Explosive Fun with a Capacitor Bank

Watch a 24kj capacitor bank as it discharges through various objects. Maniacal laughter follows each one and a slo-mo montage finishes it all up. via Make blog

Topic by fungus amungus 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Need help identifying a capacitor (from a drill that exploded in my face!) SOLVED

Help! I am incapable of identifying this capacitor.The capacitor says KPB 7301 B9 0.15 μF +2x 2500 pF XY 250V~, and I'm not entirely sure what this means, and what I need to maybe buy to replace it. is it a .15 microfarad one, two 2500pF in one, or both?While drilling a small hole in aluminum, the drill suddenly made an insanely loud explosion sound. Freaked the spinning drill bit out of me. I took it apart and found this exploded capacitor I need help identifying, to replace. It's an old drill that also powers my mini circular saw and bench grinder, SKIL 1437 H1.Thanks!

Question by Yonatan24 10 months ago  |  last reply 12 days ago


Explosions for football game

I am a chemistry teacher and I need to make a set of explosions for the football team to run through. The run on the field and the explosions go off on each side of them Any ideas. I may fill a dozen metal coated baloons with hydrogen and, and ignite them with some sort of electric spark strong enough to pepetrate the baloon. I'll put six of them on each side of the path that the team runs out through under the goal post. And how will I make the system to spark them off (electric plug in?)(capacitors, tesla coils, etc.?) thanks

Topic by ChemNut 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


What will happen if i use a capacitor that has a farad measurement that is less than what is required ?

The voltage limit is properly matched, only the farad measurement is not the same. IMPORTANT WILL THE CAPACITOR EXPLODE?

Question by La Tour Rouge 10 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


can electrolytic capacitors catastrophically fail or explode if they are shorted out? Answered

My father (an electrical engineer) told me that if a capacitor is charged and than shorted out than it can fail, possibly with explosive results. However I have seen way to many Youtube videos of capacitor banks being shorted and nothing but a big spark happening. Who is right? Can anybody help me?

Question by junits15 10 years ago  |  last reply 2 years ago


Cordless drill power supply

I am using an EFUEL 30amp 18volt 540watt (model sk-200013)  power supply to power my Ridgid cordless tools. A dead battery was gutted and a power cord was soldered onto the circuit board inside the battery enclosure. My problem is that I encounter an OCP (overcurrent protection) error if I do not slowly power up my tools. I can live with this except for tools that are not variable speed (circular saw). If a Ridgid cordless tool demands full power at start up then the OCP error condition is triggered. My question is that I have heard that the installation of an external capacitor will eliminate the ripple effect and smooth out the power demand on the power supply so that any tool used at 100% demand at start up  will work without causing the OCP error condition. Is this correct? If so, can anyone tell me the type and value of the capacitor to use? Any help is appreciated. JEM213

Topic by JEM213 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Ker-Pow!-citor

So, my circuits professor described electrolytic capacitors today, and said that reverse-biasing them could cause a catastrophic, eye-popping explosion. All that in a little metal can? I had to try it! Here's what it takes:

Topic by stasterisk 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Rockford Fosgate R500X1D repair help?

I have a Rockford Fosgate R500X1D that is having issues. It lasted a while but then there was a loud "pop". It still worked, but it could only go so far. I took it apart and found a bulging capacitor. I have already replaced the capacitor with one that had the same specs. After the swap, It worked for a few minutes but then there was another "pop". I took it apart again and found a discharge(?)/burn(?)/explosion(?) mark on the bottom of the enclosure right beneath the new capacitor. I can't recall if there was one there before or not. This time, however, the capacitor seems to be fine but the amp is still acting up and i'm not too sure what the problem is. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Question by knex.gun.builder 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


The rite resistor to charge this super capacitor.

    Hello I was wondering what resistor you guys would recomend for use in a capacitor charging circut. I can follow common sense for a small 160uf 300v photo capacitor. But this cap has a rating of 3,700uf and 600v. And considering its in issue, (which I believe it may be,) assume your giving it 18v of power from let's say... a drill battery.                                                      Thank you.

Topic by darthDIY 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


BP. They had to drill a hole to make the oil come out right? Answered

Why can't they build a weight and tie some explosives to it and sink it into the hole they drilled? Would the hole not collapse upon it's self and seal up? Sorry about the grammar.

Question by gummypaul 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Discharging high amounts of amperage in a very short time.

Previously I asked this question, except I wanted to build an electromagnetic dent puller. But no one gave me specific ideas or instruction of how it could be done, instead everyone told me different ways to pull the dent out, or how the metal looks.. Anyway. I have a lot of copper wire. And I have a bunch of magnets and ferrous cores, iron rods.. etc. I am wondering if I can create a very powerful burst of magnetic energy with a few winding's of copper around a ferrous core. I'm talking enough to push two very heavy objects apart, such as a television or couch... 1) Copper will be wound around about 40-60 times 2) High amperage discharge from capacitor bank 3) Possible explosion or melting wire? Thank you... again

Topic by Justdoofus 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


LED Snake

I made a new Instructables, my 4. Its called the LED Snake . Its made up of lot and lots and lots of LEDs in different colors, red, green and yellow. It can serve as any kind of decoration, or you can attach it to your car or bike and lots more.The LED Snake can be modified and hacked to blink , fade ... The lenght of the LED Snake is up to you, mine is 1m long! You can make this project under $ 10!To see how it is made and how you can make ti visit the instructables!https://www.instructables.com/id/LED-Snake/

Topic by comodore 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


I tried to create a 2 led driver from the mains. Can you please check it? Answered

(This is just an experiment) The first circuit failed due to my mistake of using polarized caps. I replaced it with non polarized now. Can you please check if it would work? I don't want a loud explosion again :) Capacitors: 0.47uF 250V LED: 3V White Diode: 1N4004

Question by codestroy7 7 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Can anyone make this and post an instructable? Answered

See the schematic and these are the parts and please make a breadboard version IC1: LM555 Timer IC Q1: 2N3906 PNP transistor R1: 100K potentiometer R2: 3.9 Kohm resistor R3: 10 Kohm resistor R4: 47 Kohm resistor C1, C3: 0.01-µF disc (non-polarized) capacitor C2: 1.0-µF electrolytic or tantalum (polarized) capacitor Speaker: 8-ohm, 0.5-watt speaker(i also tried a buzzer) Photoresistor: I used a LDR aren't they the same? The buzzer goes off(not off. it's like explosions"The bomb went off") when light hits the photoresistor.

Question by Hafiz Mohammad Shayan Tariq 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Supercapacitor for power supply design?

Hi I am new to electronics but I have studied the basics and the logic. I have 6 3000 farad supercapacitor from Maxwell(not the boost cap one) with a power rating of 3 watt- hour, so each capacitor holds about 10.8 kilo watts(3 watt x 3600 seconds= 10,800 watts). So I have been wanting to make a power supply out of these and two types have ran across my mind: 1. Turning them to a voltage multiplier type of circuit( so like a voltage multiplier but the capacitor is these capacitors). So I would have an output of 500 amperes(6 3000 farad capacitors in series would have a capacitance of 3000f/6=500f) and output voltage of 16.2 volts. For charging this power supply I will use a step down transformer connected to the mains with some circuit breaker, fuse, switch and ballast/ resistor at its input, the transformer will step it down to approximately 2 volts ac which then I will rectify with a bridge rectifier. 2. Putting them in parallel so I would have a total capacitance of 18,000 farad at 2.7 volts, and putting them in parallel with my power supply. So this works by charging the bank and the bank will discharge when fully charged. The power supply will be the same like the first design power supply. However this circuit seems very risky and I might need some feedbacks. For your information I live in Indonesia and the wall outlet have 220 volts with amperage of ~20 amperes So I have some questions which are: Q1. Which power supply design is more ideal in terms of safety and efficiency? And how can I improve? Q2. For power supply design 2, I believe I might need some "system" for timing the charge and discharge of the bank,what circuit or system should I use/ make? How about using relay? Or spark gap? Q3. What should I do to avoid explosion of capacitor in both power supply Q4. What components are recommended for the charging power supply and what diodes are recommended for the design one capacitor bank? I already have the thick wires necessary for this since i know both systems deliver huge amount of power. And please inform me if there is any mistake or anything wrong. Any input is very greatly appreciated, you don't meed to answer all question since i know is a lot and i don't want to waste anyone's precious time. Thank you so much for your time.

Question by dikap123 4 years ago  |  last reply 4 years ago


Bike Lighting - Pedal-Powered 60W Incandescent Bulb?

I know, I switch projects a lot. I just can't stay focused on one thing for too long.Anyway, here's my idea:There's a local museum called Fort Discovery, which, by the way, is quite cool. But, there is this exercise bike they have there, and connected some how (I haven't been there in a while) is a few different home tools, like an incandescent light bulb, a drill, a hair dryer, and something else. There are switches, so you can turn whichever ones you want on, to see what you can power. The "exhibit", if you will, is to show how work = power. Now, I'd like to try to hook something like this up, except a few things will be changed:It would be a regular, moving bike.There would only be a light bulb.I want the power to be stored in a capacitor, because what would be the purpose of having a light while riding in the daytime?Now, besides from the point of me not knowing at all how to hook this up, I wonder if there would be a capacitor that would store enough power to light the bulb for a reasonable amount of time, if say, I used a 60 watt bulb. Then of course, I have a few questions, some of which I may of already said:How big would the capacitor have to be hold enough power to light the bulb up?How many hours (or minutes, if applicable) of moderate riding would it take to store enough power to light the bulb enough to see for about 15 minutes?Would the power stay in the capacitor so that I could charge the bulb a bit over the course of a few days?How would I hook such a circuit up?Could I hook the circuit up so that the power is stored from the wheel going around, rather than my pedaling?Thanks for any and all help, and if this turns out all right, then I may just put an Instructable up. I guess I'll have to see. Thanks again!

Topic by Bran 11 years ago  |  last reply 11 years ago


Motor Speed Controller. I have recently purchased a 115v Bodine Electric 42R Series AC Induction Motor

 I want to be able to control the speed of this motor to use for my homemade brass reloading tumbler. I am currently using a cordless drill which is not practical for the lenght of time the brass must tumble. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cvunTv-5x7A The specs for the motor are as follows.. 42R Series AC Induction Motor Standard Features Totally enclosed IP-20 rating. Fan cooled for high output power. Class "B" insulation system operated within Class "A" limits to prolong winding and lubricant life. Aluminum center ring and end shields for high thermal efficiency and light weight. Permanently lubricated, noise tested ball bearings. Locked bearing design minimizes shaft endplay. Application Information Capacitor is not included. Order with motor if required. Models are available with either NEMA C face mount or base mount. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Question by ehays 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Rgb matrix, looking for some advice/guidance.?

Hi, its been quite some time since Ive been here. And I still have the same two projects in mind. However, the project im more focused on, is a 32x16 RGB led matrix. Made up of four sections. Im following the project by the two guys over at solderlab.se. They arent very active and speak a different language so their english explanations arent as thorough as Im looking for so I figure id ask the people here :) So, the main questions I have: 1. What kind of material can I use to put the leds on? its like they use thick cardboard or wood. they drill all four holes per led so the legs go through. I want one big board instead of two.  2. What spacing would be good to make it look uniform, yet give enough space to solder?  3. How can I make the 4 controller boards to run it? - They sell them, but they arent cheap. And they dont deliver or sell to the US. So Ill have to make them somehow. I can provide images/part list of what they used.  4. What type of solder/soldering iron would I need? Obviously various temp. But what temps would be safe?  5. What power supply can I use? Ok so, any other info: -They used common anode LED's  -They connect the boards together via ethernet cable.  -They connect the led's together in four sections of 8x16, The anode is connected on each of the 8 rows. And the anodes on all the led's are connected on the 16 rows. If that doesnt make sense, the anodes are connected vertically, and all the cathodes are connected horizontally. -They connect the 48 cathode wires to ribbon cable, that goes to the controller board, same with the anode wires.   -They connect the boards to a Usb to UART connector -Lastly, Part list of one controller board:  HEXFET IRF7314 x4 TLC5940NT x 3 28 Pin IC-Socket 300mil x 4 Resistor SMD 0,25W 1% 10K x 10 Resistor SMD 0,25W 1% 2K2 x 8 Resistor SMD 0,25W 1% 2K x 3 Resistor SMD 0,25W 1% 220R x 2 Resisitor SMD 0,25W 1% 1K x 3 AtMega 328P x 1 74HC138 SMD x 1 Ceramic Capacitor 22pF, 20% x 2 Oscillator 16,0 MHz x 1 Pinheader 2x8 Pitch 2.54mm x 4 Jumper x 3 Pinheader 1x2 Pitch 2,54mm x 7 Modular Jack x 2 Ceramic Capacitor 100N, 20% x 5 Electrolytic Capacitor 680uF x 1 LED 5mm blue x 1 LED 5mm green x 1 Screw terminal 5.08mm x 1 If theres ANY more info required please ask. It said to be as detailed as possible.

Question by 'earl 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Tin Can Turbine Engine

Hello!               Let me give you some insight into this project (Tin Can Turbine). I'm going to school to get an Airframe and Power Plant Cert. (Aircraft Mechanic). I stumbled across this idea on YouTube one day in class and it really got my gears turning. It's purely for fun, and I'm not even sure if I have the technical skills to get it to work.             First of all the way a turbine engine works in layman's terms is Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow. The fan section sucks air in from the atmosphere, Where it is moved to a compressor section which squeezes the air into a tighter pocket of air; which makes the air hotter and more explosive. When the compressed air is pushed into the combustion chamber, it is more volatile than normal air due to the compression. When you add a fuel (jet fuel, gasoline, propane, kerosene etc...) it will ignite with the compressed air (given that there is a spark to get the fuel vapors to ignite). When the fuel/air mixture is lit the fire will continue to burn without an ignition source due to the explosive nature of the compressed air. And the gas (burnt fuel/air) is pushed out the exhaust. There are blades in the rear of the engine called turbine blades, which are connected to the front of the fan/compressor section, in some cases there are two or three turbine blades, which drive the fan, compressor sections independently. Due to the turbine blades being pushed by the exiting gasses, the engine becomes self sustaining. And through black magic, you have a jet engine!!!              I'm going to attempt to construct a jet engine (not a motor!) out of a "tin can". I'm really not going to use a tin can, I'm actually going to use .032" thick 3" wide, and about 6" long exhaust piping made out galvanized steel. It's a lot thicker than a typical soup can, thus willing to stand up to more heat. My proposed fuel source will be propane, because it's cheap, and the I'm sure that I'm capable of controling the amount of fuel going into the engine. I'm not sure yet how many fan blades vs. turbine blades that I'm going to use. Right now I'm in the experiment phase. My blades are going to be made out steel can tops, because there is very little cutting involved, beside the actual cutting and angling the blades. and they fit perfectly into the pipe. As for the fuel delivery i'm going to use a copper pipe that is approx .042 thick and hallow. I'm going to cap the end, and wrap it around the inside of can. There will be eight holes drilled into the copper, which should give it plenty of fuel at equal pressure all the way around the can, equals same heat all around.         As for the drive shaft, I'm not exactly sure of what to use for that. I may want to go with something hardened already, so the heat surrounding it won't melt it. (that's the hope anyways) . I'm also not sure of what sort of bearings I will use. I was thinking skate board bearing with the plastic crap around the middle taken out (so it doesn't melt and seize the bearings) and extreme high temp. white lithium grease for lube.          This is an experiment and I guarantee myself absolutely no success. But I think it will be fun to try. Questions or comments are more than welcome. Please, if you see any problems with the design, let me KNOW!!!

Topic by shawnpc 6 years ago  |  last reply 9 months ago


Material Section

Hi there!I hope this is the right section to post this in, if not then i'm sorry i picked the most probable one (i hope D: ).First of all i love instructables, i'm using way too much time in on this page than i should, but then again if it wasn't or instructables i wouldn't have this cool new Hard Drive Speaker present for this cute girl i like ;)In any case let me get to the point; i would like to suggest a Materials Section for Instructables - basically it would include material stats and an in depth explanation of the material (or component if we're talking tech here, but that's a different area). Here's an example: in an instructable, the author mentions plexiglass and that it needs to be bent. Many don't know that plexiglass isn't class, but an acrylic hardened plastic substance with abilities much like glass (but not quite). Plexiglass can fracture, but wont leave extremely sharp pieces like glass will and it can be bent when under medium-high heat from a heatgun or the like. Also that high friction (from a drill or the like) will cause it to melt.Basically what i mean here is that this section would greatly reduce the time an author spends on making his ible by letting out basic facts. E.g. instead of writing "plexiglass is..blah blah" the user would be able to look up in the materials section and read in depth for him/herself what the characteristics are for plexiglass/plywood/capacitors/batteries and so on.The materials page could be powered by the "burning questions" competition i've seen on this page. I don't think material characteristics fit in ibles because it strictly isn't - it's a data sheet that lets you understand the materials and components you're going to use in an ible.PS: sorry about the lower case i's and the occasional typo or grammatical error i'm not a native english speaker . also i really hope this is the right section to post in...

Topic by Eirinn 10 years ago  |  last reply 10 years ago


Laser Beam Security, Amuse a Toddler, Aesthetic Life...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Mar. 6, 2008 Welcome back! See who won the prizes for Tool Tips Month! Enter your sweet paper airplane design to win a shirt in the Toss It! paper airplane speed contest! Coming Soon... We'll be in Austin on March 7-11 for SXSW Interactive. We'll be making LED Floaties at the PopSci party on March 9th and be checking out many other events. See our full schedule to see where we'll be and say hello! The winners for the Anti-Yo Worldwide Video Yoyo Contest will be announced tomorrow morning. Check out these cool instructables! Digital Camera Spectroscope This sweet and simple mod allows a slide to be mounted to most cell phones, turning them into digital spectrometers. posted by dorejc on Mar 3, 2008 Automatically remove songs from your iPod This handy trick only takes a minute to set up and lets you choose which songs you want to remove from your iPod while you're out and about. posted by getgreg on Mar 2, 2008 How to Amuse Toddlers Use these tips from a childcare provider to keep your toddler occupied in over 20 ways. posted by SteveGerber on Mar 5, 2008 How to peen a rivet Learn to peen a rivet and get one step closer to making that perfect suit of armor you've been dreaming about. posted by armourkris on Mar 2, 2008 How to Live an Aesthetic Life by Wearing, Eating, Traveling By, and Listening to Specific Colors Match a color to every day of the week! A guide to working at Instructables. posted by ewilhelm on Mar 3, 2008 Apple Floppy Amp Get back to the future when you install a powerful amp into an old, 5.25" old, floppy disk drive. posted by jeffkobi on Mar 1, 2008 Protect Your Home with Laser Beams! Here is an easy to make and powerful laser alarm system that can protect your entire home, indoors or out! posted by Kipkay on Mar 2, 2008 Add Color Effects to a B&W; Photo Use the free GIMP software to make parts of a photo pop out in color while the rest is black & white. posted by summit on Feb 20, 2008 Drill Press Lathe Turn a drill press into a lathe and get an intro to woodturning before shelling out the cash for a lathe. posted by Tool Using Animal on Feb 26, 2008 Improved Paper Wallet, Vinyl Style Has your paper wallet fallen apart or gotten soggy? Then maybe it's time to upgrade to this vinyl version for more durability and stability. posted by Demokr on Feb 27, 2008 Companion Cube Tissue box Make your own useful companion cube. This one won't protect you from explosions, but it will help your sniffles! posted by theslaminj on Mar 3, 2008 Make an iPod Video Projector Project video and pictures on a screen using your iPod, a mirror, a lens, and some scrap cardboard! posted by tanntraad on Feb 28, 2007   Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Topic by fungus amungus 11 years ago


The ultimate challenge?

There are always good contests available for those keen on competing, but what about a real challenge that might run for many months? I am talking about rediscovering ancient technologies and ways of creating things. We have a lot of evidence that is in massive contrast to what archeologists want to make us believe. Be it the way the pyramids were build or just in what timeframe, the use of technologies thought to be impossible at that time or just the knowledge of things like star constellations that are not not visisble to the naked eye. In a lot of areas it seems not only archeologists but also some "secret powers" try to put a hold on discovering what was really possible thausands or maybe even millions of years ago. Things like the knowledge of distand star systems that are invisible to the naked eye might never find a suitable explanation. But what about tools and technologies used to create stonework that is hard if not impossible to create with our modern tools and technologies? I dare everyone to participate in the impossible! We know thausands of years ago milling, drilling, machining and lathe work was done but we have no real clue how it was done. At times when the rest of human kind was happy using stone tools and otherwise just hunt and gather for food some areas saw an explosion in technology. Within less than a few hundert years some builders in Egypt went from simple and explainable works to stuff impossible to do in today times. Same for India, the UK and the american continent. No hardend steel tools were ever found, no machines, no evidence on the how to, just the perfect work. Here is the challenge I propose: Come up with: 1. A way to cut or drill granite and harder rocks without modern tools or tech and still do it faster and more accurate. 2. A way to match hard rocks to each other with a precision down to less than a mm - as shown in many ancient buildings preferably on a big scale. 3. A way to create delicate carvings in hard rocks, things like hollow heads less than 5cm in size or cravings with spaces of less than 3mm wide and several cm deep - as shown in many India sculptures. 4. A way to build a lathe capable or turning several tons of steel with an accuracy better than half a mm and without electrical or combustion engines. 5. A feasable way to transport and accurately position several tons of stone - again without electricity or combustion engines. 6. A way to create sculptures with an accuracy shown by the ancient Egyptian ones, meaning perfection... 7. .... I could go on but I guess you get the picture ;) The solutions could be as simple as using sound and vibration or as complicated as finding a way to create tools hard and durable enough to proove the archeologists are right after all. And before you cry out that it is impossible: Consider the evidence! We know it was done but we don't know how, so let's show the world how we at Instructables solve the problems noone can explain ;) I can't offer any real contest, prices or such but maybe someone is reading this and willing to provide the base and soem prices?

Topic by Downunder35m 1 year ago


A couple questions

Hey guys, I want to bug you's again. Instead of trying to ask about different things in one of my other topics, I wanted to start a new one. I went to the local dump today, and one of the first things I spotted was Three, not just one, booster packs. You know, the ones you can charge up and boost a car with, and some of them have inverters built into them so you can run small appliances. Well I snapped all three of them up, thinking that at the very least, the lead acid batteries inside them would be OODLES of help towards making a full scale wind generator (I plan to build one or two full size wind generators with car alternators, whenever the good weather comes and I can work outside). Well, I got them home and cracked them all open. Turns out that only one battery is good to me (pictures below). The two identical units have 350 watt inverters built into them (I've removed one so far), but the batteries were bulging and the sides were split open, although not leaking, which was good, less mess to clean up. The third booster pack I opened appeared to have been already attempted at being opened. 4 of the 6 screws had been drilled out (which is beyond me as far as why they would do it? They were only phillips screws), but maybe they weren't successful? It had a couple wounds of electrical tape around it to hold it together. Needless to say, whatever cutting tool they used, cut into the battery itself (they cut too far in, dumbasses...), and so my main question here is, is the battery safe to charge, and use? I took some macro's of the damage and some of the cut marks seemed to have gone far enough in to cut into what appears to be a white plastic lining inside, as the white crud on the sides of the battery feels more like burnt on plastic from a cutting disc than it does acid that oozed out and dried up, so the damage doesn't appear to be that bad. What's the worst that could happen anyways? Also, the battery has about almost 8v left in it, and another question is, is that too low for a 12v battery? Like has it been discharged too far? Also, aside from the battery. I found this plate with a transformer, giant capacitor, and a pcb that looks like it was some kind of voltage converter board (I would take a picture but I've since cut a few things off of it and I won't even bother now) The transformer puts out 25v and you can see in the pictures what the capacitor is rated for (I would like to know what I can use this capacitor for, or if I should save it and wait till I can make a bank of capacitors for a tesla coil project or something) What I can't figure out, is what is this square device I found that was plugged into one of the output leads of the transformer? It only had two leads coming off of it, one is marked + and one -, the other two terminals don't have marking on it. No model numbers or anything. Does anyone know what this is? Also, last in my pictures is one of the inverter boards I pulled out of one of the power-packs. I cut the second outlet off and wrapped the first one in tape just to make sure I dont' shock the hell out of myself. I have my truck battery sitting inside over the winter, and with a good 12.71v, I thought it would be the perfect battery to try the inverter on. I brushed the wires onto the top terminals of the battery and although I could hear a bit of sparking, I saw nothing and the indicator light on the power switch didn't light. The volt meter also showed nothing from the 120v outlet. So I tried shoving the wires into the bolt sockets that the truck's wires bolt into, and I quite literally startled myself as it emitted a really loud BEEEEEEEEEEP, I nearly jumped through the roof. The indicator light turns on when I flick the switch to I and I can hear the transformer making a little buzzing sound. However, when I measured the AC voltage from the outlet, I didn't write down the voltage, but it was around 3v? Not even quite that much. I'm not sure if the inverter is screwed or if it has something to do with the switching nature of power inverters causing my multi-meter to not read it right? One other thing I will note is that I had to cut the power switch leads to remove it from the case, then re-solder the switch. The switch has 2 black wires and one red, I tried my best to make sure that each black wire went to the terminal on the switch it came from, and I assume if I didn't hook the switch up right, it wouldn't have lighted up or anything right?? I don't want to try plugging something into it for fear that it will blow up in my face, at least not until I know it's functioning like it should be, however I doubt these power packs were throwing out for failure of the inverter... *On the side note* I apologize for these (sometimes) rediculously long posts or just mundane questions. However, I like to be thoughrough with my questions so that there are very little questions asked, about my question, in the first place. As it seems to waste a lot of time asking for details about this or that problem, when you could just throughly explain it all in one go. This is what I try to do, so there are no blank spaces for you guys to try and "assume" where you don't know the proper information. Secondly, I've really appreciated the help, and sometimes just the helpful and creative ideas I hear from others, makes me feel good, like there's actually some people on here that know what they're doing and I can trust their answers (Nacho, kiteman, caitlyn's dad, 1010100100, all of you regulars, have been great help to me) *End of girlish requiem*

Topic by Punkguyta 10 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


My Laptop Is Broke. But how? Answered

I have an old dinosaur laptop (a Fujitsu Life-book C2330 approx. 7 years old.) that worked up until very recently. I packed it up in my closet for a few weeks, and when I decided to re-purpose it, the laptop wouldn't power up. I believe the problem is not in the laptop itself, but in its power transformer. When the transformer was working, it would make a high-pitch, low volume, whine. But now the transformer only whines once for a half second every five seconds. This could maybe be attributed to a blown capacitor or other electronic mishap. If that is the case however, it would probably be more worth my time buying a new transformer. My second idea is that the transformer has been damaged but usable for a while, but the laptop requires a slight charge of some kind in the battery to get it going, and the old transformer doesn't have the guts to give that charge. Metaphorically leaving me with a car with a dead battery, trying to jump-start off another car with another dead battery. If this is the case, then I should buy a new battery. My third idea is that both the transformer and the battery are not the problem, and it is the power jack that is the problem. I had to open the computer up not too long ago to re-solder the loose power jack. The screws that attached a ridiculously large EMI cage to the motherboard were stripped, so I had to drill them out, and then bend the EMI cage about 45 degrees. That allowed me to fix the power cord, but it also damaged my internal wireless card. After putting it all back in one piece, the laptop worked fine until I bought a new one, when I put it in my closet and forgot about it. Which brings me back to the thought that the power jack is broken. But it doesn't look broken at all, it doesn't feel broken, and it doesn't jiggle in the laptop. And if the jack is broken, I might as well just give up. The last possibility, is that the laptop, the transformer, the battery, and the power jack are all usable, but the power cord, which looks fine on the outside, might have lost its conductivity, or become frayed and detached inside its rubber casing. Which can be easily fixed by opening it up and reattaching the wires. That's my situation. I don't know which of these ideas it is, but it has to be one of them. I appreciate any help I can get. Sorry for the bad image quality. Not that the pictures help much anyway. Thanks, Sam

Question by martzsam 8 years ago  |  last reply 8 years ago


Specifics of building a multi-stage coilgun?

So I recently decided that I wanted to build a coilgun. I already knew how they function, and after some light research, I've got the main design already laid out. What I'm looking for now is some more detailed input on the exact power requirements, circuitry, etc. Specifically: Firing a standard .177 steel BB, I want to use many small coils in series as opposed to one/few large ones. From my understanding, this will provide better end speed while keeping each coil's power draw relatively lower, and thus safer. (Am I right about this?) How many coils should I use, what would be overkill, etc? Each coil will be triggered sequentially by a IR LED/photocell trigger system rigged through tiny holes drilled across the barrel. Will a simple on/off circuit suffice, or will the projectile pass by too quickly for the full charge to release? If so, I assume I need a system to trigger a full discharge when tripped. Correct or not, and if so, how? I'm also considering fitting an extra gate at the end to trigger a circuit to bleed any remaining charge. Ideas on this? What size of capacitors should I use, and how would I charge them? The only thing Google can seem to turn up is camera flash circuits, but I'd much rather have one tailor-built to the system's exact levels. I'm going to use a press/hold switch to charge them, and would like an automatic shutoff with an LED that comes on when they are charged, but turns off when I release the button. Kind of like a camera flash, actually. I'd like to fit it with a re-chargeable battery. What sort of power is required here? How many firings would I likely get per charge, etc? What sort of muzzle velocity can I expect? I don't want to kill bears with it, but soda cans would be nice. I don't want to waste my time fabricating it only to be able to stop it with my eyeball. Lastly, are there any other points of concern or things I should know? Thanks for any input, and if everything ends up coming together nicely, I'll be sure to properly document the process for everyone's enjoyment. :)

Topic by Skye Pyro 6 years ago  |  last reply 6 years ago


Solar panel uses??

Hey guys I'm needing the expert opinions of everyone here in the tech section. See I just mounted this 0.5 watt solar panel outside on a L bracket today (not just a couple tiny ones I pulled out of solar lanterns (does anyone want to see what it looks like mounted outside? I didn't think to take pictures until I got inside). Anyways, I've mounted it, ran the wire along the ground and in through my window (drilled a small hole below the window). Connectivity checks out good and I get about 20-21v and the full sun hasn't even hit it yet. The only thing is here though, this solar panel is meant as a trickle charging panel for car batteries and whatnot, and as such I only seem to be getting about 10-15ma (seriously wtf). I just resoldered this charging board from a solar lantern I had laying around, however I have a couple questions. I'm not entirely sure if this little board will handle the current/voltage (however it should as it's fairly low current from the solar panel) I've rigged up the board mostly like it was inside the solar lantern except longer/stronger wires. I have a switch on the positive line of the batt+ to the board. I soldered some thicker wires to the SOL connections on the board. Now I've seen a few of these and some are rather simplistic control boards and some actually have a bit of circuitry to them. This one appears to have resistors to current limit the LED (would be good so I don't blow it), however after following the traces on the board the led get's it's positive from that black transistor thing with 5 legs on it (what is that a power regulator?) The idea behind all of this here is that I can maybe charge up my cell with it or usb devices for example, but to have that come from a battery pack of AA's (to work as a buffer sorta-speak like a capacitor bank). I am a little miffled as how to make this work right the way I want it to. I would assume that once I get the battery pack situated I can disconnect the LED and use that connection for a charging cable, but then it would only provide power when theres no sunlight out (when you turn it on it turns the led on if there is no current coming from the solar panel). How can I do this guys I'm sorry to ask such stupid questions as I know to some of you's it's probably fairly mediocre but I'm a bit dumb.

Topic by Punkguyta 9 years ago  |  last reply 9 years ago


The Moon - What do we really know and what is possible?

If we look up then seeing the moon is the most normal thing to us there is in the sky.But did you ever wonder how it actually got there? ;)Theories are out there by the lot, including those from real scientists.One of the most common is that it all started by catching the thing and that all was perfect at the time.Over time the orbit then stabilized.Other theories include that formed when our planet formed..What they all lack is what is common and true for all other moond out there: These rotate.According to science an object the size of our moon would need to rotate to maintain a stable orbit.No one told this to our moon, so it just stays in a stable orbit anyway.The only other accepted theory, that funny enough never mentioned OUR moon, is that the center of mass must be facing the orbiting planet.Now theories can run and wild if you let schientifically people loose on a subject.Official NASA data obtained by monitoring equippment on the moon supports the theory of the center of gravity.You see, sesmometers recorded "moon quakes" but also the impact of burnt rocket stages - the later were dropped on purpose.At first everyone agreed the equippment must be faulty but going through it again and again confirmed all works fine.So what got them so exited that was never officially made public?You see, every thing with suffient mass will create a sesmic shock on impact.On earth we can located the source of an earthquake or even explosion quite accurately.Same happened on the moon only with one difference to earth.Every impact caused a ringing effect.Like a bell, the soundwaves and shockwaves traveled through the moon for very long times.An early explanation was that the moon is made from really hard rock or that it might even have a metal core.This was rendered useless once the actual mass was calculated and it turned out the moon would rip us apart while spinning around us.The term "hollow moon" was born.Another interesting thing happens when you try to track down what equippment was left on the moon during which specific mission.Everything up there must have been installed at some stage.For some things though it seems there is no record when or where exactly something was left up there.Then there is the thing with the interviews...If you check the fuzz about the first moon landing then back then you couldn't help yourself but got exited as well.None of the three astronauts however appeared to be at least a little bit exited about going where no man has gone before.Somehow like visiting Iceland for the first time only to realise someone was there before you already.But it was the moon, not some easy to reach island...And while up there we did not see any exitement either, like fully staged and planned ahead.Like a not so 100% school rehersal.Claims that it was a fake and actually filmed in some studio have been verified to be false - they really were up there.After they came back two went silent and refused any interviews about the moon.All three though never spoke about anything we did not see on "live TV"...All the missing segments, the drop outs, the silence during communications...The money...Apart from the Pentagon making a disappearing act of 6Billion US, the already planned and staged moon missions were cancelled with no valid reason at all.One mission already ready to go to the launch pad, crew fully trained and briefed.Two more ready for final assembly.Official reason back then was "We have been there, it is time to explore new things."Almost the same statement was made by Obama a few weeks after he claimed "We will go up there again!".If you take away the costs for the abandoned missions then the money blown up to the moon has a huge difference to what can be tracked back.The lost sum equals out to about 8 more moon missions plus tons of state of the art equippment (back at the time it was state of the art).If you add what the Pentagon lost we are close to 15 more missions.The now...A few years back a lot of previously declared top secret documents have been released to the public.What was a good idea however turned out to be a bit too much.Quite a few documents were included that provide missing links to "incidents, missions, money spent"...Within these piles were documents indicating that space missions of the same extend as the much later moon missions were made.Same rockets, similar crafts, same requirements for water, food and oxygen, some though with just payloads of oxygen and water.Mind you though the documents speak from proposed options and not planned missions.And none of them had any exploration within it, just deliveries if you don't mind the comparison.Those documents about the ringing of the moon and how this would impact on the things we assumed to know about the moon were in there as well.What is really interesting though is what came back from the moon.None of it actually indicate that there is suffient ressources up there to justify mining.Funny enough exactly is planned on a military style.Seems fair enough considering the military can provide the best people for such a hard job.Some normal miner might have no problems getting under ground every day but knowing he is on the moon and might never make it back is another.With all the probing done that we know of you would assume the planned mining operations would be in an area rich in minerals, metals or at least something to generate fuel or oxygen.But no, it is planned to happen "on the dark side" and in an area that appearently was never explored in other ways then taking a few blurry pics while flying around the moon.However, both Russia and China claim to have been very close to this area long before details about the mining became public.And that brings us back to the past and what astromauts stated or to be precise refused to confirm or deny.In some videos we can see movements in the background.In several adio stream we hear the comments to what happens in the videos.If there is light moving around then it does not matter that is blue.You just wonder what it is and where it might have come from.Imagine the surprise if then in other videos you hear things like that the lights are back or that steam comes out of the moon like a gysir.There were official explanations for the first sightings made by the normal people when watching those videos on the NASA websites.Soon after the videos disappeared from the servers.Copies were made by the curious and quite a few videos were identified later to have contained "sightings" as well.Some even show what appears to flying machines with great manouverbilities.And if you take the high point of the happenings then it is also the same time when it was decided that we actually have no real interest in the moon.Astromauts later denied to have ever made any comments like that they are being followed or "escorted" by another craft.And the same Astromauts many years later still refuse to deny or confirm that what we could see and hear during their mission videos actually happened.Don't get me wrong but if the deny it then it just means we all saw some refections or such things.If the confirm it then we know something was out there with them.Doing neither usually means what we saw is ture enough to deny any knowledge about more details.Why then the sudden interest?Trump wants to get up there, military mining, private companies not to forget China.If there is nothing at all up there then why would they all spent money that could provide a much better living for those with low incomes?Even if it would be just for new schools and hospitals the money would be better spent if we trust the official claims about what is up there.The not so official claims....We already know NASA does not want to come with an official explanation why the moon sounds and reacts as if it would be hollow.Same for any video, audio or picture evidence indication there is sturctures on the moon or activities.Here is some of things that other people of great knowledge and with nice degrees under the belt say could, might or even is true about the moon.1. We have no evidence that the moon was always there, only what we have in record throughout history.Some claim the moon would be an artificially created structure.Indications of techonlogically highly advanced civilisations before us are there.And mining out a tiny planet and placing it in earths orbit is not far fetched if you consider higher technology levels than what we currently (officially) have.2. The satellite claim.Like the Death Star our moon could be an artifical satellite placed there for a purpose.What speaks for that theory is the impact craters on the moon.If it was never spinning or better rotating around all axis then a lot them would have been impossible.A crater always shows to some extend the direction of the impact.And on the moon they all apear to be direct and straight hits only.And even at some proper angle that against physics did not create a corresponding crater: Our plant would have been in the way.Officially it is claimed though that there would not be much of a directional crater because of the missing atmosphere and all debris settling evenly.Debris however does not explain the deformation from an impact at an angle.The satellite claim would also explain the missing depth in the craters.By the size of the bigger ones the crater should be much deeper and as said show some direction.If however the rocky surface landed there over time or is just the remaining natural hull then the craters could no go deeper.No advanced civilisation would design a stationary satellite that get a hole as soon as some big space rock hits it...3. Undocumented missions.If claims are true then we have been up there a lot more times than what our history lessons tell us.Tiny probes to analyse things, send data and so on are a thing not the the USA did.If you explain the reason for collecting seismic data by wanting to document an impact of an astroid then it is a joke.Sure it would be possible but what could we learn from the data?Nothing unless you consider that in some unoffial missions drilling was attempted on the moon.Sample collection to evaluate what is in the ground of use for future missions.Some documents now claim that all these attempts ended prematurely.Drills failed or broke, drill heads failed to go deeper and upon inspection were totally worn out.And all seemed to have happend at around the same depth.Although there is no atmosphere on the moon - if you stand on it you would be able to feel vibrations of the surface.Something astronauts would have felt during the drilling.And you can feel the difference between a vibration ending by stoping the drill and one that keeps going for a long time after...The dark side is visible in quite a few school books.Looks like the front with the brightness corrected just with different craters.Ever bothered to scan these pictures in and use some software to find matches to craters on the front of the moon ? ;)Anyways, those images show us the moon as near perfect sphere.What they don't show is how the images were actually made.They certainly did not use massive search lights from orbit to provide light for cameras.Means other sources were used, like IR, Radar, Microwaves and so on.Like we found the ruins of old civilisations by using satellites that can "see" through the forest and soil.And with that it would certainly be impossible to create such a nice and detailed image like we get from the front side.If some is edited, then why not all of it...And if all those missions we don't really know about also landed on the dark side it would explain a lot of things.All sightings seem to have disappeared to the dark side.And all leaked informations about previous missions before our first landing idicate the interest in the dark side was actually huge.They all ended though with one mission report claiming to have spotted lights on the dark side.Moving and stationary and when trying to get a better look by adjusting the orbit for the next round those lights were all gone.But audio recording indicate that from that moment on the astronauts were no longer alone and followed until turning back to earth.Several attempts seem to have been made to land near sightings on the dark side.Those where the astronauts returned home the never were the same again.Documents claim long treatment in mental facilites or suicide.The official missions appearntly started with the backstory of exploring.Some now claim it was attempt for a peaceful presence that still was not tolerated.4. Stories from involved companies.Even if NASA builds a craft themself they still need the corresponding supplies.And for a lot of things they are made outside by independent companies and contractors.Trying to track down early space mission again seems to confirm all claims about previous missions.The amount of materials provided would otherwise mean NASA actually crashed the majority of things right after take off without anyone noticing.5. Launches...So far all claims about previous moon missions or just secret ones were denied.I call this "plausible deniability".In all statements it is refered to the official launch sites.Things like being in public view and so on.What is not that commonly known is that there were a lot of capable launch sites available.After all big rockets have been tested in secrecy since we had the first.The claimed landing of the chinese started a big conundrum.At first the US claimed it never happened because there was no rocket that went up.Images prived by the chinese however clearly indicated the opposite.Not much later it was noticed that a few launches might have been misinterpreted as missle tests....What does that really mean?Quite simple: The surveillance is not perfect if the other side insists that it happened.The plausible deniablity is gone.If the US was "forced" to confrim they actually noticed the launches then it also means the chinese claims about the US doing the same could be true as well.And wasn't it a very important thing during the cold war to know when, where and why the other side launched anything?The silent agreement not to go up there again was broken many times...And although most if not all of these mission ended in orbit only it makes you wonder.What would be big deal even if all claims and conspiracies would be true?A hollow moon would defy what we know about how the universe works.With that it would also contradict some of solid laws of physics.So we need(ed) proof.Assuming we had that for a long time already then it leaves the big question of why it is hollow.Natural or artificial.Nothing natural would make sense so we investigate further.And if people still claim that they can use their little equippment to every now and then hear transmissions from the moon...Sure some things up there transmit data all the time but they do so on common frequencies and not in a range that is and never was used for long distance communications.The interest in the mon came back with our modern technology.We have watches with more computer power than what was used for the old moon missions.Materials and manufacturing methods that provide much safe crafts and space suits with a fraction of the weight of old designs.And we have new means of taking more or less limited energy up with us...We are prepared so to say.No matter what really is up there, no matter if it natural or artificial, just the fact that the moon is hollow changes our views on a lot of things....What do you think would be the best explanation for the data showing the moon rings like a bell?

Topic by Downunder35m 7 weeks ago  |  last reply 19 days ago


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m 2 months ago  |  last reply 2 months ago


Is my book good ?

Well i hate to bother anyone but can you please take some time to read this book i worked hard on ? i spent  countless hours of my free time over the weekend developing the plot and creatures so can you please take some time out to read the whole thing tell me what it needs or what would be good i already am 16 pages into the sequel so tell me if this is good so i can post the sequel ! enjoy Times come by Alby Chapter 1- beginning It was the night I would never forget,the night.......i....the......the last night I would enjoy life. It was spring of 2017 the night air was heavy in my lungs and you could faintly smell the BBQ and charcoal smoke from cookouts that died down hours ago I could here people talking and having a good time but I think my drink I grabbed the wrong beer it was Sarah's it was spiked I never would have noticed who did it at least it wasn't her to drink it. I simply enjoyed the sky line of Chicago filled with sky scrapers and mirror like office buildings it all seemed like a Bokeh picture to me the drug is taking affect on my body I feel dizzy . I hopped on the train, it was empty as for the weather gave a good reason to walk but I needed to get home safely. In about 30 minutes I was home. I clumsily walked up the stairs and almost fell it took about ten minutes before I opened the door, I then plopped down on my bed and ran to the bathroom and regurgitated everything I ate that night. i starred at the ceiling. I saw every detail to the nearest centimeter and then blurry the specks the marks swirled in my vision and I felt weightless for a while. I starred at the clock and noticed it was about 4:00 am and cursed myself for going to that bar with Sarah I threw up all over my bed. I tried to grab the phone to call the paramedics but I fell and hit my head on my night stand. I passed out from the concussion i fell into a deep sleep a very deep sleep. Chapter 2 Change I wiped the crust out of my eyes and felt my head a sharp pain rippled thru my scalp it was a Gash about two inches in length. i walked into the bathroom I pulled the faucet but all that came out was a wisp of air. I snatched a baby wipe and cleaned off my face I cleaned my wound with alcohol the sting ive gotten used to I used to get hurt pretty bad in the army, I got shrapnel in my knee and they sent me home the first year. I noticed a dead silence on the street I thought they probably closed it off for some type of repair. I put on my white tee shirt and noticed its softness and how it fit snug on my semi-muscular figure I was in good shape for a twenty-four year old, my mom would always tell me most of the people in America are fat but I guess she loves to tell stereotypes for what they are. I put on my jeans and not forgetting the belt this time either. I snatched my keys off the kitchen counter and headed for the door. I walked outside and paused too look at the empty streets filled with litter and carnage . My mouth wide open in amazement I asked myself what happened and pondered the different reasons riot,panic,fire what could cause such a mess, I walked towards a police squad car and smelled something rancid I slowly proceeded, I instantly veered back in panic I could not believe what I saw a dead police officer lying face down with half a chunk blown clean off his head. There were pieces of it every where splattered on the windshield and door of the police car and some on the concrete. I instinctively inched towards him and thought to myself that something bad is happening and I need protection. I unhooked his holster off his waist and placed it on mine I pulled off his Kevlar vest and put it on weirdly enough it barely was messy or smelled bad. I checked the pockets of the vest and took out a pair of keys I knew it belonged to his squad car. I first popped open the trunk and saw it glistening in the sun a Ar-15 assault rifle. I picked it up and the memories of my army training it just instantly popped into my mind. I guess it applied the same here, I slung it around my back and walked into the silence. I took out the pistol put in the clip pulled the slide back and switched the safety off and cautiously held it. I believe the gun made me more nervous than whats in the shadows, I walked down the narrow street and saw it the skyline of the city filled with smoke and fire. I stood in anger and confusion my home town ravaged broken and charred blood stained the streets and walls, but why.....why....how could this... I mean what could....d..do such a thing. I walked away in the opposite direction and then cut into an alley way to piss and paused as I heard a roar I looked up and saw a quick glance of the belly of a apache attack craft it quickly zoom by and then another. I looked away and ran out of the alley and then down the street to see what direction they were heading. They sped towards the lake area and then I saw a tiny black object fall horizontally from the choppers belly and it slowly fell, then a explosion. I could feel the vibrations. the explosion ripped the lake area into nothing....nothing..but....but...smoke. My heart skipped a few beats thinking what if the next one falls in this area I quickly broke my daydream and bolted as fast as I could as far as I could until I saw a woman crawling on the concrete she was Moaning and holding her stomach. I came up behind her and asked for help. She turned on her back “ Sarah? Ohh my god sarah are you okay ?” and she held a gun in her hand a Glock 22 model the slide locked all the way back and no clip in the gun. I kicked it out of her and and sprung on her she begged for mercy “albert you have to stay away from me im turning” she saw that I was armed and quickly told me the gun was unloaded and that she was sorry she told me she would do anything just get away from her . I told her “Im not here to hurt anyone I just want to help” I starred at her beautiful figure her perfect face and thin hourglass body but ragged cloths and red eyes from crying. How and what did she go thru that could turn her into such a wreck. She got up and put her arm around my shoulder kissed me on the cheek and passed out. I dragged her to an fenced off alley where there was a mattress I put her down and sat next to her .she hugged me and began to cry she than jumped on top of me “Sarah what are you doing no we cant do this now no!” I told her I will help her but I dont think she understood a word I said. She looked at me in my eyes I could feel her touch my soul, her blue eyes glared in the sun. “i dont want to die alone please” I stood up nervously, I was concerned for her health when suddenly I heard a bang then felt a sharp pain in my leg. I collapsed in agony and saw the cause of my pain a bean bag round I looked up and saw a gas mask wearing figure he shot me with another bean bag round in the knee, from his shot gun he then walked over my numb body and. picked up both bean bag's and threw it aside two people in hazmat gear grabbed Sarah and took off her clothing I screamed “what are you doing to her!!!” they did not acknowledge me they looked at her body like they where searching for something. Her passed out figure limp as a rag doll they removed her pants then her underwear I screamed “No!! you son of a bitch don't do it ill kill you” they studied a bite mark on her upper thigh they made some type of hand signal and left. the soldiers then they came and started pouring gasoline on the mattress and her body. the one with the kriss super V took his cigarette out of his mouth and then flicked it at her it rolled of of her shapely belly and hit the mattress her body bursted into flames and she spasmed and kicked wildly. Then the man pointed it me and said in a British accent “ knock that fuckin Yankee an put em in da ACP double time, thoes hungry bastards are comin” Chapter 3 world gone mad I awoke on a bed in clean clothes and a hair cut. I stood up and walked into the hallway and noticed that this was a hospital. Suddenly a hand grabbed me. “aey where do you think your going ya damn runner rapist” I starred at him & his arrogant look and heavily customized ACR bushmaster. “get the fuck away from me im leaving what ever the hell this place is” he then sprung up and pushed the barrel of his ACR into my neck. “look if you want to get devoured by those runners be my guest buddy but dont go exposing this place to the infection” I looked at him like he was retarded “infection what infection and why the hell is the army bombing populated areas” he looked at me the same way. “ where were you 2 days ago ? There was a virus it was originally H1N1 but it evolved up to 10 times now its got Chicago by the balls and its spreading across the world as we speak turning everyone into animals devouring and ripping people to shreds and then the virus takes over the dead body and brings it back as a runner also know as a fresh undead body that has the ability to run or sometimes sprint god forbid but after 2-4 weeks without food the tissue breaks down from constant use without fuel and they start to get slow and shuffle around” my mind felt overwhelmed I wondered how my parents were doing in Dallas. “so what am I supped to do here but be a waste of space” he grinned. “well you obviously know how to use a weapon and our records say you have been in the military. you cant take care of yourself out there so we will make you part of out kill squad. “kill squad ?” “ohh shit you mean you have never killed or seen any infected yet ? that means your fresh you can be put to good use in our kill team” he told me his name was henry the specialist of his team kill team Charlie-mike. He directed me to the staff sergeant who looked at me and said “well well well we got some fresh meat hope you ready for 3 months of hard core trainin cuz this wont be easy now get yo ass in the garage and clean every APC tire the armory I think the kill teams ran over a little too much runners” 3 Months later........ the training was more rigorous than the basic military stuff a the armory where there was at least a 100 others conversing and grabbing into boxes of gear. Henry took me to the gunny of the armory where he helped me choose my gear. I picked up dragon skin Kevlar with implanted ceramic & alloy inserts. I took some gloves which I cut the fingers of. My boots where the basic digital camo color probably a left over from the war in Iraq which ended several years ago when our president simply drew the troops out. And European troops and some Russians finished off the big time terrorists soon after we heard no more from any our genocidal efforts finally payed off. I went to the weapon stand where I had to fill out a ID sheet to make sure they knew I had training with combat rifles. I chose the ACR which was in stock by the thousands as a gift from the weapon companies to the American army. I pulled all the safety clips and then grabbed a eotech scope out of a box and locked it onto the rail system of the weapon. I attached a mag pull the every one of my carbon strength reinforced clips. The gunny looked at me with a grin and we left for briefing. Chapter 4 things get messy we met up in the garage of the hospital every runner hunter of this kill force a total of 300 men and women in the huge elevated parking complex of the hospital, a general arrived in the elevator his chrome glasses shined in the evening light so did the many badges pinned on his suit which fit his old figure rather awkwardly. he had two formally dressed men with him they both had desert eagles on there side holsters but the general had a FN 2000 slung around his back. it was worn and scratched its polymer body was embedded with and insignia that I did not see so well as it was obscured by the scuffs and grime he looked at us and smiled his mouth opened and he flung his cigar off the ledge of the building he then begun and explained in a dominant voice. “there are 40 spec op Humvee's set up in formation ready to patrol the streets of Chicago you all will be in sector 6 the most dangerous sector of Chicago but no need to worry we have full fledged firepower of 4 APC's which will Carrie your kill team to your objectives take as much time as needed the runners arent going any where. you will clear the sears tower area a hot spot for runners. look all you men and woman, its time to revolt and fight back. its time to say we will not be scared, we will not be intimidated, we will win back our freedom!!” the whole complex light up with cheer. As the two men in formal wear took out PDA's and started directing people to there kill teams the first man shouted “ Chavez,Williams,buck, and,Samson go to APC #1” I quickly advanced thru the crowd to APC 1 I slowed my pace and saw its matte paint job of digital camo and its pop up dillan machine gun turret mounted on top. I pounded on its steel behind and its back door unlatched I stood waiting for the rest of my team I saw all three walking in a line towards the door I saw him ,the man with the kriss super V he smiled at me and said “no fuckin way you tha yankee we picked up in tha alley way you mad cus we killed your little runner girlfriend” I sprung towards him and grabbed his collar and punched him in the stomach then elbowed him in the mouth all the color drained out of his face. “ if you wouldn't of shot me with a fucking bean bag I would of blown your brains out back at the alley” he looked at me and with blood dripping down his mouth “i was just doing my job. welcome to foxtrot 3 by my names john samson you can just call me hunter” I let him go and he limped into the APC then another walked towards me he wore a Grey baklava and tight fitting clothing and a vest that barely covered his chest which awkwardly bulged out he walked towards me and took off the mask. She looked at m surprised face and said “what ? a woman cant be in the military” “well I..I...I just did not expect to have such a high rank personnel on our team” she looked at me and frowend “were both specialists grade one my names Kelly williams” “a heavily armored male in a hijab walked towards me playfully he came up to me and pulled off his hijab he was a African American . “hey specialist now look Im basically here to keep the moral you catch me ? I was in the navy im Ricky buckman Just call me squid now what do you want to go by kid?” I smiled “echo” “nice choice” Albert “echo” chavez I thought in my head I figured that sounds good. We all jumped in the APC while a kill team of rangers in a heavy Humvee with a mounted sentry gun rolled behind us as the whole convoy of kill force 6 prepared for battle. I thought about all my training aim for the head,short controlled bursts a shot anywhere else just stunned them. They move fast so they have to be neutralized if you get bitten or infected kill yourself with the poison capsule that was given or a team mate would do it. I grabbed a Kukri blade off the weapon rack that was provided in the APC I looked at its razor sharp edge its brushed steel surface reflected no light I sheathed it and strapped it to my leg. I caught the eye of Kelly who was fiddling around with the UAV control panel she looked at me and smiled. The APC's lights blinked red prompting us that we are in a hot zone. The APC vibrated as the co pilot took out a pack of runners with the Dillon remote controlled mini gun. We all loaded our weapons and packed up some ammo. Hunter and squid looked at each other and they bumped fists. I put a clip in my ACR and cocked it I turned on the eotech scope and strapped on my helmet and then slid on a black baklava. The APC driver prompted a alarm which was the signal that the door was opening, the big metal door slowly lowered its platform to the ground and we all got out Kelly was the last one out she grabbed that control panel and slid it into her bag she ran out and flipped the close button on the APC. We met up with the four other teams in our sector who already exited there Humvee's. A black Humvee that I never knew was in the convoy rode up and a military adviser jumped out and barked orders like some scared little dog and then jumped back in glad that he wasn't us. He positioned eight snipers on the roof who where each divided into teams of four they zip lined up the roofs and soon each team where picked up by two little bird helicopters the rest of us where on the ground either Humvee calvary hit teams or long range grenade support foxtrot was positioned on the magnificent mile at least it was magnificent. We cautiously walked down the street with another team of 6 watching our back and little birds with snipers covering us and telling us where the nearest pack is. It was empty until we got a report a pack of twenty runners where heading straight for us about 3 blocks away we had about a minute to prepare, snipers took out some and only six broke there steady aim and where 5 feet away, I drew my weapon and just before I could fire a Humvee rammed half the pack of runners over my team shot at there heads to finish them off . I stunted back and fell startled by a runner with broken legs dragging its smelly corpse towards me, my team did not even notice as they where pre occupied with finishing off the pack it grabbed my boot and pulled itself onto my chest I pushed it back and hunter tackled it and shot it once it grazed its ear he then rad up to it and curb stomped its head in over and over, like an egg it crunched under his boot he then walked towards me and picked me up and then our comm's screeched with a danger code: sector red REPEAT SECTOR RED!! this is not a drill!! squid looked at Kelly “OH shit radio the APC radio the APC!!” Kelly hastily radioed the APC and it arrived around the corner ASAP she got in and took the panel out of her backpack all the rangers got back in there Humvee's and formed up a line of vehicle's and the APC was in front we all jumped in and squid popped open 3 of the four combat hatches. We took stance and poked our body's out of the hatches while Kelly was typing away at the panel. “Kelly get us that predator drone NOW!!” “on it Echo..about.....NOW!! get ready for some boom boom boys” she said over the comm a predator drone deployed from a building somewhere and roared across the city's night sky. The little birds shot flares into out immediate area and the military advisor said nervously over the comm “formation green zone ASAP make space for one more hummer!!” his hummer screeched into our circle formation at the middle of the block intersection. We all could hear the uproar and the screaming rage of the Runners it was 9:00 PM and my stomach dropped as runners came at us from every angle swarming in between all the vehicles as we took out as much as we can the advisor yelled. “Break formation head for lane 3 of sector 5 Kelly yelled “but thats a dead end we have no where to go !!” “exactly now MOVE !!” we hastily rammed out way thru the crowd of runners it was easily about 200 to 300 runners we reached the street which was a dead end it was blocked by a collapsed building from all the beach bombing runs. We waited for 5 minutes until we saw it our doom three times as much runners appeared and headed for the convoy. The driver looked bewildered “Get ready im breaking position” he advanced the APC towards the crowd its massive tires gripping the rubble and concrete so agile and quick. He opened fire the Dillon mini gun until there was not one round left. the APC swiveled madly like a dog chasing its tail, all the blood and body matter stuck to the tire made it impossible to control. The whole interior rocked forward on impact with the flipped car. suddenly a screech and the APC flipped over on its side. the runners ignored the APC and went for the group of Humvee's ripping the rangers out that had not locked there Humvee door and devouring them. We herd the screams despite layer after layer of Kevlar and Armour of the APC. My radio started to squawk. “ Pindad Panser down repeat,flipped on its side calling in little bird for support !! bring in UH-60 shadow for medivac ASAP!” I groaned in pain the impact was hard,i could taste blood in my mouth my world was spinning. my team mates did not move they where all laying face down. I soon passed out Chapter 5 delta crimson “Delta crimson GO GO GO !!” I awoke in a sweat, I felt normal again I wiped my blood crusted face off. I leaned up and saw them. “Squid Kelly Hunter Your all alive !” hunter smiled “the crowds not givin up. Hurry mate we got to get outta this APC or crimson is just gonna have to save us” Crimson was an elite rescue squad of some of the best rescue force members in the military marines,rangers,green berets, you name em they can save you. Suddenly we heard the roar of helicopters. Then the door of the APC light up and blew of its hinges a soldier in a crimson baklava shined a light me and my team he latched two metal hooks onto our APC and then the helicopter lifted us into the air, this vehicle the best attack helicopter crafted by the engineer crew over at Hudson base they called it the Shadow because thats all it was, a quick killer in the night. A man made machine manufactured to kill and thats what it was best at. I broke for the chopper and jumped in then squid then Kelly it started to take off right before it left ground hunter grabbed the bay door and climbed in. “forgetting something ?” He threw me my ACR bushmaster which started to look like the generals FN 2000 it was scuffed and marked in every crack and crease. A crimson medivac specialist handed us some refreshments and snacks he said he picked it up at his last raid. He gave me some meds, adrenalin shots use them as a last resort of energy he said. I looked at squid who was holding his dog tag “ man echo you see how that APC flipped on us I almost crapped my pant's” I laughed at the joke even if its not funny my team needs the moral. I looked it the pilot he caught my stare. “where going to the main objective” I sighed and looked away hunter looked at me and made some type of hand signal. “hey Kelly you think we could of died back there” “easily hunter luckily the runners did not find our APC interesting” I looked over at Kelly who was looking at the cracked screen of the control panel. “hey Kelly what all did you use that panel for” “i saved the whole platoon with this thing while you where taking a nap, now its gone and base is a long fly away. The screen broke when the APC flipped. And the predator drone crashed without me controlling it” “damn, nothing good ever lasts long does it” “well echo thats not true your still alive aren't you ?” I we both smiled and when the happiness broke it was back to work. chapter 6 Raid The shadow landed on the roof of a building about 3 blocks away from objective R.R.T.R (runner ruled territory raid) our forces had to kill all runners and take back the sears tower. Kelly was stationed on the roof with hundreds of other snipers .with her barret M82 which ripped into 2 to 3 runners at a time with its large caliber amour piercing rounds. Military advisors sent Ground troops they marched the streets for the main attack on the R.R.T (runner ruled territory). Soldiers of all pact creed and faction marched side by side. the ISF (Iraqi Security Forces) the IRA (Irish Republican Army) even the CIA and DEA forces were marching along with whole police precincts including the bulk of the U.S military. This battle was inevitable and we are going to win.

Topic by albylovesscience 9 years ago  |  last reply 7 years ago


Workshop Challenge: Plan It! (Official Rules)

PLEASE REVIEW THESE OFFICIAL RULES BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST.  ENTRANTS WHO ARE MINORS: YOU MUST OBTAIN THE CONSENT OF YOUR PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST. ENTRY TO THE CONTEST IS FREE AND NO PAYMENT OR PURCHASE IS NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN, EXCEPT FOR THE STANDARD CHARGES OF YOUR INTERNET ACCESS PROVIDER. A PAYMENT OR PURCHASE WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW. BY ENTERING THE CONTEST YOU ACKNOWLEDGE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND AGREE TO THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE INSTRUCTABLES TERMS OF SERVICE AND PRIVACY POLICY   SECTION A – SPECIFIC TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST Sponsor. The Instructables Workshop Challenge: Plan It! is an on-line contest with skill, ability and knowledge components that is sponsored by Autodesk, Inc., a Delaware corporation having its principal office at 111 McInnis Parkway, San Rafael, CA 94103, USA (“Sponsor”), in connection with the Instructables service and website, www.instructables.com, (the “Sponsor Site”). The Contest is co-sponsored by the company or companies listed here, if any (each, a “Co-Sponsor”): [None]. The Contest is governed by these Official Rules (these “Rules”). For any questions regarding the Contest, the Sponsor may be contacted by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 (“Winner’s List; Mailing List”) below. Overview; Object of the Contest. The object of the Contest is to produce and submit projects that are built from, or involve, plans, schematics, diagrams, or printed instruction in some way.  These plans must come from, or have originated by a computer drafting program of some sort.  Projects that meet the Criteria (as described in Section A.8 [“Judging”] below) and are submitted in accordance with the format, content and other requirements identified in Section A.5 (“How to Enter”) below. All currency value references in these Official Rules are to United States Dollars, Euros, and British Pounds Sterling as indicated. Eligibility. THE CONTEST IS OPEN ONLY TO NATURAL PERSONS WHO, AT THE TIME OF ENTRY, ARE REGISTERED MEMBERS OF THE SITE, WHO ARE AT LEAST FOURTEEN (14) YEARS OLD AND ARE LEGAL RESIDENTS OF THE 50 UNITED STATES (INCLUDING THE DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA BUT EXCLUDING PUERTO RICO), CANADA (EXCLUDING THE PROVINCE OF QUEBEC, CANADA), UNITED KINGDOM, AUSTRALIA, BELGIUM, CHINA, THE NETHERLANDS. If on the Start Date you are a “minor,” meaning that you are under the age of majority in your jurisdiction (currently 18 or 19 in most U.S. states, and provinces of Canada and Australia; 18 in Belgium, China, and, for the UK, 16 in Scotland and 18 in most other parts of the United Kingdom), you must obtain permission from your parent or legal guardian, and your parent or legal guardian must consent to be bound by these Rules as if he or she were an entrant, before you submit an entry. Sponsor reserves the right to require minors to submit proof of parental/guardian permission and consent to these Rules at any time, without which they may be immediately disqualified from the Contest. Certain individuals are excluded from eligibility to enter or win, as described in Section B below. No purchase or payment is necessary to enter the Contest, and no purchase or payment, including choosing to purchase any “Instructables Pro” or other paid membership to the Sponsor Site will improve your chances of winning in any way. Deadline. The Contest begins at 12:00 a.m. Pacific Standard Time (PT)/8:00 a.m. GMT/9:00 a.m. CEST/4:00p.m. CST (China Standard Time), on Monday May 14th, 2012 (the “Start Date”). Entries for the Contest must be received by Sponsor by no later than 11:59 p.m. PT May 28th, 2012 7:59am (the “Deadline”). (GMT + 1 hour for Belgium, the Netherlands, GMT+ 8 hours for China). How to Enter. All entries must comply with the entry requirements identified in these Rules (including in this Section and in Section B below), as well as with any specific formatting or content requirements identified in Section A.2 above or on the "How to Enter" page https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Kit-Design-Challenge/ for the Contest on the Sponsor Site. It is each entrant's responsibility to ensure compliance with those requirements. To enter a new project in the Contest, follow these steps: First document your project in the Step-by-Step or Photo Instructable format. When your project is ready to be published to the Sponsor Site, visit the Sponsor Site and follow the instructions for publishing your project to the Sponsor Site.  You must be a registered user of the Sponsor Site in order to publish a project to the Sponsor Site. If you are not already a registered user of the Sponsor Site, you will be prompted to create an account on the Sponsor Site during the publication process. Please note: in some jurisdictions, the publication of your project on the Sponsor Site could materially affect rights (e.g., adversely affect patent rights), you may own in the project.  You should make your own inquiries and seek your own advice on this issue. When you have published your project to the Sponsor Site, if you have reviewed the entry requirements for the Contest, believe your project qualifies for entry, and want to enter it in the Contest, leave a comment on the Contest page, and include a link to your published Instructable. Instructable must be published during the Contest period. You may not enter the same Instructables project in more than three (3) Instructables contests in total. Projects published prior to the Start Date are not eligible for entry.  You may not register the same Instructables project in more than three (3) Instructables contests in total. Further information about entry can be found in Section B below. Winner Selection. There will be a possible 1,000 total winner(s) for the Contest. The winner(s) will be selected on or around May 31st, 2012.  Each winner will be awarded only the prize(s) for which that winner was selected, as described below. Prize(s). The prize(s) to be awarded in the Contest is/are as follows: Tier #1: If there are at least 10 but no more than 25 entries, the winner will be awarded a digital calipers, prize package including a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt.  Retail value $75.00 US Dollars. Tier #2: If there are at least 25 but no more than 49 entries, the entrant with the highest judges’ score will be awarded a prize package including a leatherman wave tool, a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt. Retail value $115.00 US Dollars.   The 3 entrants with the next highest judges’ scores will each be awarded a digital calipers, a version of the winner's kit, and a prize package including a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt. Retail value $75.00 US Dollars. Tier #3: If there are at least 50 but no more than 99 entries, the entrant with the highest judges’ score will be awarded a Lithium Ion Drill and Impact Wrench Set, a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt. Retail value $240.00 US Dollars. The entrants with the next 3 highest judges’ scores will each be awarded a leatherman juice, a version of the winner's kit, and a prize package including a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt.  Retail value $115.00 US Dollars. Tier #4: If there are 100 or more eligible entries, the entrant with the highest judges’ score will be awarded a an apple iPad 2, a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt. Retail value $500.00 US Dollars.  The entrants with the next 5 highest judges’ scores will each be awarded a leatherman juice, a version of the winner's kit, and a prize package including a 1-year Instructables Pro membership, a Sugru sample pack, and an Instructables robot t-shirt.  Retail value $115.00 US Dollars. Any awarded prizes will be provided to a winner only after the winner has signed a Winner's Declaration and Release. Sponsor's current Winner's Declaration and Release for the Contest may be obtained upon request by contacting Sponsor by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 ("Winner's List; Mailing List") below. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for complying with any and all applicable federal, state, provincial, local or other statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations relating to the prizes and for bearing any personal income, VAT, withholding taxes, customs duties, or other taxes, fees, insurance, surcharges or other costs relating to receiving, claiming or collecting any prize. Without limitation, for residents subject to tax obligations under the People's Republic of China, the winner shall be responsible for reporting his or her individual income tax generated from the prize to relevant Chinese tax authorities on his or her own and shall then submit the Sponsor a tax payment proof showing the tax is fully paid. If the winner fails to submit the aforementioned proof within a reasonable period of time as required by the Sponsor, the Sponsor reserves the right to disqualify the winner from entitlement to the prize. All prizes that are items or services which are subject to third party terms and conditions or restrictions, acceptance and use of the prizes are subject to all eligibility criteria, expiration dates, service or dormancy fees, and all other terms and conditions (if any) imposed by the issuer of such items or services, which are available on the Prizes page https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Kit-Design Challenge/ for the Contest. Please be aware that Contest prizes may not be usable or function properly in certain countries and Sponsor has no knowledge relating to the use or functionality of such prizes in those countries. Use or operation of prizes in certain countries may require additional parts, components or adapters, and Sponsor has no knowledge of any such requirements or any responsibility for obtaining any such parts, components or adapters. In addition, certain countries may prohibit the use or operation of the prizes, in whole or in part, and Sponsor has no knowledge regarding, and shall have no responsibility for determining, whether the winner(s) are permitted to operate or use the prizes in any particular country.   Judging. All entries that are in compliance with all terms and conditions of these Rules will be judged on the basis of the following criteria (the "Criteria"): originality, usefulness, simplicity, production readiness, manufacturing cost, and clarity of instructions, each of which will be given equal weight. Sponsor will decide who judges.  Further information on the steps and process of voting and judging can be found in Section B below. Size of Entry Pool. Winning entries will be selected by the Judges in accordance with the Criteria as described in these Rules. The chances of any entry winning a prize depend on the number of eligible entries received between the Start Date and the Deadline and the quality of that entry as compared to the other eligible entries, as evaluated by the Judges in the manner described above. Sponsor does not know in advance the number of eligible entries that will be received. The number of entries received, and the number of winners chosen, in prior contests of Sponsor, including the three (3) most recently completed contests, can be found through the "Contests" page of the Sponsor Site, which can be found here [instructables.com/contest]. The number of eligible entries for Sponsor's recently completed contests generally has ranged from approximately forty (40) to approximately six-hundred fifty (650), and generally has averaged approximately one-hundred fifty (150), but Sponsor cannot predict or guarantee any specific number of eligible entries for the Contest. SECTION B – ADDITIONAL TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST   General Conditions. By entering the Contest, each entrant agrees to abide by the terms of these Rules and by the decisions of Sponsor and the Judges, which shall be made in all cases in their sole and absolute discretion and are final and binding on all matters relating to the Contest. These Rules are a legally binding contract, with equivalent effect to a private contract between each entrant and Sponsor. The Contest is void where prohibited by law The Contest is governed by Sponsor's Terms [https://www.instructables.com/tos.html] and Privacy Policy [https://www.instructables.com/about/privacy.jsp]and other policies (collectively, the “Policies”) pertaining to the Sponsor Site, although the Rules will govern any conflict between the Rules and the Sponsor’s Terms or the Rules and the Privacy Policy. Exclusions from Eligibility. Employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, or their respective parents, subsidiaries, affiliates, partners, suppliers, or advertising or promotional agencies (including without limitation any Judges who are employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates), as well as members of their households or their immediate families (i.e., spouses, parents and children), may submit entries in the Contest, but any such entries are for information and entertainment purposes only and are not eligible to be considered for the purpose of selecting finalists or winners. Judges who are not employees of Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor or any of their respective parents, subsidiaries, or affiliates, are not eligible to enter or win, nor are members of their households or their immediate families (i.e., spouses, parents and children). Notwithstanding the foregoing, Sponsor shall have no liability to any entrant or any other person in the event that Sponsor inadvertently awards a prize to any non-eligible person(s). In addition, each entrant acknowledges and accepts that Sponsor may be prohibited by applicable law from permitting entry by or awarding a prize to any person falling into one or more of the following prohibited categories: (a) a national or resident of Cuba, Iran, Iraq, Libya, North Korea, Sudan, Syria or any other country for which trade with the United States has been prohibited or restricted by any statute, regulation, order, rule, treaty, or other law of the United States or any other applicable jurisdiction in any manner that would prevent the awarding or delivery of any prize to the entrant; (b) a person on the U.S. Table of Denial Orders, Entity List, List of Specially Designated Nationals and Blocked Persons, or any other similar list of any applicable jurisdiction, or any person affiliated with any person or entity on any such list; (c) an official or representative of any foreign government; or (d) any other person to whom the awarding or delivery of any prize would violate any applicable statute, regulation, order, rule, treaty, or other law or any of Sponsor's policies (See: https://www.instructables.com/about/privacy.jsp). If an entrant falls into any of the above prohibited categories, such entrant is not eligible to win any prizes. Entry. Multiple entries are permitted, but only one entry per entrant can win a prize in the Contest. Entrants must be registered members of the Sponsor Site to enter the Contest. Registering for a Sponsor Site membership account for purposes of entering the Contest is free of charge. Entries can be the work of more than one person, but for purposes of the Contest, each entry will belong to the “Primary Author” named in the entry, regardless of the number of contributors to that entry. For winning entries, Sponsor will award the applicable prize to the named entrant only, except in the case of a minor, to such minor’s named parent or legal guardian only unless specific consent from such parent or legal guardian to award the prize to such minor in accordance has been obtained by way of a duly signed Winner’s Declaration and Release (See Section A.7 above), and will not be responsible or liable for apportioning any prize among contributors to a winning entry. Upon submission, all entries become subject to the Policies (including without limitation the provisions regarding ownership and use of user submissions as stated in Sponsor’s Terms [https://www.instructables.com/tos.html]) and further described in Section B.15 (“Advertising and Marketing”). Notwithstanding the foregoing, entries to the Contest shall only be valid after the entry is accepted by Sponsor, and its acceptance occurs at Sponsor’s location in the United States.  Entries will not be acknowledged or returned. Entrants are permitted to modify or update an entry after submission, but are not permitted to do so after the Deadline. Entries may remain posted on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site indefinitely following the Deadline, but Sponsor reserves the right to delete entries from the Contest page after the Contest ends, in its discretion, and Sponsor reserves the right to delete entries from the Contest page and other pages of the Sponsor Site, at any time in its discretion, if such entries infringe or may infringe any third party’s rights. Entries may not be created or submitted through any software-generated, robotic, programmed, script, macro, or other automated method. Sponsor and Co-Sponsor will have no responsibility for, and will have the right to refuse in its discretion, any entries that have been tampered with, or entries that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible, whether due to Internet or e-mail server failure or otherwise. Proof of transmission of an entry shall not constitute proof of receipt. It is each entrant’s responsibility to keep Sponsor informed of any changes to entrant’s contact or other information during the Contest. Use of Personal Information. Registering for an account with the Sponsor Site, which is required to enter the Contest, may require each entrant to submit entrant’s name, e-mail address, age or date of birth, and other contact details, and in the case of a minor, contact details for a parent or legal guardian for purposes of obtaining proof of parental consent, if Sponsor elects to do so. For further information concerning how Sponsor handles personal information, as well as provisions on confidentiality and the cases in which Sponsor may be entitled to disclose entrant’s information to third parties or upon request of an authority, consult Sponsor’s Privacy Policy [https://www.instructables.com/about/privacy.jsp], which is incorporated herein. Additional Entry Requirements. Each entry must comply in all respects with the Policies, including without limitation all requirements for user submissions, as stated in the Terms and Conditions of Use [https://www.instructables.com/tos.html] for the Sponsor Site. Without limiting that requirement, each entry also must comply with the following: Each entry must be entirely the original work of the persons identified in the entry; If persons other than the entrant have contributed to an entry, the entrant must have the written permission from each contributor prior to submitting the entry; Entries must not have been published prior to the Start Date; Entries must not have been entered in more than two other contests of Sponsor; Entries must not contain anything that is or may be: (i) threatening, harassing, degrading or hateful; (ii) defamatory; (iii) fraudulent or tortious; (iv) obscene, indecent or otherwise objectionable; (v) deemed to cause feelings of disharmony, enmity, hatred or hostility between different religious or racial groups; (vi) protected by copyright, trademark, patents, utility models, design patents or other proprietary right without the express prior written consent of the owner of such right; or (vii) dangerous or potentially dangerous, or that would encourage dangerous behavior from viewers, such as use of explosives and/or harmful substances; or (vii) contrary to governmental policies of any country whose residents are eligible to enter the Contest. Entries must provide proper safety instructions, as applicable, such as with respect to the use of knives, cutting devices and other tools; and Entries must not contain any material that would give rise to criminal or civil liability or that encourages conduct that constitutes a criminal offense. Judging Process. The winner(s) will be determined by the Judges, who will apply the Criteria to evaluate entries. The entries with the highest score(s) will be selected as the winner(s), and the number and type of winners will be as identified in Section A above. The Judges have the right to disqualify any entry that is not in compliance with these Rules, in the Judges' discretion. In the event that a winning entry is disqualified, the next-highest scoring entry will be selected as the alternate winner.  In the event that one or more of the identified Judges is unavailable, Sponsor reserves the right to substitute Judges of comparable qualification, to be determined by Sponsor in its discretion. The Contest is entirely skill-based and contains no elements based on chance. The standards applied during the judging process focuses on assessing each entry’s properties. By the mere submission of an entry, an entrant acquires no automatic right to be awarded a prize, nor any other right except for the right to have such entry reviewed and evaluated subject to these Rules.   Prize Terms. All values are stated in United States Dollars, Euros and British Pounds Sterling, as indicated. If a stated prize is unavailable, Sponsor has the right to substitute one or more items of equal or greater value, in its discretion. No prize is, and the winner(s) have no right to claim that any prize is, exchangeable, transferable, or redeemable for cash. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for all expenses related to the receipt and use of all prize(s) other than those expenses expressly included in the description of the prize(s) in Section A above. The winner(s) will be solely responsible for complying with any and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations and for bearing any personal income, VAT, withholding taxes, customs duties, or other taxes, fees, insurance, surcharges or other costs relating to receiving, claiming or collecting any prize.   Winner(s) are hereby informed of the liability to pay all taxes on the prize(s) received; such taxes shall be paid by the winner(s). Each winner shall be responsible for reporting his or her individual income tax generated from the prize to relevant tax authorities on his or her own and, for residents subject to tax obligations on the prize by any country, shall promptly submit to Sponsor a tax payment proof showing that such tax has been fully paid. If the winner fails to submit such proof within a reasonable period of time as required by Sponsor, Sponsor reserves the right to disqualify the winner from entitlement to the prize and the winner shall be deemed to have waived his or her right to claim the prize and shall be further obligated, upon Sponsor’s request, to return the prize to Sponsor at his or her own cost. THE PRIZE(S) WILL BE GIVEN AWAY BY SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSOR(S) “AS IS.” SPONSOR AND ANY CO-SPONSORS DO NOT MAKE, AND EXPRESSLY DISCLAIM, ANY WARRANTY, WHETHER EXPRESS, IMPLIED, OR STATUTORY, REGARDING ANY PRIZE OR PORTION THEREOF, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY IMPLIED OR STATUTORY WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY, FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, TITLE, OR NON-INFRINGEMENT. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OF IMPLIED WARRANTIES, CONSUMER GUARANTEES AND SIMILAR RIGHTS, IN WHICH CASE SUCH EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. WITHOUT LIMITATION, TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, ALL WARRANTIES AND REPRESENTATIONS, IN RELATION TO THE PRIZES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED BY STATUTE, LAW (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, COMMON LAW, IF APPLICABLE), RULE, REGULATION, OR OTHERWISE, ARE HEREBY EXCLUDED. Announcement; Award of Prize(s). The winner(s) will be notified by e-mail within seven (7) days of selection. The winner(s) (and, if a winner is a minor, the winner’s parent or legal guardian) may be required to sign a Winner’s Declaration and Release which includes a declaration of eligibility, grant of publicity rights and a liability release, to the extent not prohibited by law, prior to receipt of a prize. The prize(s) will be awarded by way of delivery to Winner’s designated valid delivery address set forth on the Winner’s Declaration and Release. Unless otherwise specified in Section A, and provided that direct shipment costs by mail or parcel post (expressly excluding import duties and other duties or taxes, which are the winner’s sole responsibility) to Winner’s designated valid delivery address shall be borne by Sponsor, provided, however, if delivery is declined or fails by reason of winner’s failure to timely accept receipt or pay appropriate import duties and other duties or taxes) then the winner will be deemed to have declined acceptance of the prize and Sponsor reserves the right to reclaim the prize whereupon the prize will be returned to Sponsor and winner will no longer be eligible to receive the prize. The winner(s) may be required to provide Sponsor with a social security number, taxpayer identification number, or other identification or account number (if applicable) for tax purposes, and will provide Sponsor with all other information as may be required for Sponsor to comply with all applicable laws in connection with the award of any prize(s) to the winner(s). The winner(s) also may be required to provide Sponsor with proof that he or she is the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address associated with the winning entry. An “Authorized Account Holder” is the natural person who is assigned to an e-mail address by an Internet access provider or other organization responsible for assigning e-mail addresses to the domain associated with an e-mail address. In the event of a dispute, an entry will be deemed to have been submitted by the Authorized Account Holder of the e-mail address submitted at the time of entry. Failure to respond to a winner announcement, or return any required declarations or releases within fourteen (14) days (or any longer time specified by Sponsor in the applicable winner announcement) or to comply with any of the foregoing may result in disqualification and the selection of an alternate winner. It is Sponsor’s policy to assist U.S. government employees in meeting their obligations under their standards of ethical conduct; any prize(s) won in violation of those Standards should not be accepted and should be returned at Sponsor’s expense or destroyed. Without limitation, Sponsor shall not be liable for any failure to deliver any prizes due to any winner’s failure to accept delivery, to meet any of his or her obligations hereunder or due to the submission of any false, inaccurate or misleading information. Representations. By entering the Contest, each entrant represents and warrants that: (a) the entrant meets all eligibility requirements of the Contest; (b) in entering and participating in the Contest, the entrant has complied and will comply in all respects with these Rules, the Policies, and all applicable statutes, laws (including, without limitation, common law, if applicable), rules and regulations; and (c) the information provided in the entrant’s entry, including without limitation all contact information, is true, accurate, and complete in all respects. Assumption of Risk. By taking any action to create an entry for the Contest, each entrant, on his or her own behalf and on behalf of his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns, acknowledges and agrees that: (a) ENTRANT AND HIS OR HER PERSONAL REPRESENTATIVES, HEIRS, EXECUTORS, AND ASSIGNS HAVE THE SOLE RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE CREATION OF THE ENTRY, WHICH IS DESIGNED AND CREATED BY THE ENTRANT FOLLOWING HIS OR HER OWN DECISION AND INITIATIVE DEPENDINGG ON THE WAY, IN HIS OR HER SOLE DISCRETION ENTERANT DECIDES TO CREATE SUCH ENTRY, AND EVEN THOUGHT THE CONTEST DOES NOT REQUIRE OR OTHERWISE ENCOURAGE DANGEROUS BEHAVIOR, THERE MAY BE DANGER AND RISK OF BODILY INJURY, DEATH, OR PROPERTY DAMAGE INVOLVED IN CREATING AN ENTRY; (b) THESE RISKS AND DANGERS MAY ARISE FROM FORESEEABLE OR UNFORESEEABLE CAUSES; (c) SUCH ENTRANT AND HIS OR HER PERSONAL REPRESENTATIVES, HEIRS, EXECUTORS, AND ASSIGNS ASSUME ALL RISKS AND RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY PERSONAL INJURY, DEATH, PROPERTY DAMAGE, OR OTHER LOSS ARISING OUT OF THE CREATION OF ANY ENTRY, WHETHER CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE OR ANY OTHER CAUSE; and (d) Subject to applicable law, such entrant and his or her personal representatives, heirs, executors, and assigns are relinquishing any and all rights he, she, or they now have or may have in the future to sue or take any other action against Sponsor, any Co-Sponsor, the prize manufacturers, any other entities involved in the administration of the Contest, each of their respective parents, subsidiaries, and affiliates, and each of their respective officers, directors, employees, agents, and representatives (the “Sponsor Parties”) on the basis of any injury, death, damage, or other loss that may be suffered arising from any action taken in the creation of any entry, including but not limited to claims based on allegations of negligence by any of the Sponsor Parties or use of any machinery or materials. Without limitation, Sponsor Parties shall have no liability to any entrant or any other person in the event the entry or any acts or omissions of the entrant violates any of these Rules. Release. To the maximum extent permitted by law, by entering the Contest, each entrant releases and holds harmless the Sponsor Parties from any and all responsibility, liability, damages (including, without limitation, direct, indirect, incidental, consequential, punitive, statutory, and other damages), losses, costs, or expenses of any kind arising out of or relating to: (a) entry or participation in the Contest, including but not limited to disputes among individuals claiming to have contributed to any winning entry; (b) any violation by the entrant of these Rules, the Policies, or applicable laws; (c) misappropriation, infringement, or other violation of any copyright, trademark, patent, trade secret, right of publicity, privacy, or other legal or contractual right of any person attributable to entrant or any entry submitted by entrant; (d) the acceptance, possession, receipt, or use of any prize or any item purchased with any prize (e.g., if the prize includes a gift card); (e) any entries or votes that have been tampered with or that are misdirected, incomplete, non-conforming, corrupt, lost, late, or ineligible; (f) any problems or technical malfunctions (including but not limited to errors, omissions, interruptions, deletions, defects, or delays in operation or transmission) of any computer, telephone, modem, cable, satellite, network, hardware, online system, server, software, or other equipment or provider, including any incorrect, incomplete, garbled or jumbled information resulting therefrom; (g) any Internet traffic congestion or website accessibility or delays; (h) printing or typographical errors in any Contest-related materials; or (i) any other technical or human error that may occur in connection with the Contest (the “Causes”).  If anyone makes any claim against any of the Sponsor Parties arising out of or relating to any of the Causes attributable to the entrant, the entrant will pay for any damages, losses, liabilities, costs, penalties, and expenses, including without limitation attorneys’ and experts’ fees and costs, incurred in connection with such claim. WITHOUT LIMITING THE GENERALITY OF THE FOREGOING, THE SPONSOR PARTIES SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY LOST PROFITS OR ANY SPECIAL, INCIDENTAL, INDIRECT, PUNITIVE, EXEMPLARY, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF THE CONTEST, HOWSOEVER CAUSED, WHETHER ARISING IN STATUTE, TORT (INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, NEGLIGENCE) CONTRACT, OTHER LEGAL THEORY OR OTHERWISE, AND ALL SUCH DAMAGES ARE HEREBY DISCLAIMED AND EXCLUDED. SOME JURISDICTIONS MAY NOT ALLOW THE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION OF LIABILITY FOR DAMAGES AND OTHER LIABILITY (INCLUDING INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES) IN WHICH CASE SUCH LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION SHALL APPLY ONLY TO THE FULLEST EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, RULE, STATUTE OR REGULATION IN THE RELEVANT JURISDICTION. NOTHING IN THESE TERMS EXCLUDE LIABILITY FOR FRAUD, OR FOR PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH CAUSED BY NEGLIGENCE TO THE EXTENT SUCH EXCLUSION IS PROHIBITED BY APPLICABLE LAW. Misconduct. Sponsor reserves the right, in its discretion, to disqualify any entrant who: (a) tampers with the entry or voting process, the operation of the Contest, the Sponsor Site, or affiliated websites; (b) acts in an unsporting or disruptive manner, or with intent to annoy or harass another person; or (c) is otherwise in violation of these Rules, the Policies, or any applicable laws. Termination. Sponsor reserves the right to suspend, modify, or terminate the Contest at any time for any reason, in its discretion, including without limitation in the event of fraud, abuse, tampering, technical, administrative, financial, or other difficulties. In such cases, Sponsor will post a notice on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site. Should the Contest terminate prior to selection of the winner, Sponsor will announce an alternate means of awarding the prize on the Contest page of the Sponsor Site. Any entrant may withdraw from the Contest at any time by contacting Sponsor by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 (“Winner’s List; Mailing List”) specifying the name of this Contest and any other relevant information.   Advertising and Marketing. By entering the Contest, and in consideration of Sponsor’s potential review and evaluation of his or her entry, each entrant grants to Sponsor the non-exclusive right to use his or her entry as provided in the Policies, including without limitation the provisions of the Terms and Conditions of Use [https://www.instructables.com/tos.html] regarding ownership and use of user submissions. WITHOUT LIMITING THE FOREGOING, TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY LAW, BY ENTERING THE CONTEST, EACH ENTRANT CONSENTS, AND WARRANTS THAT IT HAS OBTAINED THE LEGALLY-BINDING WRITTEN CONSENT OR OTHER LEGALLY BINDING AUTHORIZATION (INCLUDING WITH REGARD TO THE USE AND MANAGEMENT OF COPYRIGHTS IN ALL CREATED CONTENT) OF EVERY CONTRIBUTOR TO THE ENTRY (INDIVIDUALS WHOSE NAME, LIKENESS, PROPERTY, RESULTS AND PROCEEDS APPEAR IN THE ENTRY), TO THE USE BY SPONSOR, ANY CO-SPONSOR, OR ANY THIRD PARTY CHOSEN BY SPONSOR OR ANY CO-SPONSOR, OF ANY AND ALL INFORMATION (INCLUDING PERSONAL INFORMATION), DRAWINGS, TEXT, PHOTOS, IMAGES, VOICES, VIDEOS, OR OTHER MATERIAL CONTAINED IN AN ENTRY OR OTHERWISE PROVIDED BY SUCH ENTRANT RELATED TO THE CONTEST FOR ADVERTISING AND MARKETING PURPOSES. Otherwise, each entrant retains whatever rights it may have in each entry to the extent provided in the Policies. The Sponsor, at its discretion, may require entrants to provide evidence of such written consents or other legally binding authorization. To the maximum extent permitted by law, by accepting a prize, a winner consents on his or her own behalf, to the print and online publication of the winner’s user name, stated country of residence and winning entry as part of the official winner’s list on the Instructables Site (and to submit this information, along with the winner’s first and last name, address , phone, email or other contact information to governmental agencies if required by applicable laws) without additional compensation other than the consideration specified in this Section 15 (Advertising and Marketing) for the entire protection term of the rights concerned and for all methods and means of exploitation. Each entrant and any other contributor whose personal information is being so used by Sponsor may request access to his or her personal information held by Sponsor and that Sponsor correct the data if it is inaccurate or delete the data if Sponsor is not required to retain it by law or for legitimate business purposes. Access, correction, deletion requests or withdrawal of consents can be made by contacting Sponsor by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 (“Winner’s List; Mailing List”), however, no consents will apply retroactively to any entrant’s personal information used prior to Sponsor’s receipt of any consent withdrawal. Other than as set forth herein, Sponsor will treat any personal information supplied by entrants in connection with the Contest in accordance with Sponsor’s Privacy Policy [https://www.instructables.com/about/privacy.jsp], as modified by these Rules. Governing Law; Dispute Resolution. By entering the Contest, entrants agree that these Rules will be governed by and construed in accordance with the laws of (a) Switzerland if the entrant’s principal place of residence is in a country in Europe, Africa or the Middle East, (b) Singapore if the entrant’s principal place of residence is in a country in Asia, Oceania or the Asia-Pacific region, or (c) the State of California (and, to the extent controlling, the federal laws of the United States) if the entrant’s principal place of residence is in a country in the Americas (including the Caribbean) or any other country not specified in this Section 16 (Governing Law; Dispute Resolution); provided, however, that in respect of all claims, actions and disputes brought by any of the Sponsor Parties, these Rules and shall be governed by and construed in accordance with the laws of the State of California (and, to the extent controlling, the federal laws of the United States). The laws of such jurisdictions shall govern without reference to the conflicts-of-laws rules thereof. The UN Convention on Contracts for the International Sale of Goods and the Uniform Computer Information Transaction Act shall not apply to (and are excluded from the laws governing) these Rules. In addition, by entering the Contest, entrants agree that any claim, action or dispute arising under or relating to this Agreement will be brought exclusively in (and the parties will be subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of) the Superior Court of the State of California, County of Marin, or the United States District Court for the Northern District of California in San Francisco, except that (other than with respect to claims, actions or disputes brought by any of the Sponsor Parties) if the entrant’s principal place of residence is in (a) a country in Europe, Africa or the Middle East, any such claim or dispute will be brought exclusively in (and the parties will be subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of) the courts of Switzerland, or (b) a country in Asia, Oceania or the Asia-Pacific region, any such claim or dispute will be brought exclusively in (and the parties will be subject to the exclusive jurisdiction of) the courts of Singapore. By entering the Contest, each entrant submits to the jurisdiction of those courts and waives any objection to those courts, whether on the basis of jurisdiction, venue, inconvenience of the forum, or otherwise.  Notwithstanding anything to the contrary, nothing will prevent any of the Sponsor Parties from bringing an action for infringement of intellectual property rights in any country where such infringement is alleged to occur. Miscellaneous. If any part of these Rules is held by a court of competent jurisdiction to be invalid, illegal, or otherwise unenforceable, such part will be modified by such court to the minimum extent necessary to make it enforceable while preserving to the maximum extent possible the original intent of and the remaining parts of these Rules will remain in full force and effect. Nothing contained herein or in any of the Contest related materials should be construed as an endorsement by Sponsor of any Co-Sponsor, or of Sponsor or any Co-Sponsor of any third party, product, or service. Notwithstanding anything to the contrary, Sponsor may decline to process requests that are unreasonable or unreasonably repetitive. Winner’s List; Mailing List. The user name(s) and entries of the Contest winner(s) will be posted on the Contest page https://www.instructables.com/id/The-Kit-Design-Challenge/ of the Sponsor Site, within fourteen (14) days of the Deadline. In addition, the names of the winner(s) may be obtained by sending a written request and a self-addressed, stamped envelope to the below address (mailed requests must include the words “WINNER’S LIST” and the full name of the Contest prominently in the first line of the address): Instructables 82 2nd St. San Francisco, California 94105 USA or by contacting Sponsor by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in above. All requests must include the words “WINNER’S LIST” and the full name of the Contest prominently in the subject line or in the voicemail, as the case may be.   All such requests must be received within six (6) months of the Deadline. Sponsor’s telephone number for Contest purposes is (01-510-473-7626). Entrants who opt to join Sponsor’s electronic mailing list agree to be contacted by email by Sponsor. Requests for removal from Sponsor’s mailing list may be made as instructed in any such email, or by sending a written request and a self-addressed, stamped envelope to “Instructables Mailing List” at the above address, by calling the above telephone number, or as otherwise indicated on the Sponsor Site. Residents of Vermont may omit return postage on winner’s list and mailing list requests.   © 2012 Autodesk, Inc. All rights reserved. INSTRUCTABLES is a registered trademark or trademark in the United States of Autodesk, Inc. Other brands may be trademarks of their respective owners.

Topic by noahw 7 years ago