I need to find a way to light 20 paper lanterns hung from a gymnasium ceiling. I need to accomplish this without having 20 cords hanging down. I'm a novice. This is for my daughters wedding.
Question by knocky70 | last reply
I recently bought a 50s house and there is no light fixture for the living room or the den and the venting makes it difficult for someone to come in and install wiring. So... does anyone have a good DIY lighting idea where I could hang a big light and run the cord along the ceiling/wall to plug it in?
Topic by sarajo | last reply
This could become an instructable, but these days, juggling photo files from cell phone to email to comp to ibles is so dang cumbersome.. anyway, this is how i fixed ceiling fan. fan has a rubber plate between motor and blades. apparently a bit of wiggle room for blades is a desirable thing. but that rubber plate was cracking. the fan blades had begun to hang low and drag against the light fixture below em. so i removed the lights that hang below fan. removed all 5blades, blasted dust off rubber plate with compressed air, and used used gel superglue from loctite brand to glue cracks in rubber plate. i specifically got glue in a tube, not a bottle, since ihad to apply it upwards. i never removed fan motor from ceiling, so, the work was overhead. the glue says its good for rubber, and so far, it has held up. the fan is reassembled, and working again.
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
I bought this ceiling light: http://www.diy.com/departments/colours-cantemir-ceiling-light/234751_BQ.prd As you can see from the picture, it seems to fit fairly snug to the ceiling. However, when I got it home I found that the cable length was slightly more than a metre! I mean, who has ceilings that high? Anyway, I thought it would be no problem just to cut the cable down and refit it into the ceiling rose. My wife pointed out that the instructions say, "Caution! The length of the cable cannot be altered." The fitting has 4 x led bulbs. Can anyone tell me if there could be a problem if I shorten the lead? Frankly, otherwise I will take it back for a refund.
Topic by Pateesh | last reply
Can anyone help me in designing and building lights for a wood workshop? 24x24, 10 ft ceilings, switched outlets on ceiling. Have been doing quite a bit of research, but unable to figure it out for sure. Was thinking 50W LED. Would 4 give enough light for that size?
Topic by MattB144 | last reply
Hi, I tried posting this already but then couldn't find it so I hope I am not posting twice... I fell in love with this ceiling fan (http://www.wayfair.com/Minka-Aire-Twin-Gyro-6-Blade-Turbofan-F502-BCW-MKA1488.html) which I can't attach properly to show the image because the uploader doesn't work (either of them) on my computer. Problem is that the fan is over $800! I'd like to combine a bunch of pieces and make something like this out of old desk fans and a nice light fixture (or something I can turn into a nice light fixture) to both save money and spare our landfill. Thing is, although I get lamps and they are very easy, once you add moving parts I am scared sh!tle$$! I figure there has to be someone out there who knows if it is even possible to recreate this at home. Thanks Joelle
Topic by Cleo420 | last reply
Hello, I fell in love with the twin-blade ceiling fan pictured at the link below (for some reason the uploader doesn't work in either form for me) , but at over $800 I hate the price tag. I would like to try and DIY something like this for my new house, but I do not have the electrical knowledge to do it alone. I figure that if I can find two second-hand desk fans and wire them into a nice light fixture I could get the look I want without the price, but I need to know how to do so safely. I wouldn't want an electrical fire to burn down my new home! http://www.wayfair.com/Minka-Aire-Twin-Gyro-6-Blade-Turbofan-F502-BCW-MKA1488.html If anyone knows how to get these things all wired right it would be a great help! Joelle
Topic by Cleo420 | last reply
The light kit is hard wired to the fan. It is a two wire light and the there are no connections to separate, the wire is directly wired to the fan. usually there are wire nut connectors which are simple to remove and replace with new switch. This fan has no such connectors. one wire is soldered directley to fan motor and the other end is solder to the light assembly. Is there any way to repair this , or at least to turn the light on. The wires fit extremely tightly into the the little light kit, there is no room whatever to work with . any suggestions?
Question by yelgab | last reply
I'm trying to light a desk surface from the ceiling about 6 ft above the desk. Not sure if light type makes a difference either - trying to use a natural light LED. Thanks! Kory
Question by sk888smooth | last reply
Is there any way of connecting multiple fluorescent light bulbs *THIS* to 1 power plug....i'm a newb, so if this is pretty complicated, i'm gonna need some articles :) the reason i ask this is because i'm thinking about constructing a (full room) black light in it's own sweet casing. it would go around my whole room around the perimeter (around the upper edge, touching the ceiling) so ya...i have enough construction knowledge to build the casing and everything else, BUT i do not know hardly anything about electrical stuff...which is why i have you guys :) so ya...any help (or different solutions other than light bulbs) would be greatly appreciated. thanks :)
Question by miqt | last reply
I want to light my room's ceiling edge with led lights which can change colors using a switch. I am not so good with electronics, except for basic stuff!! SO would like a nice and elaborated guide to build this. Thanks.
Question by CeramicPlate | last reply
Can i use fan blade as light weight helicopter blade or there is a difference in their design
Question by MuhammadK19 | last reply
I'm wondering if taking an LED Light bulb that is meant to go in the ceiling of a house (made to run on AC) and sticking it on a battery, will it still work? Will it be just as bright on a 12 or 24V battery as it would be in a 230v ceiling of a house? I would assume it has a rectifier and the DC current should just pass through and light the LED's am I correct?
Question by flyinfinn | last reply
Hello. I have an apartment with no ceiling lights. I want to reroute electricity from the outlets to the ceiling. Is there anyway I can do this without breaking the wall or using molding? I basically want to get my wires together, electric tape them in place, plaster and paint over them. I was told to do it with surface wires but i cant find any more info. Help!
Topic by NataliN | last reply
I would like to install about 9-16 LEDs in my garage ceiling for lighting. I want to be able to press a button to switch the lights on and off, as well as have a motion sensor that will be able to turn them on when i drive into the garage or walk into the garage. I want to cut relatively small holes in the sheetrock in the ceiling for each LED fixture and then have all of the wiring be in above the ceiling. I can follow directions really well, and have basic knowledge of LED technology. I do not know which LEDs are the correct ones to use, if I need a fixture or not, how to wire them all, what type of motion sensor to use, and what type of switch to use. Also, what is the best way to power my lights? I would like to connect them to a regular power line from in the attic, but am unsure what I would need to make that work. I assume I could tap into the power line that connects to a few plugs in the garage, or even disable the current single bulb light and use that connection. Running the wires and making my way through the insulation won't be a problem. Thanks for the help on my project! I'll definitely post pics and show how I did it once I'm done. --quick thought... maybe a dimmer-motion sensor light switch (lutron?) would work for the controls?
Topic by polomaan | last reply
How can i make a light to give off a lotta lite in my 14 ' tall art studio? of what can i use?
Question by annbachmann | last reply
In my daughter's house (in South Carolina) her outlets and lights are on the same 15 amp circuit. I installed an outlet with built-in usb ports. She has her Fire Stick plugged into one of the usb ports. Her ceiling fan is controlled by a wall switch knob with OFF, MAX, HI, MED, LOW options. When she turns the ceiling fan from one option to another, the Fire Stick cycles off and then back on. Any suggestions? Thank you.
Question by lindabluffton | last reply
I would like to have a motion sensor in my room that would turn on my ceiling lights and last for an hour. benefits: Never forgetting to turn the lights off, not wasting time in my room, taking breaks from computers and saving money.
Question by Houdinipeter | last reply
Hello, Me and my girlfriend live in this old apartament building build around 1910. one of the rooms in our apartament is lacking lighting. and id have a light socket that id like to install. below im attaching images of the place in the ceiling where the light should be. the wires of the light socket i have got does not have any coloring. there are 2 silver wires wrapped in transparent plastic sleeves. one of the sleeves has a small bump on it. there is no writing. i tried to follow some instruction materials but cant reason much through it. in that room there is a box to turn the light on, and a plug socket. the wire from it goes to middle of the room with this space for light which is on the picture. then from there another second wire to plug socket at the end of the room. i already know that i need to turn off electricity in the house and about safety. i tried to wire the socket based on instructions found elsewhere first but there was still no light in the room. the plug sockets in the room work without any problems. i appreciate all the help. thanks a lot.
Topic by adriandwor | last reply
Hello There :) I have this concept: A wall to ceiling light that consists of several segments that are lit with rgb leds. I want it to have two modes - VU meter mode and rgb mode (goes through rainbow of colours) I know how to do each separately: -VU meter - There is an instructable I can follow -RGB mode -Using shift registers etc.. But I don't know how to incorporate them together. Can I use a shift register and an arduino (through PWM) to give functionality of both settings I would like? Thanks, Joe
Question by joearkay | last reply
I want to make a plate/bowl with mirors that reflect the light to a certain point.if i put the ceiling lamp on and use that light to aim all the mirrors to one point. wil it work in the sun too ?
Question by rabarbarbaar! | last reply
I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
In Most European palaces and castles, it is common to find the ceilings decorated with ornate gilded woodwork and elaborate frescoes. In Brussels, Belgium, one particular hall in the Royal Palace has a very peculiar ceiling that is decorated with very strange items. The hall's ceiling, which has remained unfinished since 1909, was redecorated by the contemporary Belgian artist Jan Fabre. Fabre was inspired by Sternocera aequisignata, a type of jewel beetle of the Buprestidae family, which has a shimmering green iridescent shell. Fabre and 30 other diligent artist armed with a truck-full of beetle shells and glue, transformed the empty ceiling into one bejeweled with a sea of swirling and twinkling green. The team also went to work on the center chandelier in the hall, turning it from gilded gold to sparkling green. As one gazes up at the masterpiece from the floor, the whole mass of shells appears to move as the light reflects from different angles.Jan Fabre calls the the ceiling Heaven of Delight, as a reference to ''The Garden of Earthly Delights'' by early Netherlandish painter Hieronymus Bosch ( a personal favorite of mine). The green shells do indeed add a great amount of energy to the once bland and vacant hall. 1.6 million beetle shells were used. The beetles, which are wood-boring and are mostly considered a pest, appears abundantly in India, Thailand, and Vietnam. They are sometimes cooked and eaten, however their beautiful shells are discarded.LinkTranslated Original
Topic by Skyfinity | last reply
I want to fit a chandelier, I made at home, with either LEDS, if they can produce enough light to fill a small room, or Compact fluorescent bulbs. How do connect various bulbs to one cord that can be wired into the ceiling and plugged into an outlet. As a side question are lights that are wired into the wall just electrical cord plugs with the head stripped off?
Question by puregoldner | last reply
I have 4 rooms and each have a light fixture and a switch controlling each of the lights. . The power source from the electrical panel is entering the 1st light fixture and then to each of the other light fixtures. I am using 12/2 with a ground Romex wire. There are only 3 wires in the Romex. One is white, one is black, and one is bare. Please tell me which wires connect to each other in the octagon boxes in the ceiling where the light fixtures are and which wires connect in the respective switch box. Please use wire colors(white, black, bare)when explaining the wires that will connect. No need to explain the "bare wire" connections because I will connect all of them together back to the panel and from there to ground. Thanks for your help! Louisiana bayou backdoor
Topic by themanpan68 | last reply
Who else uses CFL ( Compact fluorecent Lightbulb) I my self replaced all my rooms light with them, so 4 bulbs in total. They sell them at Sams club, 8 CFL units that replace 60 watt bulbs for about $10. Instead of using 60 watts they only use 13, also they do not get as hot making your room cooler in the wee hours of the morning. Im not sure if they sell them for the smaller bulbs like the skinny ones ceiling fan, because thats the kind of bulbs we have on our wall. I decided not to use that light for now. Most of all the light bulbs in our house are fluorecent, except the bathrooms, a few lights we use rarely and the 3 different intensity bulbs. Who else uses CFL and if you don't, do you want to switch?
Topic by acer73 | last reply
I think this would be very popular in smaller rooms (or one in which you don't want a sagging clothesline running through your field of vision). I would like to hang a sturdy, pipe-like structure (so no sagging under light to medium weight) that I could pull down on a retractible cord/pipe/other to hang coat hangers of washed tee shirts to dry and then retract back up out of the way while drying or not in use. When I was a kid in the 60s we had a ceiling lamp above a table that worked like this; when you were working on something you could just pull it down (click click click) to however close to the table you wanted, then back up out of the way when you were done. This idea would be hung from 2 spots on the ceiling with some kind of mechanism that would allow for pull-down access and then push up storage; some type of pipe suitable for holding clothes hangers would be strung up at both ends and mounted to the ceiling. The "pipe" would then hang level when use at an accessible height, and the "push up" to hang level, closer to the ceiling. Ideally this would be not too heavy as I have smashed my dominant-hand wrist and have limited strength as a result. Help me Mr. Robots! Help!
Topic by 008cats. | last reply
Ok, guys I am planning my next house. I want to build a metal single level kit house over a basement.Like most of you, I can't leave well enough alone. I am always thinking about change, i.e. put up a ceiling fan, add recessed lighting, drop a new ethernet line where I need it, etc. So in thinking about the walls and ceiling of the new house I want your input.First I was thinking of making the interior wall height 10', then I can install a drop ceiling at what every level I want. Later, i can change the drop ceiling at will. Above the drop ceiling, on the underside of the rafters, insulate with rigid foam insulation (maybe the top side of the rafters?).Next the walls. I plan to spray foam insulation between the 24" studs. Drywall seems to be too permanent. What could I put up, durable enough for the occasional bumps when installing furniture, but could be removed if something needs to be added behind it? I have a thought about putting up a shelving system, but that wouldn't work on every wall. Again, I appeal to the hive mind for suggestions.Help a DIY addict,Ralph
Question by Manassasralph | last reply
I haven't had the pleasure of working with EL wire, only because I can't discover a sleek and not so damaging way of mounting it. I don't want to leave holes in my wall, and I don't want to destroy it. At the same time, I also want to mount it in the interior of my car, but the same problem arises. How can I mount the EL wire on my wall and on my car ceiling? Adhesive maybe?
Question by Prestond | last reply
I already have sky lights installed in an unfinished attic. I figure I could try lining some heating duct with some of those Mylar emergency blankets, butt it up against the skylight and then install a modified recessed light fixture in the ceiling. Connect the tube to the light fixture and it should work the same as the $300 units. I understand the effect the dome could have on collecting light, I do have some security camera domes, but don't want to go cutting holes in the roof unless it will work. ???anyone Thanks
Topic by meisjedog | last reply
Its a very low ceiling. I have some translucent colored vellum (8.5x11). There are several bare lights. My housemates and I want to make a living area down there, there are some couches and a carpet. The walls are stone/concrete (unfinished). General decorating tips are also welcome. I was thinking about star shaped covers, or pin prick art, or something.
Question by wearingpink | last reply
I have some x-mas lights(the incandescent kind, not LEDs) hanging on the ceiling in my bedroom but they are a little too bright sometimes, so I thought it would be fun to attach some sort of dimmer switch to them. Do I need anything special or can I just hook up any old potentiometer I can find in my junk bin?
Topic by cannedham160 | last reply
I'm getting married in September and I want a night sky projected on the tent at my wedding. I love the images from Harry Potter in the Great Hall (I know that it won't look exactly like it because of the tent angles). The tent is a 40'X40' open sided. I only care that the upper half is projected. The bottom edge surrounding the tent is going to have string lights wrapped in grapevines possibly with wisteria and amaranthus hanging from it. Does anyone have any ideas on how to make this work, and how to rig the projectors to the tent ceiling poles?
Topic by lpfan3217 | last reply
I am still living from boxes after moving house but I came to a small batch of very impressive UV active powder. This new kind glows in the dark for at least a full night with good visability and usally it sold with the color name "auqa blue" - just don't be fooled by the old style pigments that only lasted for a fe minutes, I am taking about hours here.... The images and videos I tried with my SLR and phone are all terrible, seems they don't really like UV light :( My thought was something like this: Having a sufficient amount of pigment in the top coat of the wall or ceiling paint to allow for a nice glow. Either on floor or ceiling level a row of UV LED's to allow for a quick charge of the pigments, or as an alternative once technology has caught up EL panels in the UV range with a pigment coating. An area of 5x2cm is already enough as a "reading light" for several hours or to illuminate a map during night time hiking trips. Also with the long after glow it would be quite possible to use "light transmission". Here you have acrylic sheets on the outside walls or roof catching the light and transporting it to the inside. So you could use natural light during the day that would also charge the pigments on wall or ceiling. Of course this is not really feasable for home use unless you don't require any sleep but tunnels, bunkers, mines and such could benefit especially if using fibre optics to "transport" the light to where it is needed. Another great idea (at least I think it is) would be to use these pigments on footpaths and sporting grounds. Imagine a footpath that glows at night and illuminates where you go! Or imagine a big factory during a power outage at night having clear walkways to direct the workers showing up all of a sudden on the floor... Some quality pigments still allow for over 200 lumens after 60 minutes of recharge - this is in the region of a low power LED of modern technology. I don't think a topic like this will qualify for a best answer but I would love to hear your thoughts and ideas on the topic of these modern after glow pigments.....
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Hi,I need help on what and how to achieve the following:I want to use led's to create an indoor ceiling lamp in the configuration as shown on the attached image. This consists of either self constructed strips (or bought strips //sources in the uk would be appreciated) of Leds, which even with my pitiful knowledge of electronics and components, I know, requires 12 VDC. As it is an indoor light in will run from a uk mains of 230Volts. So how can I safely rig this light, with the voltage difference?What I need to know is 'What' components I need to set this configuration. I found this web page,but not being electronics savy, I dont really get the jist, apart from a capacitor and resistor is required. see (http://www.marcspages.co.uk/tech/6103.htm).I need to know what I need of what, and at what resistances etc? and'How' to wire it all together, in laymen fashion please!!Also, I have shown a total of 21 LED's in my image, but this is not set and could very to 4/9 a strip. I just want to cover a distance of 20cm. again sources on pre-built strips/kits would be cool.many thanksDan
Topic by danskimanuk | last reply
I finished two bathroom reno's with the exception of the shower ceiling light. I started off by cutting 3 1/4: square 304 stainless steel plates and drilled out 4 holes in each for the rgb. Then assembled the rgb's into the housings and sealed them with hot glue. Then figured out the resistors based on 12 V which if memory serves me right they were 470 ohms and soldered them in parallel. Then I soldered the connectors and hot glued them so they wouldn't come in contact with each other. After installing the ceiling tiles I drilled 2 1/4" wide X 2½" deep holes through the kerdi membrane and sealed a plastic cover with foam insulation in the attic. Then I roughed in rgb cable from one hole to the other, with a home run to the controller. I tried doing a rough in trial run and it worked until one of the rgbï¿½s burned out since they came in contact wth each other. I could actually hear it fizzle. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can make this work or are there retrofit rgb units that will fit the opening without breaking the bank? Each bathroom has 6 rough openings. That would make it 6 x 2 = 12. I'd like them to be rgb leds and be controlled via 12V adaptor and controller. If I need to start over again I have a budget of $150.00 if a another unit would work better. Thanks
Question by My Dream | last reply
I'm building a Christmas present for my 2 year old nephew... The goal is to build a monster trap for his room. My current plan calls for a large 2-3 ft. net, framed with a lightweight material, this would be attached to the ceiling of his bedroom by dad. In the apparatus that attached the net to the ceiling there is some form of 'quick release' mechanism that is triggered by some form of sensor hidden in a pillow, platform, cardboard box... a big stuffed banana -something that resembles monster bait. The physical parts of simple enough but I'm wondering what options I have for the sensor and quick release... I'm pretty handy with radio gear and fly quadcoptors so I'm pretty sure I can rassle up something.. Any ideas? Parts for Monster Trap: - one lg net, preferrably framed - radio controlled quick release - light sensor w/ radio transmitter - pillow or something to mount the light sensor in - screws to ceiling mount the net
Question by mrmartin79 | last reply
I wanted to replace the light bulbs in my ceiling with a LED Bawls bottle chandelier. I already know how to make the frame for it but was wondering if you guys could help me with the Wiring specifics, and how many LED's you think I need.
Topic by Wantedcriminal#0072 | last reply
Newbie here... greetings! I work in office building with about 20 guys, most heavy coffee drinkers... we have one-holer restroom which is located about 100 feet and around a corner from the area where the majority of the guys work. Needless to say 8 out of 10 times you make the journey to go to use the restroom, someone is in there with the door locked... leaving you constantly defeated and having to go badly.. I want to create a light or a signal viewable in our common room that would indicate when that bathroom is in use. There is one light switch in the bathroom which operates the overhead light and the fan... and the fan is extremely loud so we always turn the light off when exiting the bathroom. So my thought is to add some sort of transmitter to the switch that when turned on would send a signal to a receiver down the hall in the common room and that receiver would turn on a small light somewhere in the room. The guy next to me has a nice lava lamp and has volunteered it's services as the bathroom indicator. I'm hoping to find a transmitter or replacement switch/transmitter combo that can be wired into the existing single switch box (no batteries to change). This is what I need help locating. It would need to perform it's current duties.. turning on the light and fan, as well as send the "on" signal and "off" signal to the receiver 100 feet away. I think the other solution would be to run a wire thru the ceiling from the switch, but was hoping to avoid that. Thanks in advance for your help!
Topic by treetop1500 | last reply
I'm new to the world of LEDs, but have recently completed a DYI using Cree XR-E as eaves lighting outside my steel building. Comtemplating doing the same on my personal residence and was considering the 3W 3 LED ceiling downlight ac85-265 under the soffits of my home. These can be found in great abundance on EBAY for as low at $3.99 per unit (China made http://www.ebay.com/itm/Warm-White-3W-3LED-Recessed-Ceiling-Downlight-ac85-265V-Bulb-Lamp-wall-lamp-/110941027707?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D4640763913095912456%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D110941027707%26 ). My question is this: All the units I've looked at have attached LED resistors. However, I only want to use a 12 Volt power supply (meanwell) placing all units in series. What do I do with the resistors attached to the fixtures (LEDs)? Can I remove the LED resistors and attach 12 volt power supply directly to the 3 W fixture? Elementary question from an elementary low voltage guy. thanks for your responses in advance.
Question by soonerbliss1 | last reply
I have an emergency light in my room , the light turn on when blackout happen i wonder , can i make my room ceiling light like that ? when blackout happened , it's automaticaly switch to emergency power [ using deep cycle lead acid battery + inverter ] , but when electricity turn on again , the switch turn back using the normal electricity line , and charge the battery i have trouble design this , can somebody give me advice ? the power to handle is 220V , 500W thanks Jeffry
Topic by Lycrois | last reply
I am putting my christmas tree on the ceiling this year. But I want to make it rotate. The only problem is to get the lights to come on I have to plug it into the wall. How would I switch the tree from using ac power to battery power?
Question by viv664 | last reply
Hey all, been working out idea's for a project recently, and kind of stuck on one point. So the plan is to do up some automation in my basement. Right now I was starting with my desk, using a phidget usb relay controller to control desk lamps, move on to insteon for actual ceiling lights, but one thing I want to do would be passive control. So if the system detects me coming down the stairs it will turn on the ceiling lights, then when it detects me sitting at my computer the computer will log me in. I was thinking rfid, but not finding any hobby boards for rfid with ranges over a couple of centimeters. I know people have done this with bluetooth, but on testing my computer will connect to my phone if I'm just about anywhere upstairs above the computer and kills the point of this whole endeavor so any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Topic by Frentraken | last reply
I live in a rented attic flat and just before Christmas four of the ceiling halogen spot lights in my hall and livingroom blew. I called the landlord (he is an electrician) and he replaced them - then charged me £50! Two days later the same lights blew again. There seems to be condensation or something around a couple of the bulbs. (They are sunk in the ceiling.) The next day I went away for two weeks for Christmas, came back yesterday and this morning there was a 'pop' noise and all the five lights in my bedroom blew. (I hadn't just turned them on. They were already on.) I can't locate the fuse box and I am worried about an electrical fault causing a fire. It is a new flat (five years old, and the landlord did all the wiring - he is an electrical contractor.) I have to be out all day tomorrow, leaving my little dog there, and I am scared there will be a fire. I am going to speak to him tomorrow and try to get him to come and sort this out tomorrow night when I get in, but it took ages to get my landlord to come and sort the last thing out, I am living in semi-darkness, and I can't afford to pay hundreds of £ every time the bulbs go. I have only lived there three months. What should I do? Is it safe? I would feel better if I could turn everything off at the mains before going out tomorrow, but I don't know where the thing is to do this - and I don't want to meddle with stuff I know nothing about.
Question by Mandylou2014 | last reply
Ignoring the practicalitites of expense, chemicals etc, would it be possible to paint and ENTIRE room, or at least a whole ceiling, in glow-in-the-dark paint? I'm thinking what would it be like to have an off-the-grid room that would have a useable amount of light, using glow-in-the-dark paint, for say 4 hours after sunset. Can anyone find any pictures of a room painted like this?
Topic by trialex | last reply