Hello, I plan on casting some aluminium soon. However, I haven't decided on what to cast.... any ideas??
Question by knutknackebröd 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I want to fabricate and cast crystals to then cast in glass. I've done glass casting before, but not much mold making. If I have a wax positive, I can melt it out of the plaster/silica mold so it doesn't have to be a 2-part mold as long as there aren't any undercuts, which there won't be. My question is how can I fabricate and then cast crystals to then cast in wax to make my glass mold? I'd like to work with silicone since it is flexible and then I won't have to make a 2-part mold. I thought about cutting foam to make the crystals, but I want the edges to be very smooth so that the glass casts look like crystals. I also thought about carving glycerine soap and casting that, but not sure how it would hold up to being cast with any flexible mold-making materials like silicone. Any advice?
Question by shortone 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
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Topic by Tetranitrate 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
Hi Can anyone help this old codger trying his first casting please. What I am trying to make is an aluminium block, 150mm square by 52mm thick with a 100mm hole in the centre, hopefully with a decent finish as I am short on finishing equipment. I am planning to weld angle iron into a square to make the sides, use a section of 100mm steel tube for the centre hole and tack weld them onto a steel plate to make the mould. I also want to fill the tube to make a disc. Does this this sound feasible please, also will the aluminium, as it shrink as it cools, get stressed by the centre steel tube. When I have poured the aluminimium into the moulds, do I slide a scraper across the top to get a reasonable finish. Many thanks Keith
Topic by axus4 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
I am curious which would be best for casting my 9 coil 3 phase stator ,Cyanate ester resin ,or Polyester resin?I also curious if it would be best to cast all coils together as a whole or would individual castings work better for heat dissipation? The individual picture just for example. Thanks for taking time to help :)
Question by 1RaceFTW 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Through the Answers section here, I learned of mixing borax, rebake into powder, and then mix alum to create a high polishable cast...and also read discussion of the use of horse hair or fiberglass fibers from insulation for reinforcing the plaster. Unfortunately, I haven't ever found enough details to test either of these methods. The other day at the store, my wife asked if tinsel would work. It never occurred to me, but it sounds like it would make sense. Have you ever tried to pull a strand of that stuff a part? Also, I'm sure right after Christmas, it would be dirt cheap and in vast supply. I have been using the plaster of paris for making mold for some Sugru/Oogoo projects. Anyone ever try this or have any suggestions? Or if anyone knowledge about the fiberglass thing that I can use as basis, that would be cool too. Also, I know there are better materials than plaster of paris, that are stronger and all, but I am trying to at least use what I have on hand first, and I know other people would find it useful too.
Question by vphreeze 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
Hello I was wondering if anyone was interested in buying the molds I created to make the cast and carve chocolates in my instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/Carve-an-cast-chocolate-treets/ It means you don't have to go through the pesky business of carving or making our own molds to end up with some fun chocolates.. or you could use something like plaster and end up with some nice casts.
Topic by world of woodcraft 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Anyone help me here..I have a wax master of a signet ring. If i use lost wax casting i will lose my original....This i do not want. Is there a mould making stuff that i can press the ring into leaving a negative to fill with silver.....
Topic by maninamousesuit 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi I want to make a daruma doll. Like in the video. How do you cast pulp into a hollow item? like in the video? Its pretty cool how they make them. ANybody do anything like this? I don't want to papermache with newspaper I want to make it like in the video.
Question by undftdking 8 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
I do not like the factory seasoning on a cast iron skillet I have. Should I season over it or remove the factory black, nasty crap and season on my own from scratch? It's a shame how poorly companies, even good ones like Lodge have such poor quality seasoning on their products.
Question by dkop1 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I´m on a budget and looking for a compound that can either be poured into a mould like plaster or is at least very soft and hardens in a short time without massive shrinking. (low temperature melting metals -> too heavy, plaster -> not rigid and hard enough, epoxy -> too expensive)
Question by Fypsigon 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Next weekend, I'll be going on a campout with my boy scout troop. (Nothing new to me). As every year, we will be having a mock "Iron Chef" competition. A charcoal pit will be provided for the cooking, as will some cast iron dutch-ovens. I would like to bring my own fry pan however. I am debating whether to bring a stainless or cast iron. I have both, and am fairly well able to cook with both. (besides my horrible cooking skills.) However, I'd like to see some suggestions, and here some viewpoints on the matter. I am not certain if we will be allowed the use of our propane stoves or not.
Question by dkop1 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
For my woodshop class I am making a cane/"pimpstick" and I am making a custom head for it. I want to cast it in aluminum using the lost wax technique. would normal plaster of paris be a good material to use for the mold? the peice is about 3 cubic inches. I was thinking about having two "fires" one to heat my aluminum and another to heat the mold so it doesnt shatter. Is that workable? P.S. It would be a one use thing so no need for anything expensive. I have literally 10 dollars to spend on this. Thankyou, bud
Question by budhaztm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Need some ideas:I have an antique wooden chest of drawers. Most of the wooden molding around the top and bottom is long gone, BUT I do have two original sample pieces. They are a pretty intricate design and there is no way I'll find anything like them today. So I thought I'd make a mold and cast some to replace the missing wooden strips. I smeared up the thin wood strips with Vaseline and pressed them into plaster of parís. Well the mold turned out fine, but now I am struggling with what to use for a casting material. I tried plaster of parís, it was to fragile. I tried painters caulk, but it was too flexible and looked like heck. Thought about mixing sawdust and glue, but am pretty sure the texture will be wrong and grainy. It needs to be stain-able so I can make it look like it's wood and semi rigid so I can get it out of the mold. Any suggestions??
Question by john043 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
I'm trying to cast some resin claws for a halloween/convention costume I'm trying to make ( it isn't a Wolverine one .. more a VERY twisted, evil, and blood thirsty Mad Hatter character ) and running into a bit of trouble. I'm following the 5 drops of hardener per 1 oz of resin that is stated on the resin can's instructions. It also says it's supposed to set hard enough to support objects at 40 minutes. I mixed a 2oz batch of resin ( 10 drops of hardener ) and poured it into a rubber latex lined plaster mold that I had sprayed with mold release. I put a bolt down partly into the resin so I can later attach a wire to it and left it alone for about an hour to an hour and a half. I came back to check on it and the bolt was still able to be moved/removed with NO resistance. I figured the mix was bad and threw it out, but noticed it was the consistancy of slime. Did I mess it up and not wait long enough, or did I not add enough hardener or what ? Any suggestions would be great!
Question by Myrr 9 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am attempting to create large molds/casts of trash bags. the goal is to create a life-size trash bag made of sawdust. I'm not even sure where to begin. i'm not sure if i could create a mold of a bag somehow or if i could fill a bag and go from there. i know wood glue won't dry in a large mass, so i'm not sure what materials i should use.
Question by ChristieS35 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
My kiln is on the fritz, I need to cast a piece but I don't have time to wait for the new kiln to arrive. Does anybody know of any UK companies to whom I can send a carved wax piece and have it cast in precious metal? Thanks in advance.
Question by alexhalford 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hello, Does anyone know of a clear casting resin that when cured is also machinable? I have an idea for a project that involves encasing objects in resin and then using power tools, milling machines, lathes, etc. to partially expose the object by cutting though it and the casting. Any thoughts on what resin to use and where it can be purchased? Thanks!
Topic by WaffleM 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have a 3D model that I would like to have printed so I can use it as a cast for a pewter mold. It is a simple pin that I designed in 3DSMax.. Would the cast have to be metal, or is there some plastic/poly that would take the heat of molten pewter? I don't want to have to pay a jeweler to do this, I already have the model in 3D, it seems like it should be easy to print a cast so I can make them myself..
Topic by 3DPiper 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I'm doing lost wax casting for a glass mold. I'm using parrafin wax to get the shape of it, but I was wondering what i could use to melt the wax out of the plaster of Paris once it's hardened. Also any advice regarding the whole lost wax process would be helpful!
Topic by Ehamby1219 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I am looking at the cheapest way to begin casting pewter with the lost wax casting or with creating rtv silicone molds and it looks like dental wax is generally the same as jeweller's wax. I would like to know if this product looks suitable for carving for lost wax casting: http://dentala2z.co.uk/PRE10379/en I would of course melt it to make blocks to carve from. It looks like it would do the job, carving wax seems to be really expensive in whatever form. Im also looking at using silicone and corn starch. thank you
Topic by lsadwdwadw 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I've been trying to find a thorough and detailed introduction to casting in Bondo for a while but have found nothing definitive. Could someone make a beginners guide for using Bondo to make replicas and casts w/ Pictures?
Topic by kojimagtr 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hullo, just had a call from my mate who wants to do abit of pewter casting, now he had a very specific question about molds and the silicone to use, I had a look round but no one mentions a particular sort, I thought all silicone is silicone ... but decided to bring the question to the experts To make a silicone mold, for pewter casting, what sort of silicone should my friend use? He shall be making a belt buckle from what i gather. Thanks chaps Biggsy
Topic by Biggsy 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi. I'm pretty new to delft clay casting. I make my models out of sculpey clay.2 problems I'm having: 1: sometimes the clay sticks to the model in the fine details (small letters, curves, etc) 2: takes SEVERAL attempts to get a good pour to fill the mold. I'm making several air holes and a pretty good size pour gate/channel. Any advice? Thanks
Question by bdanielpa2019 2 months ago | last reply 2 months ago
Is there any reliant and consist way to create high RPM gears using 3D prints? What I had planned to do is 3D print some gears out, make silicon molds out of them and then pouring wax in the silicon molds. I then would put the wax into sand and then pour molten aluminum into it. To me, it sounds good in theory but I thought somebody else might have tried making PLA 3D prints into metal.
Topic by rexdino5 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hey everyone, I can't imagine that this question hasn't been asked before, but I must be using the wrong keywords. I used a small electric crucible (for lead and pewter) to heat up pewter and pour it into a coin shaped plaster mold. Truthfully, I'm pretty pleased with the level of detail, but I've got some 'burned' colored discoloration on the coins. I've tried gently washing with soap and water which got off some of it. 1) am I doing something wrong to produce that coloring? 2) will silver polish clean it up, or will it damage the pewter? (almost certain it will be fine, but thought I'd double check) Should I just be scrubbing harder with soap and water? For whatever reason, the image uploader isn't working. I'll try to get one into the comments after I post this. many thanks!
Topic by oldmicah 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.
I want to reproduce a bit of jewellery I have designed in pewter by using a 2-part RTV silicone mould. By all accounts it is possible but I've run into some problems when sourcing materials. Most high temperature silicones I have come across state a maximum temperature of 250°C, But pewter has a melting point of around 280°C. My feeling is that the mould itself will most likely never actually reach 280°C and will probably only be above 250°C for a short period of time. But I'm wondering if anyone has actually done this and could verify for me. Also as I'm new to the whole process, any other tips are welcomed. This is the high temp silicone I'm currently looking at. Thanks, -Tom
Topic by madmanmoe64 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Question by ChaoticScientist 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Monday foundry is a small jobbing foundry meaning we take in any small work and some larger. if you would like to have a part cast for something just ask ( motor houseings and other motor castings, custom tools, ect castings are NOT machined unless asked for; cost of machineing is almost double the cost of the part, (unless its as simple as drill a hole aka)
Topic by Danielro10 10 years ago
Question by sreenvas 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
My mum's in the process of making a lot of clear cast jewellery and is having trouble sanding imperfections down and then getting them back up to a good shine, as they're transparent it does need to be a good clear finish...
Question by killerjackalope 9 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I know that oogoo outgasses acetic acid, how bad is that to have on your skin? Would it be possible to coat the skin first with something like liquid glove or baking soda, to counteract the acetic acid? Thanks for any info
Question by foobear 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Project Runway is now casting for its 8th season! Do you have what it takes to make it work? Strut your stuff on TV and get the entire Instructables community behind you to vote for your creations. Find out more about the process here and get your applications in by April 22 - there's no time to lose! Don't forget to share your awesome audition videos with us in the forums. via: Bunim/Murray Productions
Topic by scoochmaroo 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
We have our own homegrown substitute for Oomoo thanks to the local boy genius Mikey77 But is there any substitute for it's companion product, the very expensive ($100/gallon), two part liquid plastic stuff called "Smooth-Cast 300"? Does anyone know of a way to mix an inexpensive something up and pour it into a mold and have it harden up into a strong thing? It doesn't have to be as invincible as Smooth-cast, but .. is plaster the only option? Update: What am I casting? I found a really great ornamental tile at Habitat for Humanity and want to make copies of it Update: I'm wondering now, what if I used something from the wall/flooring department, like Mastic? Its about $34 for two or three gallons. It fills gaps and hardens to such a degree that it can't be chiselled easily. I may try this. Update: Tried mastic, it works but takes far too long to dry, on the order of three days or longer... Maybe if I mixed in some corn starch (ala oogoo?) Thank you -foo
Question by foobear 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have a few antique tin moulds that make a variety of leaf shapes and wanted to frame them. I was thinking of making a cast from the mould to go along with the mould itself to demonstrate what the outcome would be from these molds. As the pieces are antiques (I inherited them from a Great Grandmother) I was not wanting to do any permanent damage to them such as having a resin stick to or dye the tin. Does anyone have a favourite over-the-counter product or a homemade resin idea? I've thought of polymer clay, liquid resin, and plaster. Not sure what would be the best to use. Each have their pros and cons. I was thinking it would be neat to use a homemade recipe as it would have a neat DIY/handmade/antique feel. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated :)
Question by shoebox 8 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi I am interested in using silicon molds for jewelry and other "craft" projects. From reading your site, I learned that this could be done w/o worrying about the resin sticking to the mold if you use a non polyester clear casting resin. Since I am new to this whole arena, I wanted to know where I could purchase such a product. Thank you. MGW
Topic by mgw 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Hi I'm making my first plastic resin cast and the mold for it using the tutorial here: http://www.b9robotresource.com/plastic_casting1.htm One difference to that tutorial however is that the object I am making a mold of is something I've make in air-dry modelling clay. I've spent quite a bit of time making the original so bit worried about pouring the silicone for the mold onto the clay object - will it break the clay down or is there some way to prepare the clay (varnish or something?). I've put a test of dried clay in water and it has broken down in five minutes. Can anyone who has done this sort of thing before advise please? Thanks in advance. Garrett
Topic by garrettlynch 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Welding cast iron to mild steel is for the most part done with ornamental iron such as gates and fences. the ornaments are typicaly cast iron such as spearpoints and fit over the top of what ever square tubing size ect you are working with. If you weld say with a mig welder in the normal mannor you rweld will cold roll and ball on you leaving a poor appearance that you will have to spend time grinding to make look good. Fortunatly it is not a matter of strenght or how much penetration ect. It is just ornamentation but must look good. Now take your mig welder with say 035 wire and use pure argon..(less spatter). Turn your welders heat up somewhat past what your normanl setting would be for what ever thickness you are using. Use breif spot welding like techniques overlapping as needed. You will find that this makes a good wash bead with no undercut or cold roll. The argon gas helps to keep down all the extra spatter welding cast iron to mild steel seems to cause. Larger peices such as caps for say 4by4 gate posts or fence posts, i preheat as uniformely as possibly to just under cherry red then weld as described. It welds badly because cast iron is actualy dirty, literaly with particles of dirt in the cheap castings, wich the ornaments are. Not haviong the need to be anealed or nodular for instance. If the welds are not going to show then you dont have to do this. It will still weld, just do not expect the clean perfect welds you are used to. And NO I do not have PICS AND I dont own a digital camera nor do i know how to use one let alone put them on a computer.
Topic by beserker 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
My dad and I go deer hunting, and just today my dad got a small 5-point buck. When we went to get it cleaned, we asked to keep the antlers with a small region of the skull (skullplate) attached. I have it outside currently so that the remaining hide and can dry. They look pretty good, and I wanted to make a reproduction of them by making a mold. I've never made a mold before in my life, so I don't know what to use. I thought about Plaster of Paris, but I don't have any. I know it's made of gypsum, and I could get some of that from spare drywall. I'm really confused about it. If anybody has any suggestions, I'd love to hear them. Thanks!
Topic by Bran 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
It's expensive, untested and dangerous.The idea goes like this. Start with a coffee can foundry, possibly powered with Biodiesel or Propane. Then design a mold for what you want to build using Autocad or some variant thereof. After it's finished, send the design to a machine shop to have it built out of steel. When you receive the permanent mold, melt the aluminum and pour into the mold repeatedly and often.The idea seems like a good one to me, I'll be testing it soon enough using common screw clamps to keep the mold tightly secure.Has anyone here done this? The closest I've come to doing it myself is pouring into a muffin tin.The photo below is a picture of the results which was taken from another board found here, you'll need a login, the photos are located in the forum under Machining and Tooling.Give me a shout if you dig the idea.UPDATE 5/24/07It works! Using my Harbor Freight Mini-Mill I cut out pockets in two pieces of 1018 steel, each about an inch deep, and four inches across. I then cut inlets in both pieces and welded some scrap steel U channel on the tops of both mold sections to form a pool enclosure for the excess aluminum to collect inside of and stay safely contained.Then I lit the candle on my foundry and melted the aluminum while at the same time pre-heating the molds, (connected using C-clamps) in the oven. When the aluminum melted, I poured it and it instantly solidified. After about 2 minutes of running around in a panic I cracked the mold open. The detail level is incredible. Impressions made in the mold with a fly-cutter can be seen in the casting. The casting is bright, shiny, and seemingly devoid of any burs usually associated with unfinished aluminum castings.I'll provide photos later of the test mold and casting.
Topic by Inspiracy 12 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
Need help finding a particular instructable, friends. I would almost bet body parts that I saw an instructable here that had the following process to it for making a custom fantasy coin or medallion: Use the underside bottom of a paper coffee cup-mix up a portion of Bondo and fill the bottom recess with it. When Bondo hardens, pop out the round disc, paste a paper disc onto it then draw out your coin or medallion design. Carve out your design with a dremel or similar, make a silicone putty mold, then when mold is dry, pour pewter or zinc to make a custom coin. Darken and polish. I know I've seen it, I'm wanting to stick it in my favorites list so I don't lose it again, and I especially want to thank the author for coming up with such a simple process for a custom medallion. Can anyone help me?
Topic by pheenix42 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
If you happen to have a some what rare car, or one that is simply thirty or more years old, you may find that if you ever crack your manifold exauhst that you can not get another by simply going to a (pick and pull) So, the first thought is..most of the time, "I will simply zap it with NIRod". WRONG! an old manifold that has repeatedly heated and cooled is very brittle and the sudden change in temp and too rapid cooling may crack it even more. Now what i do is use bare bronze rod and braze the crack. Here is how i do it. First I find the ends of the cracks and drill a 1/4 hole half way through the material at each end of the cracks. Next I use a rose bud torch and heat up the cast iron as evenly as possible peening with a hammer lightly to releive stress in the casting. After about five minutes of this I quickly switch to a oxy-actl. brazing tip and start my pass. The first thing i do is heat up as much of the crack as i can to cherry red and sear one coat of bronze using plenty of flux. Then I start at one end of the crack and fill in the crack that i had previously veed out with a grinder to half way of the depth of the material and no more than 1/4 inch wide. I use an overlapping spot weld like technique. i lay a small amount of bronze, remove heat for a second and overlapp where i left out. When done I have a bronze brazing weld with no undercut or cold roll. Then i use the rose bud again for some post heating gradulay reducing the heat and peening with hammer again. Then I quickly take the whole peice and cover it in powdered lime so that it cools very slowly. This will stop it from cracking due to rapid cooling. Also it may put some ductility in the cast iron. It takes about four hours to be cool enough to touch with the bare hand. Then I grind the bronze weld flush and inspect the weld to see if i got proper bonding, all you should see is a ribbon of nbronze that has no porosity or cavities. I have also done rare boat manifolds like this when repeative NIRod was used at other shops and they broke every time. Still no 100 percent with cast iron like this. Sometimes it just cracks more, after all it is a dirty porous metal that is very brittel. Anyway, i have had very good luck doing it this way
Topic by beserker 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago