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I am a major insomniac AND IT SUCKS. Im completly not me any more in the day. i am ruining my life infact i am writeing this at 4:57 in the morning (i havent slept yet) i get maybe 2-3 hours a over a 24 hour period. i really dont want to use drugs such as melatonin. any ideas PLEASE HELP.

Hey guys, I have a really bad sore throat, and it's really bothering me. Do you know of any do-able cures that actually work? I have tried having soup and cough drops but it's getting worse. Any cures would be great!

I just had the hiccups ten minutes ago and used this cure, it works for once!(unlike most cures ;-) ) Take a deep breath into your lower lungs and hold it there, not in your mouth. Then, still holding your breath, clench all your stomach muscles and hold for a few seconds. Finlly, let out your breath, and your hiccups are gone! Do you have good cures?

Will update this page later.

Can anyone tell me the density of cured Sugru?  A specific number would be best (in grams per milliliter preferably), but if I can't get that, does it float in water?  (If you don't know what Sugru is, see the Instructables store.) Thanks!

If the container is completely full of concrete, or possibly has a small air space?

I was mountain biking and i had my thumbs under the gear shift so now i have blisters on the top of my thumbs -.-

If Yes, then by how much of its original volume? I plan to press on the legs of an LED into a dough of sugru and then remove the LED and leave it to cure. Would the holes (created by the legs of the LED) shrink, is what I wanted to know..

An Aussie has discovered a sonic non invasive cure for Alzheimer's Disease. It is a physical solution that sonic waves dislodge brain plaque and cause T-cell to remove the material in 85% of subject lab animals !! Another Aussie who distinguished himself by proving stomach ulcers can be cured with a special course of antibiotic.  When no one would believe him, he infected himself with a incurable ulcer case and then later cured himself to prove the assertion. A good people, if you know some.

So, after making this awesome isntructable (it's curing now!), I got ideas for other concrete projects. My favorite so far is making a concrete lamp. I want to make a mold of a lamp (light bulb in it) and then cast it in concrete. I'd then put a real lampshade on it and call it art. My problem is...I have no mold making experience. Do you guys have any tips, know where to get silicone, etc?Thanks!

I'm using used railroad ties  for a landscaping border. No pressure/tension involved. The ties I got are rotted inside and in one side and have good appearance on their other three sides. I was considering using portland cement to fill in the voids, but would like to minimize how much water used to cure the cement in order to prevent further rotting of the tie itself. Would the cement cure if I don't use any water?

I have a really strong procrastination habit. I put off doing projects such as posting whatever knex gun I made. It is really messing up my life, and I need some way to help with it. anyone?

My dad has a bamboo thicket that's overtaking his yard and he is begging me to come take some. The only problem is, I'm unsure how to properly dry it out without it cracking/checking. Any help would be awesome.

Only a few years ago your only option to repair certain plastics, glass or even a broken crystal was epoxy based resin or the good old superglue.You might have already tried one of the 5-seconds-repair pens or tried your own UV curing nail polish art at home.For the later you might be lucky as the resins used here are optimised for the purpose and lights you get with them.Sadly even the best nail polish is no substitude for a glue as the material properties need to be different.One of the most common complaints when it comes to using some UV glue, like Kafuter or similar is that it never comes with instructions.Sould be straight forward but it is not free of problems.For example almost all commercail UV curing glues that you can buy require quite stirct procedures and for the light the right wavelenth(s).Resins and coatings can be even more painful here as they might also require you to stick to the correct temperature.Let's start with one thing you might have encountered already...The glue is definately cured and rock hard but the surface tacky and smeary.Quite annoying if you want to fix a piece of jewellery and can't prevent it from collecting dirt and dust...The next thing you might have encountered is that despite having transparent materials it seems to be impossible to cure the clue.Both problems come down to wavelenght and exposure.UV curing glue is prevented from curing in the presence of oxygen - a factor utilised for example in resin based 3D printers.Uncovered glue is exposed to the oxygen in the air and won't cure easy.The glue or resin below this layer however with fully cure with ease in the absence of oxygen.For the second problem consider that not all materials that you can see through will let UVC light pass through ;)Bonding strenght is another complaint I hear a lot...Be aware that certain things just are no good for UV curing glues or resins.Take the molds you get for that purpose: on the material the glue won't bond!Teflon is another prime candidate here.But in a lot of cases it comes down to surface preparation.Don't be afriad to sand the surface!Not only will the surface area increase but the scratch marks will be invisible once filled anyways.Use sandpaper on your fingernails, then go over with clear nail polish -mirror finish ;)With curing often a problem consider to fully cover the glue.A bit of clear sticky tape, food wrapping foil....If that is not an option then eliminate the oxygen.You can use a container filled with inert (for the glue) gas like CO2 or just place a burning candle in it until it goes out....Either way the amount of oxygen should then be low enough to cure the surface of your glue.Not always is any of the above an option.Then you can still try more power and a lover wavelength.Mercury based lamps for example provide a very broad and powerful light that in most cases will cure within seconds.For a proper surface cure you need a wavelength of 265nm or lower.LED's offering this exist but at prices well out of range for the hobby user.A mercury lamp under high pressure is nothing for short term use and the limited lifespan does not always justify the costs of buying them.Like with most things in life certain inventions can have a dual purpose.Quality germicidal lamp systems for examples often state to go as low or even lower than 265nm.And they come at a fraction of the cost you have with a broadband mercury lamp.Even cheaper is the fre weather forecast.If the sun is siad to be strong enough so you need protection than even the worst glue will fully cure in seconds outside in the sun - tackfree!Don't be fooled and protect yourself!!These tiny LED lamps for your glue stick, the curing thingies for your nailpolish and everything else using UV light comes with warnings.For very good reasons!It might be hidden in the fineprint but you can not really see UV light.The blueish-purple glow you see is on the high end of what comes out and by that in the visible range of your eye.Just because a LED only gives a faint glow you see does not mean the UV light wouldn blind you if you could see it!Even worse for fluoroscent lamps or open cruning systems like those for your nailpolish.Reflected UV light is still UV light and you can still NOT see it!Stories of people getting sunburnt from germicidal lamps in a butcher shop or other people going blind from checking money as their living have a true base...In most cases lamps used well past their lifespan or simply the wrong type of lamp but still: the damage came from UVC light...If you just love creating your own artwork or jewellery with UV curing resins and glues than protect yourself.Proper sunglasses with a stated UV protection for example or just black nitrile gloves for your hands...

Hello, I am currently working on a project where a plastic rim needs to be filled in. The area where the inner tube would normally go needs t be completely filled in and drilled into once it is cured.  https://engineering.purdue.edu/ece477/Archive/2008/Spring/S08-Grp12/pics/Wheel01.jpg This is a picture of a rim similar to the one we are using. The material would be strong and ideally not too expensive.  if anyone has any ideas, I would very much like to hear them.  Thank you!

When I'm using the laptop, there's an issue with the touchpad for the mouse, it quite often goes absolutely mental at my touch, I've tried cleaning it, washing my hands... I can't find any correlation with the problem, it'll work fine for hours and then it'll suddenly decide I can't do anything sensibly... It's an HP easynote TJ68, however my brother's Hp, not the same model but very similar has zero issues... So not sure what the score is at all... 

Just curious :) (no personal reason I promise lol)

I remember it, sort of.  I loved it!  How was it made?

Yesterday got a hare from roadkill. (It is stewing right now). I want to try to do an attempt at taxidermy. I got the pelt off intact, except the lower part of the legs, and I still have to do the head. I was thinking of just letting the legs dry: Quite tedious to take the skin off, and hardly any meat on it. Can I do this, and can I just let the ears dry?

     I saw an instructable on using sugru to make "bumpers" on the corners of an iPhone to protect it from shock and the like.  This looks like a good idea, but I don't really want to have a bunch of silicone on my phone all the time--just when it has a higher risk of taking a bad drop (hiking, for instance).  The instructable says that the sugru can be removed, but it does not say whether or not the molded corners can be removed and put back on as needed.  Does anybody know if this is possible?  Thanks!

Hi gang, I know CA glue (Krazy glue, Cyanoacrylate) is solvent based, and inhaling the solvent is bad for you, but how safe is it after the glue cures? As I understand it, after curing the glue is basically a plastic.  Can I use it in a baby's crib (Assuming it's allowed to cure)? Thanks!

Hi, Can anyone answer a few questions for me or direct me to a site for Nichrome information?   My background:  I'm more into mechanical tinkering:  drill press, saw, lathe.  I have minimal skills in Arduino.   I have very little understanding in Ohm, Resistance, etc....many things electrical.  I can read an electrical schematic and build it; but, I have no clue how to design it. My purpose for this:  heating panel for vacuum form machine as well as a curing plate on top of wet paint and coating (two different machines). I'm trying to make this:  http://www.infraredheaters.com/solar-f.htm   <--- something like this with it's blown air as a convection-like dryer over water base coating. My requirement is:   1,  120v prefer, highly desire.  220v isn't an option at the moment until I move to a new place. 2,  +250-350f temp range, I'll be using an Arduino to set this up 3,  14" x 18" panel 4,   as efficient as possible, I want it as close to 1000watt as practically possible. My questions are:  size of nichrome?  length?  How tightly should I pack the wires.  Should I use a dimmer switch to control the heat?  would that be a good idea?  Where can I find information to get 120v AC into nichrome to give me 330f without killing myself or burning down the house? Thanks!

I'm making resin icicles, but I feel it may be more realistic to dip the completed smooth shapes into resin to bulk them out and give them some water-like imperfections on the shape. Will this work or will uncured resin affect the cured resin?

Scabies is a diease that causes her to scratch and lick herself all the time. It has created a bald patch around her neck where the fur has fallen out, and now the skin is red and raw looking, with scabby looking patches.

Hello there! I am planing to make a duplicate of  CND led nail lamp (image 1) . I have an older normal UV lamp (image 2). I have the led Bulbs and the driver for them anid bought relay timer from ebay and the 12v transformer. But the hard part is to make the exact programs. The CND lamp has 4 buttons witch are different programs. 1st - 10 seconds flashing. 2nd - 60 seconds from witch only the first 10 seconds is flashing. 3rd - 60 seconds on. 4th - same like 2nd program. How can i make the programs i have bought and buttons witch i will install?

This morning I put up this how to on how to cure the hiccups and there is already this one and this one. So what should I do?ThanksJoe Rowley

Hi people! I have spilled resin (for crafting) over a pair of jeans and now it makes a hard spot where the resin has cured. I think I've ruined the trousers (obviously...) but I've seen someone on another thread saying that to remove epoxy you just have to heat it. But does it work on cured epoxy resin? That has been in the washing machine more than once? Thanks for your answers :)

I need an adhesive or fill material with some special properties. It should be a moderately viscous liquid that sets up into something very flexible, jellylike would be ideal. It should be applicable in very small quantities. It should flow before curing and be self leveling unlike silicone adhesive. Tensile strength is relatively unimportant. It should not adhere to two part tin based casting silicone. An analogy that comes to mind is E6000 adhesive but it's viscosity is a bit too low and it sets up way too hard. UV cured resin like Loon UV Knot Sense (great stuff that I learned about here) comes close and has the right viscosity also but also cures too hard. If you know of anything, I've got a project on hold until I find something and would greatly appreciate advice.

I am a stained glass artisan.  I am working on a project where I need to add some detail to a few of the pieces on the panel I am constructing.  The detail I want to add to 5 of the pieces cannot be added using traditional stained glass techniques.  Specifically, I need to draw a few short black lines on the 5 pieces.  I want the lines to be a permanent part of the stained glass panel.  Also, I cannot bake the pieces to cure the paint; hence, the paint must be air dried cured.   What type of paint should I use?  Are there special techniques in applying the paint? How long, after application of the paint, does it take to completely cure the paint? I really appreciate your help.

For a forge i am making i used permilite (or w/e it is called used in gardening) and furnace cement for the refractory...how long will it take to cure?

Does anyone know of something that is cheapish and suitable for 3D printing by being extruded from a thin tube, and cures immediately on contact with a dried bit of itself, or exposure to another chemical or something?  It must be practical to put though a tube at low pressure, and again, cure almost instantly once it comes out of the tube.  Traditional 3D extruders will NOT work, as the device needs to be able to distribute to hundreds of tiny tubes at once (I cant cut a plastic filament into 300 pieces lengthwise, if you can, good job!), plus that I would have only about 1/4"-1/8" x 1/4"-1/8" x 6" to fit the device into. 

Has anyone else heard that  when a laser is passed through a citrine crystal onto bodily scars, it will remove scar tissue?  Also, any news on research using a protein found in hepatitis ( c, d, or g,?) to cure aids??  I heard both of these  on the radio. Thanks. kathleen

Hello! I have a question for people who use oogoo, or generally DIY silicone molding putty made from 100% silicone caulk. I want to cast oogoo molds of lego bionicle masks with polymer clay, but my issue is I need to keep the clay inside the mold in order to prevent any kind of warping, as most of it is spread a little thin (1-2mm thickness) and I don't want to end up warping it even in the slightest. Is oogoo or cured 100% silicone caulk oven-safe as long as it's within the specified temperature range? (I already know most DIY silicone putties aren't food-grade.) The silicone caulk I'm using is GE all purpose silicone I, mixed with corn starch, acrylic paint, and baby oil. The back of the tube says that it should not be used on surfaces that will exceed 400F/205C. The polymer clay I plan on using is cured at 110C, so I don't think it'll be a problem, but I'm worried exposing the silicone caulk mold to high temperatures will cause it to release some harmful chemical compounds. I looked up an MSDS sheet for GE silicone, and they had a generalized one stating exceeding the maximum temperature will cause the release of formaldehyde. Since I plan on baking these in our kitchen oven, I wouldn't want harmful chemicals contaminating a space where we cook our food. Also, if baking isn't an option, since the polymer clay is spread thin, and cures close to 100C, would curing it in boiling water be an option? (That way any water soluble chemicals would remain contained while the clay hardens.) All help is appreciated!

For anyone that has used Sugru in the past, how much grip does it have once completely cured and dry? I was wondering if I could use it on the outside of a 3D printed wheel to get good grip like a rubber tire. If not any suggestions for other materials I could use? Thanks!

In my quest for an epoxy/resin that won't yellow when baked for half an hour at 230F, West System 105 resin with 207 clear hardener seems to be the one everybody thinks *might* work.  When I contacted the company, I was told that... "The cured 105/207 should remain clear to 200F. Above 200F to 300F you may see some discoloration. 300 - 400F you will see some discoloration." So I'm in the maybe range.  But seeing as it will cost me around $100 to try it (they don't offer any type of sample size), I'm a bit nervous to buy.  Does anybody here use this epoxy who'd be willing to bake a cured blop in the oven and let me know if it yellows?  I'd really really appreciate it.

I am currently trying to research this topic as I am looking into building a stereolithograph 3D printer. I have been searching for some time now with not a whole lot of answers. This is not my area of expertise so I could use some input. I have found lasers in the range of 256nm wavelength but it is going to cost me an arm and a leg. Even at the price range the UV lasers are only outputting at most 1W of power. I have read that UV curing resin is most reactive in the range of 265nm and that is why I have been searching for something in that ballpark. I have found some companies that manufacture LED in that wavelength but then the problem is going to be trying to focus the light down to a fine enough point. I am trying to design a 3D printer that is in the high resolution range. So, my true question is. Does UV curing resin react best with the 265nm vs the 400nm range as I could just a blu-ray laser. If it is better at the 265nm range, could I possibly be able to focus enough light from a couple of 3W leds down to a small enough point to cure the resin where I want it to be. The other idea is taking a UV laser in the 400nm range and focusing the beam down to get me fine but quick set up time in the resin. Or possibly multiple Lasers

I have followed the evolution of the 3D printer and I can see its potential as a real tool for home use. Ceramic krafts have been a fairly easy home size cottage kraft for centuries. Now If you had a small kiln and you were able to model Items from house wares to mechanical parts to ceramic molds (ie Cookie or decrotive bread pans or a Ceramic motor block to an Air Motor). I thought if you Cure/ dry it (ceramic paste) as it was extruded on to the model with focused lasers (ready for deburing and then a bisque firing) as in using lasers for curing/ hardening of a polymer mediums. The variety of Ceramic Mediums/ materials that could be used to fuel a boon to the unemployed as a way to make money. Maybe printing out one use molds, to form cores to Graphite products that could be washed out after and have the mold material reused. If there was away for me to follow through with the possibilities. Extruding those oven cured clays, that could stretch its usefullness. I am trying to figure out a way to get out from under the pile and recycle as much as possible and use as many American made parts and electronics as I can. Graphite fiber empreganted ceramic material, is there such a product out there that could be utilized in 3D printed parts? Is there a Market for Products made of these types of materials? So many questions, so many possibilities.

RECENT ancient answers topics that are 6 years and older. See me at  Jigidi on some leader boards. Keep your mind active until the Aussies perfect that cure for Alzheimer's....

Hello, Does anyone know of a clear casting resin that when cured is also machinable?  I have an idea for a project that involves encasing objects in resin and then using power tools, milling machines, lathes, etc. to partially expose the object by cutting though it and the casting.  Any thoughts on what resin to use and where it can be purchased? Thanks!

So I recently started looking into some of the 3d printing stuff as a way to make a number of laboratory items that are not easily had other ways.  While 3D printing seems really promising, i'm noticing there's not alot of work being done on non-plastics. Are there resources out there for 3D printer enthusiasts who want to use metal or ceramics in there creation?  Off the top of my head, i can think of a few ways that they could be encorporated into an existing 3d printer (metal and ceramic powders in a wax binder that can zapped with a laser to fuze it into place), but I'm only just barely getting into this and i'm really not looking to reinvent the wheel simply because i didn't know that it's already been done.  If plastic went entirely by the wayside, pieces that could be cured in a conventional oven could be printed, but fully cured, ready to go products are sorta the point of a 3d printer. 

Hi people!  Does yoga really do what it claims to?  Here in my place, my parents and elders claim that yoga can prevent diseases(like cancer, or blood pressure variations, diabetes etc), and even help in curing of above mentioned diseases. Is it really true? If yes, what is the mechanism behind it? If no, then what does it really do?

I have glued crystals to my sandals 4 times now and the crystals fall off when the glue cures. I have used gem -tac,amazing goop,527, and fabri-tac. I bought e6000 tonight hoping for a miracle. Any advice would be appreciated.

I am making a DIY digital interface (using Arduino and MaxMSP), the touch-pads will have embedded super-bright LEDs and I'm looking for a compound similar to translucent silicone sealant gel. I'm concerned that, once dried/cured, the silicone will still retain some chemicals harmful to the skin (fingertips)

We got a package in the mail today from Adrian Monk. As you can see, it's a plaster hand just like the one on the site. Super cool. We heartily endorse the sending of fun stuff to us in the mail. Always. The hand and the base didn't stay together, but we put some epoxy on it and it's curing right now. Should be just fine when it's done.

How to remove or clean up fiberglass/polyester resin that accidentally spilled on a rug, photos and computer (about half of 32 oz)? I am new to using the resin and I accidentally spilled it while walking near one of my desktop computers, some photos and a rug. The resin that I mixed will never cure because I didn't add enough hardener.

I'm building a wooden clamp, and I've seen people use Polyurethane Construction Adhesive, and I don't know exactly what it is. Of course it's an adhesive, but I can't seem to find the properties that define it... I also know that it's really expensive, and has a very short shelf life, so I want to maximize my use out of it, if I buy it. Is it sticky, before and when cured? When cured, is it brittle like super glue? Hard like epoxy? Fairly soft like Hot-Glue, or very soft like silicone adhesive? Does it adhere better than most epoxies to wood metal? Do you think it could glue a threaded to rod to a wooden handle strong enough on a homemade clamp? Is it the expanding glue? Do most types stink like crazy? (worse than most Epoxies) Do you think it is worth the price? Is it that much better than Epoxy? Thanks!

I was wondering if anyone knew of any HD webcams that could be used as a standalone camera without the computer, or ones that could be modified for such a purpose. I was going to use a standard Sony digital camera, but the key issue there is that glass elements are absorbent in the short IR range, and so kill most of the effect. One element is not that bad, but when you have the 8-10 of varying thickness in the camera's zoom lens assembly, you lose a lot of IR light.  I need the IR effect for demonstration - for example, under IR light, veins and vessels in your hand become a lot more visible, as well as the ability to perceive "heat" becomes a lot more capable. If anyone could either help point out a HD webcam that would work or help me make a standard "cure-all" lens it would be extremely helpful. By cure-all I mean the lenses you find on cameras such as disposable 35mms, ones that either don't have any glass in them or only possess one element and have a focus range of roughly a foot and a half to infinity.