Looking for instructions and information for adjustment methods on 2gc choke pull off
Topic by flemingd61 | last reply
AENL wisconsin motor 9.2 hp. 163e Zenith Carburetor. Everything has been rebuilt. I did most of the work myself. I started it for the first time, it fired right up. Then stopped after a minute. I noticed it was flooding...badly. fuel was leaking out of the carburetor by the intake. I then pulled the cord a couple more times and now it is leaking gas through the exhaust port. What happened? Float to high? I set it to the gauge provide by the carb kit. It was pretty close to right on. What next?
Question by oil_derrick | last reply
It will fit my intake I know that for sure its a 4 barrel quadrajet Originally on 1967 chevy 397,427 and 1967 pontiac 327,400,427 its a 4mv f9 I'm trying to put a motor together for my camero and don't have much money and have lil time to get it done the ppl who run my apt say to at least make it move I'm waiting on other parts so i can't just put it on and see eventually i plan to put an eddlbrock on it but that is prolly years away unless this carb works really well
Question by darkmickey | last reply
I was wondering if it would be possible to put a different era carburetor on a 1952 Briggs and Stratton model N? The current carburetor is shot and don't want to shell out $100 for a NOS carburetor. So my thought was putting a different era carburetor on it but din't know if it would would work or if it is a good idea?
Question by Ghost Wolf | last reply
I just worked on a Husqvarna 142 chainsaw for a friend. Yes, there are openings in the side of the machine so the Low and High carburetor screws can be adjusted, but a special tool is required, or parts need to be removed from the saw so the screw shanks can be grasped with a pair of needle nose pliers. A special tool is svailable for about $6 US. It fits over the longitudinal ridges on the upper part of the screw shank. I discovered the right size of semi-rigid plastic tubing makes an effective adjustment tool. Just cut a length three or four inches long. Push one end onto the desired screw shank and turn to adjust. The tubing is rigid enough that it does not twist, but turns the screw needing adjustment.
Topic by Phil B | last reply
My dad recently purchased a '79 Datsun sedan and we have been trying to make it run for a while, it runs, but it uses a quart jar of gas every 2 minutes of idling, also, we have taken the Carburetor apart and we can get it back together, however we are unsure which is the primary, and which is the secondary fuel jet, as they both have differently sized openings. Thanks for the help.
Question by An Villain | last reply
The bottom of the carburetor on my motorbike-now-go kart engine has a fuel outlet with a needle pin for adjustment. can this be blocked up?....is it needed to make the engine work? or does it need as fuel pipe to connect to somewhere?obviously the fuel inlet comes into the carb from the top but this hole comes out the opposite side on the bottom.
Question by N13 | last reply
I'm driving my brother's 1986 Ford F150 4.9 V6. It sat, unused, for about a year before I started usuing it, and he didn't perform any maintanence. Got it running in February and the biggest issue was (and still is) the carburetor. It's functional, but only barely (apparently there was some bolts missing on the breather that weighed it down and stripped some of the bolts on the carburetor). I took it in to the shop, and they did what they could without actually changing out the carburetor (I don't have the money to buy a new one, still). I was told by the mechanic to idle the engine for up to five minutes, depending on the weather, to warm the engine. It's been working okay, as best as can be, but no huge problems. But then the heat riser on the exhaust manifold broke off on Thursday (I borught it back to them to look at, they said the whole manifold would have to be replaced and it'd take 4-5 hours). Again, broke, so can't afford the $500+ they quoted, though they said it'd noisy but okay to drive until then. Then, starting about two days ago, the idling got kind of clunky and it will sometimes stall out if I'm stopped or idling for more than a minute or so. When I'm driving, it's okay, but slowing or stopping it can idle (I know keep one foot on the brakes and the other periodically tapping the gas). I really don't want to go back to those mechanics again (I get the impression that they're taking advantage of me being a girl), and if there's something I can do myself, I'd like to. If there's suggestions or input of any sort, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Question by Kaymrial | last reply
Recently, I have been working on a gas 'vaporizer' that evaporates gas before being fed into an engine. During my short-term experiment, I found that this saves ~70% (+-20% for crudity of measurement.) This works because the vapors will burn more thoroughly and cleanly, leading to higher apparent efficiency. Below is a basic diagram of how the system works. You can see there is a container that is half-full with gas, and a hose goes down with many small holes. As the engine's compression draws a vacuum on the container, air will come up through the holes. As it rises, the gas-air surface area rises dramatically, leading to the vaporization of gas. To further increase the surface area, I also added a felt liner on the inside to allow the gas liquid to rise and evaporate. The final mixture ends up very rich, so to compensate, a 'T' fitting has been added to allow air to mix in with the vapors/fumes. Some valves have also been added to control the air inlet (similar to a 'choke') and the amount fed to the engine (similar to a throttle. In fact, it is possible to use the original throttle or choke as a throttle on the carburetor on my tractor!) The problem is: My original design utilized a plastic folgers coffee can, and the flimsy plastic top was hot glued to a thicker plastic cutout for strength and support. Since most glues will dissolve in gasoline, including hot glue, it could not be used. most did not hold anyway. I also tried JP weld plastic cement and it did not hold at all. I had to trash this build. I did, however, get enough use to run the tractor for several minutes while testing gas use. I found that the tractor used nearly twice as much simply running on gas than the fumes. I did not have the float valve and electric pump hooked up with the prototype. Also the 3/4in housing I used may be a bit constrictive and also seems to get slightly damaged by the gas. It will not be a long-term solution. So I need to redesign the project, and I am thinking of using a 1-3 gallon bucket that is sealed or a gas tank. I need good almost air-tight seals on everything. I am asking for any ideas related to the construction of this device and any tips you may have.
Question by -max- | last reply
I just picked up a branson 5210 2.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner.i will be using it to clean aluminum motorcycle carbs that have been sitting and become encrudded.i have gotten a lot of suggestions as to what sort of home brew recipes work well, i was hoping people around here could tell me what they use or have heardi will be ordering some of the carb cleaning stuff from sharperteks website to compare it to different homebrew recipes. my goal is ease and lack of cost here. thankshttp://i9.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/43/54/91b8_35.JPG
Topic by 666mph | last reply
I have an old moped that I got for cheap and I am trying to fix it up. I replaced the carburetor and the new one is a little bigger even though it is off of another 50cc. It insisted on running extremely lean, but I was able to get the fuel/air mix balanced by putting some foil tape over part of the intake to get more vacuum behind it. It will only run right if the exhaust is on so that it is not lined up perfectly with the exhaust port on the cylinder. If the exhaust is taken off it will start first kick, but if it is lined up the way it should be it will not start. I took it off today and when I put it back on as close to the way it was before it would start but is now running very lean, beyond what I can tune out with the carburetor. If I give it full throttle it bogs and has no power, but it has fair power at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. It also is getting really hot and has absolutely no power once it gets very hot. Yesterday I hat it all just right and it ran with none of these problems except that full throttle was still not where it got full power. Does any one have any ideas about what I have to do to make it run right? Maybe there is no option but careful misalignment of the muffler? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It turns out that the problems were that the muffler was clogged, and that it was running too lean at first, but too rich once it warmed up. Thank you for you suggestions.
Question by Jaycub | last reply
I have a Briggs and Straton Troy Bilt self propel mower. I hit a small stump the other day and the mower cut off. I generally have trouble with the mower not restarting after it runs for a while and gets hot, but he next day fires up and runs fine. After hitting this small stump it almost starts after about 4or5 pulls and then it kicks back like there is too much compression in the firing chamber. It almost pulls the cord out of my hand and a little bit of white smoke comes out of the exhaust. I have checked the supply to the carburetor, cleaned the carburetor, cleaned the plug and check that it's firing. I have not checked the fuel, but I have cut grass several time since the beginning of summer with no problem. What do you think could be the problem? I'm very mechanically included, but I'm a little stumped on this one. Thank you for your help!!
Question by roosterz64 | last reply
Hello, just wondering if anyone could post any links or anything about old oil heaters. Not the pressure fed ignited furnace type, but the gravity fed ones with a simple carburetor. I have one in the garage that originally came from an old railway caboose. The previous owner (5 years ago) used to heat the garage with it but I haven't the foggiest how to clean, light, or maintain the thing. I'm sure if I take it apart I will be able to figure it out, but was just wanting to get and idea of what to do to it to maintain it. Thanks in advance!
Question by Stew2 | last reply
I have a 17.5 hp Tecumseh Lawn Tractor Engine that starts only on Full Choke but dies after 20 seconds or so. After I got fuel going to the cylinder, the carb started to leak fuel. According to the owner, it has never done the before. Here is the link:https://www.amazon.com/640330-640330A-Tecumseh-Carburetor-Solenoid/dp/B00LRTPGDE This is the same carb that's on it. Please, I need help ASAP anything would be helpful!
Question by PowderRiderRepair | last reply
Hi. I bought a 50 cc scooter that was sitting for some time. It's 2008 model and it had around 400 km when I got it. That's pretty low in my opinion. Well at first it was running fine. I mad around 100 km on the first day. Well the second day it didn't start. Thankfully my friend helped me and he said that my carburetor is dirty. He celaned it and scooter started up. I made around 60km on the same day with no problem. In the morning the next day my scooter wouldn't start. I tried to do the same as him. I cleaned carburetor and fuel filter but scooter still wouldn't start. It doesn't start electrically or kick start. It's like 5th day and my scooter still won't start. What happens when i turn it on: - sometimes it sounds just like a dc motor spinning but nothing happens (there is no cranking sound) - usually it makes cranking sounds but doesn't start - when I let it sit for a while (for 30min, 1h, day ...) it makes a sound like it almost started up but then dies Thank you all for help! I would like to apologize for my lack of english words in engines and bikes field (not a native english speaker and I'm not specialized in those fields).
Question by matijalazic | last reply