Extremely small arduino using dip16 form factor?

I am looking for a extremely small arduino board close to this one that I have.-> www.anatools.com/anarduino-kit/ I want a smaller form factor and I dont need need the serial headers, or even the extended sides as I can solder strait to the headers. I tried making my own board using eagle, and diptrace but I am running into alot of issues making it so compact. I was wondering if anyone has already made a board and have to eagle files, or know of any eagle files that I can have so I can etch my own board. Any help would be great! Thanks!

Question by newrev426   |  last reply


Where to find a small form factor 12v Battery?

I am looking to build an LED light that can be powered directly by a 12v source or use an internal battery. I expect that the fixture form factor will be about 4" in length by 2" to 2.5" in width and no more than 3/4" in depth. Internally, it needs to fit two LED units (each draws 0.1-0.2amps and only one would be on at a time) that are 1"x1"x5/8" each, the inside component of a single pole double throw waterproof switch and the remaining space for batteries. I would like to fit the maximum amount of available capacity as possible in as small a space as possible. I am looking for battery suggestions - small form factor, 12v, preferably available via a regular source (i.e. don't have to be special ordered from China), low self-discharge rate, ability to withstand temperature extremes (specifically 120F-140F degree heat). I'll consider wiring up batteries in parallel and serial to get the charge depth and the proper voltage. Any thoughts? I looked at A23 12v batteries and 2CR-1/3N 6v batteries (wire in serial) but I'd like to find something with more available capacity. Also, I'd prefer a non-toxic battery, but will consider lithium, and the ability to be recharged would be a big bonus. I'm guessing there's nothing out there that would give me enough life to be happy, but I thought I'd ask. Thanks!

Question by kcls   |  last reply


Hard drive price confusion

Looking to create a small form factor PC to fit on the back of a monitor and while searching for a hard drive on Newegg noticed that the lowest price 2.5" internal desktop hard drive was $120 and not even 150GB ( http://tiny.cc/01012 ) while a 2.5" USB powered portable hard drive that is 1TB is $90 ( http://tiny.cc/01024 ), these numbers just are not adding up, couldn't I just disassemble the portable hard drive. Not sure if I am missing something important, Help is greatly appreciated!

Question by Algag   |  last reply


12vdc to 5vdc

Can anyone help me, I need a way to convert 12vdc from a vehicle battery to 5vdc for an application that I am working on. I need to do this in a way that it will not fail quickly, and also on the smallest form factor that I can.

Topic by janders223   |  last reply


how effective is this airflow design? Answered

I am working on a very small build pc, and i was thinking that the best way to reduce overall height would be to design a cover piece that directs the airflow from the intake fanover the CPU and northbridge heatsinks and out the back of the unit via an exhaust fan. this method was chosen because the fan cannot be on top of the cpu heatsink because the unit would be too bulky if it was. I have attached a crude image of the planned cover and the layout of the board's heatsinks, and i would like to know if this is a effective method for cooling, in such a small form factor. if it isn't, what is?

Question by zack247   |  last reply


How can I make a biodegradable adhesive in a paintball-like form-factor that's durable but would break if thrown.

Scenario: you're riding your bike. A car cuts you off. You have a little hopper full of these balls and have the presence of mind to get one out and throw it at the car. It sticks to the car. When the driver gets home, he sees it. Inside of the clear adhesive is a laminated piece of paper or something durable with a link written on it. The driver goes to the website and reads instructions about how to be a better bike-friendly driver. They wash the adhesive off with no damage done to the car. They become more conscientious drivers.

Question by pyaranderson   |  last reply


I need a small FM radio tuner that can be set up for presets?

I need a small form factor FM frequency radio with tuner that can be set up for presets and to a plug in power supply To be used on a exercise machine. It also needs a headphone jack.

Question by fiteqprpr 


Looking for Info On These CNC Motors For Replacement

I purchased a surplus 2-axis CNC machine with built by Yamaha. I hoped to rebuild it into a new machine for myself, but it ended up requiring 200 volts AC for the controller and motors, which I don't have access to. I sold off the controller already. I don't know too much about professional CNC macahines, hoping someone has some input. I am hoping to replace the motors with ones in the same form-factor that run on DC or 120v AC(if such thing exists), preferably stepper type. I do not know what form-factor/package/mounting style to look for, or even if any are available with the power requirements I want.  Motors are the same for both axis and are part#: TS2620N664E122, attached are some pictures. Thanks,

Topic by ChromationSystems   |  last reply


How to take a PC DVD Drive and make it a stand alone DVD player?

Yes, I know I can use one of the many small form factor PC's out there...but what other ways can I use to achieve the goal of taking a pc based internal DVD Rom and getting it to work as a standalone dvd player.....

Question by IdeaVault   |  last reply


Anyone use or think of a use in projects: used discarded automotive Serpentine Belts?

I've cut some into strips and bonded pieces to appliance edges making "scratch resistant bumpers.My vacuum cleaner does not chip paint from the woodwork anymore!  Serpentine belts are strong and have a nice form factor. Pieces of thick rubber for projects are hard to find any ideas?

Question by MEGACYCLES   |  last reply


Ice Alaska: Ice

Ice for the competition is collected form gravel pits around Fairbanks. In the summer gravel is mined from old river channels. The resulting ponds contain little organic material. Additionally during nine month winter, temperatures range from +40 to -60F (+5 to -50C). These factors combine to create exceptionally thick clear ice. The following are pictures of an iced over gravel pit.

Topic by jesse.hensel   |  last reply


Dual HDMI Processing

I have an idea for a project that needs to process 2 hdmi inputs in real time, and 1 hdmi output. What kind of processing power would I need for this? I don't think an arduino would be able to handle it, but would a raspberry pi? Or should I be looking at like a mobile dual-core or something? I'm trying to keep it in a small form factor and have it the least amount of lag possible. Thanks, -Nikon

Topic by evillordnikon   |  last reply


Camera Flash Circuit

I know that it's pretty easy to cannibalize a camera flash to do some pretty simple things...but i find it difficult (probably by design) to solder things to these prebuilt boards (especially the "charge button"...that things not built for soldering)...i was wondering if someone could work up a circuit schematic with part numbers (or at least part identification) for a flash circuit like those in a disposable camera...so that someone could build it from scratch in whatever form factor they choose.

Topic by crapflinger   |  last reply


How to make Arduino triggered still camera?

I'm looking for a simple way to make a camera using Arduino with the following properties and behavior: -when a certain signal from a sensor or switch gets to the Arduino it takes a single picture and sends it to some kind of memory, preferably a large one that can hold a lot but is small in form factor like an SD card or USB stick. -the camera is always on and waiting for input, allowing the image to trigger immediately upon sensor trigger -the whole thing would work with a fairly small form factor Arduino board, shield, and camera module -obviously camera quality is important, something that would give a reasonably clear image within a fifteen foot distance and in a variety of lighting conditions without a long time taken to focus would be ideal. It seems like most guides I've seen are for video cameras with a ton of options or other inputs. I just want a stupid simple camera that only returns one picture for one input, with an on off switch. Looking for product suggestions or pointers to guides to do this. I'm pretty inexperienced with Arduino. thanks so much!

Question by ilpug 


Wifi Voip Phone

The call control protocol of the WF01 is based on SIP V2 (Session Initiation Protocol version 2, RFC 3261) open standard, which is interoperable with major SIP-based call servers, IP-PBXs, and other standard SIP-based client devices. The WF01_V2 is compliant with the IEEE 802.11b standard and interoperates with any existing 802.11b or 802.11g wireless AP and gateway. It may be used as a cordless handset for residential users or for business users in an office environment. The small form factor of the handset is easy to transport and allows users to place VoIP phone calls in public 802.11-based environment.

Topic by chinakorinna2008   |  last reply


Looking for the smallest wide angle lens I can find

Premise: I have a droid incredible and I love taking pictures with its awesome 8MP camera.  I don't like its depth of field however.  I'm sitting here right now, looking at the camera enclosure, and I'm wondering if I might be able to pop open the red dome of the camera and slide in a tiny wide angle lens.  I've seen the cellphone wide angle lens kits you can buy for things like your iphone, and I actually did buy one for my Zi6.  Worked amazingly well, but even in that small form factor, it sticks out too far for me if i were to use this on my droid inc. Objective: I'm looking for an elegant solution that keeps the wide angle in the enclosure, and can't be knocked off or removed while in the pocket. How feasible would this be?  Would it be possible to find a small enough piece of glass that would give a wide angle view in such a small form factor?  I'm just guessing here, but I'd say the diameter would be 8mm and probably 2 or 3 mm in depth.  Thats pretty tiny... Anyway, I just wanted to get some suggestions from the DIY crowd.  I'll include some pictures of the camera's enclosure to take a look at. Thanks.

Topic by Dotcommer   |  last reply


Any ideas for a PC case mod?

I've decided to clear out my assorted computer detritus (Love that word) and have decided to build myself a teamspeak/ventrillo server from the various pieces. Thing is, i have many small form factor components and no case in which to put them. I previously tried putting the PC into a Frosties (Cereal) box , with success, although the case was too flimsy. This leaves me with the following question:What can I put a small PC in (besides buying a case) that is around the size of a 1kg cereal box or larger?Pictures of Frosties mod

Topic by whatsisface   |  last reply


$13 Arduino Boards now at Evil Mad Scientist Labs

Evil Mad Scientist has just released Diavolino, a low cost option for those who like to do arduino development, take a look:   "Diavolino ("little devil") is a low-cost, easy to build Arduino-compatible development board. Diavolino has the form factor of an Arduino Duemilanove or Arduino Pro, but with nicely rounded corners and a striking appearance. It's a low-profile through-hole version, with a simplified design. It's based on a ATmega328P microcontroller, and comes pre-flashed with the Arduino bootloader. Open source design, with bare basics hardware."   You can buy them here

Topic by frenzy 


Looking for an Electrical Engineer to partner with

Hi - I've got a business idea that requires hardware and I can't build the thing myself.  I'll write the software for it, but I need assistance building the circuitry. The circuitry involved would include a temp sensor, R/F communications module, photodiode, memory (possibly micro SD), controller,  and a timer in a very small form factor (about the size of a cigar tube). I'll split any profits from selling the device 50/50 with the HW designer.  I'll ask you to sign an NDA before we get going. Please contact me here or at bret at thelastmilellc dot com. Rgds, Bret

Topic by bschuhma   |  last reply


Very simple proximity activated switch (several inches range)?

Hello Instructables! I am looking for a simple electronic switch that will instantly turn on when it comes within a few inches (5-8) of a little beacon or antenna of some sort. I would like to be able to have the beacon be small, and preferably flat in form factor, with the receiver/switch system being no larger than an inch square. For size constraints, watch batteries would be the most preferred power source.  Would RFID be a good option for this?  Preferably I don't want this to have to be hooked to a phone, and it would need to be something that I could conceivably make a PCB foror use a very small existing board like a TEENSY. 

Question by ilpug   |  last reply


Connecting an LVDS controller to a laptop LCD? Plenty of pictures and model #s inside!

LVDS Board: SQM-005 v2.1 LCD Screen: LTN156MB6WLED I am not using a backlight in this configuration as I am looking to place this on the stage of an overhead projector to create a "cheap" projector. --- The board shipped with a 30pin LVDS cable. I thought this would be fine but it is nowhere near the right size for the monitor even though the LCD uses a 40pin cable. Is there a form-factor to these cables that I am ignoring? Or will this require a convertor board?... Or is this simply impossible :( --- I have labeled the picture of my materials as I know the objects-- this way you can reference the picture when trying to decode what I need help with in respect to each object.

Question by stalenacho   |  last reply


Speak Visual Contest - for computer modders and visual artists

MAKE has just announce a new contest it's running with NVIDIA called the Speak Visual Contest. This is perfect for computer modders since you can enter a PC mod, gamer station or PC hardware creation. Interestingly enough, it's also open to motion graphics and data visualization that uses a graphics card as well.Top prize is a Digital Storm PC with some killer specs that's worth over two grand. Five runners up will win the BFG GeForce GTX 260 OC MAXCORE. Others will win copies of Building The Perfect PC 2nd Edition or Make Projects: Small Form Factor PCs from MAKE.Even cooler, one of the ways to enter is to submit an Instructable with "modificationstation" as a tag. Below is the full list of ways to enter.Flickr: tag your photos with "modificationstation" and also add it to the Make: Flickr photo pool.YouTube, Vimeo, blip.tv: tag your videos with "modificationstation".Submit your project link via the Make: Submit form.Instructables, tag your project with "modificationstation".You can also send links to your videos, photos or more to us via email. Speak Visual Contest

Topic by fungus amungus   |  last reply


What is the best multivitamin for men to take?

Hello community, I am banging my head against the wall trying to figure out which men's multivitamin is the best for me to take. The more research I do , the more complicated things get. I read that multivitamins in pill form are the worst because of extremely low absorption rates (As low as 10%). Do capsules offer a high enough absorption rate or should I go with a liquid or spray? Spray multivitamins seem to be all the rage right now claiming an absorption rate of 90% and higher. The next problem is finding something with natural ingredients. I keep hearing about how synthetic vitamins can cause more harm to your body than good. One article said that natural vitamin A fights cancer while synthetic vitamin A isn't even suitable for a dog. To complicate things further, there are 20 other similar factors that make finding the best multivitamin very difficult. How do I tell if all the ingredients are in natural form? I just want to make sure that I am taking something that is healthy and good for my body. Does anyone have a good multivitamin recommendation for men (age 32)?

Question by ChippMarshal   |  last reply


International CYNETART competition

Call for Entries for the 14th Festival of computer-based art CYNETART || entry deadline 28.02.2010 TMA Hellerau hosts this international competition of CYNETART, inviting artists and art groups to present their projects, every two years. They can apply with projects that fully utilise digital technologies in their conceptual, creative and performing processes, thereby opening up opportunities for digital performance and their relationship to factors such as time, space, physical presence and social encounters. An international jury with representatives from well-established media culture institutions and experienced scientists with a background in media art history will decide about the winner of the CYNETART-award and the sponsorship award. It will also decide on the award of the artist-in-residence-grant funded by the Saxon Ministry of Science and the Fine Arts. Further information/ Entry Form: http://t-m-a.de/cynetart/wettbewerb?lang=en  

Topic by TMA Hellerau   |  last reply


Rotary magazine

So I've been trying to build again. I had an entirely different project in mind but I noticed that the teeth of gears fit into the grooves of rods. I was experimenting with it quick to see if a gear would make a decent pin lock (it doesn't). I kept toying with it until I went off on this entirely random tangent without planning on it, hence the mismatched colors for the one slot connectors.  Anyway, this is a rotary magazine. Similar to a drum magazine, it's just a magazine in cylindrical form factor rather than a linear form factor. I'm not sure if anyone was able to successfully make one before. This version in particular stores 12 usable blue rods and one extra one that can't be fired. It has a ball joint connector to act as a paddle to help ensure the rods continue feeding without skipping teeth. I don't have many dark grey connectors but otherwise I'd scale this up using red rods and then store yellow rods. It'd be more useful as it'd fit more nicely with a connector body. Currently to maximize ammo use, I'm trying to fire directly from the magazine without feeding it further vertically. The problem is it's obviously an awkward fit. If you imagine a typical 5 layer gun, it'd fit in between layers 1-2 and 4-5 about halfway each. It's entirely doable, but just doesn't look too pretty.   It's nice in that it allows you to store a fair amount of ammo in a relatively compact amount of space, but it's otherwise not a practical storage solution as is. Aside from just trying to figure out how to attach it to a gun, figuring out how to reload it conveniently would be difficult. It -might- be more useful if it can be turned into a roofed, removable magazine. Then at least you can preload them first.  I hope someone can give a weapon that uses this a shot. Perhaps a bolt action for better performance. And again, I'd scale it up to store yellow rods so it's a little easier to use in a standard connector body.  Here's a quick video demonstration and a look inside it at the end:

Topic by TheDunkis   |  last reply


Need to find a Controller Board kit for LG LCD display LP121SP

I have salvaged the LCD panel from an old IBM Thinkpad 570 Laptop and planning to use it with Raspberry pi. The Model and Technical details of the panel are as under: Make :                          LG LCD Inc., Korea Model Number :           LP121SP Panel Size :                  12.1 inches Dot Resolution :           800 (RGB) x 600 (SVGA) Pixel Configuration :     RGB Vertical Stripe Pixel Density :               82 PPI Aspect Ratio :               4:3 (H:V) Form Factor :               Flat Rectangle Display Pixel Pitch :                   0.3075 x 0.3075 mm (H x V) Active Area :                 246.0 x 184.5 mm (H x V) Orientation :                  Landscape type I want to convert this panel to use with Raspberry pi, but unable to find a suitable converter board kit. I have added few images also here for reference. Any help will be highly appreciated.

Topic by antoniraj 


Need to find a Controller Board kit for LG LCD display LP121SP

I have salvaged the LCD panel from an old IBM Thinkpad 570 Laptop and planning to use it with Raspberry pi. The Model and Technical details of the panel are as under: Make :                          LG LCD Inc., Korea Model Number :           LP121SP Panel Size :                  12.1 inches Dot Resolution :           800 (RGB) x 600 (SVGA) Pixel Configuration :     RGB Vertical Stripe Pixel Density :               82 PPI Aspect Ratio :               4:3 (H:V) Form Factor :               Flat Rectangle Display Pixel Pitch :                   0.3075 x 0.3075 mm (H x V) Active Area :                 246.0 x 184.5 mm (H x V) Orientation :                  Landscape type I want to convert this panel to use with Raspberry pi, but unable to find a suitable converter board kit. I have added few images also here for reference. Any help will be highly appreciated.

Topic by antoniraj   |  last reply


Can someone look over my Schematic?

Hello All! I have recently started using Eagle, so please forgive the messy schematic as well as the lack of labeling-I am still trying to learn the ins and outs of the software. So I recently received my raspberry pi zeros after months and months of waiting and have been incredibly satisfied with the size and compatibility. However, the biggest issue is the lack of USB ports, which of course were eliminated on purpose to decrease the weight, size, power consumption, ect. I thought it might be useful to design and fabricate a usb hub shield that follows the form factor of the pi zero. I was searching for information and came across this IC that can serve as a 3-port hub, the TUSB2036. However, it only operates at the USB 1.0 spec. Upon further research, I found that the newer model of this IC is the TUSB2046. I made an attempt to design a schematic off known references as well as the data sheets to form a small hub for the pi zero. Can someone with electrical engineering or circuit design experience please let me know if this would work? I used this schematic as a reference and [attempted] to modify it to accommodate the four port USB 2.0 TUSB2046. One important note, the pin labeling on the schematic follows that of the TUSB2036, as I could not find a way to modify it...Please reference the pinouts in the data sheet for the correct labeling on the TUSB2046. Thank you for all the help! 

Question by JoeW79   |  last reply


How to make smart Distribution power box? Answered

Hello folks i am student of final year . I am doing a project in final year named as "Smart Distribution Power Box" . Its electronics and IOT based project . i just have an idea about it . but don't know how to start it what steps i follow to take it forward . Actutall i 'm trying to make the device something like TED Spyder here is the link of this device you can get idea from this link what i m trying to say .. (       https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UKCsDD4is_Y      )    Its a smart home energy monitor .  first o have to measure phase voltages and currents , then have to calculate real ,reactive and apparent powers power factor,current voltages at rated load ,load varriations,  then i have to make a soft interface to show it in graphical and well as numerical forms on a smart device .  Please like to suggest something how i can move on and how i can make it. I will be very thankful to you if you help me :-)  Thanks 

Question by MubeenS1   |  last reply


Help with an Electronic Sabacc deck

I think an electronic sabacc deck would be epic but so far have not found any that exsist. I understand this as LCD tech is still fairly expensive and there are complications of networking the screens but I think its doable. What is really needed is "cards" that are networked with a small randomization program running that displays pictures. The hardest part would be figuring out how to network the devices so that no two cards can display the same face value at one time.  I think it could be possible to use old cell phones to do this. A semi-modded razor form factor would work really well if we could find some for about 2-5$ each. I am good with graphics and have some programming knowledge but I don't have enough to figure out how to run the program on the device or how to get them to talk to each other. I think that people in this community would have the know how if this is possible and it would be rock star if we could figure it out.

Topic by legendary42 


What's a good cost effective way to make a large plastic body/case?

I'm working on a kitchen countertop type of device that would be similar in size and appearance of a large coffee maker. I plan on making around 50 of these for an initial run. Cost is a factor to prove that a profit could be made while not outsourcing the work involved. My goal is to keep this cost below $30 each part, but could go as high as $50. The body will need to be hollow, and has initial dimensions of 18"x12"x8". It does not need to be one piece, several pieces that can be assembled is actually ideal. Here are a few options that I have looked at as well as my concerns... -Injection molding- I worry about the setup costs for equipment let alone the space needed. -Resin casting - I worry about it being too brittle and effectively making workable molds for assembleable parts. -Resin coated foam - I worry about the look of quality as well as the cost of foam. -Vacuum forming - My main concern is the cost of sheet material. I'd appreciate any input, whether it is to add more ideas or to address concerns that I have.

Question by jpettit   |  last reply


My Axolotls have really bad markings on their skin, what's wrong with them???

Two of my Axolotls have some kind of open wound sores on their backs. One also has it on his tail. I have isolated them into the fridge in there own waters to help the healing process. The third axolotl that I have is still in the 30 gallon tank. She appears to have a sore forming also on the side of her. I am watching it very closely to see if it may be the water that's doing this to them. I tested the water for the temp. which is at 70 F this is a little higher than normal and as I have researched could also be a factor. have had them for about 4-5 months. We have recently moved changing the tank took about 3-4hrs to it moved and set back up. I kept 1/3 of the water to keep the bacteria. I honestly don't know what else to do. if anyone has any suggestions or knows what exactly is going on re-guarding my axolotls, ANYTHING please email me at ttorries12@yahoo.com. Thank You for the Support.

Question by caitlynnmarieee   |  last reply


Transition to a Post-Industrial World

Our friends at the CIRCUS Foundation would like your help, in the form of a few paragraphs speculating on our post-industrial future.You're obviously the perfect people to weigh in on this topic - Instructables is full of green, reusable, energy-saving, upcycling projects, so you're definitely in the headspace - so what do you think the future will look like? Share your ideas in 500 words or less.From the original post: Bridges to the Post Industrial PlanetOur future well-being requires that in twenty years' time we should be living in a manner that differs markedly from the way we've lived in the past century and a half. It seems likely we'll consume less energy, use physical resources more sparingly, moderate the waste we generate, make fewer long journeys, rely more on local produce, repair things we'd currently replace, share objects we might currently own. Other implications are less obvious but potentially significant. Will be the role of corporations change? How will our societies be governed? What civil liberties can we expect?The better we're able to imagine a post industrial world, the better we can identify the barriers to getting there and prepare bridges to get over them. CALL FOR SUBMISSIONS We're inviting people to write a few paragraphs, no more than 500 words, outlining the greatest difficulty you think we face in making the transition to a post industrial world. This might be a technological issue, a cultural barrier, an economic factor or something else. If you have ideas about how the barrier could be overcome go ahead and outline them too.Send your submission to open@CIRCUS-foundation.org along with a couple of lines about who you are. The results will be compiled in a book that will be published free on the web and form the basis of a seminar to be held in London later in 2008.

Topic by canida   |  last reply


peculiar issue with arduino clones; thoughts?

So a little while back, I bought about 10 arduino nano clones. I'd used the nanos before, and really like the form factor, so i got some off of ebay. they worked great, and you'd know no difference in performance compared to other boards, these new ones seemed to boot faster even. unlike most, the ones i got dont use an FTDI chip, but rather a chip labeled as "CH340G". these boards were working perfectly until i was trying to test some code that was very close to the maximum size you can fit in an atmega328. it was 30,000 bytes, and mostly because of the included libraries. when i hit upload, it compiled fine, but once it got to the "uploading" phase nothing happened on the arduino board and after a while it threw an error claiming a response of 0x00, if memory serves. it didnt seem like the atmega was resetting, so i probed it with my oscilloscope, but it certainly was resetting. i thought maybe the capacitor on the reset line had issues, so i replaced it to no avail. everything seems fine in windows and i can still talk to the program previously on the chip via the serial terminal. the only way i can seem to upload code now is via the icsp header. so im wondering if anyone knows what is going on here, or how i can fix the issue?

Question by zack247   |  last reply


Can I use this CRT as a monitor? Answered

I saw this hack on the MAKE blog yesterday, and it reminded me of a project I wanted to try a few years ago: a computer monitor like the one in the  movie Brazil (pictured below). This device appears to be a small CRT screen behind a large Fresnel lens. The lens is easy enough to find in the form of a reading-magnifier, but it was the screen that puzzled me. I couldn't figure out what I could use that I could hook up to a computer. I thought about hacking digital picture frames, but they wouldn't have the cool curved look of an exposed CRT. When the post on MAKE came out, I thought that maybe the screen he used from a Coleman Lantern/TV (which are pretty easy to find on eBay) would work, but I'm not sure. So my questions are these: 1.Could I use this as a computer monitor using similar methods as in the blog post or a different way? 2.Would it be a problem that the TV is black and white? 3.If it's possible, is it likely that an electronics amateur like me could do it? I have experience in circuit bending and blinking LEDs with Arduinos, but little else. This is the deciding factor for me if it is truly possible, I don't want to take on something well out of my skill range. I realize that even if I did succeed, it wouldn't be very useful, but I'm still interested. Is it possible? Thanks, Noah

Question by noahh   |  last reply


Advice required for audio playback from an IC

Hi All, I'm new here so go easy on me :) I need to throw together a circuit to play an MP3 when a switch is closed (Think musical greeting card rather than iPod).  The fundamental issue is a lack of knowledge re: mp3 playback on ICs. Is there a handy light-weight MP3 playback chip kicking around? Presumably I'll need to provide memory, an amp and various other bits. Does anyone know of an SoC that does something this already? I've seen the SOMO-14D (http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9534) but it seems to be very low quality and temperamental. Does anyone have any experience with this? If so, any recommendations? > Quality is important-ish - I know it's never going to sound like my Technics sound system but I'd like it good enough that a non-audiophile wouldn't complain. I'm guessing I'll need at least 128Kb/s for semi-decent audio. > Format doesn't have to be MP3 as long as the quality isn't _too_ low and there's an easy way to convert. > Small size (form factor) would be nice but isn't required. > If needs be, I can get PCBs etched _relatively_ inexpensively so that's not a major consideration. > Any suggestions for a good quality, small speaker would also be appreciated. Skills: I've got a degree in Electrical & Electronic engineering (but haven't touched a circuit since Uni) Budget: ~£300 tops (I'm hoping for considerably less) Time: Within a month or so. Many thanks in advance Basic

Topic by Basiclife   |  last reply


Making The Most Of Your Time Here

If you're reading this, you're hopefully about to become an AiR in the best workshop on earth. Congratulations! This is an amazing opportunity, and i'd like to share my experiences so that you can hopefully glean some wisdom. When I got here, I was quickly humbled. For the first time in my life, I was intimidated. I had never been in such a vast playground and wealth of resources. I put myself under a lot of pressure. I started with some smaller projects that ended up taking a lot longer than anticipated. I did everything the hard way. During this time I formed a great relationship with shop staff, and gained a deep respect for them. A month will go by and you will look back and wonder where it all went. There are a million distractions, and it's a tough game to balance them all. In my last two months, I decided I needed to pick a problem to solve. I bit off more than I could chew, and I chewed it. I did something a bit unconventional, and did a project on sustainability. I was in over my head, and I brought in a friend for help. And i'm really glad I did. Don't constrain yourself to being an 'artist'. You are about to immerse yourself deep in the heart of the maker movement. Make things that you will be proud of, that you can do nowhere else.  This is an nearly infinite opportunity, with the only limiting factor being time. You are skilled enough, have the aptitude, and can do absolutely anything. So what on earth do you make?  Quick Tips: -Pick a problem, and solve it.  Pick a problem that's bigger than one person.  -Don't shackle additional commitments during this time. (I burnt out from a big side project) Devote yourself to the shop. -Reach out to someone at Autodesk, and see if you can get mentorship, or use your art to inform things that they are interested in. Form a relationship with them. You will find wisdom and friendship. -Find a peer, and check in regularly about the scope of your work.  -Pick someone to collaborate on a big project with. Make someone else's dream come true.  -Space out your classes. Don't do it all at once, or you'll forget what that critical button on the DMS is.  Time Breakdown: 33% of your time goes towards collaboration 33% towards learning new stuff that's way above your comfort level 33% for the stuff you can do with your eyes closed

Topic by buchananwp   |  last reply


Why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ?

I am an electronic engineer in the field of RF directional couplers, but I am puzzled about this question, why to use RF directional couplers in some measurements and control processes ? Today I come to this forum to turn to you to discuss my understandings are appropriate. Here are my personal understandings: RF radio frequency is referred to as RF current, it is a high frequency AC change electromagnetic wave short. Less than 1000 times per second changes in alternating current called low frequency current, more than 10000 times called high frequency current, and radio frequency is such a high frequency current. RF technology in the field of wireless communications with a wide range of irreplaceable role. In the electronics theory, the current flows through the conductor, the conductor will form a magnetic field around; alternating current through the conductor, the conductor will form an alternating electromagnetic field, known as electromagnetic waves. When the electromagnetic wave frequency is lower than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave will be absorbed by the surface, can not form an effective transmission, but the electromagnetic wave frequency is higher than 100khz, the electromagnetic wave can be spread in the air, and the outer edge of the ionospheric reflection, the formation of long-distance transmission capacity (Analog or digital) with high-frequency current modulation (amplitude modulation or FM), the formation of radio frequency signals, through the antenna to launch into the air, the radio frequency of the high-frequency electromagnetic waves.  Long-range radio frequency signal received after the anti-modulation, reduced to the electrical information source, this process is called wireless transmission. Wireless transmission developed for nearly two hundred years, forming a large number of users and product groups, but because of climate change and the impact of surface obstacles, can not transmit the perfect information. Modern human invention of the cheap high-frequency transmission cable (radio frequency line), in order to pursue the perfect quality of information transmission, taking into account the original wireless devices, wireless cable transmission began to pop. Resulting in the concept of radio frequency transmission. If your information source through the secondary modulation, with the cable to the opposite end, the opposite side with anti-modulation of the information source after the re-application, no matter how low frequency, but also radio frequency transmission, if there is no modulation anti-modulation process, The information source is transmitted directly to the opposite end of the cable, no matter how high the frequency, are the general cable transmission. SI --- Signal Integrity Signal Integrity PI --- Power Integrity Power Integrity emc --- electromagnetic compatibility Electromagnetic Compatibility rf - radio frequency RF emc = emi + ems EMI = Conduction + Radiation Emission SI: The Fourier transform shows that the higher the signal rises, the higher the amplitude of the higher harmonics. The MAXWELL equations see that these alternating harmonics produce alternating current at the adjacent line. And even through the space parasitic capacitance directly to another conductor, so these high harmonics is caused by radiation interference (emission) of the main factors; (that the simple point is that the signal rise faster, the more complete the signal, the better the signal quality, But for emi bad) . PI: PCB exists on the number \ \ analog area, high frequency \ 'low frequency region and other different areas and planes, if the partition is not easy to interfere with each other, that is, conduction conduction (conduction). Ps: Excuse me if I was wrong in words or expressions as I am a green hand in the field of RF directional couplers. I need continual learnings. What is your idea ? Do you agree with my ideas ? Any of your ideas would be highly appreciated. May someone would like to help ? thanks in advance.

Topic by maryzhu   |  last reply


How does one choose the right 100k potentiometer?

I am building a pickup winder... a simple machine that winds hair-thin copper wire around magnetic poles.I need to build a 12V DC geared electric motor speed controller. I bought the following...12V DC 1000RPM geared electric motorLCD punch digital counter with a magnetic proximity switch12V Double-Pole Double-Throw (DPDT) ON/OFF/ON toggle switchDC12V 2A Power Supply Adapter: AC100-240V to DC12V I know that a DC motor controller can be purchased for around $5-10, but since I am brand n00b to electronics, I want to take the opportunity to learn as much as I can by building everything (or as much as makes sense) myself. I found this Instrucable on building a DC motor speed controller. It seems simple enough, however, when I go to the Digi-Key website and look for 100k Ohm pots... there are a lot to choose from. I do not care about form factor. I have no size restraints or aesthetics. I just need a knob... that I can turn... that will allow me to set it to zero, switch the machine on and have the motor not turn at all... then slowly begin to spin as I turn the knob up to 10, and it is spinning at its top speed (1,000 rpm). This is the motor, this is the power supply, this is the counter, and this is the switch that I bought for this project. According to the instructable referenced above, I need: an IRF3205 mosfet, a 100k ohm potentiometer, and a heatsink. I do not yet have the vocabulary to even properly Google "How to tell which 100k ohm potentiometer works with a 12V DC motor..." Can someone please point me in the right direction?

Topic by Dolmetscher007   |  last reply


Is it possible to use a DVD player hardware / peripherals and convert it into a small "net book" style computer?

I have a "older" (maybe 2 years tops) DVD player made by Haier with a 7" screen. (Total width is about 8 inches.) My questions are numerous but can be sumeerized with this: Can I use the case, psu(battery), and LCD and rip the rest of the guts ot to make a small computer. Now granted, I know it won't be any kind of speed demon. I have built many desktop systems before. But insofar as laptop hardware is concerned I might as well call myself a complete beginner. My plan is thus (and if you would like pictures of the existing hardware and connectors I would be able to supply them): I would take out the mobo and the drive which is broken (my daughter burned the motor out when she was younger by manually moving it) and try to replace it with a smaller form factor motherboard. I would need this mobo to be able to boot from a usb drive so that I could use a bootable linux, possibly ubuntu, and maybe another usb drive for an input device. (Mouse most likely, use an on screen keyboard.) Another question would be are the connectors for the i/o in small devices standard or are they mostly proprietary? Would I be able to use the existing cables with a motherboard? If not are there converters? And the next thing would be that I would need a network card to work with it.... In the end, I would like it to be able to use a tiny linux, have some sort of i86 architechture (becuase flash 9 or 10 wont work with a powerpc arch.), and be able to use firefox to view youtube. It's kind of a gift for my daughter. Is it possible?

Question by Asmodean_7   |  last reply


Image Processing Tutorial : What you do for your images?

Image Processing Tutorial : What you do for your images? Are you in possession of images you want to convert in to digital form? Or simply you would like to perform some operations to enhance their outlook?  Similarly if you just want to extract some useful information from them, all you need is a photo house that carries out image processing. This is where you can have a photo you want manipulated made  the input as you give  specified characteristics you want included. To do image processing, you may have to apply a set of signals that can give you   the desired results. There are three distinct steps to follow in any image processing. They include: Importing images using a scanner or a photography Analyzing and manipulating images using enhancement and compression methods Altering the results we obtain at the output level There are plenty of reasons for carrying out image processing; the reasons and purposes are as follows: So that you can easily observe the parts that are not visible Restoration and sharpening the images for the purpose of making them look better Image retrieval – if you are interested in any particular image, you can have it retrieved. Identify the number of elements making up a pattern Distinguish the object and its image. There are   two methods that can be used in processing any images. Digital Analog If you are analyzing hard copies and printouts, this is what is referred to as visual techniques.  It involves use of various fundamentals and image processing techniques. You need to make use of technicians who are vast in image processing. They may use visual techniques and apply a combination of individual knowledge and experience in image processing. If your pictures are in a digital form, you may employ digital processing techniques to manipulate those using computers. Images collected from sensors and satellites can be manipulated to get the real images or data.  To do this, you need experts who can take the images collected into a number of phases before coming up with the required images.  They must have the latest skills to help them get over flaws and get original information. The data or images collected may be taken through the following phases; Pre-processing, Information extraction, Enhancement and display. Other than image processing service, you may need team   to deal with computer graphics. This is where any desired image is manually made using physical models. It could include lighting, environment and natural scenes. This graphics can be used in animated movies, computer vision and plays. It can be used to create moving images to depict a story. Generally, imaging is key in image processing. The designers should consider a number of factors including; Human visual – where the designers consider the psychophysical process that takes place in human beings as they make sense out of information they see and receive. Lastly in all these, ensure that you get a clipping path company that is vast in imaging and which can work hand in hand with you to ensure that you get the required results.

Topic by rustam3g   |  last reply


Matching 700mA constant current driver to 20mA LEDs? Answered

Hello all: Ultimately I'm trying to drive upwards of 100 3mm white LEDs in an art project with dimming and a connection to 120v AC power (this is for a chandelier). I've been playing around with some constant current IC driver like the Supertex CL2 as well as 5 and 12v power supplies but I've been looking for a dimmable solution with a small form factor. I picked up a Robertson constant current LED driver but it outputs at 700mA, I assume because it's intended for 1W or 3W LEDs needing the higher current. Is there a circuit design that I can use like a current divider to drive smaller loads with this supply? My current thinking is as follows: 1) I could simply load 35 parallel strings of LEDs since 700/20 = 35 (of an appropriate voltage drop probably between 9v-15v) and rely on the equivalent resistance of each string to act as a defacto current divider. 2) I could do the same thing but with an in series resistor of some value for each string, the constraint being that increasing the resistor will reduce the number of parallel strings and I may need relatively high wattage resistors if I'm driving 9+volts of LEDs on each string. 3) I could do a smaller parallel current divider, but I'm not confident in my math analyzing the ratios of the resistors to achieve this (for instance if I had only two parallel loads and one was drawing 20mA and the other the balance of 680mA the resistors would have to have the same (inverted) relationship i.e. 34:1...to say nothing of the wattage through the 680mA line, which might be as high as 6-8 watts depending on voltage. Is that right? Are there any other clever solutions I'm not thinking of? Obviously I could buy a lower current driver (and I may ultimately)  but even the lower current options are at 350mA, so the same problem will exist at a smaller scale. Thanks everybody for thinking about this, I look forward to seeing your thoughts!

Question by michael.pokorny.54   |  last reply


Pager motors: Removing weight and driving wheels

Hello fellow life forms, I am currently working volunteerily at a local school, teaching young kids a bit about telescopes and astronomy. One topic I am currently planning is the mars rover(s) and I am planning on building a simple line follower as activity. As the budget is very low but I still want the kids to be able to build something to take home I am trying to keep it as simple as possible. After I ordered a pager/iphone motor a year back or so, I now ordered 100 vibration motors for $28.50 at aliexpress. http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6020160679.html They work fine but are smaller then the one I had before, a rubbery encasing makes them the same form factor. http://www.ringohr.de/tmp6//motorbadpic001.jpg  http://www.ringohr.de/tmp6//motorbadpic002.jpg  (excuse the horrible pictures, I just have a older android phone) 1) The first problem is removing the weight. I have searched and found several tutorials (for example http://www.robotroom.com/TinyMotor.html) and aproaces, heat and regular pliers failed, for everything else I lack smaller tools.   I consider ordering those grip pliers here in germany, which one would be better? http://www.ebay.de/itm/Gripzange-extra-kurze-Baulange-100-mm-Neu-nur-3-95-505-incl-Versand-/151165386645?pt=DE_Baby_Kind_Baby_T%C3%BCr_Treppenschutz&hash;=item233228bf95 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/Mini-Schweisser-Gripzange-125-mm-mit-Feststellzange-Klemmzange-NEU-OVP-/261407967637?pt=DE_Baby_Kind_Baby_T%C3%BCr_Treppenschutz&hash;=item3cdd210995 I also considered a watch wrist band tool as I have only a limited set of tools,  http://www.ebay.de/itm/Stiftausdrucker-Armbandkurzer-Stiftentferner-Uhr-Federsteg-Uhrenstift-Entferner-/370981549407?pt=DE_Elektronik_Computer_Haushaltsger%C3%A4te_Staubsaugerbeutel_PM&hash;=item566039355f or http://www.ebay.de/itm/Armbandkurzen-Stiftaustreiber-Stiftausdrucker-Werkzeug-/131084177829?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash;=item1e8539d1a5 or http://www.ebay.de/itm/1x-Stiftaustreiber-Stiftausdrucker-Zange-Uhrenwerkzeug-Uhrmacherwerkzeug-/310765191716?pt=Uhrmacherwerkzeug&hash;=item485b0c8224 But I don't think I can adapt them to hold the motors. Any other tricks? 2) The second problem is to drive small wheels with those motors. With the vibration weight attached I can't drive a small foam or cardboard wheel, neither via friction nor a rubber band/belt. I hope it will work once the weight is off. I hope I can solve this issue, else I am stuck with 100 motors that are only suitable for bristle bots ;-) The vibration is strong enoug to move something, also attaching the motors to a cardboard square and directly touch the ground seems to have enough power. I could use a 3d printer to print a gear, but I would like to keep it as simple as possible. Also the groove bearing + shrink tube drive I have seen on another project would not be ideal to build with younger children. I initially was thinking of using bottle caps as wheels and wrap the motor axis with shrink tubing or isolation tape to drive the bottle cap by friction. Thanks for any ideas, advice or suggestions! -Marcus

Topic by schorhr   |  last reply


FAQ: How Do I Search Instructables?

20080605. I exchanged a few PMs with Eric and it seems that even the Instructables staff is not sure about what's going on with the search feature. So ... until they can get this all straightened out, Eric recommends that we use the "site:www.instructables.com" option on Google for advanced searches. The Lucene search should work for most simple searches.. From Google's Web Search Help Center: "You can use Google to search only within one specific website by entering the search terms you're looking for, followed by the word "site" and a colon followed by the domain name. For example, here's how you'd find admission information on the Stanford University site: admission site:www.stanford.edu. Eg, "NachoMahma site:www.instructables.com" will search for my username on this site.. Try Kiteman +Law site:www.instructables.com.. . Sorry for any confusion I may have caused. . Instructables uses the Lucene search engine. I'm still trying to figure a lot of this out (can't seem to get +/- to work right, for one). As I gain insights into what is going on, I will share them here.. This is a Work In Progress and may probably contains many errors. Use at your own risk, but I can't imagine any of this causing any harm - the worst it should do is generate an error message.. Some Lucene features may not work at Instructables - I'll erase those as I become aware of them.. If you know of any search tricks or tips, or can provide any insight as to how all this works with Instructables, please PM me (or leave a comment). I'm open to all suggestions.. The following is from Lucene Query Parser Syntax (copyright 2006 by The Apache Software Foundation. Distributed under Apache License, Version 2.0). About all I've done, so far (2008-06-01), is format it for Instructables. Any info I've added is noted in the text.. Note: I can't figure out how to escape a carat (formatting code for superscript), so I've substituted "/\" (slash + back-slash), except in the pre-formatted examples.Table Of ContentsOverviewTermsFieldsTerm Modifiers (Wildcard Searches, Fuzzy Searches, Proximity Searches, Range Searches, Boosting a Term)Boolean Operators (AND, +, NOT, -)Grouping (AKA parentheses - nacho)Field GroupingEscaping Special CharactersTerms. A query is broken up into terms and operators. There are two types of terms: Single Terms and Phrases.. A Single Term is a single word such as "test" or "hello".. A Phrase is a group of words surrounded by double quotes such as "hello dolly".Multiple terms can be combined together with Boolean operators to form a more complex query (see below).Fields. Lucene supports fielded data. When performing a search you can either specify a field, or use the default field. The field names and default field is implementation specific.. You can search any field by typing the field name followed by a colon ":" and then the term you are looking for.. As an example, let's assume a Lucene index contains two fields, title and text and text is the default field. If you want to find the document entitled "The Right Way" which contains the text "don't go this way", you can enter:title:"The Right Way" AND text:goortitle:"Do it right" AND right. Since text is the default field, the field indicator is not required.. Note: The field is only valid for the term that it directly precedes, so the querytitle:Do it rightwill only find "Do" in the title field. It will find "it" and "right" in the default field (in this case the text field).Need to get a list of fields used on Instructables. - nachoWildcard Searches. Lucene supports single and multiple character wildcard searches within single terms (not within phrase queries).. To perform a single character wildcard search use the "?" symbol.. To perform a multiple character wildcard search use the "*" symbol.. The single character wildcard search looks for terms that match that with the single character replaced. For example, to search for "text" or "test" you can use the search:te?t. Multiple character wildcard searches looks for 0 or more characters. For example, to search for test, tests or tester, you can use the search:test*. You can also use the wildcard searches in the middle of a term.te*t. Note: You cannot use a * or ? symbol as the first character of a search.? and * work just like DOS wildcards, except you cannot use them as the first character - nachoFuzzy Searches. Lucene supports fuzzy searches based on the Levenshtein Distance, or Edit Distance algorithm. To do a fuzzy search use the tilde, "~", symbol at the end of a Single word Term. For example to search for a term similar in spelling to "roam" use the fuzzy search:roam~. This search will find terms like foam and roams.. Starting with Lucene 1.9 an additional (optional) parameter can specify the required similarity. The value is between 0 and 1, with a value closer to 1 only terms with a higher similarity will be matched. For example:roam~0.8. The default that is used if the parameter is not given is 0.5.Proximity Searches. Lucene supports finding words are a within a specific distance away. To do a proximity search use the tilde, "~", symbol at the end of a Phrase. For example to search for a "apache" and "jakarta" within 10 words of each other in a document use the search:"jakarta apache"~10Range Searches. Range Queries allow one to match documents whose field(s) values are between the lower and upper bound specified by the Range Query. Range Queries can be inclusive or exclusive of the upper and lower bounds. Sorting is done lexicographically.mod_date:[20020101 TO 20030101]. This will find documents whose mod_date fields have values between 20020101 and 20030101, inclusive. Note that Range Queries are not reserved for date fields. You could also use range queries with non-date fields:title:{Aida TO Carmen}. This will find all documents whose titles are between Aida and Carmen, but not including Aida and Carmen.. Inclusive range queries are denoted by square brackets. Exclusive range queries are denoted by curly brackets.Boosting a Term. Lucene provides the relevance level of matching documents based on the terms found. To boost a term use the caret, "/\", symbol with a boost factor (a number) at the end of the term you are searching. The higher the boost factor, the more relevant the term will be.. Boosting allows you to control the relevance of a document by boosting its term. For example, if you are searching forjakarta apacheand you want the term "jakarta" to be more relevant boost it using the /\ symbol along with the boost factor next to the term. You would type:jakarta^4 apache. This will make documents with the term jakarta appear more relevant. You can also boost Phrase Terms as in the example:"jakarta apache"^4 "Apache Lucene". By default, the boost factor is 1. Although the boost factor must be positive, it can be less than 1 (e.g. 0.2)Boolean Operators. Boolean operators allow terms to be combined through logic operators. Lucene supports AND, "+", OR, NOT and "-" as Boolean operators(Note: Boolean operators must be ALL CAPS).The OR operator is the default conjunction operator. This means that if there is no Boolean operator between two terms, the OR operator is used. The OR operator links two terms and finds a matching document if either of the terms exist in a document. This is equivalent to a union using sets. The symbol || can be used in place of the word OR.. To search for documents that contain either "jakarta apache" or just "jakarta" use the query:"jakarta apache" jakartaor"jakarta apache" OR jakartaAND. The AND operator matches documents where both terms exist anywhere in the text of a single document. This is equivalent to an intersection using sets. The symbol && can be used in place of the word AND.. To search for documents that contain "jakarta apache" and "Apache Lucene" use the query:"jakarta apache" AND "Apache Lucene"+. The "+" or required operator requires that the term after the "+" symbol exist somewhere in a the field of a single document.. To search for documents that must contain "jakarta" and may contain "lucene" use the query:+jakarta luceneNOT. The NOT operator excludes documents that contain the term after NOT. This is equivalent to a difference using sets. The symbol ! can be used in place of the word NOT.. To search for documents that contain "jakarta apache" but not "Apache Lucene" use the query:"jakarta apache" NOT "Apache Lucene". Note: The NOT operator cannot be used with just one term. For example, the following search will return no results:NOT "jakarta apache"-. The "-" or prohibit operator excludes documents that contain the term after the "-" symbol.. To search for documents that contain "jakarta apache" but not "Apache Lucene" use the query:"jakarta apache" -"Apache Lucene"Can anyone compare/contrast AND/+ and NOT/-? - nachoGrouping. Lucene supports using parentheses to group clauses to form sub queries. This can be very useful if you want to control the boolean logic for a query.. To search for either "jakarta" or "apache" and "website" use the query:(jakarta OR apache) AND website. This eliminates any confusion and makes sure you that website must exist and either term jakarta or apache may exist.Field Grouping. Lucene supports using parentheses to group multiple clauses to a single field.. To search for a title that contains both the word "return" and the phrase "pink panther" use the query:title:(+return +"pink panther")Escaping Special Characters. Lucene supports escaping special characters that are part of the query syntax. The current list special characters are+ - && || ! ( ) { } [] /\ " ~ * ? : \. To escape these character use the \ before the character. For example to search for (1+1):2 use the query:\(1\+1\)\:2. That's it. All corrections and/or clarifications are welcomed.

Topic by NachoMahma 


Came a across a "Group" bug and I have a couple humble "Group" suggestions while I'm here.

I was recently checking up on a group I started a little while back and found that I couldn't see any of the popular Instructables in the group, and when clicking "view all" the "No Instructables yet!" message came up when there are plenty Ibles added (they are still available in the Recent Entries panel). I've attached pictures of both situations for clarification. I did try IE and Firefox to see if it was a browser issue, unfortunately it was the same in both. I tried refreshing the browsers a few times too. Should I wait a couple days to see if it'll clear up or is this a legit issue? In passing, a few suggestions that I had in regards to groups are: In the future, will we be able to see some more group functionality, like messaging all members as an example? Is there any way we could get updates on the group like: new members added, ibles added, and discussions posted? Would we be able to access the group(s) that we create from our ibles profiles [a quick link with a photo, mebe under the You or Instructables tab]? I was also wondering if when you click the "Groups" shortcut the search category could be defaulted to groups as well? The reason why I have made these suggestions is that whenever I want to check on what's happening with my group I always seem to have to go the long way around to get to it. The path I take is as follows: select group on my shorcuts-> write my group name in the search bar -> select groups from the search category and then hit enter to find the group. I can also go to You from the shortcuts -> hit the settings tab -> select groups -> then click on the group but there doesn't seem to be a faster way in. I hope no one takes my comments/suggestions the wrong way because I'm definitely a huge fan of Instructables and am extremely thankful for the entire concept. Instructables is a great site and I may be me overlooking a faster way and a few simple solutions to my other suggestions, so I'm hoping someone can correct me/point me in the right direction, or let me in on the future of "Group" improvements. Oh yes and here's a PS: I'm not going to lie, If these suggestions sound facebookish...well....they are...plus a few added ideas to make these groups better than Facebook's :)

Topic by Skater_j10   |  last reply


What would be the VERY BEST way for me to TRANSITION into my newly adopted off-grid, survivalist, subsistence lifestyle? Answered

A 16'x16'x16', 256-square foot, A-frame cabin on an elevated 3' concrete paver floating DekBlock foundation with a 3'x 6'8" front flush door, one rear 48"x 48"horizontal slider window, and another upper 24"x 24" horizontal slider window for the sleeping loft.I'm thinking that one of those standard U.S. Stove designs might provide just a little too much heat for my needs up in the Copper River Basin region of ALASKA's rural backcountry. Who knows? What are your suggestions for the above described "habitat"? Where can I find the best deals for my 256-square foot space? (Heating/ventilation-wise, we're speaking of subzero temperatures and heavy snowfall, so, I don't believe that "opening a window" is a practical solution for me if it gets too hot and smokey inside my A-frame.) Plus, I've done the HEATING ESTIMATE for the A-frame I'm going to build and the numbers come out to about a 620,000 btuh (heat loss) for the new dimensions I'm finally settling on: 16'x16'x16' or 256sq.ft. This calculation is for -50 degrees F with cold floor, ceiling, and glass surfaces taken into account. (Insulation isn't a factor this early in the design.) "Wow!" I thought at first. "A 620,000 btuh HEAT LOSS! I reckon you can never have too much stove even for an A-frame design." (Being that A-frame cabins retain heat so well, and that my sleeping loft may get really HOT in the Winter, this was a preliminary concern.) Foundation:(4) 8"- diameter cardboard cylindrical concrete forms for pin-point piers;(4) 84" reinforcement rods for pin-point concrete forms;(16) Bricks for base of footing;(24) Layout stakes;(8) 5' batter boards;(1) Spool of wire for joining the two 14" reinforcement rods for each footing base;(1) Spool of line for marking building layout lines;(?) Bags of cement;(?) Bags of gravel;(?) Bags of sand...*A few questions about the amount of concrete needed for the four footings and the four concrete piers: "How much concrete will be needed for four 8"-deep concrete footings poured into four 16"-diameter, 44"-deep holes with each containing four bricks and the four reinforcement rod supports? How much concrete will be needed to fill four 8"-diameter pin-point concrete pier forms to an estimated height of about 80"-inches? How many total bags of cement, gravel and sand (aggregate) will my foundation require? Most importantly, how much will it all cost?"A-Frame Structural Triangle (Theoretical Dimensions):Sides = 16'Base = 16'Angles opposite sides = 60 degreesAngle opposite base = 60 degreesArea = 110.85125168441 sq. ft.Perimeter = 48 ft.Framing:(2) 2"x 10"x 16' girders;(12) 2"x 6"x 12' rafters;(6) 2"x 6"x 8' joists;(4) 2"x 4"x 4' collar beams;(10) 4'x 4' plywood sheets for subflooring;(2) 16' framing braces for structural support against wind damage;(?) 3200-square feet of roof/wall sheathing material for exterior surface areas...*A few questions about the amount of roof/wall sheathing material needed to cover the 3200-square foot exterior surface area: "How much exterior sheathing will I need? How much will it cost? I understand that metal sheathing is preferred in the Copper River Basin region for its snow-shedding ability, so, given everything I've just said, what are my options for the A-frame I recently designed?"My total approach to this whole subsistence lifestyle (i.e. living off the land within a small, confined space) is probably all wrong. I understand that I might need to change my complete "mindset" and adopt a sort of NAUTICAL (or MARITIME) theme with my decor, furnishings and appliances.Since I'm really getting into boats anyway (my one chosen option for escaping the bitterly harsh winters of ALASKA's COPPER RIVER BASIN if all else fails), I feel that marine stoves, composting toilets, and an overall nautical aspect in the "finish work" might help me cope since sailboat cabins tend to be tiny, and I may need to transplant a lot of what I have to my seagoing vessel, "Vera Essie".www.geocities.com/wduncanbinns

Question by Herr VOLKMAR   |  last reply


Raspberry pi 2 processing capability?

Hearing the announcement of the new latest and greatest Raspberry Pi 2, now a backwards compatible computer with a 0.9GHz ARM Cortex-A7 quad core processor and 1GB of LPDDR2 SDRAM, I was wondering of the feasibility of using it as a very cheap and basic solution for a simple computer for my lab. Currently, I am using a compaq presario C700 Pentium Dual-Core laptop, that has been maxed out with 2GB 800MHz kingston RAM, and is running Kubuntu. I should also not the HDD has been replaced with a 120GB one from an old and broken Xbox. I do not like it much anymore, because although the performance of it is acceptable, the screen is a bit low res, at 1280x800, it's pretty dark (or at least until it 'warms up' to full brightness), it had a major scratch on the screen, (no idea how it got there) and after buffing it out with many methods, including with an eraser, the area has became discolored, like a portion of the screen has higher gamut and brightness, and lower black levels. :( Oh well. The main killer for it is that it's form factor. It is too big, heavy, the screen is too small, and it is very cumbersome to use far away in the corner of my workbench. Of course being a laptop, the 'base' of it is fixed to the screen, and to move it closer to me takes away lots of valuable space on my really messy bench. I mostly use it to research part numbers, get schematics off of google, watch YT videos, log data from serial ports (including my UNI-T multimeter with basic data-logging capabilities), and stuff like that. I may have as many as 20 tabs open at a time, which did tax my old compaq C700 when it had 1GB of RAM, but that was likely due to a memory leak issue with chrome, since I have the SAME issue with my main desktop, with 8GB of DDR3 RAM. If the video by MAKE is anything to judge, it looks just as powerful, as this embedded video is large! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZz8MW3DSqA My hope is to replace it with a raspberry pi, and be able to use it for these basic operations w/ a old LCD monitor which can be picked up off of craigslist for cheap. Maybe I can even find one in the dump :P. Maybe I can configure the GPIO pins to be COM and parallel ports, w/ clock, Tx, Rx, and everything else! That way an external FTDI chip and using the limited number of USBs is not an issue. Is that possible?

Question by -max-   |  last reply


Raspberry pi 2 processing capability?

Hearing the announcement of the new latest and greatest Raspberry Pi 2, now a backwards compatible computer with a 0.9GHz ARM Cortex-A7 quad core processor and 1GB of LPDDR2 SDRAM, I was wondering of the feasibility of using it as a very cheap and basic solution for a simple computer for my lab. Currently, I am using a compaq presario C700 Pentium Dual-Core laptop, that has been maxed out with 2GB 800MHz kingston RAM, and is running Kubuntu. I should also not the HDD has been replaced with a 120GB one from an old and broken Xbox. I do not like it much anymore, because although the performance of it is acceptable, the screen is a bit low res, at 1280x800, it's pretty dark (or at least until it 'warms up' to full brightness), it had a major scratch on the screen, (no idea how it got there) and after buffing it out with many methods, including with an eraser, the area has became discolored, like a portion of the screen has higher gamut and brightness, and lower black levels. :( Oh well. The main killer for it is that it's form factor. It is too big, heavy, the screen is too small, and it is very cumbersome to use far away in the corner of my workbench. Of course being a laptop, the 'base' of it is fixed to the screen, and to move it closer to me takes away lots of valuable space on my really messy bench. I mostly use it to research part numbers, get schematics off of google, watch YT videos, log data from serial ports (including my UNI-T multimeter with basic data-logging capabilities), and stuff like that. I may have as many as 20 tabs open at a time, which did tax my old compaq C700 when it had 1GB of RAM, but that was likely due to a memory leak issue with chrome, since I have the SAME issue with my main desktop, with 8GB of DDR3 RAM. If the video by MAKE is anything to judge, it looks just as powerful, as this embedded video is large! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pZz8MW3DSqA My hope is to replace it with a raspberry pi, and be able to use it for these basic operations w/ a old cheap LCD monitor which can be picked up off of craigslist for cheap. Generally old 4:3 monitors go for next to nothing. Maybe I can even find one in the dump :P. Maybe I can configure the GPIO pins to be COM ports, w/ clock and everything else! That way an external FTDI chip and using the limited number of USBs is not an issue. Is that possible?

Question by -max-   |  last reply


Choosing drive motors for kids riding toy

I'm building  "robot horse" for my daughter, and have the metal frame mostly complete.  The plan for locomotion is to mount reversible powered 6" wheels to the outside of each hoof, and steer tank-style. My biggest challenge is finding reasonably priced, reasonably powerful drive motors for each wheel.  My issues are  1)  I'm inexperienced at specing dc motors.       A) I'm not real sure how to translate published specs into real world motion.  I don't know exactly how much power it takes to get this reliably moving over rough ground to a top speed of around 1 mph.  I also don't have a good sense of much voltage you can pump into a DC motors.  (IOW, should I be able to push 2 x the rated voltage for a quarter second to get it moving? Will the motors naturally increase their amperage at a constant voltage (and thus power) as they are resisted by torque?)  How much power will starting from a stop take?  What about a slight uphill slope?     B)  I'm not sure what form-factor is best:  Gear motor?  Gear motor with final drive belt?  I would like to use worm-gear motors, as I think it would be safest if the wheels didn't move when unpowered. 2)  Hunting around supplier web-sites, I see lots of $20ish gear motors that use 5-20W of power.  Great price, but would 4 of them make enough power?  (See #1A above)  Also, I see lots of fractional HP motors for >$100 that would unquestionably be strong enough, but would cost more than the project justifies.  I found very little in between.  Are there motors and gear boxes that could power this at a reasonable price?   Relevant clarifications and details: 1)  The horse is about 40" high at it's withers (shoulder) 2)  Frame is made of 1/2" square tube steel. 3)  Normal rider + vehicle will be about 150 lbs.  However, unquestionably, larger kids (or multiple small kids) will at some point hop on it and try to ride it.  At 250 lbs. rider+vehicle weight it doesn't have to go fast, but shouldn't burn up the motors. 4)  It'll be powered by a lipo battery pack that shouldn't have any issues with 20A+ max currents and can be sized as needed for voltage. 5)  I'd like to keep the motors and gears <$200 total, if possible. 6)  "Rough ground" = flat grassy turf or reasonably smooth gravel. 7)  Motors need to be reversible. Can anyone lend some perspective on what type of motors to buy for this?  How much power/torque should I look for?  Any advantages/disadvantages of any particular gearing style for this application? I am assuming that motors on each wheel are the way to go, but if there are any other power transmission schemes that would work better, I'm all ears.

Topic by SvdSinner   |  last reply


Music box concept + Guitar guts = Player Guitar

Don't know if this specifically needs to go in music but, whatever. for christmas i made my brother a (somewhat poorly constructed) lap steel guitar. seriously, it wasn't that good, but it worked and it was more of a "can i do this project" kind of thing, plus he has a friend who is an ACTUAL luthier so he's going to "redo it".... anywho, i made said guitar using zither pins for the tuning pegs and it got me to thinking. with the zither pins you could theoretcially have a guitar string of any length and use the pin to set that string to any given tone on any particular scale (say the functional length of the string was only 3 inches....you could still theoretically set the tune on that string to a semi permanent desired tone). so, with a bunch of short lengths of various guage strings you could create a guitar music box (probably more of a music barrel but, whatever). now, normal music box has the tone pins (not sure what they're called...but the tuned slivers of metal) stationary along one (or more) fixed planes and a revolving "picking" drum that strikes each pin to make the tone in the order that it needs to be in a piece of music. for whatever reason. so, combine these two ideas and you get a player guitar, or a guitar based music box, whatever. so, obviously this could be acoustic or electric. my personal preference is to lean towards electric, so that's where the question comes in. a normal guitar pickup has 4, 6, or whatever magnets fixed within it's coils so that you can pickup the signal from 4, 6, or whatever strings that are strung paralell(ish) across the guitar. for the music box concept to work (as opposed to a true player guitar that plays across the strings) the individual string pieces (that are all individually tuned etc) wouldn't be able to be parallell to each other like a normal guitar. they'd either be in line on the same plane or spaced out in odd ways (i've got an odd concept for the actual construction...where the strings do the moving and the "strummers" stay put). so, does a single magnet pickup exist? that could just be wired up into the rest of a normal electric guitar's circuitry? or would i have to build such a thing from scratch (and subsequently how would i do that)? would a normal electric guitar's circuitry be able to work the same with more than 6 pickups in play (thinking of a cheap one from a pawn shop...that's what i built the slide guitar from)? also, taking song suggestions and subsequent individual string tuning plans *i do know that there are "better" ways to make a self playing guitar that uses the normal guitar form factor and robotics and such....but this seems more fun. plus, i might make it into a wind powerd thing...electric guitar windchimes anyone?

Topic by crapflinger   |  last reply