Search for cosmetics in Topics


What happened to Helene RubInstein ? Answered

Helena Rubinstein: cosmetics, face care, sun care, makeup. Well Max Factor..... ;)

Question by iceng    |  last reply


Mineral liquid foundation - what's best to make it 'liquid'?

I know how to make the pigmentation powder - how do I make it a liquid please?

Question by aitchvee    |  last reply


Anyone know of a persulfate-free method to dye brown hair blonde?

I'm allergic to persulfates, which are the chemicals in hair dye that strip the hair of its natural color.  I found this out after I had my hair professionally dyed, broke out, and went to the dermatologist.  I know that peroxide can also lighten hair, but I was hoping someone had good techniques or experiences with that or a similar persulfate-free lightening method.  My hair is very short so I'm not worried about breakage.  Normally I would just let something like this go, but as it turns out, I look really good as a blonde ;)

Question by buffalauren    |  last reply


how do you make a cosmetic pouch?

I am looking to make a small bag or cosmetic pouch with a lining.  It has a fold over flap with a velcro closure.  i have a sample that I am trying to recreated, but am having difficulty.

Question by mitchp58    |  last reply


How do you make a salve? Answered

Origins used to make a cream called "Leg Lifts." It's loaded with menthol, Eucalyptus and a bunch of other stuff that makes your skin tingle. I would use it after really long bike rides and it was like a cooling chemical massage. They have now stopped making it and no more is available so I was hoping to reverse engineer it. It was a smooth cream the consistency of ketchup or a heavy hair conditioner. I think I can work out the things that make your skin tingle, but I have no idea what to use for the suspension medium. I searched for foot creams and salves and what I found didn't seem like a good fit. I figure once I come up with a suspension medium, I can just add powdered menthol, eucalyptus, tea tree oils and such until I get something that does the job. What could I use for this suspension medium? It has to be pH balanced, hypoallergenic and edible.

Question by Marsh    |  last reply


THE DRUGGIST'S GENERAL RECIPE BOOK, PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES 1878

Http://babel.hathitrust.org/cgi/pt?id=mdp.39015066542062 recipe the below is OCR text. There is a PDF on the link, to read on line only. THE DRUGGIST'S GENERAL RECEIPT BOOK COMPBISING A COPIOUS VETERINARY FORMULARY HUMEBOUS EEC1PES IN PATENT AND PROPRIETARY MEDICINES DBUGGISTS1 NOSTBUMS, ETC. PERFUMERY AND COSMETICS BEVEBAGES, DIETETIC ABTICLES, AND CONDIMENTS Trade Chemicals, Scientific Processes AND AN APPENDIX OF USEFUL TABLES XY HENRY BEASLEY ®igl;tj1 PHILADELPHIA LINDSAY AND BLAKISTON 1878

Topic by Lateral Thinker  


Suggestions on making a plastic-free push-up cosmetic container? Answered

I absolutely despise plastic and don't want it touching my body or anything that touches me any more than absolutely necessary. I've been working on some home-made body care products, and have made the deodorant posted on Instructables by scoochmaroo...but she re-uses an old plastic bottle, and that's just icky! So I'm open to suggestions...aluminum, glass bottles converted somehow, toilet paper tubes, ceramic, birch bark...whatever! I'd like it to sit at 1-2 oz, and have push-up-from-the-bottom capabilities. Or if you know where I can find what I want, I've been looking all over the net and haven't found a thing!

Question by {tauney}    |  last reply


Military Styled Airgun?

Can any one suggest features(Even cosmetic stuff) that I can put on my .60 military styled airgun I'm building. Already have a muzzle brake

Question by pyro888    |  last reply


homemade peeling cream - how do I do it? thank you!?

I want to prepare my own peeling cream. Des anybody know how this is done? I have a vague idea, but nothing really that would work. Appreciate your help.

Question by ruthy nov    |  last reply


dead sea products

Hello, Does anyone know a good site with stuff from the holy land? I'm looking for natural cosmetics and spa products, mainly Dead Sea stuff. TNX [EDIT/] Anyways, I guess I found a couple of links. www.2holyland.com seems to me as a serious one.IMHO Has anyone heard about it and can recommend it ? Thanks.

Topic by dani_mak  


Collaboration between ModSquad and OpenProsthetics?

Hello! I'm curious whether the ModSquad group has contacted, or explored collaboration with, the Open Prosthetics Project. While the idea of an inexpensive and colorful cosmetic prosthesis is excellent, I wonder whether it might be possible to develop a somewhat functional, while still inexpensive, prosthetic arm as well.For children, it might not need have the complexity or range of motion the OPP is aiming for, but even something might be useful.

Topic by kelseymh    |  last reply


Kodak M763 Digital Camera for sale

I also have for sale my old digital camera which I do not use anymore. I had it for about 2 years but it is in perfect cosmetic and working condition. The auction will be on ebay and the starting price is going to be $40. I will post a link once the auction is up which you can refer to for more details.

Topic by Electroinnovation  


I was wondering about use of some barrels that I procured. Answered

They had Polyacrylic acid (CAS# 9003-01-4) in them, which was being used as a calcium dispersant/scale inhibitor.  I was wondering with a good rinse, wash and soak if they would be ok for use in a rainwater collection system that feeds a garden.  I discovered that that specific chemical is also used in all kinda of cosmetics, and in many of different pills (Musinex as an example) as a time release agent.  I figure if I clean them good, how bad could it be if it's something that you would ingest anyway?

Question by Bajimer    |  last reply


How best to circulate wood insert heat into the bedrooms at the end of the house?

We have a decent size wood insert with dual squirrel cage fans in the center of the house on the ground floor.  It does a good job of heating the room its in, however none of the satellite rooms nor the upstairs bedrooms get much heat.  We have central air,  would running the system on circulate help, or will that just pull the warmest air out of each room (the returns are up high)?  Ultimately, I'd love an air/water heat exchanger to plumb into our HVAC but that doesn't seem practical from a house layout, expense or cosmetic perspective.

Question by hackneyed1    |  last reply


Bazooka/Mortar/ contest *UPDATE*

It is time for the first contest of the Innovative and Active knex gun Community! The rules are that the projectile must explode, like a splodie, or an I_Am_Canadians war bomb, or whatever you can come up with. With the exception of mortars, the bazooka must be able to be fired from the shoulder. The entries will be judged in explosive power, range, reliablity, and cosmetics, bonus points if you can replicate the RPG-7 or the AT-4, or make an airburst round. Contest ends August 25th NO ONE POSTED, THE CONTEST IS OFF (sorry for caps)

Topic by Knex_Gun_Builder    |  last reply


Custom Refrigerator Skin

I wanted to figure out how to create a skin for large items such as refrigerators, washing machines,  etc.   I am having trouble conceptualizing the necessary steps to completely hide cosmetic blemishes on large machines and appliances.  Would creating a skin be a good solution?  I am guessing there is a more elegant way than simply placing a large image printout underneath glass?  Also FYI, some of the appliances are completely brand new so I would ideally want a "top layer" solution as opposed to a "painting" solution. Nice to have features: 1.  weather proof 2.  Can be easily swapped with new design

Topic by adacquel    |  last reply


Some links are right-justified

.  Some, but not all, links in comments are right-justified and on a line of their own. I think this is happening when someone pastes a URL but does not make it into a link, but that's just a guess. Just a cosmetic bug; doesn't seem to affect anything but formatting. .  Here is a URL (not linked): https://www.instructables.com/community?categoryGroup=all&category;=all .  Here's one on a line by itself: https://www.instructables.com/community?categoryGroup=all&category;=all .  Here's a link: https://www.instructables.com/community?categoryGroup=all&category;=all .  On single line: https://www.instructables.com/community?categoryGroup=all&category;=all .  Hmmm. None of those do it in the preview. .  Win XP Pro SP3, FF 3.6.3

Topic by NachoMahma  


How do I make a circuit that will flash and beep faster and faster?

To elaborate, I want to make a prop for a convention that looks and acts like a pipe bomb from Left 4 Dead. I was planning on making it out a piece of ~1-2 inch diameter PVC pipe about 6 or 8 inches long. The key is to be able to turn it on, have it beep and flash, and then throw it and have it beep and flash faster and faster until it either just turns off or, even better, makes an explosion sound. It need only run for 10 or 15 seconds at most. The prop in the game has external wiring and whatnot, but I can always add that cosmetically later. Thnaks for any tips.

Question  


I a trying to sell my old laptop, does anyone know how much an IBM thinkpad 600e is worth? Answered

I am selling my old laptop so I can buy an android tablet.  I want to sell it, but I have no idea how much it is worth.  Online their prices ranged from $20 to $200+.  Mine is used with slight cosmetic damage, but it has a dvd player and works great, except for the battery.  The battery doesn't hold a charge very well, but if you use it as a desktop, or spend thirty dollars on a new battery, then it would be fine.  I will see if I can post pictures soon. 

Question by furrysalamander    |  last reply


How to convert a battery pack to AC power? Answered

Wife owns a very expensive piece of Japanese cosmetic device that uses a very special Li-ion battery pack but the battery died! No way I can find a replacement for the battery pack and I am wondering how to convert it to an AC power? I have no experience doing this at all, so if you can provide as many details as possible, that will be great! The battery pack: 3 wires connected to the connector: red, black and yellow; 7.4V, 750mAh The AC adapter used for recharging the device: INPUT: 100VAC 50/60 Hz 8VA OUTPUT: 9VDC 500mA Thanks a lot!

Question by car2i    |  last reply


I want to decorate some plastic slider pencil cases for use as Family Reunion favors? Does anyone have any ideas? Answered

I would like for the decorations to be either "Family" or "Reunion" related. I plan to do 80-100 of these for varying age groups between 5yrs. and 80yrs. The cases come in various colors and will be filled with items useful to recipients according to gender/and age group, or something anyone could use one, such as personal toiletries, crafts, cosmetics, etc. As of this time, I'm not sure exactly what will go into them, since my budget is tight, but I would want the items to be useful. Any ideas on this part would also be appreciated.

Question by Gweniebee    |  last reply


Replicas?

Ok, so I decided to dabble in the art of replicating recently. However, I dont really know what gun I should replicate. What I know for sure:I dont want to replicate a gun that has been done a million times, like an AK-47 or an M4 Carbine.I dont want to do huge replicas that use too many partsThe guns I will replicate are not limited to just real life, I will also do guns from video gamesNo pistols. Most pistol replicas are just TDS copies with cosmetic mods.Post a picture of whatever gun you think fits these requirementsI was considering doing either the Halo sniper rifle, or the FAMAS. If anyone else has a suggestion, Im open.

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


How to extract a broken bit from a phillips head screw?

Anyone have a good way to extract a broken phillips bit from a screw head? It's the common #2 phillips head. The screw is a #10, stainless steel. When I was driving it in the bit snapped off so that it fills the slots in the screw head. I've tried picks and punches but it's still stuck in there. The screw is countersunk and it's in cosmetic wood (can't dig it out). I can't drill it and use an easy out because the bit is too hard to drill. To make things more difficult, the screw is inserted upward and the piece is a railing so it isn't movable. If there is a better forum for this question please let me know.

Topic by jc-smith    |  last reply


Wanted: Vehicle

Hey there I am a dude who is just trying to find a car, I recently had stolen and it went through a chop shop. The insurance company will only settle to give me a piece of crap settlement fund, so in other words I need a vehicle (preferably running). I live in the central Texas area, and would love some help here because I need a vehicle to get to work and school to pay my bills. Please PM me if you have any ideas or can offer any help on the subject. I only have a few hundred dollars I can spend (the insurance settlement). I don't mind doing a bit of work cosmetically, or even functionally as long as it wont cost me a fortune to fix up front. Thank you. AB

Topic by acidbass    |  last reply


CRIUS GPS module not sensitive anymore. Any ideas? Answered

It's been awhile since I have messed around with my quadcopter. However, the weather was really nice yesterday and I decided to go for a bit of a flight. Just about EVERYTHING on my quadcopter was messed up. To the point it was unflyable. Some reason my CRIUS GPS module simply stopped working as well as it used to. It still works, but instead of taking a few seconds to get a lock, with 7-9 satellites detected, it seems to take 5 to 10 minutes with only 4-5 satellites. All the while it is acquiring a lock, my battery is draining with the ESCs on standby and the gimbal motors drawing an amp or two. The ceramic square top seems to have been coated with a metal square, and that is scratched off in one corner and showing areas of damage. I thought this is just cosmetic damage, but is that actually damage to the antenna? I don't know much about GPS RF voodoo. How do these GPS antennas work?

Question by -max-    |  last reply


How to convert a battery pack to AC power?

Wife owns a very expensive piece of Japanese cosmetic device that uses a very special Li-ion battery pack but the battery died! No way I can find a replacement for the battery pack.  The battery pack available only has 2 wires (black and red) but not 3 wires (the yellow wire). I am afraid if I get a 2-wire battery pack, it won't work at all. There are lipo battery packs, but I don't think I can replace li-ion with lipo battery packs?! I am wondering how to convert it to an AC power? I have no experience doing this at all, so if you can provide as many details as possible, that will be great! The battery pack: 3 wires connected to the connector: red, black and yellow; 7.4V, 750mAh The AC adapter used for recharging the device: INPUT: 100VAC 50/60 Hz 8VA OUTPUT: 9VDC 500mA Thanks a lot!

Topic by car2i    |  last reply


Newb questions - magnets behind mirror!

Hi! I'm incredibly new here and already in way over my head! Hope this is the best place to ask this. I wanted to create a mirror that is magnetic to hold tweezers, nail clippers, etc. -  lots of little metal cosmetic bits that get lost around my home. I can't attach magnets to the items themselves because they are too small - would it be feasible to glue some rare earth magnets behind the mirror? Or will I just get a giant chunk of mirror embedded in my face? :( I'm trying to spruce my home up on the cheap and keep the small space organized. I have a sampler pack of rare earth magnets from lee valley and some framed mirrors already. If this is feasible could anyone tell me how far apart I should be spacing the magnets?  I feel like such newb! I guess I am one. But anyway, I humbly beg at your feet! Please help! Thanks folks!

Topic by Stasiasilver    |  last reply


Looking for LED help....

Hi there, I'm looking for for help with a project I'm working on and I'm tryin g to build a *fairly* simple LED bar light (similar to that which you see on an F1 steering wheel or a car Tachometer) for a gaming wheel.   Although I've done a lot of gooling and searched this forum I'm not sure where to start. My aim is to have around 15 LEDs in a row (5 green, 5 red and 5 blue) that light up one by one (and remaining on) from the left to right. Its purely cosmetic and not conntected to anything.  Ideally I'd want this to repeat 3 times on the when first powered then remain off until power is cut then restored. Here's a link to something similar that I'm trying to achieve and picture embedded too http://performancedrive.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2011/07/Ferrari-F150%C2%B0-Italia-1-1-scale-1.jpg I'm sure this must be realtively simple to do but I'm lost where to start.  Any help or simple to follow tutorials would be great. Thanks

Topic by Hazza24    |  last reply


Fan made Iron Man suit is pretty freakin' great

Anthony Le is such a fan of Iron Man that he built his own War Machine outfit. Based on concept sketches from before Iron Man 2 hit theaters, Le's suit has a motorized faceplate that flips up and down and a spinning Gatling gun on his shoulder. It's an amazing build and took Le a month to make at a cost of $4,000. Great job! Le, a fitness consultant, studied some concept sketches of the suit posted on the Internet. He used thin, high-impact urethane for the armor, cutting it into plates and joining them with some 1,500 rivets and washers. He sculpted a clay helmet mold and then used a liquid resin mix to create the final product. But that was just cosmetic work. He also added a small servo motor that opens the faceplate, as in the movie, and built a gun out of pipes and a motor. LEDs in the eyes and chest-plate further add to the illusion. You Built What?! A Real Iron Man Suit

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


I am CRUSHED.... :-(

I had finally gotten my "project" (for the gift exchange) finished, well except for some cosmetic touches to make it look nicer then it did.  I tested it for the last time, and a wire crossed and the speaker when POOF in a puff of smoke. This thing has me so depressed at not being able to finish it and get it sent that I am having troubles just getting back in and tearing it all out to replace the speaker and maybe put in a dampener resister to prevent it from happening again......I AM going to finish this one way or another......just wanted you all to know I am having to deal with a lot lately (my Mom becoming ill and maybe needing full time "residence in a facility" and being the only one left in the family willing to do anything, a whole lot has been dumped into my lap since July. But I DO intend on getting this out somehow, but Tuesday...but I am so sorry for this horribly long delay.

Topic by Goodhart    |  last reply


will "anti-graying" hair mousse work to dye hair? Answered

Hi again everyone despite many questions i STILL can't find a way to dye my blond-brown-white-ish hair black! (yes, it did fade back after the chocolate brown incident..) i have naturally multi-colored and highlighted hair and don't want to lose that from staining or using permanent dye. recently, while in a cosmetics store in a desperate attempt to find a dye, i found a "anti-graying" mousse for covering gray patches in hair, which claimed would rinse out with shampoo. will this work to dye a full head of thick, multi-colored hair or will it stain/look ridiculously fake? and does mousse amke your hair go hard like hairspray or make it clump together, stays wet, etc should i buy it and try it out on a small section of one of the white-ish highlights and see if it does work? (if it doesn't, i'll have only dyed less than an inch and will simply cut it off) or is it as simple as i can't dye my hair black? thank you instructables :D

Question by AussieAnglerGal    |  last reply


Need help with a lotion base recipe.

Hello, wasn't sure where to put this, and I didn't see a beauty forum.  Well. first of all. here is a formula for a lotion base that I tweaked. 8 oz distilled water 1 oz fresh aloe vera gel 1 oz floral water   1 tsp citric acid 2 oz glycerin 1 oz emulsifying wax 1 oz beeswax 1 oz shea butter 1 oz coconut oil 1 oz almond oil 1 oz avocado oil tsp essential oil 1/2 oz stearic acid I heard that 1 oz is about 2 Tbsp (tablespoons), but still not sure on this. It came out a bit thicker than I would like it.  I dunno if I should add more emulsifying wax, take out the beeswax, or both.  I need help making it less greasy feeling and a little thinner.  I made a batch I'm not sure what to do with.  I might just use it to repair those cases of dried out skin that appear around the winter season.  Any suggestions?

Topic by Crystalline_Chaos  


Oscilloscope PSU whining noise?

My oscilloscope is a Philips PM3055. It's a CRT type with a modular internal design, one PCB is the PSU, one is the front panel, a few are TTL, etc. When I try to turn it on the screen is blank and the PSU makes a whining/whistling noise, and does not function. The whining persists regardless of connection to other boards and mains ground. (mains ground is normally not connected to the PSU, but there's a connector) I have found no bulging/leaking capacitors (though I have no way of testing capacitance) or other visible damage, except for cracked plastic on the front panel. But that's merely cosmetic. Replacing the PSU is not an option, since the scope is old and obsolete. Neither is buying a new scope. I am broke. All help greatly appreciated! If you help me fix it, I might just send you one of those fancy patches. I can only provide cellphone-camera quality pictures at the moment, and for that I am sorry. [Edit / update] I contacted Advance Product Services, And they sent me the complete service manual for the scope, free of charge. Those guys are awesome!

Question by Tinker_Tom    |  last reply


AR-4 v3 mods.

Ok, so I made some mods to my AR-4 v3. There are 3 major mods, a couple of other minor cosmetic mods, and one performance mod. Picture 2- minor stock mod. This mod allows people to extend their stocks to make it longer. Picture 3- New hopper based off of Killerboy's removable mags. Major mod. By using his hopper as a fixed mag, It now allows me to hold 9 yellow rods, which is pretty big. It does jam, but rarely. The rounds will all stay in the hopper if you vigorously shake it, and you can remove the rounds pretty easily. Picture 4- Minor trigger mod. All it is is replacing the hinge with 2 Y connectors, a white rod, and a purple one slot connector. Picture 5- Scope mod. This connects the scope to the top of the gun, making it a better hand grip for carrying. Picture 6- Yet another scope mod. This mod was made to adapt to the new fake barrel, which was filled up instead of only the middle row having the orange connectors. Picture 7- Mod to the bottom of the gun. The last one was just having blue rods, this one fills it up with connectors. Picture 8- Foregrip mod. This is the second of the 3 major mods. I did away with the bipod and modded the bottom to have a new grip. Mainly a comfort mod. Picture 9- Barrel mod. The last major mod. This mod was made after several people noted that the ammo needed some 'Help' to get into the barrel. I basically just filled in the hollow area where the ammo would jump from the hopper to the barrel, so you dont have to stick your finger in. Picture taken from top of gun. That stuff above it is what you connect the scope to.

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


DarkOwlKnex's Project Update Two

As my profile status has said for a while now: I've been working on a TR8 and I might post a forum topic about it.  This is the forum topic about it.  It's amazing how often I've been on lately, but don't expect that in the future.  I sort of don't have anything else to do with my time other than going to the library, taking walks (It's nice out where I'm at) and a few other things, but the bulk of my time, for the week, has been spent here.  Stuff I have to do will keep popping up from here on out.            I call this custom  TR8 of mine The AutoSuggestion.  Why?  Because it's the name of this one song that I like.  I realize that I should send a link to the song, but I figure since you guys won't like it anyway, what's the point.  (I have a weird taste in music) It Features: A comfortable stock. A comfortable handle.   A comfortable fore grip. Innovative new TR body design. I can't really say anything else about it until I'm finished; once I finish, I can you tell about the range, and other things.  I'm going to have to make many cosmetic changes before I upload it to the Rods and Connectors contest.  (Thanks, JonnyBGood for alerting me of this contest)  Any helpful suggestions as to what I can do to improve it would be much appreciated.  Thanks for viewing! Update: I finished the rough draft; the pictures will now show the latest version; it is now on the official prototype phase.  I'm probably just going to tinker with it excessively until it's perfect for the Rods & Connectors Contest. Update: Made it fire; gets decent range so far.  Installed turret rotating system; it requires bands, but is very easy to use.  Update: Cleaned up stock and barrel area.  I also made a completely new handle.

Topic by DarkOwlProductions    |  last reply


I have something here that needs fixing ASAP

Well I have this Gigatube stereo that I am borrowing from a family member. That site in the link isn't very descriptive, 55 watts per main channel..lol. We have the higher end model (they made different models of the gigatube series at the time of purchase, btw that pocket too).Apparently from sitting up in our attic here not being used (yes it was in it's original box however), it appears to have developed a leak in the left sub's chamber. You can hear it when you turn it up anywhere past volume 10, but if I push on the plexi-glass, it stops making a vibrating sound, and it sounds fine from there.I tried tightening up the 6 screws around the plexiglass plate, underneath the front cosmetic plate (they're actually better designed than it looks from the picture, and produce some of the cleanest notes I've heard from a stereo of it's size). Anyways, that didn't fix things, and being they screw into plastic, I did not want to over tighten anything.Just today I took the screws out and the plate literally just fell off the speaker (if I didn't explain before, the plexi-glass seals around the front, allowing you to see the sub, but it bounces the bass back up the tube and it comes out there, from the looks of it, it's a 3rd type bandpass box). It looks like JVC glued these things on with something hard and flaky like superglue or something similar.So here I am now, and I'm wondering what I should use to glue it back on so it makes a TIGHT seal, I have a squeeze tube of this Clear silicone transparent adhesive sealant, would this be suitable? I found this tube after my father handed me a tube of caulking and I told him only a fool would use caulking on a sub, especially one of these pups.Sorry for the long, long, long post as usual, but I like to try to explain everything up front so I can get a answer sooner without having to wait for replies to "what is that" or lack of specifications, whatever. There's some pictures to enjoy below, don't worry I'm not bugging you guys for nothing :P

Topic by Punkguyta    |  last reply


I have 4 guns, which one should I create an instructable for?

Alright, I'm not new to knex guns, I've been making them for a good 2 years. However, I AM new to making instructables for my own guns. Now, I have a list of 4 guns I have made, let me describe them so the community can choose which one I should make: 1. SSAP : A Standard Semi Automatic Pistol that I designed to look like a real pistol. While it doesnt look similar to any one real firearm, i does look like a real pistol. It is TRUELY semi automatic, I have designed it to be easy to use, and easy going on the fingers. Many semi automatic guns can be a pain to constantly push around the trigger, but not this one. It has a hidden magazine that holds 3 green rods. Now, since it is a semi automatic pistol it doesnt shoot as far as other single action guns. 2. SBAR : A Standard Bolt Action Rifle that holds 6 blue rods. It is an extremely sturdy and reliable, the magazine almost never jams. WITH the detachable barell it shoots about 30 feert, however you can easily get rid of the barrel and have it shoot even further, however I keep the barrel for cosmetics. It is my personal favorite of my creations and I am yet to take it apart for any other gun I see on instructables. 3. Desert Eagle Semi Automatic Pistol This is my most recent gun, I never actually meant for it to look like a desert eagle, however in the middle of construction I realised the resemblance and decided to make it a replica of the desert eagle. It is like my first semi auto pistol, however it holds 5 shots, is MUCH bigger and shoots white rods instead of green rods, which I suspect increases the distance. However if you have small hands (like me) it may feel slightly uncomfortable so I advise building the smaller SSAP above. It has the most resemblance to a desert eagle than all the other pistols I've seen on instructables (Believe me, I searched "Knex Desert Eagle) Remember, this also has a hidden magasine and is semi auto so it doesnt shoot that far compared to other guns. So guys, please respond and ask me to post an instructable for one. I look forward to being a part of the knex weapon community :).

Question by WillCooper    |  last reply


Steampunk Volkswagen anyone?

Dear Fellow Instructable Steampunk aficionados, I'm starting plans for my biggest steampunk project ever... a steampunk Volkswagon Beetle!;-) We haven't bought it yet, but my wife and I are heading to Brazil for the summer, and are planning on buying an old VW Beetle, (or a "Fusca" as they affectionately call them locally), to bum around in a sleepy beach town. These cars were once very popular in Brazil, but have been replaced by far more fuel efficient, and largely ethanol powered cars. So an old Beetle can be had for cheap... And my wife has given me the okay to go ahead and steampunk it out to my hearts delight! My initial plans are for purely cosmetic changes. (I'm not planning on installing a steam-powered engine any time soon, although that would certainly be cool;-) I've seen Jake Von Slatt's photos and videos of his steampunk car project, but I thought I'd check with the folks on Instructables to see if anyone has any suggestions. (And when I say anyone, I put heavy stress on my German steampunk colleagues;-) All suggestions (and photos) are welcome! Please post here... Will keep you posted on my progress. Best, Winged Fist Update: 6/27/12 (An eventful day) Today we became the proud owners of a 1975 Volkswagen Beetle! The body is a bit beaten with a few signs of rust, but I'm told that the engine is sound, the electrical work is good and the tires are pretty new. If all goes as planned, I'll get to drive it for the first time next week, when I arrive in Brazil. (Then let the steampunking begin;-) Today I also became a member of the VWoodies user group on Yahoo. Lots of great pictures and inspiration for modifying an old VW Beetle. And the moderator, Senhor California, has an amazing 70s model Beetle he has completely modified into a Woody, which he keeps in Brazil! (In my opinion it has quite a steampunk flare to it). And not coincidentally, today I received in the mail my Hula Girl bobble dashboard ornament, and my California Pacific VW Parts and Accessories catalog from jbugs.com It's looking like this car is going to take on a steampunk/woody/surfer theme... Update: 7/23/12 Well it's been exactly a month since I posted this query, and I'm proud to report that this project is almost complete! After almost two weeks of non-stop renovating and remodeling, scraping sanding and painting, our quasi-steampunk, faux-woody VW Beetle is nearly finished! There are still a few details to finish, (like getting the driver's door to stay closed when we're driving;-), but other than that I'm very pleased with the way this old bug has turned out! This past weekend, she took her maiden voyage, sporting her new look - to the beach of course. (Praia Linda, in the Lake Region of Rio de Janeiro, in case your interested). The one unsolicited comment we overheard was that she looked like an old armoire... and not in a good way;-) The transformation from a bricklayer's workhouse to a beach woody was a laborious one, but now our '75 Fusca can spend her golden years carting beach chairs, coolers and kayaks instead of hauling bricks and cement;-) I plan to post a full Instructable on this project, but for now, wanted to give those interested a taste of the nearly finished product. (I'm also amazed with how much the finished product resembles the photoshop rendition I created, before I ever laid eyes on the car).

Topic by Winged Fist    |  last reply


"Re-inventing The Wheel"

Say hello to Mr.T.  He is old, simple, and there is really nothing special about him.  However, Mr.T is a sneaky little feller.  He likes putting on clever disguises like iron sights and stocks and even removable magazines to make people think that he is special.  But he isn't.  He's been around for years now, and for some reason, can't accept that his time is done.  As a community, we are going to get rid of Mr.T. I hope you found that funny, but more importantly, I hope that you took it seriously.  No, I am not talking about the guy who played Clubber Lang in the third rocky.  I am talking about the K'nex gun that has been built and posted thousands of times, and makes the rest of the Instructables community hate K'nex gun builders.  At this point, pretty much any search done on this site will result in at least one K'nex gun.  What is worse?  They are all the same.  The "T" format is the most simple, most redundant approach to building a K'nex aside from the now heavily discriminated block trigger guns.  They involve three things: 1.  A vertical magazine 2.  A firing ram 3.  A trigger Any gun that requires only these three components to operate is, in my opinion, pointless.  Despite cosmetic features such as stocks and iron sights, all "T" format guns are exactly the same.  Yes, they do work, and some of them even work very well, but at this point, improvement will only occur with change, not with repetition.    Compared to a few years ago, this K'nex community is dwindling on the edge of a cliff.  Many people have lost interest because nothing new was being made, so they just quit.  I do not support this decision, but I cannot blame them either.  Like many of the other "veterans" on this site, I have been on and off, but have never officially quit.  Sometimes one just needs to think.   Hopefully by now, I have made it clear: not another Mr.T should be posted ever again.  They are great guns for those learning the ropes.  That is about it.  There are so many other options out there.  Horizontal magazines, pump systems, lever systems, bolt systems, and so many more.  Make up your own system!  Combine different systems!  There are millions, maybe billions of different ways to put a thousand K'nex together, so why limit yourself.  You are all builders, which means that you see things in your head before you make it.  But sometimes these ideas come to us in inopportune times, so what do you do?  Write it down.  Even if your drawing skills are as pathetic as mine, just scribble it out so you can make sense of it, and then refine it later with a ruler.  Then get to work on it. So, here are the steps you can take to advance this community: 1.  Stop posting Mr.T!!!  He can be a good teacher, but that is about all. 2.  Be different!  My goal when I entered this community was to make guns that nobody has ever made.  No two of my guns are similar, nor are my guns like any others out there.  You have millions of options.  Make use of them! 3.  If you have an idea, write it down!  Even if it seems absurd, I guarantee that it, even if it only be small parts of it, will improve your building skill. I really hope this has made you want to make something different. Not much more I can say.  Just go do it. Oblivitus and TheDunkis have started building a database of different gun elements and different ways of approaching them.  Check it out and feel free to contribute!   http://knexbuilding.wikispaces.com/ 

Topic by Kinetic    |  last reply


Instructables in the New York Times - In a Highly Complex World, Innovation From the Top Down

Instructables, and my Purple Shoes got a nice mention in the New York Times here.In a Highly Complex World, Innovation From the Top Downby G. PASCAL ZACHARYUSER-GENERATED content - from Wikipedia to YouTube to open-source software - is generating waves of excitement. But the opening of innovation to wider numbers of people obscures another trend: many of the most popular new products, like the iPod, are dominated by a top-down, elite innovation model that doesn't allow for customization."New technologies are becoming so complex that many are beyond the possibility of democracy playing a role in their development," said Thomas P. Hughes, a science and technology professor at the University of Pennsylvania.Consider: Electronic implants into human bodies; gene-splicing as common as cosmetic surgery; computer networks mining vast databases to discern consumer preferences. All of these innovations are the result of corporate or government initiatives overseen by elites."The process of innovation leaves out a huge proportion of the population," said Daniel Sarewitz, director of the Consortium for Science, Policy and Outcomes at Arizona State University.To be sure, experts like Eric von Hippel, a management professor at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, argue that the proliferation of "user-generated" designs signals the "democratizing" of innovation. Armed with inexpensive digital tools and networks, ordinary people, he says, can band together to push their own innovations. They also can hijack existing technologies, taking them in directions only dimly envisioned by the original creators.One example is an electronic community called Instructables whose participants share methods for customizing standard products in unpredictable ways. The chief of Instructables, Eric J. Wilhelm, who earned his doctorate at M.I.T., where he was inspired by Mr. von Hippel, has posted a clever means of turning a white Asics Gel-Foundation 7 running shoe into a purple model. (The $90 official version comes only in a white-black-and-blue combination.)Today's Web-savvy consumers "expect innovations to meet their needs," Mr. Wilhelm says. "If innovation isn't tailored to them, they expect to be able to tailor it to themselves. That is a big change."But does this really mean that elites no longer sit at the top of the innovation food chain?"Elites have a lot of leverage but less than they used to," says Peter Leyden, director of the New Politics Institute in San Francisco. "More people are getting their voices heard." Mr. Leyden sees an emergent American "republic of innovation," where growing numbers of people influence what innovations are made and when.Skeptics, however, say that the rosy scenario is exaggerated and that user-generated innovation is merely a kind of "democracy lite," emphasizing high-end consumer products and services rather than innovations that broadly benefit society."Difficult questions are going unasked about who is participating in innovation and on what terms," says James Wilsdon, director of the innovation program at Demos, a think tank in London.In that scenario, needed innovations can be overlooked. For example, huge amounts of money are spent on improving Web search engines or MP3 players, while scant attention is given to alternative energy sources. Battling diseases like AIDS or Alzheimer's - efforts that lobbying groups in wealthy countries help highlight - attract legions of well-financed innovators, while big global killers, like childhood diarrhea and sleeping sickness, are ignored.Popular pressure to pursue certain innovations sometimes gets results, of course. In 2004, voters in California passed a law lavishly funding a stem-cell research institute - in a rebuke to the Bush administration, which has banned federal funding for such research. "This was a great example of a democratic adjudication of an innovation issue," Mr. Sarewitz of Arizona State said. Even so, bureaucratic and legal delays have meant a slow start for the San Francisco lab, which has not yet received approval to spend any of the $3 billion in promised taxpayer funds.The California example suggests that the balance between expert leadership and mass influence is hard to achieve. The underlying complexity of many innovations demands an ever-rising technological literacy from the public, and yet such an outcome "is a dream that will not likely come to pass," insists Mr. Hughes, a visiting professor at M.I.T.For all the hoopla over the power and promise of user-generated content, consumer-directed design and other hallmarks of our new golden era of democratized innovation, one of the iconic products of our times - the iPod - can't be customized (no, I'm not counting putting on different-colored protective jackets). There is an unbroken line between Henry Ford (with his Model T) and Steve Jobs. The new iPhone similarly reflects the elite, corporate innovator's drive to find one size that fits many.The cliche that committees can't create great ideas, or art, still seems to be true - though whether or not that is the best way to innovate remains an open question. Who knows how much longer?

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


I have an allergy to the silicone in my CPAP mask liner. I seek an alternative "skin safe" material to mold a new liner?

I am seeking a skin safe or hypoallergenic moldable & (pliable after molding) gel-like material (firmness medium) that I can use to mold a replacement for my silicone CPAP mask "liner." CPAP masks are worn nightly by people with the medical condition - Obstructive Sleep Apnea - the mask is connected by hose to a small medical machine that forces air down your throat to keep those with Sleep Apnea from ceasing to breath while sleeping.  The "liner" is the replaceable soft part of the CPAP mask that goes against your face (skin) to assure a good seal and no air leakage) I personally have the capability of making a mold of my original silicone mask liner then reproducing it (for my personal, not commercial purposes) - I just need to identify a moldable material (with similar characteristics to silicone), but that does not cause rashes and skin outbreaks and the allergic reaction to silicone. Hundreds of people have an allergic reaction to silicone. Multiple dermatologists have been unable to provide a solution or effective treatment. Any "skin safe" (might be hypoallergenic or not but probably would be?) moldable material that may be currently used in the production of various medical devices or medical devices that are inserted into the body (cosmetic surgery) or devices that are by necessity held against the skin would likely be a candidate for me to produce an alternative to a silicone mask liner. Or it might be a material with other uses or a totally new material on the market? I note that there are literally hundreds if not thousands of CPAP mask users who suffer from this very same allergic reaction to silicone but unfortunately, to date, the CPAP manufacturing industry has chosen to continues to produce 100% of CPAP mask liners from silicone alone. There is no alternative on the market. One can easily find hundreds of posts on CPAP forums complaining of this same silicone allergy problem with no solution currently available or even on the horizon. For legal reasons, I unequivocally state that this post should not be construed in any way as a "negative critique" of the CPAP manufacturing industry or any of their products or the materials used in those products, but it is simply a genuine request by an individual in need, for help and assistance from a very highly knowledgable base of Instructable readers. I further note that the various types of cloth covers that are sold by some small niche companies, to cover the silicone CPAP liners are (in my personal view) only partially effective for some, and fully ineffective for many (myself included) in addressing this silicone allergy problem. This (in my personal case) is NOT the needed solution It is a band-aid at best. The solution is a hypoallergenic moldable alternative to silicone that has the same pliable sealing properties as silicone but without the allergic skin reaction. Additionally,  I have an allergic reaction to the "neoprene" material that is used in the production of virtually 100% of CPAP mask harnesses (the strap that goes around and behind your head to hold the CPAP mask in place). So I am also seeking an alternative material that I can use to construct a (non-neoprene) harness. A slightly stretchable hypoallergenic material would be ideal but frankly it could be made of any (skin safe) material even if non-stretchable. I am open to any suggestions. If you wish to view an example (image) of a full CPAP mask you can see it here: http://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed-mirage-quattro-fx-full-face-mask-headgear.html If you wish to view an example (image) of a CPAP mask silicone liner (replaceable) you can see it here: http://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed-full-face-mask-cushion-mirage-Quattro-FX.html If you wish to view an example (image) of a CPAP mask harness (made of neoprene) you can see it here: http://www.cpap.com/productpage/resmed-mirage-quattro-fx-full%20face-headgear.html?source=igodigital I am very grateful for your kind assistance with this rather challenging problem...despite considerable ongoing research on my part I have been unable to identify an appropriate alternative (to silicone) material for my CPAP mask liner nor have multiple individuals suffering with the same silicone allergy been able to identify an alternative. I have frequently trolled all of the major CPAP forums and there simply has been no effective solution identified to properly address this silicone allergy problem. 

Question by kick991    |  last reply


Robo-Goat Lives - At least I hope he Will

OK here goes. I work at zoo and I am a self taught geek, (mainly old school). I recently volunteered for a project mainly because I'm too stupid to know that it's not possible :~) Purpose of the program/project To - Engineer, Design and Build an Animatronic Robot Goat for: a Cheetah Conservation Fund in Kenya, Africa. This device will replicate a live goat in: size; appearance; movement; sound and smell (smell supplied by others), that can withstand the sever conditions of the desert, durable, possibly solar powered and easy to transport, setup and operate. Note: Up until this point real goats have been tried but they have not been too successful. They were either too stressed or they were stolen for by locals their meat. Objective(s): To lure Cheetahs into an area and enticement them into a cage trap with a simulated live goat (Robo-Goat), to provide a safe humane and ethical capture of wild cheetahs so that recently acquired state of the art GPS/Cellular tracking collars can be placed on them to help gather information to preserve this endangered animal. Analog Radio Tracking Collars have provided the only way to gather much of the information for many different wild animals. Radio Tracking style of the past has always been a difficult and time consuming endeavor, with old style tracking, large heavy radio collars that broadcast a ”beep” continuously, must be tracked with specialized hand-held radios and yagi antennas. All this to locate an animal being studied. Many times you would have to get close enough to disturb the animal just to find out where it is and then try to track it. Obviously not good “normal behavior” data gathering. The new GPS/Cellular systems track the animal in real time and send back data coordinates on the animals location, elevation, speed and direction as it travels. This GPS information is sent via cell towers, (yes they have them in Africa), to a computer that logs and graphs the movements. The research gathered through these efforts may provide the answers to saving these endangered animals. Project design/methods: #1. Establish parameters Record video & audio movements and sounds of normal & panicked goats Research and study movements and demonstrate what mechanical requirements will be necessary to replicate the minimum needed movements - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head; Look left and right; open/close mouth} Determine movement engine {I'm not sure here} {All of the movements are really axial in nature} {At first I was thinking motors but then there are end stops, control systems, ect. To deal with} {next I'm considering solenoids for the low energy requirements and simple full scale movements, except you cant control the speed} {But now I am becoming fixated on model airplane actuators for low weight, low noise and appendage like joints and accessories} {then I ran across "pager motors" and how they are small powerful and inexpensive some how I don't know where to begin} {can you tell this is all still up in the air?} Throw distance & Speed of movement - [DONE]. {Raise and lower head = 90 degrees of arc from base of neck = 5 seconds max} { Look left and right = 90 degrees of arc from left to right with return to normal center point half way = full movement l-r = 2 seconds max i hope} {open/close mouth = 45 degrees of arc from lower jaw = 1 second max} Repetition rate & pattern {random if possible} Determine audio requirements - [DONE]. {this is easy but requires playback trigger synchronized with mouth} The Cosmetics: Determine body and outer skin requirements – [Engineering]. {aluminum wire frame mesh} {foam sculpted head for low mass} {foam wrap suit for body & legs for low mass} {tyvek skin, airbrushed or penned for low mass} {stainless steel / nylon joints for low mass} DB level of normal and panicked goats - [DONE] {I have determined audio system requirements} Determine control system requirements {clueless at this point} Determine power requirements {I'm thinking deep cell marine battery and solar panels to retain charge autonomously} {amp hour rating for battery and solar charging circuit TBD after R&D; tests} {if solar is not feasible them battery exchange schedule TBD} #2 Acquire all electronic and mechanical parts #3 Create mechanicals Fabricate lightweight frame and skeleton structure. Assemble motion joints and motion engine Assemble and test motor functions Determine estimate of MTBF for spare parts, if any #4 Create & install sound system Edit custom audio media for both normal & panicked goats Utilize 12v Solid State Audio Playback Unit # 5 Create Control System #6 R&D; Testing Test charging and power circuit Final assembly #7 Final test Any help to provide suggestions to get me started on the type of engines would be great. tia

Topic by sharpfocus  


Can I Turn My Old Macbook Into a DIY Mac Pro Tower?

Preface/Background: I am fairly new to DIY tech projects. I have built two HTPCs, but I doubt that really counts. It does, however, give me a basic idea of how all of the components go together. I'm not terribly savvy when it comes to specs of computer components. I have an '08 Macbook that has just been gathering dust since I upgraded ~1 year ago. Recently, my side job as a freelancer (graphic design & video) has been picking up. My new machine is pretty powerful, but the time it takes to get my laptop setup with all of my peripherals is starting to get old. There are also times when I crave some extra speed & I often have to stop working in the middle of a project to clear up disk space or set up an external drive. I remembered seeing a project where Mosburn converted his macbook into a Mac Mini on Gizmodo a few years ago, which got me excited. It was written in 2008, and may be a little dated. I'm looking to do a similar project, but I'm not really looking for size/design. I'm looking for POWER! The Macbook in question is version 4,1. As I said, looks aren't a big issue for me (nor size). I now have an extra room in my house and it is going to be set up as an office. Everything still works on the laptop, although the battery no longer holds a charge. I initially planned to sell it, but with the dead battery and some cosmetic damage, I could only get about $200 for it. I think this project would be more valuable to me than that. Project Goals: -Use as much of my existing laptop as possible (the whole buffalo) -Use a case that allows upgrades (more memory, more drives) -Increase memory (current: 4 | desired:16+) -Increase disk space (current: 80gb | desired: 2tb+) -At least 1 Solid State I know the Mac OS is pretty picky when it comes to components, so the initial question is: Will the system accept my desired spec upgrades? I know that I have to use compatible brands, I just want to make sure there isn't some sort of "maximum" hard coded. Will I be able to use both Solid State and Disk drives? I would like to get a smaller Solid State as a primary, and a couple of large disk drives for storage and scratching. I may get a dock so I can quickly switch drives that are strictly storage, but for now I just want a couple TBs inside. Also, would you suggest using the existing power cable? Or would it be benificial to swap in a new power supply? I'm not sure how intensive that might be, but I'm guessing a few more drives will require it. I think it is safe to assume that I will need to use some advanced DIY techniques, as far as my experience goes. As I stated before, I've built a few PCs before, but these were all fairly simple. Connecting components to the motherboard were as easy as plugging them in. I've done a (very) small amount of soldering before on other DIYs, but they were all done on fairly big parts and precision was not an issue. If soldering might be needed, I will need some help with this as well. I am hoping there are some guides out there to help me understand what goes where on my particular motherboard. I'm also a little worried that I may have to do some cutting (as done in the project linked above). Hopefully the fact that I don't need a small case, I won't have to deal with that. I plan on buying a high res screen to use with this machine, but I'm not sure what I plan to do with the existing LCD yet. I'm not sure how much I might be able to sell it for, or how much it might cost to buy a stand to mount it with. It is a pretty nice screen, but it's long before the time of the Retina display, so it may not be worth messing with. If anyone has any suggestions for what approach to take, or a link to an existing guide, please share them below. Another fear I have is that the variations in MacBook models may make finding an applicable and useful guide more difficult. Another note: Cost isn't really an issue. I hope to first accomplish this project using mostly the materials at hand - worrying about upgrading my specs later. If this is possible, the only expenses should be a new case, a few cables, and possibly a new power supply. I'd like to preemptively thank anyone who might offer help. I've been wanting to make a move to tech DIY for years and this project seems to be a great starting point. I hope this leads to many more and that I can soon be a helpful contributor here as well.

Question by MrCarder    |  last reply