Macaulay foundry is available for short run and one off castings in resin, fiberglass, aluminum, brass and iron. Please check us out at www.themacaulayfoundry.com or see us at www.youtube.com/macaulayman
Topic by macaulayman | last reply
I want to fabricate and cast crystals to then cast in glass. I've done glass casting before, but not much mold making. If I have a wax positive, I can melt it out of the plaster/silica mold so it doesn't have to be a 2-part mold as long as there aren't any undercuts, which there won't be. My question is how can I fabricate and then cast crystals to then cast in wax to make my glass mold? I'd like to work with silicone since it is flexible and then I won't have to make a 2-part mold. I thought about cutting foam to make the crystals, but I want the edges to be very smooth so that the glass casts look like crystals. I also thought about carving glycerine soap and casting that, but not sure how it would hold up to being cast with any flexible mold-making materials like silicone. Any advice?
Question by shortone | last reply
Discovery and Objective Productions UK are seeking a HOST with a strong science background (B.A. minimum) for DANGERMAN, a documentary-style reality series that replicates extraordinary stunts performed by daredevils, stuntmen and showmen and explains the scientific principles that make the most amazing feats possible. So what do you say? Anyone in the mood for some DANGER!?!http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/sci/628816251.html
Topic by Tetranitrate | last reply
Hi Can anyone help this old codger trying his first casting please. What I am trying to make is an aluminium block, 150mm square by 52mm thick with a 100mm hole in the centre, hopefully with a decent finish as I am short on finishing equipment. I am planning to weld angle iron into a square to make the sides, use a section of 100mm steel tube for the centre hole and tack weld them onto a steel plate to make the mould. I also want to fill the tube to make a disc. Does this this sound feasible please, also will the aluminium, as it shrink as it cools, get stressed by the centre steel tube. When I have poured the aluminimium into the moulds, do I slide a scraper across the top to get a reasonable finish. Many thanks Keith
Topic by axus4 | last reply
Monday foundry is a small jobbing foundry meaning we take in any small work and some larger. if you would like to have a part cast for something just ask ( motor houseings and other motor castings, custom tools, ect castings are NOT machined unless asked for; cost of machineing is almost double the cost of the part, (unless its as simple as drill a hole aka)
Topic by Danielro10
Hello I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying the molds I created to make the cast and carve chocolates in my instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/Carve-an-cast-chocolate-treets/ It means you don't have to go through the pesky business of carving or making our own molds to end up with some fun chocolates.. or you could use something like plaster and end up with some nice casts.
Topic by world of woodcraft | last reply
Hi I want to make a daruma doll. Like in the video. How do you cast pulp into a hollow item? like in the video? Its pretty cool how they make them. ANybody do anything like this? I don't want to papermache with newspaper I want to make it like in the video.
Question by undftdking | last reply
I do not like the factory seasoning on a cast iron skillet I have. Should I season over it or remove the factory black, nasty crap and season on my own from scratch? It's a shame how poorly companies, even good ones like Lodge have such poor quality seasoning on their products.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Question by Fypsigon | last reply
Next weekend, I'll be going on a campout with my boy scout troop. (Nothing new to me). As every year, we will be having a mock "Iron Chef" competition. A charcoal pit will be provided for the cooking, as will some cast iron dutch-ovens. I would like to bring my own fry pan however. I am debating whether to bring a stainless or cast iron. I have both, and am fairly well able to cook with both. (besides my horrible cooking skills.) However, I'd like to see some suggestions, and here some viewpoints on the matter. I am not certain if we will be allowed the use of our propane stoves or not.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
For my woodshop class I am making a cane/"pimpstick" and I am making a custom head for it. I want to cast it in aluminum using the lost wax technique. would normal plaster of paris be a good material to use for the mold? the peice is about 3 cubic inches. I was thinking about having two "fires" one to heat my aluminum and another to heat the mold so it doesnt shatter. Is that workable? P.S. It would be a one use thing so no need for anything expensive. I have literally 10 dollars to spend on this. Thankyou, bud
Question by budhaztm | last reply
Need some ideas:I have an antique wooden chest of drawers. Most of the wooden molding around the top and bottom is long gone, BUT I do have two original sample pieces. They are a pretty intricate design and there is no way I'll find anything like them today. So I thought I'd make a mold and cast some to replace the missing wooden strips. I smeared up the thin wood strips with Vaseline and pressed them into plaster of parís. Well the mold turned out fine, but now I am struggling with what to use for a casting material. I tried plaster of parís, it was to fragile. I tried painters caulk, but it was too flexible and looked like heck. Thought about mixing sawdust and glue, but am pretty sure the texture will be wrong and grainy. It needs to be stain-able so I can make it look like it's wood and semi rigid so I can get it out of the mold. Any suggestions??
Question by john043 | last reply
I'm trying to cast some resin claws for a halloween/convention costume I'm trying to make ( it isn't a Wolverine one .. more a VERY twisted, evil, and blood thirsty Mad Hatter character ) and running into a bit of trouble. I'm following the 5 drops of hardener per 1 oz of resin that is stated on the resin can's instructions. It also says it's supposed to set hard enough to support objects at 40 minutes. I mixed a 2oz batch of resin ( 10 drops of hardener ) and poured it into a rubber latex lined plaster mold that I had sprayed with mold release. I put a bolt down partly into the resin so I can later attach a wire to it and left it alone for about an hour to an hour and a half. I came back to check on it and the bolt was still able to be moved/removed with NO resistance. I figured the mix was bad and threw it out, but noticed it was the consistancy of slime. Did I mess it up and not wait long enough, or did I not add enough hardener or what ? Any suggestions would be great!
Question by Myrr | last reply
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Topic by beserker | last reply
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Topic by beserker | last reply
It is material for making a cast. It is pretty cool stuff. It is applied to warm water and rolled on to the broken appendage. Yet another item I cannot toss..... SO, any ideas for a project, prank, or emergency use would be great.......... to justify keeping it!
Question by onrust | last reply
I have a 3D model that I would like to have printed so I can use it as a cast for a pewter mold. It is a simple pin that I designed in 3DSMax.. Would the cast have to be metal, or is there some plastic/poly that would take the heat of molten pewter? I don't want to have to pay a jeweler to do this, I already have the model in 3D, it seems like it should be easy to print a cast so I can make them myself..
Topic by 3DPiper | last reply
Question by anastasiakariotou | last reply
Hi, we own a collection of the former seals on the West Side Highway, which are made of cast iron. Over the past 2 weeks or so, we're noticed they've begun to decay. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to save, as it would be a shame to let apiece of history go to ruin. Any advice greatly appreciated. They are shown here: http://www.smpub.com/ubb/images/09/nycseals.html
Question by ksterrblanc | last reply
My 6 year old broke his arm on friday night, they can't do a fiberglass cast until tomorrow. I was thinking what if I prewired an ultra bright LED and ask them to wrap it into the cast with just the led poking out. I was thinking I could decorate his cast to look like Buzz Lightyear's arm with a "laser". The wire could come out the top that I could connect a battery pack to so he can turn it on and off. Is this a good idea or not too smart? I'm trying to think of ways to make my son feel a little better about having a cast for 8 weeks.
Topic by tonythemediaguy | last reply
The radiator is an old fashion steam radiator that can't be removed from the room. It is made of cast iron.
I wish to create a life statue/mannequin for my final art project, i had the initial idea of using a manneqin torso and then creating legs/arm/head etc, anyone have any better ideas ? cheers
Question by setha123 | last reply
My kiln is on the fritz, I need to cast a piece but I don't have time to wait for the new kiln to arrive. Does anybody know of any UK companies to whom I can send a carved wax piece and have it cast in precious metal? Thanks in advance.
Question by alexhalford | last reply
Hello, Does anyone know of a clear casting resin that when cured is also machinable? I have an idea for a project that involves encasing objects in resin and then using power tools, milling machines, lathes, etc. to partially expose the object by cutting though it and the casting. Any thoughts on what resin to use and where it can be purchased? Thanks!
Topic by WaffleM | last reply
I'm doing lost wax casting for a glass mold. I'm using parrafin wax to get the shape of it, but I was wondering what i could use to melt the wax out of the plaster of Paris once it's hardened. Also any advice regarding the whole lost wax process would be helpful!
Topic by Ehamby1219 | last reply
I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you
Topic by lsadwdwadw | last reply
I've been trying to find a thorough and detailed introduction to casting in Bondo for a while but have found nothing definitive. Could someone make a beginners guide for using Bondo to make replicas and casts w/ Pictures?
Topic by kojimagtr | last reply
Hullo, just had a call from my mate who wants to do abit of pewter casting, now he had a very specific question about molds and the silicone to use, I had a look round but no one mentions a particular sort, I thought all silicone is silicone ... but decided to bring the question to the experts To make a silicone mold, for pewter casting, what sort of silicone should my friend use? He shall be making a belt buckle from what i gather. Thanks chaps Biggsy
Topic by Biggsy | last reply
Hi. I'm pretty new to delft clay casting. I make my models out of sculpey clay.2 problems I'm having: 1: sometimes the clay sticks to the model in the fine details (small letters, curves, etc) 2: takes SEVERAL attempts to get a good pour to fill the mold. I'm making several air holes and a pretty good size pour gate/channel. Any advice? Thanks
Question by bdanielpa2019 | last reply
Is there any reliant and consist way to create high RPM gears using 3D prints? What I had planned to do is 3D print some gears out, make silicon molds out of them and then pouring wax in the silicon molds. I then would put the wax into sand and then pour molten aluminum into it. To me, it sounds good in theory but I thought somebody else might have tried making PLA 3D prints into metal.
Topic by rexdino5 | last reply
I want to reproduce a bit of jewellery I have designed in pewter by using a 2-part RTV silicone mould. By all accounts it is possible but I've run into some problems when sourcing materials. Most high temperature silicones I have come across state a maximum temperature of 250°C, But pewter has a melting point of around 280°C. My feeling is that the mould itself will most likely never actually reach 280°C and will probably only be above 250°C for a short period of time. But I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this and could verify for me. Also as I'm new to the whole process, any other tips are welcomed. This is the high temp silicone I'm currently looking at. Thanks, -Tom
Topic by madmanmoe64 | last reply
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
Hey everyone, I can't imagine that this question hasn't been asked before, but I must be using the wrong keywords. I used a small electric crucible (for lead and pewter) to heat up pewter and pour it into a coin shaped plaster mold. Truthfully, I'm pretty pleased with the level of detail, but I've got some 'burned' colored discoloration on the coins. I've tried gently washing with soap and water which got off some of it. 1) am I doing something wrong to produce that coloring? 2) will silver polish clean it up, or will it damage the pewter? (almost certain it will be fine, but thought I'd double check) Should I just be scrubbing harder with soap and water? For whatever reason, the image uploader isn't working. I'll try to get one into the comments after I post this. many thanks!
Topic by oldmicah | last reply
Exactly like casting a 3D print out of metal; I have a airsoft upper receiver which I want to cast out of aluminium cheaply. Made of polymer and quite complex. http://www.evike.com/images/large/Mbody_GP_M4AEGUpper_lg.jpg
Topic by Digital Flame | last reply
My dad and I go deer hunting, and just today my dad got a small 5-point buck. When we went to get it cleaned, we asked to keep the antlers with a small region of the skull (skullplate) attached. I have it outside currently so that the remaining hide and can dry. They look pretty good, and I wanted to make a reproduction of them by making a mold. I've never made a mold before in my life, so I don't know what to use. I thought about Plaster of Paris, but I don't have any. I know it's made of gypsum, and I could get some of that from spare drywall. I'm really confused about it. If anybody has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
Hello casting helpers! I would like to make a cast of this angel. The original is about 18" tall. This is a picture of it that I superimposed in this scene. I'm not sure what it will be sitting on since I'm not sure of the cemetery's requirements. Ideally, I'd like to make it look like alabaster, with varying textures of off white and translucent shades. Being that the pour will be heavy, the cast needs to be heavy duty. Also, when taking off the cast, I'd prefer not to harm the original, although that can be done if necessary. It needs to be of a material that will withstand the test of time, hence, I'm thinking that epoxy may be a good medium. If there's something like a JB Weld that is pourable, that would be great. I have installed black epoxy tops in laboratories, a very hard substance. Any suggestions you might have would be very much appreciated. I am in a time crunch, so please let me know AYSC (at your soonest convenience). Thanks so much! I have posted pictures of what I want the final product to look like: https://www.instructables.com/answers/Casting-resin-or-epoxy-in-a-mould/
Question by dwilliamson1 | last reply
I bought a cast-iron pan with the little elevated parts to make it more like a grill since I would have to go use a community grill and usually I am just cooking for myself. I have tried different recipes and have either found it's way too done, or just not cooked right (and still cold and red in some spots). I think I am getting closer, by searing it at the highest temp my oven can get for a few minutes on each side, but for a decent cut (around an inch) it seems that isn't actually cooked, and then I put it in the oven for what I heard was a short amount of time (I like medium-rare to medium steaks) and it was very well done... Any one have any recipes that works well for them? Also how do I not fill my house with smoke when I try to sear the steak?
Question by downgrade | last reply
The stove is not painted and have removed all rust ect Thanks TONY
Question by tony6677 | last reply
I am trying to make a fascia panel for a car. In order to do that I need to make a cast of one of the voids in a panel, from a vehicle console, since it can't be measured easily. I want to make the cast so that I can then make an accurate template from which I can make the panel I need. I am looking for a material that is non-destructive to the plastic panel that contains the void. That will create a rigid solid replica of the void. I know nothing about making molds and casts. Thanks in advance.
Topic by ucs308
I am planning to cast jewellery by generally sand casting with wax models, though I would like to make more permanent silicone mold backups if something happens to the original wax master. My plan would be to pour or press silicone onto the wax master and get it out after the silicone has set. The only easy way I know of doing this is to cut a line all around the silicone mold to retrieve the wax master. I know other people seem to do this. I can't see how you could do this though without accidentally scratching the wax master inside?
Question by lsadwdwadw | last reply
I am making a custom sword. The intent is to make it out of resin. I have made the blank out of wood and will be making the mold from silicone. I currently have Castin Craft Clear resin. I have made a few sample casts and the results are fairly inconsistent. I have made it from straight resin (plus Catalyst) which made it too brittle or too tacky, either too much or not enough catalyst. I tried to do a cold cast by mixing in Aluminum Powder (I used Stop leak for radiator repair), but that made the cast like rubber. I am not keen on buying stuff online and can't source Real AL Powder locally and the only resin I can find is either the stuff I have or Fiberglass resin at Home Depot. I am trying to end up with a finished product that will not be tacky and will not shatter if I bump it against something. It will be used as a Renaissance Festival Costume piece, not for real use. Any other Resin casting suggestions would be welcome as well.
Question by Zippomanonfire | last reply
I've never used resin before, but have ambitions of encasing a number of 'larger' things in resin than the typical 'something in a paperweight'. i'm looking more along the lines of something in a 18in square block. my first question is, what type of resin can be purchased in large quantities affordably (at the craft store a small can was something like $20..i'd need 50 of these) and secondly, will i have to worry about cracking or any other issues the larger i attempt to go (and if so, is there an alternative to resin which is more conducive to what i'm hoping to do)? *'larger' = typewriter, log, sneakers...
Topic by jeremiah1223 | last reply