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Windows diagnostic policy is not running? Help connecting to the internet. Answered

HI, this is probably not the right place to ask this question but i will give it a shot anyway. I was using my computer recently and then without any warning, it decided that t would not connect to the internet. The connection status says 'limited connection'. Whenever I try to troubleshoot problems it says that the Diagnostics Policy Service is not running. I have set them to automatic, after restarting, When I try and start it it says "Error 5: Access is denied." I have tried to run a system file checker but there are no problems that come up. Thanks, any help is much appreciated.

Question by David97    |  last reply


I couldn't resist posting this, what do you think about this description?

Description: High quality, high effective and high stability. Display the error code by the result of TQST, then you could soon determine the error in error code table. Monitoring whether the card itself is fault or not permanently. And it will also inform users with the codes when there is something wrong with the cards itself so that avoid misleading users because of the fault of card itself. CPU did not work leading to inability of traditional diagnostic card, the diagnostic card can help you find the reason the traditional diagnostic card doesn't work, you can continue to test the motherboard with traditional diagnostic card after troubleshooting. The diagnostic card do not need new version information of BIOS, meaning of codes is clear, accurate and complete. It can monitor characteristics of post code of BIOS the whole process and reduce the misleading to users caused by traditional diagnostic cards. Completely break the limitations of function of traditional diagnostic cards, not only the standard interface of PCD, but also innovate various auxiliary security parts of improving the accuracy and reliability. Stability test card can tell you whether your computer is stable or not, no matter your computer works stable or unstable. And it also can help find the factors, not matter are invariable factors or variable factor as occasional and invisible potential factors.  

Question by Vyger    |  last reply


Help me diagnose a check engine light for a patch and my eternal esteem! Answered

Check Engine Light/ Catalytic Converter: A while ago my 97 V6 XLE Camry's check engine light went on and the guys at the dealership who ripped me off to diagnose it ($100) explained that it was a bad catcon. I replaced the part (with much sweat blood and tears) and it solved the problem (light went off) and the vehicle passed emissions testing. Whohoo! Only now the light is back on and I am not savvy enough to just figure it out and not rich enough to buy the diagnostic testing device or to take it back to the dealer. Anyone know of a good way to diagnose for cheap?! 

Question by Kaelessin    |  last reply


How to convert a standard video monitor to a pulse-cross monitor?

For video diagnostics, a wave-form monitor and a pulse-cross monitor are highly useful tools. Is there a simple way to convert a standard video monitor into a pulse-cross (sometimes called a cross-pulse) monitor? I.e., feed the signal into a box and the box feeds into a standard video monitor and you can see the normally invisible image corners and invisible vertical interval of the video. I think this can be a simple electronics diagram. Thanks for any help!

Question by LightSpeed1    |  last reply


Laptop shutting down randomly (not heat)? Answered

My laptop has been recently shutting down fequently. It is not heat related because I have been watching the temp and it has not gotten over 145 degrees F. The pc consultant and my university said it was a hardware problem but I'm not sure. It suspiciously started after I accidently went to a website that was labled 'this site may be hacked.' I have does full scans with malwarebytes and Windows Defender but they didn't find anything. I also did a Microsoft memory diagnostics and it did not find errors. I can't find a consistant way to make it shut down, sometimes it is a few minutes or an hour. Since its a Dell, I ran a Dell diagnostics test and it found BSOD errors but didn't have a solution. Any help is appreciated.

Question by Arya42    |  last reply


Malicious software includes 44 trojan(s), 27 scripting exploit(s), 1 exploit(s).

Thought you might want to know what I and Chrome found.https://www.instructables.com/id/Building-your-own-Earth-Box/http://safebrowsing.clients.google.com/safebrowsing/diagnostic?site=http://creatives.more-banners.com/dv/728090001.gif&client;=googlechrome&hl;=en-US

Topic by adcornaglia    |  last reply


Laptop will not connect to server?

Windows diagnostic says WiFi doesn't have valid IP configuration.  IPads and Kindle work fine.  Was using it, shut it down, went back later and couldn't connect.  It also says that my device is connected but may not be able to access anything on network which I can't.  It also says to verify the network security key.  I checked and it is the right password.  FYI I am not computer savvy.  

Question by PeggyS56    |  last reply


how do i get my windows to start up again? Answered

Soo i tried to install windows vista to replace my windows xp but i had some problems, at first it worked out well but when i restarted my computer it wouldnt start all the way, i tried to load it in safe boot and i tried the diagnostics test on it, but all it says is "windows failed to load because the system registry file is missing, or corrupt"...can some one please help me out?

Question by sudoka    |  last reply


video projector won't work Answered

Hello, I have been trying to get a Sanyo Multiverse to work with a 20w chip LED. I may have tricked it's motherboard it into thinking it is powering a bulb. The projector stays on instead of turning off when the bulb was missing. I put the led chip where the bulb was, and turned on the LED on. I saw a yellow light. If I tilt the chip inside the light housing, it will change the colors projected. I could not get a change in color as I pressed buttons like menu or input. Is the lcd not getting a signal? The LCD wires are plugged in all the way.

Question by jbaker22    |  last reply


Flexible LEDs to boost biomedicine

Nature News is reporting today on the development of thin flexible sheets of LEDs which could be used for medical diagnostics, or even implanted in the body to use with light-activated drug delivery.  Besides these uses (obviously cooked up for the grant proposal :-) ), the clothing and other DIY uses seem fantastic! The interesting thing to me is that these sheets are made with conventional semiconductor LEDs (surface mount) and the flexibility of the leads is handled simply with extra lead lengths to pick up the slack. The original paper is being published in Nature Materials (Kim, R.-H. et al. Nature Mater. doi:10.1038/NMAT2879 (2010).

Topic by kelseymh  


Tips, Tricks and helpful strategies for those dealing with behavioral issues.

Due to the huge response to Supersoftdrink's Sensory Seeker and Counterchangeracing's One Legged Therapy Stool from a huge variety of people looking for ideas and help for themselves or their children, I believe there is a need for a designated category. Nothing medical or diagnostic but of ideas that have worked for people, how to make or use equipment, gadgets etc. When you look at the two sites Ive referred to you will see that many different needs and "issues" are asked about. I stress no diagnosis or medical at all. Please give this your consideration.

Topic by craftyv    |  last reply


How can i connect a bluetooth OBD plug to a raspberry pi ?

Good Night to you guys. I need some help to do a project, i got a passat b4 i35b its a car without a computerboard. But with my project i can put a computer board i got a raspberry pi and i want to connect with a plug bluetooth obd( On Board Diagnostics) to i get some readings such like: temperature of the car, outside the car, turbo pressure, Immediate fuel consumption in an hour,water temperature, trouble codes etc.. i allready got, the bluetooth pen for rasp, OBD plug, raspberry pi an the tft (240x320). Can anybody help me with the code ?

Question by BrunoBA    |  last reply


Windows 10 in auto repair loop and user accounts disappeared from windows directory ?

I have a Lenovo 100s netbook with Windows 10. I was prompted to use Real-image to clean up and restore the Registry. When the computer rebooted it went to the auto rep[air and diagnostics process and then into the reinstall/recover options. The computer does not have a DVD reader and no boot option to allow for booting from a DVD or USB recovery medium. I have tried to restore the Registry using the C:/ prompt and scripting, but I can only obtain the Windows Directory. The User Directory is not listed. Can anyone help please?

Question by don1949    |  last reply


"Malware Detected"

Hi, today I got an error message in chrome whenever I load an instructables page; "Google has found malicious software may be installed onto your computer if you proceed. If you've visited this site in the past or you trust this site, it's possible that it has just recently been compromised by a hacker. You should not proceed, and perhaps try again tomorrow or go somewhere else. We have already notified www.instructables.com that we found malware on the site. For more about the problems found on www.instructables.com, visit the Google Safe Browsing diagnostic page." on the diagnostic page, it says; "What is the current listing status for www.instructables.com? Site is listed as suspicious - visiting this web site may harm your computer. What happened when Google visited this site? Of the 18 pages we tested on the site over the past 90 days, 0 page(s) resulted in malicious software being downloaded and installed without user consent. The last time Google visited this site was on 2012-06-16, and suspicious content was never found on this site within the past 90 days. This site was hosted on 8 network(s) including AS4436 (AS), AS22300 (WIKIA), AS3257 (TISCALI). Has this site acted as an intermediary resulting in further distribution of malware? Over the past 90 days, www.instructables.com/files/orig did not appear to function as an intermediary for the infection of any sites. Has this site hosted malware? No, this site has not hosted malicious software over the past 90 days. How did this happen? In some cases, third parties can add malicious code to legitimate sites, which would cause us to show the warning message." It goes on to suggest using the Google Webmaster tools to request a review. It seems odd that it's always been fine before, then for no apparent reason shows this?

Topic by Frank Strudel    |  last reply


some instructable pages pointing to trojan websites ?

 I am browsing with Safari and am lately getting warnings from its "phishing detector" on instructables.com web pages (not all, some), for example: https://www.instructables.com/id/Structured-Light-3D-Scanning/step6/Capture-and-Decoding/ results in a Safari dialog (not every time, so somebody is trying to be clever):  "The website you are visiting appears to contain malware. .... For details visit the Google Safe Browsing diagnostic page for statsistats.com" which, when we follow the link to google, gives: " Safe Browsing Diagnostic page for statsistats.com   What is the current listing status for statsistats.com? Site is listed as suspicious - visiting this web site may harm your computer.   Part of this site was listed for suspicious activity 1 time(s) over the past 90 days.   What happened when Google visited this site? Of the 17 pages we tested on the site over the past 90 days, 0 page(s) resulted in malicious software being downloaded and installed without user consent. The last time Google visited this site was on 2009-12-31, and the last time suspicious content was found on this site was on 2009-12-31. Malicious software includes 24 trojan(s).   This site was hosted on 1 network(s) including AS34305 (EUROACCESS).   Has this site acted as an intermediary resulting in further distribution of malware? Over the past 90 days, statsistats.com did not appear to function as an intermediary for the infection of any sites.   Has this site hosted malware? Yes, this site has hosted malicious software over the past 90 days. It infected 21 domain(s), including telugulife.com/, telugucinemastills.com/, junkupload.com/.   How did this happen? In some cases, third parties can add malicious code to legitimate sites, which would cause us to show the warning message. " Could all be  a false alarm, just wondering since I have been getting several of these lately on instructables.com

Topic by robert2008    |  last reply


Alkaline Charger

So, I want to try and build a charger for alkaline batteries with an Arduino.  I'll be using it to recharge 9v batteries. What I want to know is: What would the optimum charge current/voltage be?  Should I pulse the charge current? How do I detect the state of charge? How can I get ~1.6v from the arduino to charge an AA? Can I use PWM 5v? And any other useful info you may want to add. I have a ton of parts/shields/etc for arduino as well as components.  LCD's, IC's, LEDs, diodes, resistors, crystals, etc. Would also like to do a battery diagnostic utility to test health, resistance, charge, etc. Can anyone help? EDIT: So I made a quick circuit and sketch to charge an AA battery to 1.6v, using an LM317 adjustable voltage regulator. As os so far, it is working.  Now I need to figure out how to make a voltage doubler. I'm thinking something like 40-50 mA output at 10v. I have an LM324N quad op amp chip as well as one of these. How could I make a doubler circuit?

Topic by LiquidLightning    |  last reply


Treadmill Motor Control

I have a Horizon T101-04 treadmill that has a control problem. The motor is definitely good. I suspect that the motor control board is good, and the control panel board is bad. The control will not reset or go into diagnostic mode. I want to replace either the control panel board or the entire control system. The motor is 90V DC. For amperage, the motor label says "19A S6 25%" which has no meaning that I understand, other than perhaps that the maximum amperage is 19. The label says "APMS" rather than "AMPS", and I wonder if the "S6" is supposed to be "SC" for "stall current." All of the characters on the label are very legible. To replace the entire set of controls, I can use an industrial DC motor control, but how much horsepower does the control actually need to be able to provide? I don't think that the one on the treadmill actually provides 19A, and is probably close to 1 HP or so in its capability.  To replace the control panel with something else and keep the existing motor control, what do I need? Do I need some type of complex driver circuit? Does it need feed back from tach sensor to do a good job of keeping the speed steady?  If it will work well, I want a simple control set up like a KB Electronics KBMD-240D to which I will add a safety cut-off switch with a lanyard.

Topic by Ineedacircuit    |  last reply


Car became unresponsible while driving? Brakes unresponsible, motor on, but powerless, few dashboard lights on.

Hi. I own a Hyundai i10 2013. The problem had happened twice, seems to be under the same conditions. I was driving in a decent highway, in neutral speed. Suddenly, the lights: oil, brake, sterring and alternator on the dashboard got on. The engine was working but if I tried to accelerate it did seems that it loose all power, brakes were unresponsible, like when the motor is off and you try to break. My only way to brake was the handbrake. Sterring (don't remember well... due panic!) was working normally. I did power off the car once and the problem continue, power back off and on and everything came back on normally. Second time, same thing happened, this time I was not in panic, I was able to see the dashboard again and the same lights were on. Motor on but without power. Brakes not working, only hand brake. This time, the problem disappeared without power off/on the car. difference in time was around couple of months between failures. I did connect a scanner to the car's computer and ran diagnostics many times, no luck, no errors. I think I must do this while the failure! Not sure where start looking. Dealer ussusally finds nothing. No similar cases on the web. I don't want this to happen again, specially if my wife is driving with my childres. Can somebody help?!!!

Question by JuanL86    |  last reply


Google Malware Warnings

As I visit your site today from my work computer I am getting the big red Google malware warning: Safe Browsing Diagnostic page for www.instructables.com/files/orig What is the current listing status for www.instructables.com/files/orig? Site is listed as suspicious - visiting this web site may harm your computer. Part of this site was listed for suspicious activity 1 time(s) over the past 90 days. What happened when Google visited this site? Of the 198 pages we tested on the site over the past 90 days, 36 page(s) resulted in malicious software being downloaded and installed without user consent. The last time Google visited this site was on 2012-06-17, and the last time suspicious content was found on this site was on 2012-06-17. This site was hosted on 9 network(s) including AS22300 (WIKIA), AS4436 (AS), AS54113 (FASTLY). Has this site acted as an intermediary resulting in further distribution of malware? Over the past 90 days, www.instructables.com/files/orig did not appear to function as an intermediary for the infection of any sites. Has this site hosted malware? No, this site has not hosted malicious software over the past 90 days. How did this happen? In some cases, third parties can add malicious code to legitimate sites, which would cause us to show the warning message. Next steps: Return to the previous page. If you are the owner of this web site, you can request a review of your site using Google Webmaster Tools. More information about the review process is available in Google's Webmaster Help Center.

Topic by NewWaveDJ    |  last reply


Electrical / Electronics Engineering Position in Chicago - RAW THRILLS

Hi everyone, We have one of the ultimate electronics positions available. We make coin-op arcade games and constantly innovate our electronics to differentiate our games from the home consoles. We're looking for someone that can hack innovative technology and make it work in our market. Official job posting is below. Please check out www.rawthrills.com for more information about our company! JOB INQUIRIES SHOULD BE SENT TO jobs@rawthrills.com. Please include a resume and an explanation of your qualifications and interest. ====================================== Available Position: Highly Motivated, Entry Level Electrical or Computer Engineer Raw Thrills, Inc. - February 2010 Raw Thrills, the leading US manufacturer of coin-operated video games, is looking for an enthusiastic Electrical or Computer engineer to join our Electronics Engineering design team. You will be working as an efficient member of a small team on products that continue to gain domestic and international market-share. Immediately, you will contribute to the design and verification of electronics, firmware, and software. In addition to the internal team, you will work with partner engineering companies to develop & maintain products, and interact with contract manufacturers to troubleshoot issues on-the-fly as they arise on the production line. You will collaborate with several experienced engineers and programmers, all the while working independently most of the work day. At Raw Thrills, our arcade games are designed entirely in-house, from the ground up. They are composed of custom mechanical parts (wood cabinet, plastics, metals, etc.), an off-the-shelf PC, a monitor, custom wiring, custom electronics & interface devices, and custom game software. As part of the Electronics Engineering team, you will be involved in much of the arcade game’s design, from low-level circuitry to high level software, and everything in between: * ESD testing & EM compliance * Custom circuit & firmware design * System integration & validation (peripherals ↔ PC ↔ API ↔ software) * Operating System (Windows Embedded) maintenance * Device driver & device-application interface (API) programming * Device functional & longevity test design (including GUI PC software, firmware, and mechanical construction) * Coordination between mechanical and electronics design * and more! Required Skills: * Demonstrable working knowledge of C/C++: need examples of work and debugging proficiency * Solid understanding of digital circuit design & troubleshooting digital systems (from circuit to PC software) * Experience designing & implementing a digital system from the ground up (school project, internship, etc.) * FPGA (VHDL or Verilog) and/or MCU (c or asm) programming competency * Self-sufficient and motivated to independently learn * Proficient with standard bench tools: soldering iron, oscilloscope, DMM, etc. Bonus Skills: * Programming experience with PC↔device communication: USB, RS232, LPT, etc. * Schematic capture and PCB layout experience * GUI programming experience (Win32 or Linux) * Active knowledge of Linux / home Linux user * Working knowledge of common scripting languages (Python, bash, Windows batch, etc.) Example Projects: * Design low-cost circuitry to robustly control addressable LEDs for eye-popping lighting effects * Design, implement, and perform game system latency testing (create hardware/software as needed) o EX: What is the round trip time from button-press to in-game feedback? Where are the bottlenecks? * Design hardware diagnostic software to allow automatic system diagnosis by end-user * Design automated functional test software for completed PCB assemblies * Design circuit and layout PCB for contact-less sensor module o Determine and perform validation testing * Add interface firmware features (i2c, Dallas 1-Wire, etc.) to MCU based board and update PC API so that game programmers can leverage the new features

Topic by rawthrills  


How to replace your cars fuel pump in three easy days

My truck, over the last few months, had developed a lovely little penchant for not wanting to restart once warmed up. This wasn't to bad as long as I didn't plan on being anywhere less than 3 hours, and kept my wife from sending me to the store. But with summer here and wanting to be able to run off and go fishing I decided to fix it. After doing some diagnostics I think the most likely culprit was a fuel pump that was sticking as it heated up, and I thought this info might help anyone needing to replace theirs. Day one, we'll spend this day dropping the fuel tank. Those repair manuals are really helpful, just slide a jack under the tank, unbolt the straps, drop the tank, disconnect the fuel lines and you're done. The reality is just a little different. Firstly the entire time you're working under your car a gently rain of road grime consisting of grease, dirt and decayed road kill will be falling into your eyes, ears and mouth. Second, there's a lot more lines going to the fuel tank than the manuals say, after sweating and swearing over trying to remove the spring clips the best option is just to cut any rubber lines since after 10 years they're all rotten anyways. Now struggle blindly to maneuver the fuel line disconnect tool into position by feel, while pushing the tool into the connection shove the fuel line in the direction of the tool while simultaneously stabilizing the fuel tank with your head. Once all the lines are cut or disconnected lower the tank using a jack, a couple of coffee cans and a bunch of short pieces of 2x4 and drag out from under the vehicle. Unscrew the fuel pump assembly and remove from tank, then detach fuel pump from fuel pump assembly. you are now done for day one since your wife has the other car. Day two, taking a section of each of the lines you cut, along with your old fuel pump, visit an autoparts store, hand the lines to the clerk and ask him for 3 feet of each size, now marvel in wonder as he LOSES the pieces you gave him between you and the back of the store. Smile nicely as he tries to explain what happened and then say "Umm No I don't need anything else" and leave. Go to second auto parts store where they will try to sell you, first, the wrong pump, and then, when they finally admit it won't work, they try to sell you the entire fuel pump assembly, say "Let me think about it". Go to dealer, laugh hysterically and vociferously ejaculate "Oh Heck, No!" when they say the pump is $439.00 and will be in Monday. Lastly drive to the final remaining autoparts store and say "Please tell me you have a fuel pump like this one" and rejoice when the guy say "Sure, you need the Bosch with the adapter socket, I can have it here by three". Weep with joy, go home and wait until three. Day three, the true horror is that we now reverse the steps taken on day one and there is no way to test if everything works until the last bolt is tightened, however day three began with a stuffed up head and severe vertigo caused by allergies, apply medication and go back to bed for several hours until you can stand without puking. When well enough, reverse the steps of day one. Fortuitously the majority of the road grime will have fallen on you already and this time it will be as refreshing as a summer's shower. Add two gallons to clean gasoline and start the vehicle, when the vehicle fails to start remember that you disconnected the battery. Remedy that and marvel when your vehicle starts, but the joy will be short lived when you remember that, oh yeah, it would start before. So now, hold out hope that it won't have the hot start problem anymore, but you'll never know if it will happen again, unless it happens again.

Topic by Tool Using Animal    |  last reply


This arduino code does not work as expected, any help? there seems to be an issue with the digitalWrite function. Answered

Recently, I wanted to make a laboratory grade linear semi-precision power supply using an Arduino, LCD, some comparators, and MOSFETs. Idealistically, I want measurements to be 3 significant figures of precision (0.1% accuracy @ 30V), voltages as high as 30V, and max current of 10A. The power supply is most likely going to be just a single regulated output, maybe if I feel lucky I will make 2 regulated outputs once I get the darn Arduino code to work. The Arduino's job is to simply set and read the output voltage, and is not part of the control loop. That is what the comparators are for. (I learned the hard way that using the Arduino within the control loop just results in parasitic oscillations because the Arduino is a clocked device and can only self correct at timed intervals.) Anyway, below is the code. I made explanations of all portions of it as clear as possible, and I also give the wiring used for the LCD, 4 buttons, and analog inputs used to set and read the voltage and current. However, the issue arises when I upload the code, the setVI button does not work unless I press both it and the RS button at same time. I made the many of the integers display in the serial output to diagnosing easier hopefully. I can see the setVI integer and my dudd integer only goes HIGH when  either it and the RS buttons are pressed simultaneously, or when the RS butten is held down for a long enough time. However, as far as I am aware, nowhere in the code do I manipulate that code so setVI goes HIGH dependant on other buttons, so I am bewildered by this parasitic phenomenon. Is my Arduino MEGA broken? I had a similar problem in the past, where I had multiple analogRead statements It strangely seemed to factor in the outputs of other input pins. Anyway, here is the code. Maybe someone could upload it and tell me if it functions properly on their arduino? That would help me determine if it is indeed a software issue. (p.s. I use an Arduino ripoff called the Funduino, but it is not broken in any way, I don't think?) Any and all help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance, -Max-. p.s. To make the code below legible, please copy/paste it in an IDE or in notepad and convert it into a monospaced font, it will make it very easy to follow. //---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------// /* Arduino Software for lab power supply. Wireing guide:        **Wiring for 16x2 LCD:**       * LCD RS pin to digital pin 12       * LCD Enable pin to digital pin 11       * LCD D4 pin to digital pin 5       * LCD D5 pin to digital pin 4       * LCD D6 pin to digital pin 3       * LCD D7 pin to digital pin 2       * LCD R/W pin to ground       * 10K resistor:       * ends to +5V and ground       * wiper to LCD VO pin (pin 3)    **Wiring for buttons:**       * RS       button to pin 6  (as a digital input) -- Switches from reading read current/voltage values to setting those values, and Vice Versa.       * VIselect button to pin 7 (as a digital input) -- Switches to the 'set' mode and flips from setting the voltage to setting the current.       * UP       button to pin 8  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.       * DOWN     button to pin 9  (as a digital input) -- Increments the voltage or current up when in the 'set' mode.    **Analog inputs/outputs:**       *A0   -- Measures a potential of a resistor divider that can output a voltage of 0-5V based on the 0-30V output this PSW capable of.       *A1   -- Measures the current flow through a resistor to measure current. (Some reason there seems to be a pulldown resistor on this pin, so the voltage does not float.)       *Vout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits)       *Aout -- This will be later implemented if I get a DAC, for the increased resolution. (1024 is just not enough in my opinion. At least 12 bits) */ int UP    = 0;      // These are the 2 buttons used to incrementally int DOWN  = 0;      // step up or down the voltage on the output int RS = 0;         // These 2 buttons tell the LCD to either read out the voltage on the analog pins. (I plan to change this so it reads from a 14 bit ADC and writes int setVI = 0;      // the voltage output through a 14 (or 16 bit) bit ADC. I need 3 significant digits, or at least 0.1% accuracy. int dudd = 0;       // this dudd (dummy variable) is just here to prove that digitaslreading pin 7 works very weird! Any help on this? int preRS = 1;      // Anything with a "Pre" before it is simply what said integer/variable on the last loop. I use these to prevent a parasitic int presetVI = 1;   // oscillation of states that they control, so when a button is pressed, it will not jump between 2 states every cycle. int preUP    = 0; int preDOWN  = 0; float Aset = 0.00;  // I need these to be "floated" so I can set the exact value of these to 3 significant digits. float Vset = 0.00;  // Aset and Vset define what the output voltage *should* be, and are defined with the UP/DOWN buttons. int VIselection = 1;// this variable will invert when Aset button is pressed. Similar to the IVselect, this number will also invert int READorSET = 1;  // Bset button is pressed. This allows the mode to be changed from SET mode or the READ output mode, thus allowing                     // one to compare the output voltage and current to the set value, as well as set the output voltage and current. #include LiquidCrystal lcd(12, 11, 5, 4, 3, 2);// initialize the library with the numbers of the interface pins void setup() { //-------------------------// I tried making diagnosting this thing easier by making all the important data availible in the serial monitor.   lcd.begin(16, 2);   Serial.begin(9600);   Serial.print("INPUTS         RS:           READorSET:       setVI & dudd:        VIselection:");   Serial.println(""); } void loop() {   float V = (30.00*analogRead(A0))/1024.00;   //These are what I use to read the voltage output of my power supply. I will have a voltage divider on the output,   float A = (15.000*analogRead(A1))/1024.000; //to limit the voltage range from 0-30V to 0-5V. Same concept goes for the current measurement.   int dudd  = digitalRead(7);//   RS    = digitalRead(6);//RS stands for "Read/set"   setVI = digitalRead(7);//VI is stands for "Current/Voltage set"   UP    = digitalRead(8);//UP is simply a button used to set voltage & current   DOWN  = digitalRead(9);//DOWN is simply a button used to set voltage & current     if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH){VIselection = -VIselection;}   if(preRS    == LOW && RS    == HIGH){READorSET   =   -READorSET;}     Serial.print("\t        ");  // prints an inital space.     Serial.print(RS);            // prints the RS reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(READorSET);     // prints the READorSET reading. This should only change when the RS button is pressed.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.print(setVI);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t");     Serial.print(dudd);         // prints the setVI reading. It should be '1' when pin 7 is HIGH.     Serial.print("\t        ");     Serial.println(VIselection); // prints the VIselection reading. This should only change when the setVI button is pressed.         //if(presetVI == LOW && setVI == HIGH && READorSET == 1) {READorSET = -READorSET; VIselect = -VIselect;}      // This line of code just makes so that when I need to go from the voltage read screen to      // the set mode, I can just press the VIselect button. It just makes things more intuitive, but could be      // causeing the error, so I nulled it. I also nulled it out another portion that will keep the voltage or      // current setting the same when using the VI buttton to select the set mode. (otherwise it has to be      // double pressed to return to, say, the current setting, if that is where you left off.)   if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset <= 10.00) {Aset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == -1){if(Aset >= 0.10) {Aset -= 0.05;}}     if(UP == HIGH && DOWN == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset <= 30.00) {Vset += 0.05;}}   if(DOWN == HIGH && UP == LOW && VIselection == 1) {if(Vset >= 0.05) {Vset -= 0.05;}}     if (RS == HIGH){digitalWrite(13, 1);}   if (RS == LOW){digitalWrite(13, 0);} //============================================================================================================//   if (READorSET == 1){      //this is the defualt screen, and shows the output voltage and current.     lcd.clear();              lcd.setCursor(0, 0);     lcd.print("VOLTAGE:");     lcd.setCursor(0, 1);     lcd.print("CURRENT:");     lcd.setCursor(10, 0);     lcd.print(V);     lcd.setCursor(15, 0);     lcd.print("V");     lcd.setCursor(10, 1);     lcd.print(A);     lcd.setCursor(15, 1);     lcd.print("A");   }   if (READorSET == -1){   // This is the portion of the code allowing me to set the current and voltage     lcd.clear();          // using the up/down buttons.       if (VIselection == -1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET CURRENT:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Aset);         lcd.print("A ");       }       if(VIselection == 1){         lcd.setCursor(0, 0);         lcd.print("  SET VOLTAGE:");         lcd.setCursor(5, 1);         lcd.print(Vset);         lcd.print("V ");       }   } //============================================================================================================//   presetVI = setVI; // At the end of each loop, the current variable settings that were used are set equal   preRS = RS;       // to the 'pre' versions of the code. This allows me to basically measure the when                     // the button is initially pressed, and/or released. Using this method with the delay()                     // function, however, is a bit buggy, but I did have it working well enough before. If you                     // tap the button too quickly. You almost have to hold it for a split second. If you                     // know a better, simpler way of doing this, please tell me, thank you.                       delay(80);        // The delay helps stabilize the reading on the LCD, but if it is too large, than the                     // refresh rate suffers, and the buttons respond slower. However, setting too low will                     // cause the reading on the display to change so rapidly, it is illegible. }

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