K'nex Flux

Hello everybody! I'm here to tell you about a website I recently joined, created by Sorunome, which is amazing! It's a forum for k'nex called KnexFlux. You can make instructions, like Instructables, or even import from Instructables. You can ask for help with your builds, ask for suggestions with your builds, look for ideas for builds, post progress with your builds, and much more! Basically, anything k'nex related is allowed there and it's much more useful than Instructables. I'm not saying we should all quit Instructables, I'm just trying to raise a lot more awareness of this amazing website. Sorunome tells me it's taptalk compatible too, so you can browse it with ease from your phone/tablet! Here it is: http://knexflux.net/

Topic by That_Jamie_S_Guy 


Diy soldering flux

Quick question regarding diy soldering flux can i use gum rosin to make the flux

Question by nikko_47   |  last reply


What is sodering flux?

Null

Question by pearson4   |  last reply


What is soldering flux used for?

Just wanted to know.

Question by young skipper   |  last reply


In the world of electronics......what is flux used for?? Answered

Do you put it on your soldering iron or on a wire?

Question by chipper35   |  last reply


Should I use a flux pen? Answered

While soldering, some contacts don't want to take the solder even after heating it. I think some of them might be dirty. Could I use a no-clean flux pen like this to clean the contacts and also make soldering a little easier?

Question by Arya42   |  last reply


how to use water soluble flux?

Hey, so i got a little Water Soluble Flux with my Soldering Gun (new to this)  Well it turns out that this stuff came with no instructions and I cant seem to find out how to correctly apply it.  this is what I bought http://www.bernzomatic.com/PRODUCTS/KITS/SOLDERKITS/tabid/252/ctl/Detail/mid/1254/xmid/6931/xmfid/3/Default.aspx Someone please help?

Question by Epond89   |  last reply


how does a flux capacitor work O.o? Answered

Like it said in the title, I wanna know how it works so I can go Back in time.

Question by 64bitgenius   |  last reply


Need Idea of what to do with this?!?!

I bought this "FLUX capacitor" at a closing antiques/random oddities place a few months back and am now being pestered to do something with it. If anyone has any ideas as to what someone (with beginer experience in most areas) can create with this as a base, please drop a comment, if better pictures are required, just ask and i will try and get better ones. Thanks, ~bIrD P.S. Sorry for the rotations on the pictures, don't know how to change it in instructables...

Topic by godofbird   |  last reply


Axial Flux Wind Turbine

24 pole, 3 phase alternator. 18 coils of #20 wire 80 turns each, 6 coils in each phase connected in series, then wired 3 phases in star config. Put out lethal voltages at a very low rpm. Using N45 2" x 1" x 1/2" Neo Mags, two discs of 24 each attracting each other through coils. I need to know what the number of turns would be for #13 wire, same configuration for charging batteries.

Topic by dna11207   |  last reply


borax, boric acid, flux

Does anybody know the relationship of borax and boric acid? Are they different forms of the same thing? Are they related at all? What if any do these have in relationships to flux to silver smithing. (I think the flux is Boric Acid but I am not sure.) I have a box of Borax, that I use to make liquid laundry soap. - I also used it to make crystal snow flakes - beautiful. Just curous.

Topic by gloflyer   |  last reply


Flux core welding wire any good? Answered

Im looking at wire feed welders but I don't want to screw around with gas, So is the gas less flux core wire any good??

Question by camping crazy   |  last reply


I need help to braze 308 and 316 steel rod Answered

I'm a glass bead maker and silver jewelry maker. I'm trying to braze 308L steel rod to make some jewelry displays. I have had limited success using my regular silver jewelry solders and griffith flux but the joints are weak and easily broken. I have a torch but I need to know which filler material to use and which flux I should buy for it. So far I've been unable to fathom it out. Sadie

Question by sadiesjewels   |  last reply


Soldering aluminium and stainless steel - input for an Instructable

I am currently working on a new Instructable covering the topic of soldering aluminium and stainless steel. As I am "old school" and don't like to waste money on special equippment unless really necessary, I would like to get some feedback on what to include. So far I covered the basics of the materials, the general how to and what to llok out for. Pics and videos will be made once I am happy with the tutorials to give a better understanding. Aluminium is considered to be hard to solder with no experience and I would like to try to make it possible for the hobbiest to do it, same for stainless steel. For example: Should I include my recepies for stainless steel fluxes or limit it to the procedure of actually doing it without any flux? Is is better to document with nice pictures or videos showing the entire process? (asking the noobs that want to learn it) Is it necessary to go into details like what solder alloy is best for the purpose? For me it is quite hard to go back to a "I know nothing about it state" and make sure everything a noob might need is included. But the longer I work on it the bigger the Instructable is getting with informations that not everyone might need, like how to properly clean the surface, remove the oxide layerand provide the right temperature for the job. Trying to keep it simple but complete and not drifting into boring details is harder than I tough on this topic :( Feedback and requests are welcome!

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply


how do you make homemade flux???

I saw the instructable about making flux out of pine cones but i have a problem: WTH do i get pine cones in a tropical country??? I did some research and found out hydrochloric acid is a component in some fluxes out there. I wonder if i can use lemons, an abundant supply in the form of calamondins here in the Philippines. EDIT: it's for soldering

Question by beehard44   |  last reply


[newsletter] Flux Capacitor, Bike Blender, Grow a Pineapple...

Sign-up for our newsletter here. June 5, 2008 Welcome back! We launched our Lonely Planet Travel Tips Contest. Share a great travel tip and win some fantastic photo books as well as guidebooks, phrasebooks, and t-shirts! The Discover Green Science Fair for a Better Planet Contest closes for entries this weekend! Submit your Instructable soon to win the Celestron SkyScout. The voting has closed for Park Tool Bike Month. Check back later today to see who won! Check out these cool Instructables! DIY Flux Capacitor Get ready to go back... to the future! 1.21 gigawatts not required. posted by sponges on Jun 3, 2008 How to create a bike blender for less than $25 When the love of biking and the love of smoothies come together it can be a beautiful, and tasty, thing to behold. posted by I_bike on Jun 1, 2008 The Conetenna - a wi-fi antenna The quest for improved wi-fi continues with this massive cone variation of the cantenna. posted by Shadetree Engineer on Jun 1, 2008 How to Grow Pineapples Pineapples are easier to grow than you think. Get a pineapple and some dirt and you're most of the way there! posted by woofboy111 on May 30, 2008 Japanese lamp from recycled materials A cheap but attractive paper "shoji" style lamp that uses mostly recycled parts and is easy to put together. posted by PKM on May 29, 2008 How to make an Iron Man Mask Whether you're stuck in a cave or have some time at home to build, these instructions will help you get that superhero look. posted by msraynsford on May 30, 2008 Repainting an Old Bicycle Want to keep your old frame looking good as times and styles move on? A new paint job is likely in your future. posted by Dr.Paj on Jun 1, 2008 Etching brass plates Adding some brass adds a bit of class to your project. Learn to etch and you can include a sweet custom finishing touch. posted by gotang on May 27, 2008 Win amazing LED POV kits! What have you done for robots lately? Closes for entries this weekend! Handy Bike Mods and Projects This collection of things to do to and with bicycles will provide plenty of ideas for your next two-wheel project. posted by TimAnderson on May 30, 2008 Illuminated Keyboard Hack Turn your ordinary keyboard into an illuminated one for under $5. This is an easy keyboard mod that takes about a half hour to do. posted by Kipkay on May 30, 2008 Bike Generator Attach a generator to the rear wheel and power up both the front and back lights. Never worry about the batteries dying again. posted by dbc1218 on Jun 1, 2008 Zigzag Pop-Up Here's a quick pop-up that only takes a few minutes and has a nice effect. All you need is a printer (preferably color), paper, and something to cut with. posted by fungus amungus on May 30, 2008 Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Topic by fungus amungus 


How can I make RGB LED lights change color with a switch? Answered

I would like it to have five options: Red, Green, Blue, White, and a pulsing, changing color. What switch can I use and what parts would I need?

Question by metalshiflet   |  last reply


is this good rookie soldering tool?

Is this good for a rookie solderer ? my dad is going to take me to ace hardware so i can buy a soldering iron so i have to pick one quick so i know what to get when i get there so isthis a good starter kit

Question by albylovesscience   |  last reply


How much is liquid solder flux at menards?

I like to solder things and stuff. I get frustrated when the solder just wont stay or go where I want to. Today I was working on a robot for science olympiad at school and my teacher showed me how to use liquid solder flux. I was amazed by how well it worked. I asked him where he got it and he said menards but he didnt remember how much it cost. Does any one know. I cant drive yet and my family is sick except me so asking a friends mom to give me a ride to menards would be kind of weird. Do you know how much it cost at other stores? I could only find the paste on radioshacks website. It didnt seem to work as well when I used it. 

Question by TOCO   |  last reply


Shape of coil windings on a axial flux generator

I am making a axial flux wind turbine. I have watched many tuts on YT and researched alot on the net, but there is one thing that is confusing regarding the coil windings: Does the gap in the middle of the coil have to be the size of the magnet? many people do this and many don't, from a engineering perspective, which is better, my understanding is that it is best to make the gap as small as possible, that way you use up most of the magnetic flux. What is the best approach and why?

Topic by maaz1598   |  last reply


luminous flux vs intensity for wall lighting? Answered

Forgive me if this is an elementary question; I have very little understanding of optical physics.  Asusming that's even what this pertains to. Anyhow, I'm designing a music responsive LED display.  The gist of it is that the LEDs will be angled towards the wall slightly, with the intent being to use the wall as a sort of canvas for the light. I know flux somehow pertains to the general light emitted/spread, and intensity to the intensity at the point of emission. Unfortunately, my grasp pretty well ends there. As such, as I go to purchase LEDs, I'm unsure of which of the two is more important for my project (as it seems I can't have a maximum of both for my price range).  So my question is such:  Which factor (flux or intensity) will create a bolder impact in the context of visibly lighting the wall?  Keeping in mind that I don't intend or need to light the room itself, merely create the boldest display on the wall.  Thanks for helping a novice!  

Question by Skidion   |  last reply



Rewinding a MOT to make a high current supply. Answered

New Question: Ok, I've done a little more research on this, and it seems that MOTs are just pieces of junk basically. Manufacturers design them to go far into saturation because they don't care how much electrical power is wasted, as long as the transformer is cheap to make. The air gap is probably there just so it's easier to cool with a fan. Now I need to bring this thing out of saturation. There are about 90 turns on this primary, which I want to be the secondary at 30 V. So I would have to wind a new primary with 360 turns of thin wire. That's a lot of work, and a lot of wire. Is it worth it? The other option would be to add turns to the existing primary. This seems more reasonable, but just how much would I need to use to bring it out of saturation? Original Question: So, I'm a physicist (in training) and I know the theory behind transformers, but actual transformers are still pretty mysterious to me. I've found quite a few Instructables and other sites related to MOTs, specifically related to making high current power supplies with them. The problem I'm having is that even when the secondary is open, and indeed when the secondary has been completely removed (and the shunts removed), the primary draws upwards of 10A when connected to mains. To me, this is unacceptable. Transformers should draw significant power only when current is drawn from the secondary. I'm trying to figure out why (specifically) it does this. I've got a variac and the transformer only begins drawing more than about 2 amps once the variac is set to about 90V. This seems like non-ideal behavior to me, but what I know about saturation tells me that the amount of steel the core has is more than enough to stave off saturation at open secondary, but I could be wrong. The only thing I can think of is that the primary coil has about a 1cm air gap on either side of the core. Since the efficiency is related to the magnetic flux, and I'm guessing the area of the air gap is roughly 1/5 of the area of the core, this could cause significant inefficiency. Here's what I want: I want to make a ~30V (possibly with multiple taps) high current supply out of this MOT that draws less than 1 amp when the secondary is open. I tried connecting the mains to the secondary before I removed that and I got about 5 volts on the primary, but I need more than that, and the windings were so saturated with resin I had to just remove the entire secondary. I'm thinking about winding a new primary (using the old primary as the new secondary) with something like 18 gauge wire that would give me 30V. Would this work? What I really need to know is why the existing primary is drawing 10 amps. That's just ridiculous. If I can solve that then the problem is easy. Update: There is a difference between resistive and reactive current, and I know that reactive current actually draws net zero power because it's 90 degrees out of phase with the source voltage. Capacitive and inductive loads do this apparently. Is this the reason for the massive current draw? If so, I might be able to minimize the current draw from the mains line by putting a matched capacitor in parallel with the primary. But this wouldn't stop the transformer from heating up.

Question by laserjocky   |  last reply


can i soldier on with my soldering?

I was give a gift of a soldering iron, it came with a crappy little stand, so im making one i saw here, and a little coil of soldering wire..but while checking out various "how tos" i keep seeing flux...it didnt come with flux...for flux sake....do i NEED to use flux? is ther a substitute?

Question by teachme2night   |  last reply


Can I weld aluminum with a mig welder if I have flux core wire? Answered

My parents got me and my younger brother a mig welder for Christmas they also got flux core wire because gas is expensive. But my brother keeps saying that we cant weld aluminum with it I have heard of aluminium flux core wire but he still says it wont work. Dose the aluminum flux core wire work any good or is there something else we need to get?

Question by Dalen Brewer   |  last reply


how to make flux, there are instructables how to do that, but i can't find ethyl alcohol?

option, 1. vinegar 2. sodium bleach that all that i can get,

Question by hore   |  last reply


We are LIVE!!! - Knex Flux - General purpose Knex forum

Knex Flux is live now, you can visit it here: http://knexflux.net So, I randomly had that idea and Sandro likes it too and stuff, so yeah, is there any demand for a general-purpose knex forum uniting all the parts of the knex community under one hood? Of course such a forum would need people who actually use it, thus me asking if it would be used ^.^ I could do the hosting, I know my way around such stuff :) This would be in particular good for sharing progress, which isn't really possible on instructables, sharing small projects you don't think are worth a whole new instructable, helping others out and of course all just having a fun time together!

Topic by Sorunome   |  last reply


Soldering tips and tricks for complicated metals

Whether you are just a hobby builder or do your own electronics projects, you know how to solder...Then one day you find yourself in the position that your solder just does not want to stick...My first moment of total defeat happened when I was a teenager.Was building some simple motor with instructions from a book but substituted what I could...Ended up with some stainless steel contacts and being unable to solder my wires to them...If you ever had problems like this then read on ;)What are easy to solder metals?Basically everything that does not form an oxide layer on the surface and is able to bind with tin, lead or silver.Copper is one of the easiest metals to solder on but every plumber certainly knows how important a clean and corrosion free surface is.Any coating or alloy that prevents oxidisation or provides a harder surface usually means with normal, electornics solder we might be lost.Nickel for example can be a true pain and same for chrome.So lets start with the hard metals first.Steel, nickel, stainless...If the part size does not already mean trouble to get it hot enough, then we face the problem of how to "wet" it with our solder.Normal steel is usually fine if you give it a fine sanding right before the soldering, however getting the heat onto the part is crucial.Even something simple like a 5mm thick steel rod can be a pain with a normal soldering iron.I good way to cheat is to preheat the part or area with a blow torach on a soft flame - not a hot, blue flame.Try to do this away from the area you need to solder as the temperature difference usually causes some initial condensation on the surface.Most steels that play a vital role don't like to be overheated as it can affect the hardness an other things, so be careful here.Rosin core solder works fine on steel and it also indicates when the temperature gets too hot by boiling and smoking badly.If you still struggle to wet the surface try to scratch it with your solder - if it does not melt the surface is not hot enough.Nickel coatings are usually very thin and a slight sanding quickly reveals the layer underneath.If the metal used is not copper already then a copper layer will be electroplated on before the nickel coating.Either way the key is to get through the nickel without going through the copper, for example if steel contacts were used for durability reasons.After that soldering is as easy as directly onto copper.Steinless steel however can be a true pain, same by the way if you need to preserve the nickel coating as best as possible and can sand it off.Without using chemistry the only way I found is to use a stainless steel tip in the soldering iron.But as the preperation of one requires chemicals anyway we might start with them first.The passivating layer of layer or stainless steel can of course be pre-treated by sanding.Especially very shiny surface benefit from it.After this I prefer to wet the surface with Phosphoric Acid - you can find it in the harware store as "Rust remover".It is a food grade acid used in many of your favourite fizzy drinks, so skin contact is not a big deal - just wash it off.The phosphoric acid is not strong enough to break the oxide layer but it keeps air away.And once you start scratching the hot metal with your stainless steel soldering tip it will prevent a new oxide layer from forming.This method however requires a low temperature solder and quick work as the acid boils off quickly.In the plumbing section of your hardware store your find various fluxes for soldering.Look for something containing both Ammonium Chloride and Tink Chloride.Around here a common brand name is Bakers Fluid.Usually if it has a red danger label on it you will find the above ingredients on the lable somewhere.Be careful with it as it is very corrosive and harmful to your health!Good thing is that all remains can be washed off with just running water.What does it do though?Unlike the phosphoric acid, the chlrodies directly attack the metal.Especially once getting hot, so if in doubt wear proper protection as advised on the label!The oxide layer is not only being eaten away, there is also an ion exchange happening, so a product with more than 30% of zink chloride is prefered here.The zink binds with the stainless steel or nickel and provides an easier way to bond for the solder.Key is to work quickly and with precision!Flux paste is good for brazing but not so good for soldering.The flux liquid, unlike the paste will start to boil right when the metal get to soldering temperatures.That is if you use standard lead based solder, most lead free types should be ready a bit sooner.Start to scratch the metal with the solder and use a soft flame from the other side or close to the soldering area - do not apply the flame directly onto the flux covered area.Why? Well, the flux isolates the metal from the heat of the flame and it will boil off way before the metal gets hot enough ;)On smaller parts and when using the soldering iron create a small bubble of solder and keep scratching the surface while it heats up.In case the flux dries off apply a bit more before this happens!Once the solder starts to wet the metal a tiny bit it is usually very easy to spread it out to the desired size and shape.With the heat applied from the underside the solder will always flow to the area of most heat!Once done it is best to let the part cool down then to give it a good wash under running water to remove all remains of the flux.Failing to to do so will result in quick and ongoing corrosion, so do it properly...Aluminium, the bad metal...I encountered it first when I could not welding or brazing on a quite small part.Plus, of course, the problem of having to add a copper wire as well.Then again when I had to solder some aluminium wire.Acid won't work, chlorides only make it worse, so don't bother with either for aluminium.Standard rosin core solder also fails.But there is a suprisingly simple solution to the oxide problem on aluminium.Mechanical work...There are quite few videos out there showing how someone solders onto some aluminium foil.It is so simple because the foil is thin - use it to test your new skills.A thing though that is often done wrong is the surface preperation.It usually starts with a fine sanding - to remove the oxide layer.....The some oil is applied and soldering starts under the oil cover.And if pay attention then it is often a painful process of scratching with the soldering iron while trying to make the solder bubble wet the aluminium.That's why foil is so simple here....What happened in those videos?Quite simple: Aluminium oxidises right away while you sand it.Even if you are quick with the oil it already happened.So why not do the sanding after the oil was applied?A fibreglass pen or a stainless steel wire brush (usused on other things!) work quite well here.The oil prevents the air from attacking the aluminum.If in doubt use some clay and form a little dam around the soldering area to prevent the oil from running off.Petroleum jelly, vaseline and all other identical things work fine here same for clean engine oil.But you have to use rosin free solder, no flux core, just plain solder.If you don't have it simply melt some normal rosin core solder to a nice drop and clean the rosin off ;)Since there is no real oxide layer with this way of pre-treating the soldering and wetting happens right once the aluminium get hot enough to melt the solder.You might find it sticking nice right away but don't be fooled!You need to heat the aluminium until you actually see the solder forming a nice puddle.With careful sanding you create very clean boundaries.Other soldering tricks...Getting cholired based flux for a single job might be overkill.If you happen to have one of these tip cleaning stones for your soldering iron then you have what you need ;)Simply scrape some of it off and dissolve it is a tiny amount of water.Will only be ammonium chloride and requires more scratching on stainless steel but works...Preparing a stainless steel soldering tip sunds as easy as finding a suitable piece of wire and grindinga tip onto it.If you every changed the tip on a soldering iron them you know there is two types.The simple one for the cheaper irons uses a set screw or similar to hold the tip.The better ones are hold in place by a collar or other type of screw fitting.And well, those have a thicker part in their body.If you need to solder stainless steel more than once or twice it makes sense to buy a cheap but powerful soldering iron and to make sure it uses a straight piece of metal with no thicker parts to hold it in place.If you can't find some stainless steel wire or round bar of suitable thickness you can go slightly below or much thinner if you require a thin tip.Just make a copper or aluminium collar for the tip to hold it in place, like a sleeve to go around.Grind the tip to your desired shape before fitting it in....You won't need a mirror finnish and it can be helpful if the the surface is quite rough.After all, you want to scratch around on stainless steel with it and you can't harm it this way.To get a nice and clean cover of solder onto the tip you need the mentioned flux from above.Use a small cup and fill some of the flux in it so you can dip the tip of the soldering iron into it.If there is no temperature control start with a cold iron and the tip sanded off a last time right before dipping it into the flux.Use some clamps or whatever you feel like to help keeping the tip in place.If you get flux onto bits you don't want to cover with solder then wash off and try again.Turn the iron on observe the tip.As soon as you see tiny bubble forming take it out and quickly start rubbing your solder onto the tip.It helps to have a thick enough solder so you can apply some pressure here.And of course the solder should be nice and shiny and not covered by oxides...Special cases like titanium or othe metals that usually fail to bond with solder....Let's face it: whenever soldering is not feasable we are happy to revert back to crimping or screwing.Nothing wrong with it either and often the better option when it comes to being able to do a quick repair at a later stage.Most of thes special metals, including your favourite heating wire can still be solder using the right surface prep and flux but it really should be avoided if you can.And real bond like you get when soldering copper would only be on a surface level and mechanical strenght questionable.On a professional level ultrasonic soldering is used to make the impossible possible.The cavitation effect breaks through the surface oxides or passivating layers and the solder just wets the surface like it would be copper.On a hobby level things look different though.Unless you decide to build your own solar panels from scratch the investment into some low end ultrasonic soldering machine already set you back a few grand....There is a way to cheat on the cheap though if you are into experimenting and building things....More on that in my other topic about making an ultrasonic soldering tank. ;)

Topic by Downunder35m 


how to build dc electromagnet which produce 5mT of flux density?

Which type of core should be used.it is used in electronic circuit just to wake up data logger

Question by dhanushar   |  last reply


Magnetics software for designing magnet coils?

Dear Instructables, I need to design magnetic coils for a mattress that would emit a uniform magnetic field. Does anyone know of a basic program that would plot flux density over the coils? Preferably free! Thanks! Mike

Topic by Cburg1   |  last reply


Soldering copper to copper?

I'm just starting out but most of the instruction I've seen on soldering (jewelry) talks about flux, the solder itself, and a torch or soldering iron. When soldering copper to copper is there a special flux and solder to be used so that the solder doesn't look "silver"? Does it matter whether you use a torch or a soldering iron?

Question by    |  last reply


How do i determine the number of coil winding/size in a axial flux generator ?

I am building a axial flux wind turbine, i have built a small one, now want to move onto a bigger one. but i couldn't find any information on how to calculate the size of coils for the required power output. example i want to make a 48v 5kw generator, how would i calculate how many turns is required, the wire thickness, how many coils per phase. can someone please explaining the process in determining all this?all the resorces online just give me numbers, example 72 turns of 1mm wire to get 48v, they dont tell me how to calculate it myself for different voltages or different power power output.any help would be appreciated thank you

Question by maaz1598   |  last reply


I would like to paint my titan flux 09 snowboard binding high backs. Any idea what paint i should use?

The paint is starting to come off so Im taking the oportunity to repaint them to match the board. Im mainly concerned with the potential for adverse reactions of the paint with the binding materials cause them to fail.

Question by northall   |  last reply


Replacement of function generator?

Sorry earlier i posted reverse of that...i saw a video on utube a man producing magnetic flux from dc current (conveted to AC with help of dc motor)..how that can be done What i want to stay is you hava a 9v battery a 5v dc motor and a capacitor ow can u produce magnetic flux? without doing any  implicit changes i mean disturbing the motors etc etc(internally)

Question by jatinbatra   |  last reply


im not leaving instructables but im not really doing anything either

 for all the 16 followers i have. if u really liked my instructables. fine. but im not really into knex anymore. no im never getting ride of my knex because when i have kids ill give it to them. the reason im telling u this is because i have been working on 2 guns for the last year and still havent completed them. the reason why i haven't been on insturctables in a SUPER long time is because my hobby is rc cars. ones that go 45 mph. 1/8th scale of a real car. super big bore shockes. two batteries. also, if u wanna get into this hobby, you can message me on youtube. (if u have a youtube account) or here on instructables. if u still wanna follow me, u can go to my youtube channel at http://www.youtube.com/user/puffmonster689?feature=mhee

Topic by mberg   |  last reply


LCD/VFD free samples?

These screens are pretty expensive, has anyone been successful at recieving a sample? Also if anyone knows where I can get samples of flux, desoldering braid, perspex, rare-earth magnets, IC sockets and headers. Thanks, Alex.

Topic by alexgeek   |  last reply


Soldering help?

I have trouble getting the solder to actually stick to the things I'm soldering. I use flux, but all the solder sticks to the tip. I have to keep making a bigger bubble until it falls off onto the wires. Am I doing something wrong?

Question by 7654321   |  last reply


Why is solder not staying on the tip of my soldering iron?

The tip of my new soldering iron is not holding solder while tinning even after applying flux. Soldering is therefore getting difficult, can anyone suggest a solution for this problem?

Question by Ankan Nayak   |  last reply


How do you build a successful working time-machine?

What materials do you need to build a time macchine? How much energy? And how do you controll it? Can you give me some backround knowledge?

Question by awesomo3000   |  last reply


Magnetics software for optimizing coil design?

Dear Instructables, I need to design coils for a matress that would emit a uniform magnetic field. Does anyone know of a free software program that plots magnetic field strength of a coil? Many thanks! Mike

Question by Cburg1   |  last reply


Reuse old motor from cement mixer for building coils in the axial flux alternator for diy project 1kw wind turbine? TIA

 The coils in the alternator are meant to be 14 gauge enameled wire, does anyboedy know if the wire in other ac motors like the one in a cement mixer use this type of wire? Cheers!

Question by llucop   |  last reply


ball mill media help!

I made a ball mill today. and i made some lead balls out of solder,but the solder contains flux. and i know that acids are not good to have in a ball mill because it can spontaneously ignite. so i was wondering if i could neutralize the acid with backing soda? or does it not matter that its there?

Topic by DELETED_DELETED_kruser495   |  last reply


transformer design... Answered

Designing a transformer, currently i have a 250mm by 250mm window for wire and interchangeable coils, some only a few turns, but will leakage flux cause large power loss?, or will it just limmit current, i read some stuff and im not really sure, i mean i don't want to start building it if it won't work

Question by pwnag3   |  last reply


cheapest welder for aluminum?

I need to weld 3/16" sheet aluminum for a boat i'm making and want to do it at the cheapest cost. this welder (http://www.harborfreight.com/90-amp-flux-wire-welder-68887.html) says it won't do aluminum (and i'm not sure 90 amps would be enough anyway). Is that true? What if i bought the 180 amp model? Any suggestions for other welders?

Question by ridecruz88   |  last reply


Welding!!

So I see tons of instructables for no weld bikes, trailers, and all kinds of stuff. Well, I just got a new flux wirefeed welder. I need something to weld! It has just been sitting there after I stopped practicing to save some wire. I welded the seats down in my car and want a new project that's not too hard. Give me your ideas!

Topic by Yerboogieman   |  last reply


how magnetic induction data transfer from sensor happens ?

Hi, i want to know how data from sensor is transfered by coil through magnetic induction to another coil ? i know its range can be increased by relay coils but how to append data to the magnetic flux.. its really confusing . pls some one help me thanks in advance

Topic by rockindud   |  last reply


Solder types (electronics), some good info on the topic

This thread on stackexchange http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3/what-are-the-different-types-of-solder-used-for gives overview of different solder and flux types, what to choose as beginner hobbyist and some points on health risks. The answerers do not agree on everything, but despite that there is lots of quality information gathered together. Maybe good to refer to, when some part of the topic comes up in questions section some time again. Enjoy.

Topic by Libahunt   |  last reply


Solder Iron Tips: oily, bubbly coating forming... See Pics

Can anyone explain to me what is happening with my soldering iron? It makes it very hard to remove. I thought maybe flux is getting down there somehow but I've been taking care to alway keep the tip down and avoid any excess solder accumulating on the tip (aside from tinning of course). But it's happening again!

Topic by milsorgen   |  last reply


i want to make my own led bikelight please help!? Answered

Here is the led info: Dominant wavelength max./ 10,000K Viewing angle 120° DC Forward current max. 350mA Peak pulse current - - 500mA Reverse voltage max. - - 5V Luminous flux typ. 56lm Forward voltage max. 4.0V i also want to make my own battery pack and my own light mount!

Question by thecookiemonster   |  last reply


LED, bipolar diffused common-cathode ultra wha?!

I was browsing through one of my local supplier's LED catalogue..Literally overwhelmed by the types of LED out there.. Diffused, non-diffused, super flux, super bright, ultra bright, common anode, common cathode, flashing, bipolar, etc..Anyone care to enlight this electronics noob? Plus some of the LED spec says something like 630nm, 1800mcd, what do they mean? Thanks..

Topic by gyromild   |  last reply