how do i clear a clogged bathtub/shower drain from home?

Im looking for a home remedy

Question by    |  last reply


Help! Clogged sink =(

My bathroom sink is clogged! Some brainy person decided to wash paper pellets down the sink and well, uhh, it's uber clogged. Two bottles of Draino have not made a difference. Any help? I would really like to be able to wash my hands after using the toilet....Just kidding, there's 2 more bathrooms to use

Topic by KentsOkay   |  last reply


confetti blower clogging

Hello everyone. I have a question which I think will be a simple one for you guys. I bought these mini confetti blowers for our church. They suck confetti, which are mainly small shiny rectangular pieces or some rose shaped paper-like material pieces, and blow them to the air. So ours came with a hose setup to suck the confetti: http://i.imgur.com/L3dzXMM.jpg I decided to modify it to suck confetti from inside a box like these ones do: http://i.imgur.com/EkE930u.jpg Here's a sketch of how it looks now with the box I made. http://i.imgur.com/Q5rPvfp.png What's happening though, the confetti pieces after few seconds form a clog where the box connects with the tube. http://i.imgur.com/pd7ZYFL.png If I push that clog with my hand, the confetti is sucked in and flows through the tubes and is blown just fine. I modified my box from the inside like so, but it didn't change anything. http://i.imgur.com/60vn7yW.png -> http://i.imgur.com/F5hzBwr.png Someone unlike me who actually understands why that is happening, can you explain why clog happens and how would you suggest me to modify my box shape to fix this? Not that the hose setup is bad, it just looks like a modified vacuum cleaner like that and not very pretty to have in ceremonies and we still need a box to put the confetti pieces and the hose in to suck the confetti so I thought I could just have the box on the machine itself and make it easier to handle.

Topic by MarkL9   |  last reply


Help Needed with Clogged Air Vent Drain Pipe and ? on Dishwasher Drain Pipe

I need help and learning how to remove, de-clog, etc. The picture is my kitchen sink drain area.  I have two-sink with the right side having a garbage disposal, with connecting pipes leading out.  But then, I have another pipe leading out in the same direction, but it serving as an air vent pipe.  There's a cooper pipe leading up and into the air vent pipe. Prior to taking the picture, my dishwasher's drainage pipe was connected to the bottom of the cooper pipe.  Well, last night I've noticed my sinks were clogged, I ran the garbage disposal, and then the a gush of garbage water came out of the under sink cabinet. Well, after a lot of cleaning, this morning I removed the drainage pipe from the sinks, and noticed that my air vent pipe was gushing out the garbage water. After searching the internet, it's rare to have a clogged air vent, but at the same time, no one seems to install the dishwasher drainage pipe into the air vent pipe. So my questions are: 1) Should my dishwasher drainage pipe be connected to the upper part of the garbage disposal?  (You can see there's a fitting on the disposal right above the white PVC pipe leading out of the disposal.) 2) Why would they (the original builders) install the dishwasher drain pipe into the air vent pipe? 3) Most importantly, how do I go about in unclogging the air vent pipe?  (It's all bonded together versus having a washers and nuts or a threaded union.) 4) Any answers and questions that I don't know what to ask?  Insights/suggestions? Please and thank you. v/r Bobby

Topic by CoffeeSnake   |  last reply


Kitchen sink won't drain, seems like there is an obstruction. Liquid drain cleaners have not worked.

This issue is with the left side of a double kitchen sink, which will not drain at all. The right side drains fine. We do not have a garbage disposal or dishwasher. Liquid drain cleaners have not worked. My husband used a snake in the sink, it only went in about an inch and it felt like it was hitting something very hard like metal all th way around. What could be the problem?

Question by v_o   |  last reply


Samsung pc power jack looks clogged. Need pic of clean jack lining to know if what I see is clog or part of jack?

My Samsung pc  suddenly is powerless.  Looks like there's a bit of dry leaf is wedged in an opening of the lining of the jack hole. What does the inside of a clean jack hole look like? 

Question by gadsden   |  last reply


How can I keep hair from clogging my casters?

I am a Pet Groomer and use a stool with casters to move about during long stints of detailed scissoring. During the week my casters become so clogged with hair that they will no longer turn. Is there anything I can do to prevent this? What type of casters will not collect hair or will not be clogged?

Question by VinnyVanGogh   |  last reply


Any Dutch makers looking for a new career?

According to the BBC, the traditional craft of making wooden clogs is dying out, and one of the last practising craftsman is looking for people to pass the skills onto... http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-34292514 (It seems walking in clogs is also a dying skill.)

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply



accessory hose?

How/Can I replace/clear the accessory hose in my unit? model #V3880 I inadvertently vacuumed up some liquid marinade and now the tube is clogged.

Question by stephenshafer62   |  last reply



How do you open a clogged plumbing air vent to a kitchen sink? Answered

We are having a plumbing problem with the  kitchen sink draining. The dishwasher ( for the most part) drains, but the kitchen sink does not. We have  tried the regular drain cleaners with no success. Then on the Internet it said to try sulfuric acid. When he went to Lowe's to get the acid, the Lowe's man suggested another really good drain cleaner and we tried it, it was something that you put so much in for 3 days. It didn't work. Last night we tried the sulfuric acid, sink still not draining. Or I should say , it drains very very very slow, pretty much takes several hours to drain. He has also been up on the roof checking to see if there was a bird nest or something blocking the vent. He didn't find any obstruction. He used a plumbers snake and he could put it down through the vent until it reached water. However , the plumbers snake did come loose from the handle, and now it is in the vent. We don't know how to get it out, or if it will be a problem in the vent. ....and he did not take a hose up to the roof and run water into the vent. That is the only thing I see that we have not done yet. He has taken all the pipes apart under the sink and run the snake under there as far as he can, there is no clog under the sink that we can find. Those drain pipes are all put back together. The plumbing in the rest of the home all works properly.

Question by rocknlinda   |  last reply



MOWER WONT START?

Mower has sat for awhile has spark but wont start. If I spray starter fluid in the air intake hole it will start and run for a few seconds. Any ideas maybe it is clogged somewhere????

Question by harleykissed   |  last reply


Forums are a great idea for fledgeling projects

THis way we don't clog up the area for completed projects with half-baked ones. Great work guys! They are simple and sexy. Did you guys buy these forums at Ikea ???

Topic by mikesty   |  last reply


The email alerts can not be switched off!? Answered

Those email alerts are really annoying and clog up my email. When I try to change it it just goes back to sending them to me. Can you help?

Question by PotatoCoffee   |  last reply


has anyone made a dust separator for a wood shop dust collector?

Oneida and other companies make a dust separator that uses cyclone action to separate the chips and dust from the airstream before it gets to the dust collector and clogs the filter. Has anyone done an instrucable showing how to build something like this?

Question by rmelchiori   |  last reply


I can't figure out how to get the drain stopper out of my tub/shower?

...so I can clean out whatever accumulated hair/gunk is making it drain so slow... ? What to do (besides get a plumber)? I've tried yanking it, and unscrewing (Neither direction works)?

Question by motherboard   |  last reply


hi, can anyone help with a laminating steel or brass with a thin film of silicon? Answered

Im buildng a mould for casing pcl (polymorf) there are issuse with using petroleum jelly as a release agent due to it clogging the pores, im building a highly porus biological scaffold for tissue engineering

Question by randomhand   |  last reply


Vacuum cleaner as wood dust collection?

I was wondering if it is possible to use a vacuum cleaner as a form on wood dust collection in my workshop. What type of vacuum clearer would be the best for this, one with a bag, bagless, whatever. If this is possible, what precautions should be taken to ensure smooth operation of this setup. I'm worried about wood dust possibly clogging up the vacuum cleaner. Any help/ more info/ ideas/ would be great.

Topic by SirMalan   |  last reply


Ide goda kold inda mide node....

Mide sinudses id all clogged up. As long as this doesn't go into my chest (like it did for my wife), I will be able to survive the next few days.I really hate sinus infections though, don't you? Anyone out there fall victim to the latest round of stuff going around? ...but this is how I feel about now though....

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


Shower Water Softener help?

I've been trying to do some research before purchasing a shower water softener, as our water is unbearably hard. It drys out the skin and promotes clogged pores. The problem is... i'm not exactly sure what to look for. There's so much info out there on such a seemingly simple topic, and i'm having a little bit of trouble digesting it all. I'd appreciate it if anyone could give me the quick and dirty version of what i need to look for in one of these things. Thank you!

Topic by Apollo_11   |  last reply


How do I clean from white sludge the pressure switch, the pressure regulator and the air hose of my air compressor? Answered

I recently bought a water trap filter for my air compressor (Black & Decker CP2525). When I unscrewed the pressure regulator and the air hose to make the connections I noticed that the air circuit was littered from white sludge (condensate + oil). I am afraid that this stuff will clog the filter quickly. Should I clean it? How can I clean it?

Question by taloskriti   |  last reply


Zee-bloomin'-ro!

We are here ! It's 10:45 local time, sunny, we're fed, I've seen two new birds already (a chipping sparrow, Spizella passerina, and a Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottus), and we've just realised that we're less than 100 yards* from the nearest BART station. The plan for the rest of the day is to trundle into the city to find our apartment, then I hear there's an interesting place to visit over on 2nd Street... This is already shaping up to being a good experience. UPDATE: Rather than clog up the forums with this stuff, I'm going to blog and tweet it. *See, I'm talking American already!

Topic by Kiteman   |  last reply


NO MORE ONE SHOT GUNS

Have you ever noticed that people keep making 1 shot frontloading knex guns without feeders or clips, it's like using muskets when we have full automatics, stop it please dont! Even if it can rip through cardboard, they are still one shot guns. try designing better guns and stop thinking that a oneshot gun with nooo inprovements is going to impress people. It only clogs up the site. Anyway I love knex and back in the good old days nobody built to many bad guns, now a whole lot of people are making block trigger front loading guns!!!!!

Topic by hobo lord   |  last reply


DIY Blender / Garbage Disposal

I bought myself a used blender with a spigot to make a Garbage Disposal. I was thinking, hook pipping to the blender from the top of the sink, add a pipe going out & bingo a DIY Blender / Garbage Disposal. But, the hole was too small for the stringy parts of the blended garbage & clogged. So I need help on a building plan on how to attach the blade of a blender & put in a small bucket or jug. It hast to be small to fill with sink water & blend. I need to know what to use, were to get it,( the best place is E-Bay), & how to put it together. I need a big spout, angeled to spin the water & refuse out thew the outlet pipe.

Topic by elkaddalek   |  last reply


Drain line from dishwasher is leaking when the garbage disposal is turned on?

So occasionally when we turn on the garbage disposal there's a PVC pipe in the cabinet under the sink where the drain line from the dishwasher feeds into that will spew water out all over the floor of the sink cabinet. It seems like it mainly happens when we hit the garbage disposal while the dishwasher is running. The sink will sometimes have water in it - but not full. This last time it was filled about 1/3 of the way with water. Other times it's had even less. Are we just not supposed to run the disposal when the dishwasher is running? Or could it just be a clogged pipe that we need to run a snake through? Thanks in advance for your help. :)

Question by Thorxes   |  last reply


Weather alert: Hurricane ike is gonna strike!

Cheesy titles aside, this is serious buisness! i live in houston, and the hurricane is heading strait for us. i'm a little scared, of course, and the roads are all clogged. My mom has been looking around for gas stations with gas left... it's a pretty big deal. houston is 45 miles from the water, and the hurricane has been moving around towards us, and gaining speed, all overnite. i'm praying to god it doesn't strike. the mayor has had press conferences, cancled work and school... we may have to evacuate! i'm hoping this won't be another katrina... any thoughts?

Topic by AnarchistAsian   |  last reply


What can I use for airbrush paints? Answered

OK, so I recently bought an airbrush set for $20 at a garage sale. I don't have an air compressor, so I bought the canned proppelant stuff and the nozzle attachment I need, for another $20. Then, I noticed there wasn't a hose in the kit, so I spent about 12 more bucks. I would love to try it out, but I don't have airbrush paint, and I am reluctant to spend any more money on this project. I do, however, have some standard Testors model paint laying around my workbench. Will this work in my airbrush or will it clog it up or damage it in any way?Thanks,Noahh

Question by noahh   |  last reply


My air conditioner is broken beyond repair, any ideas on how to keep the house cool until we move? Answered

The people we rent our house from decided to "fix" the air conditioning to the house by getting rid of the unit for the upstairs and just making the duct for the one downstairs bigger. Now the ducts are basically clogged with dust because there's no filter that will fit the main intake and the main unit keeps freezing up because it can't handle cooling the entire house. We live in Florida, so it get's very hot, very fast. We're currently looking for a new house, but does anyone here have any creative cooling ideas for until then? I currently have fans upstairs blowing all the hot air out, which is working a little bit.

Question by tieguy   |  last reply


I am having difficulties locating an IBLE I am sure I saw....

I just got another nice new vacuum cleaner motor from a clogged unit (motor is good, the other innards were not so good),  and I wanted to make the Soda Bottle hand vacuum I could have SWORN I saw somewhere in the ibles list awhile back.... 8 searches and two days and I am unable to find it (gee, I hope I saw it in here). Does anyone know which one or where it is?  I'd be most grateful. OK, it appears as though I am either remembering the KIT in Edmund's Scientifics  OR it is a project in one of my magazines, but not on line.   Thanks all anyways !

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


Just returned from the hospital.....

Last night at work, I started having chest pains and pressure, and so spent the night in the hospital getting it checked out.   AFAIK, it turned out not to be heart related, but they still want to run a stress/echo-C test just to be sure. At this point, we are not sure what caused the pain/pressure for 14 hours.  But it is good to know it is probably NOT my heart :-)  ADDENDUM: .the Heart Cath, prep and procedure take up much of a day's time (started at 10 am and got out of the hospital by 4:45 PM). And I was completely wiped out mentally and physically by then. All went fairly well, they found one artery about 70% clogged but not enough apparently to need a balloon or stent (shrug), so I will be "watched" for awhile. So, thankfully, no "extended" stay at the hospital this time around. I will be going back to work in Monday even.

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


Wires near a desk

I have a desk near my bed with the power strip on the other side of the desk. There's also my keyboard on the desk, so I have no problems in making the wires of my PC, phone, MP3 and 3DS chargers pass behind it so that they are hidden from view. I generally place my PC on the back of the keyboard and charge it, then everything else on top of either it or the keyboard. However, the things on the keyboard are quite ugly to the eye, while on the PC they clog. Also, it's always a pain to take the wire of the right charger (expecially in the dark), given that they are longer than the length of the desk, and if I roll them up they take up too much space. I was thinking of doing something to place those things on the side of the desk and fix the cables there. The problem is, I don't want to drill holes or anything like that, so I'm gonna stick with physics-fixed stuff or tape. What could I do that wouldn't be too bad to the eye?

Topic by Leodip   |  last reply


Anyone know how to make the Claire Burke Original fragrance oil for an effusion lamp?

I'm trying to locate "recipes" for a DIY effusion lamp oil. I found the basics-10-12 drops of essential oil per 16 oz. at least 91% alcohol, but some of these oils are expensive also. I'd like to recreate the Claire Burke Original scent-it, of course, has been discontinued.Any directions for the Applejack and Peel scent would be helpful too! I have the lamps, but the refill oils for all brands are really expensive;the alcohol can be found at drugstores and Wally-world for about $1.50/16 oz. bottle.The Essential oils are a bit more expensive, but all the info says one must use these-Not the fragrance oils. Apparently, those mixtures will clog the lamp wick or stone .Any and all suggestions for recipes and how many drops/Ml. of  the different oils-for ANY fragrances- will be welcomed.

Question by sandfoot   |  last reply


What's wrong with my bandsaw? Answered

I bought a Craftsman 10-inch bandsaw (http://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-10-in-Band-Saw/dp/B001TQPOG4/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt)  4 months ago. At first, it fuctioned normally and cut at a fast rate. But now, it can barely cut through anything; it took me a minute to cut through 3 inches of  1/2 particle board, and the blade nearly came to a stop while I was doing it. Even 1/8 acrylic can slow down the wheels to a crawl. The bandsaw is tuned correctly, it has enough power, nothing is clogged with dust (as far as I can tell), the blade feels sharp (I could be wrong) and there is no visible external damage. What could be the problem? (I have a 2 year warranty on it, so if it's broken, then I can get a new one. And if you need pictures of anything, just ask.) 

Question by Shagglepuff   |  last reply


Laptop Fan Buzzing? Answered

Hello Everyone, Need some advice here. I have noticed a slight buzzing sound in my fancy gaming laptop's fan recently. Its only audible when the fan is on its highest speed and then you wouldn't notice it if your volume is up. I'm fairly certain the problem is that the fan is slightly off balance. Here's why: 1). I completely dismantled the laptop and cleaned it of all dust and particles, so its not clogged or impeded in any way. 2). The sound stops if you tilt the laptop approx 30 degrees in any direction. (The sound actually gets louder until the 30 degrees is reached, then it completely stops). My question is: What should I do about it? Is it really much of a problem? Do I need to replace it? If I do, my warranty literally expired 1 week 1/2 ago, is there anything I can do about that? I feel cheated by the timing personally.

Question by transistorguy   |  last reply


What is a smooth, or "rounded" aggregate, like sand, but NOT abrasive ?

I made an hourglass as a prop for a local production of "The Wizard of Oz".  The "witch" (the actress') still has it at her  home.  The "glass", which s actually plastic, & made of sections cut from 4 plastic goblets- is becoming less clear because the white sand I used is fogging up the surface with very fine scratches.  I'd like to replace this sand (that I got from a craft store, like Joann's) with an aggregate that has smooth round pieces, not rough ones.  These wont be so scratchy, and will also be less apt to cram together and clog the narrow passage from the top chamber to the lower one.  I googled these words, and got some very technical info about the science of manufacturing concrete and plastic products, but nothing I could use to find or even name what I could buy and use.  ALSO, is there a best compound for polishing the inside of the "glass" to restore the original clarity?  In other things, I've used brass polish, and even toothpaste!

Question by Cantoo   |  last reply


NO MORE SINGLE SHOT BLOCK TRIGGER FRONT LOADING KNEX GUNS

Have you ever noticed that people keep making 1 shot front-loading knex guns without feeders or clips, it's like using muskets when we have full semi autos and repeaters, stop it please don't! Even if it can rip through cardboard, they are still one shot guns. try designing better guns and stop thinking that a one shot gun with nooo improvements is going to impress people. It only clogs up the site causing it hard to read the good stuff. Anyway I love knex and back in the good old days nobody built to many bad guns, now a whole lot of people are making block trigger front loading guns, try using existing designs and improve them but there's not much to improve with these simple tube,block,stick and rubber band projectile launchers!!!!! To sum it up, no more Killerk or your name here copies

Topic by hobo lord   |  last reply


Collections - a problem?

First off, this post is in no way targeted at any specific authors, and is just a piece of opinionated feedback. However, I will make reference to the data that I found about certain users. I love Instructables. Specifically, I love being able to browse the recent section, to see what fantastic ideas people have come up with and shared with the world. However, I hate being confronted by a wall of 'Collections' - it really does bug me! It is not new work - yes, it can make it convenient to look at recipes that all use tofu, or DIY quadrocopter plans to compare them, but it is not new content! I don't want to be offensive, but when you make 88 collections in under 2 weeks, it comes across like you're just begging/spamming for votes and don't have anything useful to add of your own design/ I propose a filter, that would allow you to remove collections from your viewing on 'Recent', to stop them clogging up the page if you so wish - not a policy change to stop collections from appearing, but an option to do so.  As a separate proposal, I suggest that the views for collections be disabled, to discourage spamming, and promote original content. I'd love some feedback from others, so please do chip in. If you want, you can PM me if you have the desire for a more private conversation. Cheers, S.

Topic by SanjayBeast   |  last reply


Just about done with this site

This site has jumped the shark.  It used to be a good place to find DIY projects of all kinds for all skill levels.  Over the past few years, it has changed in the following ways. - The majority of new instructables on the site involve elite technology - 3D printers, laser cutters, etc - that are too expensive or require a membership to Techshop or similar to have access to them.  In other words, they are mildly interesting to see what's possible, but of no use to the average person. - Many instructables are just implementations of things that can be commonly found on Pinterest and are being passed off as original ideas. - Drug content has started showing up as instructables.  While I understand that some states have legalized cannabis, not all have, and I don't want my family to be exposed to it. - "Collections" may be useful in some cases to pull together instructables on a common theme, such as photography or boat building, but they are overused so much that they clog up everything else on the site.  Again, it's an example of people posting without creating any new content. - I'm a non-paying member of the site and the ads and other "recommended links" have started taking over everywhere. For years I've been following the site and checking the recent instructables posts almost daily to see what's new.  The site continues to meet other's needs, and that's what's important, but I'm sorry to say that it's no longer worth my time.

Topic by webman3802   |  last reply


50cc 2 Stroke Tuning? Answered

I have an old moped that I got for cheap and I am trying to fix it up. I replaced the carburetor and the new one is a little bigger even though it is off of another 50cc. It insisted on running extremely lean, but I was able to get the fuel/air mix balanced by putting some foil tape over part of the intake to get more vacuum behind it. It will only run right if the exhaust is on so that it is not lined up perfectly with the exhaust port on the cylinder. If the exhaust is taken off it will start first kick, but if it is lined up the way it should be it will not start. I took it off today and when I put it back on as close to the way it was before it would start but is now running very lean, beyond what I can tune out with the carburetor. If I give it full throttle it bogs and has no power, but it has fair power at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. It also is getting really hot and has absolutely no power once it gets very hot. Yesterday I hat it all just right and it ran with none of these problems except that full throttle was still not where it got full power. Does any one have any ideas about what I have to do to make it run right? Maybe there is no option but careful misalignment of the muffler? --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- It turns out that the problems were that the muffler was clogged, and that it was running too lean at first, but too rich once it warmed up. Thank you for you suggestions.

Question by Jaycub   |  last reply


Steam generator for a home-made steam room

I love steam rooms. i want to build one out behind our house in the country in thailand. but it has to be low-tech. i'm thinking i'll make a square wall out of cinderblocks, about 4 feet high. then my shower will stick up from that .we don't have running water. we get water pumped from the well into big jars and use a bowl to splash water on ourselves to wash. but i put a submersible pump in the bottom of the jar, rigged up some PVC pipe and i have a shower of sorts. so if i build a 4 foot high square wall, with a doorway, i can pull a thick piece of foam over the top to cover the top, hang a rubber curtain across the doorway opening, and have an enclosed, outdoor room that i can steam up and sweat the gunk out, then stand up, flip off the insulating cover and shower right there. the steam room will go right behind me and the jars in the shower picture- where you can see a little bit of grass growing. but how do i make a steam generator? commercial ones cost way more dollars (baht) than i need to spend. i can use propane from a tank for fire, or wood, or charcoal. the well water is very hard water with a lot of dissolved minerals in it so my steam generator can't be something that will get clogged up with mineral deposits. anybody got any ideas? the steam generator needs to be cheap, home-build-able with local materials, and safe... don't want anything that can blowup, catch fire, or asphyxiate the users.

Topic by Thaikarl   |  last reply


Sharpening a concave blades like Kukri or similar

Every now and then you have someone approaching with the odd job.This time it was in the form of an old Kukri / Gurkha knife.Wasn't expecting this when I was asked a few days ago if I could sharpen some old knife so it can be used for camping.The knife had a few marks from hitting hard stuff or maybe the occasional nail.But the worst was that for as long as guy had that knife it was only "sharpened" using a belt sander.You know, these tiny machines advertised to give your (kitchen-) knife the perfect edge.We could now argue about the pros and cons of having a knife edge that is literally rounded.But once it was done so many times that the edge really looks rounded it becomes obvious why this method only works for thinner blades.Adding to the problem was the fact that the belt used was just over 1.5cm wide.Appereantly so it is easier to do the concave part of the blade.Lets just say lengthwise it looked like someone created a wave pattern LOLThere was nothing "straight" on this nice blade anymore.Now, if you look up how to properly sharpen thise Kukri knifes then you can find all sorts of really useful tips.One I really likes was to use some eraser and toglue sandpaper on it.Small and flexible enough to cause minimal damages to the curve towards the handle.Another nice one is to use half round diamond file, preferable of a finer grit in the 600 region.Should work fine - if you plan to invest an awful lot of money on such a file.I however like things quite often done the old fashioned way.The oldest trick in the book....Whether you are using chisels and work on wood, just love to keep your knifes sharp or go on long camping or hiking trips - sharp knifes and tools just become your thing.The main thing everyone tells you is a super flat surface for whatever is supposed to sharpen your blade.For the normal stuff that is fine and good and you only need to flatten out your stones every now and then.But what about these odd jobs?Imagine you would need to sharpen a long paper cutting blade on some machine.Might be over a meter long and it has to stay with a perfectly straight edge.Back in the day this task was not done with some very expensive stone of large size....Instead sandpaper of various grit was used on a flat steel surface.I actually prefer a small pane of glass and tape my sandpaper on it.Hard to find anything finer than 1000 or 2000 grit but you might be surprised how well this stuff polishes onces clogged up a bit.Its all about the right level of wetness...Anyways, for our Kukri in question I decided it is time to do the same but in a way that does not harm the blade, constantly cut into the eraser and still is solid and "flat".If you still work with a sickle then you already know where I am going here ;)I used a small diameter spray can as my surface to hold the sandpaper.Of course a piece of PVC pipe, round wood or similar would warok the same way....Sticky tape does not work well with sandpaper unless you use double sided stuff.But it is enough to wrap one round on the top and one on the bottom of the sandpaper on the can to hold in place.So much for the basics....If you know how to sharpen a knife then you also know that there is a prefered way of doing it.Depending on the blade and stone in question you literally try to cut a thin slice out of the stone with every stroke.Either stright or with a cutting motion.This works fine with sandpaper on a flat surface, not so much however on a round surface.Try it and you see how you cut off the sand from the paper and constantly ruin your edge.The only way to do it is to move with the edge.You start from the heel and stroke to the tip.The can is used likea sharpening rod and shall always stay at a 90° to the curve of the blade.Takes a bit of practice to find the right grip to hold the blade while moving and twisting the can but well worth it.The rounded surface only allows for a very thin area of the sandpaper to work on the edge.I started with 120 grit!!!It left a trail of destruction on the edge, at least in the rounded up section....Once I only had a very thin bit left on the edge from the old sharpening I switched to 240 grit until a flat edge formed.As the Kukri was a disaster this process still tok over 4 hours to complete.That blade was properly hardened too...The start of the finnishing was done by jump right to 600 grit paper.The first can was just slightly smaller in diameter than the concave bend in the blade - perfect to smooth out those nasty bumps.But with a burr forming now on the edge and minor mishap with angle of the can towards the curve of the blade would mean cutting into the can while sharpening the concave bit.Meant I used my emergency insect repellant can as I did not like the idea of hoping my pepper shaker would start leaking while sharpening ;)If you blade is not too damaged you can of course start right away with a smaller diameter.The process is the same as before.Move along the blade and keep the can at the 90° angle towards the curve.Once you feel a burr forming on the side turn over until you have a bur on the previous side again.Repeat until all the marks from the coarser grit are gone and the edge has a uniform shine.Switch to a finer grit and go as high as you can here.I had to stop at 1000 grit as my supply of 2000 and 4000 grit is out.Hints and tricks along the way....It really helps to do this sandpaper sharpening under running water.The paper won't clog up, you won't risk a losse grain making really deep marks...But on a bad blade this can take several hours and would do it with a small aquarium pump or so and some gloves.A fine but stiff brush and soapy water however do wonders to clean up used sandpaper!I prefer to use these re-used pieces before switching to a finer grit.In most cases they are already finer than the next grit and create a nice polish that makes the visual confirmation of your right angle and angle of attack easy.A kukri is a working blade!It is mot meant to make fish filet or shave you legs.It is somewhere between axe, big bowie knife and hatchet.That mean if you would dare to give a 8° angle either side of the edge you would have a pretty damn wide edge...Stick to the original in width but keep it nice and flat.It is good compromise between cutting sharpness and durability when for example chopping wood for your camp fire.DO NOT USE A BELT SANDER!!I said it before but have to repeat it again as there is people using a big belt sander with enough free space to add a set of wheel that creat the curve I got from my spray can.The guys in India that make these knife do this blind folded....It takes years of practise to get the steady hand required not to cut through the belt.The beginners start in reverse, meaning the belt runs towards the edge.These guys only to the basic forming of the edge with really coarse grit.Basically to remove the marks from the forging.After that the pro takes over the blades and he has the belt running towards the edge!If you are silly enough to try it at home be prepared to have the belt flying in your face very violently!!The reverse sanding can't be used to finnish a blade as you never get a proper sharpness and flatness right on the edge.So just stick to manual and take an hour or so longer but then be able to enjoy a cold drink when done.You need surprisingly little sandpaper in terms of clogging up and getting useless until you get to the finer grits.If you use a wooden dowel or similar then make it a bit longer and add strips about 6cm wide of sandpaper.This way you have all the grits you need in one place and can take them with you to keep your blade sharp ;)If you glue it onto the stick it is also quite easy to give it quick brush clean when done.The really tricky part starts from about 800 grit onwards.Every mishap on the concave part can mean damage to your paper or to your edge.When using stone most beginner think that using a lot of pressure is a good way to remove the material quickly.In reality however it is just a sure way to wobble the blade over the stone, especially if the blade is not fully straight.Sandpaper can be more aggressive than your stones as in our case you only work with a little area and every time you turn the can only a little bit you have a fresh piece of paper working instead of a slurry building up.This mean you really do't need much pressure at all.It is the repetition, not the pressure that gives you the edge if you don't mind the pun here. ;)For a real working knife stopping at 1000 grit once you do single strokes either side of the blade is sufficient.The tiny burr left will disappear quickly during use and the Chakmak can be used for a quick refurbishing after every longer use.Should mean you only need to get the sandpaper out once you edge actually started to get blunt again.The final stroke....There are those people that don't have a kukri to go camping...Some people like to collect them.Restoring an old kukri can be done like with any other knife.That is until you want a razo sharp edge that is also highly polished.This is quite possible with the original edge width on the kukri.But of course you can only go so far with sandpaper....Modern technolgy provides us with the solution in several options.Firstly we have the ceramic sharpening rods.Unless you can do with kitchen variety thickness you need to pay a lot of money.A short 8cm diameter rod can set you back over 100 bucks with ease.Especially if you want something that provides a mirror like finnish.And alternative that is often available relatively cheap is a ruby rod.They can often be found with slight damages that make them useless for laser applications.Even burnt out rods are still fine as long as they are not cracked.It is quite hard (literally) to give them a satin finnish but I found that good quality sandpaper is sometimes capable of doing it.I like one side smooth and the other half of the rod with a satin finnish to prepare the edge.On the budget there is quality wet and dry sandpaper as commonly used in paintshops.If used dry the finer grits tend to clog up on such a wide edge.Once you have a piece of 1000 or finer grit that is fully clogged up you can use to give the edge a final polish.With this you won't even need a leather strop anymore but as said it takes a lot of practise so you won't cut the paper in the concave area.The steel rod....If you happen to have a hardened steel rod, like from a motion rail, small drive shaft or a big drill then give it a try.When using a drill:Of course use the end of the drill, not the working part ;)Also make sure it really is motth as any burr from the chuck or such will cause deep scratches on your blade.If it starts to feel sticky after a few good stroke you know the drill method is working.If it continues to feel very smooth and you don't see any polishing effect at all if tried on a small area only then you blade is of really good quality.But then again you would have confirmed that already by the ongoing swearing during the endless hours trying to remove some material from the edge...A word of advise for the first time user of a kukri:Although a good kukri is hard to damage without hitting a stone or metal, you can make blunt very quickly.It is top heavy blade and requires a steady hand when working on other things than meat.Chopping into some wood and letting the blade slip can deform your edge.A little mishap can be fixed with chakmak but not if hit hardwood badly a couple of times.And tempting as might be to use it as a small hatchet or axe to split your kindling:Never hold a piece of wood and then hack into it from the top with your kukri!Not only can you miss the wood and hit your hand, the wood can also split far easier or in unexpected directions!If the kurki is sharp you then have a good chance to loose a finger or two!

Topic by Downunder35m 


(newsletter) 5-Minute Cake, Run Through World of Warcraft, Fake Scars...

Oct 23, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! Our book, The Best of Instructables, Volume 1, is now on sale! We selected over 120 of the best Instructables and put it into an awesome book. Check it out and buy a copy today! Enter the Party Like It's 1929! Contest! With the economy in the toilet we need to find clever ways to save money, live with less, and reuse what we've got. Remember the Great Depression? We can definitely do better this time around. Share your cash-stretching tips and tricks, and win something useful! The DIY Halloween Contest is scaring up awesome projects! We've partnered with some of your favorite websites to bring you the biggest and best Halloween contest ever -- and we've got tons of great prizes to give away. Show us your best costumes, treats, gadgets, jack-o-lanterns, and more! Check out the entries and get inspired for the best Maker holiday ever. The Hungry Scientist Contest and this round of Burning Questions close this weekend. Enter now to win a Kitchen Aid mixer, a super nice knife set, or a Le Creuset Enamel Cast Iron Cook Set for your food hack or a t-shirt for your Burning Answer!Stop by our office tonight for our Halloween open build night and make something awesome! The Best of Instructables - Video by ewilhelm Run Through the World of WarCraft by ManaEnergyPotion 5-minute Chocolate Cake by scoochmaroo Easy to do VERY convincing scar! by BlackDidThis Tons and tons of spooky andamazing prizes!Closes this weekend! Leather iPod Touch Case using Water! by gmjhowe Clear a clogged drain with SCIENCE! by fultron89 Eat a Sprouted Coconut by TimAnderson Little Zen Garden by itschrys Cookie Periodic Table by maicoh Reclaimed Wood Table by drocko Is Your Printer Spying on You? by EFForg Journal to Save Your Life by johnnyallenshaw 10 ways to gross out your guests Share your best money-saving tips! Make a Laptop Stand with a Coat Hanger by tullytully Make a Shirred Fabric Summer Dress by threadbanger Homemade Spaghetti by gregr Sewable Arduino Interface by Plusea Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


Feedback to the user profile page design update Oct. 2016 (post your thoughts here)

You may have noticed that intructables has a brand new user profile page design. I couldn't find a thread for feedback so I made this. Feel free to add your thoughts on this change! It is was just about time for this update and you came up with a beautiful design. Yet I do have a few mixed feelings about it, I'll just go throught the things I noticed within half an hour playing around: It's a bummer that it is not possible to sort the instructables of a user by anything. I can not figure out how to access a users collections or favorites list. I noticed the activity list is mostly filled with "user favorited author's ible" or "some user followed author", which is hiding any *actual* activity of the author. I doubt that this is what the majority of readers want (At least I don't). Please give use the option to choose what we'd like to show as well as the option to hide and feature individual entries, it is "our" profile after all. Long comments should be "collapsed" by default with a button to display all of it. It can clog up the list quite easily. This type of activity list has a great potential to ease communication with followers. I'd be great to post things (small amounts of text or maybe a picture) which generates a notification for followers. The "Set promoted Items" is a great idea, if I could get it to work (I'm running firefox 44.0) The "favorite <3" counter has always meant much more to me than views, they show that an ible is worth remembering, please bring it back. Why is the avartar now placed in a top banner instead of in the top left corner (right over the "about user" section). It seems like a lot of wasted space to me. I wish you could click any of the contest medals to get to the corresponding 'ible, it's no big deal though. Characters such as " " or Ω are not displayed correctly. To me this update feels like a lot of options to discover the things I like are taken from me. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought instructables is the place for those who desire more individuality, so much actually, that they just make their own stuff. Quite ironic to force a "one fits all" update (without any  configurations) onto everybody. Please, don't take this to much to heart. I am aware that any of those dots above can be days worth of work, I don't expect you to change anything. Still I feel like these issues must at least be mentioned once. Stay true to yourself, instructables, don't loose your uniqueness in search of being pretty. nqtronix

Topic by nqtronix   |  last reply


Exploding K-cups in a Keurig coffeemaker

Our Keurig coffeemaker is several years old. We began to see a ragged star opening in the top of the K-cups after brewing and coffee grounds various places outside the K-cup. All of the usual recommended fixes were no help. (See below.) This video gave me a solution that worked very well for us. (I have no personal connection to the video or its maker.) We now see only a neat round hole in the top of our K-cups after brewing, not a torn and ragged opening. Video summary: Remove two screws under the flip-up cover above the K-cup holder. Remove the decorative plastic cover by tugging at it. Snip the zip tie that keeps the soft white tube on the fitting. Pull the tube from the fitting. Hold the end of the tube over a cup. Cycle water through the Keurig until several cups come out clean. Clear the upper and lower needles of coffee grounds. Attach the tube with a new zip tie and screw the cover back in place. One word of caution: Very hot water spewed onto the soft skin at the base of my thumb and it was very uncomfortable. I draped a folded towel over my hand while hot water was being expelled from the disconnected tube at the top of the Keurig. Also, I ran quite a number of cups of water through the Keurig until I got three consecutive cups of water without any debris particles of any kind in the water. (I did not see an accumulation of coffee grounds like the man describes in the video, but I saw what was similar to pieces of a brown wing from a housefly.) In the two or three days following the procedure in the video we did occasionally have a K-cup blowout, but have seen only perfect round holes after a week or so, and we probably brew a dozen cups of coffee each day. The usual recommendations-- +Keurig's official recommendation as the cause of grounds migrating outside the K-cup is too much air inside the K-cup as evidenced by a domed lid on the K-cup before it is punctured. Their recommendation is to poke the top of the K-cup with a pin before putting it into the Keurig. Because of my observations and experience, I give very little credence to this. +Accumulated lime from the water needs to be descaled from the inside of the Keurig. Lime accumulation does cause a partially full cup of brewed coffee. We regularly descale our machine. We have also run water through our machine whenever we have seen grounds in our coffee and some grounds came out with the water. Descaling is a good thing to do, but I doubt it has a connection to bursting K-cups and grounds where they do not belong.  +Clogged upper and lower needles. The video will direct you to use a wire to insure open passageways inside the needles above and below the K-cup.

Topic by Phil B   |  last reply


Knex Revolver Pictures

***THIS IS NOT A PRIMARY WEAPON, BUT A SECONDARY. I am tired of people nagging me about it, it's a k'nex gun that shoots as far as any other powerful pistol, but the main thing I'm emphasizing here is QUICK RELOAD and RELIABILITY (no jams, mag pushers, or anything to get between you and your challenger). It's just a handgun that I slapped a stock on to look cool, so you can stop telling me that some kid's sniper is better or deconstruction round guns are things of the past because that's just your excuse to put me down. I'm not complaining, I'm just stating the obvious. 1. The whole gun, stock, clip, mech, and all. 2. This is with the clip on. 3. This is what it looks like when you take the clip off. 4. This is a front view of the clip the gun uses (I didn't show any empty clips, just take all the white rods off for an empty clip.) 5. And a side view of the clip this gun utilizes. 6. This is what it looks like when you hold it... The handle looks like crap compared to the TDS but actually is very comfy, as the white rods stick out around your fingers. 7. The retarted FPS angle that everyone seems to love. Stats (KI Template): Type: Revolver Weight: N/A Ammo Type: White or Green Rod Range: N/A* Firing Interval: 1.5 seconds Mag Capacity: 8 Rounds Mag Reload Time: 2.5 seconds *This one really depends. A newer white connector will not shoot as far as an older one since the older one will release the white rod easier. That being said, mine shoots about 20-30 feet with a single #64 rubber band at a slight upwards angle with an old connector. Not bad! Sadly, it does not auto-revolve, but there are no clumsy mag pushers poking at you, and while it takes longer to cock and shoot, the reload time is VERY fast, you disconnect a connector and connect a new one, so if you're fast I'd say 1-2 seconds. Also, if the annotations get in your way just click the white "i" at the top-left. EDIT: New double-cylinder. Slightly slower than reloading regular single-cylinders, but easier to carry around. 7. A picture of the gun with the double-cylinder. 8. The new clip, by itself. New Round: Mag Capacity: 16 Rounds Mag Reload Time: 2.7 seconds Yes, I know this design is relatively old. Yes, I know other people have done this. This is the first to feature a design specifically for detachable clips. This may not seem like much, but it reloads extremely fast, and with the double-cylinder design, can outlast any pistol in a firefight. Why? Well, for one, as opposed to loading in each bullet individually (if you use post-it notes they can clog up your gun no matter how you put them in), this comes in packs of eight and sixteen. Also, there are no rubber bands for the clips, so no jamming, no mag pushers, and no friction from the bullets. If you rush and slip up with a "regular" gun, you potentially have a broken clip, or bullets everywhere, or a jam. With this, the only punishment is a longer reload time. Also, while conventional knex gun clips have a lot of pieces, a single-cylinder clip has MORE ammo pieces than non-ammo pieces, and the double-cylinder clip has very few pieces as well. This means you can have more clips built, and the number of bullets you can hold expands exponentially! So again, while this couldn't fight soley against the SwagBoss, or the Knexsayer, or big knex guns, I would put my money on this above any other sidearm due to its reliability and the fact that its reload time is super short.

Topic by DB2016   |  last reply


Fighting with Nylon ;)

As some might know I still use an old Gen1 Prusa but love the challenge of basically getting everything done with that oldie. One of my latest challenges of "always" printing on a cold bed includes Nylon. If you ever had troubles because you ABS or PLA filament got too moist you will already know what happens to your print... Nylon is even worse when it comes to moisture as you can't see or really feel it. I was thinking of making a complete Nylon guide as an Instructable but think I will start here to kick off some discussion first. So, we know the Nylon must be really dry for a god print as otherwise we get bubbles, bad adhesion and of course a foamy looking print. Well, not really... Let me explain: A perfectly smooth and shiny finnish is not always required, and with the right settings Nylon still forms strong bonds even with a foamy look. However, the dimensions of parts are affected as well - outside dimensions go bigger and hole diameters smaller. If that is no issue for your print then there is no real need to perfectly dry your filament ;) Speaking of drying: People use all sorts of methods to dry their filament, not just Nylon. One of the most common and most expensive seems to be the use of your oven for several hours to dry it. Another way involves food dyhydrators, bit less on the energy bill but still... Then we have the smart guys using the sun and silaca gel for the drying - good and great but so useless in cold and wet climates... My advise here: Take your time! I mean, sure you want to print right after the filament arrived in your letter box but a bit of preperation will save you filament and frustration. Usually filament comes in a sealed bag with a pack of silica gel and it should be dry and ready to use. But Nylon can become too moist within the time it takes to finnish a long print if you are in a wet climate. This means you start printing and all is good but the next day your new print looks ugly as for no real reason. Make use of these sealed storage containers. Put the filament in there with a good amount of indicating silica gel and only have a hole to feed the filament through - if in doubt use a bowden fitting and a short lenght of teflon tube to prevent friction. A piece of sticky tape over the hole when you don't use the filament and the filament is always ready to use. Reminds me to make an Ible for a suitable storage solution with spool holder... Anyway... When it finally comes to print Nylon you should know cardboard works best as a bed as Nylon sticks really well to it. I glue mine onto a layer of masking tape, this way it won't lift from the bed and I can still replace it very easy. But the most common mistake with Nylon is to print it too fast. The stuff really expands and shrinks a lot from filament to print and high speeds only too often cause the layers to seperate later on. Some people compensate with higher temperatures but I don't like the idea of fitting a filter system with activated carbon filters... Also keep in mind the intense shrinkage when setting the extrusion multiplier! If your ABS prints fine with 0.85 you can expect that the same sized Nylon prints fine somewhere in the range of 55-60! Now you also know why printing with thick layers is not such a great idea if you require all dimensions to fit. Although only outside accuracy can be done by cheating in the settings, getting outside, inside and extrusion widths settings accurate is almost rocket sience ;) Nylon is expensive or not available here in the diameter I require.... I had the same trouble and reverted to trimmer line and a modified, dedicated hotend instead. Why dedicated you wonder? Nylon can be real pain to clean as nothing dissolves and if you heat the parts hot enough to melt it you can not work easy with them. Having a decicated hotend means you won't run into the problem of burnt ABS or PLA clogging the nozzle ;) It also means you can match the hotend to the trimmer line you choice (more on that in a minute). For example, in some areas trimmer line of 2mm or 3.3mm diameter is the most popular and cheapest. Just drill out the hotend to cater for the new diameter, which I did after noticing the filament got stuck in the neck of the cold end ;) Trimmer line - does it matter which one? It does these days! Avoid everything that is not round or labeled with terms like "duracore", "dual core", "multi layer"  -basically all that indicates it is not just a single, solid stand of Nylon. Long lasting, special core line is great for your lawn trimmer but really bad for your hotend! PET, High temp nylon or even fibre re-inforced cores are in use, so in the best case you mix the nylon with overheating PET, in the worst you block your nozzle permanently. If it looks like it has a core or some sort of "mantle" around it, it means not usable.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply