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the Deconstruction on Instructables

Winners Announced! We've partnered with the Deconstruction challenge to bring you the Deconstruction on Instructables!  Document your Deconstruction 2013 project on Instructables and submit it to the Instructables Deconstruction Group, and we'll pick the best entry to win a Canon G15 Digital Camera!  Only the Deconstruction projects that are posted on Instructables and entered into the Deconstruction on Instructables group are eligible to win this special bonus prize. How to enter the Deconstruction on Instructables: 1) Register your team for the Deconstruction at http://thedeconstruction.org/register/. 2) If you don't already have an account on Instructables, sign up for one here.  All Deconstruction teams who create an account on Instructables or have one already will receive a free *1 year pro membership just for signing up and joining the Deconstruction group.  To get the free year of pro membership simply email carley@instructables.com with your username and let her know that you are participating in the Deconstruction and that you've joined the group. 3) On February 22nd, 2013, when you begin building for the event, create a new Instructable and remember to document your work as you build.   You can simply document your work as you build over the weekend and publish the finished Instructable during the documentation days that follow the 48-hour build (fun). or... Publish your Instructable with a title and short description of your plan for the weekend and use it as a live platform to share your progress, get feedback on your ideas and share with the community as you build in real time.  When the event is over, you'll already have a step by step documented process of your finished work.   4)  When you make your video for your project and submit it to the Deconstruction, be sure to embed it in your Instructable so everyone can see the awesome project you've made in action. When the Deconstruction organizers announce the winners, we will also announce the winner of the special Deconstruction on Instructables prize.   While building, remember that you can find answers to tough electronics questions, get inspired if your team is still deciding what to build, or simply share what you are making on the world's easiest and most powerful project documentation mobile app, Instructables for iPhone.  Most importantly, remember to have fun creating something awesome on February 22nd - 24th, we sure will. One challenge to enter, one project to build, two great prizes to win. * you have to be a registered team at www.thedeconstruction.org and join the Deconstruction on Instructables group in order to receive the free pro membership.

Topic by noahw    |  last reply


Adding an instructable to the Deconstruction Group

Hi folks - The Rabbit Hole team here from the Deconstruction... We uploaded an instructable for the Deconstruction group from the Rabbit Hole team - rather than do this a million times (and not see it in the group), is it awaiting moderator approval?

Topic by Tymkrs    |  last reply


deconstructing HEMMA light socket end

Does anyone know how to take apart the socket end of IKEA's HEMMA light "fixture". I'm sure it's easy, but so far it has me stumped. I'm trying to shorten the cord's length.

Topic by iankhammond    |  last reply


8-Shot Deconstruction Round Concept

A long time ago, I looked at Mepain's 8-Shot Deconstruction Round Revolver, and I really liked the idea, but as all concepts, it didn't shoot far. Within 20 minutes the other day I had made a small, real-triggered pistol (cock+revolve+shoot) with 8 shots, where the firing pin hits a white rod off of a snowflake connector. This was meant to be a simple revolver for people with few pieces, or who just want a fun gun. At a 45 degree angle, I won't lie, it probably gets around 10-20 feet, depending on the wear and tear of your pieces. It won't win any wars, it is a simple sidearm so you can build more piece consuming firearms. I will have pictures up shortly. Edit: I've improved range by some number, and it is now more complex and piece consuming but more reliable, and the clip design has been perfected. Advantages over guns with magazines: - Never Jams. Ever. - Slanted handle with no magazine inside. No broken pieces or clumsy mag pushers in your way. - Bullets are spread out in a circle. It is very compact, especially if you use green rods instead of whites. - Detachable wheels. This means quick reload if you have extra wheels pre-built. - Easy trigger pull. You don't need a super-powerful rubber band to make it shoot far, so the trigger pull is smooth and easy. - Super easy to build. You don't need to be an expert in k'nex to know how this works. Because it takes up less space and pieces than a magazine, and the clip design requires no rubber bands (unless you really want auto-revolver) this design could easily be perfected and expanded upon to a rifle, or high-powered weapon. It uses one black Y-connector, for the trigger, and I'm sure there's another way to do it, but this is probably the best. I can't find my camera; when I do, I will have pictures up. Probably not instructions because the thing is easy to build from pictures and a pain to take apart, but I'll be answering questions frequently when it's up and posting helpful pictures to anybody who requests it. EDIT: Pictures here> https://www.instructables.com/community/TO67PH4GQ225YK9/. Click the "i" at the top-left to get rid of those pesky annotations.

Topic by DB2016    |  last reply


Knex Revolver Pictures

***THIS IS NOT A PRIMARY WEAPON, BUT A SECONDARY. I am tired of people nagging me about it, it's a k'nex gun that shoots as far as any other powerful pistol, but the main thing I'm emphasizing here is QUICK RELOAD and RELIABILITY (no jams, mag pushers, or anything to get between you and your challenger). It's just a handgun that I slapped a stock on to look cool, so you can stop telling me that some kid's sniper is better or deconstruction round guns are things of the past because that's just your excuse to put me down. I'm not complaining, I'm just stating the obvious. 1. The whole gun, stock, clip, mech, and all. 2. This is with the clip on. 3. This is what it looks like when you take the clip off. 4. This is a front view of the clip the gun uses (I didn't show any empty clips, just take all the white rods off for an empty clip.) 5. And a side view of the clip this gun utilizes. 6. This is what it looks like when you hold it... The handle looks like crap compared to the TDS but actually is very comfy, as the white rods stick out around your fingers. 7. The retarted FPS angle that everyone seems to love. Stats (KI Template): Type: Revolver Weight: N/A Ammo Type: White or Green Rod Range: N/A* Firing Interval: 1.5 seconds Mag Capacity: 8 Rounds Mag Reload Time: 2.5 seconds *This one really depends. A newer white connector will not shoot as far as an older one since the older one will release the white rod easier. That being said, mine shoots about 20-30 feet with a single #64 rubber band at a slight upwards angle with an old connector. Not bad! Sadly, it does not auto-revolve, but there are no clumsy mag pushers poking at you, and while it takes longer to cock and shoot, the reload time is VERY fast, you disconnect a connector and connect a new one, so if you're fast I'd say 1-2 seconds. Also, if the annotations get in your way just click the white "i" at the top-left. EDIT: New double-cylinder. Slightly slower than reloading regular single-cylinders, but easier to carry around. 7. A picture of the gun with the double-cylinder. 8. The new clip, by itself. New Round: Mag Capacity: 16 Rounds Mag Reload Time: 2.7 seconds Yes, I know this design is relatively old. Yes, I know other people have done this. This is the first to feature a design specifically for detachable clips. This may not seem like much, but it reloads extremely fast, and with the double-cylinder design, can outlast any pistol in a firefight. Why? Well, for one, as opposed to loading in each bullet individually (if you use post-it notes they can clog up your gun no matter how you put them in), this comes in packs of eight and sixteen. Also, there are no rubber bands for the clips, so no jamming, no mag pushers, and no friction from the bullets. If you rush and slip up with a "regular" gun, you potentially have a broken clip, or bullets everywhere, or a jam. With this, the only punishment is a longer reload time. Also, while conventional knex gun clips have a lot of pieces, a single-cylinder clip has MORE ammo pieces than non-ammo pieces, and the double-cylinder clip has very few pieces as well. This means you can have more clips built, and the number of bullets you can hold expands exponentially! So again, while this couldn't fight soley against the SwagBoss, or the Knexsayer, or big knex guns, I would put my money on this above any other sidearm due to its reliability and the fact that its reload time is super short.

Topic by DB2016    |  last reply


Anyone know how to do the deconstructed jeans the kids are wearing now ?

They are cut so the white thread shows but the denim is not showing

Question by Jan c    |  last reply


Ikea Hackers -- How does one deconstruct an EXPEDIT shelf?

I have a 5x5 EXPEDIT shelving unit from IKEA. It is AMAZING. But now I need to first MOVE the shelf, and then I plan to hack it (adding LED's to each box! I'm excited!) Here' s a  link to show you what this shelving system looks like: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/categories/series/09064/ My question to this AMAZING community is this: How the heck do I deconstruct this thing such that I can move with it? This is made of compound/particle board (I believe) and held together with little wooden nubs (sorry I have no idea what these wood nubs are called) which are hammered into pre-drilled holes. Any help is appreciated!  

Topic by gigijiji    |  last reply


Anyone else want to deconstruct songs into layers they can mix and mash?

With all the technologies available today does anyone know of an all encompassing program that can break down songs into layers? Like the layers used to make the master recording. So you can create your own mash ups? Say I want the guitar riff from AC/DC and a trumpet "layer" from Dizzy Gillespie. Thanks-  Yellowshades

Question by yellowshades  


Were to find salvage yards and decostruction sites?

I have been trying to find some salvage yards and deconstruction sites in my area for some time now,and so far have had no luck.I was wondering if anyone knows of any websites that can tell me where a salvage yard is or of future deconstruction sites?

Topic by Sedgewick17    |  last reply


Music Mashup: Anyone else want to deconstruct songs into layers they can mix and mash?

With all the technologies avaialbe today does anyone know of an all encompassing program that can break (deconstruct) songs into layers? As in break back down into the layers used to make the master recordings. So yu can create your own mash ups? Say i want the guitar riff from AC/DC and trumpet "layer" from Dizzy Gillespie. Not trying to steal and sell it, just mix and share for personal. Thank you, Yellowshades

Question by yellowshades    |  last reply


Music Mashup: Anyone else looking to deconstruct songs layers they can mix and mash?

Hello All. I am new to Instructables and would like to hear some feedback on my topic. With all the technologies available today does anyone know of an all encompassing program that can break down (deconstruct) songs into layers? As in break back down into the layers used to make the master recordings. So you can create your own mash ups? Say I want the guitar riff from AC/DC and a trumpet "layer" from Dizzy Gillespie and some singing from Madonna. Slow them or speed them up till it works for me. Not trying to steal others people stuff and publish it/ sell it, just mix and share for personal.  Please reply with your work if its in a studio, engineer, singer, label or software developer etc. Much Appreciated,  CoolKat AKA Yellowshades (Entertainment Marketing)

Topic by yellowshades    |  last reply


any ideas

I have several laptop and electronics parts lying around any suggestions on what to do with them for example I have several cellphones with cameras and screens and deconstructed laptops and the lcd screens for the laptop as well just need a good idea for a project with them

Topic by jdc187  


How to create objects using the molecular structure as the blueprint?

I am curious if it is possible to isolate then combine specific molecules into a desired object. Something easy to explain with is the molecular structure of Iron. We know what the structure is and what it is that comprises it. Would it be possible to isolate the different parts, deconstructing, the molecule and then rebuilding the molecule, re materializing, an iron molecule.

Question by ODIS2100    |  last reply


Idea for a forge?

I was watching deconstructed and watched the episode on transformers and toasters and i was thinking...can i use a toaster to heat a peice of metal to red hot? The episode says voltage is passed through a high resistance nickel/chome alloy that produes high heat (over 1000 degrees farenheit). Is there a way to hack a toaster to heat a peice of steel or such to a high heat using a toaster?

Question by trf    |  last reply


How do I replace fascia & soffit when the roof itself is sound??

Frame construction Florida house with 32" overhangs.  New roof in 2006 but dry rot in fascia and soffit(entire house needs done).  After deconstruction what goes back up first?  Should I use vinyl or aluminum soffit panels instead of wood?

Question by jbaumberger    |  last reply


Build a webcam/surveillance cam or similar out of a CCD-sensor

Hey, I've deconstructed an old video camera because I needed some parts, and now I have this ccd-sensor with the whole lens-system around... Does anyone have an idea for a project using these parts? Somehow it should be possible to get the digital signal of the sensor on the computer, to build kind of a webcam, what do you think? I'd appreciate any suggestions! Best regards, Tobi

Topic by Olben    |  last reply


How to mend a clock?

Hi. We love clockwork, steampunk etc and keep buying clocks and watches that arent working. The plan is to deconstruct them to make some other things but now we have several clocks (early 20th century) that we think could be got to work. However we dont know what to do. Does anyone know an online place that tells you (for free) how to do this? I know there are loads of dvds and books but am hoping we wont have to go down that route. thanks

Topic by greensteam    |  last reply


A collaborative literary experiment that you can contribute to

This weekend Eureka! Factory and the Hive makerspace at Tampa's John F. Germany library will be participating in the Deconstruction hackathon. Our project this year is a literary hack. We are asking for random sentences from the imaginations of the general public. We will collect sentences from now until 7PM EST on Saturday, November 15th. We will spend the following 24 hours wrangling the collected contributions into some kind of narrative form. It will be a fun experiment. For more information and to contribute visit the Instructable here and leave a sentence in the comments. We will post the results on Sunday evening. Thanks!

Topic by Chuck Stephens    |  last reply


Does anybody have a aluminium (beer/coke) can apache helicopter template?

I have recently been making helicopters out of empty aluminium cans by deconstructing 1 I bought. I'd really like to get my hands on some apache templates to start making these aswell. I only really need the main body of the helicopter as rotors, legs and wheels are all pretty much the same. A basic apache will be fine, not necessary to have all the other gizmo's and gadgets that some of the more 'tech' apaches have. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.

Question by Magnox    |  last reply


Non Permanent Grass Dog Area

I recently moved into a rental home that has no grass, rocks only.  My two large dogs are used to having a grass yard, so I am looking for a way to make them a raised bed-type grass area that I can deconstruct when I move in two years.  I'm thinking a wood frame with a plywood bottom, fill it with topsoil then adding sod on top of that.  The only problem is that I would like it to be fairly large, at least 25' X 25'.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.   (Sorry the photo is weird, it was taken through a screened porch.)

Topic by Luny    |  last reply


is it possible to make a laser beam more powerful by adding more lasers?

Iv been looking at the laser cutter 'ables and am wondering it its possible to combine say 10 fairly high powered (cheap/er) lasers into a single beam to create a more powerful burn. id prefer not to go out and buy $2000 worth of laser which ill most likely break. or get arrested for trying to bring through customs. i was thinking of using a diverging lens to make the spread out rays in a parallel path. in diagram i understand that mounting the lasers will be a challenge.. but will constructive/deconstructive interference be a problem.. i didnt listen to well in physics. any ideas would be appreciated grim out.

Question by grimgroper    |  last reply


Help! How do you do the acid-eaten clothing effect used by places like Lip Service Clothing?

I accidentally tossed my favorite, and only, pair of solid white pants into the wash with colored clothes, and now there's a stubborn blue streak/splotch down one leg and on the hip. I've bleached it numerous times, but it hasn't budged, so I fear I may have to dye them- But before I take such extreme measures and have to kiss my white!pants good bye, I thought I might just... destroy the blue and create a nifty effect as well. So, does anybody know how to do the acidy-holes effect (Even if it doesn't actually use acid) used by places like Tripp and Lip Service on 'post disaster' styled clothes? a link for reference, not my flikr. http://www.flickr.com/photos/84816093@N00/2914162433/ Any help would be much appreciated!

Question by deofthedead    |  last reply


how to desing a case (box) virtualy ? Answered

Hello everybody. (Dr. Nick accent) I'm currently doing some electronics projects (atx PSU, clocks, getting my brother into electronics, ...), and i reach the inevitable step of where to put them. I want to put them into nice cases (boxes), tried to find some already made and adapt them to my needs but TOO EXPENSIVE!!!! so i thought, if my PCBs for my projects are DIY why cant my cases be DIY too? I tried to make case projects manually but there was allways some thing not right (most of times i forgot the thickness of the materials D'OH), so i tryed Google SketchUp, and now i caught up 123D by Autodesk, both not very through investigated. I'm trying to get a piece of software that let me do my plans (3D if possible), and if let me deconstruct the project into some printable layouts  to guide me cutting some wood derivate or plexiglass (no acess to a laser cutter). What do you think i should use, one of the already mentioned or a new 1? thank you in advance instructables community (for all the english communicators i must apologize for the grammer)

Question by TiG00b    |  last reply


How Many Pieces?-Contest: Winners Announced!

Hello people of Instructables! I have a few pro memberships that have been around for a while now, so I have decided to make a piece-guessing contest. All you have to do is guess how many pieces are in my Knex skeeball machine. The six people that guess closest to the number will win! _________________ The contest has ended, so it's time to announce the winners: The grand total of pieces in the machine is 28,396! Below are the winners and what number they guessed.  Winners! 1st place: bethekind - 28,001 2nd place: mikeasaurus - 28,000 3rd place: Duplo for Daddies - 27,999 4th place: RCS82 - 27,850 5th place: Mountain Dew dude - 27,593 6th place: technicalrob - 29,666 _________________ Rules: 1. Only one guess per person 2. Don't guess the same number as someone else Prizes: 1st place: 1-year Pro membership and a patch 2nd place: 1-year Pro membership and a patch 3rd place: 1-year Pro membership and a patch 4th place: Patch 5th place: Patch 6th place: Patch Below are some deconstruction pictures of the machine, just in case anyone wants to see them (it took a month to take apart/count pieces).

Topic by Shadowman39    |  last reply


How Many Pieces?-Contest: Winners Announced!

Hello everyone! Now that I finished Cataclysm, I decided to hold a contest. And, first prize is a 3-month Pro membership! After a week of demolishing and counting, the grand total is 28,538! Here are the winners: WINNERS! 1. fishgish509-28765 2. firebombfury-28000 3. sprout_less-29,500 Congrats to the winners, and thanks to everyone for entering the contest! :-) Special thanks to Hiyadudez for designing the patches for me. I posted some pictures below of Cataclysm's deconstruction, and the piles and boxes of pieces. The contest is simple: just post a comment below and guess how many Knex pieces are in Cataclysm (pictured below). The 3 people who guess the number closest to the actual number will win! READ THE RULES!!! -Only one guess per person. -If you guess the same number as someone else, the person who guessed it first will count (so don't guess a number that someone else already guessed). PRIZES 1st place- 3-month Pro membership, and a patch 2nd place- Patch 3rd place- Patch All the patches will be different (one saying first place, second place, etc.). I will be providing the patches and Pro membership. The contest ends in a week on Sunday October 10th. Good luck! :-D

Topic by Shadowman39    |  last reply


Metal T-Frame Basics

Hi there, I'm new here and pretty much to DIY in general (except for general repairs) - I'm planning to build a glass dry-wipe board with a simple aluminium T-Frame and need a bit of basic advice. Not knowing the lingo of the trade, its been very hard to find suppliers/information and my research seems to have gone as far as it will ever get, so I figured it was time to ask for some help. I've managed to find a supplier who stocks 25mm square al tubing and was wondering about the best way to construct the frame. My design for the frame is extremely simple - it's just a t-frame with a single crossbar which will run below the pane of glass. I have access to a reasonably well equiped workshop, but unfortunately no welding gear (I hear that al is difficult to weld anyway) which isn't too much of a problem as I would like to be able to deconstruct the frame. I would appreciate any tips which may be useful to a newbie, but mainly I need to know how to fix the al bars at right angles in a non-permanent manner. The desk which I'm sitting at right now has some sort of threaded inserts at the end of each crossbar, allowing it to be bolted a right angles to the frame. I tried googling these inserts, but couldn't find anything which seemed relevant. If anyone could point me in the direction of these inserts or provide an alternative solution, it would be very much appreciated. Thank you

Topic by CorruptioN    |  last reply


(newsletter) DIY Smoker, Make a Snuggie, Sound-Proof Studio

  Art | Craft | Food | Games | Green | Home | Kids | Life | Music | Offbeat | Outdoors | Pets | Photo | Ride | Science | Tech Beat the Winter Blues! Winter is the time to learn something new! We've found a pile of great new craft, food, and organization projects for you to try, and some classic guides full of even more ideas. Try them out, and give the authors some love! New Contests: Sew something warm to win a combo sewing, embroidery, and serging machine from Singer in the Sew Warm Contest, or show off your romantic side in the Valentine's Day Contest to win some gourmet chocolate from Cocoa Puro and Socola! Coming soon: Randy's Dead Computer Contest where you can find a cool use for your old electronics gear and win a new netbook! Build a Sound-Proof Recording Studio Corn Starch Candy Molds Vegan Marshmallows Put Your Thumb Through a Can! Deconstructed Flower Vase Make Your Own Snuggie The Uranium Rosary Start an Orange Tree Amplify a NES Guitar Simple Thread Rack Hanging Shelves from Longboards "Tiny Turtles" Recipe The Convertible War Board DIY Smoker Simple UV LIghtbox Vacuum Infused Fruit Guides 5 Minute Projects Dessert Recipes Laser Cut Projects Fermentation Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


Why do people type like this?

W Wh Why Why d Why do Why do p Why do pe Why do peo Why do peop Why do peopl Why do people Why do people t Why do people ty Why do people typ Why do people type Why do people type l Why do people type li Why do people type lik Why do people type like Why do people type like t Why do people type like th Why do people type like thi Why do people type like this? You see how space and time consuming that was?  I've recently seen a bunch of people writing like that, not just on youtube, but IN REAL LIFE!  Just today during class I happened to glance on an art portfolio where the owner of it wrote like that and then she had the nerve to say "You wish you thought of that".  No, there's a reason why nobody else thought of that.  To make it worse, there are people who go on and "deconstruct" the sentences so the result looks like a big arrow that just wastes space.  Long story short, it will just bug people.  Please knock it off if you do it at all.  And don't talk to me for doing it above, I was doing that to prove the points I made afterwards  as sarcasm. EDIT: For all of you doing it in the comments, all you're doing is proving how stupid you are and you are also making me wonder how you even manage to breathe. 

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


Yeah, about my miter saw...

I know lots of people want me to post my miter saw, and I said I would. But I decided that I'm not going to post. It uses a lot of pieces, and only 3-4 people would be able to build it anyway. Sorry if your disappointed, but I did take pictures of it while I was taking it apart, so you'll be able to see the insides. I also included a parts list below if you're curious about how many pieces it used. :-)    Rods: 996 green-249 white-123 blue-347 yellow-96 red-34 gray-9 rigid tan-1 rigid black-1 flexi-rod (yellow rod length)-12 flexi-rod (gray rod length)-68 orange-56 Connectors: 804 dark gray-15 light gray-34 red-232 green-33 yellow-171 orange-59 white-74 blue-81 purple-179 Panels: 29 triangle mini-12 triangle small-16 square small-1 Other: 205 chain link-33 blue spacer-31 silver spacer-66 tan clip-18 metallic blue clip-15 black Y clip-5 red gear-8 small blue gear-2 orange splicer-12 battery-powered motor-1 tire-6 black snap cap-3 rubber band-3 fishing line-2 strands Total: 2,034 Here's some pictures of the saw's deconstruction and pieces.

Topic by Shadowman39    |  last reply


Knex gun projectile propulsion ideas

So I'm looking for stuff beyond what has already been done. Pin guns are everywhere, slingshots are yet again pretty common, hammer guns have been made but don't have the same performance as the others, and then you have "rail"guns which have a shuttle that works similarly to a pin, but can have the track extended. We really need some new ideas here. I specifically do for my current gun as I have a wicked cool loading mech, but absolutely no propulsion mech and limited space to fit it in. Anyone have ideas that are completely different? If you suggest the following, because they have been done before, please try and make a mech that makes it more innovative still: deconstruction magazine multi band ratchet (multi shot slingshot: if anyone comes up with a magazine to replace of bands, kudos! Plz post dat ***!) a hammer gun that gets some f-ing range for once (we're talking 35-40+ ft without needing glued parts) Some ideas I've come up with that I haven't seen (and haven't made either...) are: enclosed trebuchet (probably spelt wrong, but google wanted me to say "Bucharest" so I'm just going to leave it as is) (an arm picks up a round at the back of it's arc, then comes forward like a hammer but doesn't rely on impact for round firing but acceleration instead) newton's compound cradle: a pin comes forward and hits a shuttle out of a catch, with that shuttle being pulled forward by bands so you have the impact acceleration, then even more from the other bands switchback: a pin comes towards the user, hits the bottom of a lever (hammer) which comes forward and hits the round If you come up with others, or mechs for these, please comment with your idea! Thanks, and let the innovation continue :)

Topic by Dreamwave    |  last reply


I Have My K'nex Back!

Well, I've got some explaining to do.  It turns out my K'nex was never actually sold.  My parents hid my K'nex from me, telling me they sold it, only to give it back to me extremely recently under one stipulation: I can't build guns anymore, unfortunately.  Trust me, I'm not complaining; I'm just ecstatic that I can build with them again.  I'm sorry for the huge lack of activity lately, but I haven't had that many ideas before I got my K'nex back.  My first K'nex creation in a while is this really cool compact lock.  Being K'nex, of course, I wouldn't advise that you lock anything with it, but it is nigh on impossible to open with force unless the button is pushed, or you deconstruct the lock itself.  It is powered completely by tension, and doesn't need any rubber bands or power source other than the K'nex from which it is made.  It is also extremely fun to mess around with, and I could spend about an hour just fiddling with the mechanism; such is my attention span.  I'm thinking about working on instructions, but I wanted to see what you guys thought of it first. The second thing I'd like to share with you all is this 3D Owl I printed over at Fab Lab in Chicago at the Museum of Science and Industry.  I would like to sincerely thank Matt Chalker, the head executive of the Museum of Science and Industry's Fab Lab, the museum itself, and all that make Fab Labs possible for such a wonderful experience.  Along with this owl, we made many things out of wood via the wood laser engraver, and finger puppets for each member of my family, depicting our faces, of course. (I have more pictures of both the owl and the lock.  If anyone is interested, I could post them in the comments.  They're pretty much the items on different backgrounds, though.) Enjoy! -DarkOwl

Topic by DarkOwlProductions    |  last reply


DIY Electronic Salvaging Database / Website [team needed]

Hello, I am a web developer by trade and have fallen in love with physically computing things. I use Instructables regularly to gain inspiration for my out projects here at home.  The magic of Instructables, for me, is the sheer massive amount of ways to re purpose our electronics. Some articles here document devices more thoroughly than the manufacturers themselves. When I was following TinkerNut's Instructable to make a 3D printer I had a spark of an idea, and I've never bought electronics the same since. While deconstructing DVD drives, and regular paper printer I was playing the stepper motor lottery. This printer has a stepper, this one doesn't. Well, I can basically walk into a Goodwill now and pick up a stepper motor any time I want now that I know what to look for. When I was following an Instructable to make a joule thief I knew that somewhere in my head of dead tech I had to have a NPN transistor. I just had to! But I had no clue where to begin looking. There were transistors of all shapes and sizes, some with text some without. I learned a lot of different transistors this way.  I am currently working on a Beta for a website I want to make. I don't want to buy the domain just yet until I get some feedback. This is a content driven database so I am looking for some help. Teamwork Makes the Dream Work! The Idea Well, the idea is to create a website / database that you can go to and type in Stepper Motor and be presented with a list of different stepper motors. When you click on a type of stepper motor you will see a list of products that contain this or similar stepper motor. Then you can hit a thrift store (my local Goodwill always has a ton) and grab the right thing, the first time. On this list of stepper motors there will be a list of Instructables using this part. In this way the site will work alongside Instructables to enhance and instruct the community. (note: I hope this isn't seen as a threat by Instructables, because its not) Also, now when buying tech I am able to analyze the product for its value, resale value, and re-purposing value. I can snag a cheap LCD from the Dollar Store or even NPN transistor if need be. Possibilities Users can salvage and sell themselves? Partner with Instructable community? Horde salvaging - (user 1 wants C02 cartridges, (user 2, 3, 4, 5 send cartridges to us (free box) and we send them to people putting them to use. Looking for some people to help me nail down the idea and beta test database functionality. Let me know if you have any ideas or want to join the effort. I really think this could be extremely useful to us who don't like to waste, especially precision instruments such as stepper motors and NPN transistors. This is for way more than just those though. Cheers! 

Topic by AlphaNomad  


TR8-2015 Review

I received my TR from Killerk this morning. I've had a little hands on time with it so I'll write up my text review now, though I'll also be making a video review in the near future. For now, here's the unboxing and first impressions video: So just to start, I've never made a TR before. I have limited experience with turreted weapons. So what I knew about them I only got from videos and other people's reviews. I didn't doubt the TR was a great performing weapon, but I was wondering what all the hubbub was about. After finally messing around with one for the morning, I can see where the praise comes from. I also noted some things I'd still like improved, at least to personalize on my variant.   I'm going to use a grade scheme (because everyone's impressions on stars and scales are usually biased toward higher numbers). So, just to clarify, don't think of C as bad. It's average. I'll point out what's subjective. I'll nitpick a lot of little things, and I'll give credit where credit is due. Anywho, on to the review. Aesthetics: C+ My impression of the TR has always been that it's been a rather simple weapon. I'm a rather hard man to please in this category. The front is a tube barrel construction. I don't care for the looks of turrets because they're rather chunky for the amount of ammo they take up. The stock is a little skeletony. And it seemingly has weird support pieces thrown in random places. But it's not bad. It still looks like a good weapon. The stock has a nice design. It has a relatively clean cut design around the outside. Ultimately, I know most was for the sake of a strong, durable weapon, and I'll be sure to personalize it more.   Ergonomics: D+ This one I gotta be honest on. The handle just doesn't float my boat. My hands are shaped oddly so I've always made weird sorts of handles myself. While the tires are a cool concept, they help keep your grip on the weapon, and I thought they'd be comfortable, their edges tends to stick out and dig into my hands. They also bulk up handle in a way that my hand just doesn't easily fit it. Like, I know my Oodassault's handle is also rather big, but my hand still fit around it naturally with a flat back and indents around around my thumb and point finger web. But this is something I can customize in the future, so it's not the end of the world by any means. I can still use it as is without being in total pain.  The trigger is a bit different. Not uncomfortable, but not the way I like triggers. Something I'll want to change, but I don't want to compromise its strength, so I'm going to keep analyzing it. The stock is a bit compact. This is yet another preference thing, but I'd like it at a slightly longer length. The charging handle isn't too comfortable to use either. With the rear sight integrated into it, it's a bit difficult to get a good grip on, which is important when you have the bands loaded up on it.  And again, this is subjective so I'm sure I can improve it for my preferences and it'll be just fine. I otherwise appreciate what Killerk attempted here. The front grip on the other had is rather comfortable. I don't think I'll need to change that ever. Ease of Use: B Things look up from here. The ratchet mechanism wasn't immediately obvious to me, but with previous K'nexing experience, I figured it out. Still, I wouldn't trust a newbie to be able to pick it up and know how to use that part specifically without direction. So that's part of the reason it's not a higher grade, but again, nitpicking. It's otherwise incredibly useful to be able to wind the band without turning the turret itself. It lets you load ammo and then just twist the ratchet, which isn't too difficult, to make sure it loads after each shot.  When I change the charging handle to be more comfortable, I'll appreciate it much more. Having a charging handle on a weapon loaded up with a lot bands makes it a lot easier to use. The rail guides and the pin guide are all perfectly constructed to make sure it's a smooth, straight pullback.  On that note, back to the stock from an ease of use perspective, because it's a bit shorter than I'd like, I don't feel like I have proper leverage on the charging handle. It's one thing I like about pistols, being able to use both arms to pull apart the gun and the pin to make it easier to draw. For this weapon, it's recommended to shoulder the stock and push back against you, which would be a little easier for me with a longer stock. It probably won't be a problem for others. Overall, I think someone strong enough could pick it up and, with a little direction, figure it out pretty quickly. It's something I could easily teach a friend how to use and then they shouldn't have a problem with it. Reliability: A This is one of the areas where the TR shines. It's only not perfect because of a few possible things you can do to mess it up. Now, to be fair, I haven't fired it enough to have a misfire, but I doubt that'll ever be a problem. The nature of the turret itself means that you shouldn't have any problems. However, I'd worry about little things like bumping the turret in such a way it skips a round. The power transfer pins offer a point of failure for the gun if you're not careful. Removing a round requires you to manually push back in the pin to avoid accidentally firing off an empty chamber, which I can imagine might be bad. I'm also a wee bit skeptical about the trigger setup but it hasn't failed on me. I may want to make a safety mechanism for this weapon, though. Something that wouldn't allow the trigger to move out of the way of the pin at all. Construction: A-  It's pretty dang solid. I did notice (more nitpicking) that the handle connection creaks a little bit. So it's not perfectly solid, but Killerk did a pretty good job at constructing this in such a way there shouldn't be many points of failure. It held up in shipping after all. There are some odd support structures here and there, but then some areas that are either neglected, or he just didn't care about. Honestly, I have no idea what he added because he thought it was necessary, what he added because it looked cool, and what he added just because he could. So there are some things I might change for the sake of consistency and aesthetics, but it's otherwise something I'd trust be able to drop, pickup, and use just fine. I'd only worry about dropping it right on the turret.  Performance: A+ This is the one area you can say is perfect for the TR. Basically, it's designed to maximize power, and finned ammo are designed to be stable, thus increasing range and accuracy. The tube barrel minimizes the snag on the pin from hitting any gaps and gives the gun a solid mounting point for bands. The turret treats each round as a single shot. The length of the charging distance is maximized while still being practical. It's as good as you can do for a pin gun, and it's as accurate as you can make K'nex ammo with minimal modification/using entirely different materials.  Overall Thoughts as a War Weapon:  I'm not going to grade this because there's so much opinion thrown in here, it wouldn't be fair. I can see where this thing would be everyone's weapon of choice. It has an 8 round capacity, which seems limiting, but you can reload whenever you happen to find ammo, so in theory it shouldn't be a problem until you're rushed with low ammo. If fin ammo is allowed, then clearly it's the best you can do for a repeater at the moment. Without it, it's got the most effective range you'll possibly find for a pin gun, though it's just not as easy for me to prime as a pistol. It's a weapon more about picking your shots instead of dishing them out as fast as possible. I'll need to do some raw comparisons with my Oodassault pistol to see which I'd prefer after I see all the differences. For example, what if the range really does make a difference compared to the ease of recharging? I'll just have to make it to a war with both weapons sometime and see which I do better with. Overall Thoughts as a Fun Weapon: Its main novelty is the range and accuracy you get in a repeater. It's satisfying to shoot multiple rounds down range and hit your target with ease. Other than that, it's mostly featureless. It's not something I'd dink around with in the house (mostly out of fret of damaging the walls). It might impress my friends the first time they see it and how far it fires. The ratchet mechanism might also be cool to show. But after that, there isn't much wow factor. Not that you'd need much more. It shoots hard. That's all you'll need to wow someone with plastic and rubber bands. I'm personally the kind of guy that likes having things like realistic charging handles, removable magazines, adjustable stocks, etc. just for novelty's sake, but that's just me. This is a no-nonsense weapon built for performance, and in that regard it does very well. I'll keep mine around and make small modifications to it. I won't deconstruct it for pieces to make other weapons. It'll be nice to have a raw performance weapon around all the time so I can focus on new concepts without think "I wish I had something that fired well, I'm going to rebuild my Oodassault." So it's fun enough to be worth keeping.  Overall, I'd highly recommend making it at least once just to experience it, see what it's all about. If you enjoy performance, taking highly accurate and ranged shots at targets, you'll appreciate it. It's also pretty modular in that if you keep its base construction intact, you can personalize it reasonably well. Better weapons can be built just for the sake of having fun, so it's not something everyone might want to keep permanently, but if you have the pieces, I think a lot of people will like to keep it around, as many already have.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply