ms-dos help?

well i was ready about windows 8 and saw the orginal windows called windows 1.0 , 2.0 , and 3.0 and i figured you could only get the installion disk off ebay or from a friend so is it legal to get a copy off the net and use it or would i have to buy it? 2nd how would i install it just like windows xp (somewhat) thanks

Question by knexsuperbuilderfreak   |  last reply


How do you get a shipping container certified to legally live in?

It would be cool to attach a bunch of those things together and install a bunch of doors, windows, decks, etc. Seattle, Washington

Question by sensoryhouse   |  last reply


Is it legal to make mods for Minecraft?

I am a Minecraft modder, and I have a youtube channel teaching other people how to make mods for Minecraft (www.youtube.com/henrythecoder). Recently, youtube has offered me to participate in "revenue sharing", where basically youtube puts ads on my videos, and in turn I get paid a small amount of money per view. However, in order for me to qualify for this, I have to certify that I own the rights to everything I do in the video, and that what I am doing is legal. Thus, I need to find out if it is actually legal to make mods for Minecraft. For those of you who may not know Minecraft very well, it's a game with a very large modding community. I don't know if the makers of Minecraft "officially" support people making mods (Minecraft isn't open source), but they certainly make no effort whatsoever to stop it. In the next update of Minecraft, the makers of the game have also revealed that the game may include built in mod support (making it easier to install mods). Anybody know the answer?

Question by Ke-Bob   |  last reply


How do I add text to a photograph, like on lolcats.com?

I have a pc running vista, with various simple photo editing software applications installed, including MS-Paint. I want to put text on a photograph I took of my cat so I can submit it to lolcats.com.

Question by    |  last reply


Do you own Windows XP if you have a product key? Answered

I have a used laptop with a Windows XP product key on the bottom.  I would like to format and start fresh, but don't have the install disks.  Is it legal to use a downloaded version of XP and use my key?  Is this even possible?  Thanks in advance.

Question by salomon1996   |  last reply


How do i enable aero in windows 7 RTM?

I just got Windows 7 RTM(legally) installed, activated, genuine, and all that.(Coming from the Release canidate) But only one thing is wrong, The aero, No Aero what-so-ever, I am stuck with this windows basic theme. I tried everything, From registry hacks to trying to enable it in the control panel, nothing works. Any ideas? Thanks ~ReCreate

Question by ReCreate   |  last reply


Can i make my car stereo a AUX only setup?

I have a purpose built street legal race car with all the stereo gear (Wire, speakers, etc) still installed but missing a head unit. I'd like to just add an aux imput to the current wiring instead of buying a head unit. Is there some product that allows me to do this? What do i need to know? Thanks

Question by Srivers33   |  last reply


E-bike modifications

For a few years now the popularity of electrically assisted bikes, scooters and Seway like devices is growing.If you see all these nice Youtube videos of people enjoying a ride without actually doing anything then you often want to join.In most countries though anything with two wheels and a motor is somehow classified.A nice way to for example prevent someone to run a 2000W E-bike at 120miles per hour down the freeway...There is a limit in terms of motor or power on the wheel, sometimes even a combination of both.Anything above and it is actually a motorcycle by definition.If you are in a country without such restrictions and clissifactions then read something else as nothing here will apply to your ;)What is the difference between an electrically assisted bike and an electric bike?The most common regulation for E-bikes is that they only drive the motor if you actually pedal enough.Even with higher power motors they are usually just restricted in the max speed at which the motor still helps.For example you get assistence up to 25km/h but above you are on your own.An electric bike or scooter does not have this requirement even if there might be working pedals on it.Here we have restrictions on the max power that is allowed and often also a max speed that can be reached.What does it mean if I remove restrictions from my E-bike or scooter of sorts?Without any corresponding road or vehicle laws and regulation nothing at all.In most countries though you would turn your fun toy into a motorcycle by classification.As such it would need to be conform with everything a motorbike needs to fullfill.However, you can't register it because it was modified and never intended or designed for this, it would be illegal.It is no problem to find info on the WWW on how to remove any possible restrictions, install stronger motors and batteries plus heaps more.But should you risk it?What happens if my mods are illegal and I cause an accident or get involved in one?If we trust statistics then the morojity of electric bokis or scooters involved in accidents is modifed to get more than the allowed power.The statistics however conviently fail to show how many accidents were actually caused by them.This means we can assume the same that the cops or forensic investigators assume: Unless confirmed to be legal the thing has illegal modifications.With that comes the legal approach on any rider that caused an accident with serious injuries or worse.Without the modifications you would get a slap on the wrist unless you were careless, after all accidents happen.Modified however you face several problems.a) You illegally created a motorcycle that is not approved for the use on anything but your own private property.b) As it is now classified as motor vehicle you will be charged with driving it without the proper licences, driving an illegal vahicle or a combination of both.c) With serious injury or death on the table you are no longer a kid having some fun on his new toy, you are a serious criminal.With all three boxes ticked you are likely to end with a jail sentence.Is it really worth the risk?Get a license and a real motorbike with numberplate, insurance and all - no scooter or E-bike will give you that feeling...If you are still not fully convinced then imagine how it would be on the other side of the story...You come home from a nice and speedy ride on your modified E-bike and the police is already at the door and your parents in tears.It was not you but someone else on a way too fast E-bike that got your little sister into hospital after getting hit.And since the rider knew what he was up for he made a runner...How would you feel here? Always consider this feeling when you think it is worth putting other people in harms way...

Topic by Downunder35m 


Microsoft Office Small Business edition; Differences? Answered

I had a question about MS Office XP Small Business Edition 2002 edition. I recently came across the first picture (my Uncle gave it to me).I don't know what the difference is between Small Biz edition or normal.So I guess I'm asking...What's the Difference between Small Business and Home?Do I get multiple installs with a single key with SBE?If so, How many / Unlimited?And what does the second image mean?

Question by xACIDITYx   |  last reply


HOW CAN I MAKE A TYPE OF PRIVACY WINDOWS(INSTANT TINT AT A FLIP OF SWITCH FOR WHEN PRIVACY NEEDED ANYWHERE/ANYTIME)? Answered

WHAT I AM TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH HERE IS A SAFE, HOPEFULLY INEXPENSIVE, RELIABLE, REASONABLE, AND VERY EFFECTIVE KIND OF INSTANT WITH VARIABLE OR ADJUSTABLE KIND OF TINT OR PRIVACY FEATURE TO WINDOW(s) IN PERCENTAGE AS TO HOW MUCH VISIBILITY IS ALLOWED THRU A WINDOW(s) FROM BOTH IN & OUT.CONCEPT IDEA: WHAT I WAS THINKING OF IS A FEATURE WE CAN ADD I GUESS SIMILAR TO TINT FILM THAT IS INSTANTLY, AT A FLIP OF SWITCH FOR WHEN PRIVACY NEEDED ANYWHERE AT ANYTIME ALSO ALLOWING VARIABLE "PRIVACY" TYPE OF SWITCH(SO A MAIN ON/OFF POWER SWITCH, AN INSTANT "ON" 100% DARKEN SWITCH, AND THE VARIABLE TYPE OF "DIMMER" AS TO IF WE NEED A VISIBILITY RATIO GIVING 0%-100%) - FIRST OF ALL WE NEED TO ACHIEVE AS CLOSE AS POSSIBLE 100% VISIBILITY TO SEE THRU THIS GIVEN WINDSHIELD(s) BOTH WAYS FROM INSIDE AND OUTSIDE BUT IF I NEEDED OR WANTED INSTANT PRIVACY, I CAN FLIP A SWITCH AND/OR ADJUST (MAYBE A TYPE OF ROTORY DIMMER LIKE SWITCH)THE AMOUNT OF VISIBILITY THAT WILL CHANGE HOW MUCH CAN BE SEEN BOTH IN AND OUT.OK SO FOR BETTER UNDERSTANDING.... WHAT I WANT TO FIND/CREATE IS BASICALLY A KIND OF TINT FOR MY CAR (AND EVEN MY HOME OR OFFICE.) I GUESS MY FOCUS IS IN THE AUTOMOTIVE AREA BEING THAT WHERE I LIVE, WE HAVE ENFORCED LEGAL RESTRICTIONS BY LAW AS TO HOW MUCH LIGHT CAN BE PASS THRU THE TINT FILM AND WINDSHIELD OF A VEHICLE. HERE IN HAWAII A PASSENGER CAR HAVING MINIMAL OF 6 WINDOWS 1. FRONT WINDSHIELD2. REAR WINDSHIELD3. FRONT DRIVER DOOR WINDOW4. PASSENGER FRONT DOOR WINDOW5 & 6. PASSENGER REARS OR 1/4 WINDOWS BY LAW A FILM ADDED TO THE WINDOW CAN ONLY BE 35% DARKNESS TO THE SIDES AND REAR OF THE PASSENGER 2/3/4 DOOR VEHICLE AND ALLOWABLE 4 INCH VISOR TO THE VERY FRONT WINDSHIELD = CONSIDERED FOLLOWING THE LAW. OF COURSE PEOPLE DO GO DARKER AS IN UP TO 2.5% OR MORE COMMON IS THE 5%-20% ALL AROUND WHICH IS PRETTY DARK AND I CAN SEE WHY WE HAVE SUCH LAWS AS ESPECIALLY AT NIGHT BEING INSIDE A VEHICLE WITH 2.5%-20% ALL AROUND CAN & WILL GET DIFFICULT TO DRIVE ACCURATELY. ESPECIALLY PERTAINING TO REVERSING! LAWS IS SLIGHTLY DIFFERENT FOR 5-DOOR PASSENGER CARS, STATION WAGONS, VANS, SUV's, LIMO's AND TRUCKS. BUT WE WILL JUST STICK WITH THE MAIN 35% TO REAR AND SIDES. ITS EASIER....IN CONCLUSION, IF I OR WE CAN CREATE A TYPE OF METHOD OR DEVICE THAT CAN GIVE US THIS EFFECT OF PRIVACY AT OUR LUXURY. THE ADVANTAGES I'M AIMING FOR IS IT IS 100% LEGAL AS IN NO ONE CAN TELL RIGHT OFF THAT I HAVE TINT IT LOOKS VERY NORMAL TILL YOU HOP IN AND I TURN IT ON OR ADJUST IT THEN BEING EITHER INSIDE OR OUTSIDE THE VISIBILITY RATE CAN BE NOTICED, IT CAN BE ADJUSTED DURING MY DRIVE RUNNING ERRANDS OR IF I END UP SITTING IN TRAFFIC UNDER DIRECT HOT & BRIGHT SUNLIGHT OR EVEN JUST PARKED AT A OPEN PUBLIC PARK, BEACH, WHATEVER... I CAN GO FROM 0%-100% INSTANTLY BY A FLIP A MAIN SWITCH, THEN BE ADJUSTED LIKE A HOUSEHOLD DIMMER KNOB ALLOWING FOR PERFECT PRIVACY OR SAFETY TO VISIBILITY DRIVING WHILE TRYING TO BLOCK OUT SUNLIGHT OR UNWANTED NOSEY PEOPLE PEEKING IN WHILE PARKED. HEY IF WE WANT TO GET MORE INTO IT AND COMPLICATED YET MORE TO LUXURY WE CAN ADJUST EACH WINDOW SEPERATELY! Ex.: I WANT/NEED THE FRONT WINDOW I SAY AROUND 60% & 5 OTHER WINDOWS MAYBE 15% BECAUSE I AM SITTING IN SLOW TRAFFIC DURING THE PEAK OF THE DIRECT SUNLIGHT AT SUN DOWN AS I'M SURE ANYONE WHO DRIVES OFTEN EXPERIENCED THAT IT CAN BE VERY BLINDING AND DANGEROUS AS YOU MAY NOT BE ABLE TO SEE THE RED TRAFFIC LIGHT OR PEDESTRIAN, ETC... THEN I GUESS AS WE TRAFFIC START MOVING AND THE SUN IS NOW GONE IT IS DARK NIGHT, I CAN SAFELY ADJUST THE VISIBILITY TO ANY OR ALL WINDOWS...SEE COMPARED TO A ONE TIME DEAL AFTER HAVING A CERTAIN PERCENT TINT INSTALLED ON YOUR WINDOWS WHERE NO MATTER WHAT IT IS ALWAYS THE SAME, BUT WORSENS AS WINDOWS GET DIRTY IT GETS LESS VISIBLE TILL YOU GET CHANCE WASH THE WINDOWS OR PEEL/STRIP YOUR TINT WHICH WILL BE COSTLY & OFTEN MESSY. IN HAWAII IT IS FINED $250+COURT FEES+TAX, ETC. PER EACH WINDOW!!! MEANING IF YOU GOT LESS THAN 35% PERCENT LIGHT RATING ON THE MEASURE TOOL USED ON 5 OUT OF YOUR 6 WINDOWS = DAAYUUMNNN EXPENSIVE $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ LOSS. AND IF YOU ARE CAUGHT HAVING EVEN MORE THEN THE 4INCH VISOR AND/OR THE WHOLE FRONT WINDSHIELD ITS FEDERAL OFFENSE AND ITS NOT GOOD... I DON'T EVEN KNOW OR WANNA FIND OUT EITHER.I HOPE I WAS AS BEST AS POSSIBLE CLEAR TO WHAT I WANT TO ACHIEVE. SORRY IF IT KIND OF LONG BUT DETAILS IS VERY IMPORTANT, AND I AM OPEN MINDED TO WHATEVER ANYONE CAN PUT ON THE TABLE IN IDEAS OR CONCEPTS TO THIS. NO WORRIES, JUST SHARE WHAT YOU THINK OR WHAT CAN BE DONE. PRETTY AWESOME IDEA RIGHT???? I HOPE TO GAIN SEVERAL IDEA CONCEPTS, DESIGN OR WHATEVER THEN MAYBE WE CAN FIGURE THE MOST EFFICIENT WELL ROUNDED BENEFICIAL TO PRODUCE. ** THANX FOR YOUR TIME

Question by KrAx   |  last reply


Kodi or how much copyright protection is honoured these days...

These days when people talk about watching the latest cinema releases or TV series that are not even avialable in their country they often don't mean downloads... Sure, if you look around the web you will find a download for every movie or TV series currently out there but most people don't have the knowledge for it. Then there is the illegal aspect of things which is a true concern for people trying to do the right thing. But for quite a while now there is the Kodi media player out there. What looks to be just another video and music player is currently the number one platform for all sorts of illegal access to video or audio material from all over the world. For a while you could only download and install everything yourself, seeking info in some shady areas of the net. Now you get detailed info to every single step with screenshots and all. The biggest "joke" IMHO is that recently shops and retailers started selling Android TV boxes with Kodi already installed. This would not be a problem either if the required plugins for illegal access would be missing.... So what do you think about the legal side effects? A shops selling devices to illegally access copyright protected material and advertising it: Is this already against the law? A customer who bought the thing without realising he is doing somthing illegal with it: Is the customer really to blame? Out internet activities are an open book to the ISP and basically every law related organisation out there. So please don't pretend to be shocked if one day you get a few DMCA notices served ;)

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


My PC all of a sudden lags on all games.

Here's what happened. I got on today and started up MW2 on my PC. I had just installed a new mod, so i thought nothing of it when it lagged down to 20 FPS, perhaps, when it usually runs at 40-60 FPS. I got bored eventually and went to organize my PC, which included uninstalling a lot of old programs and making new folders. I decided to play borderlands when I was done. I noticed there was a considerable difference in frame rate from the previous day. Same thing with all of my other games, Minecraft, HL2 and all others. The only thing i did overnight was install that MW2 mod through bittorrent ( don't worry, it's legal. Alteriwnet, google it.) I've played around with my GFX card, AMD Raedeon 6540, and no dice. I've played with the clock in catalyst to no avail. I've installed game booster and boosted, but i can't get the lag to go away. The best results I've had are ending one of the 2 processes named wininitt.exe. My FPS almost got back to normal. I Think it has something to do with graphics, as nothing else is really slowed down. Also, I've tried uninstalling the MW2 mod. I played around with my windows 7 theme, too. PC specs Intel i5-2400@3.10 GHz Dual core 4 GB ram AMD Raedeon HD 6450 GFX Windows 7 Home premium -NYPA -Update The lag has been abolished. I don't know how, but it's gone. I did not touch my computer for a long time, iI guess to wait it out, but i'm not the only user of my computer, so it was used. Protips for people coming to this thread because they have the same problem, Scan for viruses Do regular HDD cleaning, i.e defragment, delete old files, registry clean. Lower GFX settings Update drivers Clean the computer's internals -NYPA

Question by NYPA   |  last reply


Tap water often quite dark and with a strong chemical smell - what to do?

I don't ask for much help but this time I am reaching the end of my knowledge and patience with landlord and water authorities.That's the story so far:When I moved in I did the usual checks and tests but of course did not pay too much attention to what comes out of my taps.After a few weeks I noticed that the drain in bathroom sink seems to rust on the enamel....Easy wipe with some cleaner fixed it but since the actual drain is made of brass I started to wonder what caused the discoloration in the first place.A bit later I had my niece here and while she had a shower I realised that I only get very little hot water from any other tap in the house.Landlord stated that no one would need hot water from two outlets at one and refused to have it checked out - WTF??Paid for plumber myself and the result was not good.The hot water system is connected "open" was his answer after half an hour of messing around.For the lame man it means that whenever there is a pressure difference between hot and cold water it will go through the hot water system.Did not fully get this so he showed me in the laundry.Open the hot water a bit and it runs out fine, open the seperate cold water tap and the hot water stops.This even worked when turning on the cold water in the kitchen.The water is able to go back into the hot water system through the outlet much easier than through the inlet side.And to top it off, the current install basically turns the hot water system into a giant bypass valve :(Paid a few bucks extra so I would get that same explanation in writing for my landlord a few days later.The next and growing problem is the chemical smell.If highly chlorinated then my aquarium test kit would show this and recommend to use a water conditioner when using tap water to top the tank up.And it does not really smell like any chlorinated water I know.Definately a chemical cleaning or sanitation smell though.The plumber could not do more than basic tests so I contacted my water supplier.To my surprise they were happy to send someone out for free.Of course they only cared about their product and all tests were limited to the tap right next to the water meter.Pressure ok.Water clearity ok.Chlorine levels next to zero."Harmful substances test" came back negative as well.It was recommended that I have the plumbing under the house inspected for the water color changes and smells/bad taste.And I had to admit that what came out of the front tap really looked and smelled fine.Work slowed me down for a while and the problem only came back to my mind when I came back from a weekend trip.Needed something to drink quickly so I filled a glass from the tap.It came out like from a rusty bucket.Definately of brownish color and the chemical smell worse then ever.Had to let the water run for about 15 minutes to get something out I dared to drink.Installed a water filter a few days later and though all is good now.Pre-filter, 0.5 micron filter and then a cartridge with activate carbon.Am a single and the unit was meant to be for a busy family.Should have been good for well over 5000 liters of water.I don't really use much in the kitchen for drinking and cooking purposes so I guesstimated I need new filters every 12 to 18 months at worst.They lasted less than 4 weeks before the water came out in drops instead or running....Cutting the fliters open revealed that both pre- and fine filter were fully blocked and brown.Provided all documents and evidence to my landlord but again was told there is no issue and the house is just old :(As a last resort I tried to get under house yesterday to check the pipes itself.Couldn't get all the way in due to all the pipes from the ducted heating system.But I found a bad mess of literally all bad plumbing skills.From the water meter a just finger thick copper pipe goes under the house.This goes into some 1/2" galvanised steel pipe and it look the main way of sealing the connection was some glue or resin around the screw fitting.The same old gal but thinner pipes go close to where the connections for water go.There the "plumber" again used screw on press fittings and glue to connect to thin copper pipes.Hot water is designed the same way, one big gal pipe straight through and then thin copper pipes connected to it.I am not a plumbing expert but I do know that copper and steel won't mix if water is involved.Assuming the hot water system is affected in the same way then this giant battery is eating away the thick gal pipes while supplying me with all the byproducts of this galvanic reaction.The landlord won't budge unless I take legal action and around here you would want to do this as a tennant.Right now I have a long garden hose from the front tap going through my kitchen window :(At least I get usable drinking and cooking water this way, my fish no loger suffer losses after the topping up the water from this hose either...But this can't go on like this.Once the gal pipes start to leak the landlord is required to act but not before that.And chances are these thick pipes will last a few more years before failing :(If i wouldn't know better then I would say at some stage the ducted heating was replaced and to have more room all but the main gal pipes were removed.All copper pipes are the flexible ones and are bend to follow the floor and wooden beams.What are my real life options to fix this water problem?A set of filters ever 4 or 6 weeks sets me back close to 120 bucks each time, hence the garden hose :(What sort of tests can I make to determine what is actually created in my water that causes the smell, taste and discoloration?By the way: a simple rust test available to check for corroded steel pipes only shows traces of rust even if the water is of a slight brownish color.Replacing the piping myself is not just far over my budget but also not allowed for a tenant.And somehow I still wonder if there is more hiding in the walls but could not get close enough to see if the opper pipes actually connect to the taps or just another piece of old steel pipe.Apart from the obvious, what are the dangers of having steel and copper pipes mixed like this for my health?

Question by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Digita Media Enthusiast/Tech Support Specialist

Job description ABOUT PAI PAI is a community rich in culture and diversity, distinguished by its high level of job satisfaction. We believe that our team members are our most valuable assets, so we recognize and reward great performance. We believe in open communication and foster an environment of creativity, loyalty and respect both for employees and clients alike. THE BIG PICTURE Do you like to get into in-depth trouble-shooting that would revolve around TiVo, DVR, or multiple types of digital video media? Do you excel in communicating with people in both a technical and non-technical way? Are you known for thinking outside the box when it comes to creative trouble-shooting solutions? If so, there’s a strong possibility you’d fit in well with an exciting new project at PAI. As Team Leader, you’ll assist in providing first-and second-level customer support for the full line of video media software products for our newest client. You and your team will interface with customers via telephone and email to provide troubleshooting, patches and/or bug fixes, version upgrades and software use tips. Ensuring the highest level of customer satisfaction is key, and will be measured by providing quality issue resolution within the established response time intervals and service level standards. DESIRED EXPERIENCE/QUALIFICATIONS • Basic professional understanding of video standards such as NTSC and PAL, frames and fields, and frame rate and basic video signals such as composite, S-video, Component, SDI and DV. • Basic understanding of broadcast digital video formats and compression such as Standard Definition, High Definition, MPEG-2, GOP Structure, Program and Transport Stream, as well as popular internet streaming, and download and desktop media formats such as Windows Media, Real Networks, QuickTime, MPEG-l, MP3, MPEG-4, etc. • Understanding of audio channels, digital audio sample size sample rates. • Understanding of non-linear video editing concepts. • Familiarity or use of a content management system or digital asset repository THE EVERYDAY VIEW • Phone, Email, and Remote Desktop support to resolve client issues, • Lead a professional team in providing world class support to leading industry customers • Verify and escalate bug reports to Engineering for resolution • Document problems/resolutions for internal/external knowledge base articles. • Effectively communicate with customers, both written and orally, to manage expectations through the trouble-shooting and issue resolution process. WE’RE LOOKING FOR SOMEONE WITH: • Excellent trouble-shooting/problem solving skills with high attention to details and good follow-through. • Excellent written and oral communication skills. • Ability to install and configure Windows Operating Systems. • Basic hardware, software, operating system and device driver troubleshooting skills. • Basic understanding of MS SQL and/or Oracle server installation and configuration. • Basic Linux/Unix installation and administration skills. • Understanding of Windows File Systems, configuring IIS, JBOSS, Apache, File permissions and Disk management. • Ability to troubleshoot basic networking and connectivity issues including TCP/IP, DHCP and DNS. • Ability to effectively work with a variety of personalities and occasional stressful situations. • Ability to multi-task under time constraints. • Able to work Evening and Late Night shifts. • Experience providing support within a Network Operations Center environment, • Digital Media or related Software or Production Service or 2+ years Digital Media Encoding/Production Experience.  To apply: 142a+8972@c1.catchthebest.com http://pai.catchthebest.com/apply/142a/8972  Cindy Law HR Manager 858-495-3525

Topic by clawpaisd   |  last reply


Cfmoto 650 - possible options to derestrict the Australian model

When it comes to motorcycles with restrictions then Australia seems to be pretty much alone in the world.Despite an abundance of bike to choose from that would fit weight/power limitations it seems to be common to go overboard here.As a result basically all popular motorbikes up the 650ccm hit the AU market in a restricted form if they don't match the limitations by default.For someone in the US just reading this might sounds like a useless concept to get people to learn how to ride a motorcycle.As a fully licensed rider and being on a budget a bike for just over half the price of a Japanase model is still tempting.And for general touring use the MT is actually quite a comfortable bike.Big downside is the impossiblity to get certain bikes in an unrestricted form.For the Cfmoto's of the older type, running the Ducati ECU it is as simple as adding a suitable fuel/ignition tuner module and removing the physical restrictions.The newer models from 2017 onwards use a more reliable Bosch ECU though.With them it is appearently possible to use BWM tuning module but with the requirement to do a full remap on a Dyno.The 2018 MT is my bike, so I will focus on this, but the gerneral things are identical on all the Cfmoto 650 models.A word on the legal things first....Outside AU none of this concerns you as your Cfmoto will come unrestricted anyways.Within AU however we are subject to several laws that make the legal modification of a so called LAMS motorcycle virtually impossible.You can even put a different exhaust or airfilter on them without risking to loose your license and get some hefty fines.As a fully licensed rider however the law often turns a blind eye on these things as they don't really matter as long as they won't affect the safety of the bike, rider or other road users.With the plated riders out for now, let's focus on the options for a fully licensed rider, shall we?There is no need for a RWC or anything if you already owned the bike in the LAMS version.But if you try, for example, to go to Vicroads and have the registration details changed to reflect that the bike is now running with it's full factory default power, or a bit more you are lost.Two reasons for this.Firstly Cfmoto did not bother to import and register for road use any unrestricted version of the 650's.Secondly the VIN number and engine number are fixed in a database for LAMS only bikes.You would need a full engeneering certificate to register the bike in any modified version that affects the power output or reduces the weight of the bike.Sets you back about 10.000 dollars and still won't garantee that Vicroads actually transform it into a legal, unrestricted bike.The police has little to no interest in what a fully licensed rider does to a bike - within the usual limits of course.And since you would not sell the bike without fully reverting it back to the LAMS state the risk of prosecution can be fully minimised:If your insurer agrees to provide full comprehensive cover once the bike is (properly) reverted to what the international models are it is down to serious accidents that might still cause trouble.For example when you cause severe injuries to someone else the bike would be checked for modifications that could have had an influence on the accident.My insurer explained it like this:If the bike is checked roadworthyness after an accident it would fail because it is no longer LAMS compliant.That would automatically default the rider to be responsible for the accident even if not at fault at all.With that it is mandatory to have all the details about the modifications listed and validated in the insurance policy!Adding a tuning module for example would mean providing a fully Dyno chart with a safety confirmation from a licensed vehicle tester.For example the confirmation would state that a power Commander with Auto Tune module was installed together with a slip on exhaust system.Bike specifications allow for the save use with said modifications based on the results of the Dyno runs.With that the rider is put back into legal territory as the insurer stands for the roadworthyness of the modifications.It certainly helps to just stick with the default options and to provide the Cfmoto cert copy from the same international version of the bike.A plated rider should never attempt any of this as it still means there is no way to get away - legally and financially!Possible tuning options for the LAMS versions:Adding one the usualy tuning modules is not only pain but also costly if done properly.Being a LAMS bike you will have a hard finding a reputable shop to install a tuning module for you.Doing it yourself can be tricky, especially if you consider that the default wire colors are often different on the bike.Takes a few hours to check the wiring diagram, follow and measure connections and then to finally risk starting the bike....It works though if you know what you doing.Biggest downside is that you won't find any ready to go maps that you can use.And trust me trying to modify fuel or ignition maps yourself is not for the faint of heart and only an option if you a) know what you are doing and b) have the tools for it.There is a good chance the bike actually runs worse than without the module.Now the obvious solution would be to go for some Dyno runs and to have it all setup properly.Again, with a LAMS bike you will have a hard time finding a licensed and reputable shop to take your bike in.If you find one that does it anyway than it really is best to go for the full package and to suck the costs up.Let them supply the required modules, sensors and all, deal with the airbox and throttle limiter.Then have the usual 3-4 Dyno runs to get the mapping done properly.This approached worked perfectly fine for the older bikes using the Ducati ECU.The new models with the Bosch ECU might still struggle to accept the tuning changes.Reason for this is the checking of literally all sensor informations.Means the tuning module must cater for this and not just fool the O2 and TPS sensor readings.Just removing the throttle limiter and airbox restrictions will cause the bike to run too hot very quickly and also puts your ECU into a lean default mode once you see ECU errors flashing on the dash.Real tuning options that won't have a chance to harm the engine:With all models available internationally and without any restrictions it is relatively easy to find a wrecker in the US, EU or even Asia to supply parts from crashed bikes or those confiscated for destruction by dismantling them.If you are a fully licensed rider and after a bargain or love your first bike so much that you want to keep it once the plates are gone:Organise the ECU, airbox and throttle body from any part of the world except Australia.Sometimes you even find them on Ebay so pay attention to the sellers home country (some AU sellers go international and would then just get the same what is already in your bike ;) )!!Why not just the ECU you ask?Our airbox has added restrictors, just removing is not the best option as they are also responsible for causing required turbulences in the airflow.A straight through or even pot filter option would again require ECU tuning.As said, talking stock here...The throttle body might not be required to get the full power the bike is intended for but you never know for sure.If in doubt pay a few bucks more and have the injectors and sensors included as well ;)But why would I want to pay for a throttle body if it is not 100% certain I would require it?It would'n t have the screw hole for the throttle limiter ;)This tiny detail can be of importance if you go the full lenght, more on that later.With those three components (or two if you want to go without the throttle body) you have a stock international version of the 650.Makes it relatively easy to convince your insurer that the bike is safe to use in this configuration.Adding just a slip on is no problem either as the normal ECU runs quite rich in the higher RPM's anyway and the new exhaust would not make too much mess here.But adding a less restrictive airfilter will need Dyno tuning.Going the full length, especially interesting if you buy a second hand Cfmoto.It will take you a lot of Emails and some overseas phone calls but it is possible to find a wrecker that can sell you the registration plates for the frame of the bike - legally if said wrecker is allowed to sell frame number for rebuilds.Adding this plate to your order means your second hand bike can be deregistered, sadly this means unless you pay extra you need to hand in the numberplates as well.No big deal however if the bike comes without numberplates anyway.Once you installed all parts and replaced the frame ID plate you take the bike for normal RWC check and get your green slip.With that you go and ask to register your bike with new (or your old) numberplates.The Vin will not show up in their database and a red flag comes up, prompting some questions from the offcial behind the counter.The bike you know have is an imported model you got for cheap when you saw it for sale in some carpark with a blown engine.As the actual engines are identical you replaced the blown engine with one from an AU bike that crashed and was written off.In return you now pay a slightly higher than usual transfer fee but get the bike registered as he international model without LAMS restrictions.Even the engine showing up as a LAMS engine is of no concers here as there is no legal reason to not allow the use of a lower powered engine in a motorcycle.You insurance polcy will also go up a few bucks but that is not really worth crying about now anymore.Once you go out with your numberplates you can enjoy a legally derestricted (imported) Cfmoto.Ok, I got it an I say I am a fully licences rider that does not care too much and wants to go as cheap as possible...A brand new ECU from China sets you back about $400AU.Downside is that you are never 100% certain the mapping will fit what is installed on your bike.There might be differences for the US or EU market, not so much though for Asia - so ask for what market region the ECU is intendet and prefer the Asia market here.The airbox limiters should be safe to remove but you might have to make simple plates up to install so the air turbulences are within specs - you will notice if the bike runs really crappy in the high revs and struggles to provide power to the wheel...Unless Cfmoto actually include more limitations in or around the throttle body going with stock should be fine - flashing ECU error will tell you if not.Postage from China can be a pain, not so much for time it takes but for the money charged to use proper and trusted courier services.Up to $100 just for postage is not uncommon but also means the parts are your within a week or 10 days most.Some provide cheap flat rates but both have the risk of being asked to pay import duties if held by AU costoms.Going second hand from some wrecker outside AU can be slightly cheaper for the ECU but again postage can a pain on the pocket.The obvious downside is that the bike with such a simple and direct mod would be still a LAMS bike and if checked make it illegal to use with all the corresponding consequences for the rider - even if fully licensed, please check the above insurance part again if you must.If done properly and maybe even with a slip on: what gains are we talking about in actual figures on the wheel?To be honest not really that much at all, the bike is just too heavy.But the response will improve noticable!The bike pulls out of corners with ease now and no longer requires you shift through the gears with a screaming engine.Imagine you have a small, 4-cylinder car and went on a long holiday trip with your heavy camping trailer always attached.Holidays are over, you unhook the camper and go for a quick run to the shops for supplies.It is that wow feeling that you get when you take off with the weight gone...The gears run higher with a more evenly distributed power instead of just a narrow window of RPM's with enough power to pull away.The KW and RPM values are available on the Cfmoto homepages.What about top speed?I managed to get to a full 110km/h !! ;)For anything above that ask your local Dyno please or pay for a day on the track.What if the police gets me and makes trouble because of the modifications?A well trained officer in a bad mood will always be your nightmare.So I won't go into the troubles if you still need plates or just got your full license a few days ago...You are allowed to ride any road legal motorcycle, no matter the power ratings.However, a really pesky cop wanting to go by the full book on you will use the computer to check your bike and registration details.And if he knows the most obvious non-legal mods to LAMS bikes, like the shiny exhaust you will need a lift home.Chances are though that a clean driving record and having your full license for a few years indicates that you actually know how to handle your bike properly.That is the point where your honesty and details with the insurance company matter.Preferably with you having a copy of your policy with you when riding the bike.With that you can always argue the modifications are documented and approved by your insurer and corresponding vehicle tester.Makes it then only a minor offence for not being LAMS conform.The paperwork to fight you on what your insurer singed off for is just not worth it with a possible drunk driver getting past while you argue....Legally they can still book you or even take the bike but do they ever bother to take those Harleys or street racers with screaming exhausts you hear from miles away before you even see the bike? ;)As said, it comes down to a LAMS offense that is fully covered by your insurer and with that not really worth making a big fuzz about.If you got pulled over for speeding or other offenses the story will be different though as it then could be argued you made these modifications with the INTENT of illegal activities - like speeding or pulling stunts that are not allowed on public roads.Here you insurer can refuse the cover the same way they would for the same offences on a fully legally unrestricted bike.Is it worth taking the risk?No, it is not!If you are after a bike with good handling and power you would not ride a Cfmoto...As a true LAMS bike the resale value is actually quite good if the bike is kept in good condition.Modified you will have a hard time selling it as no learner would take the risk - a working brain assumed here.For a keeper once fully licensed or someone on a budget it can be quite tempting.After all, it leaves a nagging feeling if have a full license and sit on a restricted bike....You always have to explain what you ride and why anyway every time you pull over where chatty bikers are around.Selling the bike in good condition and maybe together with the extras you got over the years might be enough to justify the extra for a second hand bike from Asia, Italy or Austria and give you more leasure and pleasure in the long run.Doing it properly and in the most legal way costs quite a few bucks.If you add this to the current asking price of around 7500 ride away will add at least another $1500.Depending on the exhaust system even more.If you require proper identification and tracing of things like VIN plates it can be clse to $2000.At this point you already see really only makes sense it is a cheap second hand bike, whicj makes the entire approach a bit questionable anyway.With now close to $10.000 for a new bike the difference to a well known brand with maybe a better reputation is not that big anymore.The bike would already be unrestricted and making road legal modification wouldn't interest anyone.Not to mention of course the warranty issues as Cfmoto won't honor any of it if you modify new LAMS bike!Now add the possible costs for repairs or parts that would otherwise be free and free of labour costs and the bargain becomes very expensive before the warranty period is over.There will be the point where you ask yourself why did you bother in the first place....Warranty....Once modded the factory warranty is void so to say.Problem here is that the law is intentionally unclear on the reasons and options applicable here.As the bike would (without exhaust mod) be just like any international model the law states the warranty must be granted.However, Cfmoto has the right to refuse it anyway based on the exclusions required by law to prevent non-LAMS conform bikes from getting back on the road.A blown engine with a proper service history would be no big deal without this.The right to refuse a free warranty replacement for covered parts if the bike was not serviced by a licensed dealer is something car manufacturers already failed with.Cfmoto however will argue that their terms and conditions always superseed any Australian laws or regulations unless it was legally shown that one or more sections are actually invalid in Australia.This includes any evident or suspected tampering with the LAMS restrictions.If in doubt an ECU reading would indicate the impossible throttle positions used and the different ECU.Means even once the warranty is over you can't really take your bike to your dealer for a service or just a check without risking troubles.Some say this is still not enough to deter restricted drivers, I say that any fully licensed rider should have the right to enjoy his bike without LAMS restrictions.But if in doubt Cfmoto is always right, no matter how they argue.Last words from the wise camel....If you are fully licensed it is entirely your choice what you do with your bike and how you deal with - or interprete possible legal issues.Anyone required to display plates should just not think about modding the bike, it is not worth the risk.Although not really a big deal for an experienced rider, the added power and better response can cause a bad judgement.You might have been happy to open her up fully around your favourite hiarpin bend but now it could mean you loose traction even if don't try to break your LAMS approved speed record.Especially when things get a bit slippery and unexpected it can be difficult to prevent the heavy beast from going down.Never underestimate what you can't see and react to in time!Never overestimate your skills or the bikes real capabilities in terms of handling and grip!Once you are fully used to the different response you are fine, until then it is better to play it safe instead of ending up to be very, very sorry....

Topic by Downunder35m 


Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007 Hosted at NASA* Ames Research Center - SUBMISSIONS DEADLINE EXTENDED TO MARCH 9

Please note that our email server was down this past week so we are extending the deadline for Art Installations until Friday, March 9, 2007. If your submission bounced please resubmit it again by emailing submissions@yurisnightames.netWe will contact all those submitting within a week of the submission deadline.Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007 Sofia Hanger 211, NASA Ames Research Center*, Moffett Field, CAhttp://www.yurisnightames.netFriday, April 13th, 20076:30 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. - VIP Event Hosted by Keynote speaker, Anousheh Ansari . The first privately-funded female space explorer!10:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m. - 3,2,1, Lift Off!, An all-night collective experience toward the Overview Effect. Art Installations and Science and Technology DemonstrationsMusic Line UpPlaid ( Warp Records, UK) Luke Vibert ( Ninja Tune, Warp Records, UK), Telefon Tel Aviv (Hefty Records, USA)Interactive Experiences and Second Life KiosksSponsors List To Be Announced Shortly Affiliate / Collaborating Organizations (Partial List)4c design studios - NASA* - Nexus - Space Generation Advisory Council - Yuri's Night - Zero Gravity Arts Consortium Yuri's Night World Space Parties celebrate humanity's first venture into space (by Russian Cosmonaut Yuri Gagarin). The event connects diverse communities to pay tribute to our shared global heritage in space exploration. Through one long simultaneous celebration Yuri's Night bridges national, cultural, generational and social barriers to ignite excitement about what is new on the horizon in space exploration and to remind us of how much more humanity is capable of. Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007 is just one of many worldwide parties sharing the same mission.How to ApplyPlease submit the following by Friday March 9, 2007:-Artist name, address, phone, email and title of artwork.-Philosophical Statement, as related to the Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007 Theme (See Below)-Documentation of work: image, video, and/or sound files -Space requirements and special needs-Current state of completion-Required crew-Power requirements-Time to set upYuri's Night Bay Area 2007 will be held on Friday, April 13th in the Sofia Hangar 211 and on the adjoining tarmac at NASA Ames Research Center*, with several thousand people attending. The sizeable combined indoor and outdoor space lends itself to large-scale installations. We are looking for art installations, interactive works, science and technology demonstrations, video, sound works, light works, and large scale sculpture. Geodesic domes will be installed on the tarmac to showcase smaller and more intimate works. Other activities at the event will include:- Music from world-renown international talent (coming from the UK and beyond) and video artists.- A sundown keynote speech by Anousheh Ansari, the first female private space tourist (recently returning from a 10 day stay on the International Space Station) and the woman who is largely responsible for making the Ansari X PRIZE project possible- An environmental "greening of space" sub-theme, manifested through the use of environmentally friendly biodiesel and vegetable oil-fueled power, compostable plates and utensils, and tree planting in the name of our guests to balance out carbon emissions.Please give special consideration to the following:Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007 is a celebration of humanity with a focus on space and technology, art and performance while honoring the historical nature of the space and the spirit of the people who once worked in and still inhabit the AMES Sofia Hanger 211, in which our event is hosted. Within the context of NASA AMES Research Center* we feel our contemporary relationship to space and sense the incredible possibilities for the future of human and robotic space exploration.Simultaneously, this place exudes a feeling of another time, a time of science fiction fantasy and early space exploration and its potential for fulfillment, some ideas made real, some not: rocket ships of the past, an International Space Station of the present and airships of the future, flying cars, and time machines, terraforming, robots, and settlements on other planets. We will share an interpretive journey into outer space starting with the arrival of 'space cadets' at NASA * Ames's Yuri's Night Spaceport who, after a communal 3-2-1countdown to LIFTOFF! will jettison into a magical journey through time and space, as we discover new communities, interactive art installations, science and technology demonstrations, performances and space art interwoven with simultaneous influences from the past, present and future educating us to new possibilities socially, ecologically and technologically. We will reach the zenith of our journey as we sense 'The Overview Effect', an unexpected gift given to many astronauts who travel into space when they gain a new profound insight and understanding of our planet Earth, when confronted with the presence of our world as seen from the distance of space. The results of this experience can reinforce personal sensitivity to environmental conservation and the greening of space and 'The Overview Effect' has the capacity to transform all patterns of human existence and evolution toward greater potentials in human diversity and creativity. With all 'space cadets' having experienced changed perceptions of space, time, sound, and weight all we will have the potential to transform the evolution of humanity as they experience a new dawn on planet Earth.In creating Yuri's Night together, we create a new narrative, a new science fiction for the future and given the spirit of Yuri's Night, our night, our dance is a dance of inspiration, joy and celebration!Special notices:Unfortunately, despite our desire to do so, we cannot accomodate traditional media in the form of paintings, drawings, or prints. No fire, explosives, or works that are potentially damaging to property or persons.Send application or questions to:submissions@yurisnightames.netMore information about Yuri's Night Bay Area 2007: http://www.yurisnightames.netGeneral information about Yuri's Night:http://www.yurisnight.net/2007/*References to NASA Ames shall not be construed as official NASA approval or endorsement of any non-Governmental or commercial entity or activity pending final legal approvals.

Topic by lannanh 


Mac VS PC?

I'm posting this to share my experience and opinion of Mac's VS PC's. I welcome you to read and share your story. For many years I was a PC. I believed whole-heartedly that I needed Windows, and I needed Microsoft. Then I bought my last laptop. It wasn't cheap. I used it everyday for work and therefore it was important that it ran efficiently. Like many of you, I suffered from "blue screens" and on occasion a "crash". There were viruses and trojans and attacks from all places, you'd think I was engaged in war! Then the proverbial "last straw" occurred. I needed to upgrade into some new software, and I received a simple message that I needed to also upgrade the Windows Service Pack. Hmmm.... Seemed easy enough. (Been there. Done that.) So, off I went to download the SP (from a reputable source) and then "Success!"... I got a message that said "Successfully installed. Windows must restart to complete process". Hmmm... Ok... I pressed through the process to restart my machine and there it began.... The long and never ending cycle had started! My laptop shut down, started to boot and then upon seeing the (dare I say it?) Vista Start Up Screen, my laptop promptly repeated itself and began to reboot... o_0 ??? This went on for sometime... *anger growing*... NOTHING I did would stop this, or should I say NOTHING would START my laptop. It was forever entangled into a mysterious vortex of computer "Neverland". I was NOT impressed. I had to borrow another computer to do some research and found very little at the time to explain this conundrum. Then I tried Microsoft. I used their "so-called" online customer service department and was put in touch with someone who was younger than my oldest pair of shoes. He also couldn't speak English very well, so without being incredibly rude I requested another agent. Upon conversing with agent #2, I knew I was in trouble... (Was Agent #2 related to Agent #1???) ... o_0 ??? *shakes head* I will give credit to Agent #2. He was nice. He tried his hardest to suggest everything under the sun, but alas, we both concluded it was hopeless. The final bluescreen error number confirmed the toe tag on my machine. So I was left with having to reinstall the entire system and lose EVERYTHING on my laptop. *fuming mad now* Then it occurred to me that "Windon'ts" (as I affectionately call them now), opted not to provide me with necessary disks to reinstall their OS during my purchase. It seems that the cost of a CD has become so expensive for Microsoft that they are forced to leave it up to the consumer to fend for themselves. Clearly, they are suffering financially, No? When I rationalized this logic with Agent #2, he suggested that I purchase Windows 7 as it had just come out and was much better than Vista (No kidding.... *rolls eyes*). But why? Why prey-tell should I have to purchase anything? My laptop was only 14 months old (conveniently out of warranty) and may as well have been a pre-historic dinosaur as far as Agent #2 was concerned. So where did me and Agent #2 leave off? He suggested I "borrow" an installation disk from someone and reinstall windows vista and start over... *tics forming now...* He assured me that my "service call to Microsoft" would remain as "unsolved". (Oh btw, at this point we were regulars on the telephone). So my ONE LAST QUESTION to him was: "What assurance do I have, after reinstalling Vista and then the SP I need, that this problem won't just start again?" - His reply was, "Well, it shouldn't"... Straw officially broken. Now we come to my life with my new MacBook. Clearly much more expensive than a Windon'ts PC, but wait... Is it? Let's review. There are more "open-source apps" available to a Mac (meaning you get them for free), and in most cases I find they are the same if not better than the paid for MS version. The critical applications that I use everyday for work, installed fine and without issue. I also received "DISKS" from Apple. Apparently they can afford to give customers what they pay for.... Upon opening the box, I was running my new laptop within 5 minutes. Easy Peasy... The time alone that I save from all that aggravation is money in the bank. Do I miss anything? Yes, actually I do (or maybe I don't). What I miss out on are bluescreens, viruses, trojans, attacks, intrusions, crashes and all the other fun stuff I got to know and expect with a PC. So why tell all of you about this now? Well yesterday I noticed that the bottom of my MacBook had a slight bulge in the case. *Heart skipped a beat*. Then after some mild panic, with visions of my last ordeal swirling in my head, I went online in search of why, and found the answer within 5 minutes. Apparently this was something Apple became aware of and had a simple solution. Fill out a contact information form along with my serial number and I got a confirmation message. Not only would I receive an ENTIRELY NEW bottom to my MacBook, I would receive a full set of screws AND a screwdriver!!! All FREE OF CHARGE. NO SHIPPING FEES. COST ME NOTHING!!! *shocked* Now I was beaming. *ear to ear grin* I felt validated for my departure from PC. Then in some kind of absurd customer service universe, I received a knock at the door. My replacement parts had arrived!!! - Less than 24 hours later... *mouth gaping and eyes wide* So I thank you for reading this. I encourage you to share your opinions. If you don't know who I am. I am canucksgirl. I'm a Mac. Not a PC.

Topic by canucksgirl   |  last reply


Be aware of the new LED light-door knocking scam!

It might just be a local thing for now here in AU but history shows a good scam often is picked up globally...The topic of the scam is a FREE upgrade of your old incandescent lights to modern and cost efficient LED lights.Down here we have these government sponsored and energy related initiatives for home owners and landlords on a more or less regular base.Sometimes it is solar cells, then solar hot water systems or better insulation, now we again have LED lights as last time not everyone took the offer.The offical way to benefit is to apply for it, usually a quick online process.After that a certified guy or girl makes an appointment and replaces the number of lights you specified.But to address more people and get around landlords door knockers are also used.These offcial guys provide you with some flyers highlighting the program, details about the process and so on.And if you are interested sign you up on a list for your replacement.It means you don't sign anything, you just confirm your ID and end on a list.A a week or two later you see a bunch of students running with little ladders and boxes of lightbulbs knocking on doors.So far so good and sometimes you even get older people replacing the bulbs for free.You can quite easy identify the official guys down here as the display ID tags with picture and those tags not just look professional but also contain all vital info and signs that correspond to the official government initiative.The scammers jumping on the money train however show a slightly different approach.Usually students with good language and promotional skills come in a nice dress and knock on your door.They come with a more less well made copy of the government flyer, usually not in the right format and not on nice, glossy paper.They also usually only show you a badge after you ask then to but won't follow the official code and have it displayed on the dress.Said badge, in my case, was of bad quality and was just an ink jet print laminated in bulk and cut straight, not even with the standard rounded edges...I played along anyway and showed interest, so I was asked if it is ok to have a quick look to check how many lights are required.Keep in mind here that the official guys won't need that info - they take this info by the actual amount of lights the students replace later on!I told the guy I only need 6 lights as the rest was already replaced by myself.Needless to say he insisted stating that he needs to confrim the amount as a requirement for the free replacment because the installer needs to know how many light are required...You would expect now to see someone walking through your house with the head tilted to the ceiling....2 minutes, maybe three...It took almost 10 minutes, for each light he filled a bit out on his form.Like lvining room, 3 lights, ladder required, toilet, one light, cover needs to be removed.....This time was used to get an impression of what is visibly available in the rooms...Once done the nice guy wanted me to sign his now filled out form and asked for my name so he can put it in the form.Don't know why I felt this urgent need but I asked nicely if I could actually have a quick read of the form before I sign.Reluctantly he agreed and handed my the form.What I spotted right away was that it was two pages that were not connected in any way, like with a stapler, not numbered either.The first page had all the details of my lights and requirements plus some not really clear looking government inignias.Like what you would end up with if you embed in a word document from a web page.Low quality instead of coming from a proper and official print shop.Page two then only needed my name, address and signature under the long list of fineprints.I did not even have to read it all to know it indeed is a bdly made scam.The FREE LED lights are still free, but each one comes with an installation fee of $35.This fee covers checking the fittings and light switches and if required their replacement at the costs of the occupant plus of course the disposal of the old lights.The offcial cooling off period for this type of contract is honored though.Well, that is until you read it all and double check the first page.14 days are granted for this officially and in the contract I was supposed to sign.With the exception that I automatically agree to have the replacement done at the convinience of the installer.Also added was a clause that states the contract is binding and the payment is required within 7 days once the lights are replaced.Page 1 though already had next Friday listed for the replacements of my lights....Means my cooling off period is reduced to 7 days....To cancel the contract I would have to send it in writing and with confirmation.And the arrival needs to be confirmed at least 48 hours prior to the installation date so the installer can shedule accordingly.Basically means I have to send this cancellation letter the same day I sign the contract to have any chance at all to avoid paying at least $35 per LED light.Needless to say I refused to provide my name and did not sign despite all well meant attempts to convince me otherwise.And although I can neither deny nor confirm to have made a specific phone call, some cop car picked the guy up shortly after when he was knocking on another door further down the street...Be aware if some really nice guy or girl offers you a FREE service after you opened your door!Be suspicious if they "require" entry to confirm or check certain things!It is quite possible this requirement is only to check for valuables!Do the smart thing and take what they offer in paperwork and ask them to come back a few days later so you can have a good read.Don't let them pressure you in any way!!!If it is a free service then you don't need to rush things and any official door knocker will be happy to give you the parperwork and tell you if you want to have it done you can simple use the details on the info material and register yourself online.And if you go that route you will see an official government portal for it.Even if a scammer goes as far as creating a website for the scam it won't provide you any of the standards you expect from your government.If you really decide to sign something on the spot or to provide personal details then at least read all the fineprints and everything else on all the documents!That means unless you know legal talk that you should have someone check it for you!

Topic by Downunder35m 


Tracking down the speed problems on a laptop.

I've copied the conversation here so we could remove the information from the original instructable's comments.  I figure this would also be of some interest to other forum viewers who may have similar problems, or may be able to chip in. The long and short of it is, 92033 (Ed) has a refurbished laptop that takes literal hours to run a YouTube video on.  I suspect that it's due to a bottleneck with his internet connection.  Here's the conversation thus far: ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033 (Ed): Thank you kindly for your prompt reply...appreciate it very much. I came across this site by accident in searching for something else and now I'm 'hooked' on it. :) So far I've read over 400 archived posts (whew)...as well as looking at the videos. The videos are somewhat of a problem because this new laptop only has 512 mg memory...LOOOOOng time to load. For example...to watch a SLOW 5-minute You Tube video takes 5-1/2 HOURS to load...keeps showing a couple words at a time...need to get two new memory chips to upgrade to 2gb. Thanks again...Take care. ---------------------------------------------------------------- eddems: I think you're basic download speed is killing ya, not the laptop. check you're speed at Internetfrog.com, if you see the link near the bottom for the old test, run it, I like it's graph of upload and download speed much better. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much. I'll check it out. I ordered a 1gb SDRAM Memory chip which just arrived yesterday. Hope this speeds things up a bit. ---------------------------------------------------------------- harley_rly: i hear u man, my computer is hopped up, but i live out in the sticks and have dialup...i only get 24kbps at most :( ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Maybe there's hope for 'us' yet. :-) I phoned Tiger Direct to see cost of an upgrading memory chip to go from 512mg to 1-1/2gb. The guy I talked to suggested I get "PC TUNEUP 2.0" which bypasses the Windows Operating System (I'm using Windows XP Pro) and speeds up the system. I gave it a try and ordered the CD (cost $39.98 - $44.77 postpaid). It hasn't arrived yet but will let you know if it helps as he claims it will. He said that if I just ordered a 1gb memory chip my system wouldn't notice much improvement as it is, but this CD should do the trick. THEN...when I DO order the Memory chip(s) to get total of 2gb my system should zip through like a rocket with the CD just ordered. I'll let you know when I get the CD and about the results. Just hope I haven't thrown forty-five bucks to the wind. Thanks for the contact...appreciate hearing from you. TAKE CARE. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: PC Tune-Up "bypasses the Windows Operating System?" This guy fed you a load of crap. (I work on computers for a living.) PC Tune-Up does nothing more than clean up registries, defragment harddrives (if your OS even needs it, some don't) and keeps drivers up to date (which you could do manually.) That guy's an idiot, or just a liar. Could be both. Unless you were buying PC Tuneup 2.0 from Tiger Direct, in which case we can add "sleazy salesman" to that. What are the specs of the laptop? Go to Start/Run and type in DXDIAG. This will give you a quick snapshot of the specs. Specifically, I'm curious as to the processor speed/type. For a 5 1/2 hour "load" you're more likely looking at network slowdown issues (although 512 megs for XP is WAYYYY too little. I HATE when they put PCs together like that). The RAM upgrade will show significant speed increases, but no improvement with YouTube videos or other downloads. I'm glad to see you are returning the CD. ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Thanks much for your input...appreciate it very much. I checked the DXDIAG as you recommended. Here's the info on it: IBM ThinPad Laptop PC. Model # 23738TU. Intel Premium M 1.70GHZ. 512mb SDRAM Memory chip.Page File- 351mb used,513 mb available. Direct Version-Directx 9.00 (4.09.0000.0904). 512 mb SDRAM-Actual 212 Ram. AVAST Anti-Virus. MS Windows XP-PRO.. Dialup Speed-40kbps. PC2700 SDRAM 512mb Memory Chip installed. I ordered 1bb memory chip which arrived yesterday. Now I have to figure out HOW to remove the bottom of this laptop to install it...lotta small screws on it. :-) Oh, total memory shows 32mb. I don't know if this means much to you. I note your comment that the added RAM memory WONT (?) speed up loading YouTube videos? Is that correct? If so, why not? Thanks again. Take care. ~ ED ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: :) At the risk of boring too many people, here's how memory in a PC works: You have two kinds of memory: RAM, and Hard Drive (technically there's three, as there's also onboard video RAM on video cards, but this is primarily used for 3D video game textures, so can be mostly ignored.) Your harddrive's read/write speed is determined by the type of harddrive it is (most are SATA now) and the rotation speed (most are 7200 RPM, though the specs for your system say yours is only 5400 RPM, but there are 10, 15, and even 20K rpm models out there that are exponentially more expensive.) No matter what, harddrive memory will always be degrees slower than RAM. RAM on the other hand is a small chunk of memory that is "temporary" memory, but very fast. Its speed is determined by the type of RAM (DDR2 being the current common one for notebooks, though DDR3 is available with some motherboards (you can ignore this, though, as you can only handle 2 gigs max of DDR with your system). The motherboard will determine the limits for the RAM that can be installed.) When running *ANYTHING* on your computer, and I mean ANYTHING, it must first be loaded into RAM to be accessed by the CPU. The computer doesn't directly access the harddrive. So this means when your operating system is loaded (Windows XP) the entirety of all running processes for the OS have to be loaded into RAM. Now, Microsoft claims that Windows XP only requires a minimum of 64 megs of RAM, but recommends 128 megs. I challenge you to find me a Windows XP system that only uses 128 megs out of the box. It's not atypical for an XP system to chew through all 512 megs of your RAM, leaving no RAM available for other applications. (Interestingly, the default setup for your laptop is only 256 megs of RAM, yet yours is reporting 512.) What happens when there's no RAM left? The system has to then start trading things into what is called "Virtual Memory." VM is nothing more than a file on the harddrive that will temporarily hold information that SHOULD be in RAM, so the RAM can load more info. For instance, say you have a process that's using RAM, but you want to watch your YouTube video. As the video is ready to play, the system will take the other process's data that's in RAM, write it to the harddrive, load your video into RAM in its place, play a portion of it, write the video to the harddrive, load the data for the process to RAM, let it run for a split second (so it doesn't lock up), write it back to the harddrive, load your video into RAM and play a short clip, etc. etc. etc. The result of low RAM on your system is that applications will open slowly (seconds or minutes, instead of instantly or a few seconds) and they will seem slow to respond, will stutter, etc. With enough RAM, your system can freely open as much as it needs into RAM, and ignore the virtual memory and all the slowdowns that it causes. Now, all of this being said, NO lack of RAM will cause a streaming video to take 5 1/2 hours to play. This is 100% going to be related to your downspeed. (Go to www.speedtest.net and post your results.) RAM slowdowns tend to be most noticeable when shutting down, or starting up your computer, apps will open a little more slowly, they will be slower to respond to button clicks, and video will be very choppy. Anything that is causing a YouTube video to take HOURS will be due to the system simply waiting to get the video in the first place. RAM wouldn't slow down the receiving of the video, but it would cause the video to play weird once it's downloaded. So, all this being said, here's the summary: Your system has a 1.7 Ghz processor, and your RAM is most likely 333 Mhz DDR. If you bump your memory up to a gig, you should see a pretty significant improvement in that your computer will, overall, just "feel" faster. It'll be more responsive, and working with large documents will be many, many times faster. This won't, however, affect your YouTube experience (unless you were getting jittery video often, not the same as "buffering" video.) If you see "buffering" for a long time, your internet connection is your bottleneck. A test on www.SpeedTest.net will likely confirm this. However, if you get decent numbers on SpeedTest, then we could have something more sinister going on, though I suspect you'll find your numbers well below the 1 mbps rate. This brings us to actually changing the RAM. I've been out of the PC hardware realm (professional programmer now) for a few years, and was unable to find a manual for your particular model. However, if memory serves, this image should be a fairly accurate representation of the underside of your system: http://www.javin-inc.com/temp/thinkpad.JPG Don't quote me, but I BELIEVE the red circle will indicate the only screw you will need to remove to access the RAM. There should also be a small clip holding the RAM in place that you'll want to pinch to get the RAM out, and make sure that the new RAM snaps into place. (Sometimes you'll have additional empty RAM beds, and you can just put your RAM in there and end up with 1.5 gigs, but I suspect you'll have two 256 gig chips in there.) ---------------------------------------------------------------- 92033: Phew. Thanks again for your most indepth educational lesson. I appreciate all your help more than you realize. I attempted to answer this last night, typing in more than twice the amount of text as your to me, then suddenly realized there was a glitch and I was on another page...lost it all into the ionisphere. :-( Rather than try to retype all I wrote, I shut 'r down and went to sleep. Now I'm trying to recall all I wrote last night but failed to get mailed. I'm not a traditional typist, rather a one-finger bloke so you can understand the frustration there. I do, however, type at a reasonably good speed. With that said, let's continue. I went to search for Configuration of this IBM Laptop ThinkPad 23738TU and am copy and pasting it here. It's relevant to what I have to say...here it is: ********************************************************************************** Overview Specs Features Includes Warranty Supplies IBM ThinkPad T42 2373 Specifications Part # 23738TU Key Specifications IBM ThinkPAD T42 2373 Manufacturer IBM Manufacturer Part # 23738TU Processor Type Intel Pentium M 735 1.7 GHz Data Bus Speed 400 MHz Cache Memory Type L2 cache Installed Size 2 MB RAM Installed Size 256 MB Technology DDR SDRAM Memory Speed 333 MHz System Type Notebook Storage Hard Drive 40 GB, 5400 rpm Storage Controller Type IDE Optical Storage Type DVD ROM Read Speed 24x (CD) / 8x (DVD) Display Type 14.1" TFT active matrix Graphics Processor / Vendor ATI MOBILITY RADEON 7500 Video Memory 32 MB Max. Resolution 1024 x 768 Audio Output Type Sound card Audio Codec AD1981B Compliant Standards DirectSound, AC '97, SoundMAX Telecom Modem Fax / modem Max. Transfer Rate 56 Kbps Protocols & Specifications ITU V.90 Networking Networking Network adapter Data Link Protocol Ethernet, Fast Ethernet, Gigabit Ethernet Expansion Expansion Slots Total 1 x front accessible Expansion Slots Total 2 ( 1 ) x memory 1 ( 1 ) x CardBus - type II Interfaces 1 x docking / port replicator, 240 pin docking 2 x Hi Speed USB, 4 pin USB Type A 1 x parallel, IEEE 1284 (EPP/ECP), 25 pin D Sub (DB25) 1 x display / video, VGA, 15 pin HD D Sub (HD 15) 1 x infrared, IrDA 1 x modem, phone line, RJ11 1 x network, Ethernet 10BaseT/100BaseTX, RJ45 1 x display / video, S video output, 4 pin mini DIN 1 x microphone, input, mini phone mono 3.5 mm 1 x headphones, output, mini phone stereo 3.5 mm Miscellaneous Features Locking device keyhole (cable lock), administrator password, hard drive password, power-on password, asset ID, IBM Embedded Security Subsystem 2.0 Compliant Standards ACPI 2.0, ACPI 1.0b, FCC Class B certified, CE, MPR II, UL, BSMI, cUL, NOM, VCCI-II Operating System Microsoft Windows XP Professional Software Included Adobe Acrobat Reader, PC Doctor, IBM Rapid Restore Ultra, IBM Update Connector, InterVideo WinDVD, IBM Access Connections, IBM Access Support, Access IBM,(OEM) Battery Technology lithium ion Capacity 4400 mAh Average Run Time 5 hour(s) Installed Qty 1 Ambient Temperature Min Operating Temperature 50 °F Max Operating Temperature 90 °F Humidity Range Operating 8 - 80% Dimensions (W x D x H) Unit 12.2 in x 10 in x 1.1 in Weight Unit 4.9 lbs Warranty 3 Years Limited Warranty on parts and labor. IBM 23738TU Summary ********************************************************************************* NOTE...I DON'T BELIEVE THIS...I JUST TYPED FORTY MINUTES REPLY HERE and it instantly scrolled up like speed of lightning and disappeared like last night. I'll ATTEMP to try again later. So please don't reply yet as you need to read my discoveries in changing the RAM chip. Meanwhile, thanks again...take care. ~ ED ******************************************************************************* TRY #3...I'm Back :-) Your diagram showing where the RAM chip is located was right on. Thanks. Here's my DISCOVERY :-( The RAM chip installed was NOT a 512mg...but only a 256mg chip. The ads ans specs say it's a 512mg...NOT SO. I was lied to by either the manufacturer or refurbishing company who removed the original 512 chip and reinstalled a 256 chip. I was lied to by the Tiger Direct guy on the phone. There are NOT two chip slots...only one. So I now have a useless removed 256mb RAM chip. Replaced with the 1gb RAM chip I just installed. So instead of having 1-1/2 gb RAM, I only have 1gb. Here's the crux. To. go to 2gb RAM I'd need to buy a full 2gb RAM CHIP and discard the 1gb for which I just paid $39.99 ($45.00 with s/h). This means another output of almost a hundred dollars plus the $45.00 just wasted because they wont accept return once the sealed chip plastic was opened...even though I had no idea there was only ONE SLOT in this PC instead of TWO like the Tiger Guy said. Now...crux #2...this new 1gb RAM does nothing more to increase speed. I just watched a 2.01 MINUTE YouTube video which took a HALF HOUR to load, so I threw the money away for nothing, eh? There is no noticeable change except the 'speed' shows it now as 41.2 kbps instead of 40 kbps. Okay...now HOW do I get to speed this thing up to normal viewing in real time? I also saw an ad for 4bg RAM Gateway laptop with 120gb hard drive for $404.99 which is all suped-up with everything. I had to upgrade a LOT since I got this only four months ago...taking over a hundred hours to load it, like Internet Explorer 5 to 6 and then to 8 and now to 9. I'm using AVAST Anti-Virus, after trying for 23 hours to get ADVAR, then find out it didn't load because of problem on the servor's end. Added Firefox and upgraded twice. Loaded MS Protection but it created more problems so I deleted it...now with AVAST which I like. Soooo...I've literally spent over 200 hours to get this thng where it's at now, plus the wasted money for the upgraded RAM chip.and I still don't have increased speed. HOW do I get it? IF the processor has to be changed does this mean I have to gut the thing and install a new motherboard? If so, what kind of money cost are we talking here? I bought this four months ago as a refurbished unit only because I was able to get it on payments of only $25.00 a month. If I had to wait to get $400.00 cash I'd never have it. :-) Okay...that's it for the moment. Thanks much again for your help offering and detailed instructions...appreciate it more than you realize. Best Wishes And God's Blessings To You And Yours In Everything Always. Most Respectfully... ~ ED  ---------------------------------------------------------------- Javin007: Well, let's start with the RAM. If you're running windows XP, you can assume all the extra processes (virus scanners, and whatnot) will be eating up about 512 megs of the RAM. First thing to do is check DXDIAG again (start/run) and verify that it's now reporting the correct amount of RAM. (Don't be surprised if it's like 9 hundred something megs or slightly more. It won't report 1024 or 1 gig.) This being said, that will leave you with the other 512 for your applications. This box won't be running the latest and greatest 3D games, but I suspect it was never intended to. If the heaviest hitter you'll have running is along the lines of photoshop, the 1 gig of RAM you have now should be plenty sufficient. I wouldn't worry about getting 2 gigs. Not for this rig, anyway. Also, Avast is a great (and free) virus protection, every bit as good as Symantec's Norton, so good choice there. If your youtube videos are choking out, we need to start by verifying that it's an actual speed throttling problem. Go to www.SpeedTest.net and run the speed test. Come back with the results.

Topic by Javin007   |  last reply


A fix; Error 500 & inability to download pages fully

For some time I have had issues fully downloading pages from this site. Firefox seems to hang when just a little of a page is left to download, and I have had the same on sites that use the animated Flash spinning wheel. I found the following two fixes. Just over a week ago, Firefox asked to update to 3.5.6 which I allowed. Today looking for fixes, I tried Firefox >help>Check for updates, and got a error message saying not posible as Update XML file malformed (200). Therefore I downloaded Firefox and installed it over the top of my existing Firefox, in order to retain my settings. I also changed settings in Firefox >tools>options>content and clicked on Fonts & Colours Advanced, there under Character Encoding, I changed Default Character Encoding to Unicode (UTF 8) and I made sure that "allow pages to chose their own fonts instead of my selections above" remained ticked as always. (for me) My reasons for the #2 fix, was that I have been monitoring fault reports for code coming off Instructables for the last 2 days, and the code was showing lots of failures with defining the display properites of each Instructables' page I downloaded. My MS Outlook broke about the same time Firefox asked to update, as mentioned in #2 above, and I had been useing a work around, while thinking about what to do, after Outlook's Detect and Fix  failed to help. After doing #1 & 2 above, I find Outlook has fixed itself. Sometime ago, I had lots of trouble, becuase a friend was sending postings to a Yahoo News Group, from Unbuntu/Evolution (An app like Outlook but Open Source) The group moderator had to manually release from the sin-bin each posting by my friend. At that time, I was the only person replying via the newsgroup to my friend, and Yahoo's robot moaned to my ISP that I was sending out spam/virus. I have good relations with a senior team leader with my ISP and he got on the phone to me. And gave me a date of when it happened. I went into the headers of my emails out that day, and found the trouble was my replies to my friend via the newsgroup was encoded in UTF-7. I preview all incoming email on the WWW in Mailwasher, I had already been telling my friend his emails were mucking up my Mailwasher. I checked out UTF-7 on Wikipedia and found the email standards authorities strongly advised against its use. Having some UTF-7 encoded emails on my computer, caused my whole system, to slow down, or lock up for minutes at a time, AND I was having trouble with Instruibles page downloading then too. Yahoo I discovered, saw UTF-7 encoded email as spam/viruses because its filters could not read UTF-7 very well, so stuck them into the sin bin, for the human moderator to check over. AND UTF-7 encoded email on my PC could not easily be checked by AVG, so AVG was locking up my system while trying to scan these emails. I had to purge all the UTF-7 email off my PC before things went back to normal. Normally, that newsgroup postings are archived on my PC for 6 months before deletion. My reason for discussing UTF-7 is to show what incorrect formats and coding can do to a PC, and why I chose UTF-8 for #2 above, the option i had there was something beginning with Western... I would appreciate hearing if the above has helped anybody, otherwise I will never be sure if it was not just plain luck. Peter

Topic by Lateral Thinker   |  last reply


Would this automatic curtains / blinds controller design work?

Hi all, I have been searching for ways to make an easy and cheap automatic curtains/blinds controller but have not really seen any that actually meets my basic needs but also does not require lots of complex IC components. Please let me know of any instructables I may have missed. So here is my design - hoping everyone can help to validate it and discuss design faults and improvements (mainly to reduce costs). The Requirements: 1) Costs: Total costs should be around $20 per curtain. I think professional systems cost about $100-$200 per curtain controller. 2) Parts: Easy to build and put together with some soldering. Parts are easy to find/buy or substitute for similar components. 3) Function: At least 2 buttons. One UP button and one DOWN button for manual triggering (wireless buttons would be better). 4) Function: One press of Button A fully opens the blinds with the motor stopping at the correct place to avoid damage to the blinds or the motor. The opposite goes for Button B to close the blinds. 5) Function: The controller should never be able to open or close the blinds past the normal safe positions, causing damage. 6) Optional Parts: Complete system is small enough to fit inside the blinds/curtain's cover / awning. I think it should be easy to fit in most covers anyway. Briefly how it should all work: With the curtains rolled up, you would press button A, which would roll the curtains DOWN, then stopping at the correct place (covering the whole window). Pressing button A once again would not do anything or further roll DOWN the curtains. Then, press button B and the curtains should start rolling UP constantly, stopping just before it gets to the top. Pressing button B once again would not do anything or further roll UP the curtains, avoiding damage to curtains or motor. Design/diagram below (sorry for the poor details, i used MS-Visio to draw it out). The Parts/Components (under $30 at time or writing): 1) 5-10kg servo $7 (using 5volts) that can be power in forward or reverse spin. Slow spinning speeds would be best for safe and low power operation? 2) Some hand made adapter to firmly connect the servo motor shaft to the curtain's shaft to spin/roll the curtains ($0 free). 3) A wireless power relay $14, (12 volts) with 2 channels and "constant on power" functions (links below). I guess wired relays are fine, but I would want to hide the wires to the buttons. 4) 2x 5V regulators $2, to reduce the 12v power from the Relay to 5v for the Servo. 5) 2x Magnetic or reed switches $5 (12 volts) that is Normally On (normally connected). 6) 4x Rare earth magnets $1 to work with the reed switches. These are small, thin and easy to hide, but are very strong. 7) A power source for the relay, 4x 18650 batteries?. Should be 12 volts or depending on what relay & servo combo you use. (links below) Construction: 1) Make an adapter to connect the servo to the blind's shaft. I dont have a picture of one or the steps for this as every servo & curtain combo situation will be different, but im sure it should be simple to make. Fail or malfunction of this part would cause too much damage to anything really? 2) For best practice, use temporary wiring to connect all the components together as per diagram and test out the functions as if they were installed in their places and on the blinds. 3) Glue or connect the adapter, curtain shaft and servo shaft together. Also mount the servo firmly somewhere, on the wall or curtain cover so it doesnt end up spinning itself. 4) Position both magnetic switches on the wall, behind and just under the curtain's roll of fabric as per diagram. A lot of testing and playing around will be needed to create the correct gap between each switch and curtain.    Switch A   (Limiter A) will be the most difficult to position. It will be used to stop the servo from rolling the blinds too far down. This means the magnet glued on the blinds is up high on top, which will be rolled inside layers of fabric and may spin close to Limiter A multiple times which may cut the circuit/power earlier than intended as the magnet spins round and round. Limiter B should be easier. 5) Wire the 2 channels on the relay to the Servo and the Limiters. The 5V regulators goes between both channels of the Relay's power OUT and the Servo's two power Inputs. Screw or glue the relay to somewhere firm like inside the curtain covers. 6) Glue the rare earth magnets to the desired positions, or sew them on if you dont trust the glue. The magnets will physically cut the power to the servo by activating the Magnetic reed switches, so using 2 magnets would be even better, just incase the servo you use spins really fast or has a lag. 7) Connect the relay to the battery/power cable. Of course double check all is good before adding power. In my case, I will have 12v power cables available to use. 8) Put the curtain cover back on to hide everything. Hopefully you did not create creases in the curtain fabric where the magnets are glued. Oh and maybe remove the curtain draw strings (used to pull up & down the curtains) to avoid breaking the Servo? Detailed explanation of how it should work: - The blinds are fully rolled up. - Press Button A once, Relay provides power to Channel A, Servo spins clockwise constantly (rolling down the curtain). - Servo's positive line A is cut (circuit open) when Magnet A rolls out and comes close to Limiter A. Relay is still outputting power to Channel A but no power goes to the Servo. - Press Button A once again, the Servo should not do anything. The Relay should then stop outputting power to Channel A. - Further presses of Button A does nothing but toggles Channel A's power on and off. Magnet A & Limiter A still disabling power to the Servo. - Press Button B once, Relay provides power to Channel B, Servo spins anti-clockwise constantly (rolling UP the curtain). - Servo's positive line B is cut when Magnet B rolls up close to Limiter B. Relay is still outputting power to Channel B. - Press Button B once again, the Servo should not do anything. - With this "latch" functionality of the Relay (see link below and product details), it is also possible to stop the curtains mid way, which might be useful for some people, i dont think i will use it. For future upgrades: I think it would be possible to control this controller from a PC program, by directly connecting IO cables to the Relay's button A & B on the PCB. Sending pulses from the PC as though it were remote button presses. Or just bring the remote to the PC's IO ports and connect there. Would anyone disagree? Links: - An example Servo: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=High+torque+Metal+Gear+RC+Servo - The wireless Relay: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH;_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=2CH%2012V%20Wireless%20Relay - The 5v Regulators (L7805): http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?rt=nc&LH;_PrefLoc=2&_nkw=5v%20regulators&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m283 - The magnetic reed switches: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=reed+switch - The rare earth magnets: http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_nkw=rare+earth+magnets+n38 - Design/diagram: http://i50.tinypic.com/118emas.jpg

Question by sonhy   |  last reply


What does the Huawei trade ban mean for us?

You might have got in the news ages ago but for those in other countires:The company Huawei together with some of the subdivided companies got involved in the trade war between China and the US.In terms of consequenses for the users we certainly will see that there won't be any new devices getting on the local markets until this disaster got resolved.For existing users or those buying stocked items from before the ban took place the future might be not as good as previously thought.Firmware updates might not be allowed anymore, meaning if Huawei has a usable update for another region that could work it is a manual process that might render the device into a brick.Google already stopped Playstore support for many devices and there won't be any Google licinsed new devies anymore either if they get their will.Gives regional selling a whole new meaning and finally allows the full use of firmware checks and more to keep devices with addded but unlicensed Google services fully out.How did it come to the ban?The claim is that Huawei can already be used by the Chinese government to spy on users or might be to in the future.What gave it a feed for the press was the phones, the ban however is more aimed on backbone infrastructure.Collateral damage so to say.A bit like taking someone without any proof of wrongdoing and to lock him away.Oh, wait that is already a common thing...The funny thing is the same that Huawei now uses in a court claim against the US:Every hardware used for the internet in any way can have security issues.Otherwise we would not need firmware updates to fix security issues.What's the big deal then? Well, that is exactly the point Huawei is trying to make in court now.The problem behind the band and now issues worldwide is however realted to something we might not really consider at a first glance: The new 5G network for our mobile phones and other mobile devices.Once some "hackers" exposed and excessive list of security flaws in the 5G network two things became evident way too quickly:A) The same agencies that signed up on the security of the network got exposed for already impementing them into their surveillance systems.B) The securtiy flaws are so severe that anyone with access to the backbone infrastructure could basically check whatever happens on any part of the network, down to the user level and possible device control through remote services.The first is not a deal breaker as the agencies got exposed for abusing the rights of people since they exist.The second means it is no big deal to create patches for the flaws that can be implemented through firmware updates.And that is exactly the concerns of those spying on us (legally they claim).To implement the fixes you need to provide the information on the flaws and the exact way to fix them - which means you provide the information required to get acess like before even with the updates rolled out.Huawei provides everything from end user devices (phones and such), over routers and modems to the hardware required by your ISP or those in charge of the worldwide backbone infrastructure.With the ban it is now possible to get the 5G network happening with "Made in the USA" hardware only.Or, of course hardware from "trusted" companies outside the US.Brings nice and decent boost for the local harware manufactures while hiding the fact that the 5G network in the current form is more like a Swiss chesse - fully holes in terms of security.There are now claims however that say those agencies that signed up on the security "overlooked" the security flaws with the intention of having a future option against China in the trade war.Too bad the security flaws were not kep secret by those "hacker" paid to confirm the safety, instead they made an almost public event to present them.Otherwise the whole thing would have gone totally unnoticed by the world.And if such a move ever showed one thing than it is loyalty and only those countries with strong ties to the US jumped onto the ban while other either say they don't see concerns or simply wait until the concerns are proven to be real before replacing all the expensive gear with US products.If you followed the trade war a bit you realised it already thing with global consequences.Entire supply chains struggle or collapse already.Jobs are lost, economies suffer.And what was already a problem for countries outside Chinese and USA territories is now affecting the big guys as well.The world depends on fair trade.This fair bit is now devided by two countries deciding on what the rest of the world has to pay.What started with the refusal to take our rubbish was played out like a fight between two rival sibling below school age.Things are said and tossed around with no care about what happens as a result.Only problem is the toys are not stying in a kids room, the toys are things in other countries.The scratches are not a kids skin, they are in the hip pockets of everyone.Except for a few things both countries could do fine without each other that is what trading is for.But both countries want full control about everything with no care about how this affects other countries and people in the world.Prices are going up for everything as result.Will there be a winner, will there be an end, how might it end?There is only one winner and this winner is already clear, or make that two: Big companies and banks.Only those with a supply chain affected by the trade war will struggle to compensate and adjust to the changes.We just pay a higher price and have to accept it.Unless both sides give in and act like adults instead of toddlers the only possible end is once one side has fully control again.The most likely end would be a great devide between the US and China and a s result China getting an even stronger focus on being better than the rest of the world without involving it.Trillions of Dollars are wasted every year just because those two have to make copies of everything the other onew does wihtout ever really working together to more than half the costs.Not mention the money saved on no longer needing to spy on each other.Just take the moon, the USA needs to get back up there fast, China has fixed plans and India is not far behind either.Russia is stitting back and doing a bit here and there for everyone to be included without wasting too much money.If you check the territories in Antartica you will notice there is not that much Chinese presence.That bit of our world is appearntly only for peaceful exploration, despite the ever present military.Now what about the moon again ?China already managed several times to sent probes not only to the moon but also onto the moon - without any of it being detected by the US.Only once China presented images and videos it becae evident that their space program is much further ahead than previously thought.Pretending to only help the poor civilians aorund the south pole is a thing you might get away with.Not so much however when it comes to territories on the moon.If you can estabilsh a scientific base on the moon or estabilsh moning operations than how hard would it be to do the same with a military installation?And from up there even throwing rocks down to earth would do enough damage if the rocks are big enough...Nw, if you can't trsut a a space travelling country here on earth: How can you trust them to behave on the moon where really no one can go have a quick check on things?It is not like anyone would go for a quick drive to next outpost if it means risking your life every meter of the way.The consequences of this useless trade war are not only globally but start to affect the lifes everyone in the modern world.And did anyone ever consider that the atmospheric distortions are a problem for a telescope when watching the moon but not so much the other way around?Using the same digital telescope a pixel on the moon circles about 50 meters.Thanks to the long distance from out atmosphere to the moon.On the other hand the same pixel on earth, if watched from the moon, would only move around a few cm at the worst of times!

Topic by Downunder35m 


Looking for a cheap compressor with a high pressure rating or for airbrush use?

Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


500W electric scooter control and instrumentation with Arduino mega

1. Introduction DC 500W motor control with an Arduino mega to limit starting current and to vary the speed of the scooter. The battery is in 24V, 10A.h. The following table summarizes their characteristics: https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a014.jpg https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a111.jpg 2. Bibliography: Link download : sketch_escooter_feed_back_reel_V1.ino https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_fB3GAsM02FSlRTWHdyRkhuUW8/view?usp=sharing escooter_ampli_SIMULINK.mdl https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_fB3GAsM02FOW9OdmlhdDhJZGc/view?usp=sharing escooter feed back ISIS.DSN https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_fB3GAsM02FOXdRWFN5OWRMQkE/view?usp=sharing youtube  :  "study trotinette electric e-scooter 100W et 350W, wiring"  youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqJ2-YiE8Tg&index;=75&list;=PLfZunVn_gcq7EOurXuWU2sRFmh6CbiUiL Article: «Study of electric scooters 100W and 500W (Arduino), Revue 3EI 2017» Pdf? Book «I realize my electric vehicle» at DUNOD 3. Open loop program To test the programming, we simulate the program in ISIS, as can be seen in the following figure. In addition, we have an LCD display to display data (duty cycle corresponding to the PWM at 32Khz, motor current, motor voltage, action on the pushbuttons, 4 push buttons are used. BP1 to manually increment the duty cycle, BP2 decrement it. BP3 set the duty cycle to 0, corresponding to the brake contact. The speed of the motor is practically proportional to the duty cycle https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a211.jpg We made our own current amplifier called a step-down chopper but it is possible to buy a shield There are many cards for Arduino to control DC motors especially of low powers and also of great powers as can be observed on the following links.http://www.robotpower.com/products/MegaMotoPlus_info.html http://www.robotshop.com/en/dc-motor-driver-2-15a.html https://www.pololu.com/file/0J51/vnh3sp30.pdf https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a310.jpg But all these chopper shields measure the current internally but there is no current limitation. In order to have a current limitation, an analog current loop is required using specialized AOP or IC or a fast digital current loop. But what should be the value of the limitation current? The choice of the current value is normally for the 1-hour operation service in order to be able to carry out relatively long climbs without reaching the critical temperature of the engine. In our case, the limitation current must be Limiting motor = Power / Upper battery = 500W / 24V = 20A In addition, the power transistor of the chopper can only support 50A in our case. But in open loop, it has no current regulation, so as not to exceed the maximum current, a ramp of the duty cycle will be used. A 0.1 second interruption routine will be used to measure the voltage of the current (sample measurement, sample). This sampling time is arbitrary but does not allow to be faster than the rise time of the current because the electric time constant of the motor is L / R = 1.5 ms. Open loop operation with a 25.5s (8bit) ramp and 0.1s interrupt routine provides a good understanding of the operation of a DC motor drive. The display will only be done every 0.2s to have a stability of the digits on the screen. In addition, a digital filtering will be done on the current and the voltage on 4 values therefore on 0.4s. [b] Algo open loop [/b] Interrupt Routine All 0.1S Read voltage and current Loop loop (push button scan) If BP1 = 1 then increment PWM If BP2 = 1 then decrement PWM If BP3 = 1 then PWM = 0 Displaying variables every 0.2s Code: [Select] // include the library code: #include #include #include #define SERIAL_PORT_LOG_ENABLE 1 #define Led     13       // 13 for the yellow led on the map #define BP1     30       // 30 BP1 #define BP2     31       // 31 BP2           #define BP3     32       // 32 BP3 #define LEDV    33       // 33 led #define LEDJ    34       // 34 led #define LEDR    35       // 35 led #define relay   36       // 36 relay #define PWM10    10      //11   timer2    LiquidCrystal lcd(27, 28, 25, 24, 23, 22); // RS=12, Enable=11, D4=5, D5=4, D6= 3, D7=2, BPpoussoir=26 // Configuring variables unsigned   int UmoteurF = 0;  // variable to store the value coming from the sensor unsigned   int Umoteur = 0; unsigned   int Umoteur2 = 0; unsigned   int Umoteur3 = 0; unsigned   int Umoteur4 = 0; unsigned   int ImoteurF = 0;  unsigned   int Imoteur = 0; unsigned   int Imoteur2 = 0; unsigned   int Imoteur3 = 0; unsigned   int Imoteur4 = 0;            byte Rcy=0 ;    // 8bit duty cycle unsigned    int temps; // the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board void setup() {   pinMode(Led, OUTPUT);   // Arduino card   pinMode(LEDV, OUTPUT);   pinMode(LEDR, OUTPUT);   pinMode(LEDJ, OUTPUT);   pinMode (PWM10,OUTPUT);     // Pin (10) output timer2   //  digitalWrite(LEDV,LOW);   Timer1.initialize(100000);         // initialize timer1, and set a 0,1 second period =>  100 000   Timer1.attachInterrupt(callback);  // attaches callback() as a timer overflow interrupt   lcd.begin(20, 4);    Serial1.begin(9600);   TCCR2B = (TCCR2B & 0b11111000) | 0x01;         //pin 10  32khz    http://playground.arduino.cc/Main/TimerPWMCheatsheet                                                   //http://www.pobot.org/Modifier-la-frequence-d-un-PWM.html   //   analogWriteResolution(bits)      https://www.arduino.cc/en/Reference/AnalogWriteResolution lcd.setCursor(0,1); lcd.print("Rcy"); lcd.setCursor(10,1); lcd.print("Um"); lcd.setCursor(5,1); lcd.print("Im"); lcd.setCursor(10,1); lcd.print("Um"); lcd.setCursor(20,1); // 4 lines display * 20 characters lcd.print("BP1+"); lcd.setCursor(25,1); lcd.print("BP2-"); lcd.setCursor(29,1); lcd.print("BP3=0"); } // Interruptions  tous les 0.1s void callback()  { temps++; //toogle state ledv for check   if ( digitalRead(LEDV)== 1 ) {digitalWrite(LEDV,LOW);}     else {digitalWrite(LEDV,HIGH);}     analogWrite(PWM10,Rcy);   // frequency Umoteur=analogRead(A0); Imoteur=analogRead(A1); Imoteur2=Imoteur; Imoteur3=Imoteur2; Imoteur4=Imoteur3; ImoteurF=(Imoteur4+Imoteur3+Imoteur2+Imoteur)/4 ; Umoteur2=Umoteur; Umoteur3=Umoteur2; Umoteur4=Umoteur3; UmoteurF=(Umoteur4+Umoteur3+Umoteur2+Umoteur)/4 ;   }// End routine // Loop corresponding to main function void loop() {    // BP + LED   if ((digitalRead(BP1))==1) {     lcd.setCursor(20,0);      // Column line     lcd.print("BP1");     digitalWrite(LEDR, LOW);        digitalWrite(LEDJ, LOW);     Rcy++;                        // PWM incrementation     if ( Rcy>254)  {Rcy=254;}     delay(100);               //8bits * 100ms = 25S increment 25ssecond slope     }        if ((digitalRead(BP2))==1) {     lcd.setCursor(20,0);     lcd.print("BP2");             Rcy--;      if ( Rcy<2)  {Rcy=2;}  // PWM almost at 0, engine stop         delay(100);      digitalWrite(LEDR, HIGH);     digitalWrite(LEDJ, HIGH);     }   if ((digitalRead(BP3))==1) {     lcd.setCursor(20,0);     lcd.print("BP3");      Rcy=2;               // PWM almost at 0, engine stop     } if (temps>=2)  { lcd.setCursor(0,0); lcd.print("                "); // Erase line lcd.setCursor(0,0);     lcd.print(Rcy); lcd.setCursor(5,0); ImoteurF=(ImoteurF)/20;     //resistance (5/1024)*(10/0.25ohm) si ACS712 66mV/A                            // For resistance 1ohm (ImoteurF) / 20; Simulation 5/25 lcd.print(ImoteurF); lcd.setCursor(10,0); UmoteurF=UmoteurF*10/38;                              //10/38   10/30 simula if (Umoteur>ImoteurF){UmoteurF=UmoteurF-ImoteurF;  }  //U-R*I lcd.print(UmoteurF); temps=0; }// End if time    } // End loop https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/dsc_0614.jpg Since there is a limit of 9000 characters in the forum below Open loop program feature previous The interrupt routine lasts only 250 microseconds, the loop of the main program which scans the action of push buttons is 13micros and the display time of all data is 11ms. Thus, it is possible to improve the sampling period and thus the speed of the regulation of the current. The Arduino makes it possible to make the instrumentation of the scooter so to know the power, the consumption in Ah and Wh, to measure the speed, to know the consumption according to Wh / km, to measure the temperature of the engine, Have a safe operation. But for now we will see how to limit the current 4. Closed loop program, limited current control The sampling period will increase to 0.01 seconds (interrupt routine) If the current is less than the desired value, then the duty cycle can be increased or decreased to the desired value which is the setpoint. On the other hand, if the motor current is greater than the limiting value, there is a rapid decrease in the duty cycle. So as not to exceed the value of the duty cycle if it is saturated to 254 maximum and to the minimum value 6. Code: [Select] if (Imoteur<4000)                    // No current limitation at (20A * 10) * 20 = 4000   {if (consigne>Rcy)   {Rcy=Rcy+1;}   // Pwm ramp + 1 * 0.01second pure integrator    if (consigne    if ( Rcy>254)  {Rcy=254;}           // Limitation of duty cycle    analogWrite(PWM10,Rcy);   // Frequency 32kHz timer2}         } if (Imoteur>4000)  { Rcy=Rcy-5;              // No current filtering, to be faster                     if ( Rcy<6)  {Rcy=5;}       // Rcy is not signed, nor the PWM therefore Rcy minimum must not be less than 6                   analogWrite(PWM10,Rcy);   // Frequency 32kHz timer2}                        } 5. Closed Loop Program, Limited Current Control with Acceleration Handle An acceleration handle provides a 0.8V voltage when not operated and a 4.5V voltage when the handle is fully engaged. Instead of using pushbuttons to increase or decrease the speed setpoint, an acceleration handle will be used Code: [Select] Upoignee=analogRead(A3); // The relation in Upoign and the setpoint which corresponds to the duty cycle corresponds to if (Upoignee>100) { consigne=(Upoignee/2);     //0=a*200+b    et 255=a*800+b                      consigne= consigne-100;                   }                            else { consigne=0;   }               if (Upoignee<100) { consigne=0;  }     // redundancy     6. Temperature and safety program of the motor with the current measurement The outdoor temperature measurement can be easily performed by the LM35 component which charges 0.01V by degrees Celsius Code: [Select] temperature=analogRead(A2); //lm35 0.01V/°C temperature=temperature/2;       // Temperature coefficient lcd.setCursor(5,2); lcd.print("      "); lcd.setCursor(5,2); lcd.print(temperature);   // Display in ° C lcd.setCursor(9,2);      // Erasing secu display lcd.print("     ");   if (temperature>80 ) {lcd.setCursor(9,2);         // If motor external temperature is above 80 ° C                      lcd.print("secuT");                       Rcy=0;} In addition, thermal safety by measuring the motor current will be added. If the limitation current is greater than 10s then the motor will no longer be powered for 30s. A "secu" display will appear on the LCD display. This safety makes it possible to cut the motor on slope too high and when blocking the engine but it would be necessary to add the measurement of the speed in the latter case Code: [Select] if (timesecurite>=10000 ) {flagarret=1;      // If limitation current for a current of more than 10s                               timerepos=0;                               consigne=0;                               Rcy=0;                                 timesecurite=0;}       //   Then stop engine during a downtime    if (flagarret==1 ) {lcd.setCursor(9,2);         // If limiting current for a current of more than 20s                      lcd.print("secU");  }     //   Then stopping the motor for a stop time and display                                                     if (timerepos>=30000 &&  flagarret==1) {flagarret=0;                                           lcd.setCursor(9,2);      // After a rest time here of 30s                                            lcd.print("       ");   }   The display can be observed if the temperature is above 80 ° C https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a017.jpg Thermal safety by measuring the motor current (digital thermal relay) which allows to know the image of the internal temperature of the engine would be ideal. But for this, it is necessary to know well the thermal modeling of the motor. 7. Measurement of the energy capacity of the battery The energy capacity of a battery is in A.H, we will display the value in mA.H to have a high accuracy. The capacity will be in A.Second in the following equation. So to have in mA.H, it will be divided by capacity by3600. Capacity (A.s) n = I * Te + Cn-1 with Te = 0.01s and I multiplied by 10 So in the interrupt routine Code: [Select] capacity=ImoteurF+capacity ; And in the display Code: [Select] lcd.setCursor(0,3); // Display of energy capacity lcd.print("C mA.h="); capacity1=capacity/(18000);   //18000=3600*5  5=> Current measurement coefficient lcd.print(capacity1); To check a current of 10A with an adjustable resistor and after 30s, the capacity must be 83mA.H 8. Power and modeling with SIMULINK Modeling helps to understand the vehicle and its control. In addition, it is possible to compile the control part directly into the Arduino program from simulation under Simulink. But it will not be possible to simulate the instrumentation with the LCD display. In the following figure, we can observe the simulation of the programming of the chopper with the current limitation with Simulink. In the following figure, the green box shows the duty cycle control to vary the speed and the red border the current limitation. The controller of the control is here a simple integrator but it is possible to carry out a multitude of control. https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/azub_c15.jpg In the previous figure, it can be observed that the current is well limited to 25A from 2s to 9.5s. Then, the current reaches 10.8A under established speed regime at 22.5km / h. The dynamics are similar to the tests carried out. With a slope of 5%, the cyclic ratio reaches only 100% as can be seen in the following figure. The speed will reach painfully 19km / h with a current of 24A and a motor power of 580W. See article: Study of electric scooters 100W and 500W (Arduino), 9. First conclusion It is easy to control a 500W DC motor with an Arduino and some components So repair many scooters that are in DC motors. But it takes some knowledge (automatic, engine) to know how to properly manage the engine and limit its current so as not to damage it The display of the speed, the distance, the operating time to know the Watt.km / km can also be realized with a menu 2. The .ino program as an attached file, But it is not possible to put an attached file in ISIS electronic labcenter? What is this forum? It would be desirable that the compiler could generate the.cof to debug in Isis and test the program line by line .... Arduino still has to make a lot of effort to be on the same level as other microcontrollers 10. speed measurement (tachometer) Velocity measurement is carried out using a hall effect sensor SS495 or A1324 which counts each revolution of the wheel. It is enough to enter the perimeter of the wheel of the scooter (130mm of radius therefore 0.816m in the case To have the speed, it is enough just to divide the number of turn of wheel on an arbitrary time of 1s to have a minimum speed of 0.81m / s therefore of 2.93 km / h. In addition, an average filter with 3 values will be used to display the speed. At 25km / h, there will be 8.5 laps. To count the turns, an external interrupt routine will be used on input INT0 21 of the mega card. http://www.locoduino.org/spip.php?article64 To simulate the speed, a pulse on input 21 will be used with a duty cycle of 10%. https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a018.jpg Code: [Select] void INT0b21() {   Tspeed++;   // External interruption to count the number of turns } // In the set up declare the interrupt routine when the 5V edge of the magnet detection is done   attachInterrupt(digitalPinToInterrupt(21), INT0b21, RISING );  // External interruption // In loop if (temps09>=5)  {        // 1 second loop lcd.setCursor(13,2);      // Erasing speed lcd.print("kph     "); lcd.setCursor(16,2); speed1=Tspeed*2937;      //1tour*816*3.6/1s=2.937km/h speed2=speed1;           //Tspeed (rate/seconde) speed3=speed2; speedF=(speed1+speed2+speed3)/3000;   // To put in kph lcd.print(speedF,1);    // Display to the nearest tenth Tspeed=0;   // Reset counter temps09=0;  //reset time } To improve the accuracy of the velocity measurement, it is possible that the sampling time of the velocity measurement is dependent on the velocity. For example: For speeds less than 10km / h sample at 1second, but above 10km / h sample at 2 seconds. 11. Distance measurement for autonomy The distance corresponds to the total number of turns of the wheel multiplied by the perimeter of the wheel. So do not set the number of turns to 0 for each sample. On the other hand, the reset of the distance will be done when pressing the reset of the Arduino Mega. The distance display will be displayed to the nearest second. At 32km / h, it will take 2 minutes to do 1km as can be seen in the following figure: https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/a019.jpg Code: [Select] void INT0b21() {   Tspeed++;   // External interruption to count speed   nbrRate++; } lcd.setCursor(13,4);      lcd.print("km      ");  // distance=(nbrRate*816)/1000;  //distance m distance=distance/1000;  //distance km lcd.setCursor(15,4);      lcd.print(distance,1);  You can observe the electrical installation with the chopper, the arduino, and the display when the program is set up https://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/17/56/35/17/dsc_0613.jpg 12. Synthesis The RAM space is used only at 4% and ROM space at 3%, for an Arduino mega. So we could take an arduino a little smaller. But, there are 8 Lipo cells to make the 24V power supply to power the engine via the chopper. Therefore, the voltage measurement of each element will be on the Arduino with a JST connector. This measurement makes it possible to know if a cell with an internal resistance which begins to pose a problem and to know if the balancing of each cell has indeed been carried out. It is possible to switch to 36V with 12 cells also with the arduino mega without using an external shield that multiplex 24 analog inputs on input A0 It is possible to send all data to a smartphone via Bluetooth HC06 via pins 20, 21, RX1 and TX1. But the application under android realized under JAVA Studio can not be shared on this forum. This part will not be explained. After having made the instrumentation of this scooter, a study should be carried out on the precision of the measurements, it is possible to read "Instrumentation of a low-power electrical motor vehicle" eco marathon "type Revue 3EI N ° 81, July 2015 http://www.fichier-pdf.fr/2015/09/07/instrumentation-vehicule-faible-consommation-eco-marathon/

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