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Me and my friends are having a competition on who can fill their periodic tables with the purest element samples for the least amount of money. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for how to get less common elements such as gallium, tungsten, calcium, sodium, etc.

Ok, so I need a small heating element to reach between 200-365 F that can be powered by small batteries. Got any ideas?

I have two electric heating elements I would like to sell. they are good enough for melting metal and fireing pottery, they will also come with the control eletronics too. you can make gingerys "little Bertha" if you want. I pulled them out of a huge eletric furnes for heating a building, they are good but you would need to figure out the controls. they are quite long. there are two coils per stack, so you would get 4 coils. the first picture is with a 12 ruler to show the length ( it reads 10.5 inches)all I want is $30 and $25 for shipping..... the cost is hard to beat!just send me a comment if you want them!

Hello I am developing a small device which requires  a sound alarming. The idea of the device is to be attached to your phone for example and if you wonder where your phone is, the device will turn on the sound alarming in order to give you information for its location. So, I am searching for a buzzer element which: - consumes up to 3.6 V; - is small (diameter up to 20 - 25 mm) and thin of course; I decided to use a buzzer element similar to this one http://www.digikey.co.uk/product-detail/en/CEB-20D64/102-1126-ND/412385 but I am not sure if it will do the job. I am concerned about something else, I have a buzzer at home which produces sound of high frequency and when you close your eyes it is absolutely impossible to find out where the sound comes from. Can somebody help me, please? Thanks a lot!!!

Is there any way I could make a DIY heating element? Or, if not, is there anywhere I get get one on the cheap?

This is to show you guys a new ball machine element I invented called fireworks. It's also kind of a little teaser for my ball machine that is currently in construction, Project A.

Does anyone know how to convert an electric heating element (the wire coiled around ceramic type) to operate at 500 watts it runs at 1000 watts at present

I've found permittivity and permeability tables of the common metals, but none with all the elements. I know they measure them.

Elemental LED hosts office DIY Challenge, names Instructables as their source for DIY inspiration and help Elemental LED recently posted an article about their office DIY Challenge to see who can create the best LED projects. You might remember Elemental LED as the sponsors to our summer LED Contest.  The video talks about Elemental's place in DIY culture and why sharing creations on Instructables is important. In the video you can see some of the projects they created during their DIY Challenge party, they also mention how Instructables is their place to come and get inspiration and guidance for their creations. The video includes footage filmed at the Instructables lab, and appearances by our very own Bilal and Carley! via Elemental LED

Hi. I need a little help from experienced people. I want to control a Peltier element with a microcontroller, with PWM. May? The peltier element has the following parameters: Imax=8.5 A, Vmax=15.4V.Ok... I have a 12 volt source,17A for example. How can i design the circuit so that i can control the peltier element?I use TEC-40-33-127. A link to the peltier element data sheet is:https://eu.mouser.com/datasheet/2/433/Wakefield_Ve...

I need to make an ajustable heater element. Here are the outlines/ Specs for this. Power 120v from wall Heat range needs to be between 70F to about 300F Heater will be attached to a 1in dia pipe and will be melting plastic. I have no clue how to go about doing this. I need some help with what components I need to buy, how to hook them up and what type of wire is the best for the element itself.

I have found out this new element that works at high speeds better. When it turns I recommend you keep a guardrail below. This is better when this is high up in the air because it will get more speed.

I have some 28AWG Kanthal wire and lets say i just wanted to make a heating element. I will connect the wire to a 5.0 V dc power adapter. Is there anything i have to put in series with the wire just to make sure everything works okay, or can i just have it connected to the power supply with nothing in series.

Hello everyone, another question! I am working on an Arduino Uno powered thermostat/ liquid heater. I would like to know if anyone knows how to make a 5v fully submersible heating element or the likes. I am connecting it to a relay that will switch on and heat the liquid inside a container when the temp drops below 30 degrees C. Any Ideas?

I am trying to add a bit of interactivity to my personal website and have seen several example pieces of code for toggling elements. I tried the code that everyone shows me, but I have two problems: @ It doesn't toggle. @ The element starts out shown. I've looked through every part of my code and can't find a single fault. I would really appreciate any help. Here is the code:    http-equiv="content-type">   function toggle(obj) { var el = document.getElementById(obj); if ( el.style.display != 'none' ) { el.style.diplay = 'none'; } else { el.style.display = '' } }     Test doc click Hello I read something about jQuery on the site - Do I have to download it?

A peltier is a element that gets very hot on one side, and very cold on the other side. Cold enough (with enough power) to make frost all over it. So. I got one, I want to make nice cold cold air. I read wiki, if you don't heat sink it, it will self destroy. If I heatsink the cold side, then a fan on the heat sink to blow the cold freeze air, will it be fine? Or must I cool the hot side too? Peltiers are cool :D

I have a container (8cm by 8cm by cm) to store powdery food. But the food gets clumped together to the container walls. As such, I am thinking of coming up with a mini heating device to keep the container warm to prevent the clumping of the powder food. Am quite noob to this and would like to hear suggestions and ideas to come up with a simple diy device.

Hey, I have 2 158W Peltier elements, that I would like to mount to some CPU-heatsinks, and power with an old 400W PSU. Can I "just do that"? There seams to be some caveats with how these units draw power AFAIK. Also, does anyone have any experience with how much heat displacement is needed to not just ending up frying the unit? Any suggestions on what heatsink to pair them with, and how strong a resistor to put on them? I want to use them at the maximum power I can get them to run with continuously for up to 2 hours. I have way too limited experience with electronics, and only a week to build my project, so I kind of have to go with the simplest approach here :(

So heres my problem ( wishing again somebody will come whit a solution )Im tryying to ignite a little cotton tissu sqaure , which have lighter fuel on it, whit a NiChrome wire....All what i got its some smoke but no flames .... (the smoke stops when i turn off the NiChrome wire)So do someone have a idea to light up a cotton tissu pad (whit lighter fuel on it) whitout using the flink tingythx MaximePS 1 : this is what i wanna do (ecxept not in a wallet)http://youtube.com/watch?v=2njiK1dsWQM

If anybody has some general tips/calculation about wire thickness, length, material. Im not even sure which way to adjust. If I make an element that doesn't get hot then I either need to make the element wire thinner or shorter, right? I'm trying to make a 20-50 watt element. Variable would be nice. I have a multimeter. seem to be having trouble getting a steady reading on lengths of wire for some reason. 

My kenwood cooker was sparking and deposited a grey dust inside

I am trying to construct a heating element, preferably out of nichrome, for heating a small box (24 * 40 * 13 cc). The box is covered on all sides, so the heat dissipation from the box will be very low, as per estimate. I think a 12V supply would suffice for the nichrome wire. The only thing is, I need to maintain the box at an ambient temperature of about 38 degrees. Any thoughts on how I could go about constructing the heating element?

I’m seeking advice on building a battery powered heating element, goal being 1300 degrees Fahrenheit.  I have a 4.8v 4200mah battery and Kanthal A-1 20, 26, 30 gauge wire, but am not limited to this material. The element will be a circle with a diameter of about an inch, similar design to a range coil.   Hoping someone can help me, feel free to ask any further questions.

I have a vintage microphone that is in pretty poor shape. The coil inside the element has broken off on one side and I would have to slightly unwind the coil in order to be able to pass the magnet wire back through far enough to reattach it. On top of that, the transformer inside the mic was wired in a very odd manner and someone has clearly tampered with it, so who knows what has been done to it. I am considering buying a new dynamic mic element and replacing the old one with it entirely. Can anyone recommend a preferred source for buying decent mic elements without having to but a whole microphone? At that, anyone know where to buy vintage mic elements?

I have a few small projects in mind that have come to a standstill because I lack one piece.  What I would like to get my hands on are small heating elements capable of temps between 80-400 degrees F that are as accurate as possible, preferably within two degrees. I have tried researching this online, but after browsing for an hour I was unable to come up with anything that would suit my needs.  I have considered buying a digital heat gun, but I can't find reliable info on how accurate they are and what range they have. I don't want anyone to think I am trying to build bombs or anything like that so here are two of the applications I had in mind. The first is my truck.  From what I understand those 'super chips' people buy to override the computer and add power typically change the air/fuel ratio.  That can be done by manipulating the perceived temperature of the air entering the intake.  My idea is to create a small housing around the airbox thermostat and digitally manipulate the termp in order to manipulate the A/F ratio.  My second idea is...well...best not discussed openly, but I assure you it has nothing to do with the creation of weapons of any kind. Any thoughts?

give the element

I wish to attach a piece of heating element wire to the two ends of a cord& plug directly into wall.  Wrapping the heating element in a pattern around a cane-stock; I will plug directly into the wall to burn the pattern into the cane. I'm not sure of size-limits for household 110 volt current. (I dont want the wire to burn up, or not get hot enough) Anyone have that info?  Thanks for your time.      

Hi there! I noticed how hard it is to find elements for your k'nex ball machine. So I decided to make a guide so you don't have to waste time searching for elements! So, if you have made a ball machine with new elements, please tell me and either post a link or attach photos so I can add them to a future instructable!     K'nexers who have given me permission to do this with their elements:       Sandroknexmaster

Request for help:  Does anyone know how to remove the heating element from a hair dryer to have it only blow cold/cool air?  I've opened it up and there are a lot more wires than I expected.  I have just enough electrical knowledge to be a little bit above dangerous, so I thought it would be best to ask for help.  Thanks!

Hello, I am new to the world of tinkering but  I would like to attempt something. I am trying to build a portable heating element that would only need to reach about 70-100 degrees and be attached to a piece of metal to allow the metal to absorb the heat. Now with this idea I am trying to make it 100% portable, thinking of utilizing 4 AA batteries and a switch so the element is not required to be on all the time. I thought about pulling an element out of a cordless curling iron or something and trying that but was not sure if it would reach the correct temp or be able to last about a month or so with moderate use. I am not very well versed in the circuitry world so the amps - volts thing is a little fuzzy for me so I apologize in advanced if I do not completely understand your responses. Thank you, Alex

Hi All, My thought was this, I live in New England and of course there is a lot of snow and ice in the winter.  I am going to have an exterior stair that leads to the third floor of my house and keeping them snow and ice free in the winter will be  a major PITA!  I have looked at a lot of different heating products but none seem optimal.  I was thinking, after remembering small heating elements, similar to the coil you could just put into a glass of water to heat it, why couldn't I just turn the steps into a low temp heating element powered from the house's electricity? Is this totally absurd or should it be possible?  Any ides? TIA, Aaron

Greetings! I've decided to run a small contest, in the hopes of us folk here at instructables coming up with some new and exciting ball machine elements and lifts. All you need to do is post a photo and description (video would be awesome too!) of your newfangled ball machine element or lift in the comments below. The criteria you will be judged by are originality, execution and aesthetics. The deadline is October 31st, giving you a whole month to work on your elements/lifts. Judging will be done my myself, and the winner will be announced shortly after. The winner will receive a 3 month Pro Membership, and if there are 10 or more entries, the winner will receive a 1 year Pro membership, and the runner up a 3 month Pro Membership. Good luck to all! -IaC Update: Winner announced! Judging has taken place! There were many good entries - I thank you all for your participation. The winner I have chosen is Martijnd95 with his concave bowl. He will receive a 3 month pro membership for his creation. Thanks everybody!

Hello, I have the hair dryer which have 2 switch one for the blower and other one for heating, when turn the blower ON the heating coil that connected to the rectifier terminal is work ON and the motor work in slow and high (not perfect working) . There is no short in out circuit . Sorry for mu english thanks

I was thinking what could be fun to build... a ball machine with a dragon theme! This is something that might be improved by some of you people if you can build it by just looking at it on this video. This could also be used for something else like a plain old dragon dragon. I was thinkin of adding this to my ball machine but it could not since its more like a prototype. The grey connector thats connected to the track is suppose to move but it isn't for some reason.

Hi, looking for a bit of advice from electronically literate folks... I'm planning a low-temp water heating device that will keep a water/yeast/sugar solution at around 38C to produce optimum levels of CO2. so far what i have in mind is using a cheap 12v car immersion heater (the type used for making hot drinks on the go), powered by 4 x 3.7v lithium batteries in series (giving me roughly the right voltage range). The part i'm now trying to figure out is regulating the heating of the solution. I'm considering using an LM35 component to monitor the temperature via contact on the outside of the vessel. What i'm stuck on is what other components would i need in the circuit to take the  voltage output of the LM35 and use it to control the 12v immersion heater to maintain a temperature of around 35 degrees? Any advice would be much appreciated, thanks!

Hi Folks, Please does anybody know anything about: Low consumption heating element for cloth iron? I have been informed tha there is a special heating element which one consumes less than 20% of a commom cloth iron. thanks Edson

I need to find a way to shape a rolled  finishing edge with a 14"wide top plastic bottle. I actually thinking about a stainless steel cone that I could heat up to reshaple the edge ....any idea how I could find...make/ do  such a thing?? 

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I have an Amana TEA400-L dryer. I needs to replace the heating element part#61927.After taking the front screws out to open the dryer where is and how do I get the heating element out?

Im for some sort of heating source to boil water in a lightbulb. I initially was thing an immersion heater but thy are too large.  which has lead me to thinking along the lines of building an external coil to do so.   Would this feasibly work? And if so how would i go about doing so? Any input would be a great help or any other ideas on how to go about heating are welcome as well

I have 150W peltier element, and I plan to build a mini  fridge for my car, so I was wondering if its safe to just directly connect peltier element to 12v car cigarette socket with 2 in parallel attached cpu cooling fans (12v 0.15A). Can it be done, or any other sugesstions?

I found this heating element at my college loose in a tech dump. I want to know what type of element it is. Resistance is 8 ohms (when I connect the tester it says 2 then goes up to 8 within about 3 seconds)

How can I get powdered elements. using only equipment found at home/not hard to get/not from e-bay, ones I'm interested in are alluminum and iron oxide (rust), any others which are useful in fun projects would be appreciated?

Even though these pictures appear in the photo catalog they have question marks in the corner and none of these pictures can be accessed, printed or copied etc., so technically have been lost. They cover a number of events, friends, family, years and trips taken. It is devastating. I think someone that  has a good deal of Photoshop knowledge might know what I have done besides not learning how to properly use Adobe Photoshop Elements 6. Any help would be greatly appreciated.  

I would like to make an automatic lighting system for when i open my cupboard. I was wondering if its possible to hook up an LED to a window protecting (piezo element) burglar alarm? I have already removed the piezo element, and i'd extend the length of the LEDs placement across the cupboard, of course, with wires.  My question is, If this works, how many LED's can i solder to one of these units without burning it out? Thanks for any help.

Hi Everyone, this is my first post on this site!  I am seeking advice to help me construct a home-made melting point apparatus (M.P.A).  A melting point apparatus allows it's operator to determine the melting point of a chemical sample by heating it in a controlled fashion and noting the temperature when the sample melts.  I have most of the design made up in my head, but I'm not sure as to how I can obtain the proper heating element.  The heating element I am seeking is an emulation of the M.P.A.s heating elements in my school's chemistry lab, which look like this: a metal block (about 3cm tall by 2cm deep by 3 cm wide) with vertical holes bored into the face with a pane of glass pressed against said holes so a glass capillary tube (containing the sample) can be slid into the bored hole and viewed through the glass pane as the sample is heated by the metal.  Another hole is bored into the metal, adjacent to the sample hole, for a thermometer.  So again, my question is do you have any suggestions as to where I could by a heating element like this?  Or, any suggestions on how to build one?  I have a jewelry shop at my disposal so I can probably bore any holes myself.   Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks!

I've got this little glue gun. On the package it said: 10 watts, AC 120-240V. First of all how is it the same wattage at 120 and 240 volts? I wouldn't think it could be. Another question. I took it apart expecting to find a coil of nichrome like in a soldering iron. That is not what I found. Instead I found that the power cord was soldered to two inch long twisty tie wire looking, insulated wires. I dont know what type of wire that would be. It appeared to be brass or copper on the inside coated in what looked like steel though the wire was not magnetic. These two inch long sections of wire had two little paddle contacts on the end and between them was a little rectangular chunk of aluminum. THe contacts and the aluminum chank were wrapped in orange cellophone it looked like. then Sandwiching that were two more flattish rectangular pieces of aluminum. That whole deal was tightly clipped with a steel clip to the alumium housing/nozzle inside of which the glue melts. My question is-where is the resistor here? Measuring the resistance of the whole glue gun, cold, at the prongs of the plug, the resistance is around 1900 Ohms. I'm seeing some wires hooked to a chunk of aluminum. What am I missing thats creating 1900 Ohms of resistance? It must be that thin cellophane wrapper no? How this type of element works I do not understand. Help?