If I etch a pyrex dish, can I use it in the oven afterwards? Thank you .
Question by sexymom04 | last reply
I made an instructables about salt and water etching https://www.instructables.com/id/SALT-AND-WATER-E...as I learned it in a jewelry class, so I never tough about been unsafe. I posted it as I tough it was a nice one to share, but I'm having some comment on how it should not be safe using stainless steel in this project. As I don't have absolute knowledge about this before, and I just report what I learned, I was wondering if that was correct or not. (I know sometimes people comment very random stuff). Anybody know something about this topic?
Topic by marcellahella | last reply
Yes i know there has been a question about this already... but im asking it again. Can you etch a pcb with bleach? I dont really want to go out and find ferric chloride or hydrochloric (muratic) acid :) I just wanted to know if this would work. Also pros and cons would be good too, if not possible i can find a place with the right chemicals.. :) Thanks!
Question by astroboy907 | last reply
I know that copper is a better conductor than tin or aluminum. But one of my friends a few days ago told me that instead of etching his layout on copper, he used the bottom of an altoids tin. he said all he did was sand the bottom until there was no paint of the altoids can and then he etched his layout. (Chemical bath, toner, etc.) So my question is, Does anyone know how to etch custom layouts (toner layouts) on tin or aluminum? **I figure this could save people some money and time on some projects. :)
Topic by batboy61490 | last reply
I wanted to start making PCBs. However, I read that because the chemicals dissolve the copper, you can't dump it down the sink or throw it away because it is "hazardous" and should be taken to hazardous waste disposal. I'm still in high school and can't really do that and/or my parents would think I'm doing something dangerous. Is there any other way to etch PCBs besides using chemicals, like a knife or something?
Question by 7654321 | last reply
To print out a pcb circuit you need magazine paper, a transparency or photo paper. Well I was just wondering if I can just take magazine paper out of a actual magazine if its a blank page and print right on to that and then iron that on to my pcb?
Question by Kante Tech | last reply
I want to use press-n-peel thati use with the PCB's I make, to etch small detailed parts for model making, out of brass. What would be the proper ratio to mix Muratic acid with h2o2 so it will not eat away the mask material. I cover the back of the brass sheet with electrical tape, to protect the other side
I found this website for the etch-o-matic and thought how cool. I also thought that this has to be something really really easy to make myself if I knew a little more about it. So I'm wondering if anyone knows how to build one of these or if there is already an instructable that for this that I just couldn't find, or if someone knows of another source for further info. If anyone even just knows the generic term for this process that would be a help.I'm also wondering about the stencil http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjYio1YZuCA, is there another, more generic product out there that does the same thing? The development is no problem because I have an old blueprint machine that will do that part nicely. thanks a millionC
Topic by astro347 | last reply
Hi all, I have a DIY boombox project made from a train case where I need a badge made to cover up a "mistake". I can provide an Adobe Illustrator, EPS, DWG, or DXF for the logo and shape of the badge. The finished piece will be 3.25" wide by 1.5" tall. As much as I'd like to do this on my own, I'm not keen on working with acid and don't have the time or work to build my own CNC or laser cutter. I will be happy to pay for time and materials as long as it's reasonable. Also, I'm in Northeast Ohio, if that matters to anyone. Thanks!
Topic by mnmitch57
I am doing an engraving/etching for a gift and I want the lines and spaces to stand out from the metal in a more visual way. Please keep in mind that whatever material I use has to be able to stand up to standard pocket wear. I considered using a spray paint or enamel but I am not sure how well those would stand up to the pocket environment. Certain types of ink seem like they might be good until something wet touched it, but then would be a problem. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Topic by finfan7 | last reply
Hi, Does anyone know of a way to imprint my name in ordinary plastic objects so I can identify them with my name and phone number? I have a metal etching kit, but I can't seem to find anything similar with plastic. I know that I can scribe it by hand with a dremel, but I want something more regular and 'pro' looking than that. Thanks, Blake
Topic by blakeinla | last reply
He mentions using a laser printer for copper etching, can I use my ink jet printer and get the same results?
I own an iPod Shuffle, 2nd generation, silver. It is very plain, and I've recently been reading up on saltwater etching. I want to remove the standard Apple logo from the back and etch my own text (it will either be "iMake" or "iBles", I can't decide). I've come upon two roadblocks, so far, those being: can I sand laser etchings (the Apple Logo) off, and can I etch through the player's anodization, or would I need to sand that off? I don't really care if it doesn't turn out perfect, or looks like a total mess. It's not like I paid for the thing. Thanks for any help!
Topic by Bran | last reply
We're offering a 20% discount on our regular prices to all UK Instructable Pro members who need laser cutting or etching of acrylics, leather or wood. For some examples of our recent work see. https://www.instructables.com/id/Jayefuus-Blog-Roundup-August/ https://www.instructables.com/id/Negative-Laser-Metal-Etching/ https://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/F1Y/55SO/GB3W26ZY/F1Y55SOGB3W26ZY.MEDIUM.jpg Our pricing is based on 50 GBP/hour machine time. Etching is considerably slower than cutting.... Contact me via PM for details and a quote. Steve
Topic by steveastrouk | last reply
I want to learn how to etch my own circuit boards but I'm not sure what to use for marking the traces. I've heard about using a sharpie maker, which sounds pretty easy, but does it really work? To me it seems like it would come off from the acid.
Question by Arya42 | last reply
I bought one of ladyada's USBtinyisp avr programmers a few days ago, its working great! i program alot in visual basic but i never tried anything quite like the C similar programming of the avr chips. because of that i reprogram my chip ALOT, so i decided to make a target board. i already have the "blank" board and a UV lamp to prepare it. i have sodium hydroxide to develop it. all i need is something to etch off the copper. so i was wondering: can i etch off the copper with 32% hydrochloric acid/muratic acid/HCL?
Question by solidacid | last reply
So I'm trying to make a music box. I bought a 15 note hand crank mechanism I want to install into an 8 inch nautilus shell. I also want to etch the outside of the shell like in the photo. I've never worked with shells like this before and I obviously don't want to shatter it. What tools would I need to do this? What should I be careful of? Anyone with experience working with shells advice would be appreciated. :)
Question by Swansong | last reply
Hey y'all, I have another question related to etching my iPod. I took it apart, and now have the aluminum housing with a piece of rubber (latex?) connected to it (the buttons). Do y'all think that the saltwater or current would have any negative effects on it? Thanks!
Topic by Bran | last reply
I'm working on a project to remove the broken plastic around my laptops screen section and replace it with two peices of plexiglass (Both front and back of the screen). with this i have a broken USB port that i can run power lines to two RED Leds to allow to light up an Etch on the plexiglass. but i really want to mask a small square in the middle then paint he plexiglass black then etch in my logo. but i'm wondering if this is the best way to do it? any suggestions??
Question by Gomex19 | last reply
I've read somewhere that you can use magazines for etching PCB's. now, that seems perfect (if it works) becouse of the reuse, its cheap, and it works :D but, 2 questions came to me: first, wouldnt the ink already in the magazines (text, pictures, etc) mess up the toner transfer? and how about the size of the paper? just cut it down to A4/A5 format using one of those big knive cutting tools? (don't know how theyr called in english :P )
Question by godofal | last reply
I am using an epilog 40 watt laser to etch photos of animals on 4 x 6 pieces of wood such as cherry, maple, and bamboo. In the final product the image lacks luster and the "wow" look I am wanting. If anyone had advice as to improving the processing and post processing, please let me know. If I need to apply a coating in post processing, please recommend one. I tried Olde English but wicking became an issue and the image became too dark. Any advice will be appreciated!
Topic by mjones0731 | last reply
I created this custom etched Halloween tombstone using builder's foam, latex paint and spray paint. The method of creation is to use a water based paint to create a resist that will protect the foam from dissolving when painted with the spray paint. This technique works really well to create the weathered stone look that older limestone monuments take on after a couple hundred years. For this project I was trying to create a broken then repaired tombstone that was partially covered in moss. Project Process - First sketch the design layout using a marker. Then paint the areas that you want to remain un-etched. Next, spray the entire face tombstone with a heavy, even coat of spray paint. It will take a few minutes... but the face will be etched as much as 1/2" deep depending on how heavy a coat of spray paint. After the etching paint has dried, paint the entire tombstone with latex primer and then add any desired painted effects. For this project, I used a grey granite spray paint and then added sand that was painted a moss green color (adhering it with spray adhesive). Total active work time was approximately 2 1/2 hours. A full Instructable of this project to follow soon...
Topic by jamestown | last reply
I've been searching and reading on how to etch aluminum. I've tried the photo paper toner transfer numerous times, but the toner does not stick to my aluminum plate. I've gone over with my iron so many times while putting extreme amounts of pressure on it, but no matter what I cannot get the toner to stay on my aluminum plate. Can someone please help me, or let me know a better way of doing this!! Thank you!
Question by Tanman23 | last reply
Ive read alot about etching ur own PCB's and might start on it sooner or later, but i wanted to know, can u just trow away used solution down the drain. i wondered about this since it eats away copper, and some pipelines are made out of copper... and isnt it to chemical to trow away (like batteries and other electronics) normally...
Question by godofal | last reply
Hi everybody, I just tried the Galvanic Etching process described on Jake Von Slatt's website. I wanted to show off my results and offer my observations.RESULTS:1) The etch came out perfectly.. even details that looked WAY to fine to pick up came out clearly.2) The Inkjet Paper (Staples Photo Plus Gloss) took a bit of soaking to get off, but when I got a corner, It came off as one single layer.3) I had to re-iron the corners, so check those before soaking.OBSERVATIONS:1) a PC power supply worked fine for the etch.2) my Root Killer lists Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate... no noticeable issue with this versus plain copper sulfate3) Copper Sulfate Pentahydrate eats alumin(i)um... Using tin foil as the anode was a bad idea.. I went through three anodes over the course of the etch... next time I'll use copper.4) Electrical tape makes a great mask to cover the back and edges of your etch.5) Mr Clean Magic Eraser's make short work of the toner without marring the brass.and now.... the Picture. (this is before paint, polish & varnish, I haven't gotten to those parts yet)
Topic by gschoppe | last reply
I have been looking around Google and found a few possible places to buy from but i wanted to ask the pros that make them all the time. can i buy a kit or do i have to get it all individually? Nvmd i found one :D but will still take supply suggestions
Question by demonxkid | last reply
I want to put together an electroetching rig (as detailed here), and I already have a battery charger, but I need to make the controller (diagram attached). My question is: Is there a better solution for the circuit than having an 12 volt halogen lamp wired in? That just seems really clunky to me, and my gut tells me there's a better solution that is not "go buy a laboratory power supply". I have nothing against old-school, but this looks positively prehistoric. Anybody?
Question by RavingMadStudios | last reply
Howdy is there a kind of resist that can be left on the pcb after etching (except the solder points), as an electrical insulator? can it be used with the photo-etching method, or only heat? thanks
Topic by johnyradio | last reply
I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects. It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it. I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot. I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds. I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer? And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?
Question by Nordovita | last reply
Hey guys, Im starting to build a 2 axis CNC for a laser. I was going to try the DVD burner laser and just cut through some paper for now but im wondering what the capabilities of the higher wattage lasers are. I know there are several 1-2+ watt lasers on ebay, what could they mange to cut through? Could I cleanly cut cardboard? What about vinyl for making stuff like decals and stickers? Im wondering if spending the extra money on a better laser would be beneficial or not so if anyone has some good comparisons or ideas let me know. Im on a tight budget for this build so a co2 laser is WAY out of the question. This is my first CNC build so its mainly to learn but the more capabilities of the CNC the better.
Topic by jdavis-9 | last reply
Our company is moulds making company we are trying to make chemical etching
Question by design-centre | last reply
How deep can one etch brass (using the toner transfar method, like when making PCB's) before the acid will dissolve the brass under the toner? Like at the point it will dissolve the brass by going around the toner and coming up from underneith?
Question by guyfrom7up | last reply
I would prefer to avoid acid if at all possible.
Question by Shadow94 | last reply
But without using a laser etching machine? I've seen chemical etching into brass using chemicals that produces a detailed effect, but I want that on a see-through surface. I'm not good at free-hand painting, so using Armour Etch without a stencil/mask is essentially out of the question. Also, would Armour Etch work on plexiglass, even though it is a different material than regular glass (SiO2)? Thanks alot!
Question by SJBarag | last reply
Hey everyone! I'm in the process of etching my first PCB. I have a few questions. I'm using the toner transfer method, with hydrochloric acid and a little hydrogen peroxide as an etchant. Anyway, I transferred the toner to the board, but I believe the glossy paper I used may have been a little too thick. The toner transferred correctly, but i can manage to get all of the paper off. I've tried a tooth brush and a soft towel. My question is, if I just go forth and etch the board will the paper dissolve with the copper on the board and give me a clean result anyway? Will the copper covered by the paper not be removed? are there any cons to this? (such as not being able to reuse my etchant) Thank you all, your help is appreciated Ken
Topic by KennyW2 | last reply
I have wanted to etch my own PCBs but didn't have the money. Now I have got a little bit of money and wonderd where the cheapest place was to get etching materails in New Zealand (preferabially in christchurch). Can anyone help?
Question by David97 | last reply
Here's an idea - would it be possible to use a 3D printer to lay out the etch resist on a PCB? It would likely only need to print a single layer. Of course you'd need to use a material that would resist the ferric chloride but could also be removed without leaving a residue. Thoughts???
Topic by jeff-o | last reply
The guys over at Redtorope.com have been addressing a way to reduce the cost of laser etched/cut projects when having a job done or reduce the wear and tear on one you or your company owns. It's not really a hack or a hardware fix, just an exercise in thinking within the operating parameters of the machine. Really well done and explained in such a way that others will be able to apply to their own projects. Well done fellas! http://www.redtorope.com/2010/11/massively-reduce-laser-etching-time/
Topic by Culturespy | last reply
We've been at the Web 2.0 conference using our Epilog to laser etch all sorts of things for free. The biggest job that we did was a complete tattoo on a brand new MacBook Pro that a gadget blogger from Chile bought the previous day just for this! It was the biggest job of the show and took 26 minutes to do. Other etches usually take a lot less time as most people are etching phones (lots of iPhones).Check out some of our awesome pictures. Bring in your gear tomorrow, and we'll give it a tattoo too!More Links: CNET loved us Wired was inspired Fayer Wayer article with more pics Fabulous fractals QR codes more QR codes ... and a bit more video
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
I am currently trying to find a solution to a year and a half long problem I've been working at, and was hoping the community could help me out. I ma trying to create miniature armatures that will always have the right proportions by etching the 'skeleton' out of thin brass (I believe it's somewhere around .02 inches thick). I've tried toner transfer and ferric chloride etching, but I am not getting steady results with the toner transfer. Since this isn't a circuit board, are there any other techniques I can use to cut through the metal quickly? If it's something along the lines of a CnC machine, as long as I can make it to cut down on the costs, I'm open to the idea. Just to give you an idea of what I'm trying now, at the moment I'm making stencils that I will spray acrylic or spray paint through onto the metal to allow for the same design every time. Acrylic and spray paint are also resistant to ferric chloride. Thanks
Question by ajpaulette | last reply