Search for elbow in Topics


Arm tendinitis, arthritis of the elbow....any advice ?

Hi all, I have been struggling lately with two problems:   #1: tendinitis of my lower right arm and wrist #2: arthritis of the right elbow.  The doc believes both are aggravated by overuse of the mouse (actually resting my hand on it an entire work shift, plus the time I spend on line at home).  The first thing I must do, of course, is unlearn the behavior and remove my hand when I am not actually USING the mouse.  This hasn't been very successful so far.  Does anyone have any further suggestion on how to "rest" the arm and still be able to go to work and work a bit at home?  Anything serious will be considered.    

Topic by Goodhart  


No Knexing for a while

I was planning on posting about 4-5 new 'Ibles but yesterday I fractured my elbow  and split my shoulder joint, therefore rendering me useless. It will be 2 months untill they will be done but i assure you it will be worth waiting for.

Topic by Tom Buckey    |  last reply



How could one make merperson-like elbow pieces? Answered

In many myths mermaids and mermen, sea people, nymphs river lords and ladies, and ocean gods and godesses have fin-like flaps of skin on their elbows to help them move through the water. If anyone knows how to make this or where to buy it, please tell.

Question by NicOmbra    |  last reply


which stretchable conductive fabric to be used for elbow joint movements?

I am working on human posture detection using stretchable conductive fabric .i am currently using eoentyx stretchable fabric and jersey conductive fabric but it is not showing much variations so please suggest me which fabric to be used for this application. i have read papers that ppy coated fabrics are good for it . which i am using is very sensitive  and there is no constant increase or decrease in resistance.after washing also it gives reading of huge difference. https://www.tanotis.com/products/sparkfun-eeontex-conductive-stretchable-fabric?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi97NBRD1ARIsAPXVWWAjOVpJlmVfjxULdvjhI_7v-dGI4plgZtfPhkkjdEeANLk9acYoHVUaAmo8EALw_wcB&variant;=42402339152

Question by PrincyR    |  last reply


Remote pole raiser?

Need to raise a 10 lbs, 30" pole from horizontal to vertical with one click and back with click. Very basic one direction car wiper or human elbow movement. It does not matter the mechanism used: motors, gears, springs and mechanical or electric locks as long as it is reliable and cheap. The mechanism plus transmitter, battery and charger cannot exceed $90. Used to raise and lower a sign.

Question by groupo14    |  last reply


How do you measure the Cubic inches of a curved tube or pipe. Like a 4" PVC Elbow? Answered

 I have an air cannon and want to know how much it holds

Question by jj.inc    |  last reply


Is my video working ?

Hi guys ! Yesterdai I've uploaded my video here but I can not find it in the recently added section ! So.... is this working ? https://www.instructables.com/id/Elbow-Thigh-Regen--Andre-Teno/ ThanksAndre

Topic by And.Teno    |  last reply


health questions? Answered

Hey heres just some general health questions i have for anyone out there and dont judge, i am simply just asking for help alright so i am 15 and i am 6'2" tall and 145lbs with a pretty good diet if that pertains to any questions. first question: on my fingernails i have little white marks that show up all the time its like if i damaged my nails but i didn't and they are very random and mostly show up on my right hand only, second question: my left eye has what looks like a popped blood vessel and its been like that for about a year and it doesn't go away  every so often it varies, for example it will be kinda pinkish in the area then the next day it will be dark red, what is this?, third question: my feet naturally go out when i walk and stand they look like this:\/ with the point being my heels how can i fix this, fourth question: whenever i work out, my right elbow gets symptoms of tennis elbow and when im doing curls my elbow hurts severely on the way down but it doesn't hurt when im bringing up the weight, also my right elbow will lock up: for example i will be writing in school and my elbow will suddenly freeze, it doesn't hurt that bad it just is annoying and i will have to swing my arm for it to get unstuck and continue writing, what is this and how can i fix it? fifth question: if i scratch my head i will acummulate this greasy white stuff under my finger nails (keep in mind i wash my hair very good  everyday) and this is just nasty please explain to me what it may be and sixth and final question: i have bad posture in my back and would like to know some exercises i can do to improve it? sorry this was really long and if you could respond that would be nice thanks 

Question by BIGHAIRYDUDE    |  last reply


My bicycles are turning against me... Literally.

My bikes are acting up. For those who may ask, no, I don't know how an inanimate object can act up. But they are. I was riding along on my MTB, and it just suddenly swerved over to the right. I fell in the middle of the road. I sprained my wrist, cut my elbow, and somehow hurt the bridge of my nose. I healed up just about a week after. It's been about a month or two. Just minutes ago, I was riding a different bike, when the pedals just stopped. It swerved over to the right, I fell on the same hand, the exact same spot on my elbow, and cut myself bad. Now everything stings. Ya' think my garage is possessed or something?

Topic by extremegtafan    |  last reply


A good way to clean/ polish badly tranished brass?

I have a brass bed that's badly tarnished. Tried Brasso with limited success. Becasue the bed is a large area to polish elbow grease would wear an average person out! Does anybody know of a better way to polish Brass?

Question by bilwen    |  last reply


Optimisation of pneumatics

Another interesting thing I found through research, a flaw in most over-under designs and pressurizing the stock, I have found that for every 90 degree elbow between the chamber and the barrel the resistance to the air is the same as adding 20 feet of straight pipe, this can be changes by using two 45 degree fittings put together to make a gentler turn or by using curved fittings instead of elbows, the gentler the turn the better. From this I have found that the simple straight cannon with the chamber directly behind the barrel as is shown in the picture below (please note this cannon is one I found from Google just to emphasize the point, and this is in pneumatics only). also to increase efficiency look at my other topic:https://www.instructables.com/community/best_chamber_to_barrel_ratio/(once again if you have found my research incorrect please tell me, I wont get fired up =)

Topic by cheeseboy    |  last reply


Does anyone know where I can buy ergonomic tools? Answered

I have moderate carpal tunnel and epicondylitis (tennis elbow) on my  dominant right arm. I wonder if anyone knows of a good place to buy ergonomic tools like screwdrivers with pistol grips, etc. Thank you guys!

Question by blkhawk    |  last reply


Potato cannon efficiency? Answered

I created a potato cannon that only has straight pieces of PVC.I have seen other designs where the combustion chamber is wrapped around 180 degrees with two elbow pieces thus making the cannon more compact.  Does anyone know which design is more efficient as in terms of launch power and speed?

Question by bobert610    |  last reply


Can I remove vinyl tile adhesive from concrete by some sort of power sander machine?

I see that people recommend using different kinds of solvent (and lots of elbow grease) to get the adhesive residue off, but I have an area that is north of 500 sq. feet.  Tile is off and we'd like to stain the concrete.  Thanks for any suggestions.

Question by TracyS131    |  last reply


Optimus Prime is made of tins

I love transformers very much after I watched the movie. So I decided to make a Optiums Prime. Last year I finished this works which had lasted two month. It made by less than 40 tins and some other things. The Optiums Prime is about 40cm high, and almost all of joints can act include neck, shoulder, elbow, wrist, legs, and every fingers

Topic by dangerouswpp  


how to make the perfect home made mac and cheese

YOU WILL NEED ELBOW NOODLES, 1 2/3 CUP OF MILK, 2 EGGS, SALT AND PEPPER, 1 LBS OF KAFT SHARP CHEESE, 1 PACKAGE OF KAFT SHERRED MEXICAN STYLE CHEESE AND 3 TABLE SPOONS OF BUTTER. COMBINE ALL IN A LARGE MIXING BOWL. STIR AND PUT IN A CASSROLE DISH BAKE FOR ABOUT 30 MINS OR UNTIL ALL MILK HAS VANISH.

Topic by cinge101    |  last reply


Twitches and Spasms

So, for I while I have felt weird mussle twitches and spasms. Loads of em' in my arms, legs, and chest. My favorite is the one I get on my elbow. Once they errupt, they last for about 30 seconds, or until I move my arm. I love to quickly move my other arm and feel it go... bump....bumpbump.....bumpbump...bump....bump.... Is this normal? Is this some unknown disease? I want your knowlage/opinion on my weird spasms.

Topic by Flumpkins    |  last reply


PVC pipe frame for a 3d printer Answered

Hello, I would like to know if anyone has any advise about building a 3d printer with 1/2 inch pvc piping. The pipe will be used for the rails, because they are cheaper than metal rods. I want to modify t connectors so that they are what slides along the pipe.The pipe will be parallel, and held together by right angle elbows. I will mount it on a flat board. Is there any problems I may encounter? Thanks for any help.

Question by jbaker22    |  last reply


Gripper toy/Prosthetic Prototype

Well its a simple cycle brake (side pull single pivot,brake pads removed) inserted in a glove that can be used to grab objects. The initial idea was to build on it further and have the brake lever fitted under the armpit such that when the arm is moved towards the body the lever gets pulled and the grip tightens to grab objects for persons who might be missing part of the hand from below the elbow. However didn't get any further for various reasons, would be very happy if anyone would find it useful.

Topic by Freddy Francis  


Low hot water pressure

I the past 4 months I have replaced the water heater, water softener, and the pressure tank. Everything was working fine until I developed a leak in a PVC elbow from the outside water supply As soon as that was replaced and I turned the wter supply back on my hot water pressure dropped to almost nothing in all of the faucets. I am thinking some scale got lodged in the outflow pipe from the water heater and I need to apply high pressure air from one of the faucets to force this out.

Question    |  last reply


gripper toy/prosthetic prototype

Well its a simple cycle brake (side pull single pivot,brake pads removed) inserted in a glove that can be used to grab objects. The initial idea was to build on it further and have the brake lever fitted under the armpit such that when the arm is moved towards the body the lever gets pulled and the grip tightens to grab objects for persons who might be missing part of the hand from below the elbow. However didn't get any further for various reasons, would be very happy if anyone would find it useful.

Topic by Freddy Francis    |  last reply


How to Fix a Broken Pipe Inside a Wall

Here's a quick photo-essay about my Sunday afternoon: An outside hose bibb was leaking around the handle, so I decided to replace it. * I couldn't remove the old hose bibb from a piece of galvanized pipe, so I removed the pipe too, and found what looked like a brass fitting inside the wall. * Once I had installed a new length of pipe and hose bibb, I turned the house water back on, and heard it leaking inside the wall. Thinking I hadn't tightened it enough, I really beared down and gave the bibb/pipe combo a good crank to seal the connection in the wall. That's when I felt a pipe inside the wall break, and heard water start blasting inside the wall. *Fortunately, I have access to the other side of the wall through the garage, so I cut a hole and installed a valve upstream of the break. I didn't have time to do a full repair and re-route the pipe outside, so that's where I've left it for now. It took three separate trips to Home Depot -- represented above by *'s -- which seems about average for me and plumbing disasters. Things I could have learned: try to remove the broken item before going to get parts. That would have saved one trip to get the additional length of pipe. I don't think I've ever soldered copper pipes in a non-emergency setting. Last time, our hot water heater failed the day before my parents arrived for a week's stay. If you'd like to do your own plumbing, I strongly recommend learning to solder on a project that doesn't require the water to the entire house to be off.Thanks to zachninme for taking photos!2008-08-31 Update: Since I know everyone is dying to know how this turned out, I've add a few more pictures. With the right tools and parts in hand, I replaced everything from the broken copper pipe out to the hose bid, and removed the valve inside the wall. The tricky part was mounting a brass 1/2 NPT female to copper 1/2 elbow. Originally, this piece was nailed into a stud and then the copper was soldered on before the walls were finished. I didn't want to make a big hole in the stucco on the exterior wall and I couldn't safely get my torch into the confined space, so I soldered some copper elbows onto this brass elbow and then mounted it with machine screws coming in from behind through the stud (screw heads on the inside where I could access them through the hole in the drywall, and bolts on the other side with the brass elbow where I positioned and tightened them by feel).Having opened a plumbing battle on this front, I decided to fix a bunch of other plumbing problems around the house, which I'll write about shortly in an Instructable.

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply


How do you remove black tarnish from steel window frames in my art deco era apartment?

I've gotten through the time consuming task of removing the 800 layers of what probably is lead paint, and have had some success with sanding, but it takes even longer then the stripping to get down to the shiny metal.  I think this is some kind of tarnish?  If so, is there a product someone could recommend, or am I committing to another 800 hours of elbow grease?  Many thanks in advance!

Question by ArtDecoSteelFrames    |  last reply


Removing car vinyl decal glue

I got a used car from the local electric company's auction and for a long time I didn't care about the glue left on the door.  But I have an idea for a custom paintjob that I would like to do but the residue from the very poorly removed company vinyls is in the way.  I tried to use goo-b-gone but it barely worked at all, even when I was using a buffer to simulate extra elbow grease.  Are there any other ways to get the stuff off short of removing the paint?

Topic by finfan7    |  last reply


push fit Plumbing Fittings

Shark bite, proline, etc.    They seem to work fine in places that have plenty of room... the sort of places that I'd have no trouble with a solder fitting. But in locations that I almost have to work by braille, places so tight that getting a torch in is nearly impossible, the places that an $8 press fit elbow seems suited for,  in those locations, the press fittings  leak like seives!  Then the release tool wont release the fitting, and it is a huge headache to tear apart. Do they leak if pushed in too far?  if slightly out of alignment?  and if one is in a location where precise alignment isnt gonna happen, Then what to do?

Topic by Toga_Dan    |  last reply


How do i thin out the wall of a PVC pipe?

Hi there everyone I am in a process of building a PVC bike trailer out of 40 mm PN 20 type of pipe. At the neck of the trailer where the cross-shaped yellow piece swivels horizontally - permitting the trailer turn left and right - , and just under it, where the lower red elbows swivel vertically - permitting the trailer to move up and down - are the two white pipes that i want to shave 1 or a bit more mm off of. I bought the materials but in a very interesting way the pipes don't fit inside the fittings. They need to be warmed up and then they fit inside one another getting stuck forever. No glue needed.  If i buy  the next largest fitting size - 50 mm - the gap is just too big. So it's a no go. That's why I ask you people: How do i shave off 1-2 mm of the white pipes in the picture so they slide in easily in the fittings? I want to point out that unfortunately I don't have access  to any heavy-duty machinery. So a manual way of doing this would be much appreciated.  P.S. the red dots on the picture are fixed points or dabs of glue if you like. The green dots mark out the movements of the components. For example the yellow cross is glued to the green pipes witch are glued to the red elbows witch in turn are glued to the other green pipes. Here only the yellow cross swivels on the vertical white pipe. :) I hope you got it :)

Topic by marosi    |  last reply


How to remove thinset from an enamel tub floor.?

Crappy contractors made a mess of a tile job and allowed thinset to fall into our tub and dry there.  I was able to scrap everything off, but there has been this grey haze on teh tub floor between the raised grippy bits.  It looks like the tub is always dirty.   I've been generally annoyed with this for years...well now we are selling and need to take action. I have tried: elbow greese scouring powders CLR Was wondering if I could use phosphoric or HCl on it.  I used phosphoric before to remove haze from unsealed ceramic tile.  Your collective wisdom is greatly appreciated.

Question by thatgirlkelly    |  last reply


PVC Art(?) How to make PVC Art that spins and turns from Star to Square.

I saw a "yard decoration" made out of PVC Pipe. Viewed one way it was a Square. Viewed another it was a star (6 sided I think.) So when the wind blew and it spun it was...a star..a square....a star..a square....a star..a square....you get the picture. Well I made one and gave it away. Years later I tried to make another and couldn't do it. All you need are several pieces of pvc pipe and about a dozen elbows (90degree bends). Can anyone help me make this? A picture of one you may have would be helpful. Or a web site ...anything. Thanks Modgod

Topic by Modgod    |  last reply


Help wiring and programming a Robot Arm? Answered

I have been building a robot arm for a competition, and I have the structure completed. I am very new to Arduino, and have little know-how when it comes to wiring properly and even less when it comes to programming. I have uploaded pictures of the robot arm as well as a crude circuit diagram of what I think needs to be wired. (Sorry if it is a bit confusing, I am reaaaaally new to this.) I am trying to control each joint (claw, wrist, elbow, shoulder, and rotary base) with a 10k pot. similar to how the Arduino servo knob command works. I plan on eventually making an instructable for this and will credit any help I get there.

Question by martzsam    |  last reply


What can I use to dissolve inkjet ink that won't harm mylar? Answered

I have a stock of large sheets of translucent mylar that I want to use as tracing medium. The trouble is that I got them from an engineering shop, so they have plans printed on them. I've had some success "erasing" the drawings using either alcohol hand sanitizer or acetone, but both require some elbow grease and some kind of abrasive, which leaves the surface mottled. Is there a solvent that will dissolve the ink and leave the surface of the mylar more-or-less undamaged? My research suggests that the ink was laid down by an inkjet printer, though I can't be entirely certain.

Question by yoyology    |  last reply


Pass PVC through a plastic lid without leaking

I'm trying to pass a PVC pipe through a plastic lid into a plastic box without leaking water from the pipe or the box. The water in the pipe will be pressurized, while the water in the box will be splashed. A small leak isn't a big deal. Unfortunately, this is also a bit of a stress point, though not terribly. See the picture and the diagram below (which is actually not quite right; the pipe on the top won't be that long; it will turn 90 degrees just above the plastic lid. Any suggestions on how to keep it from leaking? Perhaps make the T under the lid flush with the lid and the same for the elbow joint above it, and then make the hole as small as possible? That wouldn't keep all water out though, but it may work for splashes. Any ideas are greatly appreciated!

Topic by Nateowami    |  last reply


Home to get layers of old plastic contact paper off of sheet metal?

Hi! I bought this old sink at a salvage yard.  It has a sheet metal bottom with some drawers and cabinets. They are lined on the inside with this plastic contact paper that's been stuck on for 50 years. I have tried getting it off by applying extreme elbow grease and a metal paint scraper, after soaking the surfaces for a while in this stuff: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=36&prodid;=155 ("Cirtistrip Low V.O.C. Adhesive Remover") but its still pretty much not coming off. Anyone have a better idea about how to get this stuff off? A greener, not-so-toxic method would be great... but I'm not sure if there is such a thing? (FWIW: The sheet metal is not bare, it has a white paint/enamel-type coating.  Which is pretty scratched up in places.  I intend to sand & repaint it, once I get the contact pager off.)

Topic by microbat    |  last reply


Advice on riveting moving joints

Hi guys. I've been prototyping some very basic steampunk mechanisms that I'm preparing an Instructable for, and I'm looking for a bit of advice on how to make the moving joints. The mechanisms are simple, with parts I'm cutting from brass sheet myself. They'll be using joints that I'd like to make reasonably permanent and low profile, yet able to move (elbow joints, for want of a better description). I've not tested it yet, but I've read that putting a piece of paper between the two arms before riveting them (blind/pop rivets) will allow the joint to move once it's fastened together. I was also considering whether it might be advantageous to put a nylon of teflon washer between them before riveting, instead. Any advice on whether this type of moving joint would be any good, if it would last with moderate use, whether it would work at all, and what some possible alternatives might be would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance!

Topic by SpannerSpencer    |  last reply


Got Robot arm arduino Code !! but its not working need help with this code plz +++++

Here is the Code !! ​got  robot arm code for arduino but its not working can  tell me how to fix it ? here is the code // Language: Processing // RobotArmControl.pde // by Sam Thongrong Feb 26, 2012 // load the serial library for Processing import processing.serial.*; // instance of the serial class Serial port; // control commands array: // GripOut, GripIn, WristUp, WristDown, ElbowUp, ElbowDown, // ShoulderUp, shoulderDown, BaseCW, BaseCCW, LightOn, LightOff, Stop int[] controls = new int[] { 0x47, 0x67, 0x57, 0x77, 0x45, 0x65, 0x53, 0x73, 0x42, 0x62, 0x4c, 0x6c, 0x58 }; // Image button. // Loading images and using them to create a button. ImageButtons GripIn; ImageButtons GripOut; ImageButtons WristUp; ImageButtons WristDown; ImageButtons ElbowUp; ImageButtons ElbowDown; ImageButtons ShoulderUp; ImageButtons ShoulderDown; ImageButtons BaseCW; ImageButtons BaseCCW; ImageButtons LightOn; ImageButtons LightOff; ImageButtons Pause; // background PImage bg; // set the font PFont myFont; void controlGUI() { bg = loadImage("background.jpg"); background(bg); int buttonSize = 44; PImage selected = loadImage("controlSel.png"); //Grip In PImage gripInImage = loadImage("controlIn.png"); PImage gripInOver = loadImage("controlInOver.png"); GripIn = new ImageButtons(30, 83, buttonSize, buttonSize, gripInImage, gripInOver, selected); //Grip Out PImage gripOutImage = loadImage("controlOut.png"); PImage gripOutOver = loadImage("controlOutOver.png"); GripOut = new ImageButtons(78, 83, buttonSize, buttonSize, gripOutImage, gripOutOver, selected); //Wrist Up PImage wristUpImage = loadImage("controlUp.png"); PImage wristUpOver = loadImage("controlUpOver.png"); WristUp = new ImageButtons(150, 36, buttonSize, buttonSize, wristUpImage, wristUpOver, selected); //Wrist Down PImage wristDownImage = loadImage("controlDown.png"); PImage wristDownOver = loadImage("controlDownOver.png"); WristDown = new ImageButtons(198, 36, buttonSize, buttonSize, wristDownImage, wristDownOver, selected); //Elbow Up PImage elbowUpImage = loadImage("controlUp.png"); PImage elbowUpOver = loadImage("controlUpOver.png"); ElbowUp = new ImageButtons(258, 83, buttonSize, buttonSize, elbowUpImage, elbowUpOver, selected); //Elbow Down PImage elbowDownImage = loadImage("controlDown.png"); PImage elbowDownOver = loadImage("controlDownOver.png"); ElbowDown = new ImageButtons(306, 83, buttonSize, buttonSize, elbowDownImage, elbowDownOver, selected); //Shoulder Up PImage shoulderUpImage = loadImage("controlUp.png"); PImage shoulderUpOver = loadImage("controlUpOver.png"); ShoulderUp = new ImageButtons(208, 160, buttonSize, buttonSize, shoulderUpImage, shoulderUpOver, selected); //Shoulder Down PImage shoulderDownImage = loadImage("controlDown.png"); PImage shoulderDownOver = loadImage("controlDownOver.png"); ShoulderDown = new ImageButtons(256, 160, buttonSize, buttonSize, shoulderDownImage, shoulderDownOver, selected); //Base CW PImage baseCWImage = loadImage("controlCW.png"); PImage baseCWOver = loadImage("controlCWOver.png"); BaseCW = new ImageButtons(130, 234, buttonSize, buttonSize, baseCWImage, baseCWOver, selected); //Base CCW PImage baseCCWImage = loadImage("controlCCW.png"); PImage baseCCWOver = loadImage("controlCCWOver.png"); BaseCCW = new ImageButtons(178, 234, buttonSize, buttonSize, baseCCWImage, baseCCWOver, selected); //Light On PImage lightOnImage = loadImage("LightOn.png"); PImage lightOnOver = loadImage("LightOnOver.png"); LightOn = new ImageButtons(30, 184, buttonSize, buttonSize, lightOnImage, lightOnOver, selected); //Light Off PImage lightOffImage = loadImage("LightOff.png"); PImage lightOffOver = loadImage("LightOffOver.png"); LightOff = new ImageButtons(78, 184, buttonSize, buttonSize, lightOffImage, lightOffOver, selected); } void setup() { // List all the available serial ports in the output pane. // You will need to choose the port that the Arduino board is // connected to from this list. The first port in the list is // port #0 and the third port in the list is port #2. //println(Serial.list()); // Open the port that the Arduino board is connected to // (in this case #0) // Make sure to open the port at the same speed Arduino is // using (112500bps) //port = new Serial(this, Serial.list()[1], 112500); // On Window PC, use "Outgoing" of the bluetooth device // This one for XBee port = new Serial(this, "COM30", 115200); // screen size of the program //size(145, 455); size(400, 300); smooth(); // test ellipse ellipseMode(RADIUS); textFont(createFont("Verdana", 14)); controlGUI(); } void updateDisplay() { GripIn.update(); GripIn.display(); GripOut.update(); GripOut.display(); WristUp.update(); WristUp.display(); WristDown.update(); WristDown.display(); ElbowUp.update(); ElbowUp.display(); ElbowDown.update(); ElbowDown.display(); ShoulderUp.update(); ShoulderUp.display(); ShoulderDown.update(); ShoulderDown.display(); BaseCW.update(); BaseCW.display(); BaseCCW.update(); BaseCCW.display(); LightOn.update(); LightOn.display(); LightOff.update(); LightOff.display(); } //Send Commands void sendCommands() { // Grip if(GripIn.pressed) { port.write(controls[0]); //println("Grip In: " + (char)controls[0]); } if(GripOut.pressed) { port.write(controls[1]); //println("Grip Out: " + (char)controls[1]); } if(mouseX > 30 && mouseX < 129 && mouseY > 51 && mouseY < 79) { port.write(controls[12]); //println("Grip Stop! " + (char)controls[12]); } // Wrist if(WristUp.pressed) { port.write(controls[2]); //println("Wrist Up: " + (char)controls[2]); } if(WristDown.pressed) { port.write(controls[3]); //println("Wrist Down: " + (char)controls[3]); } if(mouseX > 148 && mouseX < 248 && mouseY > 5 && mouseY < 33) { port.write(controls[12]); //println("Wrist Stop! " + (char)controls[12]); } // Elbow if(ElbowUp.pressed) { port.write(controls[4]); //println("Elbow Up: " + (char)controls[4]); } if(ElbowDown.pressed) { port.write(controls[5]); //println("Elbow Down: " + (char)controls[5]); } if(mouseX > 258 && mouseX < 358 && mouseY > 51 && mouseY < 79) { port.write(controls[12]); //println("Elbow Stop! " + (char)controls[12]); } //Shoulder if(ShoulderUp.pressed) { port.write(controls[6]); //println("Shoulder Up: " + (char)controls[6]); } if(ShoulderDown.pressed) { port.write(controls[7]); //println("Shoulder Down: " + (char)controls[7]); } if(mouseX > 208 && mouseX < 308 && mouseY > 130 && mouseY < 158) { port.write(controls[12]); //println("Shoulder Stop! " + (char)controls[12]); } // Base if(BaseCW.pressed) { port.write(controls[8]); //println("Base Rotate CW: " + (char)controls[8]); } if(BaseCCW.pressed) { port.write(controls[9]); //println("Base Rotate CCW: " + (char)controls[9]); } if(mouseX > 130 && mouseX < 230 && mouseY > 202 && mouseY < 230) { port.write(controls[12]); //println("Base Stop! " + (char)controls[12]); } // Light if(LightOn.pressed) { port.write(controls[10]); //println("Light On: " + (char)controls[10]); } if(LightOff.pressed) { port.write(controls[11]); //println("Light Off: " + (char)controls[11]); } } void draw() { updateDisplay(); sendCommands(); } // Button & ImageButtons Classes class Button { int x, y; int w, h; color basecolor, highlightcolor; color currentcolor; boolean over = false; boolean pressed = false; void pressed() { if(over && mousePressed) { pressed = true; } else { pressed = false; } } boolean overRect(int x, int y, int width, int height) { if (mouseX >= x && mouseX <= x+width && mouseY >= y && mouseY <= y+height) { return true; } else { return false; } } } class ImageButtons extends Button { PImage base; PImage roll; PImage down; PImage currentimage; ImageButtons(int ix, int iy, int iw, int ih, PImage ibase, PImage iroll, PImage idown) { x = ix; y = iy; w = iw; h = ih; base = ibase; roll = iroll; down = idown; currentimage = base; } void update() { over(); pressed(); if(pressed) { currentimage = down; } else if (over){ currentimage = roll; } else { currentimage = base; } } void over() { if( overRect(x, y, w, h) ) { over = true; } else { over = false; } } void display() { image(currentimage, x, y); } } // Processing End

Topic by moustafar3    |  last reply


My PING sensor works only in one direction when the ping sensor is rotated to complete right direction . . . . having trouble in code :/ plz guide me for the code thanQ :)

// here is the code  // problem facing with the HEAD servo and the PING sensor  // this is paning from left to right but the problem is that PING works only in 1 direction. #define trigPin 3 #define echoPin 12 #define led 4 #define relay 8 Servo sl; Servo head; Servo sr; Servo el;   Servo er; int posh=0; int posl=0; int posr=0; void setup() {   sl.attach(9);   sr.attach(10);   el.attach(11);   er.attach(5);   head.attach(6);   Serial.begin (9600);   pinMode(trigPin, OUTPUT);    pinMode(relay, OUTPUT);   pinMode(echoPin, INPUT);   pinMode(led, OUTPUT); } void loop() {     for(posh = 0;posh <= 180; posh +=1)   {  delay(15);     head.write(posh);   }      for(posh = 180;posh >=0; posh -=1)   {       head.write(posh); delay(15);  }           //shoulder up   long duration, distance;   digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);  // Added this line   delayMicroseconds(2); // Added this line   digitalWrite(trigPin, HIGH); //  delayMicroseconds(1000); - Removed this line   delayMicroseconds(10); // Added this line   digitalWrite(trigPin, LOW);   duration = pulseIn(echoPin, HIGH);   distance = (duration/2) / 29.1; if (distance < .1) {  // This is where the LED On/Off happens      digitalWrite(led,HIGH); // When the Red condition is met, the Green LED should turn off      Serial.println("WELCOME");    head.write(90);       for(posl = 0, posr = 180; posl <= 90 ; posl +=1)   {       sl.write(posl);      sr.write(posr);      posr -=1;     delay(15);   }           // elbow close      for(posr = 0,posl=180; posr <= 45; posr +=1)   {     er.write(posr);     el.write(posl);     posl -=1;     delay(15);   }     delay(3000);   //elbow open       for(posr = 45,posl=135; posr >= 0; posr -=1)   {     er.write(posr);     el.write(posl);     posl +=1;     delay(15);   }     //shoulder down       for(posr = 90,posl= 90; posr <= 180; posr +=1)   {     sr.write(posr);     sl.write(posl);     posl -=1;     delay(15);   }      digitalWrite(relay,HIGH);    delay(1000);     digitalWrite(relay,LOW);   }     else   {     digitalWrite(led,LOW);   }     delay(100);     }

Topic by speak2sainow    |  last reply


Adding garden hose connection to downspout

Trying to think of a good way to add a garden hose connection to a downspout for directing rainwater elsewhere and or collection. There are diverters/whatnot out there but they seem to be ridiculously overpriced and some have low capture rates. And no, putting a barrel or container right under the downspout isn't really an option. Idea 1 = plug the bottom of the spout, then add a connection on the side, near the bottom Idea 2 = plug the bottom of the spout, and integrate a connection into it Idea 3 = use a flexible connector on the bottom which would go to a round shape, add a PVC cap and add a connection on the end Idea 4 = use a PVC downspout adapter to attach to a threaded cleanout, then add the connection to the plug Idea 5 = use two elbows off the bottom (U), and add a connection somewhere on either side of the bend I'm liking #4 at the moment, but I'm not sure about what exact fittings to use... One of these? http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/046224/046224250500lg.jpg

Question by explosivemaker    |  last reply


Surely there's an app...? (Software recommendations, please)

So, I have this new HP Sprout that I totally wasn't expecting. It's got a large touchscreen and this cool projector-scanner-touchmat combo that should be really useful for... something. The first thing I actively want is to be able to create files for my laser cutter (running Lasercut5.3), just by drawing with fingertips or stylus.  In my head, I see a version of Inkscape that works on the touchmat, but only responds to the stylus (to save weird lines from knuckles, elbows...).  I have Inkscape downloaded, but it won't work with the touchmat. Second, it would be nice to start learning how to create are actually 3d already, that could then become lasercut-able or 3d printable. Again, it would be nice to use the full potential of the machine, so what software would you recommend? Third... what?  have you got any cool ideas? On top of all this is the consideration of cost.  Free would be nice - if you are a software developer, I don't mind having a go with Beta products (I'm known for breaking code, so if it can survive me...).

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Waterproof Prosthesis???

Hello Everyone, I just recently became a below elbow amputee. I don't even have my prothetic yet! But I was wondering if anyone knows of how I could make a body powered hook waterproof. I thought I could just replace all the parts with stainless steel (or any waterproof metal), but my prothetist says that none of the arm companies make those little components (at the end of the arm) in anything but steel. I even popped a question to a representative at Ossur to ask if their suspension sleeve came with stainless steel parts. He said only water 'resistant'. Anyway, I was wondering if I could get a metal shop to make the parts or if you guys knew of anyone who has tried a similar endeavour. If I was to take my soon to be prosthesis into water, I know it would rust and seize. I would have to return to the shop every few weeks. An idea I had was just to make a passive hook (captain hook style) but it would lose most of it's function. Any ideas??? Getting the parts in another metal seemed like a good idea to me, but I don't know what kind of shop would make custom metal pieces. P.S. If you're wondering what it is for, I use to kiteboard and sail and want to do it again.

Topic by Logan C    |  last reply


How can I find a prostetic limb for my cats front paw?

Recently my full grown Manx Cat Maxwell had been hit by a car aquirung nerve damage to one specific spot in his leg. He can no longer feel in the paw alone but upwards his elbow and shoulder work perfectly. It has curled back and he uses it to walk around like a stump but in doing so he injured himself even more. His claw seems to be damaged in some way but it does scab over and recover when I keep him indoors for a long while but when he goes back outside he gets it injured all over again, sometimes even worse. I've been researching for a while now and it seems like a prostetic limb would be perfect on him due to the frequent use of his front paw in general. I haven't yet asked my vet about it but they recommended cutting it all off the whole leg if it didn't regain function. I find it  unnecessary  to take off the entire limb it most of it still works, but I don't want to just cut off the part that doesn't work because I know he'll use the stump and scrape it up. If you have any information on what could be used for him if greatly appreciate it, and I'm betting Maxwell would as well! 

Question by MikailaB    |  last reply


Is this normal?

The veins in my arms (a ton in my right, a lot, but not as much, in my left) bulge a ton, even if I'm not doing anything. While typing at a desk they look fine. Just sometimes out of knowwhere they just bulge, I might not even be doing anything that requires effort!. Is this bad? It doesn't hurt, it just looks weird. I don't work out (mind you I'm not that weak either, I'd call myself average), I weight about 100 pounds (I know, I'm light), I'm ~5' 4", and I'm 14., and I'm skinny. I'm Eurasian (half korean, and half white stuff like german and welsh, etc.). I find this really weird cause 2 of my friends are really strong, but they don't have the weird vein thing (they're skinny too). My arms are pretty thin, like I can wrap my thumb to my middle finger around my arm (about halfway inbetween my wrist and elbow, maybe a little more) More that I think about it typing bulges my veins, I'll post pictures of my right arm soon, it's freaking me out. Soome kids in my school are like "cool, how do you do that." Some girls are like "eewwwww" when they see my arms, but other don't seem to notice it. Bottom line, is this good, bad, should I be concerned, etc.

Topic by guyfrom7up    |  last reply


Anti-Yo Worldwide Video Yoyo Contest Winners Announced

Instructables is happy to announce the prizewinners from Anti-Yo Worldwide Video Yoyo Contest!Dozens of amazing videos were submitted with loads of different styles on display. Some supplied a couple tips while a few went all out and made Instructables with several steps. All showed off some skills and styles and for that we thank you.If you haven't checked out the yoyo videos, be sure to go to the contest group to see many more great Instructables. Judging for the contest was done by Kiya and Sonny from Anti-Yo. Big thanks to them, yoyoguy.com, and yoyonation.com for the prizes. Now, on with the winners!Grand Prize WinnerThis Instructable and video made the judges swoon and the author will be walking away with the $350 BSP yoyo from Anti-Yo. How to do the trick Justin Webertaught me at Worlds 2005 by Boxthor To see Boxthor's recipe for success, also check out his power drink of choice. First PrizeThe authors of these two Instructables will each receive a $100 gift certificate from yoyoguy.com or yoyonation.com. Blind 5A by miggymigs Contest Submission 2 by Adam Brewster Second Prize The authors of these Instructables will each receive a robot patch and stickers from Anti-Yo and Instructables. The Motorcycle 2 A few rejections and a bucket Pasturisation and Triforce Tower Laceration Tutorial Elbow Thigh Regen Random Prize - For being lucky enough to have its picture dropped on top of a camera, the author of this Instructable will receive a robot patch and stickers from Anti-Yo and Instructables.and the random winner is...this yoyoer who likes dark rooms.

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


Mini underwater robot (casing ideas?)

This idea is in the preliminary stage at the moment, I have a good level of understanding of all idea's implementation but I need some help with the casing (and battery). Without giving too much away (wouldn’t want to spoil the instructable surprise now, would we?!); basically it’s an underwater BEAM bot, it’s mainly static but it has some "flailing" arms that can move around in an interesting fashion. Said arms can wiggle in two dimensions (above and below the plane at which they are detached - think elbow that can bend back and forwards) and are composed of a levered magnet/coil combo. The entire thing will probably have three arms, all on the same plane. I also need a small rechargeable/replaceable power supply, emphasis on small (the project needs to be somewhere near neutrally buoyant), and some way of recharging/replacing it. Any ideas would be most welcome. Now, since I’m using electronics underwater I want to make sure water cannot get in; problem is I don’t know how. I have had some ideas about some sort of thin sealed plastic, i.e. two pieces of plastic cut to shape and sealed around the edges, but then charging becomes an issue. Plastic would otherwise be ideal. Please keep in mind that I’m a student and cannot afford anything more expensive than a good lunch. Finally, would this make good instructable material? I’m hoping to have a design no more complex than a basic beam bot, as it is at the moment the part count is very low... Thanks

Topic by andy    |  last reply


First project, Need help with materials selection :)

Hey everyone! This is my first post here and I hope someone can give me a hand, or I can contribute in the future.  For now I need some expert opinions.  For a project in school me and my partner came up with the idea of making our own air filtering baby canopy.  I made a drawing of what I imagine it would look like.  I just for the life of me can't come up with an idea to make the frame out of. Here's an image so you can see what I'm talking about...  http://i.imgur.com/7ntRp.jpg (side) http://i.imgur.com/ReCcd.jpg (top) So I'm pretty sure I can make the base and the supporting frame out of 1/2inch PVC pipe with 45degree elbows.  The electrical and fan for the filtration unit and netting we have have sorted out already. For the life of me, I cannot figure out what to make the "filtration unit" out of.  It needs to be a shell basically so I can fit the filter and fan inside.  First I thought maybe use thin aluminum sheet metal and form it to a desired shape.  (I've even found stuff for air conditioning ducts that is almost in the shape and size where it would work for a prototype.  I even had an idea of using foam.  Use a foam cutting tool to make a top and bottom piece, paint them with an acrylic coating to harden it.  Then gluing the top and bottom piece. *Any idea what I can use to make some sort of "box" that doesn't look like junk to hold my internals? Also, taking any ideas of how I can make the folding joint for the supporting arches.  I was thinking maybe just making them less wide than the frame, so they can be lined up towards the center, and drill a hole through them and bolt them.  Any comments? If you've made it this far in my post, thank you!  And I look forward to any of your craft ideas. tl:dr; What material can I use to make a "shell" of a desired shape that can hold electronics and stuff? -Mike

Topic by de312    |  last reply


Well guys I finally ran out of luck

On my way to work today I came off my bike at somewhere around 20-25mph, on a long sweeping corner I was turning with a steady lean and just lost all grip, both tyres slid, my left elbow hit the ground, shredded most of the skin on it and I actually brunt a hole in the jumper I was wearing with friction, I flipped over and smashed my wrist in to the ground so hard that that doctor wasn't sure if it was a sprain or break due to swelling, at some point my left hip hit the tarmac and they Xrayed that aswell in case I had chipped it, there's a nice swelling forming there... I also scuppered both my knees, the bad one is now just popping out from under me at any oppurtunity while the other can barely be moved. I've also just noticed that theres a bit of wood or stick stuff in my arm. This means that I can't go cycling for two weeks by docs. rules, can't play guitar hero, can't lift anything, might not even be able to drive, which would suck nuts as I just started formal lessons, finally afford them and I'm put outta work for a week and can't use my time to do the stuff I want/need to do. On the upside I can get to the hardware store and get my pulse jet parts and be doing something with my time, but I wont be able to build both because I've to save extra wages for next month as I wont get my days off back. The bike stood up to the crash much better than me, scraped paint on handlebar bell and I somehow knocked the reflectors of one of the pedals, I'm guessing thats the big gash on my shin explained... It's wierd I've been hit by trucks and got up straightened the handlebars, cycled off happy enough, I had the same type of crash except the front wheel fell down a curb I clipped a car and hit a wall with enough force to damage it and was fine apart from minor bruises, this simple crash screwed me completely, I fell perfectly and rolled well after flipping and smashing my right wrist, the bike somehow got a good distance away from the crash, as did I... Also three instructables I was planning will have to wait for at least a week, depending on what tools I can manage by then, it's a shame I just made three great projects and I have to wait until I'm better to finish them and publish... it also took me about 25minutes to write this...

Topic by killerjackalope    |  last reply


From the Editor: International Buy Nothing Day

A few years ago I started celebrating International Buy Nothing Day, which falls on the Friday after Thanksgiving in the United States (and the following Saturday everywhere else). I typically celebrate by going for a walk on the beach in the morning, and then spending the rest of the day eating leftovers and working on projects. I find it's a pleasant way to start the holiday season, and helps put the season in perspective. Using one of the busiest shopping days of the year to take pause and go out of my way not to spend money made me very conscientious of many of the absurdities of the holiday season. It also helped me become aware of all of the small transactions that I typically made throughout the day, and the importance (or frivolity) of each one. Another unexpected consequence was that it limited travel, and forced me to stay local to my neighborhood. This made me engage with my neighbors in a way that did not require spending money. Not to mention, there were no pushy crowds elbowing for deals, no parking spots to fight for, and no unbearable register lines created by poorly trained seasonal staff. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying that all transactions are bad. If no one ever spent money, our economy would probably collapse pretty quickly. We can't all avoid spending money every day, but we can choose where and how we spend our money. After a few years of celebrating International Buy Nothing Day, I am much more likely to spend money with local businesses, and support local artisans and craftspeople. This decision was arrived at while I was strolling about aimlessly a few years ago, and noticed how empty some of the local stores were on one of the busiest shopping days of the year. It was my conclusion that local businesses needed my money much more than the ubiquitous large retailers I typically purchased from. After all, these stores are more likely to sell the wares of local makers, and are an important part of the DIY community. I highly encourage everyone to celebrate this holiday to the best of their ability. I understand that you may need to go get some food, or put gas in your car, but, if you can, try avoiding the magnetic pull of shopping malls and Amazon deals. Instead, I would encourage everyone to try spending International Buy Nothing Day crafting thoughtful gifts for people, reading a good book, playing board games with friends, or simply going for a walk. Have you ever celebrated this holiday? Do you think you might like to try? Do you have any plans to make your own gifts this year? What are your thoughts on this phenomenon?

Topic by randofo    |  last reply


Instamorph Build Night at Arch Reactor Hackerspace, St. Louis, Missouri

On Tuesday, April 21st we held a build night at Arch Reactor (in St. Louis, Missouri) with Instamorph. There was a very excited turnout of over 15 people being introduced to the moldable plastic product. Some members incorporated their creations into existing projects, such as a loop to hold a weather balloon safely onto the quick release pipe during the pre-launch filling in order to measure the total lift without losing any of the gas. Another member created a diffuser for a LED project that used RFID tags to cause different combinations of colored LEDs to turn on when a tag was scanned.  Others experimented with the product to discover ways they might use Instamorph in other projects in the future. The big discoveries of the night were that any unused portions or failed creations could simply be placed back into the hot water and reshaped into version 2.0 or something new entirely and that once it cools Instamorph is virtually indestructible. See the photo of a flat sheet of it being bent into a taco shape. Process: We used an electric kettle to heat up our water to the correct temperature of 140 degrees F / 60 degrees C, and then poured it into small bowls. I had initially thought that each person could start with 3 ounces of the pellets, but the measuring cup that I brought only held 2 ounces. After heating that portion up in the water, we discovered that 2 ounces was plenty for most projects being considered. The member in charge of our workshop had asked those who did not have an idea for the Instamorph to consider making a hanger to hold individual shop safety glasses. He molded a piece into a design for that. Later it was discovered that the hearing protection holder dome in the shop was exactly the size to hold shop glasses. Attempts may be made later to fashion a "nosepiece" and "earpieces" from Instamorph and attach them to the dome to hold several pair of safety glasses on it instead of on the wall. It was also discussed to place a safety glasses holder at various stations throughout the shop to make them more accessible for users in the shop, and thus more likely to be worn.  Problems encountered:  The bowls that I had brought were plastic, so if the heated pellets were pressed into the bowl hard enough they would stick a little, but could be pushed off with just a little effort. In retrospect, I would use glass bowls the next time.  I would also consider using a crock pot to keep the water at a near constant temperature for any personal projects, but the electric kettle and bowls worked well for the build night. We also had an issue with the warmed Instamorph sticking to an acrylic roller and a plastic mold meant for cake decorating. It worked fine if the Instamorph had been allowed to cool while flattening it out by hand, then rolled. However, when it was removed from the water and immediately rolled, it cooled quickly and adhered to both the acrylic roller and the plastic mold. Much scraping, reheating, and elbow grease were applied in order to remove the Instamorph from those tools. Tools made from other materials might work better for this process. 

Topic by GeekTinker    |  last reply


My time as an AiR

When I got the invitation to be an Artist in Residence, my wife's first reaction was hilarity, since I have the drawing skills of an orangutan. Getting here, and being here, has been a really big deal.  This site has been a big part of my life for several years, and it has been a real pleasure to share space with some of the most intelligent and creative people I have ever encountered.  I have seen genuine art being created, and wonderfully subversive acts being committed. Being in such an environment was, in equal parts, intimidating and exhilarating.  Although I have a long list of projects to try, I was sometimes spoiled for choice because of the freedom to create as I pleased. Projects I have created in my time here have been; Duct tape boomerang Paper bag kite Coffee stapler Cardboard conch Sculpted head Small-scale wave power generator (mentioned in the newsletter - woot!) Laser-cut penny maze Rock, Paper, Scissors board game Robot face stencil This is a shorter list than I would have liked (boy, you should see the length of my "to do" list!), but the downside of being given the freedom to create is the lack of enforced deadlines.  That is a failing on my part, and not a failing of the AIR system. On the up side, I have been involved in a lot more of the running and planning of the site than I thought I would.  I have judged contests, taken part in planning meetings, got involved in longer-term projects on the site, and helped de-bug the new AiR process (bring your bank details!).  The phrase dates me, but I grok the site a lot more now.  I've also seen the planned projects of the next guy, and they are awesome! I also got the chance to run a site Challenge to launch the new Birding Channel.  This was, I've got to say, disappointing - given the amount of publicity I managed to get for the challenge amongst the birding community, I had hoped for a lot more entries.  I guess that there are not many folk who are both Maker and Birder? I also got the opportunity to help out in other folks' projects, and to learn new skills, both traditional and modern (laser cutters are awesome!), from folk like Noah, Matt, Kelsey, and got a far clearer image of how hard, and how fun, it is to keep this site running. San Francisco is a great, mad, weird city, and I love it, but the most surreal day was being the witness to the wedding of an ex-pupil, who came over to the US to get married and have the honeymoon all at once.  I first met this person when they were nine, and now they're married... (I feel old again). It's hard, in a piece like this, to avoid rambling, so I'll stop now, except for one final point: This past month genuinely ranks as one of my top Life Experiences.  That may sound like an exaggeration, but if you know me, you know how important this site has been to me over the years.  Eric, if I ever get the chance to do it again, I will have your arm off at the elbow! And, you know, I think the rest of my family will as well ...

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Polishing small or very detailed metal parts - the easy way ;)

I should not get hoocked on the cummunity side here again but well, I am bored today...If you have a vintage car, some old steam engine models or even really old clocks then you know my pain.Copper, brass and sometimes aluminium was used and if not cared for in time they nice shine goes first.Dirt and dust come next.And with more time passed we start to consider leaving it as the polishing would take forever.Take one of my "hobbies": old mantle clocks...Literally everything inside is brass.Now polishing a bass backing plate with some holes is quite easy if you have an ultrasonic cleaner to clean the debris out of the tiny holes when done.Even tried to polish a sprocket or fine spring mechanism?If spoked then this is a really painful job.But the same is true if you have old copper and brass ware, like these old stenciled pictures on copper sheets.No matter what you try these jobs end up to take more time than what you imagined and in many cases fine details are left oxidised or filled with the polishing compount.Now imagine you could get rid of these tarnishes and discolorations without cramps in your hand and bying all sorts of polishing products?Sure there are the well known brands that polish a lot of metal with ease by simply wiping over them.But they use harmful and often toxic chemicals and are still no good for really fine details like grooves or emossed stuff.Wearing gloves and protection is often a must and at least I can't stand the stink of them.We all know how to clean our dishes, even how to get the dried on lasagne from last night off the dinner plates.So why not do the same with our brass, copper or aluminium parts?Just use a spongue, rub and wipe a bit, rinse off and let dry.Ok, those who tried before reding the rest might be a bit angry now as it does not work that easy.Well, actually it does, just don't use dishwashing liquid :)Let me give you two of the worst cleaning problems I encountered first:You did some very fine brazing to create something nice from brass or bronze.The flux you can wash off, but polishing the discoloration from the heat and resulting oxidisation will take longe than the brazing job.The other ecounter was the restauration of a petromax style blow torch of alomst 60 years of age - but thankfully it was never used for more than decoration.All brass and a lot parts impossible to polish due to size and being quite delicate.Now we all have ways to spend a lot of time and being creative to use normal ways of polishing.And, yes I did so myself for many years and kick can myself now too.Since we can't do any advertising here and I clearly don't want to promote any brands or harm other brands by rendering their costly products useless I need a way out that helps everyone.So, again, I am not trying to promote anything here!However I noticed someone in my favourite restaurants kitchen polishing some dark copper pot to a mirrow shine in less than 5 minutes!I was shocked and asked the manager to explain what I just saw.He was confused to say the least..."We clean our pots every day, sometimes more depending on what we cooked in them."Sure but what do you use to do what I need several hours for in minutes and with better results?"Just water and soapy powder to shine the metal sir. All natural product."Omg god or Kali! What makes it shine so quickly?"Shining powder sir!" - mind you the poor guy was now totally confused and worried, while I started to loose my insanity.He noticed the look on my face and went into the kitchen.Gave me a fance looking bag that apart from a lot of Indian writing I could not make any sense of stated "Shining powder" on the pack.When the manager saw the look on face this time he laughed and asked "How do you clean your copper pots sir?"I was speechless and just said with much more time and elbow grease...He packed about thimble worth of powder for me to try and said it would be enough for a medium sizde pot, just use a wet spongue and put a little bit of powder on it.And guess what the stuff worked as good as in the restaurant :(I can't even count how many hours I wasted polishing copper or brass parts with fine details.Or engine parts from aluminium with brass parts inside....With this stuff you just wipe and tough cases rub a bit harder and all is done in literally seconds.In tight areas or those with fine details you use a fine brush like those for painting in water colors.And with that and a spongue you clean even the finest details with ease.In an ultrasonic cleaner it even works on areas you can't reach, just wipe what you can reach and see somehow and it shines.Now if you want this magic stuff and check if the guy here is just pulling your leg then be prepared to pay a lot of money.200 grams of this powder will set you back between 5 and 15 bucks depending on where you shop.That is enough clean about 300 midsized copper pots or a few hundret meters of copper piping....Just ask for shining powder in your Indian grocery store ;)We all waste money or stuff we don't need, so if you have coper, brass or aluminium to polish then try washing it the Indian way - just for fun of testing something else.And if after that test you think the few bucks and information was well worth it than please post your experience with the powder in the comments below.I hope all those members here working with these metals will read this too, so if not help me to spread the word please ;)I am struggling to upload some pics I have taken from the blow torch but will try again alter once I reduced their size.If in doubt I will upload them to a hoster and link them.Disclaimer:I don't advertise, I don't promote!However I am so pleased with this dirt cheap product that I use it now as my prefered and natural option.For this reason I think it is worth sharing.It is not a magic cure! If you have pitted areas, solder marks or brazin coming out of joints it will not help.Same for scratches, they still require abrasive polishing to be removed.But normal dirt from being displayed for years, oxidisation and even slight discoloration from corrosion will vanish.And if the surface has a good polish underneath all this than it will come back with ease ;)

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Bee sting thearapy - a natural alternative to classic medication?

A lot of medications we use originally came directly from nature.Like chewing on some inner bark from a beech tree - it contains natural "asperin".And even potent medicine started by sourcing the natural stuff until we managed to created it all in the lab.Poisons from plants and animals are in many cases still the backbone of modern medicine - including opiates like morphine.It is then no real surprise that the long forgotten bee sting therapy makes a big comeback these days.Forgotten only in the mordern, western world - in Asia it was and still is part of the normal medical approach for many people.So what is it all about and how does it actually work?A little bee gives her life so you get treatment....And if we trust modern medicine from just under 10 years ago this is where the story would end.Thankfully we did not stop there once more and more people spread the word about the benefits of their treatment.Social media helped a lot here for once.Be it inflammatory deseases, nerve pain, arthritis and much more - you are certain to find people providing evidence that their condition improved noticable.In some case they even claim to be cured from their problems.What they all have in common though is that they all started like you and me: Fully of scepticism...With nothing to loose and no doctor giving you any real relief you might get desperate to try all sorts of weird things, so why not bees!?So far a bee sting therapist is just your normal bee keeper, but one with a passion for both the bees and your suffering.There is neither a need for doctor nor a need for a doctor to start as a bee keeper.Their knowledge of where to place the bee on you comes mostly from feedback and experience.Although a lot if quite obvious.Like when you have sever pain from arthitis in your elbow then that is the area were get stung and not in your leg ;)Sience is starting to take all this serious now and some studies try to figure out how and what actually is in the poison that helps better than any medicine and without any noteworthy side effects.I say notewroth because the obvious risk of a shock reaction is always there.But even you never got stung by a bee before and don't know if you are allergic: All bee sting therapists have an epi pen at hand for those unknown cases.Evidence shows the bee venom has good anti inflamatory properties, however what component is responsible for this is still largly unknown.Patient obvervations and tons of blood tests also revealed that the continued bee sting therapy attack the bodies systems in a very positive way.The immune system goes into to overdrive but what targets the poision or venom also targets and attacks a lot of related things that out of level or control otherwise.The body also produces endorphines and a generally stronger immune reaction to other things.Again, evidence is there, the lab proves it, but why and what exactly is still a huge mystery to science.And it flies anayway!You might know the old problem of aeronautic students when the task comes why or how a bumblebee is able to fly.Physics tell us the wings are too small, the body too fat and the overall weight just impossible.Sadly no bumblebee has even the slightest clue about physics or even earonatutical desgin, so it just flies off and does whatever a bumblebee needs to do these days....The story for the bee sting therapy is quite similar.We know it works for many things, we know it shouldn't and that it does it anyway.But does that mean you should try it out to end you pain or at least get some relief?Do be stung or not to be stung - that is the question...Unless you are allergic you have nothing to loose here once you think about it.So you, like so many before, might just start some internet search to find out more.And if it happens to be something other people already reported the treatment was beneficial your doubts might fade away and you dare to try it.Some of the stories you find are just a hype with things those who posted can never prove.So don't fall something exotic and expect that it will work for you just because you found a single article or posting saying so.Not because it might not work!Just because nothing is worse than getting your hopes and expectations up with nothing happening at all.Either way the cases of relief right away are few, in almost all cases it takes several rounds of therapy before the patient notices anything that couldn't come from simply hoping it works.Once it does though the effects are usually great.For mayn it is last ditch attempt but it does not have to be that way.Pain killers and other drugs might help you good enough and you wouldn't consider killing a bee for a test....Why not?Again: You have nothing to loose ;)Medication is good, nature is better!If ever switched from some expensive medicine to a generic brand than chance are you noticed they work differently or in some case not enough or with worse side effects.The same is true for the basic, natural product.We can, for example create the raspberry ketone in the lab and we know it the stuff giving us the nice raspberry smell.But the artificial produt has suprisingly little smell and even less taste than the original...Like all natural venoms, posion and toxins, bee stings give you a cocktail of ingredients.The artificial product only what was identified to be the most beneficial.Science has shown over and over again that a lot of these cocktails contain things that prevent the negative effects of the artificial counterpart.Does not mean though anyone ever bothered to include these in the recipe for the created meds..."What does not kill you makes you stronger!"We use this phrase for a lot of things but in terms of natural healing ways it is often more ture than for anything else.Bee keepers use protection but you won't find any who does not get stung on a more or less daily base.They don't bother with the little pain anymore and most might even tell you that apart from the initial sting they don't really feel it anymore.What is even more interesting is if you have a chat with them about the general health.It is hard to find any bee keeper that suffers regulary from a cold or flu, let alone infections.Back before we had things like penicilling or anesthetics we had much more people knowing what nature can offer to help us.Pharma companies are exploiding nature wherever they can to make money with "new" medicines and "discovieries".Bee keepers won't ;)They won't even charge you much, some are already happy if you buy a pot of honey or wax candles while being treated.But as said, it is neither a miracle, nor something anyone "must" try out!Never expect any, especially quick, benefit!You deserve to be sceptic and only get your hopes up once or better if you see a real benefit over time.Just have a look at your daily dose of medications and how much it helps you - including the side effects.If you say that enough is enough then do your own bit of research first.Try to find people with your condition that got help from bee sting therapy, at least their online presence or testimonials.In case all adds up good and positive you can cosider to try it yourself without expecting anything.And, well, if does help you too then fel free to spread the word...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply