For my next Instructable (or next next, or more, I don't know yet), I will be using plaster or epoxy. Does anybody know where I can buy this at a local store? No internet stores, because my mom might take me tomorrow. Please post your thoughts/ facts ( :P ), thanks! -GorillazMiko

I needed to use some Marine-TEX epoxy for a project I'm currently working on, and found that I've misplaced the little vial of hardener. Are there any other hardeners I can use for this epoxy? I've quite the collection of various epoxies and hardeners, but I'm not sure if any other hardener will work with the Marine-TEX epoxy resin. Help anyone?

I have a project where I have an antique electronic part that is sealed with epoxy. Is there any way of dissolving the epoxy in order to view the original parts? This is so I can construct a replacement part.?

Hey all, I need epoxt for many reasons, and for many reasons I cannon get/use it. So I am wondering... Does anyone know of a good homemade solution that is comparable to epoxy? It needs to harden to a really solid finish. Thanks!

Has anyone tried epoxing steel lugs to make a bicycle frame? if so what type epoxy? thanks

In my quest for an epoxy/resin that won't yellow when baked for half an hour at 230F, West System 105 resin with 207 clear hardener seems to be the one everybody thinks *might* work.  When I contacted the company, I was told that... "The cured 105/207 should remain clear to 200F. Above 200F to 300F you may see some discoloration. 300 - 400F you will see some discoloration." So I'm in the maybe range.  But seeing as it will cost me around $100 to try it (they don't offer any type of sample size), I'm a bit nervous to buy.  Does anybody here use this epoxy who'd be willing to bake a cured blop in the oven and let me know if it yellows?  I'd really really appreciate it.

I'm doing some craft projects where I'm attaching small LED lights behind pieces of glass and crystal-type stones.  Then I'm adding some decorative elements using Fimo clay.  The problem is, due to certain LED and clay placement, I need to bake the clay *after* connecting it to the glass/stones.  So the entire piece goes in the oven.  The lights and solder hold up just fine to the 230 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes.  My epoxy, however, turns very yellow.  If I have a blue piece of glass with a white LED epoxied to it, it shines very much green.  So basically, does anybody know of an epoxy that won't go yellow when exposed to heat?

Hi, I am looking to do an artwork where the final product is a clear plastic resin or epoxy sculpture with various items such as plastic forks and straws inside it. I got this idea from resin flooring which has crushed up beer bottles and screws in it, and now I need some advice. Currently I am thinking that I will make the sculpture from polystyrene and make a mould out of plaster of Paris by pouring the plaster over it in a tub of some sort. Is polystyrene a suitable material to base the mould off and can resin or epoxy be cast in plaster of Paris? Also, how might I go about making 2 parts to the mould which can join together and which I can pour resin in through a hole? Regards.

So I'll be making a hanging wall plaque that will have pictures epoxied in the center of a split live edge wood piece. I have a couple questions. I'm assuming you stain the wood before the pour correct? What grain do you start sanding at? What do you stop at? Any help would be thanked!!

I'm trying to epoxy two pieces of metal together, I'm mixing the epoxy the right way but once it hardens the piece breaks off, any suggestions? I'm gluing this flat piece of metal to the nut that's glued on the viewfinder.  The nut stays on the viewfinder with the same epoxy so I'm confused about why the other metals won't adhere, should I sand the pieces first? By the way I photographed the wrong side of the flat piece, the side showing has prongs, the other side is flat, the flat side gets glued to the nut. This is a viewfinder from an old Mamiya press camera, not sure what kind of metal it is.

I'm looking for a good place to buy conductive epoxy.  I want it a silver color, not black.  Everywhere I've found is extremely expensive for VERY tiny amounts.  I don't need it to be sterling silver or anything, just a silver-ish color instead of black.

I've been a big fan of epoxy for a long time. It's been recommended to me as the best glue ever, and lately as a great/durable coating to be used like paint. It's so popular that companies are starting to market things as epoxies that might be related but, really are something else. FYI anything sold as a "one part epoxy" is not an epoxy at all. it's something else. Epoxies must be 2 part.My father started building wooden model sailboat, and wanted to use Resorcinol. What?? Never heard of it. can't be good. must be toxic. use epoxy, Dad. Lately, I've heard differently, with some caveats.This was mentioned on www.woodenboat.com forums:http://www.cpadhesives.com/media/ClassicBoatAppendix.pdfThe upshot is that epoxy bond strength weakens dramatically with exposure to heat or (maybe?) saltwater or UV light. Additionally, epoxy's bond is not as fatigue resistant as wood. So using it as a structural bond is questionable. Using it in hot (120F+) environments is questionable. Using it in saltwater environments is questionable.Since boats sit in the sun, tend to flex, and are often exposed to saltwater, how can we possibly use epoxies in long term situations.I had to search hard to find any info on Resorcinol, but it's cheaper, supposedly lasts longer. But, as far as I can tell, it's really hard to find. Comments?

Please help me about resin epoxy, I'm going to build stuff with resin so please share any detail of resin.

The channel is long enough to twistAfter slathering the mixture around the foam in the channel Do I wait for the epoxy/flox mixture to dry before applying the fiberglass strips? Will the epoxy bond to the aluminum without specific surface prep? Thanks in advance

My son's friend 'dropped' his phone. Being quoted upwards of £50 to fix. My husband is wondering whether an epoxy could be used to fill in the cracks - as all is working. It's just the shards on front of screen are at present dangerous - I can testify to that as we took off the cling film we had initially covered it in at the repair shop - put it back in my handbag - and I then ended up with small slivers of glass embedded in my thumb. Nice. It's just such a shame. Was an old contract phone, given as a present to my son - and everything works !! Epoxy seems so easy - but will it ruin the phone?

This is for an adaptation of a lamp. What I want is to cover the bulb with a large (little smaller than a basketball) sphere, so there will be a hole in one end. Light obviously needs to be able to shine through. My first thought was a resin of some sort, and a quick search led me to epoxy resin. Is this see-through? Can colour be added? Any other ideas? Some early thoughts: - In an inflated balloon, inject liquid. Rotate, thereby distributing fairly evenly, until liquid hardens. Cons: How long do I have to rotate this balloon? What if it pops!? (Could use a hard container...) - Double boiler: Use two similar bowls, small inside larger, fill in between. Cons: How to get it even? Smaller bowl would float (weigh it down...) Not even close to a sphere With your suggestions I'll do a few trials, possibly put out an instructable if something works. All suggestions are welcome (even if they deviate a little). Thanks!

So i recently made the mistake of staining a piece i want to later apply an epoxy coat to, with an oil based stain. I’ve been reading around online and fully understand now that applying the epoxy to this would be quite the no no. Looking for some guidance on how to correct this mistake. Any help would be greatly appreciated. The stain was minwax oil base and the epoxy is famowood glaze coat.

Hi people! I have spilled resin (for crafting) over a pair of jeans and now it makes a hard spot where the resin has cured. I think I've ruined the trousers (obviously...) but I've seen someone on another thread saying that to remove epoxy you just have to heat it. But does it work on cured epoxy resin? That has been in the washing machine more than once? Thanks for your answers :)

I would like to cover my garage floor with epoxy paint.  How must the floor be prepped?  Whose product is best?  Any bits of advice?

Hi! I recently got a new laptop and I covered the top cover with stickers and it looks pretty good if I do say so myself. I didn't want the stickers to peel up or anything so I went on over to the hardware store and bought some Krylon Crystal Clear spray, which is an acrylic lacquer based spray. I sprayed a whole 32 coats on that sucker and it was still paper thin. It's as if I simply made the surface shiny, and the stickers could still easily peel up. So I did a lot of research and I found a lot of things but I figured a 2 part pour on epoxy resin was the best choice. It's thick, self leveling, self doming, and it cures instead of air drying. My goals from the beginning were to eliminate surface texture altogether. I want the end product to be like those table top bars with stuff encased inside within a clear glass-like coating. I have found a lot of stuff, but I have yet to find anyone that has done what I am trying to do, and since it's my new laptop, I have concerns. How durable will the epoxy be? I want to make sure that it will be able to withstand the life of a college student, although I'm a quite careful one at that. Will the epoxy have any trouble bonding and staying bonded to the Krylon spray? It's an acrylic lacquer based coating according to the company. I don't want the shell of epoxy separating from the top of the laptop. I'm worried about bumping the edges and having the epoxy chip off or just separate altogether. That last question is the main and most important one, really. The last thing I want happening is for the epoxy to dry and then separate from the laptop or crack or chip or something. The epoxy I've settled on for now is Envirotex Lite, I'm not sure how much epoxy differs between manufacturers. I've emailed several companies asking lots of questions and I've gotten a lot answered, but these ones have yet to be solved. Thank you so much for reading this and any input or advice would be greatly appreciated!

The colored resin-epoxy mix was poured into a bezeled siver shape. It is my first attempt with resin.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       

I was working on a belt buckle with colored epoxy, but i screwed up mixing in the hardener. so it's still wet in some places and then it hardened real ugly in others. is there anything i can do about it or should i start over?

I tried to make a USB thumb drive and messed it up. It was quick drying epoxy so it's set really hard. I've tried scraping it off - works but takes too long. I don't know what heating it will do to the USB drive. Any ideas on how to take it off?

Does anyone know of something that is cheapish and suitable for 3D printing by being extruded from a thin tube, and cures immediately on contact with a dried bit of itself, or exposure to another chemical or something?  It must be practical to put though a tube at low pressure, and again, cure almost instantly once it comes out of the tube.  Traditional 3D extruders will NOT work, as the device needs to be able to distribute to hundreds of tiny tubes at once (I cant cut a plastic filament into 300 pieces lengthwise, if you can, good job!), plus that I would have only about 1/4"-1/8" x 1/4"-1/8" x 6" to fit the device into. 

Plastic to plastic: "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy? What are the pros and cons of each? I need to glue two different types of plastic together, and I'm not sure if I should use "contact adhesive" or two-part epoxy. Or, I could use contact adhesive on the facing surfaces, let it cure, and then add epoxy around the edges where the parts join. I'm not exactly sure what types of plastics these are. So far the contact adhesive seem to be curing well and I'm hopeful that two-part epoxy will also work well. I'm building a mount to hold a camera to a bicycle (and plan to publish a how-to when it's done), so it will need to be strong, resistant to vibration and weather, and strong. I really don't want to drop the camera: It's close enough to a wheel that a tether could cause more immediate problems than letting the camera hit the ground. Thanks! Update: Both the contact adhesive and epoxy (separately) seem to be holding the test pieces well. It'll be another 18+ hours before I really start yanking on them but it seems like either type of adhesive would be decent. Of course, I want more than decent; I want excellent!

I've asked quite a few questions regarding prop building, as to try and get back to my project. Major issue is the VOC of body filler and fiberglass resin. However, I think I found a soultion to it. I was curious as to how hard epoxy wood filler is once cured. Is it something that (god forbid) if coated onto something, and said something is dropped, will the epoxy be damaged? How hard is it work with (ie, can I heat it up to make it 'thinner')? Thanks in advance! 

I am mounting 15 Cree LEDs to get an old overhead projector to work as a video projector. the only thing I am wondering is whether thermal epoxy is better to use than thermal grease with bolts and nuts attached to a heatsink. Do both have the same heat dissipation? What I am trying to do is still use the LEDs for use with other projects in case i need them for something else.

Hello all, I'm building a DIY wood aquarium conopy/hood and I'm thinking of using Rust-Oleum appliance spray paint for the interior, was wondering if anyone has every used it on wood? Or any suggestions for aquarium hood interior paint. Thinking of either that or using some white spray paint and then a top coat of spar urethane? Any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!

Does anyone know of a solution that becomes a clear solid other than an expensive epoxy? I am filling 48" vases with broken glass holding tree branches for an event. I need to permanently anchor these. I have been using an epoxy made for this application however, because of the size the cost is becoming prohibitive. Parafin is not strong enough. The sodium silicate from the "cash for clunkers" program is not clear. Ice is not practical. Even something I could melt and reset may work.

I want to play around with building a recumbent bike and a rear steer trike type bike but I dont have access to a welder, would gorilla glue or a jbweld like epoxy be strong enough to use?

Hi all, I'm a student working on a project, and i've run into a bit of a problem finding a material such as an epoxy or resin that can be molded to fit a groove, and be drilled into once dry. I have a plastic rim that I would like to fill in the grove where the inner tube would normally be.  https://engineering.purdue.edu/ece477/Archive/2008/Spring/S08-Grp12/pics/Wheel01.jpg This picture is similar to the rim we have.  If anyone has any suggestions, they would be greatly appreciated. 

Hello, I am currently working on a project where a plastic rim needs to be filled in. The area where the inner tube would normally go needs t be completely filled in and drilled into once it is cured.  https://engineering.purdue.edu/ece477/Archive/2008/Spring/S08-Grp12/pics/Wheel01.jpg This is a picture of a rim similar to the one we are using. The material would be strong and ideally not too expensive.  if anyone has any ideas, I would very much like to hear them.  Thank you!

Hi i am lookin forward to new projects but am at a lack of  materials. I know i should buy this stuff but i thought i should try my luck at this.Thanks for your help.

I just love these lamps from Axel De Witte: http://alexdewitte.nl/?p=44 Is it in any way possible to create similar very big bubble glass with either acrylic or epoxy or something similar? I have something in mind of a balloon in the shape I want and then spray painting it with epoxy resin or similar many times and then in the end remove the balloon inside.

Hello, Im thinking about trying to make a bong or water pipe out of epoxy resin, what kind of food grade resin should I use? I cant find answer anywhere as it should be quite safe and should not give any additional taste? FOR TOBACCO & LEGAL USE ONLY!

Hi, I need to glue an acrylic sheet over a wood maze, which size is around 12x24", so there would be a lot of line to apply the epoxy over it, I think it would take me around 15 minutes of even less I am fast and prepared for it, so I was thinking in using a slow set epoxy. Please any info or advice, how slow can a epoxy be? I would be glad with a 45 minute epoxy, but will it really dry until passed that time? thanks.

​Hello casting helpers! I would like to make a cast of this angel. The original is about 18" tall. This is a picture of it that I superimposed in this scene. I'm not sure what it will be sitting on since I'm not sure of the cemetery's requirements. Ideally, I'd like to make it look like alabaster, with varying textures of off white and translucent shades. Being that the pour will be heavy, the cast needs to be heavy duty. Also, when taking off the cast, I'd prefer not to harm the original, although that can be done if necessary. It needs to be of a material that will withstand the test of time, hence, I'm thinking that epoxy may be a good medium. If there's something like a JB Weld that is pourable, that would be great. I have installed black epoxy tops in laboratories, a very hard substance. Any suggestions you might have would be very much appreciated. I am in a time crunch, so please let me know AYSC (at your soonest convenience). Thanks so much! I have posted pictures of what I want the final product to look like: https://www.instructables.com/answers/Casting-resin-or-epoxy-in-a-mould/

I plan on making an insert that goes into an experimental flume.  The frame of the insert will be about 3" x 24" and will be constructed of acrylic.  Onto the surface of the insert i will affix a rough bed of stone/rock.  Stones will be ~ half-inch diameter.  Does anyone have guidance as to what type of material (epoxy?) I should use for the base of the flume into which the rocks will be placed?

I have an aluminum rice steamer ball that I need to seal the interior of.  It will hold candies so it needs to be food safe.  I'm looking for either some sort of food safe epoxy or silicone material that I can use to either just plug the steamer ball holes or line the entire interior surface.  Any ideas?

I'd like to hear some suggestions for separating sand and water in a 4" diameter glass vase. I'm doing an arduino project that involves having a dyed deep blue mineral oil as a non-evaporating "water" atop about 4 inches of sand in a glass vase. I experimented with drizzling Loctite epoxy and it leaked about 1/4" into the sand, so it wasn't very elegant (created a layered look - dry sand, wet sand, epoxy, water). I'd like the delineation to be as clean, but easily implemented, as possible. Worst case scenario is that I wrap something around the vase to hide the transition, but I'd like to avoid that if possible.  I suppose another option is to stack 2 separate glass vessels, but im struggling with thinking of a good way to do that too... Perhaps this is also a non-issue...I should see if the deep blue mineral oil is even visible if put directly INTO the sand. Thanks in advance.

I'm trying to waterproof the inside of a box by gluing plastic to the sides. The plastic is already in the right shape (I melted the edges together). The problem is that the epoxy sticks to the wood but not the plastic. It just peels right off. Any suggestions? It doesn't even have to be glue. You'll probably hate to hear this, but lots of stuff isn't available here, hence hackish solutions are probably the best. Thanks for any help. Just so you can get the idea a bit better I'm attaching a picture.

I'm working on a portable high power LED system and I'm thinking of potting it in silicone for durability. It is gonna get banged around a lot...  I need a little guidance. I've searched the internet and I can't figure out what silicone to buy? I'm looking for something as cheap as possible, but it needs to dry clear and feel somewhat like rubber when it is dry. Can someone help me find a CHEAP product online that will allow for this? Or maybe I should use epoxy? (would that come out really hard and plastic-like when it dries?) Also can someone point out the pros and cons of using this method? Will the epoxy increase the chances of the circuit overheating? Should I embed heat syncs against the mosfets and leds or what? An example of this occurring is in this instructable: https://www.instructables.com/id/Power-LED-s---simplest-light-with-constant-current/step9/permanant-ize-it/

 I am planning on building a version of the CC14 or NC16 from bateau.com. I would like to keep my costs down on this project as I just bought a car, but would still like to build this boat so I can get out on the water along with my wife who has a kayak. I was wondering if I could just use epoxy/fibatape combo to seal the seams and add strength where the panels come together, and then just use something like rubberized roof sealant (like used on the CozyBoat by TimAnderson) to seal the rest of the plywood from rot. Anyone have any ideas on this? Thanks.

Hello. I would like to know what is the melting point for most integrative circuits epoxy molded plastics ? The kind of plastic I am talking about would be the ones used for BGA chips found in smart phone IC's (integrative circuits). I would think that a decent powerful household kitchen microwave should have enough power to melt this type of epoxy material used for BGA IC's. I would like to de-cap the BGA. PLEASE note that I will be using a cheap throw away kitchen microwave to melt the IC and the BGA is not important even if the heat generated damages the die layers made of silicon. This is strictly for hobby purposes. The same question but does anyone know what kind of metal is the bottom part (the tiny metal circles ie solder balls) of a BGA IC made from ?

I want to try to build a bamboobike like Ayasbek.... but I need to know quantity of fiber and resin I have to sell... Thanks for your reply and experiences...

 Im trying to find some acrylic but dont want to spend the ungodly amount of money that new acrylic costs.  Sometimes I find some good pieces at goodwill but that's about it.  Any ideas?

Hey makers, just wondering about how i should finish a wooden paddle board a plan to make, epoxy resin is quite expensive just wondering is there a cheaper alternative, should i use polyester resin or not, also is yacht varnish a viable option

I'm looking into making myself a Go set. It's a very old Asian board game. There are a couple instructables on making a board itself, which is pretty straightforward. My problem is in the manufacture of the stones. Basically the stones are flattened out marbles in either black or white. The idea is a bi-convex round stone, usually between 5 and 9.2mm thick, around the size of an average thumbnail. Traditionally these are made out of agate, slate or something similar. My goal is to produce stones that are hard and rather heavy, to mimic the actual stone feel as much as possible. I'm going to need 361 stones for a set, and I want to make several sets (maybe half a dozen). My current best bet is to press clay stones with a mold, fire them without a glaze to avoid non-uniform surface due to contact points, then spray an acrylic coat for color and texture. I was hoping someone might have other suggestions. I was considering an epoxy/resin option that I could press in a mold, then dry into a hardened, dense synthetic stone. But I know very little about epoxies and my options in this. I've considered glass and machined metal, but I lack the facilities and skills. Stone is beautiful but I don't know where to start with detail grinding and mass production at the same time. Wood would be great, but I would have to find/make the world's smallest lathe and I think the man hours needed would be impractical due to the quantities. I'm limited in tools, resources and knowledge on the subjects at hand. I like the idea of making a mold with which I could press several stones at once. Cheap is good and the ability to do this without a kiln would be great. The clay seems my best option but my kiln access is limited, so firing upwards of a thousand stones would be difficult. So if you have experience with a synthetic that I could pour and harden, I would greatly appreciate it.