Why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ?

I am an electronic engineer in the field of RF directional couplers, but I am puzzled about this question, why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ? Today I come to this forum to turn to you to discuss my understandings are appropriate. Here are my personal understandings: RF radio frequency is referred to as RF current, it is a high frequency AC change electromagnetic wave short. Less than 1000 times per second changes in alternating current called low frequency current, more than 10000 times called high frequency current, and radio frequency is such a high frequency current. RF technology in the field of wireless communications with a wide range of irreplaceable role. In the electronics theory, the current flows through the conductor, the conductor will form a magnetic field around; alternating current through the conductor, the conductor will form an alternating electromagnetic field, known as electromagnetic waves. When the electromagnetic wave frequency is lower than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave will be absorbed by the surface, can not form an effective transmission, but the electromagnetic wave frequency is higher than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave can be spread in the air, and the outer edge of the ionospheric reflection, the formation of long-distance transmission capacity (Analog or digital) with high-frequency current modulation (amplitude modulation or FM), the formation of radio frequency signals, through the antenna to launch into the air, the radio frequency of the high-frequency electromagnetic waves.  Long-range radio frequency signal received after the anti-modulation, reduced to the electrical information source, this process is called wireless transmission. Wireless transmission developed for nearly two hundred years, forming a large number of users and product groups, but because of climate change and the impact of surface obstacles, can not transmit the perfect information. Modern human invention of the cheap high-frequency transmission cable (radio frequency line), in order to pursue the perfect quality of information transmission, taking into account the original wireless devices, wireless cable transmission began to pop. Resulting in the concept of radio frequency transmission. If your information source through the secondary modulation, with the cable to the opposite end, the opposite side with anti-modulation of the information source after the re-application, no matter how low frequency, but also radio frequency transmission, if there is no modulation anti-modulation process, The information source is transmitted directly to the opposite end of the cable, no matter how high the frequency, are the general cable transmission. SI --- Signal Integrity Signal Integrity PI --- Power Integrity Power Integrity emc --- electromagnetic compatibility Electromagnetic Compatibility rf - radio frequency RF emc = emi + ems EMI = Conduction + Radiation Emission SI: The Fourier transform shows that the higher the signal rises, the higher the amplitude of the higher harmonics. The MAXWELL equations see that these alternating harmonics produce alternating current at the adjacent line. And even through the space parasitic capacitance directly to another conductor, so these high harmonics is caused by radiation interference (emission) of the main factors; (that the simple point is that the signal rise faster, the more complete the signal, the better the signal quality, But for emi bad) . PI: PCB exists on the number \ \ analog area, high frequency \ 'low frequency region and other different areas and planes, if the partition is not easy to interfere with each other, that is, conduction conduction (conduction). Ps: Excuse me if I was wrong in words or expressions as I am a green hand in the field of RF directional couplers. I need continual learnings. What is your idea ? Do you agree with my ideas ? Any of your ideas would be highly appreciated. May someone would like to help ? thanks in advance.

Topic by maryzhu 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


What is the best way to affix a hose with a 1/4 " inside diameter to a pvc pipe with a 3 " inside diameter?

Kind of like what this guy has in his instructable video: https://www.instructables.com/id/make-a-manual-vacuum-pump-for-under-$20-by-convert/ but a lot better.  For my application it has to be something that can be tightened down into place.  It has to seal.  Also instead of a mason jar I'm using a pvc pipe.

Question by mattbliese 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


How can I manufacture a bike trailer coupler to replicate this one? Answered

We recently bought a secondhand InStep brand bike trailer to haul the kids around in.  It came with one coupler.  I'd like another one that I can attach to a second bike so we can easily move the trailer from one to the other. The couplers are available online for around $10, but for various reasons I prefer not to buy that way.  I'd rather try to make something that will work, buying materials locally.  I've looked at several trailer coupler Instructables, but none of them seem like they'd work with this trailer"s tongue, and I don't want to modify it, since it works just fine with the existing coupler. Any suggestions for a way to make a good, strong, secure coupler?

Question by yoyology 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Will this launcher design work?

Concept - A hybrid-launcher (combustion and pneumatics) with interchangeable barrels for various projectile types So the design is pretty simple, in the back of the gun launcher thing (we’ll call it ‘the weapon’ for now) will be a propellant chamber measuring 2.5” wide and 1.5’ long. On one end of the propellant chamber will be an unscrewable coupler. On the other end, a 2.5” ball valve. Attached to the ball valve will be the female end of a 2.5” coupler (without cap) From here will be the interchangeable barrels, which are simple. The barrels would consist of the male end of the 2.5” coupler and a 2.5” width converter, converting the width from 2.5" to various different sizes for the different projectile sizes (this would have to be one piece for durability, idk if such a piece exists, I hope it does, if not, i can make one) the barrel itself would measure 3’ in length A Shrater valve (bike tire valve) will be installed on the propellant chamber (for pneumatic power). A bike pump would be mounted on the weapon (like a shotgun kinda) An ignitor will be installed on the back of the chamber, mounted on the unscrewable coupler.  

Question by ishmal1103 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


1/2" OD Square Tube Coupler/connector/corner for cold frame

Hi, I've picked up a fair amount of 1/2" square tube that's used in closet systems - supporting the wire shelves.  http://c.shld.net/rpx/i/s/pi/mp/1363/prod_3099862803?src=http%3A%2F%2Fsite.unbeatablesale.com%2F%2FEB162%2Forgl1522.gif&d;=d94ddeca8805b06f5f7339b629c7270df34a2b26&hei;=245&wid;=245&op;_sharpen=1&qlt;=85 I'm looking for some connectors so i can make some frames. the link below is a coupler for round tube, but i've got square tube pictured in the link above. https://media2.masters.com.au/media/MASTERS/Product/1000x1000/900036043_0_9999_v1_m56577569830513162.jpg I' making some cold frames and will attach single pane glass panels, or some opaque corrugated plastic (just like cardboard,  but its semi-transparent plastic). I don't have a welder so i can't weld the frames together. I'd like to get some 3-way connectors so i can connect a vertical piece and two lateral pieces to make something like this: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61w7DLvf8PL._SL1000_.jpg or even something like this: http://www.garden-products.co.uk/resources/images/23569_huge.jpg i also would like to have something like this swivel connector to use for the opening top window portion: http://cdn3.volusion.com/6vf93.6qdpf/v/vspfiles/photos/8940171567-2.jpg I can't seem to find any square tube couplers/connectors anywhere on the web (except for some that are in the UK) that are less than $5-$10 each. Has anyone else had a similar need, or know of a solution? if i made the drawings in ketchup, could someone reading this post 3-D print them for me to test/prototype??? thanks, Mac

Topic by MCrollman 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


I need to attach a 3/4" shaft to a 1/4" motor shaft. Looking for a place to buy it or how to make it? Answered

I basically need to attach a motor with a 1/4" shaft to a 3/4" threaded rod. I know they make shaft couplers with set screws, but I have not seen one with that big a difference in bore DIA. I attached an image to show you what they look like.

Question by galaxyman7 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


What is the best route to adding a USB power source to a guitar amplifier?

My girlfriend has a Fishman Loudbox Mini amp which has a 3.5mm auxiliary input on the back. She bought a cheapo bluetooth audio receiver that is powered by USB and outputs through its own 3.5mm jack. It works great but it takes up two wall outlets, and drastically reduces the distance it can be from the wall due to a short audio cable. So I need an easier power source for the USB dongle. I had imagined a coupler that would sit between the amp and its power cable. I could frankenstein a USB-wall-outlet connector into this coupler to provide a USB power source close to the aux input. However it may be easier to find a 5V source inside the amp and just add a usb port. I'm not sure, which is why I'm creating this post.

Question by Nameless37 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


gas wall heater

The pilot light will not stay lit? i have replaced the "generator " which is what they call it rather then a thermo coupler . wondering if i should pull the gas valve ? I'm not exactly sure on how the generator keeps the pilot gas on? anyone have any ideas?

Question by george.stevens.52035 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Tire Tee

I want to make a tire tee for my softball-loving daughter. I saw the one in the link below and thought it would be an easy (and cheap) DIY. http://i44.tinypic.com/9tzol5.gif I'd want it to be portable, as her team is talking about practicing inside a school gym when it gets cold and this would be an excellent tool for hitting inside. My thought was to fill a bucket with concrete and stick the pole in it which would be my base. It looks like there's some PVC slipped over the pole with a pin/screw/bolt holding it at the height. If I want to get really fancy, I can drill multiple holes and adjust the height for each girl. The weight of the tire should provide enough resistance on its own. I want to limit any extra resistance from the tee as much as possible. The question I have is about the pivoting tire. What's the best way to set that up? I could have two pieces of PVC connected by a coupler and the tire would rest on the coupler. Or I could secure the the tire to the PVC in some way and when the batter hits it, the tire AND PVC rotates around the base pole. Any suggestions about this? I appreciate any insight! Thanks!

Topic by gharper1 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


How do I remove the gear that's attached to this printer motor?

I've salvaged a stepper motor out of an old printer, but I'm having trouble taking the gear off of the spindle bit. I can't see any method of releasing it, so it's not screwed on or anything. I've got a blurrycam image (sorry!) so I hope you can see what it looks like... On a related note, anyone know of a decent place to get a coupler from in England? Thanks!

Question by LogicNot 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


pumatic airsoft gun help ? Answered

Ok so heres my situation. About 6 months ago I made my own pneumatic airlift sniper but even though I could get about 80 lbs of pressure stored up before I pulled my trigger my sniper only shot as far as my 300 fps gun. My question is why cuz I had a lot more force in my pneumatic sniper then my other gun and it doesn't seem to matter. My sniper was made of a metal nipple about 9 inches long and 2 inches in diameter. I then put a cap on one end and a reducing coupler on the other. I drilled a hole in the cap and inserted a valve that allowed me to attach the chamber to a bike pump. On the end with the reducer I then added a ball valve that worked as my trigger. After the ball valve was another reducing coupler that brought the size down from an inch to 1/2 an inch. Into this coupler I screwed a break line about 50 cm long(sorry about the unit change I don't remeber its length in inches) and it fit the bb very nicely. I also added a little contraption I made from paper clips that allowed the gun to be tired downward without the bb falling out. However I don't believe this was the problem as I fired the gun when their was just a wire across the back of my breakline ,to keep the bb from falling into the gun ,and the distance seemed the same. I made sure every connection before the ball valve was sealed well except that the gun did leak at a rate of 20 lbs for minute because of a bad connection with the valve that connected with the bike pump. If you need more info just say so in the comments but I don't have the gun with me right now so all i have to go off of is my memory. Thanks for your help I really appreciate it. : )

Question by inconceivable1 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


nerf gun airtech 2000 and 3000 mod!

Alright... so i hooked a soda bottle up to a nerf airtech 2000 (when i get the stuff for the 3000 i will do that one too) and so now i have a big resivoir and i have a way of hooking it up to a bike pump so i can pump it up to a reasonable pressure and run around and cause pain without tired arms. but the guns pump still works (and gets it up to about 40 psi after 2 minutes of pumping) you use a 4 way coupler WITH HOSE CLAMPS! and use tubing rated for pressure! you have a schrader valve (or similar) and plug the pump on the 4 way along with the out line. (this was done on a 2000, the 3000 may or may not work) DONT HOLD DOWN THE TRIGGER! if you do then much of the pressure will be lost. now you can shoot easily and not be found out by pumping noises) im sorry i dont have a diagram. so when your done... the soda bottle (2 litre is the best! it lasts longer), schader valve, output, and input from the onboard pump should all be on the 4 way coupler and be hose clamped (if not the hoses will fly off and youll hear a loud hiss and be angry) the 2 litre bottle can be consealed in your backpack or be heald under your armpit, glued or taped to the gun, whatever!

Topic by mrbob1000 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Canon XM1 Lost component fix?

Hi there, So I've managed to break my CA910 Compact Power adapter, from what i understand it charges batteries and it also acts as a middle man between the power supply another lead that plugs into the camera to power it from the mains. The DC-905 DC Coupler is now effectively useless and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of a DIY fix that would mean I can start powering my camera from the mains again, below is a copy of the cameras manual (I know it says Canon GL1, ignore it its the same camera!); http://ebookbrowse.com/canon-xm1-manual-pdf-d223774206 If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them, Mikeyfish90210

Topic by Mikeyfish90210 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Canon XM1 Lost component fix?

Hi there, So I've managed to break my CA910 Compact Power adapter, from what i understand it charges batteries and it also acts as a middle man between the power supply another lead that plugs into the camera to power it from the mains. The DC-905 DC Coupler is now effectively useless and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas of a DIY fix that would mean I can start powering my camera from the mains again, below is a copy of the cameras manual (I know it says Canon GL1, ignore it its the same camera!); http://ebookbrowse.com/canon-xm1-manual-pdf-d223774206 If anyone has any ideas I would love to hear them, Mikeyfish90210

Question by Mikeyfish90210 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


GREAT ELECTRONIC AUDIO ITEM JUST CAME AVAILABLE

The Electronic Goldmine  has a rare to find component. "Tiny audio optocoupler is about the size of a pencil eraser and has 4 leads. These are used extensively in audio compressors, audio level controls, audio limiters, expanders/noise gates, guitar tremolo effects, guitar amplifiers and music effect boxes. Inside the black epoxy case is a 2 lead photocell (not a photodiode or photo-transistor) and a 2 lead LED. This is why the device finds extensive use in audio applications (photocell instead of photodiode). The LED requires about 10-16mA current and the resistance of the photocell varies from 150K up to megohms when the LED is off to under 400ohms when the LED is on." A

Topic by iceng 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Selling modified nerf guns on ebay

Hello people latley i have just put up modified nerf gun listing on ebay i can't seem to sell them but my friend can sell them way easier i asked him what he does diffrent but he said he does the same so if someone would help me sell them i would greatly appreciate it and another problem im having is i can't find the option to leave your listing up till cancelled or 30 day only 10. Im offering a reward to who's tip helps me sell my first 2 guns. The reward is a spray painted and modded nitefinder that has a coupler and can shoot up to 90ft

Topic by techman26 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


anyone want to help? very small led project...

I have carfuly painted a extra set of macbook keyboard keys that i have with phosphorescent clear paint. I want to mount a little (as small as i can possible make it) box onto of the screen, in the middle, with a uv led in it (doesnt need to be high powered) so that it will cause the keys to illuminate to there full potential. what i need help with is wireing the project. i dont wanna use a usb port so im going to use a male to female usb coupler (http://www.mpja.com/productview.asp?product=15477+PL)... i want to wire the led into that so it can plug in and power the led and i can still use the usb port... Does this sound possible? can anyone give me tips or help? any opinions would also be apreciated!

Topic by DELETED_divxrippimp 12 years ago  |  last reply 12 years ago


frame rust spots (2 small) on '99 Jaguar XJ8. Can it be SAFELY repaired?

I have a '99 Jag. Body like a new car. Purrs like a kitten. I let it set for 2 years because it needed coil packs replaced. Now it has a slightly surface rusted oil pan, tranny pan and brake line couplers. All the brake lines themselves are fine (they are coated). The under body is solid, not even surface rust. BUT there are 2 spots the size of 50 cent pieces of rust on the front frame. No holes but the rust extends through, one on each side front frame. Can this be SAFELY repaired? The rest of the frame is perfect and even around the 2 spots is solid without even any surface rust. I LOVE this car and HATE to part it out.

Question by starr1 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Leadscrew stops and starts?

I'm trying to make a cnc plotter similar to this: http://hackaday.com/2013/10/17/unorthodox-home-made-cnc-machine/ I have changed some things though: I'm using aluminum rod with washers super glued to the end, another washer, and two nuts instead of flange bearings (brushings) and two nuts, I'm using 3/8 rod, pololu steppers (#1209), and slightly different conduit clamps.  I'm using a wooden dowel with a half-inch hole, and aluminum and nylon spacers tapped and with a setscrew to act as a motor coupler.  The problem I'm having is that as the motors rotate, even continuously in one direction, the gantry stops and starts moving.  It moves 1/16th of an inch per rotation, as it should, but within each rotation it moves quickly, probably 5/6 of the way within the first 180 degrees, then moves just the remainder in the last 180.  The motors do not stall, miss steps, or change speed, but the gantry does.  There is almost no backlash, and little play.  Any ideas whats wrong?

Question by jduffy54 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Build a 3v Relay Module

Would love a 3v relay module that can be drive by PIRs that output 3v signal.  Thought I finally found what I needed on Ebay, but discovered this is a bogus product that actually needs 5v to be driven.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/5PCS-3V-3-3V-Relay-High-Level-Driver-Module-optocouple-Relay-Module-for-Arduino-/331413255692?hash=item4d29c4f60c:g:6koAAOSwfcVUDuEJ Buyer Beware. Advertised relay PCB as 3v relay. While the relay on the board may trigger independently with only 3 volts, the circuitry of the board demands a higher voltage to trigger the relay. Relay PCB has a EL817 opto-coupler for the input signal, it requires a 5V drive voltage on the Input in order to drive the onboard transistor which controls the relay coil current. With only a 3v drive, there is insufficient current to drive the opto and transistor. The module that the relay is mounted to is falsely advertised as 3.0V because the components on the board need more than 3 volts. In order to drive this relay with a 3v signal device, voltage level shifting needs to take place between 3v device and relay PCB.

Topic by DiyWaterDog 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


Led downlight transformer converting to a battery charger/power supply?

I know everyone will just say make the Ible and be done with it, but... I got a bunch of 11.5V LED downlight transformers, 35-105W. Upon inspection I realised their design is dirt simple but quite effective. Switchmode for the beginners so to say LOL The pros: Changing the output voltage is as simple as adding or removing windings from the output transformer. In my first test I was able to go up to 20V with no problems by adding a few turns and down to 5V by replacing the secondary with far less but thicker windings - impressive 12A until my windings started to produce smoke LOL Only imple parts, no microcontroller or other complicated stuff like opto couplers... The big con: These transformers are about 20 years old, so I would say first or second generation of LED transformers. That means I have no clue if something very similar or even identical can still be bought in shops or online. And what is the point of an Ible that noone can do because the main ingredient is nowhere to be found? I can take some pics of the circuit board later on for comparison but it would be great if some people with LED downlight transformers could provide some pics too. If it turns out other transformers are still in the same simple design I would like to use all provided for an Instructable. Credits for the pics will be left if you want or simply add your username to the pic as a watermark or such.

Question by Downunder35m 1 year ago  |  last reply 1 year ago


Looking to brainstorm about a Jacob's Ladder-style prop weapon - Grendel's Fork Answered

I have a friend who is a big fan of Matt Wagner's Grendel comics, and I thought it would be fun to make him a prop version of Grendel's signature "fork" weapon. I can handle the construction of the staff and the blades, but I'd like to get some thoughts about the special effect - a Jacob's Ladder-style electrical arc between the blades. Obviously, I'll need to modify the pictured design a bit so that the blades are electrically isolated from each other - no "tuning fork" configuration. My first thought was to just get a commercial "stun gun" and attach one contact to each blade, but I'm hoping the 'ibles community can help me come up with a better idea. Desired Specs: Hollow, black anodized metal staff. 6' length, 7/8" ID. Separates in the middle via a screw-threaded coupler. Has a threaded socket in one end and a black plastic plug in the other end. (It's an extra upright from a utility shelf unit) Blades - not purchased yet, most likely 440 stainless tanto blades (dulled)  7" to 10" plus a 3" - 4" tang. Unit must be self-contained - no power cord visible i.e. to an external battery pack or wall wart. A removable recharging cable would be OK. Arcing must be triggerable via a switch on the staff. I don't need to actually shock anyone, I just want a flashy visual effect. Simulated arcing would be perfectly fine as long as it looks good. Needs to be sturdy and fairly impact-resistant. It won't really be used as a weapon, but it will undoubtedly get played with a lot. Anybody have any suggestions?

Question by RavingMadStudios 9 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Having a peculiar issue with the max6675 and grounds?

So first off, this is an application for use in a car. I have ensured that all of my grounds are good, and the power is clean, so I know these are not the issue, at least not on the car side of things. I am trying to get an electric fan controlled by an atmega328 (through a relay), which I have successfully achieved  on bench tests using an alternative heat source. It works reliably until I apply the circuit in the car. When I install it in the car with my thermocouple on the radiator pipe for the temperature reference I get all sorts of temperatures that are not the correct one. Its either very high, or very low. I have tried multiple thermocouples (of similar style) with no changes. If my thermocouple is not making contact with any grounded portion of the car (for example, the engine) it reads fine, so I know that my issue lies somewhere in there. An easy solution would be to simply mount the sensor in a coupler in the radiator hose (thus isolating it as best as I can) but I would rather fix the issue than apply a bandaid. I've tried searching for other people having a similar issue but haven't had any luck. One peculiar thing to note is that if I have the ground disconnected, and the thermocouple touching a ground, the system receives power, so I am assuming that the junction makes contact with the outer case of the thermocouple. My circuit is nothing too elaborate (I can upload a schematic if need be); I have a DC/DC adjustable converter to get 5v for the micro and 6675 power, which does not have an isolated ground, an atmega328, an OLED display, some tact buttons, and a max6675 development board. There are other passives as well but those should be minor. Does anyone have any idea what may be going on with this? I'm stumped. I should be able to provide any info you may need.  PS: this is the development board and thermocouple that I am using: http://m.ebay.ca/itm/New-MAX6675-Module-K-Type-Thermocouple-Thermocouple-Sensor-For-Arduino-Hot-/151324177617?nav=SEARCH 

Question by zack247 3 years ago  |  last reply 3 years ago


How can I wire a recorder cut-in box?

So, a little background: I'm a reporter, and I do a lot of telephone interviewing. There's currently not an app that works reliably for my phone to record both sides of a call, and given that I already have a very nice standalone voice recorder (sony ICD820) that has line in/line out functionality, I'd like to have a way to run the signal from my phone into the recorder, record it, and then pass it on to a headset with a mic on it. The problem is that the recorder only has 3.5 mm stereo in/out (TRS), with no separate mic channel, so if I connect the (TRRS - mic/l/r/ground) cable from my phone directly into the recorder, then connect my headset to the 'line out' port, it ends up distorting badly, and not recording the mic channel. As a temporary solution I A) use two "Y" cables (one connected to the phone, and one to my headset) to split the mic from the audio channels, then B) feed the audio channels into and back out of the line in/out ports on the recorder, and then C) use a coupler to mate the two mic channels. This puts the recorder in-line on the audio channel(s) only, and routes the mic channel directly from my phone to my headset (picture attached). This works great, but it's bulky and delicate, and obviously only records the incoming side of the conversation.  THE QUESTION: How can I wire a box that will give me the ability to "cut in" a recorder on a TRRS source, which is delivering (potentially) stereo audio channels along with a mic channel - ie, up to three channels - so that the recorder is recording all three channells? (note: it does not matter if some/all of the channels are merged). WOULD IT WORK TO wire a box that A) summed the Left and Right channels from the phone using resistors on each channel (see the picture in the link), and B) fed the summed audio and the mic lines into the Left and Right pins of a TRS plug, respectively, to give the recorder a stereo source? I have put together a crude diagram of what I think this could look like (note that the diagram includes a DPDT switch to 'cut in' the recorder, but I would likely omit this in the final design for simplicity). Additional question: I have seen wildly varying info on what size resistors to use on the summing circuit, and also conflicting information as to whether I need a third on the ground (???). The simplest I have seen is just using a 1K resistor on each of the incoming channels. Given that these are just standard headphone/passive mic voltages, what size resistors would I need, and where in the circuit? Link to the simplest 'summing box' diagram I hve found for this type of application (top image): http://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/60443-stereo-to-mono-summing-circuit

Question by ThomasJ126 2 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Help with my project.

Little help with my project.  I think ya'll could help me with my project. I have no experience in electrical engineering other than 1 high school electronics project. That I messed up, but still have that project & it works due to teacher tinkering with it. So now I'm attempting to tinker with electronics. I've taken a Paper Jamz amplifier that was powered by 4 aaa batteries and modified it to be powered by a 6v 300ma ac/dc wall wort w/o destroying either. Whoa who!! Now time to try something a bit harder. This project is to make a attractive desktop Solar USB charger, dual stereo amplifier, mp3 player system (Pandora's Box). Seeing Joshua Zimmerman of BrownDogGadgets.com's heavy duty solar charger in a tin & USB charging circuit I believe that my project is possible. I will probably be purchasing both of them and hack together a Dual USB solar charger with 2 AA batteries.  Looking over this post could someone draw a schematic in "English" with missing parts added? So I've started to tinker. Here is a list of all the things I have. Got pictures of some of them but not sure if I have to go pro to post. (* Not married to some of these parts) 2 Paper Jamz amplifiers 8ohm 1w stereo speakers (each powered by 4 aaa batteries) 1 5v 200mA solar panel * 1 Paper Jamz battery pack * (4 aaa batteries) Not sure what batteries to use. Can power both amps w/ 1 pack. Coby 1gb USB mp3 player (playback functions powered by 1 aaa battery) 1 Micro USB MALE - USB A MALE cable cut and stripped. Breadboard, hookups for wiring. To avoid soldering. Audio hookups: 4 3.5mm M - M, 2 3.5mm F - F coupler, Stereo Y adapter 3.5mm M - 2 F  Y adapter Cigar Box enclosure. Internal dimensions (open no lid space): 2.25"h x 7.5625"w x 6.1875"d. external closed: 2.6875"h x 8.375"w x 7.0625"d So I've powered both of the amplifiers with one set of AAA batteries. I'm thinking that they can be powered by the 2 AA batteries from the solar charger. Let me know if I'm right here.   I would like to attach my USB micro male whip to a circuit, through box to charge my BlackBerry PlayBook. I think it needs 5v 1.8a for charging. Don't know if it also needs fake data voltage for charging. I've tested my phone with the USB micro whip, AAA power pack & it charges. For ease of construction I'll be using the breadboard & hot glue circuit parts together. Seeing that the mp3 player only needs power from the equivalent of a aaa battery, what is the best way to reduce the amperage from the two AA batteries so not to burn out the Mp3 player? Going to mount it against side of box with USB MALE adapter going through back wall. Use dowl rod pieces for buttons on side, battery hookups faceted inside. All components sending/receiving audio via 3.5mm audio patch cables.  Paper Jamz amps wired in parallel through breadboard to power pack. [power pack, breadboard (not mounted)], audio ports, speakers. Speakers mounted to sound board suspended from lid. Would like to mount solar panel on outside of box lid. Nothing mounted is set in stone but the audio ports & speakers are fixed in place.  Thanks in advance hope ya'll can help here. & if your going to Maker Fair Detroit this weekend have fun. Thanks again,  Okaybye! Josh Kalbow Remember to Zombie proof your projects. 

Topic by Zombie_Tinker 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago


Can anyone help me out with my project?

Little help with my project.  I think ya'll could help me with my project. I have no experience in electrical engineering other than a 4th grade science fair project on the difference between parallel and series circuits. And 1 high school electronics project that I messed up, but still have that project & it works due to teacher tinkering with it. So now I'm attempting to tinker with electronics. I've taken a Paper Jamz amplifier that was powered by 4 aaa batteries and modified it to be powered by a 6v 300ma ac/dc wall wort w/o destroying either. Whoa who!! Now time to try something a bit harder. This project is to make a attractive desktop Solar USB charger, dual stereo amplifier, mp3 player system (Pandora's Box). Seeing Joshua Zimmerman of BrownDogGadgets.com's heavy duty solar charger in a tin & USB charging circuit I believe that my project is possible. I will probably be purchasing both of them and hack together a Dual USB solar charger with 2 AA batteries.  Looking over this post could someone draw a schematic in "English" with missing parts added? So I've started to tinker. Here is a list of all the things I have. Got pictures of some of them but not sure if I have to go pro to post. (* Not married to some of these parts) 2 Paper Jamz amplifiers 8ohm 1w stereo speakers (each powered by 4 aaa batteries) 1 5v 200mA solar panel * 1 Paper Jamz battery pack * (4 aaa batteries) Not sure what batteries to use. Can power both amps w/ 1 pack. Coby 1gb USB mp3 player (playback functions powered by 1 aaa battery) 1 Micro USB MALE - USB A MALE cable cut and stripped. Breadboard, hookups for wiring. To avoid soldering. Audio hookups: 4 3.5mm M - M, 2 3.5mm F - F coupler, Stereo Y adapter 3.5mm M - 2 F  Y adapter Cigar Box enclosure. Internal dimensions (open no lid space): 2.25"h x 7.5625"w x 6.1875"d. external closed: 2.6875"h x 8.375"w x 7.0625"d So I've powered both of the amplifiers with one set of AAA batteries. I'm thinking that they can be powered by the 2 AA batteries from the solar charger. Let me know if I'm right here.   I would like to attach my USB micro male whip to a circuit, through box to charge my BlackBerry PlayBook. I think it needs 5v 1.8a for charging. Don't know if it also needs fake data voltage for charging. I've tested my phone with the USB micro whip, AAA power pack & it charges. For ease of construction I'll be using the breadboard & hot glue circuit parts together. Seeing that the mp3 player only needs power from the equivalent of a aaa battery, what is the best way to reduce the amperage from the two AA batteries so not to burn out the Mp3 player? Going to mount it against side of box with USB MALE adapter going through back wall. Use dowl rod pieces for buttons on side, battery hookups faceted inside. All components sending/receiving audio via 3.5mm audio patch cables.  Paper Jamz amps wired in parallel through breadboard to power pack. [power pack, breadboard (not mounted)], audio ports, speakers. Speakers mounted to sound board suspended from lid. Would like to mount solar panel on outside of box lid. Nothing mounted is set in stone but the audio ports & speakers are fixed in place.  Thanks in advance hope ya'll can help here. & if your going to Maker Fair Detroit this weekend have fun. Thanks again,  Okaybye! Josh Kalbow Remember to Zombie proof your projects. 

Question by Zombie_Tinker 5 years ago  |  last reply 5 years ago