What to cast?

Hello, I plan on casting some aluminium soon. However, I haven't decided on what to cast.... any ideas??

Question by knutknackebröd   |  last reply


metal laptop

Just finished "Idoru" by william gibson.The main character has a laptop with a cast aluminium case made from reclaimed soda canswirh semi precious stones as switches and buttons and reclaimed ivory keys. I suppuse its possible to do, but difficult... but wouldnt it be deadly? Anyone ever tried that?

Topic by maninamousesuit   |  last reply


Need information on casting sculpture from small scale wax originals (8""-12"),

I have a propane roofing torch, which will be my heat source. I need to know how to build a small crucible and pouring device, and how to make molds from my waz originals. I plan to pour Aluminum, because it has a relatively low melting point, but I would also like to make objects in bronze, if possible.

Question by Elizabeth Heller   |  last reply


home-based aluminum foundry for small scale sculptures (8-12)?

I need help designing molds, crucible, and pouring device for small scale aluminum sculpture, using a propane -fueled roofing torch as a heat source. I make wax originals, and can make plaster molds. I have acces to an outdoor area that I can use to melt metal.

Question by Elizabeth Heller   |  last reply


Sparklers as heat source for work with metal?

Forgive my ignorance but I was wondering if a sparkler could be used as a heat source for something like soldering or melting small quantities of aluminum? I could use something to bead up the end of a brass rod too. Any idea if that could work?

Question by paqrat   |  last reply


Advice on lost wax casting

I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you

Topic by lsadwdwadw   |  last reply


can't get in warm glass forum or hobby metal casters forum,help?

Have joined both groups but havn't used either site for a while and now can't seem to get in.

Question by blindpig   |  last reply


Help with a cast metal coin instructable!

Need help finding a particular instructable, friends.  I would almost bet body parts that I saw an instructable here that had the following process to it for making a custom fantasy coin or medallion: Use the underside  bottom of a paper coffee cup-mix up a portion of Bondo and fill the bottom recess with it.  When Bondo hardens, pop out the round disc, paste a paper disc onto it then draw out your coin or medallion design.  Carve out your design with a dremel or similar, make a silicone putty mold, then when mold is dry, pour pewter or zinc to make a custom coin. Darken and polish. I know I've seen it, I'm wanting to stick it in my favorites list so I don't lose it again, and I especially want to thank the author for coming up with such a simple process for a custom medallion. Can anyone help me?

Topic by pheenix42   |  last reply


Cheap casting compound?

I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)

Question by Fypsigon   |  last reply


How to cut wax master out of silicone mold without damaging it?

I am planning to cast jewellery by generally sand casting with wax models, though I would like to make more permanent silicone mold backups if something happens to the original wax master. My plan would be to pour or press silicone onto the wax master and get it out after the silicone has set. The only easy way I know of doing this is to cut a line all around the silicone mold to retrieve the wax master. I know other people seem to do this. I can't see how you could do this though without accidentally scratching the wax master inside?

Question by lsadwdwadw   |  last reply


Casting a REALLY complex HOLLOW shape with metal!?

Exactly like casting a 3D print out of metal; I have a airsoft upper receiver which I want to cast out of aluminium cheaply. Made of polymer and quite complex. http://www.evike.com/images/large/Mbody_GP_M4AEGUpper_lg.jpg

Topic by Digital Flame   |  last reply


lost wax casting: what material is the best for pouring metal into?

So I made a rad Yoda wax figurine recently and I'm looking into converting him into a aluminum via the lost wax casting method. I've seen some other instructables on casting the metal into plaster of paris, but that doesn't seem to preserve the very fine details that I want. There are a few other methods I've seen on other forums, like mixing fine sand with plaster and making a ceramic mold...I have even wackier ideas like using fireproof cement, but I haven't seen anything online to support using it...what other ideas can you think of that don't involve expensive investment powders I have to buy online? 

Topic by jtrainer1   |  last reply


Can anyone help me with metal casting?

I have been working with my friend, setting up a small IT business in our local area providing some software but mainly hardware. Now that I have a furnace and it can melt aluminium my friend has asked me to cast a case for his computers. He said that he will produce a wooden copy of what he would like it to look like, then give it to me to cast. I am wondering how I can convert the wooden copy into a wax copy so that I can continue from my own knowledge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thomas

Question by thomas9666   |  last reply


Dentists/Lost Wax casting artists, advice about product please? Answered

I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you

Question by lsadwdwadw   |  last reply


Mold venting for lost foam metal casting

I've been casting small aluminum statues using the "lost Foam " technique. My success rate has been about 60%t070%because of the aluminum freezing in the long narrow parts of the mold. The statues are human figures so the outstretched arms and legs sometimes are not complete. Am now considering heating the mold to reduce this problem. Any suggestions will be appreciated

Topic by blindpig   |  last reply


Whats the best way to mix greensand? Answered

I'm looking to start aluminum casting, and I'd like to try sand casting. I'm on a TIGHT budget, so I need something for about twenty bucks. What the best formula for greensand?

Question by Appollo64   |  last reply


Lost wax casting to order. Answered

My kiln is on the fritz, I need to cast a piece but I don't have time to wait for the new kiln to arrive. Does anybody know of any UK companies to whom I can send a carved wax piece and have it cast in precious metal? Thanks in advance.

Question by alexhalford   |  last reply


Aluminum Casting with 3D Prints

Is there any reliant and consist way to create high RPM gears using 3D prints? What I had planned to do is 3D print some gears out, make silicon molds out of them and then pouring wax in the silicon molds. I then would put the wax into sand and then pour molten aluminum into it. To me, it sounds good in theory but I thought somebody else might have tried making PLA 3D prints into metal.

Topic by rexdino5   |  last reply


Print a cast for pewter molding

I have a 3D model that I would like to have printed so I can use it as a cast for a pewter mold. It is a simple pin that I designed in 3DSMax.. Would the cast have to be metal, or is there some plastic/poly that would take the heat of molten pewter?  I don't want to have to pay a jeweler to do this, I already have the model in 3D, it seems like it should be easy to print a cast so I can make them myself..

Topic by 3DPiper   |  last reply


Softening Candle Wax (lost wax casting)

Well, I made my first lost wax casting yesterday using lead, and a Plaster of Paris mold. It worked great, except that I didn't have enough lead. But, after searching on the great web, I realized that the wax I used was much harder than what the sculptors use. Why is this? Is it a different type of wax? I searched Google, and couldn't find anywhere to get the wax I needed. Maybe I typed in the wrong name. I don't know. I'd much rather use my own wax, as my mom has a stockpile of large-er sized candles that softened and deformed in the Florida sun. How would I soften it, other than heating it in water? Is that water method thing how they normally do it? I'm really into melting metal, and want to do more casting, so can someone help?

Topic by John Smith   |  last reply


NES Bedding, Apple Cider Donuts, Metal Casting with Sugru

NES Bedding Apple Cider Donuts Metal Casting with Sugru Hand Lights Dr. Who Inspired Watch Green Tomato Chutney Creepy UV Sun Jar Ultimate Parts Storage Bike Part Belt Make a Dragon Skull Networked Sprinkler Controller Bent Wood Rings LED Monitor Backlight Read Credit Cards Wireless Altoids Display

Topic by randofo 


Jewellery made from both silver and gold.? Answered

I plan to make (ideally through lost wax casting) a (fine) silver necklace pendant with (fine) gold lettering. I have made items using this process out of both metals, but have never combined both metals in the same piece. How would I go about doing this? Thanks in advance.

Question by alexhalford   |  last reply


Campfire powered foundry?

Hey guys, Ive been checking out a few of the foundry instructables here, and I want to make one. I have 2 problems. 1, I don't have any charcoal, and two, I don't have a fan. So I was wondering... is there a way that I could make a foundry that would get the heat from a campfire or firepot? I'd there are 101 uses I can think of for molten aluminum.., Thanks in advance! IaC

Question by I_am_Canadian   |  last reply


any way i can make a mold of plastic with out breaking it? Answered

Any way i can make a mold of plastic with out breaking it? the plastic is knex and i need to know how to make a mold for it and it must withstand the heat of metal update:pic of what i want molded

Question by knexsuperbuilderfreak   |  last reply


A good, never mind, Great way to start metal forging/casting

I am pretty new, wait, very new to this, ok im a straight complete noob and i only know what i have seen (not much, but i do know how to scavenge anything and modd things to make it work...) and i was just wondering what would be the best way to make a medium sized forge and what to use to fuel it.

Topic by FunkNattidelic   |  last reply


recommend an electric switch plastic casting material?

Trying to figure out which plastic to use to cast the insulation insides around the brass metal contacts of a vintage DC rotating switch that does carry a lot of amps.  So the plastic has to be wear resistant against the brass contacts sliding across and resistant  to the heat created from the current being drawn thru the contacts. Thanks!

Question by Veewee111   |  last reply


how to make a large wristwatch case?

I am a collector and amateur restorer of wristwatches and I have a couple of projects which require purpose made watch cases. This is because they are old pocket watch movements that are typically 40mm plus in diameter and in one case the crown is at 12 o'clock not 3 like a normal wristwatch. The standard OEM watch cases are generally too small and I am looking for something a little more elegant (but still masculine) to show off these beautiful vintage movements and dials (as such I intend to use a crystal back as well as front). I would like to do one of the watches with a yellow gold front bezel (if not a gold body) to set off the gold leaf/plate(?) numerals and hands (on a white dial). The body, lugs and back crystal bezel could be in silver (may even be preferable) as the exposed side of the movement is predominantly white metal with gold train and jewel holes. I have been thinking stirling silver for the main body and perhaps 18Kt gold filled base metal or solid 18kt gold for the bezel. I have no experience with jewellry making and would be very grateful for any suggestions regarding techniques that a keen novice could use to get a professional result. I would also be looking at jewellers screws to connect the 3 pieces. Just out of interest the second movement does not have a particularly interesting or aesthetically worthy dial so I am toying with titanium for the second project...........

Question by handles63   |  last reply


bare bronze welding cast iron

If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way

Topic by beserker   |  last reply


How do I weave or make a cast net traditionally by hand using a shuttle and sheet bend knots?

What I would like to know is how to make a cast net traditionally using a shuttle and sheet bend knots, the problem is that I dont know how many initial loops to put on the metal ring in clove hitches, and where to put the spacers, any ideas?

Question by bongo matt   |  last reply


CASTING CALL FOR ENGINEERS AND CERTIFIED CONSTRUCTION WORKERS.

National Geographic Television is looking for an experienced engineer or certified construction worker to host a new ten-part television series. The ideal candidate will have a diverse range of experience in one or more of the following industries: aviation, shipping, rail freight, construction, mining, or civil engineering. You don’t have to have an engineering degree, you just have to prove that: you have engineering experience, you love your work, and you have the ability to communicate that passion to others. Professional certification in welding, commercial diving, metal work, or electronics is desirable. The series will be broadcast on National Geographic Channels both in the United States and around the world in the second half of 2008. Send resumes and inquiries to fixes@ngs.org by October 20 2007. Better still send a video of yourself on the job to World’s Toughest Fixes, C/O National Geographic Television, 1145 17th Street NW, Washington DC 20036.

Topic by peter_rees_tv   |  last reply


How can i focus a magnetron beam from a microwave , to make a small metal forge?

hello I have been looking for a number of ways to cast my zinc with, along with just melting other metals namely aluminium. I have come across the microwave method, however i feel that just using a microwave is a wasteful and hazardous means of meting metals like zinc , since the metal vapors are very flammable, even explosive, even as a dust I thought, since the microwave is basically just a box which the magnetron beams microwaves into, why not build a forge, which consist of a crucible laying in the center-point of a magnetron beam. all this would sit outside, done at a distance to avoid exposure to rouge microwaves. I dont wish to introduce anything new into the equation, just use prexisting things form the microwave, and probably some aluminium sheet. Anyone know if it will work better than just using a microwave? and how i should focus the beam? i want to keep the whole thing as compact as possible, probably which the crucible being no further than 10-20cm from the magnetron. Thanks

Question by oldmanbeefjerky   |  last reply


Bearings?

I'm looking at the VXB.com web site and can anyone tell me if the bearings are a fiber casting outside or a full metal bearing. Better yet does anyone have the part or kit number. I spoke with a sales rep and she asked if I needed a fiber outside or full metal bearing.

Question by captain727   |  last reply


Setting up two forges...

Basically I have two ideas, one of which I'm pretty ready to make now and another which will take a little longer to make, one is a tiny forge, like desktop sized, for working at home and the other is a much larger forge for big metalwork projects, thankfully the large one will actually require less parts scavenging as I have plenty of acces to scrap material and there's a brickyard over the wall from us which will do me the necessary materials very cheap, mainly because I did a little forklift driving for them for larger heavyweight loads over three tonnes. That's all well and good a big one I can get my head round easily enough, But. How would I go about making a tiny forge and I mean miniscule, it's main purpose is for heating to cast for my specialist parts I prefer making and the other is for low material single cast jewellry my mum makes (she used to own a jewewllry business and still makes the odd bespoke items. But my main question is how I can build a reliable yet compact forge and furnace, from what I have sitting around I'm sure I can come up with a decent fuel source, ranging from butane torches and stoves, both of which can do propane and I could go to natural gas (we have a special plug out the back for gas barbeques the house had it when we came...) but my other questions are a bit more odd, first of all what would make a great crucible, I need something that'll be fairly invincible to the hardships caused by life, as the other liely user of the forge and furnace is very forgetful and sometimes accident prone. Next up is the housing, would it be feasible to use a single block of thermocrete cast to make the main furnace housing, as in everything is but the fuel and air source holes and the crucible hole would be one block, as it stands that seems like the best way to make it simple and effective, plus it would be pretty airtight where needed. Next question is the fuel and temperatures, I know that butane at full combustion get 1300C and 1000C is a practicable operating temp. for a butane item but what about propane or even natural gas, since it would be very cheap and clean burning... I'm a bit of a noob towards this end of the scale, I can make stuff hot and I can do alot with these things but actual forge and furnace making is a little beyond me on this scale, however I can think of several advantages to my baby furnace, including the practical movement of it, as it could be self contained very easily. The pic was just one of the last pictures that's remotely intersting I uploaded, however it raises it's own points as the jet engine basically welded all it's components forward of the flame together.

Topic by killerjackalope   |  last reply


Does anyone know of a good 1 to 1 resin/catalyst and metal powder that can be gotten locally (to Phoenix, AZ)? Answered

I am making a custom sword. The intent is to make it out of resin. I have made the blank out of wood and will be making the mold from silicone. I currently have Castin Craft Clear resin. I have made a few sample casts and the results are fairly inconsistent. I have made it from straight resin (plus Catalyst) which made it too brittle or too tacky, either too much or not enough catalyst. I tried to do a cold cast by mixing in Aluminum Powder (I used Stop leak for radiator repair), but that made the cast like rubber. I am not keen on buying stuff online and can't source Real AL Powder locally and the only resin I can find is either the stuff I have or Fiberglass resin at Home Depot. I am trying to end up with a finished product that will not be tacky and will not shatter if I bump it against something. It will be used as a Renaissance Festival Costume piece, not for real use. Any other Resin casting suggestions would be welcome as well.

Question by Zippomanonfire   |  last reply


Who Here Has Melted Aluminum?

I had my dad weld up an ingot mold out of 1 1/2" angle steel, yesterday, and I started wondering. How many people have melted aluminum here? I have, but here its so hot (Florida...Southern Florida.), that its almost unbearable to melt it anymore. I'm getting into sand casting, and I was wondering if anyone had experience in that area. My .gifs are of my foundry, and how I made it. (they aren't exact)

Topic by John Smith   |  last reply


Gilding a ...Wasp?

I have a  vision for a project but am unsure what would be the best means of achieving it.  When I was a kid, I had a bug collection. My grandfather found a perfectly preserved wasp in his garage and saved it for me in a plastic syrup bottle lid. Over the decades all my other insect specimens crumbled (I was a kid, so I just had them loose in a school box without proper mounts) but this wasp is STILL intact and perfect inside the syrup cap more than 20 years later! My grandfather was very special to me, and I was toying with the idea of somehow metal plating this wasp to turn it into a pendant. I have no experience with metal working and don't own the stuff to do it, but i'm open to purchasing materials if my goal even seems realistic.  It is a fragile exoskeleton, which probably limits what I can do in terms of casting  I have wondered about brush coating it with fiberglass resin (to strengthen it) and then painting it with gold leaf, but many of the faux gold leaf paints out there are pretty crappy looking.   Fearing I might just end up destroying the wasp, I've also thought maybe I should just get a Ryker mount and hang him with the rest of my legit insect collection, though it is not posed properly and is likely waaaaaay too old to be re-relaxed for posing. If any experienced jewelry makers, gold leaders, or entomologists have thoughts on how to successfully gild this wasp (or why not to), I welcome your ideas! Thanks in advance.

Topic by ashleyjlong   |  last reply


help me ID this antique

I picked this guy up several years ago at an auction.  He is cast out of some sort of metal, stands 16 inches high and is on a 8x5 base.  No markings on him but has a plastic sign board on his front and someone painted a clock on the metal on his back.  He looks like he is holding clock weights and a long staff.  Any idea what this guy is and/or is from?

Topic by jim_2000   |  last reply


Vintage Hand Tool?

One end is pointed (maybe an awl) and the other has a screwdriver like blade (maybe a pry bar). It is cast or formed metal, 5 inches long and the blade end is 3/8" wide. My best guess so far is maybe a shoemaker's tool. Thanks for any help identifying this tool.

Question by bob73   |  last reply


Doe anyone know how to make a custom waffle iron?

 I am just trying to make the metal plate/die I want to make a Imagawayaki mold here are some japanese imagawayaki makers in the future i want to make a taiyaki mold.

Question by undftdking   |  last reply


Instructables member 'Nepheron' has left the site

Member 'Nepheron' has decided to withdraw from the community, unexpectedly. He deleted most of his instructables and removed information from the rest, rendering them useless. The only one left is Sugru metal casting. It mentions on his profile that he no longer wishes to participate in the community... Has anyone talked with him or have information on why he left?

Topic by nickodemus   |  last reply


induction "furnace" from microwave transformer?

Hey guys I've seen around the net that it's fairly easy to make a spot welder from a micro wave transformer /micro oven transformer. So I was thinking if it's possibly to use the same idea to make a induction furnace? I would like to use it for melting/ casting aluminum (...and possibly metals with a higher melting point... if possible) any idea if it's possible.. and how to?

Question by lordl9999   |  last reply


Solvent that 100% dissolves gorilla glue? need castable material to chemically to "burn out" for a ceramic shell casting Answered

Hello. I am working on doing an aluminium lost foam casting of a small part. I read although hazardous, some had gotten successful results from using polyurethane foam (great stuff) in a mold, and proceeding as usual. I don't normally use great stuff, so I mixed gorilla glue with 1/3 water, stirred till I had small bubbles, poured into a silicone mold, and got a pretty good few castings that were VERY dense and hardly burned at all. In fact it was practically fire resistant. I threw it on hot coals and it took a long time to shrivel into a hard little mass So next time, I used dollar store foam board next, a la Grant Thompson, but with terrible failures. It seemed the foam board didn't burn very well either. A foam board riser had actually melted off and looked like it floated away in a bubble, although a regular styrofoam block I had cut to shape cast perfectly, but was too thick and the texture was too poor as the foam was so much less dense. It was mentioned in this blog post that someone used acetone to burnout a tricky patten for a lost foam casting, so I figure I have to do the same. My pattern is curing at the moment. But my silicone molds are far more precise and more detailed than my 2d representation I made with a wire cutter. So my question is there another material that is castable but water resistant, like styrofoam, that I could use a solvent to melt out. I can't really do  lost wax because I don't have the equipment and live in an apartment and have to do this stuff out on the beach. Also due to family reasons I can't be away from home for the time it takes to do burnouts, 6 hours for a full flask, but that's also the reason why I am doing the shell casting because I can't spend too much time away from the fam. Thanks for your time, sorry if I rambled. And thanks for all here and elsewhere who teach and inspire, even if they don't know they are doing it.

Question by sk8er6   |  last reply


Green sand options? Answered

I finally finnished my testing prototype of my metal melting furnace. Did a few casts to get short rods for the lathe work and noticed a big problem. I used washed play sand as itwas the finest sand I could find locally. The result was good in shape but very bad in terms of surface quality. For another test I used the leftovers of my crushed perlite and mixed it bentonite and the surface was really smooth - but using perlite is not really an option. Real green sand is hard to get in my area and the postage costs for a 20kg bag are just too high on top of it. So, before I start hunting down all sand and soils shops nearby: Is there a proper name for extreme fine sand or a good alternative for a reusable casting media?

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


What am I doing wrong with Lost PLA investment casting (aluminum)?

I've tried several times to get lost PLA investment casting to work, but it never turns out great.  In the photos you see an attempt at casting some 3D printed pulleys.  Interestingly enough, the one furthest from the sprue turned out the best, but there are still pieces missing and the details aren't as good as they could be. I used 6061 scraps for the melt.  I've tried adding a bit of boraxo/boraxo+salt.  I've tried without it. The mold was made by using 325 mesh silica and plaster of paris about 45 to 55% respectively.  This produced far better details than with play sand, but still not great. After casting the mold I let it sit for 12 hours or so, and then baked it for 2 hours at 350 F, and then 2 hours at 500 F (upside-down), and then put it in the propane BBQ grill for 2 or 3 hours at max heat.  I then blew out the ash using a can compressed air.  In this photo I even kept the mold heated until just before pouring, and then I put it into the furnace until the top level of aluminum re-melted. You can see that I have several vents (2 for each pulley) and a very large sprue.  The sprue fills quickly before anything comes out of the vents. Once the aluminum melts I set a timer for 3 minutes and allow it to continue to heat before pouring. Any advice is welcome from those with experience.  Also any photos or videos of how you've made it work would be great! The pulley's I've printed are from http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:343343.

Question by als_liahona   |  last reply


Beginner Jewellery maker. Question about gold/silver plating

Hi there, I'm starting jewellery making as a complete beginner and want to use Metal Clays to do this as it seems one of the easier and cheaper ways to make jewellery at home. I looked into lost wax casting, but there are no studios or workshops near where I live to do this. I really love gold jewellery, and was wondering that if I used bronze, copper, or silver clay, am I able to plate it too? I've seen those electroplating kits online, but I was wondering if it would work after I've finished making my jewellery piece with the clay.  I've also seen videos about 'silver accenting' copper clay... Is this just basically like coloured base metal (costume jewellery), or is it real sterling silver (i.e high end costume jewellery). Any insight anyone can provide is very much appreciated! :) Erika

Topic by cindyycindz   |  last reply


Xena Armour......starting blocks

Well i'm pretty ambitious in wanting to cosplay a charcter from from favourite tv show Xena : Warrior Princess, no matter how camp and cheesy it is :-P Most of the sewing and basic pieces such as armbands wristbands and the corseted dress are easy enough to do....the difficulty will be in replicating the 'metal armour' especially the breastplate Xena wears...and possibly the  Chakram (that round frizbee like throwing thing :P ) So i've been looking around at different methods trying to get an all round idea of the best way to go about it, keeping in mind i'd want to keep this costume forever if possible (with a $2000 price of a Xena costume from Todd's costumes not being ideal) ...i want authenticity, with the armour being a strong and sturdy as possible with a DIY. Saying that the various instructables for Halo seem to be the way to go: Having seen three awesome tutorials that i could definitely see myself end up using: https://www.instructables.com/id/Halo-ODST-Armor-Helmet-Part-1-of-6-of-ODST-Armo/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Using-Paper-Resin-and-Fiberglass-to-be-the-Maste/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Halo-Armor/?&sort;=ACTIVE&limit;=40&offset;=40 Going the Halo armour route honestly seem the easiest. As while i would love to get as close to authentic metal battle armour as possible....there is time, money, and skills to consider. Also through looking here: http://www.therpf.com/f24/need-help-xena-armor-85017/ I've seen that it might be quite possible to create a two piece mould to cast the items. This would involve making a paper mache cast of my chest...creating the shape of the breast plate onto that....removing the breast plate...probably shaped out of nice sturdy lay (or not). From there.....a  mould could be cast from the breastplate....probably by something simply enough to mould around the front and the back of the breastplate....pressed to take on it's form and shape. One side would have to be done and dried/cured...the the other ensure the shaped of the breast plate is imprinted correctly and that non of the resin will seep through the mould... Now. I would love ideas for methods, materials, best way to paint to cast as i am a total noob just throwing around ideas at this stage. Some questions: Would it be possibly to use some as a finish so that the breastplate and other items actually feel like they are made of metal (never mind that there filled with resin)? How hard and how brittle would the resin be? Is it just like plastic? Will it break easily? If there is say a bit of side spillage when casting the resin, would it be possible to fix, say cut it off? What about the possibility of using Precious Metal Clay? Wouls it be hard/brittle/expensive/breakable? Is there such a think as bendable resin? (say for the armbands and wristbands) Would it be possible to 'coat' (as you might paint) resin onto the clay breastplate and remove it to create a replica? (without the need for a two part mould in this case)

Topic by Mavican   |  last reply


How should I make a right side wing using only the left side?

I have a little ceramic figurine. IT'S LEFT wing (opposite of one shown) is broken and has been lost. Now, I want to somehow use IT'S RIGHT wing (pictured) to make another left wing for it, through casting, molding, clay baking, using foam or whatever. I don't have access to anything high tech. Basically foam, clay, etc. but no molten metals or anything. Any ideas? I mean, it would seem simple enough to just make a mould with the existing wing and use it as a mold to make a new one, but the wings are obviously mirror images of each other, so not only are they on the opposite side, they're sort of reflected. Here is the wing I have, I need to create the other. Thanks,

Question by macgyverunigrad   |  last reply


Melting Tin Alloy to make pendant jewelry

I've made several attempts to melt down a tin alloy metal (92% tin, 8% antimony) to make pendants; small pendants for necklaces. I haven't had any luck with this at all!  The mold has been cast - the metal has been chosen but...my process isn't working. I'm using a hot plate and a small teflon pan to melt the metal. The problems I'm running into are: Once I melt the alloy, I can't get it into the mold before it starts cooling.  It pours out too quickly from the pan, then cools too quick to finish pouring.  It's a small mold (1 3/4" diameter with 1/8" lines) which isn't helping I'm sure.  Not sure on a couple things I'm hoping somebody who know more about this than I do could possibly make some suggestions. I don't know if I should be using a flux to keep the metal clean because it is getting dirty after the melting. I don't know how to get it from the pan to the mold before it cools? Someone, I'd imagine, must have come out with a tool for transferring small amounts of metal to molds.  I tried a glass eye dropper today but didn't have any luck with the transfer process.  Not sure if a crucible and flux is the way to go or not. If so, does anybody know of a good company that has items designed for this type of work? Any and all help / info / suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!  Thank you

Topic by Vince11   |  last reply


Can anyone do an instructable on how to make an axe from scratch? Thanks

I have been looking around and am unable to find any instructions on how to make axes from scratch (i.e. making the metal part, probably with sand casting or forging and working) I dont mind what sort of axe whether it be full sized two handed, or a small hatchet type. Can anyone do an instructable or give me a link to one that I may have missed? Thanks

Question by br0wneee   |  last reply


how can i build an arc furnace from a microwave ?

Hello after wanting to build a tesla coil, but first reading up on how to make a HV output supply from a microwave transformer, then realising i want an arc furnace to melt pool salt(calcium chloride, or if possible, carbonate) in order to make calcium metal, or calcium carbide, via electrolysis what do i need to do, to build an arc furnance from a microwave transformer? clearly it seems very much able to generate an arc, with a significant amoutn of heat, but i dont know how to safely use it to do what i want. at the moment i already do own a microwave transformer, its fuse clips and all the other junk form the microwave transformer. i also want to know if its possible to melt lead with an arc furnace, as i want to do some lead casting wihtout using expensive propane.

Question by oldmanbeefjerky   |  last reply