Because Ultraviolet Rays have higher wavelengths than the visual light spectrum. Does that mean that Einstein's wrong, or did I miss something and am I stupid?
Question by Wasagi | last reply
Because Ultraviolet Rays have higher wavelengths than the visual light spectrum. Does that mean that Einstein's wrong, or did I miss something and am I stupid?
Question by Wasagi | last reply
Hello, I am working on a project and would like to know if you can assist me with a specific modification. I have a regular, medium size LED strobe light in which I need to increase the amount of times it flashes, so much that the human eye cannot detect the flashing. Please advise if you can help. Thank you for your time and have a prosperous day,
Question by cubantino | last reply
I was just watching the Blackhawks win the Stanley Cup (woo), and my dad turned on picture in picture so we could see what another channel was broadcasting, but as a default it started on the same channel. The weird thing was the picture in picture was a full 1-2 seconds ahead (the audio was synched correctly with the main picture). It's an HDTV connected to a cable box. This is pretty much the least important question ever, but I found it weird and wondered if anyone had any ideas.
Question by Wolf Seril | last reply
I'm new to playing around with LED's, so please forgive the ignorance. Right now I am trying to make a homemade lamp of sorts. I am using white LEDs with the following specs per the seller. FW current - 25 mA FW supply - 3.3V (typical), 3.6V (max) Tested one LED with two AAA batteries and no resistor. I was told by radio shack guy that since supply voltage was less than FW supply I would be fine, and the LED would pull the amperage it needed. Lit up and looked fine to me. I then found a 9V DC wall wart, and decided I wanted to run possibly up to 12 LEDs using 4 parallel strings of 3 LEDs in series (9.9 volt drop across each series). I bought a multimeter and checked the DV voltage from the power supply, and it ran consistently between 9.1 - 9.2 volts. The thought with the 9V wall wart was that the voltage supply would be lower than the FW supply, thus I would not need resistors, simplifying and reducing # of connections needing soldering (new to that as well). My question is, will this 9V work for my system? I've tested 3 LED's in series, and also 2 parallel strings of 3 LEDs in series, and both lit fine. I've read posts where people say that the lights will not light up or will be dim if the FW supply is not provided. As mentioned, they seem fine to me, and as this lamp is planned for more of a mood lighting, I don't need it much brighter. Is the only downside a dimmer light? Will it last just as long? My main concern is putting the time and effort into constructing this thing, and then having the LED's fail for some reason I don't understand, and having to rewire it all. I've thought about buying a 12V supply and using a resistor, but would rather not unless there is a good reason to do so. Thanks in advance for any input!
Topic by brumachine82 | last reply
I don't run very much. I never was all that good at it. Lately, though, I have found the need to improve that ability, specifically my endurance at speed. I can slowly jog a mile, sure, but haulin'-ass-away-from-an-amgry-man-with-a-knife-speeds don't last much longer than thirty yards, if that. I'd like to improve my overall speed if possible, and especially increase the distance that I can cover flat-out before I keel over. I'm not going to be running a marathon anytime soon, but I'd like to be able to get farther than average, as fast as possible, on demand. Any tips for training or proper form? I live at roughly 5400 feet, but I'm just a short drive away from 14,000-foot peaks. I would also like to improve my off-the-line times--in other words, acceleration. If I were to need to run between ten and twenty-five yards, I can do that at my top speed as is, but that speed is not as fast as it could be. I'm generally not even up to full speed until eight or ten yards past the line. Suggestions?
Topic by Rishnai | last reply
Hello everyone, i have a question and i think people here on instructables are best suited to help me! So i wanted to connect 21 leds together to make a bigger light. I would connect them in parallel and in series (3 in series 7 rows :P) and i thought i would use a 12v 7Ah battery to power this thing. The problem is i also wanted to use an arduino so they would turn on automatically but it can not output 12v. So is it beter to use the arduino to phisiclly controll a switch to turn the leds on or is it possible to power the arduino and then output 5v to the leds. And if it is will they be dimmer? or will the system draw more current killing my battery faster? Thats my problem and i hope someone here can help me. Thank you in advance.
Topic by thecreatorst | last reply
Hi guys! i'm sorry if i'm here to disturb.... i need to build a lamp.. with shape of a volcan.... now y have this problem.... how can I create the movement of lava running down the slope, with the lights? I thought the catenary Christmas, with the movement to fall, but the problem is to recreate the color change down ... anyone have any ideas on this? than you to all for helping.. :)
Topic by dancan | last reply
I have an old coputer and it's just lying around. It runs on windows 2000 and is a dell with a dual core prossor. I would like to upgrade enogh to use it as a server for Minecraft but if its going to just be more of a chore to run than actual fun I just rather not even try. BUT if there is a cheap way to upgrade to handle the server software (http://www.minecraft.net/servers.jsp) and run it kind of fast I could use some help or leed me to an instructible or a website please hep Thanks One more thing if you have already answered then you might have seen I put 95 sorry I was thinking of something else I realy have windows 2000 thanks
Question by zootsuitman | last reply
I have some battery operated chase lights (Christmas lights) that I want to wrap around a musical instrument.. When I play a note, I want the frequency of the note to drive the chase light speed. So higher notes will make them chase faster than lower notes.. How can I do this?
Topic by 3DPiper | last reply
From the theory of relativity, we learn that time is relative to the observer. And that time starts going slower and slower as the observer (reference point) moves faster and faster. And if the reference point reaches the speed of light (c), time stops, and if it theoretically surpasses it, time would go backwards. Now, light travels at the speed of light, so if we consider a photon as the reference point, isn't time still for it? And if time is stopped, how does the photon ever get anywhere?
Question by ricardjorg | last reply
Hi, I have bought a cheap power bank, it worked good! But now there's something strange, I know it's cheap so it doesn't work long but if I charge my powerbank it shows a light and than the light stops showing and the powerbank doesn't do anything anymore. I saw somewhere that you can take out the battery inside and plug it in to a battery charger? Does that help?
Question by SimonU2 | last reply
My husband was working on the fence, as it was getting dark i went to get the flashlight which if you have it on too long it will dimmer too soon, so i have this idea of using our only outdoor solar light which last 8 to 10hours and he could see very good with it. I think it is a great idea for when the electricity goes out you can use the solar light in your home.
Topic by saint-eustache | last reply
Question by rdl1268 | last reply
Question by coolpizzadude | last reply
*Typing...* It took me about a week to make my Instructable on my magnetic pegboard, and about a month to make my I'ble on SpectrumLED. Now I don't even want to know how much time it took chr to make his 8X8X8 LED Cube Instructable... 2 Weeks ago, I published an Instructable on my Articulating Lamp, I don't think it took me more than 3-4 hours... Other than the fact that I now have way more experience, I've thought of several tips that decrease the amount of time I have to sit in front of the computer and type, by a HUGE amount. If making and I'ble is a lot of work, it'll feel like work, and I'll need to take a break... If it's fairly easy, I'll want to make more! I will leave some of the tips that I've come up with in the comments. If you have your own leave them in the comments below!
Topic by Yonatan24 | last reply
I am currently working of my BFA in sculpture and I have a couple of gallery shows coming up and it would seem that my ideas are bigger than my knowledge base (which is okay by me, but sometimes frustrating). My current work revolves around posthumanism and I am working to blur the lines between human and machine, working with circuitry, xrays, and prosthetics. I have one set of work that I am currently a bit stumped with. I have three copper PCB boards that I am going to etch into circuits, but the lines of the circuits will resemble human faces. Each board has a character: the introvert, the extrovert, and the antagonist. The introvert will be silent, but I want the lights that glow behind it to flicker faster, or get brighter when the viewer nears. Essentially, he is quiet, but has a LED driven anxiety attack when people approach. I did this with a dark sensitive photosensor thinking that the viewers shadows would activate the light. While it worked in my living room, I realized that the gallery lighting would not lend itself to this method. So my next thought was a theremin that had light output instead of sound output. Possible? The next two will make sound and light. The extrovert needs to seek attention. I was hoping to figure out something that would talk back when something is making noise around it. So it would need to pick up the vibrations of someone talking about my work, or possibly even their footsteps, and then begin to "talk back" (lighting up and making noise). Intstead of sensing vibrations I was thinking that proximity might be easier so maybe an IR sensor. (?) The last one hate the second one. I was thinking I might be able to do something like this with a kit I have that allows me to plug one circuit into another, , where I would have it sense the light or sound coming from the extrovert and in turn verbally assault him. However,it is not a definite go, still lots of kinks so I am up for any solutions. I hope this is somewhat coherent to you. If you could give me any leads on where to start, or any places to get good information/products, that would be immensely appreciated. Thanks for your time!
Topic by idaholaura | last reply
I have an idea but have no idea if it would even work. I would like to make a led string that can be two different colors. The idea is that I put the lights up in October and they are purple and orange for Halloween and then as Christmas approaches I can change them to green and white. That way I can put lights up one time and do it when it is still warm out and my neighbors wont think I'm nuts. I know I can weave two lines together and just switch plugs but that isn't complicated enough. I like to do things that are way more complicated than it needs to be but are really cool when they are done. my wife loves it.
Topic by brianv512 | last reply
Oh what to do with the light bulb now that you're basking in the efficient glow of your CFLs? Well, you could convert them into these light bulb lamps as Sergio Silva has done. It's a pretty sweet item with neodymium magnets holding them in place on an included acrylic plate with embedded bits of steel.However, the price tag is $650 for the set which is pretty flippin' ridiculous for what can be remade with scrap and $10 of materials, if that. To be fair, the light bulbs Silva makes are sturdier than the regular item, are all made by the original artist, and are limited to a run of 66. So you're buying some design-y street cred before they get knocked off and sold for one-tenth the price. Linkvia bbgadgets
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
Is there any way of connecting multiple fluorescent light bulbs *THIS* to 1 power plug....i'm a newb, so if this is pretty complicated, i'm gonna need some articles :) the reason i ask this is because i'm thinking about constructing a (full room) black light in it's own sweet casing. it would go around my whole room around the perimeter (around the upper edge, touching the ceiling) so ya...i have enough construction knowledge to build the casing and everything else, BUT i do not know hardly anything about electrical stuff...which is why i have you guys :) so ya...any help (or different solutions other than light bulbs) would be greatly appreciated. thanks :)
Question by miqt | last reply
I'm trying to make a solar powered battery charger for my 4AA rechargeables, and I'm stumped on what kind of solar panel I should use. I have two solar panels: one 0.5V 800ma, the other 2V 200ma. Which solar cell would be better for what I'm going to be using them for? And I'm wondering what the specs of those solar garden lights are, and if the solar panel for the garden lights is strong enough to charge the batteries.
Question by Justin Lam | last reply
New research with nanocrystals has created a new LED that gets 300 lumens per watt. Even better, the light is a warm white and not the cold blue-tinted white that we all know.The crystals absorb some of the LED's blue output and emit their own red and green light. That combines with the remaining blue light to produce a soft white glow.Existing commercial white LEDs are also based on blue LEDs. But they use a phosphor coating that converts some blue light into a broad spectrum of yellow light. When mixed with remaining blue light the result is a harsh blue-hued white. Link
Topic by fungus amungus
For wireless internet on a laptop is cardbus faster than usb?
Question | last reply
I want to power 3x 0.5W LEDs in series with 3x AA Ni-Mh batteries (input voltage will range from 2.5 to- 3.7 ). The total forward voltage is around 10volts, and the current of the LEDs is 150mA. I've tried using a Joule thief but it's quite inefficient, even with different transistor / toroid / resistor configurations (even with fast switching Darlington transistors) the maximum current I've been able to get at the LEDs is less than 100mA, and many energy gets lost in the process, it seems the resistor between the coil and the base of the transistor slows down the switching process and limits the current. I need a more efficient way to power the LED's, either an improved design or a LED driver chip. But trying to keep the efficiency rate around 60-70% or more. I have found a design that claims to be more efficient (see picture), but I'm not sure about if it will deliver 150mA.
Question by Victor805 | last reply
We have a Sony Walkman MZ-N707-r It uses Mini disks We have all the programs that come with it. eg: Jukebox How can we move all files on disk to computer for editing without transferring hour for hour . The program that comes with the Walkman only goes for a few min. and then shuts down. Some times we have hours of information that we would like to down load but it takes the same length of time that it took to put it on. Any programs out there?
Question by emit | last reply
I am working on a dc to dc converter and it works but it seems to me that when i go higher than that it doesn't work anymore. I am using two C945 transistors. The resistor values for R1 and R4 are 1K and for R2 and R3 are 15k . For the capacitors C1 is 2.2nf and 1nf for C1. i have tried putting in smaler capacitors and increasing the two base resistor values. BTW its for a dc to dc converter that im working on. I also have no idea how much inductance on the inductor is. I am try to step up 6V dc to 15 V. It works put its low on power thats what i want.
Question by josh1001 | last reply
I've found that when using solar panels to charge batteries and do other solar panel related projects, they work much better with natural sunlight over florescent lights. While I am willing to accept this fact and deal with it, I can't help but wonder why. Any ideas?
Question by phalanx447 | last reply
I would like to make a 3w solar led garden light to illuminate small tree. I was going to use an 18V 5W solar panel (Peak Voltage: 17.2V Peak current: 0.29A Open circuit voltage: 21.6V Short circuit current: 0.33A) to charge a 12v battery (Capacity : 4800mAh Rechargeable Li-on battery Input voltage : 12.6V Output voltage : 10.8~12.6 DC Output current : 1 - 2.4A) . I have found a charge controller which I think will do what I want (3A 6v/12v PWM solar panel light controller battery charge regulator http://www.banggood.com/3A-6V-12V-P...ry-Charge-Regulator-Intelligent-p-997571.html) The led I was going to use is 3W Voltage: 3.4-3.6V current: 600MA. I know I will need a voltage regulator to get me to the led forward voltage, but other than that does this look possible? Would an led driver be required? If there are any parts which someone would advise changing I am very happy to take advice, any help very gratefully appreciated.
Topic by earton | last reply
I have purchased a commercial LED rope light which has about 8 selectable light pattern by pressing a tack switch in series. Problem is everytime the rope light is unplugged then switched back on it always defaults to the first pattern. Is there an easy way of setting a default patter other than the first light pattern?
Question by jojitf | last reply
Hello there, When I check my IR light emitters, they are giving a different voltage, 3.5mV and 0.8mV. Do they need to be giving a similar value for the eyes to function properly? Also these values are much lower than the 0.6V quoted in the instructions. Any advive would be much appreciated.
Topic by LeonR
My mother's birthday is coming up soon and since two things I know are that her current light fixture is crap and her favorite flower is a cala lily I want to make a cala lily light fixture. Most of it is uncomplicated enough I can do it no problem. (wiring, attachment, etc.) The one thing I am a bit worried about is the actual bloom part. I can negate the heat issue by using an led system to keep the heat down (I prefer it anyway) but I can't think of any material which I can easily shape to the desired form. I don't have the tools or experience to do glass or metal on a serious level. I briefly considered polymer clay, but that seems like a rather large piece for it. I am an adult and I won't hold you responsible if it all goes pear-shaped so any advice is welcome.
Question by finfan7 | last reply
In which I ask Kelseymh his assessment of the experiment which they think may have detected neutrinos travelling faster than light. (Holy run-on sentence, Batman.) (Yes, I should have checked his orangeboard first...I'm a bad stalker. :P )
Topic by Lithium Rain | last reply
The idea behind the Kyoto Trough is to use a parabolic trough (rotated inwards round its focal line) so that all the light it collects over a certain time (1 2 3 or 4 hours) focuses BELOW the focal line. Then you use other troughs (probably facing at right angles to the first one) to concentrate this light further onto the cooking pot. I have done a rudimentary test in software and the concept does work there. I think it will also work as a panel cooker. It is very important to line up the primary trough with the path of the sun across the sky. It should also work as a panel cooker. Just a much longer panel cooker with the v shaped little wings like in the diagram Or perhaps a panel cooker with just one "tail" going up in the air and insulation on the back half of your cooking pot? (taking away one half of the device) Thanks Brian
Topic by gaiatechnician | last reply
I'm beginning the process of doing some pretty major remodeling projects in my home, and was looking through the Furniture category, in the hopes of finding some ideas. Maddeningly, it's arranged alphabetically by the title of the Instructable! https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructable...That makes zero sense, unless you are looking for an 'able whose title you already know. I mean, honestly! -WTF is a "20KRKR", and why would anyone think to click on it to find an 'able for a *rocking chair*?! ( https://www.instructables.com/sitemap/instructables/furniture/ )So I'm wondering how one could go about either re-organizing the category, or providing an alternative browsing structure based upon the actual categorical function of each piece of furniture. Taxonomically, this should not be a problem. Seating is seating, lighting is lighting, work surfaces are work surfaces, etc., and each could logically be subdivided. For example, the Lighting category could be split into Task lighting, Area lighting, multi-function lighting, and Seating could be divided into Group seating (sofas, love seats, etc.), Single seating (arm chairs, side chairs, stools, etc.), and so on. I think that this would be vastly easier to use than the current alphabetical structure. Any opinions pro or con? Any suggestions as to how to make this happen? Is there anyone at Instructables whom I could contact and propose this to?
Topic by Bricology | last reply
Hello all, I am working on a light fixture and I would like to paint the walls of the fixture a reflective color in order to get a more even spread of light. I've been hearing silver and white as good options. Is one better than the other? Do I need a specific type of paint? Does it matter whether its a matte finish or glossy? Thanks, Ben
Topic by BHSilverman | last reply
I have a bank of 30 x 6 volt lamps in an old computer console and I am trying to find a circuit to flash them in a random pattern. Ideally the lamps will be driven from a chip rather than individual transistors. I'm perfectly capable of building the circuit, but not designing it. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Thank you.
Topic by nickpb | last reply
I came across this website last week but wasn't able to get it into a forum, but here it is. This company embeds approx. 52 LED's into each board, than wires them up in between one of the multiple veneers of wood, then connects them to a rechargeable battery and an on/off switch behind the front trucks. They come in many different colors and sizes. here are some of the pictures from the site, and they're video.Photon Light Boards
Topic by bumpus | last reply
I know someone who is considering adding an hho (hydrogen generator) system to their car. however, their concern is that the system will wear out the engine faster than normal, and therefore cancell out all of the savings. would the engine be affected negatively by the higher temperature and pressures, etc?
Question by biolethal | last reply
I am wondering if you run a led at full voltage and amps then as you add more resistance light output goes down here is my question 1 led at 20ma or 2 led at 10ma do not 2 leds give more light than 1. Like is light output a linear taper to amount of current applied or is it more of an audio taper?
Topic by John1397 | last reply
I'm looking to run some screen lighting for my projector - but its only 30 watts total (among 5 lights tranformers, tolerant of funky AC)... Will the triac inside not fire properly without load?
Question by frollard | last reply
Can you help me find a safe way to build a cheaper version of this: http://reviews.lowes.com/0534/3125483/reviews.htm? Here's my situation: I want to convert double-lamped can lights into adjustable spotlights without making any permanent changes other than unscrewing a lightbulb and replacing it with something else. It needs to be able to go back to a lightbulb very easily. The cans stick out from the wall and each socket is oriented vertically, so one points up and one points down, effectively washing the wall up and down with light. The wall of 8 or so are wired so the tops are all on one circuit and the bottoms are all on another circuit. The item from Lowe's works OK, but is $17 and more flexible than I need. Here's what I started to put together: At the top is a 100W Par38 spot light, screwed into a single outdoor metal lampholder. That is attached to a 1/2" pipe (PVC or metal), about 12" long. Now, at the bottom of the pipe, it needs to screw in to the socket to get power. I either need to get an E27 lamp base onto that pipe, or use a two-blade outlet adapter that screws in, and get a two-blade plug that is rigidly fixed to the pipe. Is there anyway to do this that the NEC would smile at? Absent of that, a way that is still safe and secure, and safely removeable without changing the existing light socket arrangement?
Topic by kpatrick2 | last reply
Question by Rajesh_Sahu | last reply