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DAM

My final product! It's pretty DAM awesome! Directional, Attack, Mine aka DAM! Looking forward to making a video and instructable soon! Be on the lookout for my DAM K'nex mine! Just a few stats... Uses 30 size 64 rubber bands to shoot 50 pieces up to 100ft at the slightest pull of the trip! I really had a lot of fun with this build I hope everyone that gives it a try will too! Big thanks to JonnyBGood for inspiring the design of the stand. I was able to use his idea and turn it into this great stand with 5 adjustable angles for different angles of attack depending on range of intended target and ground terrain or angles. All around this is an incredibly fun weapon to add to the arsenal.

Topic by Knex Lego Maniac    |  last reply


Wind Dam

Architects and designers Chetwoods have proposed building a wind dam. A giant sail would funnel air flowing through a canyon into a wind turbine to generate electricity. The pictures look unreal, even for CAD models, but the idea is pretty cool. More here at Inhabitat and Ecotality Life.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


ice dam quick fix ?

Question by rusel    |  last reply



I want to build a model of a hydroelectric dam. Ideas?

1st grade project: how does a dam work? model showing river, valley, dam, lake ,etc. Cross-section of dam? Any ideas or similar projects appreciated.

Question by drunnels    |  last reply


Is Calcium Chloride safe to use on roof or gutter ice dams? Answered

In cold climes, snow buildup on roofs often leads to ice dams, usually at the gutter. When the snow melts, the dam can route water under roof shingles and cause roof damage.Is Calcium Chloride safe to use on roofs? (Sodium Chloride is not, due to it's corrosiveness.)

Question by gmoon    |  last reply


Starting to wean my pup at 3.5 weeks

Mother is drying up a little now as puppy has started nursing only 5 mins every three hours. He is refusing to lap or bottle feed, wanting mum only. He eats raw beef mince, Advance Rehydratable Kibble and tin meat - I alternate. He is not interested in water. I am concerned as I had 10 live pups - The vet and I lost 9 in the first 2 weeks as they were too weak - fading puppy syndrome am told. The remaining pup seems to play a little and barks at his mum but is not as playful as previous litter. What to do??

Question by chooselife  



wtf is going on

I just found out that the deathcircle near the empire state building is true and dam my car didnt work there so what do you think we should do to make it easier to get a car to park there. go to shockwave.com for fun and games

Topic by bommber man    |  last reply


What type of steel do i need to get to forge a damascus steel knife ? Answered

I know i need high carbon steel and a nickel alloy steel but what kind is the best to get??

Question by Don,t try this at home    |  last reply


Building an inground swimming pool below the waterline.

My daughter and her husband are building an inground swimming pool. They've dug the hole, but the bottom is below the waterline, and the hole keeps filling with water and mud. They've tried building a temporary dam from river rock and landscaping plastic, but are still having problems.Any advice?

Question by Youngner1    |  last reply


How would one go about creating a lake? Answered

I figured a lake, or a mini lake style puddle would be much better to swim in than a dam or a pool, and also lower maintenance than a pool, so just out of curiosity, what would the idea's for making one be?

Question by Nagarok    |  last reply


I just jailbroke my first gen I touch and now all I get is the apple logo and nothing else.

I just jailbroke my first gen I touch and now all I get is the apple logo and nothing else. If I plug it in, the itunes sees the itouch but it says that I need to use the unlock code that I put in. The problem is, it does not give me that screen anymore...just the dam apple.

Question    |  last reply


Hunting Tips

Hi everybody i was wondering if you could give me some tips on hunting foxes because i just bought a 55 IB recurve bow and the dam fox has killed 2 of our ducks and i want to take it DOWN, i know a bit about hunting, like using camo, tree stands, traps and so on, could u all please help me to kill this fox. thanks for the help

Topic by lukeRAMBO    |  last reply


How to flush out a groundhog

Alright I have a real problem.A whole community of groundhogs has just made its home in my dams retaining wall. I have counted around five separate holes in the wall and have tried to smoke them out with around 5 separate smoke grenades, but apparently the tunnel system is much like the Viet Cong and are just to vast. I need to nail these rodents ASAP before they break through. Any help would be great thanks.

Topic by Sedgewick17    |  last reply


How to get energy from falling snow? Answered

From my research I've noticed that the only way people harvest energy from snow is through hydroelectric dams.   Are there any other viable options? Some ideas I've thought of: -Spinners facing the sky that spin when weight falls on them -artificial tree branches that hold a certain amount of snow and then get energy from the snap back. Could this apply to falling leaves?

Question by Houdinipeter    |  last reply


Water wheel electricity?

We camp every year for two weeks beside a stream. There is no electricity available on our campsite, but we do have a number of things that we'd like to recharge over the two week period. There is a small (2 ft.) dammed waterfall/ rapids in the stream close to where we camp.  Does anyone know how I could make a water wheel electricity generator? Information on all aspects (how to build a water wheel; what type and where to get a generator; storage or regulator advice) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Question by DSHorstead    |  last reply


Got an old 775 intel processor

Hello everyone !  So let me explain myself, I got an old socket 775 intel pentium dual core e5200 processor and I wonder if I could turn it into a usb heater like this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uSgW9AMeIjo The only problem is that I can't find out where to solder the USB wires using the datasheet : http://www.intel.com.au/content/dam/www/public/us/en/documents/datasheets/pentium-dual-core-e6000-e5000-datasheet.pdf So my question is can someone find out where I could solder the wires ?

Topic by jyroman    |  last reply


Full Auto M1A1 Thompson Sub Machine Gun

Well this is a little something I put together mainly for show, but also for my grandfather who wanted a full auto tommy gun! Ever since knex war 2013 he thought the Mepain's shotgun turret was a tommy gun and he thought if he got it working correctly it would be full auto and mow everyone down! Little did he know, even due to my best attempts at explaining what it is, how it works, what knex guns are actually capable of doing as of this year, he still full out believed that the tommy gun would destroy everyone. Well now his grandson has built a full auto M1A1 Thompson for show and tell this year, and even though it's very war pratical or strategic at any war scenario, it does show how far we really are from full auto weapons. Although we're an innovative a we will figure it out... eventually. So let's keep up the good work and keep innovating!                                     Now, let me quickly tell you how it works. It's priamarily based of King Louis XIV's full auto mechanism, which is also used in KILLERK's current project DAM. So my version is more closely related to DAM because it's trap based mechanism, you pull the trigger and a little arm pushes a gray connector out of the way, the hatch opens and gray connectors come flying out at a range of about 20 feet. So nothing new or super innovative, just another spray and pray weapon.            Special thanks to Zombiekiller for making the ible for the body, without it I wouldn't have been able to pull of such a good looking Thompson, mainly because I am not a replica maker. Zombiekiller makes a lot of great replicas just waiting to be made into shooting knex guns so I highly recommend checking out his ibles if you haven't already.              Alright thanks for checking out this forum! feel free to leave your thoughts and opinions in the comments below!    JonnyBGood

Topic by JonnyBGood    |  last reply


I've got aggressive monster blue black wasps that won't die with wasp killer spray!!!! Help me please? Answered

I live in Massachusetts. I have an inground pool and the nest is under the edging of the pool. They're HUGE like 2 inches long and they're black with a blueish hue and frequently carry grasshoppers into the nest. I'm not sure but from researching they might be digger wasps That's what wikipedia says but when I google image search them it's not the same looking wasp. I've tried killing them with wasp/hornet spray but the dam things are invincible and the spray doesn't even phase them! Last year I killed a handful of them by stalking and smacking with my flip flop which isn't easy because they're fast and very aggressive. You can't get within 10 feet of the nest and they after you. I have dogs, curious dogs. And kids. Kids with friends that like to come swim but everyone's afraid to go out there because of these things. What's the right chemical to kill them with I've tried this wasp killer

Question by jtp139    |  last reply


Can you make an ultralight, foldable outdoor toilet seat from metal?

I’m planning a three-month kayaking trip, and my old rickety knees ain't what they used to be, so I'm hoping to find an ultralight, compact, foldable toilet seat with legs, preferably a lightweight metal, if that's possible. I need for it to be lightweight because I will have to carry all my gear around dams, and I need for it to be compact so it will fit in the hatch of a kayak with the rest of my gear. Space is very limited.Can anyone here make something like that? And if so, what is the cost? I'm suspecting it's going to be cost prohibitive, but it doesn't hurt to ask. I’ve seen children’s portable potty seats that quarter-fold, so I'm wondering if it would be possible to make something similar that could handle adult weight. Is there such a thing as a lightweight metal? Potential Specs: U-shaped. Small. Not full sized. Half-fold or quarter-fold. It can have gaps to avoid pinching. Sturdy legs that won’t splay out with heavy weight. Legs about 8 inches long. Somewhat contoured for comfort, if possible.Idea for legs:

Question by GoofyChickens    |  last reply


using Smart TV board from dead TV to make standalone player

Hi everybody, recently I hired a new ISP company (italy) with a SO AWESOME VOD TV service, like netflix and also live tv, , the app works very great and with a good quality, the problem it's only available for LG and SAMSUNG smartTV, no way to watch it on PC; mobile, chromcast.... So... i have 2 more Sony TV and a 4k Projector and i don't find a dam solution to watch this app on rather than buy another 2 LG/SAM tvs and throw the projector (which is not an option hehe) So I wonder if I  can just buy a broken LG/SAM TV (even a new one) and use the smart TV board as player, I think, it's pretty easy to just unattach the board and put a power supply, but i wonder what kind of video interface this board uses, I will need any kind of magical WHATEVER to HDMI converter, and also it need to have audio aswell  I read most of the TV use proprietary interface / connector to send image to the panel, the app it's compatible with more than 200 models from LG and Samsung, maybe you guys know the exact model i shloud find to "hack" the board in most easy way Thanks! 

Topic by srcastor    |  last reply


Problem removing a glued on bearing from glass

I am a bit stuck and usually this does not happen too often :(Got a lazy Susan with two glass plates and the bearing sitting in two aluminium disks.The thing still works fine but the plates were never really centered properly.Starts to drive me nuts that it is always "wobbling"...My first attempt was to figure out if the glue might just be hot glue, so I gently heated it all up.Was a not go but didn't expect it to be that simple.Next try was to use some clay around the aluminum disk and then fill the dam with acetone to dissolve the glue.It did not even soften it a bit :(To make it complete I also tried it with Methye Ethyl Ketone as it never failed me but it seems the glue used is chemical resistant.In terms of echanic tried with a thin bladed tool but can't get it into the non existing gap between glass and aluminium.And even braided fishing line seems to fail as after about 20 minutes of trying to get in the glue I got nowhere.My last resort would now be to put it in the oven and slowly heat it up until the glue fails.Problem is that I highly doubt the Lazy Susan is meant to tolerate this and that it will crack.There is also the bearing and possible grease to consider as I have no clue yet whether or not I can take the disks apart to get to the bearing.Is there any good idea or tip that I missed that I can try before risking to heat it up?In case you wonder: The disk is about 5mm out of center...

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Make Cement From Scratch? Answered

I have spent a great deal of time working on this question yet, I have no solid answer to go on.  I tend to enjoy acquiring a skill set which would be very useful come TEOTWAWKI (the end of the world as we know it).  I am far from a prepper, however I still entertain a slight possibility and see no problem with learning how to do a little more than cope. These skills extend from knowing where to grow, gather, and how to store penicillin to simple things like a yeast starter 100% from scratch.  Brewing and distilling are also handy because it makes a great trade item.  These are all things you never see in the Walking Dead or any other TEOTWAWKI cinema.  One of the more important skills I believe would be conjuring fortress walls from rocks in the form of a little thing we know as concrete which we all take for granted.  Now I could mix portland cement and filler with some water all day long and make a pretty cool fortess, but seriously.  All the home depots in my state wouldn't have enough quick rite for that.  So today I wan't to know what general rocks and minerals (that you can find in nature) can you combine to make cement.  I know there are all kinds of fancy names for these, but what I really need is some good old generalities.  Tell me to go outside grab a handful of clayish dirt, but it in a kiln with some lime and grind it up.  I'm not looking for top of the line stuff here, this just needs to be able to hold a general form for a few years and be a little bullet resistant.  This is for a crude fort, not the tallest building in the world or the hoover dam.  A simple mortar would also be nice, although there really aren't any stones around to put together, bricks aren't super hard to make with as much clay as we have in our soil. So join me and maybe I will put together an instructible on all the skills you actually need but don't have!

Question by jj.inc    |  last reply


FREE DOWNLOAD 1915 ELECTRICITY FOR THE FARM

This is not a scan of the original book, but the original book converted to text with OCR, and strictly proof read with QC controls. Thus the charts, formulas can be copied and pasted into something else.  www.gutenberg.org/etext/27257   ELECTRICITY FOR THE FARM LIGHT, HEAT AND POWER BY INEXPENSIVE METHODS FROM THE WATER WHEEL OR FARM ENGINE BY FREDERICK IRVING ANDERSON AUTHOR OF "THE FARMER OF TO-MORROW," ETC., ETC. New York THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1915   PREFACE This book is designed primarily to give the farmer a practical working knowledge of electricity for use a slight, heat, and power on the farm. The electric generator, the dynamo, is explained in detail; and there are chapters on electric transmission and house-wiring, by which the farm mechanic is enabled to install his own plant without the aid and expense of an expert.    With modern appliances, within the means of the average farmer, the generation of electricity, with its unique   conveniences,   becomes   automatic,   provided   some   dependable   source   of   power   is   to   be had—such as a water wheel, gasoline (or other form of internal combustion) engine, or the ordinary windmill. The water wheel is the ideal prime mover for the dynamo in isolated plants. Since water-power is running to waste on tens of   thousands of our   farms throughout   the country,   several chapters are devoted to this phase of the subject: these include descriptions and working diagrams of weirs and other simple devices for measuring the flow of streams; there are tables and formulas by which any one, with a knowledge of simple arithmetic, may determine the power to be had from falling water under given conditions; and in addition, there are diagrams showing in general the method of construction of dams, bulkheads,   races, flumes, etc.,   from materials usually to be found on a farm. The tiny unconsidered brook that waters the farm pasture frequently possesses power enough to supply the farmstead with clean,   cool,   safe   light   in place of   the dangerous,   inconvenient oil   lamp;   a   small   stream capable of developing from twenty-five to fifty horsepower will supply a farmer (at practically no expense beyond the original cost of installation) not only with light, but with power for even the heavier farm operations, as threshing; and in addition will do the washing, ironing, and cooking, and at the same time keep the house warm in the coldest weather. Less than one horsepower of energy will light the farmstead; less than five horsepower of energy will provide light and small power, and take the drudgery out of the kitchen.   For those not fortunate enough to possess water-power which can be developed, there are chapters on the use of the farm gasoline engine and windmill,   in connection with the modern storage battery, as sources of electric current.   www.gutenberg.org/etext/27257

Topic by Lateral Thinker  


Ancient technologies revisted - The Moon

It was always up there in our sky.It inspired artists, song writers and created some of our greatest myths including werewolf stories.But is the moon really just some old rock giving us tides and a more stable weather?NASA tells us the moon is a hollow metal sphere.Astronauts reported Foo fighters and all sorts of optical objects that no radar would detect.To say WHAT the moon is would be controversial is an understatement but the facts are out there and are being accepted more and more by mainstream scientists.When I was a kid you would have not found any scientist taking seismic reading from the moon as prove that it is hollow.Today it is a widely accepted fact as we can not produce ANY evidence that the moon is not hollow.All this however only spans a few decades of exploring and slowly accepting facts for what they are.We still struggle to accept that ancient myths and writings as well as evedince written in stone is real evidence.Mythical creatures, gods and such come from the mind of people not knowing technolgy as we do today.They got depicted often as interpretations of the real thing.Some native tribe member from the Brasilian jungle would today not be able to make a drawing or even model of a helicopter that few over his head.It would look like anything but a helicopter and shows what was really visible with a lot of details lost, especially if it was flying a bit high.So let us assume just for the fun that these ancient texts and images really show us advanced technologies seem with the eyes of a underdeveloped (technical) brain.After all, we are happy to accept a lot of other things from the same texts without even questioning.A surprising amount of ancient myths and legends speak about the time before time.Or in more modern words, the time of creation.It is always a reference to when for those "reporting" self awareness and existence started.Some scholars though say it only the time when we learned to form our spoken words into a meaningful written language.This statement becomes painfully obvious when you explore cultures that never developed a written language in ancient times.Like the natives in Australia and namy native tribes in America.Many scholar these days consider that the ancient people only developed a written language as a requirement.But not as a requirement like we might think.You can teach one person something or give the person instructions.This becomes much more efficient if you can write it down and the other person can read it.It also revent mistakes and misinterpretations.It is the number one thing allowing us advance technological.Those cultures only adapting to a written and "documented" language long after their peak provide us a story that is shared throughout ancient cultures around our globe.We can hear the same from the mebers of those tribes that still have no written language of their own today.Some of them even started to see the importance and became authors and wrote books about the dreamtime and how their people and our world came into existence.In those older than ancient stories we hear about a time of great suffering and ongoing harship to survive.As long as thier stories go back it was like that.Put into modern context and stiched together from around the world:We had hurricanes on impossible power destroying crops and dwellings but the big cities always surived them.We had winters cold enough to freeze a glass of water in minutes.It was a hard existence and survival was everything.Whenever it got too hard though the people from the big cities offered help and shelter.Our struggle with this is already that during those time humanity neither knew how to build solid stone house now had a brain capable to design a complex city.Either way the powerful people from those cities decided one day that enough is enough and provided weather and climates to allow humanity to evolve.Once pure survival no longer requires 24/7 attention you find time for other things...Then what was it these ancient and unknow city dwellers did to fix our weather and climate?If you trust stories that were told from generation to generation for millenia then they placed a huge disk in the sky emitting enough light during the night so peole could see what is going on without needed a burning torch...The simple people back then were scared and thought their end is coming because this disk made everything so much worse.Huge earthquakes, tsunamies going hundreds of kilometers into the land, vulcanic eruption lasting for months on end.Decades of cold and miserable weather from all the dust and smoke in the air.But those powerfull people promised it will end soon and that the disk will bring stability and prosperity to humans.And when it finally happened and our world was the beautiful blue planet we know today the powerful people left - often together with their cities.Left to go back to their even bigger cities in the skies and amoung the stars.This huge disk was much much later named moon....A nice story, trust me I know....But we like to say that every story, every myth and every legend has a true fact here and there.Often overstated, or simplified but still there...The more we learn about ancient text, the more we actually understand why making sure these stories survive throughout time - the more we learn that they more truth in them than we dare to admit.How important would some historial fact for us today be so that we would try to preserve this knowledge for the thausands of year yet to come?We don't even have this concept :(So try understand how important, how valuable the core of a story must be that it really surived for thausands of years???!!!You could make a much greater story about how you invented the wheel and clock or how building dams allowed your culture to feed everyone through advances in farming.All those facts got lost, only the people from the skies and the disk up there remained important...Can we really be selfish enough to just ignore this fact and state it is impossible and never really happened?The storeis place the moon into our sky at around 100-250.000 years B.C....That is if ignore one tiny detail, but I get to that soon.Science provided us with real answers and fully debunked all the mathy about the moon being placed.When it was supposed to happen our geological structure was already subject to the gravitational forces of the moon.And thusands of years earlier the samples show exactly the same, so we can stop this nonsense of the the moon being artificial, hollow or even created and placed by someone.Or can we?Thing about these ancient stories is that they tell what was happening those "before", the ones providing help and guidance "now".Unthinkable, turst me again, I really know :(But as science states over and over again: Only fact we can see and explore speak the full truth.We found parts of the truth during the German space program and got scared enough to stop.Is it our advance in technology, defence and offense that gives the confidence to go back again now?Some say yes, other say it is a necessacity to go back.If we look who holds the power and who had and still has the control about most vital info deemed to be nothing for the public we have to wonder...It is a bit like a Star Trek comedy."Look! We united, we make a team efford, we are ready!"In reality though we just a bunch of cowards playing dirty games with each other.No one really wants to be just a part of it, they all just want to be first and stay in control.Coincidence? Hardly...What would be the possible implications of all this?Even if we could ignore ancient stories about the time before time we can't ignore basic facts.A hollow moon would indeed mean that just rock is not enough to give it enough mass.Would also mean it simply can't be coincidence that it has no rotation despite all we know about planets and moons clearly stating otherwise.Excluding even this problem we still struggle.No matter if there is rotation or not, the "millions" of years of space debris of quite large size would have left real evidence up there.But we find no real mountains, no really solid rock in or around the craters.And the damn things, despite this, seems to be so hard that no impact can create a deep crater....So of course we found some discarded scientists who started to count and cataloguise all these impacts.Thanks to NASA providing highly detailed images and orbital scans an almost easy task.First goal was to figure out or at least properly guess how much mass these hits added to the moon.Most of them would have been some icy mix with rock, only a tiny amount with mostly metal at the core.Since the moon still has some sort of working gravity despite being hollow a calcuable amount of debris would have settled on the moon and not that much would go back into space.Also some of what escaped would not have escaped orbit and the moon collected it over the years with its gravitational pull.The scientists struggled at one point when they found a weird problem.Not a single crater seems to have been caused by something hitting the moon at an angle.No one up there to clean up and no atmosphere either...Statistically speaking it is next to impossible that every rock that ever hit the moon came at a dead 90° to the area it would hit...Anyway, they ignored that tiny conundrum and moved on.We have a good idea how deep the craters are and how high the rings around them are.Everyone can agree that a crater can't be bottomless, because, well, it is covered by debris and rather flat.This flatness everywhere on the moon suggests that something "solid" must be under it - at a certain distance from the surface.With a margin of error in the region of just 17% the debris from whatever was hitting the moon to create the craters matches the thickness we would need to cover a solid sphere....Coincidence I know but still interesting to know...So when we can finally admit what the moon really is and how exactly it got up there we know for sure that we modern humans were not there first people roaming the planet....Does not mean that aliens were here or that they still are, just give a different perspective on our evolution and how the earth evolved.And we can just change what everyone takes for granted...But wouldn't it be nice when in a few years some astronaut calls home and says "Hey we fund a hatch under the dust!" ?What would we say then to ignore what we already know?

Topic by Downunder35m  


Soldering tips and tricks for complicated metals

Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)

Topic by Downunder35m