers, Adam

Topic by Adam_D   |  last reply

Building Touch Sensors from Scratch?

I am very familiar with velostat and conductive fabric and how to combine them to make textile touch sensors. I would now like to make a touch sensor that's more solid, and made from a firmer resistive substance than velostat. I've been looking up the resistivity/conductivity of different metals here: In theory, as long as one metal (or other material) is more conductive than the other, it should work the same? I've read on silicon and carbon fiber, but I'm not sure if what I'm researching is the solid kind, or the flimsy/squishy/bendy kind.

Topic by LeAnne_K   |  last reply

Arduino capacitive touch sensor help

So I have been messing around with the Arduino Capsense library with the immensely helpful guide;  (many thanks to DangerousTim!)   using the code provided, i managed to get a relay to operate with a sensor.  It worked great and I was able to adjust the distance and sensitivity.  But when i tried adding another sensor and relay, it stopped working.  I've been trying to isolate the problem for a while now and have gotten nowhere.  I'm hoping someone can help me, here's the original code for the single sensor and relay; #include #include                                           //change '42' to any desired pin... long time = 0; int state = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);  // To add more sensors... //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_6 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 6, pin 6 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil //CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_8 = CapacitiveSensor(4,8);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 8, pin 8 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    pinMode(13, OUTPUT);   } void loop()                    {     long total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);            if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}            // to toggle the state of state         if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){              if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH; }     else state = LOW;     time = millis();     }                     digitalWrite(13, state);            previous = yes;                 delay(10); } and here's the code for the two sensors and relays #include int led = 13;     int led2 = 12;    long time = 0; int state = HIGH; long time2 = 0; int state2 = HIGH; boolean yes; boolean previous = false; boolean yes2; boolean previous2 = false; int debounce = 200; CapacitiveSensor   cs_4_2 = CapacitiveSensor(4,2);        // 10M resistor between pins 4 & 2, pin 2 is sensor pin, add a wire and or foil if desired CapacitiveSensor   cs_5_7 = CapacitiveSensor(4,6);        void setup()                    {    cs_4_2.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);    cs_5_7.set_CS_AutocaL_Millis(0xFFFFFFFF);  //Calibrate the sensor...    pinMode(led, OUTPUT);    pinMode(led2, OUTPUT); } void loop()                    {     int total1 =  cs_4_2.capacitiveSensor(30);     Serial.println(total1);     int total2 =  cs_5_7.capacitiveSensor(30);                     if (total1 > 60){yes = true;}     else {yes = false;}    if (total2 > 60){yes2 = true;}     else {yes2 = false;}           // to toggle the state of state     if(yes == true && previous  == false && millis() - time>debounce){                    if(state == LOW){          state = HIGH;        }        else          state = LOW;          time = millis();      }                          if(yes2 == true && previous2  == false && millis() - time2>debounce){                   if(state2 == LOW){          state2 = HIGH;        }        else          state2 = LOW;            time2 = millis();            }                 digitalWrite(led, state);       previous = yes;       digitalWrite(led2, state2);       previous2 = yes2;                  delay(10); } Any suggestions are always helpful.

Topic by dudes   |  last reply

Bluetooth amplifier with capacitive touch switch

I have a question and I think this community can solve it. It’s about a Bluetooth amplifier (tda7492p). I want to add capacitive touch switches(ttp223) to it. I saw one guy doing it on YouTube ( but I have no idea how I can do it because he didn’t add a wiring diagram to his video. Please give some advise. Thanks in advance!!

Question by Tomv89 

Doornob touch sensor

I took apart a stud finder to see how it worked. Did a quick google search and figured out they work similar to tough sensitive lamps (capacitance). So after soldering an on off switch to replace the push button on it, I taped it to my door, and fine tuned the sensitivity wheel. Now when someone touches the doorknob (on either side of the door), It lights ups.

Topic by boggysandman   |  last reply

brass capacitive touch screen stylus questions

Hello everybody i recently purchased a samsung galaxy 2 tablet and tried to make a brass stylus for it only to find it would not work any ideas why? thank you, fidgety2

Topic by fidgety2   |  last reply

Help: Nexus 4 LCD Touch Screen to Android Mini PC

Hi there, I am attempting to build a portable computer (not exactly sure what to call it). I'm essentially taking the LCD Screen and Touch Digitizer, found in a Nexus 4, and connecting them to an Android Mini PC. I've been looking for a touch digitizer to female micro-USB port connector so it may be connected to the Mini PC via USB port for touch functionality, but have had no luck. On the other hand I'm planning to connect the LCD Display to an HDMI Cable to connect to the Mini PC, and have had no luck there either. Does anyone know how to connect a replacement phone screen to a Mini PC and still have touch functionality? Here are some images of the touch screen.

Topic by Ramzeez100   |  last reply

Square Capacitive Touch RGB LED Buttons

I'm having a hard time finding parts like these - is anyone aware of an RGB LED capacitive touch button?  Preferably with the light and the touch sensor separate (DPDT-type, perhaps?).  I'm looking to make a physical prototype of a mobile puzzle game I'm working on, and this would be an ideal input method. Thanks! -Jesse

Topic by xepherys   |  last reply

How to use a capacitive touch switch with an mp3 module

I have an mp3 / bluetooth module, which I currently use with a set of buttons extended out in parallel from the board ( I'd like to make another system using a similar mp3 module and a set of capacitive touch switches ( )in the original, I just soldered a lead either side of the momentary switches on the board, however the capacitive switches have two power connections, (vcc and ground) and a single output connection so I cant connect them in the same way, how can I connect these switches to be the controls for the mp3 module please?

Question by oragamiunicorn 

Capacitive touchscreen - easy to hack via Arduino?

I have successfully hacked a 4-wire resistive touchscreen overlay, via Arduino, but the touch data is very noisy (mechanical not electronic noise). I'm considering a capacitive screen as a solution: are such screens hackable, using just an Arduino and basic circuit-building skills? Brendan

Question by brendanmccloskey   |  last reply

How to rig a capacitive touch to a usb keyboard (or gamepad)?

I need to make a touch sensitive (capacitive) button that triggers a key. I got a capacitive demo board from qprox that should be fine...I touch it and I can hook it up to an LED that gets lit. But if I try to put the wires from a button on a gamepad to the out of the demo board, the button is constantly in the "Down" state. I think I remember reading somewhere about a polarity reverser or something so that it reverses the On and Off state, but not sure what I need. Also, the demo board is powered via a small watch battery which is perhaps conflicting with the power from the USB? I'm not quite sure the best way to do this. I think I can power the demo board using the USB power rather than the battery. I also would like some advice on creating the Capacitor to a 3" button surface are that goes through 1/4" glass. I've got a resistor that upped the Qs so that it works through glass, but not sure how to make it fit to a desired "button" shape.

Question by superjames   |  last reply

Need help with capacitive button cover for Xbox One.

So I hate capacative buttons.  I work for Microsoft as a game dev and we all have Xbox Ones.  They have the worlds most sensitive capacative power button.  We regularly accidentally turn our boxes off with a slight brush of the hand, bumping a coffee cup that was too close or brushing a controller cord against it. I have been trying to build a button cover.  One that will still turn it on and off with an actual press rather than a light glance of the hand.  I have had no luck so far and have been learning about conductive surfaces along the way. The original plan was to use conductive rubber and some scotch double sided tape.  The tape I am using is a clear rubber and has a mm or so of thickness to it.  I bought some gasket punches and punched out a button about the size of the capacitive area of the Xbox One power button, around an inch, and then another in the tape.  I punched out a smaller center hole in the tape to turn it into a washer, and stuck it onto the button and stuck it on the Xbox.  In theory you have to press the button in to make contact with the capacative button to turn on or off the Xbox.  But alas, it still turned on with the slightest of brush still.  I stacked the tape up to four times.  I tried foam mounting tape.  Alternated tapes, stuck electrical tape inbetween, and still the same thing.   On their own the tapes wouldn't turn on the button when tapping them to, but perhaps there was enough distance when touching holding it length-wise rather than flat against. I figure the electricity must be flowing over the non conductive surface and still going to the button.  In the office with all the EMF I seem to be averaging around 3v to the touch.  I have a grounding mat at my desk that when I make contact with takes me under a volt, to around 0.3v but that doesn't make a difference. So I figured I needed a bigger insulator.   I got some larger machine washers where the hole seemed larger than the capacative area, punched another larger button out of the conductive rubber and glued it over the hole.  Using double sided scotch tape I stuck it to the Xbox.  The same thing as before happened.   Even touching the rubber only was enough to turn it on with a light bump.   I figured I needed a ground.  I tried removing the grounding cord from my mat and holding it against the rubber of the button.   It seems slightly less responsive but still turned on easily.   I tried running copper tape along the side of the Xbox to the button to see if that would draw away the charge, but it did not. Taking my rubber washers I used my multimeter to see if they were conductive at all.  They did not seem to be.  Setting it to measure the volts in ac they are picking up about 0.03v, but so is just the air.  But the rubber rings will turn on the Xbox when I hold them though the thick double sided tape will not. Does anybody have any ideas on how to get this to work or what I am doing wrong?  I will admit I don't know a ton about this stuff.  But I don't understand how these materials can turn the button on.

Topic by technicallyartistic   |  last reply

How to make 12V 2 switch touch panel for car?

Hi guys, I am looking to make a 2 button switch panel for car. I'd like to have capacitive buttons rather than ordinary switches if possible. Something similar to this but smaller and only 2 buttons 1 button needs to be momentary as this is an external power button wired into tablet. 1 button needs to be latching (press for on, press again for off) this controls the accessory power (amp/usb hub etc linked to this) I would like to have them backlit and behind some acrylic so you can just see the light but activate the switch. The capacitive touch buttons I have seen so far all seem to be under 5v and I'll need to work with 12v since it will be inside car. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated 

Topic by alexmallaburn   |  last reply

Where can I get a capacitive touchscreen overlay kit for my laptop?

My laptop is an Asus G72GX (very fast computer) that has a 17.3" screen with 16:9 aspect ratio. I would like to know where I can get capacitive (must be capacitive, resistive is old school and doesn't respond as well) touchscreen overlay kit. I've googled quite a a lot and though I've found some that fit my screen size, but they aren't capacitive. Since my computer runs both Windows 7 and Mac OS X Lion, it also needs to be compatible with Mac OS. -Thank you for you're help

Question by epicnoobpwn   |  last reply

Help needed to build a circuit board for a capacitive touch pad with LED's learning aid.

Hello, I am looking for abit of help.  I am creating a capacitive touch system with blue and Red LED'S that light up when touched.  This is for a friend who has a disabled child, and it is going to be a learning aid for them.   So I have 2m of blue LED's and 2m of red LED's attached to x8 AA batteries. I need to create x2 capacitive touch pads that are 20cm x 20cm and when the system is powered on the Blue LED's are lit up then when either of the pads are touched, it changes the LED's to Red LED's on, and blue off, so it basically switches between red and blue as you touch either of the capacitive pads?   I can create a custom PCB board using PCB WIZARD 3.5 but I dont know what has to go where? Or if you can just buy the PCB board that does this from sumwhere?? I have stripped down a TOUCH LAMP and see if has a pcb board in it, and it changes the light from off>>low>>medium>>high>>off (so it must be possible) Could you please let me know if there are boards I can buy that do this? Or do I have to get one custom built? Thanks for your time   Alex

Question by tenchfilms   |  last reply

What materials will work best to make a phone sleeve that won't activate a capacitive screen?

I have an old phone that I use just for listening to podcasts. Sometimes my leg will activate the screen while I have it in my pocket, and it will start playing audio, or will take other actions like deleting episodes I haven't listened to! I also sometimes touch the screen when taking it out of my pocket. I want to make a sleeve for it that will keep this from happening. I've tried putting different materials over the screen and tapping them to see if they resist the touch, but they aren't working. So far, I've tried paper and silicone-coated sticker backing paper. I also suspect that cotton cloth won't work, because my leg affects the screen through the fabric of my pocket lining. What other materials should I try?

Question by yoyology   |  last reply

Touch sensors using lights and PVC?

Hmm... What would it be like to replace a physical switch with a touch sensitive switch. Instead of using a beam of light to detect a triggering, we use a illuminated transparent PVC plastic. This allows the interface to be more flushed into the wall. How it will work, is that by touching the transparent plastic, you allow a small amount of light to escape. The circuit will detect this drop in light level and trigger the switch. Pros: it looks cool, and is of lower maintenance than a physical switch. Its also cheaper then other options such as capacitive sensing Cons: it can have false readings due to the use of light as a sensing medium.

Topic by akimbo m   |  last reply

Does anyone know of a cheap touch sensitive button?

Hi I am wanting to replace a keyboards buttons with touch responsive ones, and as I am in capable of any cuircitry work, I wonder if any one here knows a cheap and reliable one that I can buy in the uk, and put in place of the buttons. It can be either capacitive or resistive, although I really dont want to have to punch the characters to get a response. This is my first time posting here, and so I may have messed something up. -James

Question by therimmer96   |  last reply

The Bare Conductive Touch Board is LIVE on Kickstarter

Hi Everyone! Just wanted to let you know that our Touch Board is up on Kickstarter, make sure to check it out! You guys have done such amazing stuff with our Electric Paint, we can't wait to see what you do with the Touch Board.  The Touch Board is a way to turn almost any surface into an interface.In the last two years, you have have shown us that there is a real interest in developing unexpected interactions with our Electric Paint among other materials. We decided to make the electronics a whole lot simpler by developing the Touch Board. It is an Arduino-compatible board with a specific capacitive sensing chip and an MP3/MIDI player on board. Check out the Kickstarter page for all the details. There is a ton of cool stuff about the board, but it basically boils down to three points: Radical Interfaces: The Touch Board uses capacitive sensing to turn any conductive material into an interface. Imagine light switches painted on the wall with our Electric Paint, interactive books or hidden sensors that can detect a whole person. The Touch board can also be used to create distance sensors which work from up to 20cm away - which is as cool as it sounds. No Programming Required: We'll be shipping the Touch Boards pre-programmed to turn touch into sound so all you'll need to do is plug in a micro USB cable or LiPo (we've built in onboard charging) and a speaker and you're ready to go. Touch any one of the electrodes and the MP3/MIDI player will play the associated track from the supplied microSD card. Changing the sounds is as simple as changing the card. Arduino-compatible: We wanted to make sure that this board was easy to use and had as wide an audience as possible so we based it off an Arduino Leonardo. It can be programmed in the Arduino IDE, it works with most shields and it can act as an HID. We're proud to say that we're part of the new Arduino at Heart program. Working with Arduino has been great and they're fully behind the Touch Board. Check out our campaign for a lot more info and let us know what you'd make with the Touch Board! THANKS! - Bare Conductive

Topic by Bare Conductive 

PICAXE Electronic interference?

I have solved the problem by making two changes.Firstly, a 22k resistor was put from I/O 2 to ground.Secondly, I had to modify the program to be the following, and accept any value as an input as long as it was not 0. The new program is shown below:main:low 1 &apos;discharge led on Pin 1input 2 &apos;make pin 2 an inputreadadc 2, b1 &apos;read pin 2 using ADCif b1 > 0 then flash goto main &apos;loop back roundflash:&apos;led sequencehigh 1pause 100low 1goto mainI've been having a bit of an odd problem...I'm trying to use a PICAXE 08M with a touch input, so a user touches a wire or bridges 2 wires and the uC responds based on the program, at the moment, turns an LED on.Now, Initially, I've tried a few things, until sort of by accident I noticed that using the program I was, the LED turned on by touching the input pin of the PICAXE, with nothing attached to it except one short piece of wire. I know the human body has certain capacitive qualities, but I wouldn't have thought it would be enough for this. The LED started turning on when I got close to the breadboard it was on, never mind the wire.I tried moving the board, while I had my finger on the wire, and found that when I got a certain distance from my laptop (About 1 ft or so) the LED would go out, and not come on again. Strangely, it does the same when my laptop is turned off!So what I was wondering is, what could my laptop be doing that enables the PICAXE to get an input from seemingly nothing? Could it be some sort of EM field from it? Incidentally, the same thing happens close to my TV.The code i'm using is below.main:low 1 &apos;discharge led on Pin 1input 2 &apos;make pin 2 an inputreadadc 2, b1 &apos;read pin 2 using ADCif b1 < 40 then flash goto main &apos;loop back roundflash:&apos;led sequencehigh 1pause 100low 1goto main

Topic by whatsisface   |  last reply

diy tablet

Hello all i was wondering if anyone knows if i can use the monitor and digitizer in an android tablet on a Intel atom moboard? basically I'm wanting to turn my 10" android tablet into a windows tablet with capacitive touch.

Topic by skullkeeper80   |  last reply

how to "ROOT" samsung intercept for sprint Answered

1)     how do i "ROOT" my samsung intercept from sprint? i found a few apps that are amazing     ("wifi tethering", "set CPU", "root explorer" "root manager"), but  i need superuser (root)     access. can anyone explain what "ROOT" is and how to get it?     (update) I'm starting to understand "ROOT" is.) 2)      and what is  "KERNAL" 3)      i want to install flash player 10.1 on my intercept from sprint, but after i installed, it was the      same. do i have to root my phone? 4)     i cant find any good info on HOW to root the SPRINT INTERCEPT phone. 5)     which is better, the samsung moment, or the samsung intercept? 6)     is this the ONLY phone the SUCKS in EVERY SENSE (bad screen re;  unable to root;  no     multi-touch; android 2.1;  no flash support;  non-sensitive capacitive buttons;       unresponsive;  slow) 7)     (update), my phone updated today and now is running 2.2, froyo. now the capacitive      buttons work the way there supposed too. but i still cant i update flash.  and is rooting      gonna be possible (or at lest possible)? (re update 2011 Jan. 11) my phone still has no multi-touch (except for the "pinch to zoom" like before.but only on the browser); no flash player; and the hardware still SUCKS (bad res LCD screen, "EV-rev O" radio, ABSOLUTELY TERRIBLE built in memory) some reason this phone after the 2.2 update, is a LOT slower and more unresponsive then before. 8) does anyone know how to root this phone and flash it with some better-suited software for this model phone (m910)

Question by -max-   |  last reply

Code of determination the position of my finger in a screen

Hello guys I am so happy to be in this big helpful community. So I am student and I love electronics, this is why I am working on a touch screen working with the technology of projected capacitive sensors using, of course the Arduino Unoto determine the position of my finger on the screen and show it on an interactive screen (like the project of the 3D tracking interface Because I want to know more about this domain also to share this project with the geek of electronics in Instructables and learn more about Arduino . So please guys I need an example of an Arduino sketch to show the position of my finger. I know that's I didn't talk about the details, so if you want to make this project happen , this is my Facebook account (

Topic by FarfaouiM   |  last reply

iPad/Tablets for Disabled with robotic X/y plotter

HI all! I develop tech stuff for people with very significant physical challenges.  The iPad has been a great boon to those disabled persons that can use their fingers/hand to access it.  But this leaves quite a few of the people I work with left out. I wish to create a "plotter", similar to the old CAD/CAM plotters, with the movable X and Y coords that would be adjustable for iPad, and the Androids, Nooks, Kindle, etc.  It could be controlled, by the disabled user, by joystick.  When the destination is reached, they would press a joystick button and a 'pointer' (instead of an ink marker) would tap down on that spot.  I realize that many of these tablets require a capacitive touch and I have found pointers/styli, that seem to get around this somehow, so it's the robotics portion that I don't have experience with. Would anyone be available for contracting to do this? RJ :)

Topic by rjcooper 

Cleaning house I mean machine shop

Ok...finally compiled a list of everything that's going so I don't have to make multiple posts... this is it:Water Heater 10 gal. Electric 22x24" $100CRT Monitors Qty. 4 FreeToledo Scale Vintage Counting Scale $100Electrical Boxes Various sizes, shapes $10eaDayton Right Angle Motors (Davit motors) qty2 (L&R;) 1/35hp from a boat model 5K5355 RPM 1725 $300 for both or $200eaExtrusion Various sizes, shapes, qty. $1/lbCable winch from boat trailer $20Time Clocks Mechanical, broken $20 for bothBrewmatic Junior Industrial Coffee Pot $60Baseboard Heater $15Matsuura tool holders *NEW* (qty2) setting/changing fixtures fits BT40 $470 for both or $275ea2 Spring Testers 1 torsion $Price unknown at this time1BridgePort DRO +Scales Scales OK, DRO broken $100Mitutoyo Touch Signal Probe 192-001 $115Micrometers Mitutoyo 8-9" part# 103-223 $125 & 10-11" part# 103-225 $135 or $200 for bothGarnet Hopper Jet Edge new this runs $8700! $800Spring Wire Various sizes, stainless (17-7, 302) and music wire $1/lb - large coils (pm/email for list)Drill Sharpener Darex M4 w/ accessories $500Drill Sharpener SRD 80-M $400Garmin GPS Old, still works! $10Briggs & Stratton Motor NEW. 18hp cast iron, twin cyl. 964cc $999Metal Desk 60" wide, seafoam green metal $60Hose Clamps 5.25" in diameter $.25/eaCoffing Hoist 1/2 Ton 3 phase hoist. Works, but is dirty. Has controls $450Pepsi Machines 2 older can machines. They work & we have keys $100Lip Cutter/Grinder Alexander 2CG (for engraving tools)w/accessories $600Capacitance Meter Emco Capacitance Meter, old, good condition. $20All prices are obo. It can be shipped UPS (sometimes USPS). I have pictures for most of the things on the list.Email if you are interested. I don't check PMs very often, but PMs ok too!THANKS!

Topic by Rainbowlaces   |  last reply

How can I make a water level indicator panel for an RV fresh water tank?

I'm rehabbing an RV.    It has a 100 gallon fresh water tank made out of plastic (polyethylene). The tank has four built in sensors on the side of it, 0%, 25%, 50%, 75%, I assume these sensors are just a bolt sticking through the side into the water. How can I make a simple indicator panel which will light up an LED for 25%, 50%, and 75%? I doubt I'd just be able to use the electrical conductivity between the 0% sensor and the other three, as the electrical resistance would be too high to send any usable connection through the water, am I correct? But maybe something based on capacitance?   Anyone know how to build something like that?   My skills are too rusty to think that through. Maybe I could cannibalize the sensor out of one of those touch sensitive table lamps and use it as the basis for my indicator panel? I'd prefer not to use an arduino or pi for this, I need something incredibly simple and robust.   I realize those would do the job but I need the quick and dirty solution. Thanks in advance for your help. EDIT:   Here is a webpage that talks in depth about the standard tank monitors and how to upgrade it with an Arduino.   Unfortunately, this seems incredibly over engineered for this task and I don't have the liberty of spending the time to do this, as I am working with a tight deadline.  But it does discuss the resistor network which was originally used with the sensors on the tank.   Since the original display panel on mine was too damaged to save, I thought it wouldn't be too hard to rig up something simple to replace it.

Question by JimTheSoundman   |  last reply

Outdoor electronic log drums.

We would like to make some outdoor drums made from logs that when hit trigger a relay which turns on a light. It it is proving to be very tricky to get a reliable system. We have tried using microphones with a small circuit to detect when triggered, these have worked the best but we get many false triggers and other times not triggering at all, we have tried adding pre amps to these microphones to try to boost the signal.  We have also tried to use capacitive touch sensors on top of the logs but again, many false triggers. The set up is installed outdoors for over a month and can sometimes be made to work but then the temperature and humidity will change and this causes them to false trigger or to not trigger at all, we are currently toying with the idea of hall effect or reed sensors, many of set into each log with a neodymium magnet in the end of the drum stick. If anybody has any ideas of how we can make a reliable system for installation outdoors that works through all the temperature and humidity changes please let me know. 

Question by mrhoopdogg   |  last reply


HI GUYS. I HAVE A LDR light sensor I would like to use to turn on a light bulb through a attin85. when I upload the sketch to the Arduino it works fine. but when I upload to the attiny, I can't get it to work. am I'm wiring it wrong? when I put my signal from my ldr sensor to AO and 2 to the led it works on Arduino, but when I do that with the Attiny85 it doesn't do anything. The sketch did upload correctly though so it has to be me wiring it wrong or I need to change the code maybe to cater to the attiny85?my sketch is int LDR = 0; int LDRValue = 0; void setup() { pinMode(2, OUTPUT); void loop() { LDRValue = analogRead(LDR); delay(50); if (LDRValue < light_sensitivity) { digitalWrite(2, HIGH); } else { digitalWrite(2, LOW); } }

Question by jman2018   |  last reply

Starting point for designing an android handheld game device?

I've had plenty of ideas before, and one of them was to design my own game system.  Specifically, a handheld. Years back, it was just something that was like the DS - basic system with some random ideas, and of course, could play games.  Now? Figured I'd hop on the bandwagon and now I wanna do something with android - or something similar to it. Think to those PSP knockoffs that use android.  Only 1000x awesome. Fairly high density screen (not quite retina display quality... but a decent resolution) CAPACITIVE Multi-touch screen Physical buttons Sleek case This is the type of thing I'd want.  Probably some kind of modified SD Card would be used for non-downloaded games, or something.  Or SOME kind of chip-based storage device. If anything, this is first and foremost intended as a personal project for the sake of learning, and creating something.  Even if it doesn't become something that's sold to people, I'd love to eventually invest cash into this, if only to say "Hey, I made this".  So money and everything isn't an object... I just have to actually save up the cash, and of course figure out the final cost of this thing. Unfortunately, while I have built a PC before, I can't say I fully figure out what I'd need for this project.  The following is what I assume I need: Power source (AC Adapter, batteries/battery pack (lithium ion probably?). LCD Screen+Digitizer Motherboard Ram Flash storage (SSD or mini HDD?) Embedded OS (or dedicated storage for the OS and any updates?) Speakers Buttons PCB board ... It's rather early, and there's plenty of other things I figured I'd need for this stuff, including various tools, whatever is used for etching the PCB, solder, etc...  The main thing though, for the barebones stuff - excluding a case, and anything else... What are the very specific things I need?  The basic electronics... input, video (output), some sort of storage/ram.. I'm not quite sure how I'd go about doing this.  Nor have I found anyplace online to start reading up on this.  How would I have to deal with the screen?  What kind of board do I need?  Where would I find a place that can create custom chips (if needed) or, where would I find the various processors I need for this (ARM processors?  intel instead?)

Question by anthonyloprimo   |  last reply

Broken Scope Update: Transistor testing? Replace blown ones with commonly available equivalents? or BER?

So in a previous question, I have stated that my oscilloscope died, and listed the symptoms. Since then, I have popped the cover off, had a look inside, and was I found inside what certainly appears like a "mod," it goes off to the 3 by 3 connector I have mentioned also. I forgot to mention a small blueish purplish wire was next to it, similarly just sticking out the scope. I figure it is a MOD because it is: A) precariously mounted to the transformer with only one small nut on the transformer B) Has so many bodge wires crawling around on it, that it looks more like a cobweb (and w/o silastic or hot glue for vibrations/stress) C) Sloppy soldering and flux residue left behind indicating hand soldering D) The PCB has a very different appearance than the rest of the boards inside; No solder mask, greyish white, and no silkscreened values, parts, or numbers. I traced both the wire and the connector and ribbon cable to the same mod board, which clearly got toasted. There was a small orange wire tangling off that board, it it broke off before I even realised it. Luckily the pictures show roughly where it was connected. Tracing the blue wire back to the board, I discovered it is connected directly to one of the cooked resistors, and I think the other cooked one was in series with it. The only connection found to the main board is the orange wire, and there are ceramic capacitors in series on that crappy looking PCB, indicating it is capacitively coupled. I was Hoping that what had happened was the blue wire came into contact something it was not supposed to, and shorted the output of that chip causing it to catastrophically fail, knocking out power to some of the boards. Unfortunately did not appear to the the case, and the supply voltages seem OK. Nothing appears obviously burned out on any of the other boards from what I can tell. However, just today I have discovered that some driver transistors, which are mounted to heat sinks, are getting unconfortably hot to touch. I suspect they may be blown, by the blackening and discoloration around them on the PCB.They themselfs do not appear to have any physical damage. I will desolder them and connect them to a transistor tester I have to see if they register as operational. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ As for some additional questions, can I replace those weird looking obscure transistors with standard ones? I am not sure of their exact specs, the only datasheets I can find for "2SA818" and "2SC1628" are some scanned PDF datasheets that are not in english, and I certainly could not find replacements online for them. I have the gut feeling radioshack is not going to carry them either. :P I hope this is not Beyond Economical Repair (BER), but used analog scopes can be bought used for around $30-$70, and of course I am on the verge of getting something better than that.

Question by -max-   |  last reply

Can you help me convert some Basic code to Processing code for calculating 555 IC timing?

I want to modernize this BASIC code that I found for calculating the values of capacitors, or resistors to use for timing with the 555 IC. /* This BASIC code taken from the Ramsey Electronics Universal Timer - Oscilator Kit UT5 instructions I decided to convert it into processing since no one really uses basic like this anymore. But you still can. I don't. 10 PRINT "FIND FOR TIME [T], MICROFARADS [C] OR OHMS [R]?" 20 INPUT "ENTER SELECTION: "; X$ 30 IF X$ = "T" THEN 100 40 IF X$ = "C" THEN 200 50 IF X$ = "R" THEN 300 100 INPUT "C1 in microfarads = ";C 110 INPUT "R3 in ohms = ";R 120 PRINT "TIME (seconds) ="; (1.1 *C*.000001)*R 130 PRINT 140 GOTO 10 200 INPUT "Desired TIME in seconds = "; T 210 INPUT "R3 in OHMS = "; R 220 PRINT "Required capacitance in ufd. = "; T/(1.1*.000001*C) 230 PRINT 240 GOTO 10 300 INPUT "Desired TIME in seconds = "; T 310 INPUT "Value of C1 in microfarads = "; C 320 PRINT "Required value of R3 in ohms = "; T/(1.1*.000001*C) 330 PRINT 340 GOTO 10 */ /** typedinput taken from @author Tom Carden */ // code was also taken from: // Learning Processing // Daniel Shiffman // // Example 18-1: User input // Variable to store text currently being typed String typing = ""; // Variable to store saved text when return is hit String saved = ""; String typedText = "Find for time [T], microfarads [C] or ohms [R]?"; PFont font; void setup() {   size(640, 480); //bigger window. Orginal code has small window   font = createFont("CourierNew", 18);   //fixed width font rather than other ugly font   //suggested in original code. } void draw() {   /*is this like the equiv to loop in arduino? I don't know I hate this language anyway. BASIC is easier to follow, but I wanted to make this program easiliy accessible for modern people.*/   background(255);   fill(255,0,0);   textFont(font,18);   // this adds a blinking cursor after your text, at the expense of //redrawing everything every frame   text(typedText+(frameCount/10 % 2 == 0 ? "_" : ""), 35, 45);   //nice touch orginal coder! } void keyPressed() {     if (key == '\n' ) {     saved = typing;     // A String can be cleared by setting it equal to ""     typing = "";   }   if (key == 't' || key == 'T') {     typedText = typedText.substring(0,max(0,typedText.length()-1));     TIME();   }   if (key == 'c' || key == 'C') {     MICROFARADS();   }   if (key == 'r' || key == 'R') {     OHMS();   } else {     //value = 0;     typedText = typedText + key;   } } void keyReleased() {   if (key != CODED) {     switch(key) {     case BACKSPACE:       typedText = typedText.substring(0,max(0,typedText.length()-1));       break;     case TAB:       typedText += "    ";       break;     case ENTER:     case RETURN:       // comment out the following two lines to disable line-breaks       typedText += "\n";       break;     case ESC:     case DELETE:       break;     default:       //typedText += key;     }     if (key == 't' || key == 'T') {     typedText = typedText.substring(0,max(0,typedText.length()-1));   }   } } void TIME(){    background(255);   fill(255,0,0);      typedText = "\nC1 in microfarads = ";      //typedText = typedText.substring(0,max(0,typedText.length()-1));      //typedText += key;      //keyReleased();    } void MICROFARADS(){} void OHMS(){}

Question by powerman666   |  last reply