Has anyone ever cast silver into cuttlefish bones/shell. Ihave a wax original which i dont want to lose in the lost wax process.
Topic by maninamousesuit | last reply
Discovery and Objective Productions UK are seeking a HOST with a strong science background (B.A. minimum) for DANGERMAN, a documentary-style reality series that replicates extraordinary stunts performed by daredevils, stuntmen and showmen and explains the scientific principles that make the most amazing feats possible. So what do you say? Anyone in the mood for some DANGER!?!http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/sci/628816251.html
Topic by Tetranitrate | last reply
I want to fabricate and cast crystals to then cast in glass. I've done glass casting before, but not much mold making. If I have a wax positive, I can melt it out of the plaster/silica mold so it doesn't have to be a 2-part mold as long as there aren't any undercuts, which there won't be. My question is how can I fabricate and then cast crystals to then cast in wax to make my glass mold? I'd like to work with silicone since it is flexible and then I won't have to make a 2-part mold. I thought about cutting foam to make the crystals, but I want the edges to be very smooth so that the glass casts look like crystals. I also thought about carving glycerine soap and casting that, but not sure how it would hold up to being cast with any flexible mold-making materials like silicone. Any advice?
Question by shortone | last reply
Hi Can anyone help this old codger trying his first casting please. What I am trying to make is an aluminium block, 150mm square by 52mm thick with a 100mm hole in the centre, hopefully with a decent finish as I am short on finishing equipment. I am planning to weld angle iron into a square to make the sides, use a section of 100mm steel tube for the centre hole and tack weld them onto a steel plate to make the mould. I also want to fill the tube to make a disc. Does this this sound feasible please, also will the aluminium, as it shrink as it cools, get stressed by the centre steel tube. When I have poured the aluminimium into the moulds, do I slide a scraper across the top to get a reasonable finish. Many thanks Keith
Topic by axus4 | last reply
Monday foundry is a small jobbing foundry meaning we take in any small work and some larger. if you would like to have a part cast for something just ask ( motor houseings and other motor castings, custom tools, ect castings are NOT machined unless asked for; cost of machineing is almost double the cost of the part, (unless its as simple as drill a hole aka)
Topic by Danielro10
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Question by Fypsigon | last reply
For my woodshop class I am making a cane/"pimpstick" and I am making a custom head for it. I want to cast it in aluminum using the lost wax technique. would normal plaster of paris be a good material to use for the mold? the peice is about 3 cubic inches. I was thinking about having two "fires" one to heat my aluminum and another to heat the mold so it doesnt shatter. Is that workable? P.S. It would be a one use thing so no need for anything expensive. I have literally 10 dollars to spend on this. Thankyou, bud
Question by budhaztm | last reply
Hi I want to make a daruma doll. Like in the video. How do you cast pulp into a hollow item? like in the video? Its pretty cool how they make them. ANybody do anything like this? I don't want to papermache with newspaper I want to make it like in the video.
Question by undftdking | last reply
Hello I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying the molds I created to make the cast and carve chocolates in my instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/Carve-an-cast-chocolate-treets/ It means you don't have to go through the pesky business of carving or making our own molds to end up with some fun chocolates.. or you could use something like plaster and end up with some nice casts.
Topic by world of woodcraft | last reply
I do not like the factory seasoning on a cast iron skillet I have. Should I season over it or remove the factory black, nasty crap and season on my own from scratch? It's a shame how poorly companies, even good ones like Lodge have such poor quality seasoning on their products.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
Next weekend, I'll be going on a campout with my boy scout troop. (Nothing new to me). As every year, we will be having a mock "Iron Chef" competition. A charcoal pit will be provided for the cooking, as will some cast iron dutch-ovens. I would like to bring my own fry pan however. I am debating whether to bring a stainless or cast iron. I have both, and am fairly well able to cook with both. (besides my horrible cooking skills.) However, I'd like to see some suggestions, and here some viewpoints on the matter. I am not certain if we will be allowed the use of our propane stoves or not.
Question by dkop1 | last reply
Need some ideas:I have an antique wooden chest of drawers. Most of the wooden molding around the top and bottom is long gone, BUT I do have two original sample pieces. They are a pretty intricate design and there is no way I'll find anything like them today. So I thought I'd make a mold and cast some to replace the missing wooden strips. I smeared up the thin wood strips with Vaseline and pressed them into plaster of parís. Well the mold turned out fine, but now I am struggling with what to use for a casting material. I tried plaster of parís, it was to fragile. I tried painters caulk, but it was too flexible and looked like heck. Thought about mixing sawdust and glue, but am pretty sure the texture will be wrong and grainy. It needs to be stain-able so I can make it look like it's wood and semi rigid so I can get it out of the mold. Any suggestions??
Question by john043 | last reply
I'm trying to cast some resin claws for a halloween/convention costume I'm trying to make ( it isn't a Wolverine one .. more a VERY twisted, evil, and blood thirsty Mad Hatter character ) and running into a bit of trouble. I'm following the 5 drops of hardener per 1 oz of resin that is stated on the resin can's instructions. It also says it's supposed to set hard enough to support objects at 40 minutes. I mixed a 2oz batch of resin ( 10 drops of hardener ) and poured it into a rubber latex lined plaster mold that I had sprayed with mold release. I put a bolt down partly into the resin so I can later attach a wire to it and left it alone for about an hour to an hour and a half. I came back to check on it and the bolt was still able to be moved/removed with NO resistance. I figured the mix was bad and threw it out, but noticed it was the consistancy of slime. Did I mess it up and not wait long enough, or did I not add enough hardener or what ? Any suggestions would be great!
Question by Myrr | last reply
Simple. i want to melt these cola cans (and beer cans too ! ) so i can use it to cast some stuff. interested mainly in investment casting (lost wax method). need to know the temperature. precautions and possible cases of going wrong. i have an electronic muffle furnace. if it helps.. regards, Chakra
Question by chakra | last reply
I'm doing lost wax casting for a glass mold. I'm using parrafin wax to get the shape of it, but I was wondering what i could use to melt the wax out of the plaster of Paris once it's hardened. Also any advice regarding the whole lost wax process would be helpful!
Topic by Ehamby1219 | last reply
My kiln is on the fritz, I need to cast a piece but I don't have time to wait for the new kiln to arrive. Does anybody know of any UK companies to whom I can send a carved wax piece and have it cast in precious metal? Thanks in advance.
Question by alexhalford | last reply
Hullo, just had a call from my mate who wants to do abit of pewter casting, now he had a very specific question about molds and the silicone to use, I had a look round but no one mentions a particular sort, I thought all silicone is silicone ... but decided to bring the question to the experts To make a silicone mold, for pewter casting, what sort of silicone should my friend use? He shall be making a belt buckle from what i gather. Thanks chaps Biggsy
Topic by Biggsy | last reply
Hello, Does anyone know of a clear casting resin that when cured is also machinable? I have an idea for a project that involves encasing objects in resin and then using power tools, milling machines, lathes, etc. to partially expose the object by cutting though it and the casting. Any thoughts on what resin to use and where it can be purchased? Thanks!
Topic by WaffleM | last reply
I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you
Topic by lsadwdwadw | last reply
Hey everyone, I can't imagine that this question hasn't been asked before, but I must be using the wrong keywords. I used a small electric crucible (for lead and pewter) to heat up pewter and pour it into a coin shaped plaster mold. Truthfully, I'm pretty pleased with the level of detail, but I've got some 'burned' colored discoloration on the coins. I've tried gently washing with soap and water which got off some of it. 1) am I doing something wrong to produce that coloring? 2) will silver polish clean it up, or will it damage the pewter? (almost certain it will be fine, but thought I'd double check) Should I just be scrubbing harder with soap and water? For whatever reason, the image uploader isn't working. I'll try to get one into the comments after I post this. many thanks!
Topic by oldmicah | last reply
Is there any reliant and consist way to create high RPM gears using 3D prints? What I had planned to do is 3D print some gears out, make silicon molds out of them and then pouring wax in the silicon molds. I then would put the wax into sand and then pour molten aluminum into it. To me, it sounds good in theory but I thought somebody else might have tried making PLA 3D prints into metal.
Topic by rexdino5 | last reply
I have a 3D model that I would like to have printed so I can use it as a cast for a pewter mold. It is a simple pin that I designed in 3DSMax.. Would the cast have to be metal, or is there some plastic/poly that would take the heat of molten pewter? I don't want to have to pay a jeweler to do this, I already have the model in 3D, it seems like it should be easy to print a cast so I can make them myself..
Topic by 3DPiper | last reply
I've been trying to find a thorough and detailed introduction to casting in Bondo for a while but have found nothing definitive. Could someone make a beginners guide for using Bondo to make replicas and casts w/ Pictures?
Topic by kojimagtr | last reply
Hi. I'm pretty new to delft clay casting. I make my models out of sculpey clay.2 problems I'm having: 1: sometimes the clay sticks to the model in the fine details (small letters, curves, etc) 2: takes SEVERAL attempts to get a good pour to fill the mold. I'm making several air holes and a pretty good size pour gate/channel. Any advice? Thanks
Question by bdanielpa2019 | last reply
I want to reproduce a bit of jewellery I have designed in pewter by using a 2-part RTV silicone mould. By all accounts it is possible but I've run into some problems when sourcing materials. Most high temperature silicones I have come across state a maximum temperature of 250°C, But pewter has a melting point of around 280°C. My feeling is that the mould itself will most likely never actually reach 280°C and will probably only be above 250°C for a short period of time. But I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this and could verify for me. Also as I'm new to the whole process, any other tips are welcomed. This is the high temp silicone I'm currently looking at. Thanks, -Tom
Topic by madmanmoe64 | last reply
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
Hi I'm making my first plastic resin cast and the mold for it using the tutorial here: http://www.b9robotresource.com/plastic_casting1.htm One difference to that tutorial however is that the object I am making a mold of is something I've make in air-dry modelling clay. I've spent quite a bit of time making the original so bit worried about pouring the silicone for the mold onto the clay object - will it break the clay down or is there some way to prepare the clay (varnish or something?). I've put a test of dried clay in water and it has broken down in five minutes. Can anyone who has done this sort of thing before advise please? Thanks in advance. Garrett
Topic by garrettlynch | last reply
Question by wenpherd | last reply
I've been really interested in at home aluminum casting and wanted to make a forge and try my hand at it. Before I started I've done a lot of research and video watching. It seems it is most popular to use the lost foam method. I was just wondering if it would be possible, and what materials to use to make a simple reusable mold. If I was to cast 10-12 of the same object it just seems easier to make a mold then forming and shaping 12 pieces of foam. Since I'm just getting started i wouldn't be casting anything too complicated or big. Thanks in advance!
Question by Who_jacked_my_name | last reply
Question by trigger ects | last reply
I have been sculpting in wax and then making plaster or silicone molds to make multiples of some fairly detailed model toys. I intended to then pour in liquid latex and create wiggly bendy toys, but unfortunately latex doesn't dry inside the molds. It doesn't seem to matter how long I leave them when I open them lost of the latex is still liquid. I am looking for a replacement. Something durably bendy and low cost that will dry in a mostly enclosed mold. Any Ideas? Please bare in mind I am in the UK.
Question by moogle123 | last reply
I made a latex mold off a piece of textured sheet. The mold is 24x24x1/8 inch. I want to make castings that are flexible and paintable, so I can make "sheets" I can shape into roads for miniature terrain. I have heard there are paints or surface finishes that will work for this, and if this is true, I'd like brand names from US sources.
Question by hardlec | last reply
Plaster-of-paris would be ok as a cast material, but a softer material (like the washable material that expensive prosthetics are made of) would be better.
Question by Kenneth G | last reply
I have a propane roofing torch, which will be my heat source. I need to know how to build a small crucible and pouring device, and how to make molds from my waz originals. I plan to pour Aluminum, because it has a relatively low melting point, but I would also like to make objects in bronze, if possible.
Question by Elizabeth Heller | last reply
Question by larryary | last reply
I have a 1958 Pfaff 332 sewing machine with a broken knob made of bakelite. Replacement knobs are not available. It occurred to me that it might be possible to cast a replacement with a different resin. I have no experience with casting and don't know what kind of resin would be best.. I saw the antique radio knob replacement ible, and liked the idea of using a flexible mold for detail. This knob engages a major cam mechanism and should be fairly strong. The old knob 'handle' was broken off when I got the machine. The images of complete knobs are from the web. The complete knob is about 1 inch by two inches. What product available in the USA do you recommend?
Question by mole1 | last reply
Is there a substance out there that can be carved or moulded that can reduce in size keeping its proportions intact. i know you can get the reverse, a substance that can grow in size keeping proportions intact (Thanks Goodhart). I am trying to sculpt in miniature and its breaking my heart
Topic by maninamousesuit | last reply
I want to make a mold of a piece of colored plastic, the problem is the plastic is thin walled and fragile. I was wondering what the best mold material would be for it. I need to preserve the original so a gentle process would be the best. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
Question by rashielx | last reply
I need help designing molds, crucible, and pouring device for small scale aluminum sculpture, using a propane -fueled roofing torch as a heat source. I make wax originals, and can make plaster molds. I have acces to an outdoor area that I can use to melt metal.
Question by Elizabeth Heller | last reply
I was just sent this link by a friend: Discovery Science Game Show Here is a brief description of the game show:Producers for a Discovery Science Game show are looking for contestants. Contestants can be a gonzo engineer/scientist or just a high-energy, creative, fun, builder!They are looking for garage warriors (builders, scientists, inventors, engineers, carpenters, welders, mechanics, architects, etc...) who love to invent new gadgets, build robots, racing power tools, weld together bizarre machines that drive, fly, climb, shoot flames or launch projectiles. This Game Show is for thinkers, dreamers and doers, who are eager to let their inner MacGyvers be seen and ready to collaborate with a team of other builders.It looks like it was made just for our kind!! Now, who is going to try to get a spot on this show? If you do, be sure to let us all know!
Topic by jeff-o | last reply
I know that oogoo outgasses acetic acid, how bad is that to have on your skin? Would it be possible to coat the skin first with something like liquid glove or baking soda, to counteract the acetic acid? Thanks for any info
Question by foobear | last reply
Hey I've been looking into aluminum casting for a while now (done it once or twice with different "furnaces") Now I'm reading alot about lost foam casting (sounds interessting too) But I was thinking; do you think (/have experience) that I could make some kind of "permanent" mold out of some kind of cement/ concrete/ fireclay mixture for casting similar pieces several times?? I was thinking, when you make the furnace(s) you make a cement/ concrete/ fireclay mixture that can withstand the temperature, so shouldn't it be able to withstand the temperature of the aluminum being poured into it also? (and therefor be able to make the mold out of) - I was thinking to use a special type of cement ment for use around a fireplace. What do you know/ think of the idea? - and also; is there any (other) cheap/ "easy" way to make permanent molds for several similar castings? (at home/ the backyard) PS. not important but I've made/ used a coal fired furnace, a gas (butane) fired furnace and now I'm about to build an electrical furnace (for the sake of expence and time of heating up)... I'm trying to make some casting sand/ green sand, but the ingredients looks to be rather difficult for me to gather (In Denmark Europe)
Question by lordl9999 | last reply
I need some casting(?) material ideas. I'm looking for fairly inexpensive material to make selector knobs (so it needs to cure to a hard, strong material)...would that material work also for casting things like remote control casing? If not, what would be a good material?... then i also need to make some thermocoupler holders, which need to be able to handle 300 degrees for a very long time. a hard material would be preferable, but, something with a firm rubbery texture would be ok also.... THEN, what material would be good for making the molds to pour the casting materials into to form those items? First, I'd want something solid i could cut into to form the shapes I want to cast, then I need something to put over my first cast(s) after I 'fine tune' them so I can make more.....So.. any ideas/suggestions?
Question by bac512 | last reply