Search for dim in Topics

Looking for a formula; I have a 24v 1.7 amp power supply ( http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-2417/24VDC-1.7A-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html ) to light 2 - 24v led strips ( http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/LBR-24/24-WHITE-LED-LIGHT-STRIP-24VDC/1.html ). I want to be able to dim the led's from full power to completely off, but don't know how to calculate what size of potentiometer would give me the right ratio for dimming. IE, I don't want the LEDs to be completely off when the pot is only halfway turned. The urls are links to the exact products I purchased. Also, the power supply seems kind of large, and I still have to enclose it, so if anybody knows of a better and cheap path to get 24v that involves a little less potential for death, I'm all ears. Thanks!

I recently bought an rgb 12v led tape thats about 1 meter long and i want to attach it the bottom of my scooter. What would be the best way to put a dimmer on the leds? Do i need a PWM sort of a thing or can i just use a 100ohms pot?

I need to control a single LED strip from a DMX lighting desk. I'm planning on using an Arduino with a MOSFET and use the analogWrite function to control the brightness (possibly with some capacitors to smooth the dimming process). I want to be able to transfer the 8-bit value from the DMX channel to the 8-bit analogWrite Arduino function. Any tips greatly appreciated as I've struggled to find any tutorials dealing with only one channel and an issue as simple as this. Thanks. UPDATE: I eventually just used an RGB LED strip DMX decoder and used the three different channels for three different LED strips. The project that steveastrouk posted below is now available at: https://www.instructables.com/id/4-Ch-DMX-Dimmer/ I eventually just used an RGB LED strip DMX decoder and used the three different channels for three different LED strips. If I figure a way of doing this with an Arduio, I'll post it here.

Dim an incandescent, and it produces a mellow, warm orange sunset glow. Dim an LED, with the same SCR dimmer, and it flickers at 60 hertz, still producing harsh blueish light. How can LEDs more closely mimic incandescents?

My joule thief is not very bright? I've changed the windings, transistor and the resistor; and it is still pretty dim. Help please Parts: 2 different size toroids: Large and Small 3 Transistors: 2n2222, 2n3904, 2n5830 2 Resistors: 1k, 2.2ohm blue led white led with a heatsink Also I used a 20awg and 36awg to make the toroids

I want to build a device that plugs into a wall plug then to plug in a lamp that makes the light flicker and dim just a little. Not a whole lot. Scary effect. Schematics please? Dont want to buy. I'm going to plug in 400w all together into this device. -I am running 6 lights that are all the same. I not going to replace them with actual flickering lights. I would like for them to flicker at the same time at night for scary effect.  Thanks-

I was wondering what is the best way to control a AC load with a Arduino. I am planning on building a Christmas lights display that will react to music that is playing. I would like to be able to control the rightness of the LEDs to. I know that Triacs are normally used to control AC loads but I've read that they supply inconsistent dimming. Another idea I had was to use a bridge rectifier to turn in to dc, then use a Mosfet to run it at like 10% duty cycle to avoid blowing the LEDs (Not sure if they could take the extended time under high load they might be subjected to). Then just increase or decrease the duty cycle to adjust the brightness. So all in all my question is will that work and is there a better way to do it.

How do I make a Aquarium light that is automated simulating dawn and dusk, then turn on/off moonlights using LEDs? I want the system to be based upon time. The array of LEDs for daytime use can slowly 'awaken' over the course of an hour then the after a specified length of time, the daylights slowly turn off then start to slowly turn on moonlights. I saw an instructable that showed how to mimic the outside lighting to replicate that in the tank but I don't have my aquarium that close to a window so I'd rather it be based upon a programmable clock.

Hello, I'm making a coat rack that will be hung in a poorly lit hallway. The coat rack will have a basic mountain shape to it and I'd like to put some LEDs behind the mountains that fade on when I approach and fade off after a minute or so. Is this possible?  I'm brand new at this but I'm not afraid to learn. The shelf is about 3 feet long and I thought I'd use about 3 feet total of an LED strip (1' behind the mountain and 2' pointing at the hooks). I'm incorporating a charging station into this as well. I would love for the LEDs to be able to run off a USB charger (like this one from Anker) I'd love some recommendations for how to do this. Arduino? Raspberry Pi? Something else? Thank you in advance. 

Hello,   I'm trying to make eye glasses that are an indicator of how interested I am in what you are saying. (I'm not that big of a jerk, its for an art project ;) ) My idea is to put LED's around the frame that glow brightly when I am interested, and dim to nothing with I'm not.  It's just important to have the in between.  Ideally, this would be controlled by a slide switch dimmer.   The problem is that I really have no idea what I'm doing.  Is this possible? And could someone explain, in the most simple yet informative terms, how to make this work? Thank you!

I am in the process of redesigning a LED reef light using Luxeon III White and Royal Blue. These will let my coral grow the best. The biology of it I have down to a science... My circuitry however is still in its infancy. I have been following several of the instructables but i am at a point where I need some help... I can kind of get to the simple on off in my schematics (given I do not know what my power supply is yet) but as I read in Circuits-for-using-High-Power-LED , I now see that it can be a little more complicated if I want to preserve these slightly costly lights... So that leads to many questions from which most I might be able to get from the 12 books on electronics I purchased and borrowed, but something tells me that experienced people might have more practical solutions for me. What is needed to operate a 24 led array (Luxeon 3, Vf = 3.9V, 1000mA Each LED) from 115VAC to the DC? Now for a topic that I am having trouble with finding information to, back in the day I had an electronic ballast for a metal halide reef light that would fade on to full output over the course of 2 hours and would dim the same when turning off. this ballast had to cords on to supply constant power( i would assume) and the other to control the switch that would allow it to fade on and off.... I would like to simulate this sunrise sunset effect with my LED array? I appreciate your time and help with this project of mine.

I have been unsuccessful in finding a way to duplicate a "screen" with LED lights. where LEDs act like pixels.. whether a 10x10 layout or much more. and each of those LEDs have variable values of brightness. so thats the output... the input would ideally be video but i think im getting ahead of myself, so what about variable light sensors.. so if each sensor was attached to an LED, and if the sensor saw saw 50% brightness the LED would put out 50% brightness, dark sensor equals dark LED and bright light on the sensor meant bright output from the LED and as much in between as possible. any thoughts, opinions or suggestions? thanks, john.

You may not know, but I wear contacts. They're monthly disposables - I can leave them in 24/7 for most of a month, as long as I go without for a coupld of day in between. Unfortunately, I seem to have lost my spectacles. Since last I wore them, I have been to Cornwall (other side of the country) and on cub camp (in a field). I fear my spectacles are lost somewhere between. Being massively short-sighted, I am consequently having trouble seeing things. I have "Ctrl+ed", but I still have my nose just a hand-span from the screen and key-board. So, if I accidentally post gibberish tonight, and the next night or two, blame it on the mole-eyes. UPDATE: I have a headache, g'night all.

Hi everyone, A friend of mine has a project which involves using a large amount (40+) standard 5mm LEDs to light a frame to a uniform brightness with the ability to dim the entire setup uniformly. Due to the shape of this frame its not economical or practical enough to use strip lighting. Rather than try to explain the circuit design I came up with I have included it as an image. Essentially I'm worried that I've overlooked something in this design and was wondering whether anyone with more experience would be able to take a look and point out any problems I've missed. If anyone has the time I would be incredibly grateful.

Excuse me Please: I would like to ask for some assistance in creating a circuit/project that will be for a plushy whose eyes would "blink" with on/off and/or/both the more creepy "blink" by dimming (down to 25% lit, back to 100%) of two LEDs I would guess a slightly more advance aspect of this project would be to put some randomness into the blinking. and the thought occurs to me that through the use of an ardrino, which I have zero experience with personally, would allow for the blinking, as well as sound reproduction too. {e.g. growls from the glowy-eyed wolf plushy} while I am trying to keep the plushy to a limited amount of complexity, and would like as simple a circuit to accomplish the blinking, the ardrino idea and the advanced features that could be given to the plushy I find very provocative,... but it is my ignorance which is not realizing what it is I am asking, so I would rely upon the collective experience here-in. Thank you kindly for the input and assistance. CAH

Http://www.ccs-grp.com/s2_ps/src/pro_item/1/1/3/114/1053/e.html So I got a a couple of these that I found at work...  Planning to use them for my fish tank.  Kinda worried that they will be TOO bright. Can I buy a dimmer to wire them up to?  I know very little about all this, I have a coworker that knows far more. But I was hoping to pick your BRa--IIA-NS!!!

I recently purchase some 3528 300p LED Strip Light so that I can make some under cabinet lighting. I wanted to make my own because I believe I can to it for a much better price and learn something in the process rather than buying an LED light set from a big box retailer. I have a 3 position rocker switch Off/high/low. If possible I would like to use the LED lights in a High/Low configuration. From what I read they make PWM modules that control the LED making them appear to be dimmable, but I do not want to use one of these devices. For the low setting I was considering wiring in a POT or an inline resistor to drop the Voltage to the LED's. On second thought I suspect that this would not work and if I drop the voltage too low this would result in inoperable LED's. By the way I would not be opposed using an inline resistor if this is a good way to reduce the light level Is there some cheap electronic component that will produce or simulate an approximate 50% PWM that I can wire inline with the switch, in effect producing a low lighting mode? I am not interested in using a variable PWM control, I just want to achieve a switchable high/low lighting. I am not familiar with components and I hope you could suggest a few ideas for my project. Some details: The led strip will be ~11 linear ft using 12VDC and about 40W of electricity.

OK, The image bellow is what my circuit is looking like. Everything works fine, but I want to make it a dimming circuit instead of a flashing one. This is all being powered by a 9volt battery.

I Live in a suburb of India I have found a radio shack here. I have managed to found only one kind of rotary potentiometer there ie, A10K(Brand: I-MAXX Made in Taiwan) with 3 pins on the side and 2 pins at the bottom... (something like the pic however instead of the blue bottom I have sea green). Well how to embed it in an led circuit or speaker circuit to dim the light or control the volume of a speaker respectively..... Thanks....

Hi, Please refer to https://www.instructables.com/id/Motherboard-Clock-Cum-Night-Dim-Arc-Light-/ These are created using old computer and mobile phone parts. Please do feel free to express any types tips  or suggestion you  would  like to give. Thanks, Richi

Hello guys! I was wondering if there are dimmable light bulbs in the market that can be controlled over wifi or bluetoooth. I have an idea for a product and an app to control it. Can anyone help? Thanks a lot! Sam

Hi, Please refer to https://www.instructables.com/id/Motherboard-Clock-Cum-Night-Dim-Arc-Light-/  These are created using old computer and mobile phone parts. Please do feel free to express any types tips  or suggestion you  would  like to give. Thanks, Richi

Take a look at the pic, i have a 9v battery, two 50 volt 3300uF capacitors, and a 2.4 volt green 20ma led, when i hook up led normally i need a resistor and proper powr supply, but i was bored and started randomly hooking things together(mad science) any way i hooked the 2 capacitors together and wired a led inbetween them, plugged in the 9volt and the led started dim then got brighter then i have ever seen these crappy leds get, i left it on for 30 mins and it stayed on, i expected a fast burn out due to no resistor but no it was great, then i unplugged the 9v and the led slowly faded off which i kinda guessed would happen dimmed for 10 seconds then turned off.. ok my Q why did this happen, i have little expierence with capacitors, know they make good tazer but thats about it. and why did the led work like this with no resistor? is the capacitor pulling enough power that the 9v is working on lower volt? w/e answers please

Hi, I have created motherboard clock- cum- night dim arc light using old computer and mobile phone parts. Looking for some reviews and tips.  Please suggest. www.instructables.com/id/Motherboard-Clock-Cum-Night-Dim-Arc-Light-/ Thanks Richi

I have hooked up a 5k pot to this thing http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11304, and it dims it ok but1) how do I get a fuller range of dimming? it only dims towards the last 45 degrees. Any higher value (10k, +) gives worse results. Do I need 1k pot? Is there a way to make the 5k work better?2) even when the pot is all the down, the led is still dimly lit. Please make it go away.3) Do I need to use all three terminals on the pot?As you can tell from my questions, I am slightly above doofus level so please be kind.

Hi Folks, Might someone know how to place a 'pot' into a USB speaker circuit?   I have one speaker, every time an instructional comes on, the volume is too loud, to soft, then I have to go to control panel to increase or reduce the sound. I figured that a variable pot might work. I have the pin outs for USB, 2,3 are D-, D+, 1 vcc, 4, grnd. I would appreciate your help, Thanks jack jackhg@sonic.net

I'm trying to find an inexpensive way to control a variable-white LED strip with knobs. There are tons of remote dimmers and wall-touch-controls available. These are way too complicated or too big for my application. All I want is two knobs. One that controls the brightness of the LED strips and one that controls the color temperature between the cold and the warm white LEDs I did some research and see two possible solutions: a) 100% analog using potentiometers and LED drivers or b) using potentiometers, Arduino, and LED drivers. Here are the details: a) Analog: - Use two LED drivers to drive the actual LEDs, like these ones: http://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/buckpuck-dc-led-drivers - Use two dual-channel potentiometers to control the brightness of the two different LEDs in the strips:   - One controls the brightness for both channels (connected to the same pins)   - One controls the relative brightness between the channels (connected to opposite side pins) b) Using Arduino: - Any Arduino with analog inputs - Two single-channel potentiometers connected to two analog inputs - Some software that generates the correct PWM outputs for the two LED channels - LED drivers that can dim using PWM signal input. According to this post, the same BuckPucks can do that, too: http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=14603.msg107089#msg107089 Do you have any advice on these options? Is there a third one or even an off the shelf solution? What about compliance and certification? If I use BuckPucks and other components that are certified, do I still need a certification for the whole system? (assuming I want to use the design not just for my personal pleasure)

So I dropped my NDSL about a month ago and it would not power on. I took it apart and figured the L2 fell out of place. So, I soldered it back on and everything seemed OK, except that my upper screen is now totally darker (perhaps one-half or less than one-half as bright) and very difficult to see. It's almost impossible to play games like Final Fantasy IV or really any game that mainly depends on the upper screen. So I figured that I should get that part replaced, which I did several weeks later. Now I think I did the replacement right, as my DS powers on (both top and bottom screens) and the sound works fine, but the darker upper screen issue persists! Oh, and furthermore, after I replaced the upper screen, there seems to be a row of lights trying to come through at the bottom of the new screen... they look like four brighter, more "normal" (as opposed to dim like the rest of my top screen) spots of light that weren't there before. Now, I'm guessing my screen is fine, and the problem might be something else... Anyone have any ideas? Please help :)

Dim LEDs over 100 ft 12v source through 12/2 mc

I bought a Crydom D2425 Solid State Relay 240 Vac 25 Amp relay and I've been able to use it in tandum with my arduino uno to turn on and off a desk lamp so far. I've been reading up on pulse width modulation and was wondering if it was possible to control the lamps light level (something more than just on and off) with it. All help is greatly appreciated.

I would like to set up a few fluorescent light fixtures that each have one blacklight bulb and one white bulb. I would like to be able to control them individually so that I can have either the blacklight bulb or the white bulb on at any given time. It would be preferable to be able to dim the white bulbs, but this isn't necessary. I am okay with running a 14/3 power cable assuming two ballasts would fit in one fixture. I would also like to accomplish this as cheaply as possible.  Thank you.

I want to make something for my 120V AC Black&Decker; Jigsaw, But it will cover the trigger. My question is: Is okay to use a 120V/110V AC Dimmer (PWM?) to control the speed instead? I can keep the jigsaw's trigger at "full power" with a zip-tie, But the control the speed control will come through the dimmer... Are there any problems with the fact that the jigsaw is an "inductive load"? If it is, Can I improve it with a capacitor? My jigsaw uses 4.5Amps @120V, How many Watts is it? (IDK the formula for AC Watts...) Is there any more information that I missed? Thanks,     Yonatan

Want to dim/ bright LED with two push buttons. PIC 12F675 and 16F628A will helpful to me. Thanks

Like the Music to LED blinker projects. I was thinking that instead of using the LEDS to blink to the voltage which I think is the peak in voltage. I could use a pot to control the input of voltage and then the transistor could ramp it up like show in the instructable(s). Example: as you increase the voltage with the potientometer the tip31c controls the amount of voltage that is produced. Oh, and by the way im using slide pots, thats why I dont use a light dimmer. If you have any other suggestions of thoughts you are free to say. Thanks Oscar.

I'm trying to make a night light for my little sister and thought it would be cool if I could make the leds fade alternatively. basically  the red would get bright and then dim and then the green would get bright and then dim and lastly the blue would get bright and then dim and then the cycle would start again. I found some code that allows me to brighten and dim a single LED but I couldn't figure out how to alternate three of them. Could you help me please : )

Hello all' This is the greatest web sight ever...l Love it!! I hope someone may be able to help me out?? I'm very new to working with leds..... I am working on a small project with my son, It has 4 white leds in it and two blinking red leds.  they call for 470 ohm resistors for each led.....But it's way to bright for project?? I tried 1000 ohm and 2200 ohm resistors.  The 2200's gave us the look we were looking for:) My question is.....Will this harm the leds or will to be fine??  Buy the way I'm using a 12 volt ac adapter to run these leds. Thanks so very much in advance!!! God Bless

I am just a newbie when it comes to leds. What I have is a max 4vdc solar panel. I have shined every light I have on this panel and seen a max output of 3.96vdc. I would like it to power a single red led with a 1.7 forward voltage and 20mA. I would like to protect my led because. I have both indoor and outdoor uses for this application. I figure just a simple resistor will only limit the extreme side of the input. But once I take it indoors there will be too much resistance on the led to produce any light. I need an alternative. I understand that once the solar panel output is dropped a little below the 1.7v loose the light from the led and this is exactly what I want. To sum up, I need a way to light an led using a solar panel from low and high light sources with out damaging the led. Any help would be great. Thanks

Ok i have one LCD from a welding mask and i need another. What i want to do is basically make auto-dimming glasses. I want this particular type because all i have to do is apply a few volts and the entire thing will dim, it makes things simple. Can someone please tell me where i can buy some if anywhere. Or give me a suggestion as to what else i could use.

I have a Maplins N93CX Switching Mode Power Supply. It has worked fine for the last 5 months or so, but just under a week ago I shorted the terminals, and normally because of all it's current limiting and stuff is absolutely fine with this but this time it just suddenly shut down, blew the the fuse internally and the one in the plug. GRRR. I seem to have located the fault on the mains side as with a dim bulb tester the bulb will instantly light with it switched on. Another thing I have noticed which I find very weird is that if I measure the resistance across the live and neutral mains in it will at first measure just under 1 Megaohm, however if I short the terminals then measure the resistance will go down to 500kohms!  I should be able to post a picture of internals if anyone needs.

I bought two strings of solar LED christmas lights this year.   They don't get as bright as the plug-in LED lights I see around the neighborhood.  What I'm wondering is if it's possible to take some other cheap solar lighting fixture for the yard, and add the extra solar panels to my LED setup to give the batteries a better charge. While I was rewiring stuff, I'd also probably want to make the lead cord to the solar panel a bit longer so I had more flexibility about where I put the panels for optimal sunlight exposure.  I'm totally new to wiring adventures, so I don't know what would be needed to make sure all of this would be weatherproof.  I've searched here, and could not find an instructable on this topic.  Looking forward to seeing one added, or being directed to one if it already exists! -Alison

I have hooked up a 5k pot to this thing http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11304, and it dims it ok but1) how do I get a fuller range of dimming? it only dims towards the last 45 degrees. Any higher value (10k, +) gives worse results. Do I need 1k pot? Is there a way to make the 5k work better?2) even when the pot is all the down, the led is still dimly lit. Please make it go away.3) Do I need to use all three terminals on the pot?As you can tell from my questions, I am slightly above doofus level so please be kind.

I am trying to fix a broken spectrophotometer that is valued at well over a thousand dollars. The problem: looking in the light bulb compartment, it seems the tungsten-halogen lamp is pretty dim. The bulb is rated for 6V. Using a multimeter, it appears to get about 8 volts. Could too much voltage cause the bulb to be dim? If so, How can I lower the voltage to 6? Would a resistor work? Thanks!

To dim very bright objects such as sun

I was wandering if you could give me a bit of advice on repairing my LED roof light bar, there is issue with 2 sets of 3 LEDs. there are a total of 60 3w leds and for some reason (probably condensation) 2 sets of 3 LEDs (one in the middle and one in the end) get dimmed. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

IS THERE A SIMPLE AND EASY HACK USING WHATS ALREADY BUILT IN OR CAN WE MAKE THE SYMBOLS ONLY ON ALL MY KEYBOARD BUTTONS LIGHT UP JUST ENOUGH TO BE VISIBLE(NOT TOO MUCH POWER CONSUMPTION)?

I'm using a mac for presentation purposes and it constantly, randomly shows me all of my open windows, dimming the second display. This problem has been happening for a while but has not been a huge problem since it was not being used for presentation purposes. It is really distracting for viewers when the power point suddenly disappears and the screen dims. It would be a great help if someone could tell me why it is doing this. Thanks

I am making a device which turns the light in my room on and off. The way I am doing it uses a wireless remote which came with the light, which I control by bypassing the switch with a relay for a quarter second. Any longer than a second and the light starts to dim. I also have an arcade button on a wire spread across my room that, when pressed, bypasses the switch. I know the problem isn't there. The switch has about 4.9 volts running through it when pressed. The problem I have is when the switch is bypassed it STAYS bypassed and the light keeps dimming up and down. Many times when I connect the remote if the light is off it will turn on and then proceed to dim up and down. When the light is dimming (when it isn't suppose to), about 50 micro volts are running through. Could anything electricity be getting through the relay (I know I have the relay put in the right direction, I did a continuity test)? I have checked for short circus with my multimeter and there are none. Is there a way to fix the problem? Possibly a resistor or voltage regulator, or a way to bring up the turn on voltage? Diode Maby???

Ok, if i turn off at just the remote then it works fine ,the problem only starts if it is turned off at tv switch or mains plug. the stand by light just "flashes slow +dim , but if i try it when i pass it some times it bursts into life ,can"t be a big fault as it is fine ,,,,when it comes on aaaah.some one must be able to help me.pete

First:  The Cree MC-E LED is rated at 350 milliamps but has a max voltage of 700 milliamps.  Does that mean I should get a 350 or 700 milliamp driver.   Two:  On ledsupply there are wired buckpucks with external dimming and potentiometers.  What is the difference between external dimming and what a potentiometer would do (lower the voltage and so dim the light)? Three:  On Deal Extreme it says driving voltage/current is 3.2V~3.5V, 350mA~700mA.  On ledsupply it says "12.8Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 350mA and 13.6Vf - Typ. Forward Voltage @ 700mA?  What is the difference between driving and forward voltage/current?  What voltage and current comes out of the buckpuck? I am trying to make a bike light.  Thanks for the input -jacob