Is it safe to heat ceramic bowls and cups and stuff on a hotplate or cooktop? Like plain white ceramic stuff. BTW: The piece in question is almost certainly stoneware, not porcelain or earthenware.
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
I'm in ceramics at my school and i was planning to make a lantern and wanted to make a handle for it. I was thinking of making a mold out of white talc and getting it fired. Then putting copper in the mold and firing it again. Is this idealistic, or better yet would it work?
Question by Klaudiuszm | last reply
Ok I will admit I haven’t really looked around the web too hard to find a solution for this but then why go to all that bother when I can give you guys the pleasure of flexing the knowledge muscles. I like a mug that is a bit of fun, I have Taz ones, Carry on movie ones, huge ones & now I have a saucy captains mug with a long row on rosy round bottoms on it. I have to use this particular mug at the moment because our new kitten 'ible loves to play on the window sill right alongside where my mug always sits while I am working on the laptop, the wide base of a captains mug is the only one in the house the kitten cannot tip over :-) The problem is that our stainless steel spoons leave unsightly grey marks on the glaze when the tea is stirred; I have tried removing them with a scourer to no avail & it now really getting on my pip :-( I know the chances are it is because of the inferior glaze on cheap mass produced ceramics but that doesn’t help me get rid of them. Any ideas folks?
Question by Nostalgic Guy | last reply
Question by TSna8 | last reply
I bought a really nice vintage cigar ashtray at an estate sale and I want to use it as a soap dish in my shower. Since it fills up with water as I shower I'd like to drill a hole or two in it to drain the water. The surface I would be drilling is only about 1/8 thick. Any suggestions on what kind of bit to use? I read that since it has a glaze I need a glass bit? Thanks.
Question by buffysissy1 | last reply
How to put digital pic's onto ceramic tiles..
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Hi all, I just came across this jewellery and the hardware intrigues me. What is involved in this process, and is it something that can be done on a small scale? And is it only appropriate for steel? Cheers! http://www.cha-o-ha.com/collections/frontpage/products/ceramic-coated-forged-d-shackle-dark-earth
Topic by jarris | last reply
I'm looking to bond a bifurcated ceramic fish figurine to a glass window, such that half the fish is outside (exposed to the elements) and half is inside the house. The fish figurine is not perfectly smooth, but it's close. I live in Ohio, so external temperatures will range from 0 f to 100 f. What do you recommend? B.
Question by rkgfish | last reply
I need to repair a standard ceramic coffee mug. It has broken, very cleanly, into 3 separate pieces. When complete it needs to be able to withstand typical daily uses i.e. a microwave, dishwasher, boiling water. Ideally the repair will be invisible. What is the best adhesive to use?
Question by bryanddom | last reply
I'm looking for a 20MHz ceramic resonator with build in load capacitors and I've got my decision narrowed down to two. One has an impedance of 50 ohms and the other (slightly more expensive) one has an impedance of 30 ohms. An Atmel ATMega168 is the processor in question if that matters.
Question by nolte919 | last reply
So, my grandfather accidentally broke my grandmother's favorite mug, and it shattered into too many pieces to be glued back together. I have a large chunk, but I would need to reconstruct the base with something. Is there a material that I could use (dishwasher safe) to re-form the bottom of the cup? I don't normally do this kind of stuff, but I'd like to do something here.
Question by Hjwenk | last reply
I think i blew out a cheap voice chance I have... can anyone verify that the capacitors I have circled are indeed blown... I've never looked before, and am not 100% sure the black isn't just a manufacturers marking. also, the caps are 20pF and 56pF and I need to replace them STAT... would Radio Shack's 100 pack capacitor grab bag have these numbers?
Topic by gschoppe | last reply
Hi there, I'm designing a vaping device which is Li-Ion battery powered and uses standard e-liquids (propylene glycol / vegetable glycol). The liquid would evaporate around 200 celsius and the heating element should attain this temperature within 1 second. Current methods use a coil with a liquid absorbing wire, which is not durable nor easy to reuse. I've been looking into ceramic heating elements but it's a forest of options out there, most of them becoming waaaaay to hot and/or needing a much higher voltage than a standaard Li-ion battery would provide at around 1100 Mah. So i've been thinking of building one, or having a prototype built for me. Problem is, i'm not 100% sure that a ceramic method would be the best way (so many options). Around the ceramic element (or on top if it is in disc form), i'd place a replaceable sock that can absorb the fluid and withstand excess heat (better than the standard kanthal / ekowool / etc.). This way the end user would only need to replace a sock after some time (for instance when changing fluids). It would also not burn and contaminate the liquid like current system do. Anybody have an idea? Regards, Bert
Question by bertbeukema | last reply
My sister's piggy bank broke and she is REALLY torn up about it (she got it forChristmas and she has broken a bunch of glass lately) and i want to fix it, it is mostly in large pieces, what adhesive, glue, filler, paint should I use? Please respond fast! Thanks! http://www.google.com/imgres?hl=en&safe;=off&sa;=X&biw;=1400&bih;=959&tbm;=isch&prmd;=imvns&tbnid;=Egziqd0BezZXkM:&imgrefurl;=http://www.ohdeedoh.com/ohdeedoh/decorative-accessories-pillows/ugly-dolls-can-save-your-pennies-142081&docid;=87LBDC8Zpw67qM&imgurl;=http://i-cdn.apartmenttherapy.com/uimages/ohdeedoh/032110-ugly.jpg&w;=540&h;=351&ei;=ThX9TrP6MM3sggerhr3iDA&zoom;=1&iact;=hc&vpx;=171&vpy;=479&dur;=1112&hovh;=181&hovw;=279&tx;=101&ty;=91&sig;=110872985198211297103&page;=1&tbnh;=118&tbnw;=181&start;=0&ndsp;=34&ved;=1t:429,r:14,s:0
Question by Zaphod Beeblebrox | last reply
I have a little ceramic figurine. IT'S LEFT wing (opposite of one shown) is broken and has been lost. Now, I want to somehow use IT'S RIGHT wing (pictured) to make another left wing for it, through casting, molding, clay baking, using foam or whatever. I don't have access to anything high tech. Basically foam, clay, etc. but no molten metals or anything. Any ideas? I mean, it would seem simple enough to just make a mould with the existing wing and use it as a mold to make a new one, but the wings are obviously mirror images of each other, so not only are they on the opposite side, they're sort of reflected. Here is the wing I have, I need to create the other. Thanks,
Question by macgyverunigrad | last reply
I've heard that you can use an unfinished ceramic tile as a pizza stone. I have not been able to find any unfinished ceramic tile anywhere. I figured a bunch of DIY folks like the ones here might know where I can get one. Does anyone know where I can get a 16"x16" unfinished ceramic tile? Thanks Rick
Topic by mrmath | last reply
I played around with ultrasonics now for a while and noticed that when it comes to certain things then logic seems no longer to apply.In the normal household you might find some ultrasonic cleaner and that's about it.A few people might have some distance measuring device or sensor array somewhere.As far as the normal human is concerned that is more than enough ;)Playing with certain metals like Bismuth or Gallium is not only but also a nice way to create nice alloys that you can play with even more.Take a portable and simple hydrogen supply as an example.Just make an alloy with lots of aluminium and a small amount of gallium.Cut it into strips, blocks or grind into a powder if you dare.Either way you just add water in a sealed container and get lots of pure hydrogen.The waste product is aluminium oxide, which has additional uses.The gallium itself is not affected by the reaction and can be reused many times.However, with some metals things are just different.As you might know it is hard to impossible to create certain alloys and other wouldn't make any sense.For example an alloy made from Calcium and iron...One of the big problems with alloys is that you need to have both metals in a molten form, then mix them properly and hope it turns out as planned.And well, if the metals in question just on't want to combine we cheat by using slats as a flux for example or by blowing hydrogen through the molten mix to act as a sacrificial binder until the metal cools down.Through ultrasonic cavitation we can not only clean surface, the same effect also destroys cells as the power from the implosion and the intense heat is more than what a cell can handle.There are even tests now to determine how safe and effective it would be to sterilise hospital equippment.A few seconds in an ultrasonic bath would safe the hours in the autoclave...On an industrial scale ultrasonic vibrations are used to weld plastic parts - like the head and tail lights on modern cars or just sealed plastic housings of any kind.With all this in mind my experiments with ultrasonic soldering made me wonder...Science papers state that that for example ceramics are not actually soldered.Appearently it is again hydrogen bonds provided by the ceramic or trapped air inside that provide the means to stick permantly.There is also an effect based on the implosion of the cavitation bubble.Here the solder literally is shot at well aboce ultrsonic speeds onto the surface of the ceramic.Together with the vacuum effect the solder is then pushed into the tiniest of cracks and cavities.Surface tension and other effects finally prevent the solder from just flowing off like it would do if we use just heat.What it means is that there is no real soldering at all happening.In reality it is like millions of big hydraulic presses would push the molten metal onto the surface.Going back to the fun of Gallium with Aluminium....Aluminium does not really go to well with steel.And gallium does not that good with steel either.Melting an Aluminium-gallium alloy is quite simple.With an excess of Gallium in the mix it should be possible to add fine steel powder (steel, not iron!).Of course it would neither mix well nor really melt at these low temperatures.With ultrasoic cavitation however we could force the stuff to not only mix but also create the same effect as used by ultrasonic soldering.The additional metals and minerals in a steel alloy should hopefully prevent any unwanted reactions in the final step...If the steel powder is ine enough then the assimilation of the steel into the aluminium-gallium mix would result in the breakdown of the steel.Once cooled and hard again the big question what would happen if we let water attack it?In theory all aluminium would react to form aluminium oxide and aluminium hydroxide.The gallium again would not be affected and as it is also bound to the steel should form a nice gallium-steel alloy.But what hapens to the voids where the aluminium was???The alloy would either be only affected on the surface or through cavitation and time all aluminium would be transformed.In the best scenario we would get a steel-gallium sponge where the voids are filled with alumium oxide.Forging such a mix could result in a ceramic steel..... !?? ;)Imagine a safe...There is always forceful ways to get in.Like drilling or using a big angle grinder.The pro might use a magnesium torch rod though....The common approach to improve penetration resistance is by filling a space between the outside and inside walls of a safe.Whatever you can imagine that is nightmare for your tools can be used, like thick glass plates, hardened steel bits, carbide studs, concrete with glass fibres....But even diamond tipped tools would already struggle if the steel itself would contain high amounts of a hard ceramic like aluminium oxide.The remaining gallium would also cause very high friction and through this heat - which these tools really can't stand unless you can provide water cooling as well.With the right balance of aluminium and gallium most of the original properties the steel had can be preserved.Just and idea though....
Topic by Downunder35m
Hi all, Just wondering if anyone knows of any minerals, or products that will produce a visible fluoro colour in daylight, or phosphorescent in the dark. I want to be able to either use these as glaze or as stain for clay slip.
Topic by jarris | last reply
A friend asked me to fix his tv's power supply, and i accepted the challenge. Upon closer inspection of the circuit board of the power supply, i saw that a resistor bridge, a rectifier, a diode, a capacitor and 2 power transistors were blown. I purchased the appropriate replacements, and as i was about to install them earlier today I saw that two ceramic capacitors are blown. One of them has '684J' printed on it, the other has "SCK 206 or 296" printed on it I need a little bit of advice on what replacement capacitors to buy, or if i should take them out of the circuit. I could leave them out, because they seem to hook up to a rectifier and then to a transistor, but i would rather buy the appropriate replacement capacitors. Thanks!
Topic by Sandisk1duo | last reply
Hi there, I received a not-working air conditioner model DPAC12010H from someone who didn't need it anymore, and I took it to a friend who works with refrigerators to see if we could find the problem. We took it apart, and we found that a fuse mounted on the main PCB was shot. The fuse is 120V and 3.75A so I suppose it's only for the control circuit as the whole air conditioner runs at more than 9A on max capacity. Anyway, we temporarily bypassed the fuse with a copper wire to continue testing. We plugged it in, and immediately a component on the PCB (which I now believe is a ceramic capacitor) spew sparks and melted it's insulation. However after this incident the air conditioner works perfectly, and it blows very cool air (its a 12000 BTU machine after all). However I'm still concerned about that capacitor. I can not post a picture right now, maybe when I get back from work. It was brownish yellow, about 3/4" in diameter roughly same shape as a nickel. Does anyone have any idea what that capacitor might be for? Since the air conditioner is working now I'm guessing the sparks made it conductive, or maybe it's used for the dehumidifier which I have not tested. I will buy a new fuse today and see what happens. The air conditioner draws about 9 A at full operation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Topic by colorex | last reply
I have a load of assorted ceramic capacitors. Can I create a capacitor bank to power a spark gap, and if so, how? Since it is voltage that matters for spark gaps, most of these capacitors have obscure codes on them, which I cannot find any information about on the internet, but some have voltages marked on then. I have 4 blue 2kV capacitors, 9 brown 1kV capacitors and 2 large, flat 1000V capacitors. Thanks in advance for any help!
Question by callummance | last reply
Hello you marvellous people, I am totally in love with this website, and thought this might be the place to come to get some advice and information. I've had this dress clip in my collection for years and am starting to sell off lots of it as I need to move city! I could just sell it to a vintage shop somewhere, but then I wouldn't get to find out anything about it, and would only get pennies. It probably isn't worth much, but I still just really want to know! I'm totally stuck on this piece. I've tried to get info on it everywhere, but no luck so far. All I can really say about it, is it's a dress clip, and it's old! Can anyone tell me more? All advice would be most appreciated :) Ophelia
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Question by Ronyon | last reply
When the ceramic is broken it does not fall apart completely because its bonded with rubber
Question by abigailjade | last reply
I don't want to throw away the extra dura-ceramic floor tiles that we used in our bathroom floors. Is there a craft of some kind that kids ages 8-12 could do with them to make something useful?
Question by governorguy | last reply
I have a small, round piezoelectric ceramic sensor made from PZT (Lead Zirconate Titanate) material that I would like to try out to see how much mechanical force I need to apply to light a 5mm LED. The piezo ceramic has already been soldered with two wires (negative and positive). Nevertheless, I am completely new to creating circuits that involve a piezo ceramic. As a result, I have no idea whatsoever on how to properly connect the piezoelectric ceramic to the LED as to light it up. I have connected the two together before and applied force on the ceramic to see if it created some sort of charge, yet nothing occurred.
Question by vcaballero | last reply
An odd question, I know - but how do I make a hole in the bottom of an old toilet bowl without breaking it? It doesn't need to be a neat job...
I have followed the evolution of the 3D printer and I can see its potential as a real tool for home use. Ceramic krafts have been a fairly easy home size cottage kraft for centuries. Now If you had a small kiln and you were able to model Items from house wares to mechanical parts to ceramic molds (ie Cookie or decrotive bread pans or a Ceramic motor block to an Air Motor). I thought if you Cure/ dry it (ceramic paste) as it was extruded on to the model with focused lasers (ready for deburing and then a bisque firing) as in using lasers for curing/ hardening of a polymer mediums. The variety of Ceramic Mediums/ materials that could be used to fuel a boon to the unemployed as a way to make money. Maybe printing out one use molds, to form cores to Graphite products that could be washed out after and have the mold material reused. If there was away for me to follow through with the possibilities. Extruding those oven cured clays, that could stretch its usefullness. I am trying to figure out a way to get out from under the pile and recycle as much as possible and use as many American made parts and electronics as I can. Graphite fiber empreganted ceramic material, is there such a product out there that could be utilized in 3D printed parts? Is there a Market for Products made of these types of materials? So many questions, so many possibilities.
Question by bigfoot03242 | last reply
Question by RossOwen | last reply
Hey- I'm going to build some Arduino clones (as posted from http://fritzing.org/projects/barebones-arduino/ ) and was wondering if it would be better to use a crystal or a ceramic resonator. i will be ordering from Tayda Electronics (Ive ordered before, 10 days shipping for rock bottom prices, I'm ok with that) and the resonators and crystals are +-5c. difference, so I was wondering if I could use resonators, since they are a bit cheaper and I'm ordering a few (around 8). Which ones would be better? Also, does anyone know for the circuit from the above link would work with a 4.5v supply if I just left out the 5v regulator? Many thanks- Astroboy907
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I need a adhesive for ceramic tile that can be used outdoor and it should be for a 'thin bed application' which means for adhering tile that is 1/8" to 1/4" thick.thanks a lot.
Question by ewcia1028 | last reply
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I am trying to make a heating element that would only turn on once the element itself reaches a certain temperature. This element, possibly ceramic, would be dormant until it reached an internal temperature from an external source (liquid) of 100 deg F. Once it is triggered, it would produce heat to maintain the liquid at 100 deg F. Ive been trying to figure out the best way to do this and how much power would be required. Say the liquid, well go with water, was 12 fl oz. how would I build a circuit that can be sensing temperature without using power, and once it reaches the desired temp, turns on the heater until the temperature either goes too high or drops too low so that it is not trying to work too hard. Open to suggestions on heating element types or anything that could help with my project. Thanks in advance!
Question by AndrewN144 | last reply
I'm thinking about painting the ceramic tile in our foyer. It should be able to stand wear and tear (and be walked upon)! Any suggestions?
Question by chitowncheryl | last reply
Am looking for pvc edging to use on my patio steps, which are exposed to weather elements.Anyone?
Question by gldbrk | last reply
Question by jilldufresne | last reply
I have desoldered a couple of old radios etc. and am trying to identify all the components I have harvested. Amongst them I have some green mylar caps. One such cap has the markings: 2A473J I did a bit of research and found out that usually the first two numbers is the significant figures and the third is the number of zeros. Assuming its not counting the 2A, I'm guessing this cap is 47000pF or .047μF. and I found out that the J is +/-5% tolerance? Firstly, is everything I have worked out/ assumed true and if so and the cap is .047μF, what does the 2A mean? Others say 2A73J, 2A103J, 2A332J, 2A222J, 2A102J Ceramic ones say 4, 22, 30, 33, 102, 103, 104, 203, 221, 222, 331, 332, 333, 473, 682, 683 And I also have 4 of another type of cap that I don't know the name of- they are shown in the 3rd picture. the two smaller ones say 474 on, one say 8.0M and the other:16.93M Thanks in advance
Question by mdog93 | last reply
Since not much else happens on my end of the States, I thought I'd post this. The Infor can be found here.
Topic by Goodhart | last reply
This is kind of a weird question but here it is: I recently made a project that uses ceramic capacitors (~55,00 of them!) to make a sign that has my name written in it, And I called it: Ceramic Capacitor Name Sign (Framed)- aka what you can make with 55,000 ceramic capacitors! What I would like to change: Is there a better word for this instead of sign? ("Plaque?" "Poster?" "Panel?") Do something with the word framed because I don't like the way it looks Any thing can help! Thank you
Question by Yonatan24 | last reply
I'm wanting to touch up some chips on ceramic tile which is on our sidewalk. The tile is different from the typical smooth gloss single color which you commonly see in bathrooms. This tile has a bit of a texture and some speckles. The texture (no doubt) is in place to keep you from killing yourself walking when it gets wet from rain etc... I was dreaming of using some sort of opaque paint marker(s) and a perhaps some sort of epoxy sealant. Maybe laying down some paint marker and then manually adding some speckles.... I'm using these terms loosely. Any suggestions? See picture of sample chip. I put a quarter in the picture to give you some sense of scale. You may notice some discoloration around the grout area - that's probably because I had just wiped the tile area clean with a wet paper towel.
Question by bobzjr | last reply