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Stairs that double as dressers

Here are some plans for modifying your stairs so that each step can also hold a drawer for extra storage of all your stuff. The things you put inside would have to be of the occasional-to-rare use since these look like a pain to have to deal with on a regular basis. Other concerns are just how well the heat will be kept above or below and if they can be spring loaded so you don't step into an open drawer on the way down the stairs and brain yourself on the landing. Oh yeah, the risers that get removed are often providing structural support for the step above so be aware of that as well.But if you can pull it off safely, it's a neat trick. link

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


how do you build a dresser ?

How do you build a dresser?

Question by ColleenRaw    |  last reply



how to build a dresser shaped like a tool chest? Answered

Ok, my son is 2 and has a race-car bed just like every little kid dreams of (my ex-mother-in-law found it for him at a yard sale) I want to coordinate his bedroom around this bed, because it's such a big part of the room and kind of hard to ignore the shape. I saw this kids dresser made by step 2 that's shaped like a tool chest (pictures to be included), and it's really neat and would go great with the garage theme I'm planning, but the only problems are 1) it doesn't seem to hold much, and 2) it's kind of pricey. so I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out how to make a dresser that has a similar look to it. I do have some basic woodworking skills, but not much in the way of tools. I can rent other tools, but I pretty much have a hammer, a drill, and POSSIBLY a circular saw (I'm not sure if we've got one of those). it doesn't have to be perfect, but I really want to try and do this for my son.

Question by anyanca1987    |  last reply


How to make a bar spectrum analyzer (or graphic equalizer) from a dresser? Answered

 I have an Ikea dresser with smoked glass panels recessed in the front of each drawer, and there are six identical drawers stacked on top of each other (www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40129591). I was looking at it the other day, and thought, "Hey, why not try to make it into an EQ?" I'd like to have it driven either by a line level signal (in which case, I'd still want to be able to pull the signal out the other side, unchanged) or by a microphone/pickup of some kind.  So my questions are:  What would be the simplest way to make the controller to drive the EQ bar lights? Is it feasible to use incandescent light bulbs to light the glass, or would it be difficult/impossible to sync them precisely to music?

Question by Jonny Katana    |  last reply


New house, living in loft, need furniture, help?

I'm moving into a new house. Decided to move into the loft. Basically, it's the V of the roof, like an attic. I can just barely stand in the center, but I expect to do little more in there than sleep, use the computer (at a desk, IE sitting), and poo (there's a bathroom, weird, huh?). I can use an air mattress, so that's easy. Now I just need ideas for a cheap desk (I'd put the computer on the floor, but I sit for hours, because I'm a lazy-ass and a nerd, so it's gotta be comfy) and a way to store clothes (lotsa shirts, socks, some pants, regular stuff) without big-ass bulky dressers. Everything has gotta fit in an attic-style hole in the ceiling and go up a ladder. Ideas?

Topic by mr_goodbomb    |  last reply


Lookee-likee

I was amusing myself watching Filth Ritch and Catflap (1986), when I got a strange feeling of deja-vu.... Same hair-dresser? Look and decide (Rick Mayall in the blue shirt, Eric Wilhelm in the black)

Topic by lemonie    |  last reply


How do I install a sink into a old table or desk or dresser? ?

I want to remodel and remove the old ugly man made cheap formica top the sink is in now-- I hope to find an old dresser or cabinet at a flea market and use this instead to add character . I have very limited funds.. want to use the same sink- typical almond oval- not that old. Please advise. The plumbing and the sink are located close to a wall -- i imagine I will have to move it over -- how do I do that? I have never done anything like this before.

Question by waterhorse  


DIY Hatchback Subaru Legacy

Check out this DIY Hatchback I caught a few pictures of coming off the Bay Bridge in Oakland, CA. I think the guy driving was a woodworker, and needed a couple extra cubic feet to fit things like dressers and wardrobes.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


What is the best way to hang/ display knives and swords?

I have a fairly large blade collection and i need a way to display them for now they are clutterly on my dresser they need to br free and have room to breath. What is a good way to hand them from the wall?

Question by corsi    |  last reply


Patchwork Quilt Top - Now What?

I have a double-bed size patchwork quilt top. I would like to use it to make things other than a bed quilt. I am looking for ideas that will utilize the quilt top for several different projects but I'm not sure what to do. Appreciating textiles, one bedroom in our home has many quilts - hanging on the wall, on the bed & as dresser scarfs. What can be made out of the quilt top? Thanks for any ideas!

Question by BelleCBelle  


How to remove rancid smell from furniture?

I stored a dresser in my daddy's shop -- it's a huge metal Morton building, and I thought it'd be okay because it was out of the weather.  However, evidently it drew moisture because now it smells strongly of mold/mildew and so does everything that was in it.  Now I want to move it back in the house but not w/ those nasty smelling drawers.  Anyone know how to make them smell sweet and fresh again? Many thanks!!

Question by PalominoGirl    |  last reply


Crazy Idea

I was cleaning out my dresser draw and i found a package of engines that you put i model rockets and i said what the hell lets combine knex and rockets engines.I have just designed a rocket car out of knex i am hoping to see if it works in the next week if it does i will post it. For a fact i know some peices will get melted when the engine blows at the end of the cycle. I just wanted to get your comments

Topic by RunningBrave    |  last reply


What is the easiest way to make a cob house? Answered

I am trying to make a cob house. I've got clay, sand, hay, straw, and some concrete. i need to know how to make a foundation and drainage system. I have about a 3 and a half month window to complete this house. I want it to me circular and about 14 feet across. More of a cottage than a house but, still big enough for two small cots, a table, and possibly a dresser and a fire pit.

Question by goatgirly    |  last reply


Hi, I live in a crappy room in a basement and desperately need help arranging the cramped space.

1. space for upright exercise bike 2. sewing/craft area 3. desk for studying 4. bed - I would love to have something bigger than a twin 5. storage! (no dresser) I'm semi handy also :-) The big square is a  furnace.  the tv sits on three 2.8" shelves which hold my clothes and random sewing projects. Thank you!

Question by melaniemelanie    |  last reply


Warframe corpus Locker

Ok so i started playing this new game called Warframe and it is free to play so anyone with a PC is able to play to see the locker of the corpus faction,   Anyway I fell in love with their locker design and I was wondering Is it possible to replicate it in life size 8ft tall or so I'm guessing,   Because the designer who did this did an amazing job at realistic mechanically working locker. And you can see how much room this locker has and my plan is to turn it into a open dresser style with no longer boring wooden pull drawer but rather a cool one that opens up and this thing is so cool looking. 

Topic by rreynolds10    |  last reply


Ethics Question

I need to do a quick survey for a class I'm taking, so consider this hypothetical situation: You are living in an apartment with a roommate. This roommate always has some form of change, and usually drops it in a bowl on the top of their dresser. Over the course of the year, this amount has grown substantially large. Today, while you can manage to get by, you are a bit short on cash. Your roommate is out, and you remember this bowl of change. The question: Would you take any money out of this bowl, and most importantly, why? If you could also tell me your gender (if you're comfortable with it) and approximate age (preteen, teen, 20's, etc.), that would be most appreciative (It's important to the survey). Cheers! ~Alt

Topic by AlternateLives    |  last reply


Custom Stairwell Doubles as Handy Bookshelf

These stairs provide access to a loft room in a tiny apartment as well as a nifty spot to place loads of old paperbacks and CDs. As someone who is getting threats to start getting rid of books on a near daily basis, I can appreciate this.Another thing that's interesting is that this is the first set of stairs I've seen that has a prescribed way of going up and down them. You're meant to step on the side that sticks out more with the indent allowing the traveling foot to clear it. I think I'd want a handrail if I wanted to prevent any houseguests from plummeting down and slamming into the door at the bottom, though. linksee also:Stairs that double as dressers

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


Teen Guy Bed Room Ideas-No Sport?

Hi, I am 13 and I am wondering how to decorate my bedroom?? I have a rectangular room with all doors and wardrobe at one end, and grey/purpkleish walls with a eggplant feature wall. Beige non-replacble curtains. I have a massive metal 4 poster bed crazy thing. Which I LOVE! What shall I do? I also have a white/green retro dresser and dressing table, and some small wooden filing cabnets. I like the late 50's and early 60's. And pugs, definatly pugs. But, as I am in Australia there is no Wallmart or macys for me. But we DO have target! I am intrested in making 2 'zones' in my room. bedroom down the doorend, and longue(????????????/) down the other? What should I do??? Thanks

Question by Warlrosity    |  last reply


[newsletter] 17-Foot Gandhi, BBQ Tips, Sweet Tea...

July 10, 2008 Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup1","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); } Welcome back! The Robot Contest ends this weekend! Make the most of that extension we gave you, add some finishing touches, enter your Instructable by Sunday night! The Horny Toad Invent-a-Sport Contest starts today! Win lots of cool clothes from Horny Toad by sharing your own original sport or game.The winners from the BBQ PDQ Contest have been announced. See who won!There's now an Instructables page on Facebook. Become a fan, post on the wall, and even upload some pictures or videos. Four Square Chair by wholman RC truck robot conversion by OracsRevenge Best FREE Things to do at Disney World by woofboy111 BBQ: Fall Off the Bone Beef Ribs by Mr. Rig It Smashed Mutant Octopus book "shelf" by Sunbanks Night Stand Charging Station Lamp by drocko BBQ Hero - slow cooking, smoking, and sauce bars by dave spencer DIY Force Sensitive Resistor (FSR) by kylemcdonald Southern-style Sweet Tea for Summertime by reno_dakota How to Climb a Tree (with prussiks!) by stasterisk Glass Dining Room Table "Etching" by Code128 Bumcamping in Japan by TimAnderson Win cool clothes from Horny Toad! Get published in the Instructables book! See who won! Build a thruster for a submersible or ROV by Kajnjaps Pulled Pork by Ticking-Timebomb A New Desk... From A Dresser by MercuryCrest 17-Foot Tall Cardboard Gandhi by delappe Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric Sign-up for this newsletter: function openSubscribePopUp(src){ var emailValidate = /\w{1,}[@][\w\-]{1,}([.]([\w\-]{1,})){1,3}$/ if(emailValidate.test(src.value) == false){ alert("Please enter correct email"); return; } window.open("/newsletter/newslettersignup?email=" + src.value,"newslettersignup2","status=yes,scrollbars=yes,resizable=yes,width=420,height=250"); }

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


Restore an old steam trunk

This is a quick CALL FOR HELP regarding the restoration of an old steam trunk. The idea is to convert it into a stylish coffee table and storage space and I could really use your suggestions on how to strengthen it's construction and embellish it's exterior. With your help I'll go forward with the plans and publish my progress here. The timeline is also important since the trunk occupies considerable space in our little apartment, so ideally I would like to finish all the woodwork within the next couple of weeks (until beginning of May 2012). The exterior and small touches could wait. HOW I FOUND THE TRUNK I found the trunk next to our dumpster 2 days ago and I just couldn't believe it - Who would throw away such a beautiful thing? - Was I such a good boy that Garbage Santa gave me this gift for Passover/Easter? I hauled it to our flat - my wife asking me what did the cat drag in this time.. (she just loves it that pack our home/car with stuff I find) she couldn't believe her eyes when she saw it. Since we live in a flat with almost no storage space it's very difficult to put together all the needed materials for this project, plus, I insist on doing it with recycled wood (what I find lying around) so to minimize costs. Requirements: @ The trunk should be sturdy (kids might climb on it at some point, ~20kg on the lid). @ It will probably hold a big pile of magazines (10 - 40 kg on the bottom), pillows/blankets. @ I want to add 4 or 6 casters to the bottom so it'll be more mobile. @ I think there should be additional internal support where the leather handles are so when they're pulled I won't be standing with one side of the trunk in my hand. Materials: - Wood - I currently have a solid pine wood dresser in my car, ready to be disassembled for it's beams (?) - OSB - there is some around where I work, 10mm thick. I'll try to find any more materials you'll suggest. Tools: - Drill (and screws) - Glue gun - Staple gun - Carpenter's glue - Hammer - Oxalic acid - Will need to finally buy a Gigsaw.... Trunk internal measurements: Length - 980mm Height - Box - 485mm, Lid - 105mm Depth - 559mm The trunk's side thickness is about 7-8mm made of ply wood covered with black leather. I has seen better days, but it's in relatively good condition. We were thinking of gluing the black surfaces with some sort of bright colored wallpaper (leaving the black leather lining with pins visible) so it would give it some sort of lightness - less bulky. I was also thinking of maybe gluing some sort of fabric with a cool vintage design, but it seems like a lot of work making it look good, stretched with no wrinkles, excess glue... plus it'll probably gather a lot more dust than a wallpaper (I'm allergic). There are two issues that concern me: 1. A fear that this current design isn't strong enough for a clumsy family. 2. I want to attach the corner supports and lid OSB without needing to drill the exterior (too much). I thought of using a lot of glue, but I'm not sure it's the best way to go. What do you think? I'm also attaching this design in Google SketchUp.

Topic by Mr.Bahur    |  last reply


a Blucky corpse

stage 1 ok, so i have begun.the Blucky i chose to work on is a bargain basement Blucky, literally. when i made the trek to the Spirit Store and Party City last October, i happened upon some marked down Bluckies. they were 10 bucks, and not guaranteed to not fall apart in the store, lol. so i got a buggy and picked up a couple of them. the cashier pointed out that they were defective, did i still want them? of course i did! 10 bucks instead of 12, for something that i'm going to probably screw up anyway...so the 1st order of business is to fix the defective joints. i decided to disassemble it, and fill the bones with spray foam insulation. then re-assemble. hoping this will meld the pieces together well, and add a little weight. nothing looks faker than a Blucky blowing in the wind!it is laid out on the counter at the shop. the customers kept giving me strange looks.. can't imagine why! so i figure the excess that is oozing out can easily be trimmed away. i do have a back-up plan in case the spray foam won't hold firmly enough. it involves hot glue. hopefully it won't come to that though... the panty hose i plan on applying next should bind things well.STAGE2so today i began stage 2 of the Blucky. cutting his arm and leg bones to more closely resemble an actual body. i used my Dremel, and a razor knife to trim them up. i made a HUGE mess, and had fun. i'm sure i didn't do such a great job on this, but it is my 1st time. STAGE3so today i tackled stage 3 of teh Blucky corpsefication, carving the skull and ribs.ummm. it is MUCH harder to do the ribs than the skull, let me tell you! the dremel tends to 'get away from you' on the long curves of teh ribs. my carpal tunnel didn't help matters any, either! it's kinda crappy looking in fact... i am rather disappointed with myself. luckily they wont all be visible after the pantyhose goes on! the teeth proved to be difficult too. Danny said it looked fine, though. i do have some pics somewhere...we went to Lowe's last night and got some carpet latex to coat it with. the girl in the flooring department thought we were crazy at first, then warmed up and was interested in our projects and plans. she wants us to bring some pics by in fact!here are some of the how-to's i'm using as inspiration:http://hauntforum.com/showthread.php?t=8659http://www.fulcrumsites.com/haunt/html/corpsification1.htmlhttp://skullandbone.com/tutorial_02.htmiam kinda mixing and matching techniques. i'll be using paper towels or toilet paper, pantyhose, cotton balls, great foam, maybe cheesecloth and various colors of stains/paints.the hair my Blucky will have is Grade A. i had my long hair cut off, and instead of donating it this time, i plan to utilize it. the hair dresser kept asking me if i was sure i wanted her to cut it, she said it was "beautiful and so healthy!" i imagine i'll have to distress it little so it will look like it belongs on a rotted corpse. LOL!!!!i'm wondering... does anyone ever put remnants of rotten clothing onto their Bluckies they corpsefy?STAGES 4 & 5ok. so i worked on Blucky today at work. first i taped up the arm and leg bones that i had cut out with the dremel. this is probably a useless step... but i think i was trying to stall actually getting going with the scary part- the latex.i used some masking tape i bought at wal mart in the paint department. then i applied the pantyhose. this part caused customers to stop what they were doing and come watch. Josh and I struggled with it until we got 1 set on the right way, and one set on upside down, covering the arms and head. we overlapped the torso with both sets.now came the scariest part. donning the gloves and applying the latex. it stinks! i put down a couple of trash bags and dove in... globbing and smearing until it was covered. i had to warn customers away from it, so Blucky wouldn't stick to them! one guy nearly bumped into it, just walking by. maybe i should have done this step in the back room, away from people. i hope he turns out ok... hair, stain and paint are the next steps, when he dries out. STAGE 6so i stained Blucky. i think i got a lil heavy handed with the stain... but he is my 1st ever, so it's all good! i bought MinWax mahogany gel stain and a large pack of cheap brushes (getting my Lowes connection price of course- dented can)i placed Blucky's feet into a large box. having stained my kitchen cabinets once, i expected a HUGE mess... but the gel is marvelous! NO DRIPS AT ALL!i did get a little splattered onto my left hand and forearm, but that is because i'm a slob, LOL.several customers wandered over to watch, and inquire about him... several seemed genuinely interested in our Halloween obsession! a couple of kids who were there were thrilled, and assured me he looked totally gross! only 1 customer questioned why we were working on Halloween in February. this is a far cry from last year when i was detailing the tombstones at the shop and had people looking at me as if i were crazy... maybe i'm rubbing off on them, or maybe they are used to my eccentrics by now, LOL!Josh and i left the shop at 6, and Danny stayed over a few minutes, (he's painting truck parts in the back room) he said when he walked back through the empty, half-lighted, locked shop he caught Blucky out of teh corner of his eye and it spooked him! a sure sign of a job well done! anyway, i suppose Stage 7 for Blucky will be eyes... or LED's. definitely an LED in the chest cavity. this will be up to Danny, as i don't do wiring (yet, lol) so the ball is in his court!my motto? the couple who haunts together, stays together!

Topic by susanfromhauntspace    |  last reply


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply