What kind of blade should you use if cutting glass bottles on a wet tile saw ?
Question by cricket92283 | last reply
Hello (excuse my English really bad I'm Belgian and French) I would like to cut aluminum sheet of + - 5 mm thick and also cut paper without "burning the edges" I would like to know what kind of "laser head" the cheapest possible exists and what would be even better, whether this kind of "laser head" is recovering ... I was thinking of a DVD laser burner but, even though I I'm as good at DIY as an elephant is good at skydiving, I guess a DVD burner will not cut aluminum ... A big thank-you
Topic by Hiram | last reply
Grooming maltese to make short hair
Question | last reply
So, I had an idea some time back, to inset a rectangle cutting of a lens off a pair of glasses, into an eye cup for your camera. Costco sell their lenses to minors for 20 dollars, if I could get them to sell me just lenses, would a glass cutter like they have at home depot (i think) be able to cut it down to a small rectangle? If not, how could I cut it?
Topic by Weissensteinburg | last reply
Yes, you can be on the cutting edge, come see my new instructable while it's still caught in the filters. Sure, we all know the Instructables staff is busy at SXSW (*), so while they're busy hobnobbing with the likes of Drew Curtis and Perez Hilton, check out my latest. * Don't actually know that.
Topic by Tool Using Animal | last reply
I have yet to use a laser to create my work. I wish I could and if I did, this is what I would create: switch plate art, I call it"splart" right now I use diamonds and carbide on old Ohio barn slate. This is created with disposible hand drawn templates. A fine wet surface grind to finish and a coat of waterbase poly. A very basic "instuctable," This is my entry. I am: http://www.splart.com
Topic by splart | last reply
Recently got a diamond wheel for angle grinder. tho it is marketed to cut tile, marble, etc, i tried it on steel. cuts quick enough, but leaves huge burrs. burrs 4x thicker than the workpiece. seems the blade just melts and squishes the steel out of the way. it works, kinda, leaving a hazardous ragged edge on the work... i see why they dont market those blades for steel. im reminded of friction cutting blades.
Topic by Toga_Dan | last reply
So here's my situation... I've lost the key to my U-lock - I'm fairly certain it fell out of my pocket while I was sitting - somewhere :/... Any recommendations on how to cut it? After chewing up 1 hacksaw blade to it's dull tomb, I'm fairly certain it's made from hardened steel. Bugger. From past expirience, bolt cutters don't play nice with hardened steel :p Recommendations? oh, and it's a decent lock - picking isn't an option :/
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
I am trying to cut some pieces of acrylic sheeting about 3/16th inches thick. I was wondering if the instructables on the laser cutter built from 2 old scanners would work for cutting the acrylic sheets? Or if not that, what might work for making acrylic parts that are flush enough to chemical bond making a water tight connection? Thank you, Eron.
Topic by eronjonson | last reply
We are offering an affordable solution for high precision cutting. Based in London (UK). Maximum sheet size for cutting: 600x450mm, max thickness 6mm. Can cut all sort of plastics, wooden materials, MDF, etc... Can not cut Metals. Check our ebay page for more info, and feedbacks: Precisioncutting.
Topic by precisioncutting | last reply
This is a really basic question—I have managed to get to 66 years old and still be a complete handyman novice, I have tried but my best efforts are lamentable. I think it is because I have never had anyone to show me handy things and have never asked anyone so turning over a new leaf I am determined to start making a few things instead of spending a fortune buying them and paying people to do things for me. My first project is to make a simple slide carrier and I have bodged one up in cardboard but it really needs to be in something stronger so it is rigid, metal would be ideal but very stiff board would also do if I can not cut the metal. I do have a thin sheet of aluminium, (from the casing of an old laptop) that I would like to use buy am frightened of messing up & worse injuting myself! I now realize that I have no idea how to cut a square hole in a piece of metal or, for that matter, what tools I need to cut aluminium in the first place! My overiding consideration is to be safe so I don't want to try, (what to me is a daunting task but probably to you guys the simplest of things) not knowing what I am doing. So can someone please help me out and tell me what tools I need and how to go about cutting a square hole in a piece of metal? Rest assured I will not do it if I do not think I can safely. Thanks.
Question by Allsop | last reply
Over the summer I acquired a very large whiteboard (4' x 8') from a summer camp that was trying to get rid of them. I wanted to put a grid onto it and use it for Role Playing Games-- the only problem being that it is HUGE! It doesn't fit anywhere in the house other than the garage, so it's been collecting dust in there since the summer. Rather than have it end up in a Goodwill somewhere, I would like to put it to use. My plan is to cut it into a few smaller pieces because it would be able to fit into my house and be more proportional to RPG size. So the question is: How might I cut this whiteboard without chipping or cracking it?
Question by General Eggs | last reply
I'm looking for help getting some new smaller drafting tools cut. The cut area is no bigger then 9"x6", I was hoping to get the part cut out of .04" clear Lexan, I can supply if needed. I'd also like to have the parts etched as well if that is possible as well. I have the rough drawing done in AutoCAD so far.
Topic by BogDog | last reply
I made two cutting boards and apparently I did a bad job cutting it or the wood was too roughly cut or something, I don't know, but now they both have gaps in them. I glued one up, and the other one I didn't but could tell it was going to be the same. Is there any way to fix my goof, or if there is not, what is another project that I could use the wood for as to not completely waste it? Thanks!
Question by schoonovermr | last reply
I have being repairing all forms of cutting & welding machines for some years. In my experience for example Plasma cutters work on a principle of momentous arc. This is formed by a High frequency arc it only gives you 30 milliseconds to start your current flow. Air is required to force this arc out of the plasma cutting head. Ok got your attention now getting back to a laser cutter it also uses air to force out cutting light to cut or engrave. so looking for more under standing to work on a problem.
Topic by Keith MichaelD | last reply
Woah!! I just found a laser cutting workshop near my home! Give me some links of projects which "You Like The Most"! Is there any portal for laser cutting ideas, projects and ready plans and tutorials? *** UPDATE: I have made some 3D models in 'Autodesk 123D'. But I how can I convert the surfaces to 2D, so that I can use them in laser cutter. I am unable to figure it out. Please Help! *** UPDATE: 123D has now a very cool feature for all Laser-Philic folks! Now we can add 2D sheets in 123D for laser cutting. btw, I am now well aquainted with Google Sketchup and using it for all of my laser cutting work. To learn how to use Google Sketchup for laser cutting, see this cool Instructable from user 'flightsofideas': https://www.instructables.com/id/SketchUp-Inkscape-and-Ponoko-Laser-Cutting/
Question by sarveshk | last reply
I have some parts that i need to cut from aluminum. Unfortunately I don't have access to any CNC machine, so I'm thinking of cutting them myself by hand... Is there an easy way that I can get my drawings on the aluminum? Perhaps printing on photo paper (using my ink printer) and an iron? Plan B is to use some sort of glue and glue the drawings on the sheet... Any suggestions are welcome!
Topic by papirkopi | last reply
I started writing a new Instructable and noticed that when I use the preview function the pictures are cut off and therefore weirdly off centre. For some of the pictures it doesn't really matter, but some like I said look weird (as shown in the pictures). I don't see why there is a need to cut the pictures. Is this just an error and will it look better once the instructables is published?
Topic by BrittLiv | last reply
Alright, so I have this plank of wood, it's been sitting in my backyard for a long time, so I figured I'd do something with it. I cut a piece off and the dimensions are about 3.5" long, 2.75" wide, and 5/8" thick. I want to know (because I can't think of a way) if there's a way to cut a gap in the wood so I could put something inside with minimal cutting. It's really hard for me to explain, so you might need to check the pictures. I was thinking about using my Dremel, but I still don't know how that would work out. I have lots of wood to waste, so any ideas would help. Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
I have this circuit board which I pulled from an iPhone dock. When I look at the bottom, it seems obvious where the wires and connections are running. Does this mean that the area marked in the photo below is fair play for cutting and removing without effecting the functionality of the circuit board? The project I'm working on would greatly benefit from being able to remove a small part of the plastic.
Topic by Flark | last reply
Hey guys, I need to cut down a banner on the second story on a side of a building. The banner is held by 4 string/ropes at each corner and I do not have access to a ladder. What would you suggest is the best way to do this? I thought of putting a scissors on the end of a long stick and devising a string pulley system to operate the scissors from the bottom. Like have the scissors open and position them with the rope between the shears. Then I would just pull on the string to snap them shut. What do you think? Any better ideas?? Thanks!
Topic by shieldliger101 | last reply
I study product design and I'm designing a home craft laser cutter machine, I was hoping anyone who has experimented with laser cutting fabric/ clothing/accessories could share what tips they found made the process easier or the problems that occurred whilst doing this. I would appreciate if you could help me with a few questions I have :) What did you use to keep the fabric straight whilst laser cutting? What would be the best material to put in between the fabric to prevent cutting through for example both sides of a t shirt, plastic sheet or cardboard or.. ? Would you find it beneficial if you could have a small machine to cut out smaller sized fabric to attach for dresses, tops etc of for accessories? If there is any aspect of the process that you think would benefit from being made simpler what would it be? Thank you for your time Any feedback would be much appreciated Kelly-Ann Moore Staffordshire University Student
Topic by kelly569 | last reply
After creating a makerspace at my elementary school, I was always on the lookout for fresh projects and new tools and a laser cutter was that one big item at the top of my wishlist that I just never got... but, I know some teachers and librarians who are brand new to the world of laser cutting and would love pointers from other teachers who have already worked through some of the challenges of starting something new. :) So, if you have a laser cutter in your classroom or school makerspace, please share any tips or suggestions you might have for any teachers who are just starting out with one at their school. Also, feel free to share any cool projects you and your students have done or programs you use.
Topic by WeTeachThemSTEM | last reply
I recently installed a Chanxan CW 1610T Laser Cutting Machine with two 95W CO2 laser tubes. Everything works including the cooling system, pumping system and the fan. I turned on the machine and turned on the two lasers. The thing is when I press the Pulse button on the control panel, none of the laser tubes fires. I want to adjust the optical path and I cant do that if the Pulse button has no response. When the machine is ON, the ammeters show a 0 reading and there is no deflection. I thought it was a Laser power problem so I removed the data cables on the laser power box and when I press the test button on the box, the lasers fire beams. So help me out and suggest if its a setting I have missed or something else cause the machine is preventing production to start.
Topic by TendaiM2 | last reply
My house is set relatively far from the road and I'd like a large address display. I was looking to punch out the numbers [5 digits] down the center of an old surfboard, but not sure about what tools to use to get through the resin and then the foam; without shredding or splintering it. I have variable band, scroll, recip and jig saws; and a variable speed Dremel. I'd like for it to be as detailed as possible [hard edges]. I'm of course planning to illuminate it. Any suggestions, recommendations, ideas would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Topic by Sovereignty | last reply
If we look up sonic drills today we usually get some fancy machines driving pipes in the ground, preferably softer ground.But the term includes all types of machines that use sonic vibrations to advance through a media.With the ancient and claimed to have never existed technologies in mind I did some digging...In the food industry vibrating knifes are quite common, same for "air knifes" on softer food.Even in the meat industry they find more and more uses now.Ultrasonic cutting or welding is the same thing and included in "sonic".Same for some experimental sub sonic drilling methods currently being tested.The general idea might be as old as using vibrating equippment to compact stuff, like concrete, bricks and so on.What you can compact by vibration you can also make "fluid" by vibration.Industrial feeder systems utilise this to the extreme by even making light and fine particles like flour move like water without causing any dusting.What all the techniques have in common that a suitable tool or tool head is used and that it is attempted to use the most suitable vibration frequency for the job.Anyone operating an ultrasonic welder knows the pain of finetuning for a new electrode or just new part to be welded.What does that tell us now that makes the understanding easier?Take a bottle of ketchup, preferably one that is still quite full.Turn it upside down and noothing comes out.Shake it a bit and you are either lucky or drowned in red.But hold it at an angle and start tapping it and the red sauce flows out easily.What it true for most newtonian fluids is in some way also true for non-newtonian fluids.Ever mixed corn starch and water to make these funny experiments with it?Hit it hard and it reacts really hard and is not sticky at all.Leave your hand resting on it and in sinks in and sticks to it.Stirring it very slowly is easy, go faster and you get stuck.You can do similar things with by using an external source for vibrations.For example a vibration speaker mounted to a smal cup of the goo.If you place sand on a sloped piece of plastic or sheet metal then at a low angle it will pile up easy and stay.Start vibrating the plate and the sand will start to flow off.Works fine with a vibration source mounted to a piece of steel bar or rod and a bucket of sand too.Trying to press it into the sand requires a lot of force, especially once you are a bit deeper.Let it vibrate properly and it slides rights down.If we can do the simple stuff as well as really complicated stuff in the industry then what about other materials?So far we use vibrations to make things move out of the way, compact things, transport them or to heat them up for welding plus some cutting applications.Considering the variety one might wonder why no one tries it for "difficult" materials.Machined surface can be found throughout ancient history.Finding "machined things" were vibrations was clearly used is a bit harder.The great walls are not a perfect example here as the views differ quite a bit on how they could have been created.But if we leave things melting them or a secret concret like recipe for creating for example granite then vibrations start to make some sense.You find some interesting videos on youtube where people use speakers, wires and rocks to confirm you can actually "machine" them by vibrations.Especially granite has some quite musical properties, big boulders as well as smaller ones produce destinct sounds when you hit them hard.Tests and measurements were made on granite and other hard rocks to check how fast sound travels in them , how it is refeclted and where the sound comes out or affects the surface the most.Lets just say every sample gave different results.Shape, density and dimensions affect not just the resonant frequency but also where and how the sound travels in the rock.What if??We can use a simple speaker, a plate and some rice to see how patterns form under various frequencies.Works with sand or other granules as well.The interesting patterns are the so called harmoncis.Here we see clear and destinct patters, sometimes with extremely fine lines and areas of softly vibrating granules.Some people say these harmonic frequencies have all special meanings and uses.We mainly used them to avoid problems.Imagine your new TV would not have a housing tested to be stable with all frequencies the speakers can produce.All of a sudden your back of the TV might start to rattle ;)Same for car engines.Harmonic vibrations are eliminated wherever possible.Otherwise they could multiply and affect other things in the engine or around it.Simply put it means we have various options to detect and measure vibrations on a surface or in a system.Back in the day every half decent backup generator had a mechanical indicator for the frequency of the supplied electricity.A set of tiny forks with the desired on painted red and several on either side of it.These forks were designed to get into harmonic and therfor quite intense vibrations at their set frequency.If the one for 50Hz looked blurry then all was good ;)The same principle god be applied on a big boulder of granite.Place the "vibration meter" at the desired spot and start moving around the vibration source on the surface until you find a spot that causes maximum response on the meter.Best thing here is that if you then place that surface area onto another peice of fixed in place granite both pieces will start to loose substance if vibrations are applied.The fine sediment forming is then usable as an indicator where to move the vibration source to continue once the effect literally wears off.Is it feasable?Well, if we trust mainstream science then the answer is no.A huge amount of vibration energy would be required for such a hard material, despite ancient proof that says otherwise.Semi industrial test also seemed to confirm the theory as only with very high amplitudes (loudness) and while automatically adjusting for the resonant frequency changes a measurable amount of material was removed.I struggle a bit with that as for the testing tool heads made from hardened steel or carbide were used.And that with little or no regards on how the head and tool itself affects the output.I mean in terms of having the max possible movement happening right t the tool contact surface!There is a huge difference between applying a vibration to a tool and using a system, tool and tool head DESIGNED to work at the desired frequency!Otherwise we wouldn't need a computer to design and test a horn for welding purposes or shade a knife spefically so that the vibration go along the right axis and in the right direction.You not break a hard thing with a very soft thing unless it travels fast enough to become harder as the target!This complicated explanation basically just confirms that if you hit water at a too high speed then it will just break you into pieces instead of offering a soft splashPlease do not jump of bridges or such to confirm this yourself!!If that is really true and science says it is, then how about the other way around?Works fine too, or we wouldn't have pressure washers or water cutters.Now for the part where I hope some really smart people leave helpful comments:If we can cut steel with just a stream of water, then I ask:Isn't for example copper much harder than water?Steel is much harder than copper but water cuts through it.The answer here it simple or complicated, depending on how you want to expain how it works.Comes down to speed and pressure plus the right nozzle shape to prevent a beam expansion.But then water is indeed "harder than steel".Questions:Lets say we would use a copper pipe that in lenght, thickness, hardness and diameter is optimised to transmit a frequency so the pipe end sees the max vibration like a feed horn for ultrasonic welding.Not to hard to calculate these days :)Now imagine said "main frequency" would be optimised for the pipe but also be a harmonic frequency of the rock to be worked on.The pipe end would deform quickly, abrasion does the rest and it fails before even making a decent sratch that is not copper metal on granite.No matter how hard we press nothing good enough will ever happen.BUT: If we would add more hormainc frequencies to feed our pipe we can multiply the amplitude quite easy!Just try with a sound generator from your app store, needs 2 or more channels to be usable.Pick for example 400hZ on one and 800Hz on another, then finetune around these number to hear how the tone changes ;)My theory goes like this:If all "working frequencies" would just harmonics of the resonant frequency of the granite, then they can be tuned so the effect on the pipe end is minimised.The overlaying frequencies however should result in the same effect a water cutter has: The pipe becomes ultra hard.The better the match and the more you have to get it right the harder the pipe will be.Adding now a "drilling frequency" or multiple could be used to drive these harmonics slightly out of phase.Like with the sound generator on your phone we end up with a pulsating sound, or vibration.While the pipe still vibrates at the same "hardening" mix the drilling frequency creates a peak like a jackhammer.Try it by using the heaphone output on a small speaker and placing some light and tiny things into the cone.The will violently jump around during these pulsing tones.For a drilling system the output can be mechanically maximised by utilising a pitchfork design.A head holds the vibration speakers and the tynes are tuned good enough to the frequency of the speakers.Always two would have to operate in sync though as otherwise the pitchfork movement that transfers the sound down the center bar won't work.This head could then be desgined to act as a holder for a quick change of work out pipes that are no longer long enough for tuning.I guesstimate that a well tuned design would result in a copper pipe being able to drill at least 10 to 15cm into solid granite before it wears off too much.And we are talking here about just a few mm to get the thing out of tune!But would dare to desing such a thing just to confirm a theory that no one ever really dared to test? ;)And if friction welding works as good as ultrasonic welding, then what would happen if we try this with the right frequencies and vibrations instead of wasting tons of energy?
Topic by Downunder35m
Basically, I want to try and make jewelry with a geode stone I bought. But when I tried to cut it with a tungsten carbine cutter, the stone turn red and it smell like some burnt stuff. It also happen when I tried to grind with aluminum oxide bit. My geode crystai Is quite thick. Please tell me how can I cut/grind the geode?
Question by Shizen | last reply
I am in need a service to cut bulk loads of parts, I am just throwing this question on in hope that I can have a little bit of guidance. Thankyou
Question by KyleofAsgard | last reply
Im considering buying a cold saw or band saw but im just wondering what is better in terms of cutting quality,speed,noise and ease of use.
Question by Aglife4930 | last reply
Running with a rechargeable battery for 3-5 hrs
Question by somfire | last reply
I have a a 100mm wide piece of flat steel and i want to cut a perfect semi circle at the end of the steel to make it look nice. I dont have a plasma cutter and im wondering how to get the perfect semi circle shape.
Question by Aglife4930 | last reply
The manual of my school's new laser-cutter specifically bans the cutting of PVC, because the chlorine-based fumes generated would damage the mirrors and lenses. Since neoprene (polymchloroprene) also contains chlorine, would I have the same problems as with PVC?
Question by Kiteman | last reply
We're offering a 20% discount on our regular prices to all UK Instructable Pro members who need laser cutting or etching of acrylics, leather or wood. For some examples of our recent work see. https://www.instructables.com/id/Jayefuus-Blog-Roundup-August/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Negative-Laser-Metal-Etching/ https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1Y/55SO/GB3W26ZY/F1Y55SOGB3W26ZY.MEDIUM.jpg Our pricing is based on 50 GBP/hour machine time. Etching is considerably slower than cutting.... Contact me via PM for details and a quote. Steve
Topic by steveastrouk | last reply
I just got a couple designs back form the laser cutters. This is 12 gage sheet metal cut with a 2400 watt laser. Pretty cool right? It’s amazing the kind of edge it can leave behind. Just wanted to share with everyone. This is part of my ambition for putting together project kits, which help you create items from metal. Soon I’ll have a kickstarter campaign going to help launch 13 kits. These particular designs are based off of the salamander pendant and Excalibur letter opener.
Topic by Mrballeng | last reply
I need a cutting table in my sewing room which is really a small bedroom. I have two single beds in the room and need to be able to put up a table that will stradle one of the beds. I need to take it apart and store the parts under the bed if someone comes to stay. And of course it needs to be easy to make and inexpensive. Come on guys I have seen how clever you are, get your thinking caps on.
Topic by Celticangel | last reply
Hey guys, Im starting to build a 2 axis CNC for a laser. I was going to try the DVD burner laser and just cut through some paper for now but im wondering what the capabilities of the higher wattage lasers are. I know there are several 1-2+ watt lasers on ebay, what could they mange to cut through? Could I cleanly cut cardboard? What about vinyl for making stuff like decals and stickers? Im wondering if spending the extra money on a better laser would be beneficial or not so if anyone has some good comparisons or ideas let me know. Im on a tight budget for this build so a co2 laser is WAY out of the question. This is my first CNC build so its mainly to learn but the more capabilities of the CNC the better.
Topic by jdavis-9 | last reply
Hey everyone! Here's a good one for anyone interested in new techniques! I have some porcelain steel I'm trying to cut and I was wondering if anyone has an idea, tool, or technique that i should try to cut the porcelain coated steel with that won't chip the edges of the ceramic. The porsaline steel is .017" thick the ceramic is .007" inches thick. If anyone could design something that I could use it would be greatly appreciated!
Topic by 2001warrior | last reply