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About electrolytic (aluminium) capacitors..... what do the low ESR ones do that normal ones don't? And how come they have these capacitors in bipolar types, but not all are bipolar? Is it because of the size/cost? And lastly, can you make an LC circuit with any electrolytic capacitor?                                                                                                             Many thanks P.S: In which frequency range are LC resonant ciruits best used? Cos I heard that lower/higher than a specific point, they become impractical or something....

Has anyone successfully completed this instructable robot? If so, what size of electrolytic capacitors are the two in the the eye controller board? It is not listed anywhere and the comments section is not very active.

I am designing a very simple but small PCB in Eagle. Size is a constraint and the enclosure is pretty small. I had a 100uF electrolytic capacitor in the schematic which I realized will not fit vertically in the enclosure while making the prototype. So to make it fit, I kept a few mm of leads between PCB and capacitor while soldering and then bent it horizontally on top of a nearby crystal. This was a quick fix but now I want the schematic to have space for it. I have enough free space to put it lying down but can't find any footprint for a horizontal radial polarized cap. I'm sure I saw one such component in some schematic or in the library but can't find it. Even google results mostly gave axial caps. The only thing near to what I wanted was this diagram, but it had no footprint. The last resort will be to design my own footprint. Can anyone please help? -Antzy

I need to make a cheap spotwelder to rebuild some battery packs(e.g,. welding thin nickel strips).My options are:(a) Try to find most of a farad at up to 25V or so on eBay. This could take a while. (Buying new electrolytics in the 0.1F range and above at these voltages is pretty expensive.)(b) Go for supercaps from Digikey (e.g). They've got some 5V 1F models for only a few bucks, and some "fast-discharge" ones for 10x more. Of course, if I go for more than 10V or so, I'll have to build some sort of charge-balancing circuit around the series caps, and I'd rather not unless it's really the best way to go--- though it might be as simple as a resistor in parallel to each cap.(c) Try one of these weirdo "digital supercapacitors" that are all over eBay for the crowd who fill their entire trunk with stereo amps. These look like they're rated at 1-5F at 13.8V and (I would hope) include some sort of charge balancer. Dunno if they're suitable for the sort of instant-discharge I want for a welder, though.I'm having difficulty figuring out:(a) How fast a discharge I need for a spotwelder anyway; I'm going to be using an SCR to trigger it and presumably want the lowest-inductance arrangement I can get, but are we talking milliseconds or microseconds?(b) What can I get out of a supercap? Milliseconds or microseconds? I haven't worked with supercaps before, and most people who seem to be designing circuits with them are using them as batteries.Other random questions:My reference design had 0.5 to 1F at 0-25V through a 600V 50A TO-65 SCR; whatworries me are things like http://www.avxcorp.com/docs/Catalogs/bestcap.pdf,whose page 3 shows that non-ultra-low-ESR supercaps (e.g., theaffordable ones) seem to have virtually no capacitance for pulsewidths of 10ms or less. (The BestCaps in that datasheet claimsomething like 60% of nominal instead, which is pretty good!)I dunno how narrow the pulse width needs to be to get good welds,but I'm guessing pretty narrow---for example, one guy claimed inhttp://www.philpem.me.uk/elec/welder/ that just the difference inputting the SCR on the low side and not the high side (so the triggerfor it didn't have to go through the wires, electrodes, and workpiece)worked a whole lot better, which implies to me that he might betalking microseconds. But I just don't know.]Of course, I also don't know whether I need 0.5 F at 10V or 1F at25V for the things I'm considering.Not to mention---the 50F caps at http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T072/P1354.pdf(some of which claim ESR's of 0.025 ohm at 1kHz) have these skinny little0.5mm leads on them. How in hell would these leads not be vaporized if Icharged up the cap and then shorted it, as a spot-welder would be doing?(And sure, I could try to attach #4 copper wire to them---somehow---andsend that to the sharpened tips on my welding electrodes, but boy I feelsilly doing that---seems like whatever part of the cap's leads aren'tattached to the heavy wire will just evaporate when shorted, if they canreally dump that kind of current, even if it -is- just for milli-to-microseconds.)The Instructables site has some rambling about using supercaps for CDspotwelders, but it's just rambling---nobody who's actually built oneusing them, for example, or who seems to talk about discharge rates,etc.

I'm thinking of replacing some electrolytic caps with smaller ones to save space. Foresee any problems? I was thinking tantalum just because they looked like they might be smaller. This is for a AAA 1.2-1.5V circuit.

What Determines The Voltage Of A Capacitor? How is it possible to decide what will be the maximum voltage of a capacitor while making it? How is this done?

I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects.  It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it.  I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot.  I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds.  I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer?  And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?

I'm in the process of sourcing components to build a capacitive discharge battery tab welder - there are a few designs out there on the internet from this one: http://www.philpem.me.uk/elec/welder/ which I like because it's nice and simple, to this one, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxWo8ko2k2A which is gorgeous but complicated. So anyway, first off I want to find some large capacitors. I'm wary of using car audio stiffening capacitors as it looks like they don't last very long for this purpose, although they can be obtained relatively cheaply, and I can't afford large standard type electrolytics which cost an arm and a leg. I did have the idea that there must be a "sweet spot" in terms of cost/size where I can build a bank of capacitors without breaking the other sort of bank - it looks like probably being around the 20 x 47,000uF (like this design uses: http://www.pittnerovi.com/jiri/hobby/electronics/welder/index.html ) mark, but I wonder if anyone with more recent component purchasing experience than me can provide some pointers? The voltage rating needs to be in the 20 to 30 volt range. Oh, and when I've finally built one, I'll post an instructable, I promise! My version is likely to be rather more analogue though as I don't know anything about microcontrollers.....

So, I was replacing a bad capacitor on a smart car battery charger. It was making a terrible whining noise, which the bad cap was causing. So, I replaced it. But, silly me, I installed it backwards, so when I powered it up, it vented up a storm. Now, the basement smells of burnt electrolytes. I've opened windows, and even had a fan running to draw air in, but that nasty smell lingers. What else could I try to rid of it?

I want to make a capacitor bank with high capacitance and i saw a lot of instructables for high voltage, but the most i got out of one was with aluminum foil and plastic wrap and i only got 14nf. i saw on some sites that the aluminum was electrocoated with aluminum oxide, but i couldn't find any specifics and nothing i tried so far has worked (it just created higher resistance, not capacitance). also, what's a good electrolyte solution, i'm just using water, salt and baking soda.

I was trying to figure out how to make inexpensive electrolyte pills. From my calculations, one could make the daily recommended equivalent (assuming no other food has said nutrients): Table Salt - 1 tsp (primarily: NaCl, gives sodium) Salt Substitute - 2 tsp (primarily: KCl, gives potassium) Milk of Magnesia - 1 tbsp (primarily: Mg(OH)2, gives magnesium) Antacid Tablets - 5 pills (primarily: CaCO3, gives calcium) This could be useful to endurance athletes and people who are practicing prolonged water-only fasting. Has any of you tried to make something like this before? What other essential nutrients would you include? Any recommendations for a phosphorus source?

(Asked once already, but for some reason was not visible.) That is sort of a blanket question. I'm wondering: 1) why only some, and not all or none? 2) what (in their physical structure) causes them to have polarity? 3) why do we make ones that have polarity? Is there something prohibitive, like cost, or safety, making it so in the production? (okay, not safety, as may attest anyone who has seen a reversed capacitor explode.)

I built an ignition coil driver with a ne555 timer I think I may have installed the electrolytic capacitor in the circuit backwards. The circuit oscillated then started to die out would this be the capacitor failing?  

My father (an electrical engineer) told me that if a capacitor is charged and than shorted out than it can fail, possibly with explosive results. However I have seen way to many Youtube videos of capacitor banks being shorted and nothing but a big spark happening. Who is right? Can anybody help me?

I want to build a vhf tv transmitter circuit but accidentally I bought a 4.7uF electrolytic capacitor instead of 4.7uF Ceramic.Can I use the electrolytic capacitor instead of that ceramic capacitor. Please help!

I eared many things about hho generator but some say it is better to use "solution recipes" (electrolyte) instead of  "conditioned distilled water" . I'd like to know more about conditioning distilled water . I need your help on this one ! I plan to use rectified high voltage for 2 dry cells . 8" by 8" 16 plates each using microwave parts but I can't figure the minimal input if coming form  12 volts batteries and car alternator . I bet I'll need a converter from car DC to H/V transformer and I have no idea how to make it a reality Use the best of your knowledge to answer !!! Instructive and useful links are welcome ... Thanks !

I eared many things about hho generator but some say it is better to use "solution recipes" (electrolyte) instead of  "conditioned distilled water" . I'd like to know more about conditioning distilled water . I need your help on this one ! I plan to use rectified high voltage for 2 dry cells . 8" by 8" 16 plates each using microwave parts but I can't figure the minimal input if coming form  12 volts batteries and car alternator . I bet I'll need a converter from car DC to H/V transformer and I have no idea how to make it a reality Use the best of your knowledge to answer !!! Instructive and useful links are welcome ...

I have desoldered a couple of old radios etc. and am trying to identify all the components I have harvested. Amongst them I have some green mylar caps. One such cap has the markings: 2A473J I did a bit of research and found out that usually the first two numbers is the significant figures and the third is the number of zeros. Assuming its not counting the 2A, I'm guessing this cap is 47000pF or .047μF. and I found out that the J is +/-5% tolerance? Firstly, is everything I have worked out/ assumed true and if so and the cap is .047μF, what does the 2A mean? Others say 2A73J, 2A103J, 2A332J, 2A222J, 2A102J Ceramic ones say 4, 22, 30, 33, 102, 103, 104, 203, 221, 222, 331, 332, 333, 473, 682, 683 And I also have 4 of another type of cap that I don't know the name of- they are shown in the 3rd picture. the two smaller ones say 474 on, one say 8.0M and the other:16.93M Thanks in advance

What are electrolytic capacitors? In what way they are different from normal capacitors? The charge on a capacitor depends on how i connect it to battery,but electrolytic capacitors have one long and short terminal to differentiate between positive and negative terminal. Why?

I just picked up a branson 5210 2.5 gallon ultrasonic cleaner.i will be using it to clean aluminum motorcycle carbs that have been sitting and become encrudded.i have gotten a lot of suggestions as to what sort of home brew recipes work well, i was hoping people around here could tell me what they use or have heardi will be ordering some of the carb cleaning stuff from sharperteks website to compare it to different homebrew recipes. my goal is ease and lack of cost here. thankshttp://i9.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/43/54/91b8_35.JPG

I want to test an electrolytic capacitor in an old guitar tube amp.

I have ALOT of pins and boards so I need the ratio of chemicals for the bath of electrolytes

Hello, I'm 13 and I want to get started in electronics. I know how to solder and read basic schematics and I have two of those 200 in 1 electronics sets. I am about to make an order for some components from www.bitsbox.co.uk.This is what I have so far, anything you would add or remove? (I couldn't easily get the quantities)pp3 battery clips2 x AA Battery Holder3 x AA Battery Holder11 wire single core bundle1uF 50V Electrolytic Radial100uF 25V Electrolytic Radial220uF 16V Electrolytic Radial22uF 50V Electrolytic Radial25-way PCB D-connector PlugPrototyping breadboard 80x60Watch crystal1N4001 Rectifier Diode 1A 50VStripboard 95x64White LED 5mm 30000mcd24V 16A SPST K4TA24 RelayPiezo Transducer with Flying Leads7805 voltage regulator (to get a steady 5v from a wall wart for the breadboard)NE555 timer IC2N3904 NPN transistorBC213 TransistorATTiny2313-20PUlm386 op-ampStandard Toggle SPSTupdates:I have a multimeter, resistors and LEDs and I am buildng an attiny 2313 programmer as well as adding to my collection.

How critical is the .05uf capacitor in this diagram? Can a .1uf capacitor be used instead? I know the 250uf electrolytic capacitor can be replaced with 220uf for coupling, but not sure what effect using a .1uf in place of the .05uf would be?

I've built a hho generator (the spiral electrodes kind) and am trying to use it as a welder i use salt as my electrolyte (should i use something else???) THE PROBLEM IS THAT WHILE I DO GET A CONSTANT FLAME, I DON'T GET A BIG ENOUGH FLAME (it melts metal but it takes ages to do so) does anyone know of a way how i could get more amps to speed up gas production or of any way i could get more preasure (+maybe my gas isn't pure enough because i use salt as an electrolyte, could that be it?)

I want to make a compact battery, I need it to generate as many volts possible. The battery materials are the following: Anode: Zinc Cathode: Steel Electrolyte: Sulfuric Acid Is that the optimal anode and cathode I can use to get most volts out of it?

So, my circuits professor described electrolytic capacitors today, and said that reverse-biasing them could cause a catastrophic, eye-popping explosion. All that in a little metal can? I had to try it! Here's what it takes:

 I'm trying to anodise aluminium at home and have managed it once, dying the aluminium afterwards in ink to get pretty colours.  Sulphuric acid is the electrolyte we used, but it is virtually impossible to get hold off, is there anything else which could be used instead

Okay; two questions regarding electrolysis. What should i use as an electrolyte? When I used salt, I got Hydrogen and Chlorine, and I want Hydrogen and Oxygen. Next, What should I use for my anode and cathode? I've heard of carbon rods and titanium rods, but i don't know where to get them from.?

Hi, I was wondering what kind of battery chemistry I could use with thin film battteries. Something like a sheet of Material: A then a shet of paper Towel soaked in electrolyte, then Material: B. What should I use for Materials A and B? Aluminum foil/carbon paper, Aluminum foil, Copper Foil, Zinc Foil, Carbon Paper?

My cousin has an old Crackle plate, like those funky sci-fi glass plates that have lighting that looks like electricity flowing through it, like you get at Spencer's. The edge of the glass broke, and I was wondering if I could use the HV source to charge a bank of electrolytic capacitors for a Marx bank.

Can anyone make a more detailed tutorial of this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jz14eOgTKDY MATERIAL: 1. Four Germanium Diodes (1N34). 2. Two 100µF 50V electrolytic capacitors. 3. Tw0 0.2µF 50V ceramic capacitors. 4. Some kinda antenna The circuit plan is at the end of the video. Can anyone make a video and show the exact steps to create this? And If possible to on a larger scale. Thanks.

I am wanting to know the best values/ most used values in electronics projects for resistors, capacitors, and transistors. Suggestions? Also when purchasing capacitors, ceramic vs. electrolyte? Are ceramic mostly for lower capacitance values? And lastly what is the difference between a 10k resistor and a 10 Ohm resistor. What I have figured out is that the 10k is a higher resistance value.  Thanks, diamondmine

Hello Everyone, I recently found out about Sodium Hydroxide as an electrolyte. I have read that it does not affect the electrodes like salt or baking soda and it does not create any weird gasses like chlorine. The main reason for using stainless steel electrodes is to prevent this corrosion, but since sodium hydroxide does not create this corrosion, can I just use the much cheaper iron or regular steel as the electrode plates? Thanks in advance  

On my tube radio, i just replaced all the wax and paper caps with mylar and ceramic ones and electrolytic for the power supply caps. the FM side still does not work. has no static or any sound. AM works perfectly with no hum. any ideas on why the FM dont work? IF transformers maybe? all tubes seem to be lighting up. i really want this thing to work!

I have a research to make Dye-Sensitized Solar Cell-DSSC and i should make every materials by myself in Lab. how can i make TiO2 and from which sources ? to be more cheap and easy . and what is an alternative material for Iodide ( electrolyte ) in DSSC? thank you for replying and for sharing your knowledge about. :) 

Suppose that there is a mix signal (with 60vdc+110vrms). now i want to completely block the dc component (OBVIOUSLY I NEED A CAPACITOR BUT)what should be the specifications* of the capacitor. and if i want to reduce the the dc component to 15v then what should be the specification of the capacitor. ALSO            i need the complete calculation/procedure required to find each of the value of the capacitor. *by specification i mean 1- capacitance 2- voltage rating 3- type (ceramic/electrolytic etc)

Hi, The Diagram shows a capacitor (orange-brown color) which reads 1.1k and 250V now it does not make sense that its value is 1.1kF . some people say that it may be 1.1k x 1pF = 1.1nF . but if its like this then why not just write 1.1nF. and what is the type of the capacitor i guess it is metalized poly-propylene film capacitor is this true ? also that what is the application of such types of capacitors like electrolytic are used generally in power supplies etc?

I am using copper cylinder, iron rod, cork (to seal and stabilize), and an electrolyte - probably red wine vinegar. I am using a glazed vase to house it.  It all assembles well.  The model I am following, from a youtube video produced .4 volts.  I cannot find a tester that detects such low voltage. Can one be recommended, or, is there another way to demonstrate the voltage? any response to this question or in general would be greatly appreciated.  Helping my son with a science project.  thanks, brad

I have a Bose amp to fix (car), which in this case means changing out the electrolytic capacitors, as bose used a bunch of not quite sealed ones way back when. So the question is: can I just use the ones I can salvage from all the various boards I've collected, or do they need to be the same brand/grade whatever? I know about polarity and rating (i can reed!?) and can solder/desolder pretty well. I know that there may be other prob's, though the capacitor issue was well known & documented on the web. Thanks to all who help out.

I'm interested in testing some electrolytic capacitors I have, as well as some unmarked ceramic disc capacitors.  Which one of these would work best for me? Would this hvac one work? http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-CM1555-Digital-Capacitance-Meter/dp/B0002HDTDQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid;=1365901716&sr;=8-1&keywords;=capacitance+meter http://www.amazon.com/Capacitor-Capacitance-Meter-Tester-20mf--200pf/dp/B007MHBCFG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid;=1365901716&sr;=8-3&keywords;=capacitance+meter Thanks!

I am looking for thin stainless steel sheets to use as the electrodes for an oxyHydrogen producing "dry cell" set up to power a welding / cutting torch. It should be in sheets that can be evenly devided into 6 inch squares.  I am not sure what alloy it has to be so if you know about stainless steel alloys I would love advice. The electrolyte will be NaOH, and it will probably run at 120V AC at as many amps as it will draw but I might put in one of those light dimmer knobs to control it a little.

Hey everyone ! I'm trying to throw together a small audio project Using a electrolytic Mic, an amp, and a small speaker, Basically a Hearing Aid. I'm probably going to use small breakout boards (a mic pre-amp, and a power amp) then hook them up to the speaker but I would like to know if anyone has another Idea? Voltage can be 3.3-5V (Running off a Li-po) Speakers are 8-Ohm, 1.5W I'm not looking for outstanding quality, just clear enough to Easily follow a conversation. Preferably from standard components. Any Ideas? Thanks, Wired Mist

Tried to repair to electronic chokes of 4' tube light but cdn't succeed. I'll be grateful if any one can provide a step by step guide with test voltages etc. at important points in the ckt.  Already done/checked - Physical checking of any damage/burn marks etc., DC voltafe after rectification is OK, Filter capacitor after rectification is chkd OK, other electrolytic capacitors chkd. OK, one of the 13005 transistors was found defective - changed but no result, Voltages at the transistor terminals chkd and seem to be OK. May pls contact bnber_2004@yahoo.co.in B.N.Bhattacharya

The outline is that you can deposit graphite oxide (a cheap bulk material) onto a film of PET (the plastic used in Coke bottles), hit it with a commodity infra-red laser (such as the one in a $30 LightScribe DVD burner) and end up with a form of activated carbon material that can be used as the electrode in an electrolytic capacitor.  Add some aluminium foil, separator membrane and electrolyte and you've got cheap, robust energy storage.  The headline numbers are a few hundred milliFarads per cubic centimetre at a few volts, which works out to 1.36kWh per cubic metre of stacked capacitors.  It's still about 50 times less energy per volume than lead acid batteries, but you could store as much energy as your house will need overnight in the size of a garden shed or a set of bunk beds.  They charge/discharge in seconds and retain >95% capacity at 10,000 cycles so seem suitable for storage to even out intermittent energy generation from, for example, solar or wind power. I'm really thinking about cost here- unless I'm missing something fundamental it doesn't seem like producing these on a high volume roll-to-roll process would be excessively difficult, and the cycle life means the replacement time would be many years even in heavy usage.  Could you get sufficient kWh per dollar to make these a viable storage mechanism for home-scale renewables? There's a more informative article here.

I love electronics, and pranks, so I want to rig some things to "fail" by releasing smoke, and I figured what better way than resistors? I was wondering though, if I get some 1/8th watt 1 ohm resistors, will I be able to burn them out with the voltage from say, a USB port, or a double a battery or two? I was also wondering, is there anywhere online I can get some electrolytic capacitors, not super tiny ones, but moderate size that are only a couple volts?

See the schematic and these are the parts and please make a breadboard version IC1: LM555 Timer IC Q1: 2N3906 PNP transistor R1: 100K potentiometer R2: 3.9 Kohm resistor R3: 10 Kohm resistor R4: 47 Kohm resistor C1, C3: 0.01-µF disc (non-polarized) capacitor C2: 1.0-µF electrolytic or tantalum (polarized) capacitor Speaker: 8-ohm, 0.5-watt speaker(i also tried a buzzer) Photoresistor: I used a LDR aren't they the same? The buzzer goes off(not off. it's like explosions"The bomb went off") when light hits the photoresistor.

So I'm having this project that calls for a high voltage capacitor bank. I bought 10 450V 330uF electrolytic caps and want to make a 2kv (with safety margin) cap bank. I wired 5 of them in series and I end up with 2 sets of caps. My question is how would I connect those sets in parallel? Do I just connect the ends together (exhibit 1) or do I connect all the caps together (exhibit 2)? Thank you for reading!