Question by jignesh shah | last reply
Search for carbon filter in Topics
Hi, I have a cabin air filter in my car. Toyota sells activated carbon filters that helps absorb odours, but not for my model car. i was wondering if its possible to impregnate the filter with activated carbon / activated charcoal myself somehow? thanks for any ideas!
Topic by hoobyjuice
Is a brita carbon water filter in its original case with holes on both sides, is it safe to breath true?
Good evening community; my question regarding the construction of a gas mask, mask is done and my filter is a brita carbon water filter in its original case with holes on both sides, is it safe to breath true this water filter. thanks in advance.https://www.vacuumgenie.co.uk/brita-maxtra-plus-single-water-filter-cartridge-1025352.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx-Dh18jH5gIVWeDtCh3GFwgkEAYYAyABEgJaPvD_BwE#.Xf5-2mTVKpo
Question by celalboz | last reply
I have been reading about the subject, and most articles tell that carbon filters are good for solder chemicals, fumes and odors, while HEPA filter are designed to remove dust, allergens and micro-organisms from the air. Supposedly, solder fume extractors should use both filters for an efficient filtering of the chemicals. Is this correct? Thanks for your time! Source: https://www.google.com.ar/url?sa=t&rct;=j&q;=&esrc;=s&source;=web&cd;=4&cad;=rja&uact;=8&ved;=0ahUKEwiWkOu6v8nPAhUIPJAKHXhDCgEQFgg1MAM&url;=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.solderconnection.com%2Fspecsheets%2FLead-Free_Solder_Fumes_Increase_Need_for_Fume_Extraction.pdf&usg;=AFQjCNHqetU2dZG3hSaRNmPIl1LhUObshw (The link redirects to a PDF file!)
Question by superpanchox | last reply
Is there a way to filter out certain categories of instructables while browsing? I know that I can choose to only view a particular category using the /category: flag, but I'm trying to figure out how to filter out certain categories while seeing all the rest when browsing the latest instructables. For example, the recent explosion of knitting projects or the k'nex craze a while back. Nothing against either of those types of instructables; I'm just not interested in them, and they're so prolific they kind of drown out everything else. I tried searching for an answer, but I keep coming up with activated carbon filters and guitar noise filters :P Anybody know of a way?
Topic by chantling | last reply
I'm working on a high school science fair project which concentrates on the CO2 emmissions of automobiles and anlyzes two methods of filtering CO2 from car exhaust. It's really a pretty simple project - except that i don't have a Carbon Dioxide monitor. Online they range from $200-800 and i've contacted the enviornmental department at a local university to see if they can help me. I'm still waiting on a reply but i'm wondering if any of you guys (or gals) have any ideas on how i can find the concentration of CO2 in car exhaust.
Question by Aaron Cole | last reply
Hello everyone, I am trying to make a water purification device which needs to have compressed activated carbon filter. I am facing the problem of binding the charcoal dust together so that it does not come out when contacted with water. I tried making the briquettes with starch but it is water soluble. I have read some papers on binding the charcoal using extrusion process but could not find what exactly is the binder used. Here the binder should not cover the surface area of the carbon particles as well. I am looking to find here, what is the binder used and how is it used, i.e, ratios. I want to make something like this in the image which is water insoluble.
Question by vin177 | last reply
hi i am curios what you peeps think what is better to make for soldering a fume extractor carbon based or a ventilation system because i am getting kinda sick of always blowing away the smoke from soldering thou i am used to smoke since i smoke myself (and yes i also smoke the herbs) <- to remove possible coming jokes -_- but i have a hard time choosing what to build so i let you guys help me choose hehe ^^ also i live in the netherlands in-case of resources to make it (for carbon filters) because i do not know the dutch and eu laws about such things i look forward to your replies ^^ greets angellicktrooper aka naku
Topic by angellicktrooper | last reply
I mistakenly put the gasoline i used for my weed wacker (Gas and oil) in my mower and it doesnt run very good now.
I have changed the spark plug a couple times and it is pretty dirty with carbon. I even tried carbuerator cleaner . It has no gas filter
Question | last reply
Ok i have moved into a new studio which does not have an external vent fitted to the cooker hood and relies on a re-circulation kit comprising of a small tower and a disposable carbon filter (which can cost quite a bit to keep replacing). So what i was thinking was how about ducting it to a homemade condenser, something simple like a plastic container with a cut off of hood filter attached to an area near the top of the container and the vent ducted in through the top of the container it could be primed with an inch or so of water to get the process going..... i recon my concept is pretty basic but am i heading in the right direction?
Topic by Tallanted | last reply
My Idea so far is to use an air pump (maybe one similar to the one that pumps up inflatables?) is to feed air down a tube to a modified snorkle mask with a 1-way valve going in, and a one-way valve feeding just into plain water. The air pump would have filters and a catalytic carbon-monoxide filter/converter (w/ small heating element) in the tube leading down to the mask. The idea is that there is always a fresh supply of air running through the mask that there could be no deadly build-up of bad gases within the small area. Included is a picture of how I envison it (minus the lame Microsoft Paint drawing skills).
Topic by Zalo | last reply
Lately I've been looking into home water purification; and I was hoping I could get some community support, and ideas :) So far in my online research, I have found that active carbon works well as a filter. So, I was thinking I could sew some between two pieces of fabric, and then put it at the bottom of a pvc pipe, thus letting the water go through it; From there, I got the idea of making a wooden box, which will be just about (1 ft x 1 ft) all the way around. I'd also line the inside with a plastic sheet, like those found in a home pond. I think that would make a good housing for the filtering equipment; I'm still working out the details on the actual purification of the water; I have a basic understanding of it, though if you have some insight, please do share :) Also, if active carbon would be a good solution, where would be a good place to find it; I live in the Glendale, Arizona area, so somewhere around here, if you could.
Topic by James.Litewski | last reply
I don't ask for much help but this time I am reaching the end of my knowledge and patience with landlord and water authorities.That's the story so far:When I moved in I did the usual checks and tests but of course did not pay too much attention to what comes out of my taps.After a few weeks I noticed that the drain in bathroom sink seems to rust on the enamel....Easy wipe with some cleaner fixed it but since the actual drain is made of brass I started to wonder what caused the discoloration in the first place.A bit later I had my niece here and while she had a shower I realised that I only get very little hot water from any other tap in the house.Landlord stated that no one would need hot water from two outlets at one and refused to have it checked out - WTF??Paid for plumber myself and the result was not good.The hot water system is connected "open" was his answer after half an hour of messing around.For the lame man it means that whenever there is a pressure difference between hot and cold water it will go through the hot water system.Did not fully get this so he showed me in the laundry.Open the hot water a bit and it runs out fine, open the seperate cold water tap and the hot water stops.This even worked when turning on the cold water in the kitchen.The water is able to go back into the hot water system through the outlet much easier than through the inlet side.And to top it off, the current install basically turns the hot water system into a giant bypass valve :(Paid a few bucks extra so I would get that same explanation in writing for my landlord a few days later.The next and growing problem is the chemical smell.If highly chlorinated then my aquarium test kit would show this and recommend to use a water conditioner when using tap water to top the tank up.And it does not really smell like any chlorinated water I know.Definately a chemical cleaning or sanitation smell though.The plumber could not do more than basic tests so I contacted my water supplier.To my surprise they were happy to send someone out for free.Of course they only cared about their product and all tests were limited to the tap right next to the water meter.Pressure ok.Water clearity ok.Chlorine levels next to zero."Harmful substances test" came back negative as well.It was recommended that I have the plumbing under the house inspected for the water color changes and smells/bad taste.And I had to admit that what came out of the front tap really looked and smelled fine.Work slowed me down for a while and the problem only came back to my mind when I came back from a weekend trip.Needed something to drink quickly so I filled a glass from the tap.It came out like from a rusty bucket.Definately of brownish color and the chemical smell worse then ever.Had to let the water run for about 15 minutes to get something out I dared to drink.Installed a water filter a few days later and though all is good now.Pre-filter, 0.5 micron filter and then a cartridge with activate carbon.Am a single and the unit was meant to be for a busy family.Should have been good for well over 5000 liters of water.I don't really use much in the kitchen for drinking and cooking purposes so I guesstimated I need new filters every 12 to 18 months at worst.They lasted less than 4 weeks before the water came out in drops instead or running....Cutting the fliters open revealed that both pre- and fine filter were fully blocked and brown.Provided all documents and evidence to my landlord but again was told there is no issue and the house is just old :(As a last resort I tried to get under house yesterday to check the pipes itself.Couldn't get all the way in due to all the pipes from the ducted heating system.But I found a bad mess of literally all bad plumbing skills.From the water meter a just finger thick copper pipe goes under the house.This goes into some 1/2" galvanised steel pipe and it look the main way of sealing the connection was some glue or resin around the screw fitting.The same old gal but thinner pipes go close to where the connections for water go.There the "plumber" again used screw on press fittings and glue to connect to thin copper pipes.Hot water is designed the same way, one big gal pipe straight through and then thin copper pipes connected to it.I am not a plumbing expert but I do know that copper and steel won't mix if water is involved.Assuming the hot water system is affected in the same way then this giant battery is eating away the thick gal pipes while supplying me with all the byproducts of this galvanic reaction.The landlord won't budge unless I take legal action and around here you would want to do this as a tennant.Right now I have a long garden hose from the front tap going through my kitchen window :(At least I get usable drinking and cooking water this way, my fish no loger suffer losses after the topping up the water from this hose either...But this can't go on like this.Once the gal pipes start to leak the landlord is required to act but not before that.And chances are these thick pipes will last a few more years before failing :(If i wouldn't know better then I would say at some stage the ducted heating was replaced and to have more room all but the main gal pipes were removed.All copper pipes are the flexible ones and are bend to follow the floor and wooden beams.What are my real life options to fix this water problem?A set of filters ever 4 or 6 weeks sets me back close to 120 bucks each time, hence the garden hose :(What sort of tests can I make to determine what is actually created in my water that causes the smell, taste and discoloration?By the way: a simple rust test available to check for corroded steel pipes only shows traces of rust even if the water is of a slight brownish color.Replacing the piping myself is not just far over my budget but also not allowed for a tenant.And somehow I still wonder if there is more hiding in the walls but could not get close enough to see if the opper pipes actually connect to the taps or just another piece of old steel pipe.Apart from the obvious, what are the dangers of having steel and copper pipes mixed like this for my health?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Hello 'iblers, Over the past 6 weeks I have made what I think is Ferrocyanide, but I need some confirmation, OR if anyone can tell me some tests I can do on the evaporation to confirm it is ferrocyanide. I have made this, so I can make Prussian Blue, so I can then make the old school 'crystal forest' trick. Any tips on handling the crystals will be of great use as well, also what type of care should be taken. Ferrocyanide from what I have read is not dangerous like its salt namesake 'cyanide', any more info here will help me as well. I have the MSDS for it, and studied some, but some personal experience would be better info. Update: How I am creating the ferrocyanide: - 5g Iron Oxide ( Rust ) - 10g Carbon ( Charcoal ) - 10g Sodium Carbonate ( Lectric Soda Crystals, Washing Soda etc ) - Mix the fine powders together thoroughly in a container - Place mix into a red hot crucible and it will fuse slightly - Stir mixture when purple flames are visible until the flames cease - Cool to room temp - Break mass into a large amount of hot water and stir vigorously - Filter off unreacted carbon and iron not absorbed - Evaporate, resulting in Ferrocyanide
Question by AtomRat | last reply
I received this Instructables newsletters and it landed in my SPAM filter. All other Instructables newsletters came directly to my site. Here is the body of the newletter. Let me know at oboist1 @gmail.com if this is a legit Instructables Newsletter or not: from Instructables to firstname.lastname@example.org date Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 8:20 AM subject Carbonated Fruit, Water Bottle Launcher, Homemade Sunscreen mailed-by me-ss2-6zuaan.mailengine1.com hide details 8:20 AM (54 minutes ago) Contests USB Contest Carbonated Fruit Water Bottle Launcher Homemade Sunscreen Garage Climbing Wall Bicycle Smoothie Maker Sign Chair Fix a Broken Surfboard Floating Dock Kombucha Recipes Easy Summer Salad Catch Fruit Flies Freehand Glass Etching Pinhole Cameras $40 USB Telescope Jar of Fireflies Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA Update Profile / Unsubscribe
Topic by oboist1 | last reply
Sign-up for our newsletter here. Mar. 27, 2008 Welcome back! Enter the new April Fools' Day speed contest! Show us a clever prank and win some cool prizes. Burning Questions is back with Round 4. Answer a question from our list to win our eternal thanks and an Instructables patch! Both the Pocket-Sized speed contest and Pets Month will be ending in a few days. This is your last weekend to enter! Check out these cool instructables! How to refill a "disposable" Brita brand water pitcher filter with activated carbon. Why buy a replacement filter for $6 to $10 (or more) when you can refill your old filter cartridge housing for about 50 cents?! posted by IAMSatisfied on Mar 24, 2008 Shopping Bag Wallet Make a virtually indestructible wallet with a very surprising design by reusing one of those strong shopping bags. posted by rollin on Mar 24, 2008 Make a Vibrating Dog Collar for a Deaf Dog Hack a remote control car with a dog collar to give yourself a way to call your deaf dog. All for about $5. posted by arcticpenguin on Mar 26, 2008 Make Shingles and Siding Out of Aluminum Cans (Beer Can Roof) This chicken coop is protected by the power of hard work and a lot of beer. posted by robbtoberfest on Mar 24, 2008 15-Minute Halter Top Need a halter top RIGHT NOW? Here's how to make a stylish, no-sew top in just 15 minutes with an old T-shirt and a pair of scissors. posted by Smexy Dead on Mar 24, 2007 Making a PostSecret in Photoshop PostSecret is an online art project that allows people to anonymously mail in postcards with their secrets on them. Try making one of your own. posted by AmandaRose on Mar 23, 2008 What tricks are up your sleeve? Pocket-Sized Speed Contest Give your old shirta new life! Portable speaker in a CD case Now that you only listen to MP3s, try making your own portable speaker in your old CD case. Here's how you do it. posted by fatrickuk on Mar 21, 2008 Fireball Shooter! Make a flaming fireball shooter just like magicians use. Save your cash and make your own! posted by Kipkay on Mar 22, 2008 Transform a boring old black t-shirt with bleach! Here's a way to transform boring old black t-shirts into "something else." It's like tie-dying, but uses bleach to remove the color, instead of adding it. posted by stinkymum on Mar 1823 2008 Pocket Graffiti Pen Crack open a permanent marker to make an impromptu device for getting a funky sprayed-on look. posted by PocketSized on Mar 21, 2008 Green Rainwater Use this simple but beautiful way to collect rainwater for use in your yard so that it need not go to waste. The best part: you can create it yourself. posted by Michelle Kaufmann on Mar 24, 2008 Pink Eraser USB Flash Drive Use an analog icon to hide your flash drive in this digital age. posted by fungus amungus on Mar 26, 2008 Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric
Topic by fungus amungus
Is it possible to hook up a device using composite video (from the red, white, and yellow tri-cables) to my computer?
I ripped open a cheap mini surveillance camera and removed the IR filter, but now I'm tied to the TV if I want to see what it does. I believe it uses a composite video cable, (the yellow cord on those red, white, and yellow three-in-one cables), to output the video to the TV. Is it possible (as in cheap :P ) to connect that cable to my computer and view the video? I'd been thinking that I would just use an adapter to convert it to S-video, but the port on my laptop clearly says "S-video Output," so I doubt that it would be able to interpret the signal. Free apps for this? I'm open to ideas.
Topic by carbon | last reply
hello, i would like to know, what the best way would be to separate tin from tinned copper wire. i recently attempted to build a MOT welder and now am left with quite alot of wire, and i require the tin for tin oxide. im wondering, what would i need to do, after i dissolve all the wire in hydrochloric acid, to extract the tin? its my understanding that tin and copper chlorides decompose easily into their oxides, and i only need somewhat pure tin, as the electrode connector for my MMO titanium mesh (the part which will stick out of the cell which i will connect the cables to), and i only need roughly 70-80% pure tin metal, which i will reduce using my furnace and some pure carbon, in order to get a metal. or would it be ok for me to just melt the metals as is and let them separate in the crucible, and have all the fiberglass and resin just burn off? otherwise, would heating their chlorides (i require a soluble form to filter away resin and fiberglass), yeild tin oxide and not copper oxide, or would weaker acids like carbonic acid be able to dissolve the tin? sorry for all the questions but i really need some tin and i dont wanna blow this one shot i got here! i already have a theory on how this will all work, i just require a second (somewhat) proffesional) opinion. also i am already taking full precautions to ensure i dont get chlorine poisoning, so dont bother with the warnings. thanks.
Question by oldmanbeefjerky | last reply
Greetings, I am fairly new to electronics, and have mostly worked with DC circuits so far. I have an AC fan I want to use to make a carbon filtered ventilation fan for my soldering station. I can do this with a DC circuit and DC fan, but when researching how to do it with an AC fan I came up with more questions than I started with... The fan I have is a Nidec TA450AC model A30122-10. It is about 5x5x1.5 inches, and rated for 115VAC, 50/60Hz, .26/.21A. I found data on the fan here: http://http://www.nidecpg.com/fanpdfs/ta450ac.pdf In my research so far it seems there might be three solutions: 1> Use a TRIAC/DIAC circuit, 2> Use a MOSFET circuit or 3> Use a microcontroller/PWM circuit. There seem to be benefits/drawbacks to each method, and I don't know which method to choose, or even if I'm headed in the right direction.. I don't know how to tell if the fan is single-phase, triple-phase, induction... ugh. I am looking for an inexpensive solution I can build myself, that performs well. Can anyone help me find the right solution for my application? Or at least point me in the right direction? Thanks much, doval
Topic by d0val | last reply
Year after year the topic "I have a fish tank" seems to go more out of control. What was once a hobby just to have some fish can now be a design feature both in your home and inside the tank. Realistic looking lasdscapes, optical illusions that make you think the tank is much bigger and the list goes on. But one thing that now always pops up is the must have thing of UV filtration. Or to be precise: UV-C sterilisation! Now, if we trust Wiki and our big water suppliers then UV-C will literally kill anything alive that comes into contact with. So of course it would be a good thing to have for your tank - or not? UV-C is very dangerous for your eyesight and quite harmful for your skin! Looking into a proper UV-C lamp without protection means you can go blind! Even good sunglasses might not have enough protection in the UV-C range, so only use them for additional protection but never without and glass between you and the lamp! Don't be a fool! Treat UV-C seriously! You would not look into the full sun with your sunglasses and would not expose your eyes or skin to a powerful laser, UV-C is to be treated the same way! Let's start by using some boring text to explain the concept a little bit. On a large scale special and quite powerful systems are used to treat our drinking or pool water. Here special UV-C lights with a wavelenghts of 260nm or below are used to shine through the water passing by. There are two key factors here. a) the wavelenght b) the water flow rate and the corresponding time the water is in contact with the UV light To ensure all bacteria, viruses, algae and other harmful organics are dead the water must circulate for long enough so even the last water molecule had a few seconds of exposure. All this only works good with "crystal clear" water for obvious reasons as otherwise the UV has to be even more powerful to pass through. Single cell organisms literally crack into pieces similar to being exposed to gamma rays, more complex cells like algae have their cell membranes damages and the DNA suffers as well causing reproduction loss and early death. Even some chemicals break down, most importantly here chlorine based substances. Differences within the UV-C range! If you bothered to check Wiki about the topic of UV-C you will already know that only certain wavelengths within this spectrum will actuall be powerful enough to do what we want it to do. And here is the first problem for us hobby users. Most cheaply advertised "sterlisation lamps" you find in places like Ebay are actually totally useless. Stating to be selling a UV-C light to sterilze your water in such a case is still not considered to be fraud though. Simply because it still does what it supposed to do, just very slow and with very little effect. Only the so called "short wave" UV-C range is powerful enough! To avoid loosing business during the times of the biggest hype in 20 years no seller will actuall state the available wavelengths. That means without this info anywhere you can be certain the advertised lamp is of little to no use. Even those advertised to be short wave UV-C might not be the real deal. However, if a decent manufacturer is behind the actual lamp used it is possible to check the datasheet for these performance figures - but again most cheap systems come with no-name lamps inside. Check the prices for a reputable UV-C light with the same lamp fitting, e.g. G23 and you will see it might cost more than your entire system. Ok, you have a poper short wave UV-C lamp or consider getting a canister filter with one in it.... Never, ever test your lamp without proper protection!!!!! UV-C will damage your eye within seconds! If you system or lamp does not provide a viewing port or shine through area then you have to place a piece of glass between you and the light! UV-C won't be able to penetrate normal window glass but will pass through quartz glass. Place the lamp in a box and cover with the glass. How make proper use of UV-C sterilisation... The replacement lights are quite expensive, so let's see how to get the most out of them. As said before exposure is the key factor so the flow rate of the UV system must match tank size and flow rate of your filter system. Canister filters with a build in lamp should be designed to match but I will tell you later what to look for ;) Most of us will prefer to have a in-line system if there is already a good canister filter at work, so I will focus on those and rop in solutions. If you compare in-line system you might notice that some quite small and low power units claim to allow for the same flow rates as for example 40W units. Some are fraud and just want to sell while others use simple physics to make the claim true. A good system will utilise an auger like "ramp" that forces the water to circulate around the tube many times - causing up to ten times longer exposure rates. Others create this sprial effect more like a vortex with some diverters and modified inlets. The later seems to be less efficient though with low power lamps. An in-line system should be on the outlet side of your canister filter so the best quality water will pass through it. A drop in solution should be used alone and without the existing normal filter pump you might have in there. Ok, got it, but how do I actually use it now? Despite common thinking a UV-C system should not run 24/7 like your normal filter. You really only need it to solve problems you should not have in a healthy tank! It is not a magical solution to make your underlaying problems go away ;) Let's start with the most common reason someone buys a UV-C system: An algae or bacterial outbreak causing greenish or milky water. If that developed slowly over a period of weeks then you would be better off to do a good clean of the tank and filter plus a decent water exchange. A few drops of meds will do the rest. And if you constantly get algae growing on your glass, ornaments and plants then your nutrient levels and water quality is not right anyway and needs a good check. But of course there is also the problem of light - too much for too long and unwanted gree appears everywhere. If in doubt reduce the light power, shade out natural light or reduce the on time for your lights. Having said that we now face the problem of a sudden outbreak after introducing new fish or plants. If you don't have a quarantaine tank chances are that sooner or later you get unwanted or even harmful guest into your tank. Here the UV-C will be beneficial, which is why a canister filter with build in light should have a seperate switch or power supply for the light. After an outbreak or while introducing new life into your tank the UV-C will remove a lot of the things that we don't want to bring along. For new life I leave the light on non stop for a week, that is for a small 4ft tank with 200 liters. To control an outbreak it depends on how bad it is. I assume here you can still see the back of your tank but that the water either appears greenish or slightly milky from bacteria. As a personal thing I prefer to to remove and clean my filter material before treating a severe outbreak. Once done I fill the filter with a mix of activate carbon material and fine filter wool. Reason for this quite simple: The outbreak causing stuff is already in your filter material and will be a constant source of re-infection. And since breaking down all this bad stuff causes even more bad stuff to be produced as biological waste we want to discard it properly once done. Using just fine filter wool and activated carbon also reduces the flow rate bit if compacted ;) Now we can turn on the light and pump and forget about it for a while. It is not recommended to run UV lights on a timer as you want them on all time to prevent short lifespan and have ongoing treatment of the water. Good idea to take a picture at the same of a day from now on to compare and check results. After 3 days the water should definately be clearer, if not then either your filter material is packed too losse or the lamp is no good. Once the water appears to be clear do a readin test - take a newspaper behind the tank and check if the text is clear - blurry means the water is still not clean. You will reach a point where the water quality will not further improve as much as in the days before. This is the time where you discard or clean out to dry your filter material and put the original stuff back in. The activated carbon should be discarded of course. You cleaned filter material will now need a certain time to grow enough good bacteria to go back to the old performance. During this time you should still leave the light on. In most cases with enough fish and plants in the tank a week should be sufficient. After that you can leave the light off and keep the tank fit and healthy. Special case: Algae everywhere! Especially after getting a new plant you can end up with quite pesty algae growth. Be it these long ghost hair types or in a bad case the black stuff growing on plants, ornaments and the glass. I have even seen tanks with algae covering the entire bottom of the tank causing the gravel to look like carpet. Here I can only advise to set up a quarantaine tank for your fish. Then remove all infested material for manual removal and cleaning. Infested plants should be cut clean and what can be boiled should be boiled in water for a few minutes. Now start scrubbing in the tank with ongoing water replacements. I prefer to let everything settle over night without any bubbler or pump running. This way I can suck up a lot of sediment the next day. If you can remove all plants and fish you can now use hydrogen peroxide and add it to your tank water. But this is only feasable for small desktop tanks. Before using the UV as above to cure an outbreak you should consider all water one last time. Allow at least 2 weeks with ongoing water checks before adding plants back in and another week before placing your fish back in the tank. The week before adding fish should be used to monitor the plats for any signs of algae you might have missed - if you find any remove it! A week after the fish is back in you can turn off the UV light. Underwater UV-C light!? In most online stores you will find quite cheap UV lights to be advertised as underwater or in tank use. Although it might sound tempting you should be well aware of the dangers of using them. The glass of your tank will block the harmfull UV rays but the water surface won't, so either don't ever look at it or use proper sunglasses with real UV protection. Apart from the dangers to you these lamps are not just cheap in price but also cheaply produced. That means there is no way of telling how much or how little UV-C is produced. If they are good then you still need to know in what type of tank setup you can use them. As plants can tolerate a bit of UV a placement as far away from the nearest plant should do, especially if you can place a bubble wall betwenn light and plants. The fish is another thing as some seem to be unaware of the danger in their tank. This means they can get too close to the light but I have not found any articles explaining how harmful UV-C is to fish or their eyesight. I guess once your fish starts to bounce into everything you know... ;) My advise is to stay away from the idea of hanging a UV-C lamp in your tank, the risk for you and your tank is just not justified. If you need to go cheap then get two or thre of these lamps so you have spares. But use them externally ;) Meaning: Take a UV proof plastic container of small size and place the light in there. To be really safe tape the lid and all holes for the hoses with black tape. Place the container above the water level of your tank and if you only have an internal filter pump push a suitable sized hose into the outlet to feed into you canister. Check how high you pump can make it and place the outlet or overflow slightly below this level. When to change the light? If you made it all the way down here then you might already had the benefit of using light to "cure" your tank. Now we are faced with the high replacement cost for the lamp itself. Ususally only flouroscent tubes are used. It is always good to check after purchase what type of lamp and manufacturer (if there is one) was used. In some cases the system itself is like an inkjet printer: Just a cheap way to make you buy the consumables. Let's say you new in-line filter was priced at $100 to have a nice round number, some are cheaper some much more expensive. The lamp used might be an exotic type and not even be available easy, so before you buy your system check where you can get spares, not just the lamp of course. A replacement lamp can be as ceap as 20 bucks or cost even more than your system if you need to order it elsewhere. The quartz glass sleeve can break too meaning you then need a lamp and cylinder. Going with a reputable brand and paying a bit more certainly helps to get spares in the future. Let's just assume you either got your system in bulk due to the price of replacement lamps or can get them at a reasonable price. UV-C lamps are not like your normal flouroscent light tubes you have around or maybe even on top of your tank. Consider them like the tubes used in the now unhealthy tanning beds. After a certain amount of time they no longer produce enough of the short wave UV light that we need. As you can't see it and most of us won't have the means to specifically measure it we have to trust manufacturers recommendations. For most good brands the numbers are the same: 8000 hours max. Considering the costs it does make sense to keep written track of the usage. Not too hard since we won't use them like normal lights but instead have them on for a week or more without turning them off. I recommend to have a replacement at hand long before you need it. A lamp can fail premature, crack or simply burn out. The 8000 hours are based on 24 hour usage, so one day on, one day off. This could mean for us the lifetime can be slightly longer but I would not go over 9000 hours. As a rule of thumb: If the water does not show good signs of getting clear on day thre the lamp is due.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer" -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Found an old topic that someone reactivated with a reply, so I though I do a new one to make it easier. "Moonshine" can be as tasty as any good spirit from the shops. I have done a few liters back in my days... There are a few things to consider right from the start though. What type of sugar is used, e.g. fruits, corn, wheat, potatoes or plain sugar and water. Equally important is the yeast, some prefer natural fermantation, others use baker's yeast, most prefer dedicated yeasts for wine. Even the water used plays a role in the final taste!Hygine is another thing that many people overlook or neglect. Anything that can grow in a warm and sweet enviroment will grow rapidly! That means if your yeast is not good or fast enough, other cultures can take over and sometimes totally change the outcome and quality. In some cases, like with fruits to the better but usually to the worse. Imagine you want to bake a nice cake with vanilla in it. But since your vanilla stick is already quite old and you stored it together with your garden herbs in one jar.... You get the idea of taste I hope ;) Just go from start to finnish like you would prepare chicken meat together with fish - keep it clean, keep it healthy.The still.... Now, if you trust some old blokes doing moonshine since they were kids then it all sounds so easy. But for the hobby brewer there are now tons of options available. Basic pot stills you can put on your stove, electric ones that are basically just an electric boiler with a cooling tube, tower models with several levels of control or the good old "reflux" still in copper. Why is it important to know your way around stills? Again, if you ask a cook then he will tell you why he uses a certain pot for certain dishes or why he won't work with certain materials. Sometimes it is for taste or ease of handling, often just preference. Lets check the main differences in material. We have the modern stainless steel and the classic copper. Stainless steel is easy to clean, won't affect the taste and won't cause any chemical reactions that would alter the taste of your product. That is true only if you trust the manufacturers ;) To compensate for the problems I will explain in a bit they use all sorts of gadgets. I call them brewing helpers and explain them in a bit. Copper on the other hand is now quite expensive and also deemed to be a pain to clean and sanitise. To be honest: how hard it is to clean a still only depends on the design. If you can seperate it into nice straight pieces with good access you can clean anything. But copper was and still is the prefered option for drinking vessels and cookware in a lot of cultures - and it is coming back into our kitchens now as well. Why is that then? Copper has natural sanitising abilities but also reacts with a lot of chemicals. And since copper is considered to be a "good" metal, these reactions usually happen only directly on the copper. Meaning all reaction products stay on the copper as well. Work with fruits or potatoes and a copper still can look dark black and really ugly when done. Do the same in a steel still and then compare the taste ;) Copper produces a far better taste! Especially sufur based compounds react strongly with the copper but also anything causing bad smells or tastes is reduced big time. To flux, reflux not not to flux at all!? A basic still heats the mesh to a set temperature, a cooling coil or similar lets the steam condensate and the alcohol (and everything else) drips out. More complex models have a more tower like appearance and with that allow for a better temperature control. Here the steam will cool down in the tower and at the right height you have the outlet. Brings a much more refined product. The best is still the reflux still however. Here the steam is allowed to travel further and cool down completely. Only a fraction is allowed to come out while the rest runs back down into the heated pot. From first to last model the quality, taste and purity improve. Lets take a closer look on what actually happens inside a still:Once the mix is hot enough that something can turn into a vapor or gas form it will try to escape. That is why we usually discard the first "head" coming out - it contains the most methanol for starters but also the worst of tastes. Again more on heads and tails later ;)In a simple still all steam produced is now turned back into a liquid.One reason why the alcohol concentrations is quite low, around 40%.But also the reason for the low quality taste that can happen.Even with a generous amount of head removed literally everything that is in the opt ends up in the spirit.A good temperature control is a must have and the less deviation the better.And as with all pots running low, once you are low enough all impurities left in your mesh will be concentrated.If the bottom now gets too hot they release unwanted tastes...We skip the tower models and go right to the reflux as the later is just better and includes all there is to say about the tower models anyway.At least on a hobby level a reflux still already starts with a quite tall boiling vessel.It just allows a better and more evenly heating of the mesh inside.While the bottom part is hotter than the top currents form that constantly mix what is inside.The heat is controlled so there is no real boiling, in the best option so that no part of the pot will go over 85° C.When all is hot enough so the first alcohol could run out the system is actually still closed.All vapour has to run back down the tower - which is why some towers even come with cooling fins...As a result all things with a low boiling point will stay in the tower as vapor and once the still is opened they come out first.The heads can be much smaller then too ;)Since the outlet is set at a suitable height and is naturally cooler than the steam, a lot of steam will condense above the outlet.Much more below it and only a fraction is collected to run to the outlet.That means that once the system has reached stable temps throughout that the tower is filled with ethanol vapour only.And since it is constantly re-boiled and runs back down and up all that comes out is already at quite high concentrations.With a good setup as high as 95% vol.It also means that you can have a great level of control about what exactly ends in your ethanol.Depending on how high the outlet is located a different amount of things that can either bond with ethanol or have a similar boiling temperature will be collected.Sole reason why most simple pot stills are designed to work with sugar and clean water only...When working with fruits as a base you often want quite a lot of the flavours and tastes preserved.Only experience and trying will get you tot he sweet spot where the alcohol content is just right and all wanted flavours are included.Go too high with your quality and the alcohol is too pure, go too low and the taste is bad...Which of course brings us back to why you should take your time before the cooking starts!I know far too many people who have no patience when it comes to the end of fermantation.Some yeast might be still active, far too much sugar left over in the mesh or just not enough care in general...You want most if not all of the sugar gone and used.What is not dead in terms of yeast needs to be dormant due to the alcohol concentration.And that can be the tricky part already!You see, once yeast dies off quickly due to the alcohol only the strong survive.In some cases, especially if you re-use your leftovers often, these few can still be active at over 20% of alcohol volume in the mix.The best option is to have a spare fridge and to put the entire container or drum in there.Let it sit cold for a few days, the yeast goes dormant, all sediments settly down to the bottom as no CO2 is produced anymore.Once all is really nice and clear use a hose or similar to remove the clear content only!Be careful here and once the levels are low use a seperate container to drain off!Take out what you can and if in doubt let what you take settle again for a day or two.Doing this time consuming step will make sure you only boil up what brings you the good stuff.On the other hand, when using potatoes, fruits or such you might have to press the liquid out and and add that to what you drained off already.I prefer to do this first and just put it back into the big drum again to let it all settle together.Ok, you only use sugar anyway but what comes out just does not taste or smell right...Would also mean you only use a basic still...As mentioned before the heads are what contains all the nasties.There are ways to actually measure if there is methanol present but for what we do now this is not so important.When the dripping start use shot glasses or such to catch it.Preferably while watching it ;)Smell what it is the glass when you put the next one under.The first glass should smell quite bad anyways.Quickly the smell in the glasses will change to something more "pure" and alcohol like - now start collecting for use.With a simple but good controlled still you will see the flow increases and levels out at some point.When the volume starts to go down your tails start.It is good practise to now use a seperate collecting vessel for the rest until what comes to fully discard.At some point you will notice the difference between just enough and really good temperature control.In a really good system the flow will go down to a slow drip or even stop.While in a dirt simple one the flow will just slow down for a while and then suddenly start running again.This running happens when the remainig water starts boiling...Keep smelling what comes out and once the taste or smell changes noticably again use a different container to collet what comes out. - This is you first tail collection.What comes out until the smell and taste go bad is your second tail collection - now you can turn your still off for a while.Let all what you collected cool down to room temperature is not already.Check what you collected from the heads, helps to have small jars for this ;)From start to last the smell should get better.If the last two or three collections smeel somehow interesting then add them to your main collection.Smell the first tail collection again - it should not be that bad anymore, especially if you let it cool down slightly open.Especially when working with fruits you might to add quite a bit of this to your main collection.If only sugar was used just move on to the last tail collection.In case you still don't like the smell mix the tail collection together and keep in a seperate and sealed vessel.Those tail collections can then later be used to destill them again (with more tails from other runs) to get a decent cleaning alcohol or something that might still be worth adding in small amounts for a better overall taste.However for sugar only mixes it can be considered to be for cleaning purposes only.What you have now is little waste and a lot of almost good alcohol.It still contains more or less amounts of unwanted things that mainly come from the yeast and their by-products.To "clean" you alcohol the best option is to destill it again - it will also increase the concentration quite a bit.Best option here is to use properly filtered and prefeably demineralised water to get back to a full fill of the still.If your still is quite small and what you collected would make for one or two full fills then go for it.Be warned though that you should not fill it up to the full mark, a bit under is better as the mix now will boil far quicker and more violent.Personally I prefer to have the alcohol conectration in the still at around 205% only.As we already discarded the worst of the worst in the heads during our first run only a tiny amount, like half a shot glass should be too bad in terms of taste and smell.Whatever comes after shall be fine.Again, once the tails start try to be carefull and if you can slow things down a notch.You will see a quite destinct reduction in the flow rate once the tails start - use a new container right away.The alcohol concentration should now drop quickly too as another indicator.If you want just pure tasting alcohol add what you comes out from this point to your tails container for later use as you don't want to drink it.Again, for fruits and potatoes you might want to keep the first bit of the collected tails.You alcohol concentration should now be already over 75% even if a basic still was used.The overall volume you collected will be lower accordingly of course - so don't be too disappointed by the liters you got from the second run.In a perfect world you now would use some nice barrel and let your creation age...But since we do moonshine...There is a chance that even after two runs you still taste and smell things you don't want or like.So if in doubt do it all again and get to 90 or more percent...Either way the final stuff should be now either watered down (filtered and clean of course) to the desired level.How to further improve on the outcome....There are little helpers along the way to get far bette results than without using them.If you check ready to go kits then they often contain specialised yest strains, a carbon mix and some "clearing aids".The yeast part is obvious, although I do prefer life prt wine yeast anyway.Carbon or activated charcoal is used to bind some of the bad odors and tastes the yeast produces.Keep in mind they are designed to work together, unlike using proper wine making cultures.Using power yeasts without carbon always results in a low quality.The clearing aids actually change the acidity levels and cause some things to mineralise or otherwise change so they settle to the ground.But they mainly make sure the yeast is dead.If you only use sugar then these kits are your easiest option and just follow their instructions.For fruits or anything else however you might want to try the slow route and use actual wine making yeasts for a change ;)And of course here we do not use carbon at all as we actually want to keep the taste of waht we use.We already had the proper way of getting the mesh to settle down, so that bit is clear.For sugar only you can now try to run your creation through activated charcaol or just add it and mix it.Let it sit and mix again for a few days.You do not need to filter the black stuff out, just drain it carefully and run the last bit through a coffee filter.Nothing will end in your destilled product.Inside the still you can use ceramic bioling thingies of all sorts.They provide a surface for water or mix to boil on instead of just the bottom.If you can't them for a good price then just use the stuff for aquarium filters ;)As said earlier too, copper is good but most modern stills are made from steel.If you can't find any copper wool pot cleaners you can cut some plumbing pipe into small sections.Inside the boiling vessel they will quickly turn brownish black while collecting bad things.Cleaning is easy with some cirtic acid/delimer/coffee machine cleaner...For a tower or reflux still it really helps to have these copper pads or wool inside for a far greater surface area to aid condensation and slow down the run off.I know how hard it is to get the stuff these days so if no other option use stainless steel ones and only loose the benefit of more cleaning through chemical reactions.Tools that come in handy....Monitoring the sugar and alcohol level to know when the mesh is right is quite obvious.What might not be is that you can correct bad level towards the end of fermentation.Yeast already dying slowly but far too much sugar left? Just add luke warm water to lover the alcohol conectration...Yeast going dormant with low alcohol levels? The sugar might be out so chack and if in doubt add some more.A good stir will help the remaining yeast to get more active in a day or two.So these little glass measuring tools should be put to good use from the start.During the destillation a purpose made overflow pipe to hold your alcohol tester is extremly helpful!The destilled liquid goes in through a pipe or hose at the bottom of the pipe.The bottom is closed, the top open to allow to drop the alcohol tester inside.Overflow or outlet should be just under the rim.During your run you can now see directly how the alcohol content changes.It will stabilse once the heads are finnished and get a slight rise just before it drops during the tails section.Improving basic desing of a basic still...Once you are done with a dead simple pot still and buy a reflux or tower model you might wonder why you did not build one yourself.What looked good on the pics and in the shop turns out to be still a bit away from perfect.The outlet might not have any flow control or is located to low/high.The vital overpressure protection might be missing and the thing sometimes runs out like a garden hose...For the later you can slavage some old pressure cooker and use the weight with the screw in counterpart in the lid ;)A simple hole in the top with flat weight on it works too, I used an old rubber plug from my bathtub one (could not find the purpose made one in time).For the outlet you can cheat a bit ;)Wrapping the tower with some insulating material improves on the heat loss - this helps if the still struggles to heat enough to provide a proper flow rate.Cooling the tower with wet towels, running water or similar well help on hot days or if the outlet is located reall high with little chance to provide decent condensation in the lower parts.How to cheat with the barrel....No matter if you just run with sugar or if you prefern corn, wheat, fruits....For some spirits good taste means good age.And well, good age for commercial spirits usually happens by resting in wooden drums.Oak, white oak, red gum and several other types of wood are used.Some small destilleries even use only locally available wood and won't even tell you which tree it was...Means we have a few chocices if we don't want to stick to the well known classics.But how do we make a barrel ?A good one is not just made from any old wood - the wood needs to be of the right age and moisture.To keep it simple just treat it like your firewood and let it rest for the same time.A good barrel is often "charred" - burnt with a flame or by rolling it with burning charcoal inside.This does two imortant things:1: It provides charcoal to bind remaining bad stuff.2: It releases some sugars from the wood plus resins and othe stuff.Both are an essential part of the final product and aging process!Now it becomes clear why a good sprit cost more than vodka...Using a neutral vessel like glass to age your spirit is one thing, preparing the wood the right way another...You see, size matters here in several ways.Big chunks provide a decent surface are without causing too much debris.The also provide more tannins for the color and more resins and sugar.Smaller chunks provide more charcaol for a higher level or binding impurities.But both will soak up far more alcohol than the correspong barrel size would!Obviously, if you are on a small scale on only got about 5 liters of alcohol to deal with loosing much is bad.The best way to char the wood IMHO is inside a clsed can or steel box.Just a small vent hole and a lot of turning with the right eye for when the wood is charred enough to be black and sealed.Opinions vary here but I use about a cup full of wood per 5 liters of alcohol at around 93% vol.Some goes for the storage, apart from dark some can't really agree here.Tossing and turning is as much prefered as undisturbed resting - take your own pick.The thig I do differently after the filtering off is to re-use the wood that is soaked.It goes into a freezer bag until the next run of the still and then the frozen wood is just added to the second still run to get back the alcohol in it, plus some nice taste and smell :)
Topic by Downunder35m
Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Yesterday we looked at the Top 50 commenters for 2008 and today we'll be looking at the numbers for the top 50 Instructables of 2008. Since there's no one way of declaring a list of Instructables, we created three top 50 lists. These cover Instructables in order of rating, pageviews, and comments. Instructables on these lists were all published in 2008.Let's go to the graphs and charts!Top 50 Instructables: Pageviews Instructable Views 1 Body-Mod: Elf Ears 347738 2 Use your laptop as an Xbox/Xbox 360 "Wireless Adapter" on Windows XP/Vista, and Mac OSX 220780 3 Fix the Red Ring of Death! (without towels!) 177285 4 Laser cutter, start slicing stuff for under 50 dollars 159647 5 Run Backups on any Wii Without a Modchip 159408 6 How to build a 72Volt electric motorcycle 159261 7 How to make out 145713 8 Inverted Bookshelf 137198 9 Munny Speakers 124736 10 Awesome led cube 118293 11 Firefox Pranks! 117449 12 How to make an Iron Man Arc Reactor 116481 13 How to French Kiss 115958 14 How To: Make Bath Bombs 108287 15 Gift Ideas 107914 16 DIY USB "Hard Drive" 96588 17 Safely Shaving Your Pubic Hair 96144 18 WinXP Overhaul Guide: How to make it look like Vista, run like lightning, and stay productive, fast & smooth 94980 19 Laser Tattoo 94705 20 DIY Vinyl Wall Art 92752 21 How to refill a "disposable" Brita brand water pitcher filter with activated carbon. 89724 22 Make your own Roll-Up Keyboard 89558 23 Hidden USB Storage 86430 24 how to add EL wire to a coat or other garment 84340 25 Build a 60 Watt Solar Panel 82286 26 Grow a square watermelon 82275 27 LeGummies brick shaped gummy candies 81368 28 USB 80875 29 How to remove most of the seeds when cutting up a watermelon 80822 30 How to Make a TRON Style Lamp: The MADYLIGHT 80281 31 LED Cube 4x4x4 78936 32 Covert Spy Sunglasses 78633 33 Build a water mortar 77090 34 Super Nightvision Headset Hack! 76634 35 A better laptop stand for bed 76101 36 Amazing plasma globe tricks that you never knew before!!! 74842 37 How to get a Free Itunes Account (No Credit Card Needed) 74490 38 Make an iPod Video Projector 74026 39 Homemade Gifts 73478 40 Lasers 73242 41 Remote shutter trigger for Digital Cameras 72911 42 Ergonomic Laptop Stand Made From a Coat Hanger 72321 43 MAKE A HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY IN 5 MINUTES 71744 44 Protect Your Home with Laserbeams! 71387 45 Iron Man Helmet 71358 46 Get Big Money for Dead Batteries 70261 47 How to Put on a Condom 69805 48 How to make an Iron Man Mask 69617 49 How to build a 96-Volt Electric Motorcycle 68924 50 Nintendo Lunchbox 68164 Top 50 Instructables: Ratings Instructable Rating 1 Build A Plasma Speaker 4.64 2 Build A Net Gun 4.62 3 Wall-E Robot 4.60 4 Sew your own Instructables Robot Plushie! 4.60 5 How to Make a Portable Game System 4.54 6 Build Your Own Butler Robot!!! - Tutorial,Photos, and Video 4.54 7 Electromagnetic Floater 4.52 8 LED Cube 4x4x4 4.50 9 LeGummies brick shaped gummy candies 4.49 10 DIY Vinyl Wall Art 4.49 11 5-minute Chocolate Cake 4.48 12 When a Phillips is not a Phillips! 4.48 13 Airgun with eXplosive air-Release Valve 4.47 14 How to Build a Robot - The BeetleBot v2 ( Revisited ) 4.45 15 How to Start a Business 4.45 16 Gandhi: 17' Tall Cardboard Avatar 4.44 17 turn signal biking jacket 4.44 18 Hidden USB Storage 4.44 19 Cyber/Steampunk Futuresque Sci-Fi Hand Gun 4.43 20 LED Chess Set 4.41 21 Build your own Electric Car! 4.41 22 LCS-1M - A Full-Featured, Low-Cost Hobby Oscilloscope 4.40 23 Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker! 4.39 24 Lego USB Stick 4.38 25 MAKE A PILLAR WITH A DECORATIVE CAPITOL AND BASE 4.38 26 EGG FLOWER VASE 4.38 27 Aliens Powerloader Halloween Costume 4.38 28 Munny Speakers 4.37 29 Giant 100mm LED 4.37 30 Coilgun Handgun 4.37 31 How to Thank Instructables 4.36 32 Guitar Tube Amp 4.36 33 How to get a Tshirt for GoodHart 4.34 34 Creepy Cobweb Shooter! 4.34 35 Grow Your Own Bioluminescent Algae 4.32 36 How to make a Portal Gun 4.31 37 how to add EL wire to a coat or other garment 4.30 38 Duct Tape Messenger Bag + Hardware 4.30 39 Firearm Safety: The "do's" and "don'ts" of enjoying guns safely. 4.29 40 The Stirling Engine, absorb energy from candles, coffee, and more! 4.29 41 Recycle Old Light Bulb 4.28 42 USB Batman Spotlight 4.28 43 Coffee table upgrade! 4.27 44 Steampunk Dystopian Sniper Rifle (Mercury Bow) 4.27 45 Building Small Robots: Making One Cubic Inch Micro-Sumo Robots and Smaller 4.27 46 How to grow flowers on a military base in Iraq 4.26 47 How to make your own LED lightbulbs 4.26 48 Iron Man Helmet 4.25 49 Cardboard/Fiberglass Halo 3 inspired Master Chief Costume 4.25 50 Build Halo Armor 4.25 Top 50 Instructables: Comments Instructable Comments 1 Build a World's Smallest Electronic Shocker! 812 2 Knex Heavy Cannon 645 3 Awesome led cube 637 4 Simple Xbox 360 Rapid Fire Mod 591 5 Build A Plasma Speaker 494 6 DD-27 V2.75 compact AST rifle 454 7 WinXP Overhaul Guide: How to make it look like Vista, run like lightning, and stay productive, fast & smooth 453 8 The accidental pocket jet engine... 427 9 Scavenge free electronics, food, and help the environment 400 10 How to make your PSP "Better" or how to have more fun on a Sony PSP 379 11 Laser Tattoo 376 12 Amazing plasma globe tricks that you never knew before!!! 376 13 DSman195276's sidearm --updated-- v1.5 is here! 371 14 MAKE A HIGH VOLTAGE SUPPLY IN 5 MINUTES 363 15 Wall-E Robot 352 16 Knex Heavy Cannon v5 - Handheld 342 17 Fix the Red Ring of Death! (without towels!) 341 18 How to Build a Time Machine (Vortex Distortion Space and Time Dilating Device) 340 19 Knex Heavy Cannon v2 - Mini 339 20 How to get a Tshirt for GoodHart 338 21 Run Backups on any Wii Without a Modchip 336 22 Make A Water Leyden Jar 331 23 Park 52 knex sniper 327 24 Build a simple Marx Generator 323 25 Knex Guinea Pig Trap 318 26 TRUELY semi-auto knex gun 315 27 L96 308 28 How to Build a Knife 307 29 Pineapplebob's Sniper Rifle 306 30 True Trigger, 10 Round, Auto-Loading, Knex Concept Rifle 299 31 Fire Shaving 290 32 DJ Radio's knex SPEC-9 sniper rifle 285 33 How to UPGRADE from Vista to Windows XP on an Acer laptop 283 34 How to dodge a draft 279 35 Protect Your Home with Laserbeams! 279 36 Hidden USB Storage 277 37 Knex Compact AST Pistol 276 38 Cyber/Steampunk Futuresque Sci-Fi Hand Gun 276 39 Steampunk Dystopian Sniper Rifle (Mercury Bow) 275 40 Pocket sized survival kit 274 41 Knex Pistol "TDS" With Simple Slide Action *Updated as of 8/26/08* 271 42 Use your laptop as an Xbox/Xbox 360 "Wireless Adapter" on Windows XP/Vista, and Mac OSX 269 43 Body-Mod: Elf Ears 266 44 Knex M4 Carbine (True Trigger) 257 45 How to make a Portal Gun 255 46 DSman195276's sniper rifle 254 47 Reaper Crossbow 254 48 fully automatic knex gun (UPDATED) 252 49 Build your own computer 252 50 LeGummies brick shaped gummy candies 252
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply