Fake Account Rating attack?!

So just came home from work and checked if I had any new comments...then I saw very low ratings on two of my Instructables...https://www.instructables.com/id/Big-Powerful-Knex-Crossbow/Ratio was about 3.6 when I last checked, now it is 1.62https://www.instructables.com/id/Reaper-Crossbow/Ratio was 3.7 this afternoon, now it is 1.52This does not really make me happy =\Maybe some admin can look into this?

Topic by Wicky   |  last reply


Multiple accounts

What is the deal with somebody having multiple accounts? In itself this is okay, but what about using one of these accounts to ask unintelligible questions, and then using another persona or two to answer the question/start a discussion, and awarding oneself with "best answer" for an equally unintelligible reply? A waste of everyone's time, or just mine? Can anything be done? Should I just ignore him? Does this happen often and I haven't noticed? I've foolishly entered into a "discussion" with this person.

Topic by caarntedd   |  last reply


Idea for how to stop fake members from voting

Maybe voting should be accessible only to PRO members... This might be unfair to non PROers, but it's way more fair for contests... I think that there are people that open many many many fake accounts, and vote for themselves in contests. HQ knows how to stop most of them, but, unfortunately,  I'm sure that there are ones that they don't catch.  I think that a member would think twice before wasting tons of memberships on all of his/her fake accounts for voting. I think it could eliminate most of them. I doubt that they haven't thought about this before, but I'd like to hear your opinion. What do you think? :)

Topic by Yonatan24   |  last reply


HELP!! NEED TO BAN THIS IMPERSONATOR?

This person is impersonating TheKingOfRandom  (real account) fake account can someone please remove this person?

Question by Xixfas   |  last reply


Can teachers be sued/fired for this?

Teachers at my school are somehow viewing students facebook profiles... weather its a fake account or heaven help me they can just view someones account by being a teacher.... Or it could be a snitch but I doubt it kids just don't do that in high school... I think its a total invsion of privacy. Can anything be done ?

Question by west49rules   |  last reply


Live Person Please?

I have submitted for password retreival several times over the last 2 weeks. I never receive the email. No, I do not have a spam box. I found my password but I suspect it get's changed when one submits a retreival form since I still can not log in. So, now, I had to create a new account just to be able to post this! All I want now is for some real person (erm... no fake ppl please) to email me and help me be able to log in with my real account. I'd like to remove this account. Oh no, I hope that is possible too. Anyone working for Instructables want to email me so I can give you my other account's user id and email? So from there you can email that account a new password or whatever the procedure is? Pleeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeease? *weeps*

Topic by Darcy7777   |  last reply


I'm so confused

How many erics are running around here? I count three: This guy: https://www.instructables.com/member/instructables-eric/This guy: https://www.instructables.com/member/+Ewilhelm+/and, of course, plain 'ol EricWho is real and who is not? Are these accounts all Eric? Or are the others fake?

Topic by Lithium Rain   |  last reply


How can I block someones IP address on AOL?

Someone has been sending me fake emails trying to get my password lately. Whenever I block one of his email accounts he just makes another. I got his IP address and he's really starting to annoy me now. And how i know its not real is becuase my WoW account is linked to a different email and i can look at his email in view source.

Question by smattman22   |  last reply


Beware of the new Email scam!

Recently I noticed that one my Emails accounts got some unwanted attention.Both in the standard folder as well as in the provided spam folder I started to collect Emails.And I don't always mean from senders I knew or webistes I am registered with.My usual approach is to just delete what comes from unkown senders or has a suspicious feeling to it.So no winner got it all crap, no offers, no invitations...A few however seemd to originate from some well known "things on the web" - and some of them I am registered with and get ads, offers and such.Sadly that resulted in some Emails being looked at and then discarded anyways.I kept deleting those unwanted mails without opening them for a few days.They they magically changed ;)Websites I used and especially those that require login details appeared as senders.Nothing with any vital info in the preview but also no real activity from my end on those websites.Then I made some impulsive buys on Ebay :(On top of the usual Emails I also got some "reminders" and "seller offers" added.Never happened before and certainly not activated in my Ebay account as feature.And unlike real Emails from Ebay there was my account name missing.Instead a conviently placed and highlighted shortcut button to "You account login" was provided.Ok, fake, forwared to Ebays spam team and quickly confirmed as spam.Moved and only hours later I got more Emails with similar tempting offers as buttons to confirm something that requires me to login.And now from websites or services I actually logged in to this day.The wise donkey said: You have something on your computer that shouldn't be there!Reboot from a CD to have the hard drives checked for malware - negative captain :(Ok then must be something within Windows, time to use a system restor point for a few weeks ago.Again nope...So I used a different browser and quite few websites and services that require my login details.No new Emails... with those websites.Kept using this brwoser for a few days and only stuff I already had cam again a few times but overall far less spam mails.Used the standard browser for a few hours with some login requirements and within a day I had corresponding Emails for a few of them.Found several bad tracking cookies in my browser.Bad in terms of redirecting all visited IP addresses to some addresses I can't even find.Deleted all cookies as well as the browser history.Reboot...A closer look at those suspicious Emails revealed that some include a thing similar to the old single pixel tracker.If you open them and not otherwise prevented it will result in some webservice knowing you actually opened the Email.Together of course with your Email address.The headers were good fakes too so the real sender is properly disguised.Those bottons and links mostly went to websites my browser protection already knows and prevents.Some however did not.In a sandboxed browser I was able to get onto some more or less convincing copies or the originals websites login page.The addressbar always started with originals name but then had a lot of cryptic stuff added to it.Sandbox blocked all what would otherwise make it throughcame through but the browser was rendered useless in the sandbox after I "logged in".Did another check and confirmed that all links buttons and such on that "infected" website also cause the same browser crash.Only difference was that only WITH something typed into the login field the browser tried to establish a new outgoing connection before getting dusted.Conclusions:The malicious Email provides the IP address used.Most if not all links within such an Email end on malicious websites.Some, especially at the beginning don't!!Instead the links go to websites that use cookies and other stuff normal protection mechanisms overlook.Somewhere between opening the link and closing it or the browser a change is made.Either you get a popup windows looking like some advertisement or when you start your browser the next time you see some website added that was not there before.The spammer now know you actually bothered enough to follow at least of the faked links provided in the Emails.The added bonus tracker provides ongoing supplies of websites you visit.A lot still use things in the address bar that identify them as a login page, even if it just starting with HTTPS.Popular websites and services get faked copies on servers in the dark web or at least outside normal DNS services.Now the spammer adds more and more Emails faking things you login to when using a browser for it.Until now nothing too bad or irriversible happend.But get fooled and actually click on a link in one of the new spam mails and it might be over.In the "best outcome" you would be locked out of your browser and have to delete it in safe mode or attempt a manual removal of the hijacker.A bit worse is if your protection started to fail and instead of the hijacke you end up with something manipulating your system.Really bad would be if you end on faked login website, and safety fails until you are locked out from your own system.Don't know what Email you might get after that and what demands to fix your system...However it gets worse: Like the one before but when enter your credentials and hit the login button the website jumps to some random Youtube clip or Goole search page.In case you wonder: You just gave the spammer your personal login details for said webiste or service....Most "deadly" would be if you end on more than just one like that.Every single one give the spammer a new login that you might pay for or that includes even more senstive data.Having to format and re-install all sudden is a thing of far too late then.I do not know if there was an Email I clicked on first, an infected advertisement or even some leaked Email addresses including my own on the internet for sale.All I know for sure is that those tracking options in the malicious Emails correspond to tracking stuff in the browser.No virus, no real malware until you click on the wrong stuff.Anything to prevent this from happening?Whatever you do: Do not use anything that requires the internet! - Just kidding!! Relax...1: Never click on anything inside mails from sources you don't fully trust! If in doubt copy and paste the link into an editor and check if it identical to the real address! Usually you would find some random stuff after the dot of the address name where you would other wise see .COM or .COM.AU.2. In case you ended on some spam or fake looking website anyways you should delete the cookies and browser history. The history might not be required though.3. Best would of course be to only allow known and trusted cookies or to not use any that survive a restart of the browser.4. Very important! If you start to get those Email very shortly after using it to create an account for something on the web then please provide the website you registered at with that Email address !!!5. If you get faked Emails for things you are actually registered with then please consider to imform the admins or support of this website about it. You might not have clicked on it but some user there might if nobody places a warning ;)What if all went to a total failure?I assume why you made that backup of all vital data and kept it updated?Also how install your operating system, in my case Windows, again.A hijack is easy, a fully infected or even encrypted system not.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Voting for your favorite entries in contests

Instructables members can vote for an entry during the contests plus 3 days after the contests close, which helps the Instructables staff in selecting few of the finalists. This has lead to many of the contest entries carrying out "Vote for me" campaign even before the entry is accepted in a particular contest. Entrants also send personal messages to other members asking for votes for their entry and also seek votes in reply to comments. Almost all of the contests carry huge prizes for the winners, which no other DIY website other than Instructables is offering. So, everybody wants to win contests and spend so much of their time and money to produce outstanding DIY projects. However, due to the voting system to decide part of the finalists, somebody may exercise some unfair means to get selected as a finalist. What if a member has garnered considerable amount of vote bank and every time gets a fair amount of votes for their entries in the contests? What if a member has created few fake accounts and vote for themselves through that fake accounts? Is there a way to keep a check on this kind of unfair means?

Topic by antoniraj   |  last reply


flashing LED - first project

I'm eager to start my first project, but I don't know how to do it. Its basically an LED blinking twice, once at every 20 min. I can tackle it in Arduino since its code, but I need something really small, the smallest possible! (the way that would be powered also needs to take this into account. a 9v battery would be too much. but If it could have a way to be powered by USB that would be great). The closest I can find, is something similar: A fake car alarm, that flashes a red led. But I need to have the 20min spacing!  Can I have some shared knowledge ? :) Thank you!

Topic by jlourenço1   |  last reply


Facebook - some things to consider before making full use of it....

As "A last Hurray" so to say I will do it one last time....What am I doing exactly you wonder and why do I bother writing it here?I will write a little story that is spiked with some information that I deem to be worthy to share.And I do bother to show my friends, followers and those who care what might have been a weekly or even daily thing otherwise :)At work recent changes and ongoing problems with our IT systems required that those who need contact with those in charge or above to sign up with Facebook.I tried what I could but Emails appearently don't always show if someone actually ready them and it was down to keeping my job or refusing Facebook.And yes, I tried to raise my concerns about privacy and control of it through the company...Anyway, let us start, shall we?Signing up for Facebook is as easy as asking Google for the name and to follow the obvious links.But those who know me can confirm that I take privacy seriously and that I like to question why someone thinks they need certain information.Which brings me to the point....Anyone these days is on Facebook with one or more accounts - this includes your boss, manager or anyone interested in your name, resume or other background info.Facebook provides just that, the chat and messages are as obsolete as anything else in terms of actually giving you privacy of any kind.When I signed up and was dumb enough to use a well known Email provider for my account details, I was shocked by the following offer.I was asked for my Email password to make signing in and finding friends easier!A quick but endlessly long search through the terms and conditions confirmed that indeed everyone in my contact list would be mis-used for data collecting and referencing - including the content of my Emails.Of course I had to reject this great function several times until Facebook got the massage that I like to keep control over my Email account.Thinking this was already enough for the day I rejected images and other private info, like where I was born, where I worked and such before signing off.Next day I suddenly had a list of friends as long as the shopping list of a childcare centre for thanks giving.At first I though I don't know any of them until I started to do what Facebook wants and looked the people up.Most where contacts I had on long dead messengers like the Yahoo! messenger.You can understand my confusion until I realised I had used the same Emal account for those messengers.Facebook simply reference their records of dead systems with my Email address and was happy to provide friends I really tried to avoid....The hardest hit however was when I realised that even contact backups I did from my mobile, using Google services, appeared.Thankfully most as possible friends but some directly added to my friends list, due to other links they found in their databases.Needless to say that even several of my skype contacts showed up...The last thing that confirmed why I avoided Facebook was the simple fact that all privacy options in the profile are set by default to public!Of course, if you don't mind stripping down your privacy to the entire world while Facebook is using the data for not always legal purposes you shall be fine.But if you only care a little then check the following, hopefully before stripping down:1. Never, ever type your Email password into anything coming from Facebook - no matter what reasons they claim!2. Before you complete your profile with address, phone number or similar, type in nonsense so you can get access to your account settings.After all Facebook does not bother to offer you privacy before you finnish your details and keeps nagging about adding more so they get the vital data they need first....3. Check all account settings in regards who has access!Unless you really want to strip down noone but your friends should have any access to anything.And even for that you should make sure to enable the function to review them before you allow them to show up on your page, history or elsewhere.Things to always keep in mind:1. Your account is not yours as Facebook has all rights to it, you can not even request to have your informations deleted from their databases or remove your account for good.2. Anything your friends see on your page or profile they can share, like or comment on.This means that even if don't like it, it can spread through the community within seconds and as a worst case ruin your life.3. Anything Facebook does or offers, like games, recommendations, things you should know about, have only one goal: To gather more information about you.Like for example using your Google cookies to find out what search for on the web or watch on Youtube....4. Things you like attract more things you might like, again mostly to gather more info about you, your personality, preferences and your friends.Ok, I know!You are using FB for years, have tons of friends there and keep updated about every minute of their life they share...So there is little to no chance to see what I am talking about LOLBut I would not post all this openly without a backup plan ;)If you really dare to challenge me on this then you might have to waste several hours of your precious time, but I think it is worth your time!This is how the game is played:1. Find someone older who does have a vital Email life of sorts but so far no use for Facebook.2. Ask kindly for his support on a test with Facebook that might require him to forawrd correspnding Emails to your account.3. Clearly state that neither his email or FB account will be used to post anything, add friends manually or give out any info the person does not feel confortable to share.4. Point out the possible benefits of having FB with the option to use the persons real name so he can continue using FB after the test if considered a good thing to have.5. If you manage the above successfully then only use the provided name, email and residential address to create a new account.6. Observe and wonder about the things to come.....You will notice that usually quite soon possible friends or persons that could be connected show up.Also that FB will continue to ask about the history, like schools, work, places.If you do an online search on the name often takes less than a week to get a hit refering to FB.The more info about the person you offer FB (with consent!!) the more people will show up to be considered.At this stage and I guess in less than two weeks time after creating the account comes the question about how to continue.Show the person what and who is already present in the created account and if there is an interest to keep the acount for personal use.If so, kindly ask the person to add a friend or more, fill out more details, provide a picture and so on.Hand over full control to the account either by asking the person to change the password and not let you see or know it.Again, ask kindly to get some future updates, screenshot or similar to see how the account evolve, or add yourself as a friend and keep track that way.I do not suggest in any way to create an account without consent!This includes all activities that might seem harmless:Don't use the identity of someone you "found somewhere"!Don't create a fake account, especially not in the name of someone popular or someone that might be harmed in any way by your creation - the person might have good reasons not to appear on FB!If you don't have Facebook already feel free to use to do the test with your own details!Never, ever use pictures that are not your own or that you don't have the explicit permission to use even if you took them!

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


Giving away a 1 year Pro Instructables membership!

I'm giving away a one year Pro membership.  Why?  I won one in the Homemade Holidays contest.  I plan on continuing to support Instructables with payments every two years.  So I want to share the love.  Here's how to get a chance at winning.  Your account must have been created on or prior to January 18, 2010.  I don't want people creating fake accounts. You must not already have a Pro membership. You must have at least one Instructable published by midnight Pacific time on January 24, 2010.  It does not need to be new - it could be years old.  (It must meet the guidelines here - in other words, have original photos, decent writing, and reasonable organization.  If you want to know if yours will qualify, post a link to it in the comments below and I'll give you feedback.) Subscribe to me!  (Just click on the orange box over there ---> ) On Sunday, January 24th at 11PM Alaska time I will tally all my subscribers, eliminate pro members, and then do a random drawing.  I'll make sure that the other criteria (no duplicate entries, "worthy" Instructable, etc.) are met and will announce the winner here. Photo by my brother Kevin Dean. Sorry!  This "contest" is now CLOSED. The winner is... II.13 I used the random integer generator at Random.org to select a number based on my subscribers.  Thank you to my new subscribers. (I guess if you want to you can unsubscribe from me... but if I win another I'll probably do this again... and no matter what I do my subscribers will have a shot at it.)  For anyone interested, I added 63 new subscribers.  I benefited by interacting with some new people, checking out some different projects - some really undervalued ones too! And of course, thanks for the Instructables staff for letting me do this!

Topic by zieak   |  last reply


Could I have gotten a virus from a Facebook link?

Hey! I was on a forum earlier today, when someone linked to a facebook account, so I thought, why not? I went to it in Mozilla with Noscript and adblock, but was prompt to enter username/password since I usually dont use firefox for that + noscript blocks that anyways right? So I pasted it in Google Chrome (where my password is stored in the browser..) from there I got directly in, but just came to the front page og Facebook... Why did this happen? Could it be that I have been sent to a fake site to give me malware :s ? here is the link: https://www.facebook.com/home.php#jared.schmidt1?ref=profile Ps. I checked just now and if you look at here : http://i.imgur.com/JZ6b6.png and here: http://i.imgur.com/2G8xa.png (this is how it looks while loading) , you see that the links is very different.. Is the link in the second picture a normal one? And also note what I have circled around in red down to the left... Any ideas? I scanned my pc with MBAM, SUPERantispyware, AVAST and Spyboot S & D, but if there is a virus at all, could it be encrypted, will they be able to detect it? sorry for nagging, just getting a little paranoid :p p.p.s If I click on that link and then try to press a notification that will bring me back to the homepage too.. (but not other ones, only the first one I click after clicking the link, per session..) Thank you for answers :)

Topic by kjelll   |  last reply


Star (stasterisk) arrested at Logan airport for bomb scare

A 19 year old female M.I.T. student was arrested at gunpoint after entering Boston's Logan International Airport with what authorities claim was "a fake bomb" strapped to her chest, according to wire reports. The device is said to have been some kind of computer circuit board with Play-Doh and wires attached, strapped over her black hoodie. Link to AP report on her arrest.The young woman is identified as Star Simpson, shown in the image above left, and she is a sophomore from Hawaii. She has a user account on Instructables. Boingboing story Star's Instructables pageUPDATE: CNN videoUPDATE 2: Pic addedUPDATE 3: Canida's response added to BoingBoing, and a call for geek-protection sticker designs!UPDATE 4: Simpson pleaded not guilty to a charge of possessing a hoax device at her arraignment in East Boston District Court Friday afternoon. She was released on $750 bail and ordered to stay away from Logan Airport.Simpson could face up to five years in prison and a $5,000 fine. WBZTV storyUPDATE 5: We had a quick chat with Star! She's doing fine, and after dodging packs of media she's finally getting back to work on her problem sets. There's still school, you know. Of course, they've impounded her sweatshirt, so she's got to do something else for the career fair.

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


TOS (Terms of Service)

Most people don't read licence agreements, small print etc. and most users haven't read the site TOS.I don't really expect many people to do so even after I've posted this but we're all bound by them (no exceptions)Be aware of this first: 1 By using this site, you agree to the TOS, there's no getting out of this it is defined in the TOS.Instructables can change the TOS, if you still use the site then you agree to the changes (as above).5 In registering you agree to provide true and accurate information, i.e. not fake@fakemail.com, not my age is 98 (when it's really 9.8) - any "porkies" and they can delete you. You may not use this site unless you are at least 13 years old. In accordance with the Federal Children's Online Privacy Protection Act of 1998 (COPPA)6 Note this:Instructables does not use spy-ware, ad-ware, pop-up ads, spam or other annoying or intrusive advertising. We do not sell, rent, or exchange your personal information to any third party for marketing purposes.7 a You're responsible for what you post, if it's illegal the site will cooperate with The Man7 b If you post anything offensive or inappropriate, you may be deleted.7 g Browser beware: you might be exposed to to Content that is offensive, indecent, objectionable or unsafe - you take your own risks with this!The whole of 8 - Member Conduct is worth a read12 If you're dealing with advertisers, that's between you and them.15 e A SMALL PERCENTAGE OF USERS MAY EXPERIENCE EPILEPTIC SEIZURES WHEN EXPOSED TO CERTAIN LIGHT PATTERNS OR BACKGROUNDS ON A COMPUTER SCREEN OR WHILE USING THE SERVICE...24 All the Instructables logos images etc are protected trademarks. Maybe Robot is exempt from this, or perhaps the site's reasonably lenient there?25 & 26 There's a proper procedure for claims of copyright infringement and other disputes27 The TOS is governed by the laws of the State of California When you're dead you're account will be deleted if your executors provide a copy of your death certificate.28Please report any violations of the Terms to the Instructables Support Manager at tos@instructables.com.

Topic by lemonie   |  last reply


best K'Nex builder/gun contest!

Ok, this the best knex builder/gun contests.first contest is the best knex builder contest.Tech-king-----------------------4Kiteman-------------------------4Mepain--------------------------3DSman195276----------------3Perfect Duck-------------------3Oodalumps--------------------2Ironman69---------------------2here i will post the builders people voted for here, as if i premake a list then not every one gets a fair change.in this contest everyone gets two votes. you can only use one of the votes to vote for your self. you HAVE to vote two times or not at all.the second contest is the gun contest.this will be split into 2 categories:category 1: firing pin guns.DM-27--------------------7moretti------------------3OSNJCKMA2----------1K'nex Plasma Rifle--1red impact-------------1project Q---------------1category 2: crossbowsSR-V1----------------------------------4REAPER-------------------------------3Mepains huge knex crossbow--2my crossbow-------------------------1THE RULES ARE:1. YOU HAVE TO VOTE TWO TIMES OR NOT AT ALL IN EACH RANK2. ONLY TWO VOTES ARE ALLOWED3. YOU CAN ONLY VOTE FOR YOUR SELF ONCE IN EACH RANKING4. NO CHEATING IS TOLERATEDif you are unsure of what rank your gun should go into, ask me.the winner gets a 10 rating from me and the joy winning.BIG UPDATE:there is one more contest that is going to happen. it is the contest for the best gun that is posted now. all guns posted before 5/12/08 will not count in this contest. so get cracken on the next gun you are making! you have to make a readable/followable instructable because if you get into the top 5 then i need to be able to make the gun.the dead line for the instructable to be entered into the contest for best gun 6/5/08(subject to change)after that the voting will begin. the voting will end 6/15/08(subject to change)after that i will make the 5 top voted for and get stats for them(i will do this because i can put the exact rubberbands on each gun) and the judging will begin. the judges will be possibly be me, other people, and the winner of the best knex builder contest.i am thinking that judging maybe a better idea then just going by votes because then fake accounts maybe made to rig the voting.so far i think that the judges will be just about anyone that has built a decent gun and has consistently put in good feed back for other users. the ones i know for sure will be judges are :Mepain, Perfect Duck, Oodalumps, me(maybe, thats your decision not mine), the_bruitto_master, and the winner of the best builder contest.when i tie occur during the voting stage of the best gun/builder contest the most recently voted for will appear first, but it is still a tie.so:

Topic by dsman195276   |  last reply


The little guide to buying on Ebay

Like or not Ebay is now the number one online market place.Since they do their best to keep it that way a few tips might be of use to someone.Unlike some other guides this one is not about how to find the best bargain.It is about showing some things you should be aware of, especially if you are new Ebay.1. New, unused, refurbished....These three can literally mean anything if you find them in a listing title.Unless you read the full description you simply don't know.Assuming the listing goes along with the title.New should mean exacty that: Same condition as you would find in any retail store.Unused can be the same but could also mean it was opened, like to check it or take the pictures.Refurbished is something to take with caution.Unless it clearly states Manufacturer refurbished you just don't know if the refurbishing is done to specs.For a phone it could mean a badly glued screen, a no name battery, non matching serial numbers...Unless an item is factory sealed you should expect detailed pictures.In a lot of categories you will only find generic pictures though - buyer beware!2. Warranties....Ebay does have a buyer protection but Ebay does not deal with Manufacturer warranties in any way!In some countries a seller is legally required to provide a warranty and return statement.Sadly that is not the case in all countries Ebay serves.When it comes to brand new devices you might experience problems with your warranty.As more and more companies go against online selling platforms they do not support they simply exclude them from a warranty.Let me give you an example for this one:You see your favourite smartphone at your local retailer for the bargain of just under $1600, while on Ebay you find the exact same model for $1200.Easy choice? Depends...If the manufacturer does not support this then only the seller can provide you with some sort or warranty.The good one claim to do so but don't expcet this from someone only selling a handful of items per year.In the worst case it could mean your new gadget develops a fault over time that would be fully covered by a manufacturer warranty but you would totally miss out.The money is gone and you have to fix it at your own cost.If the item in question is also of value then please check the warraty and return conditions the manufacturer allows before buying.4. Pricing....Especially when it comes to things that somehow could be bundled or used with something else you can get screwed.The culprit i question is the multi-item-listing.You might look for a battery pack to keep your phone charged when on long hiking trips.But the first 50 or so listings are all in the lowest imaginable price range.The listing title shows what you are looking for, the image does too....Then you dare to check and it is a listing where you can select multipl items.The price shown in the search result is only for the lowest crap listed there, like a "waterproof usb plug"....The actual thing you need is usually overpriced.You are forced to either ignore suspiciously low priced listings or check them all to compare prices.5. Postage costs....A lot of things these days come with free shipping, all good.If they don't then again: Buyer beware!Sometimes there are exclusions, like certain post code areas.Or the free shipping is not for international customers.If it is clear you have to pay shipping and you buy only a single item then again the case is quite obvious.Combined shipping however does not always mean single costs!Check the psotage options for multi items carefully!Often additionalitems are free if they are small.But if a seller already charges you a high postage fee than chance are you pay the exact same price again for the second - even if the arrive in a single $2 prepaid envelope.6. Faked locations....It seems to be common with Chinese sellers to avoid import taxes by faking a local item a selling address.In some cases (often after Ebay got too many buyer complaints) they list the real shipping time of 2-3 weeks.More often however they don't.Once you have the problem the best option is to open a "item not received" claim 3 days after it was due.On the due date contact the seller and ask when to expect it.There is a way to spot these fakes and tax frauds:If a local seller, with a locally listed item gives you a Chinese Paypal account with an address in China than you got a fraudster.Problem is that once you committed to buying and can see the sellers account details it is already too late.To cancel such a transaction you need to do it the official way and if the seller won't agree then don't expect Ebay to accept that you don't want to suppport tax evasion and fraud.Either way, I report each and every single one seller showing a local item with a local selling addrees but using a Chinese Paypal account.7. Fraudulent listings and sellers....Let me give you a slightly overstated example on what I mean:Seller has only sold a very few items, usually of low value.Suddenly you spot y nice and this years model laptop at a bargain price.You check the listing closer and find just 2 or 3 pics.Further down you read something along the lines "Unwanted gift, comes with car charger only."If it is this years model then it is still under warranty and no one would lose all the additional hardware like the wall charger. ;)Again it is up to the buyer to decide....Ebay does not check where an item comes from or if the seller is the legitimate owner of it.8. Exclusions to make...Be it price, auction only, distance and so on.You can make certain limitation and selections to narrow your search results.Some make sense and work, like just showing items to auction.Distance no longer really works as sellers are no longer required to state a town or post(zip) code anymore.Price is relative too.If you know the ting you need definately costs between $100 and $130 then the search still won't filer anything out that is a multi item listing and within the price range.And in some cases it just totally fails.A very vital exclusion was removed around 2014: by country.Now all that is left is to limit to all within your home country.You can't select for example Japan only if you are located in Europe and would like to avoid the rediculous postage costs from the US.And you could not exclude China either...All or local is what you can play with.For the rest that is available: use it whenever it make sense and is possible.9. You buy it - your problem!No I don't mean faulty items or wrong ones.I mean simple things that can happen to anyone distracted, unconcentrated or too full of exitement.You buy something and think you are the happiest guy in the world until you double check the listing to confirm your luck.Missed the over $300 in postage ocsts?Did not see further down that it states "replica" or "scale model"?Or hints that the massive sized Opal in fact is just a resin with a thin and cheap layer of Opal flakes on a black background?As said, your problem alone.I know a lot of people who started having fun on Ebay until they got their gib bargain surprice - one way or the other.Don't become one of them and read and check listing you might want to buy with great care!10. Feedback...You might have noticed that it is next to impossible to find a seller with a feedback rating below 90%.The reason is quite simple: The lower your ratings as a seller the further down the search results you appear.And of course you don't make any business anymore once so low...But feedback you leave is as important as feedback you get!So if you spot a deal where the seller has a rating below the magic 99.5% positive rating you should check his feedback.Quite often it is clear that some angry customer left it.Most obvious if the seller left a reply stating otherwise.But in some case you more than one buyer left a negative feedback for the same reason as other buyers - this is where you should be careful.The reason to actually check the feedback is quite simple: It is heavily manipulated by Ebay.A seller won't get and negative feedback if he agreed to replace the item in question or if he offers a refund.Same for simply stating that a negative feedback was not justified.The later can be anything from the words used to just wanting a clean sleeve.And if a seller is highly active than business rules and the feedback is corrected by Ebay.You might have noticed that for some sellers now now new negative feedback show up that would be of any real concern for a potential buyer...11. Retractions :(Be it a seller not wanting to sell something that auctioned off below his expectations or a buyer who simply failed to pay attention to the price and all details : A retraction is possible.If you try a lot of auctions you might have had the "second chance offer".After you lost an auction you might get notified that the winning bid was retracted and that you are next in line.In almost all cases your last bid will be accepted but some sellers offer you the item for what the rectracted bid was - so pay attention to details!Now you might think that if happens so often you could make good use of it.Like for example participating in several autions to try to win the device one way or the other.Set some sutomatic bids and go to bed.If lucky you got one, if too lucky you won all auctions.Retracting your bid on those you now no longer need is possible but I strongly advise against it!Firstly you can negative feedback from the seller for it and secondly Ebay will keep you under watch if it happens too often.An honest mistake and all is fine but ask for a retraction a few times a month and you will have a hard time on Ebay.In the worst case Ebay can even suspend your account or exclude you from auctions.So, is it still worth signing up and trying to find a bargain?IMHO it all depends on WHAT you are looking for.Someone in a remote area of Brazil will certainly value it differently than someone living downtown L.A. with access to all sorts of shops, retailers and outlets onevery corner.Same for spare parts, electronic parts or stuff that is made in China anyways.But times have changed for sure.What started free for everyone became a paid platform for those who sell.Later those buying also had to pay extra as still all transactions come with fees on the side of Paypal.Not much to be fair but still...And from a platform with a few scammers and frudsters that always got and kept your money we came to something flooded by sellers that should not even be allowed to have a Paypal account.The buyer protection helps in some way but it can take weeks to get your money back and if it something expensive than this money makes interest for someone else while you don't have to buy what you wanted to buy.While, in a real shop you just go back and return your item to get your money back - plus you get a real warranty.Do your homework and be aware of what could go wrong.If it looks like it could go wrong somewhere than you might want to consider a deffierent option for this item.

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


The Instructables Rating System

As you have all noticed, Instructables has recently implemented a new rating system, based on stars (insert 2001 A Space Odyssey joke here). We've done a bit of experimenting -- and reserve the right to do more in future -- but it's stable for now so here's how it works. UPDATE 2010-09-24: The below calculation has been tweaked to bring Instructables' ratings closer to the level of ratings of comparable content on the Internet generally.  We found that we run about a star low, based on a rough look at a bunch of other sites and our (totally unbiased of course!) estimates of their content quality.  So, we have added a star to all ratings across the board.  It's like grade inflation... but we know our users put up really good stuff and we want that to be recognized. UPDATE: we've tweaked the system a bit more. The below describes the rating system as of 2008-11-15. The rating system uses a weighted average, where Instructables with only a few ratings, or ratings by users who have not rated many Instructables, have a total closer to the middle of the star range than the actual average of the ratings. For example, an Instructable with one five-star rating will have a total closer to 4 than to 5, because there are so few ratings on it. If the user who rated it hasn't rated other Instructables, the total will be lower than if the user who rated it has done a lot of rating in the past. The purpose of this difference is to minimize the effect of 'shill' ratings; we've seen some members attempt to bump their ratings by creating fake accounts just to rate up an Instructable or two! As more people rate each Instructable, the total becomes closer and closer to the true average of the ratings. And as each user rates more and more Instructables, we weight their rating higher and higher. We have done it this way because we want the rating to reflect the opinion of the whole community, and we believe that members who do a lot of rating have been around enough to have a good sense of what makes a good Instructable. Also, members who comment and rate have their rating counted higher, as the comment indicates a higher level of involvement with the Instructable than rating alone. This method makes it so a less-than-stellar Instructable can't be pushed to the very top of the ratings because the author got their friends to sign up and rate it at 5 stars; similarly a really good Instructable can't be dragged too far down by a malicious user. For the mathy amongst you, this is the formula (we changed the way one component is calculated): (siteAvgNumRates * siteAvgRating) + (numRates(ible) * avgRating(ible)) R(ible) = ---------------------------------------------------------------------- siteAvgNumRates + numRates(ible) The avgRating(ible) is no longer a straight average, but a weighted one. It's calculated like this: (W1*R1 + W2*R2 + ... + Wx*Rx) + 2(V1*C1 +V2* C2 + ... + Vy*Cy) -------------------------------------------------------------- (W1 + W2 + ... + Wx) + 2(V1 + V2 + ... + Vy) Pretty complicated algebra, huh? W and V are both weight values, between 0 and 1. R is the rating of someone who has not commented, and C is the rating of someone who has commented. siteAvgNumRates and siteAvgRating are estimates, held constant in the pursuit of not having ALL ratings change every time one person rates one Instructable. As you can see, when the number of ratings for a particular Instructable is low, the weight of the site averages count for much more of the rating value. When the rating count is high, the site averages are only a small part of the total rating value. We believe this algorithm has a good balance between letting the cream rise to the top, and preventing 'rating spam' to coin a term. Please comment!

Topic by rachel   |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

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