Hi I have a gamepad. And I want to drive a car with it. I uploaded photos. I want to use but they arent button what I will use it
Topic by SelimErkan | last reply
I wanted to make a general purpose VR game pad and I thought that if I made a Bluetooth mouse using an HID module then I could get it to press a specific coordinate when a button was pressed. I run into the problem, though, of multiple button presses. The best solution I could come up with was to have it quickly switch between the coordinates but then I can't have it hold down the buttons. How do commercial Bluetooth game pads work and how could I replicate this using Arduino?
Question by slaveboy2000
Stuff like flash drives, computer parts, headphones, joysticks, mice (For computers) keyboards, gamepads, XBOX 360 controllers, etc...
Question by ashannon1 | last reply
Welll like i said in the title id like to know how to make a ps2 pc gamepad without downloading anything
Topic by nc527 | last reply
I know I can use the wired gamepad with the PS2 to USB adapter cable http://www.amazon.com/Playstation-2-PC-USB-Gamepad-Converter/dp/B000F6BGXY but has anyone used it to connect their wireless PS2 gamepads ? will I need drivers for it?
Question by auldthief | last reply
Hello there ! I've been trying to get through this for weeks... many projects are quite similar but I have never found one that answers my problem. As the title says, I want to turn my Raspeberry Pi 0 W into a bluetooth HID gamepad. I figured out that another way is possible. Indeed you can create your own bluetooth HID device with either the Adafruit BlueFruit Ez-Key or a the RN-42 module (or even the HC-05 with the RN-42 firmware). But I want neither of these solutions. I want to use my Raspberry Pi 0 W in a way that it will be recognized as a bluetooth gamepad. Creating the gamepad is fine, I used the GPIO of the Pi for the inputs. But once the gamepad is physically done, how to make my Pi appear as a gamepad ? I've seen that you can use hciconfig in the terminal of Raspbian in order to change the class of the Pi and set it as a gamepad but I must admit that I didn't understand everything. And it's important that it appears as a gamepad and not as a keyboard. In a nutshell, I would like to turn my old wired nes controller in a bluetooth one, and play on another Pi where Recalbox is installed. (That's why you must appear as a gamepad and not as a keyboard, because Recalbox only works with bluetooth gamepads). Thank you in advance if someone takes his time to help me with this because I can't take it anymore haha !
Topic by frowngo
Hey, Intstructable-ers. I have a question (Obiovusly): I just bought a Interact GamePad for my Playstation original from a yard sale. Now, I've bought many Playstation controllers from yard sales before and opened them up to fix simple problems or clean them, but I have no clue what the heck is wrong with this one. It worked last night, and I was able to play a couple of games with it. When I woke up in the morning to play again, nothing. na-da. The controller just, -ahem-, pooted out. Yes, I tried playing with a official Playstation controlller and another 3rd-party controller, both of which work perfectly, so it's not the controller port. I was going to ask this question on Yahoo! Answers, but half the people on there are just looking for points and don't know anything. Don't let me down, Instructables community! P.S. If it helps any, the circuit board inside the controller are almost the same design as an official Sony Playstation Controller (Not Dual Analog/ Dual Shock). The only difference is that this controller board is much simpler.
Question by videogamemaster | last reply
Hi guys! this is my first post here at Instructables :D I really hope someone will be able to help me! Basically the problem is described in the attached image. To be short, we have: - 1x smartphone (Android) - 1x bluetooth module (HC05 with breakout board GW-040 4 pin SPI) - some buttons and arrows... I've already managed to get the HC05 recognized by Windows as a gamepad (modifying the tag using AT commands). The real problem is that i'm stuck with that. I would like to understand how i can connect some buttons (let's say four) that will actually behave like arrows while playing. As far as i understood i need to use the PIO pins but unfortunately my knowledge stops here. Theoretically the code behind this is simple: when the button is pressed the circuit is close and a signal is received by the HC05 who sends the corresponding command via bluetooth. So if the up arrow is pressed, that pin will receive 1 (closed circuit) and the HC05 will send "UP_Arrow" as an instruction to the smartphone. The problem is how do i write down this code and put it into the HC05? since the gamepad tag is "universal" i guess there is some default code for things like this. I think it's the same thing they did with the MOGA... I also read that i could need a SPI-USB Download (something like this ) to use the BlueSuite, that seems like the software needed for this operation. Thanks for any advice!! P.S.: Some useful links i found while searching.. http://dextersstory.tistory.com/3 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/10 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/11 http://dextersstory.tistory.com/16 http://www.martyncurrey.com/arduino-with-hc-05-bluetooth-module-at-mode/ https://developer.mbed.org/users/edodm85/notebook/HC-05-bluetooth/ https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/rn-42-ds.pdf http://cdn.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Wireless/Bluetooth/RN-HID-User-Guide-v1.0r.pdf http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/bluetooth_cr_UG-v1.0r.pdf
Topic by HarryValenti | last reply
After seeing the Game-Gripper for various keypad smartphones, I wanted to have a gamepad for my phone as well. but i own a Motorola Droid Pro from Verizon and the screen and keyboard aren't right for some decent widescreen gaming. I dont think the game-gripper company makes pads for this kind of phone, so does anyone have any ideas on how i could either get or make a gamepad for this phone?
Question by EngineerJakit | last reply
I got a logitech precision gamepad from Target. It was entertaining for a while, until I wondered if it is possible to replace the D-Pad to a Control Stick?
Question by Novelty
I wanted to make a general purpose VR gamepad using Arduino and I thought that if I made a Bluetooth mouse using an HID module then I could get it to press a specific coordinate when a button was pressed. I run into the problem, though, of multiple button presses. The best solution I could come up with was to have it quickly switch between the coordinates but then I can't have it hold down the buttons. How do commercial Bluetooth gamepads work and how could I replicate this using Arduino?
Question by slaveboy2000
Hi. My ps2 to pc adapter has 5V directly from usb, and my logitech wireless gamepad needs 3.5, if I plug it now the light in the reciever stays blinking and no signal but it works correctly with wired controllers, so can anyone tell me what do I need to lower the voltage from the ps2 adapter to 3.5 so my wireless controller work.? Thanks.
Question by Silenux | last reply
Hello Frnds! Yesterday when i was playing " FARCRY 4" a very cool idea struck my mind. But i unable to figure out its proper design and circuitry. So i need ur help. As u all know that playing First Person Games using a gamepad is not so easy and also it doesn't give a realistic feel. So i thought to hack a gamepad and embed a gyrosensor/ accelerometer to control the x, y coordinates of the gun's aim. I have made a basic design of how it will look using an old SNES gamepad's cabinet. The left part of the gamepad is freely rotatable upto 90 degrees clockwise and vice versa. See the given gif animation and then read below. Moreover the LT, LB, RT, and RB buttons will obstruct the action of rotating so we can relocate it to another place (SEE the Image). They can be used a Fire, Reload, Secondary Fire and Throwing Grenade during the game. Lets imagine that we are playing any First Person Game using the gamepad. There is no enemy around us and we are just roaming, discovering. Then suddenly an enemy comes in front of us. We have to kill it but aiming with gamepad analogue stick is tough. Then with our GUNPAD we just have to take the device in "Gun Mode", Aim and Shoot. The enemy's dead and we are safe. Then we can take the GUNPAD back in "Pad Mode" and use the directional buttons to move. SOUNDS COOL! Now if you have any ideas plz comment or if you can make one plz upload an instructable. Kindly Give my name when performing the latter. Thanks!
Question by SnehilSensei | last reply
This is related to my last Instructable. https://www.instructables.com/id/cheap-USB-slotcar-timer-interface/ Sometimes when I install the track piece I am using on a fast straight I am missing laps. The problem could be USB polling rates in Windows 8. I found no way to increase polling rates to 500 or 1000Hz instead of the aprox. 180Hz. First I don't know if the car triggers at all when I go over the contact very fast or if the USB polling is the problem. i can try to wire a LED in and see if it is flashing up when the counter is not working. My thought is that I could increase the signal length when the car triggers the button. Any ideas how this could be done? My second problem is related. I also got a IR-gap-sensor. I understand that I need some kind of relais to make it trigger my USB gamepad buttons? Please help an electronically uneducated guy! I have the feeling that the answers to my questions are probably not that hard anyways.
Topic by heavyweather | last reply
I need to make a touch sensitive (capacitive) button that triggers a key. I got a capacitive demo board from qprox that should be fine...I touch it and I can hook it up to an LED that gets lit. But if I try to put the wires from a button on a gamepad to the out of the demo board, the button is constantly in the "Down" state. I think I remember reading somewhere about a polarity reverser or something so that it reverses the On and Off state, but not sure what I need. Also, the demo board is powered via a small watch battery which is perhaps conflicting with the power from the USB? I'm not quite sure the best way to do this. I think I can power the demo board using the USB power rather than the battery. I also would like some advice on creating the Capacitor to a 3" button surface are that goes through 1/4" glass. I've got a resistor that upped the Qs so that it works through glass, but not sure how to make it fit to a desired "button" shape.
Question by superjames | last reply
Hello! I'm new at Instructables. Plz give reply to my question. During childhood I used to have a game console just like the NES, SNES, etc. I don't own it now but i still have its gamepad and cassettes. I want to use it with my pc as a HID device to play games. But i don't know that which console i had and so I don't know the type of communication its gamepad had with the console (serial, analogue, or digital). So i'm unable to use it with my pc. It has a DB 9 plug but not all the 9 pin holes are accomodated. Only five of them are, ie, it has only five wires. I have given the images of the cassette ( that contained the roms) and the plug (DB9) and the internal circuitry. As you can see there is no complex circuit in it. It just has a big black dot which contains the program of the game pad. This gamepad used to perform 8 different actions ( up, down, left, right, select, start, A, and B). The rest of the buttons are just like a turbo button for A and B buttons. If you know which console it belongs to, plz tell me and if you also know the way to hook it up to a pc the it is much better. Thanks in advance.
Question by SnehilSensei | last reply
I would like to take my SNES controller and make a PC gamepad out of it to play my old SNES games through a ROM. I know retrolink has similar products but I was not satisfied with it and would rather build my own. If it is possible please explain how. If it isn't please explain why not. THANKS!
Question by UUsseerrNNaammee00 | last reply
My Logitech controller shorted out, and I have this PS3 controller already, which has that USB cable... But I still want to be able to use it on PS3 later.
Question by hishealer | last reply
Flexible Electroluminescent Display Recirculating Gravy Fountain USB NES Gamepad Easy Backpacking Stove Spiced Pumpkin Cheesecake Letter from the Editor Glowing LED Tube DIY Thanksgiving Enter the RM 100 Contest Inner Tube Skull Purse Around the Room Marble Track Electronic Beehive Scale Xbox Kinect TV Mount DIY CMOS RAM Memory Guitar Neck Repair Blender Fish Tank Bottle Cap Antenna Protector Instructables.com - 82 2nd St. - San Francisco, CA
Topic by randofo
So I got another Nes controller. The gamepad sticker is missing and now it's just grey. Any ideas to make one or what to do with it?
Question by DistantOverture | last reply
Wondering if anyone has toyed around with converting a USB joystick, (perferrably, the Saitek model P2500) into any type of HID MIDI controller for PC?
Question by BLAQCAESAR
I would like to get a USB Host Shield, but, for gamepads, it might not be a perfect idea to get a DualShock 3. Has anyone tried the F710 with the new XInput code?
Question by VirtualBoxer | last reply
So, I've been on a project where i am trying to use a generic bluetooth gamepad to control dc motors through a HC05 bluetooth module connected to an arduino. I have no idea on where to start. I did some research about it but there dosent seem to be much information thats appropriate for this project. here is what im using now: -ipega bluetooth controller -arduino mega 2560 -HC-05 bluetooth module
Topic by thomasmanman | last reply
I've been looking for a diagram all over the internet, but I just can't find one. I'm looking to adapt a PlayStation 2 controller to usb, to act as a gamepad for my computer. ( I do lots of emulation. ) I was thinking I would just have to replace the current connector with a usb end, does anybody have a diagram or some wisdom to share?
Question by nickodemus | last reply
Sorry, we just can't find that one! - We're sorry, the URL https://www.instructables.com/id/Party-game-gamepad-game-development/ is either incorrect or no longer available. Maybe you are looking for one of the following Instructables below. is the message displayed when someone who is not logged in visits my ible..... i published the ible a day ago but the problem has not been resolved:( can anyone please help solve this? thanks, KnutKnackebröd
Topic by knutknackebröd | last reply
I want to modify a PC steering wheel to be real. I want to put a signal blinker handle, by solder the pins on 2 buttons from the gamepad. Can i do without arduino or any PIC programmer a thing like the signal blinking from the car? I want on a PC steering wheel to put a handle for signal blinking. How? I solder the handle pins to the front panel (the buttons from the PC steering wheel, i suspend 2 buttons, like 2 and 4). Can i do a simple circuit when i commute the handle to right for exemple the signal goes once and when i commute back to none the signal goes none. I dont know how to explain. When the handle is on right position the semnal from him must go once, when the handle is switch, the signal from the handle to transmit the signal again, because i solder the pins to buttons command. Can it be done with something like in the photo? http://i60.tinypic.com/2crnf5j.png And here is something like my handle: http://i60.tinypic.com/sxd6cz.jpg
Question by danyelo | last reply
I have a media center remote keyboard and media center remote.They use a USB reciever attached to the PC. Can I connect an xbox 360 wireless game controller to my PC using this receiver? Both are Microsoft products, so can i expect them to work together without spending any more money? Or do I RELUCTANTLY have to buy the xbox 360 receiver too? :(
Question by auldthief | last reply
I saw on BBC tech news of a mind control headset made by Emotiv which claims to be a way of controlling on a computer using your mind.The technology has been used for years in helping severely disabled people communicate but this seems to be one of the first times that this technology has gone mainstream.But the question is: Is this just a novelty item?And more importantly: Will I be able to play anything on it other than that Myst-like demo that they supply?And if this product is really going to hail the end of the gamepad then what will YOU use it for?Released next year![Here's the link: http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/technology/7254078.stm]
Topic by bobulator | last reply
Hi, um... Man, i wish there were more cross- platform games out there, cause i want to play the new titles "Need 4 Speed: Shift" and "Halo 3 ODST" on my PC, but they only made'em for the game consoles, not pc. (Plus i can't afford an Xbox). I know there's some xbox emulators like CxBx, (which i have), but i need one thats easy to use, and lets you customize all the controls for the game, so i can use a wireless gamepad on them.
Question by SMHLonWlf | last reply
I bought some of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IF6URO/ref=ox_ya_oh_product and would like to wire up a usb gamepad to detect the siren as a button press. I'd assume this should be very simple the relay will connect to the siren speaker. I can then write an app to email/text message me if the sensor detects water on my kitchen floors.I'd like to know what kind of relay to use (how much power, an exact one would be nice), I just need a momentary circuit close (similar to pressing a key).I'm a programmer with a limited knowledge on circuits.
Topic by sylentmode
So I discovered my Samsung Galaxy S3 supports USB gamepads. Well long story short, I quickly hacked apart an old original Xbox controller, replaced its 10 foot xbox cable with a 1 inch USB cable, and it works GREAT in most gamepad-supported Android games like Dead Trigger and Shadowgun. The next obvious move was to make a holder to attach my phone to the gamepad, to have a portable gaming device, like an nVidia Shield. Now I know commercial solutions exist, like the Gameklip, but they're all designed for the PS3 controller, which I don't have. So I've attached pictures of my first two versions. The first picture showing the regular coat hanger wire wrapped in black electrical tape. It held the phone just fine, but it was butt ugly, because I used electrical tape to protect the phone from the steel coat hanger wire. So I made a second one (2nd picture), using a rubber/plastic coated coat hanger, thinking it would look better, because I wouldn't need to wrap it in electrical tape. Well the problem is that I'm so horribly bad at bending wire, and at planning, and measuring, that I had to make so many corrections, that it too looks butt ugly. It's a completely different design than the first one, for starters. I can never think of how to design these things on paper. I always just get a rough idea in my head, and then play it by ear as I go along. But because steel coat hanger wire is so incredibly tough, every time I try to bend it with pliers, or a vice grip, I end up damaging the nice plastic coating, making it look ugly. Multiply that by the number of times I had to make corrections, and well, you can see the result. The second design is the one I'd like to stick with, however. Mechanically speaking, it is perfect. Two nubs on the bottom, and a nub on the left and right sides, hold the phone in place using gravity and friction. Then the whole thing uses spring-tension to compress the left and right nubs inwards, squeezing the phone in place, but without letting these nubs get in the way of the USB port or the headphone port. One can adjust the width and tension of these left and right nubs, just by squeezing or stretching them apart, to fit different sized phones and cases. Finally, two support legs are left at the end of the wire to easily place the whole thing on a table. Both versions are attached to the controller in the same way: I started with two loops, as small as I could make them, right next to each other. Then I just bolt the whole thing to the controller through those two loops, and two holes I've drilled in the controller's memory slot. It's an incredible pain in the ass to try and get the nut and washer in the tiny amount of space in that memory card slot, but I managed to do it twice. I want to build a third, good looking one. So now I've gone out and invested in some proper, straight steel wire (of the same thickness and stiffness as the coat hanger wire), and some heat-shrink tubing to protect the phone from the steel. But I need advice on how to do this properly, so that it looks good. The only way I can use the heat-shrink tubing, is to put it on FIRST, BEFORE bending the wire. I couldn't possibly imagine how to do it AFTER bending the wire. But the problem is, I'm worried that my vice grips/pliers will damage it the same way they damaged the plastic coating of the coat hanger. Any suggestions/tips would be greatly appreciated!
Question by moeburn | last reply
So I found an old Quickshot (QS-177) and an old Edgeport/1 USB-to-DB9 serial converter, and was wondering if I could either set up the controller as a serial device, get custom drivers for the Edgeport, or could rewire the converter somehow to make it work like a game controller. I also happen to have a PS1-style, cheap little USB controller that I was thinking of gutting and connecting to (the disassembled remains of) the Edgeport, resulting in a USB joystick that thinks it's a gamepad.
Question by Maxaxle | last reply
What is wrong with this code? I have it open this program: @echo off mode 18,4 title Actions :1 cls echo (B) (Y) echo (A) (X) echo. set /p a= echo %a%> link.txt goto 1 And this prgram is supposed to read the input. Basically, the first one sends a message to a TXT file. Then this program picks up the message from the TXT file and turns it into a variable. @echo off title Whack-a-Mole set a=10 set mole=0 set time=0 set timeend=0 :Start cls set /a a=%a%-1 echo This game uses the "Actions" gamepad unit. echo. echo. echo Hit the most moles to win! echo. echo Game starts in %a% seconds. ping localhost -n 2 > nul if %a% equ 0 goto Game goto Start :Game if exist Actions.bat start Actions.bat cls echo Press "A" on the gamepad unit to swing your bat. Press "B" to stop. echo. if not exist link.txt ( echo The file "link.txt" could not be found. This game cannot be played without it. ping localhost -n 4 > nul ) if not exist Actions.bat ( echo The file "Actions.bat" could not be found. This game cannot be played without it. ping localhost -n 4 > nul ) ping localhost -n 4 > nul :GameBegin cls echo Ready... ping localhost -n 4 > nul cls echo GO! ping localhost -n 2 > nul :Mole1 cls set /a time=%random%/7000 echo Reaction Time:%timeend% echo Moles Hit:%mole% echo. echo [__][__][__][__] echo [__][__][__][__] echo [__][__][__][__] ping localhost -n 2 > nul set a=< link.txt echo 00> link.txt if /i "%a%"=="a" goto gameover if /i "%a%"=="b" goto gameover if /i "%a%"=="00" goto gameover set a= ping localhost -n %time% > nul goto Mole2 :Mole2 cls set /a time=%random%/7000 echo Reaction Time:%timeend% echo Moles Hit:%mole% echo. echo [__][__((O.O))_] echo [__][__/:_][__] echo [__][/ [__][__] ping localhost -n 2 > nul set a=< link.txt echo 00> link.txt if /i "%a%"=="a" ( set /a mole=%mole%+1 goto Time ) if /i "%a%"=="b" goto gameover if /i "%a%"=="00" goto gameover set a= ping localhost -n %time% > nul goto gameover :Time set timestart=%time:~2% set timeend=%timestart:~4,2% if /i %timeend% equ 01 set timeend=1 if /i %timeend% equ 02 set timeend=2 if /i %timeend% equ 03 set timeend=3 if /i %timeend% equ 04 set timeend=4 if /i %timeend% equ 05 set timeend=5 if /i %timeend% equ 06 set timeend=6 if /i %timeend% equ 07 set timeend=7 if /i %timeend% equ 08 set timeend=8 if /i %timeend% equ 09 set timeend=9 set /a timeend= %timeend%+2+%random:~1,1% if %timeend% geq 60 ( goto gameover ) goto Mole1 :gameover cls echo You got %mole% moles. echo Your fastest time was %timeend%. echo. echo Type in "B" on the gamepad unit to go back to the main menu. :input set a=< link.txt if /i "%a%"=="b" goto Start goto input It may look kinda wierd here, but that's because of instructables, not me. Anyways, it goes through the animations and doesn't even notice that there are any IF commands. Where did I go wrong? EDIT: Figured it out. Corrected: SET /P a=< link.txt Forgot the /p!
Question by TheBatchies | last reply
The USnooBie is a microcontroller kit that does not require any sort of AVR programmer or USB-to-serial converters to load and run compiled code. It's hardware design allows the user to develop low cost USB devices with Atmel's AVR ATmega microcontrollers. It can also be used to develop projects which are not USB devices. It is even compatible with Arduino. No AVR programmer is needed and no USB-to-serial converter is needed to bootload. The bootloader uses native USB and works with AVRDUDE. This makes USnooBie the fastest and cheapest way to get started programming AVR microcontrollers AVRDUDE is cross platform, so it works on Windows, Linux, and Macs. Make V-USB based USB devices using AVR microcontrollers, great for making keyboards, mice, joysticks, gamepads, and other neat gadgets. Of course, you can also make non-USB projects as well because USnooBie uses the same microcontroller as Arduino. Compatible with Arduino. Thin design for use with breadboards or plugs straight into a USB port. Operating voltage is selectable between 5V and 3.3V by a jumper. Protection diode and self-resetting fuse protects your computer from over voltage, reverse current, and short circuits. Buy one from Seeed Studio Instructions and Tutorials on the Official Website
Topic by frank26080115 | last reply
I have an old joystick and game-pad for the PC that i need to be able to run on my newer computer, i got them both from abandoned storage bins, and they use 15 pin connectors, but unfortunately my PC does not have those connections, i have recently started to try my hand at video-game programming and i either need a new joystick, an XBOX 360 controller, or a way to hook the controllers i have up to USB for as cheap or free as possible. i would like any help people can give me. P.S. And yes, i know about the adapters @ http://www.amazon.com/Gameport-Adapter-Joysticks-Controllers-Gamepads-Pc/dp/B0024ZWL4M/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid;=1316209342&sr;=8-17 P.P.S. i am leaning towards the Logitech Extreme 3D Pro Joystick (second Pic), but i'm not sure if it's the best, any suggestions?
Question by ashannon1 | last reply
Design wouldI am sorry for how disorganised my ideas are but please bear in mind that it was at about 1:35 a.m that I typed this. I have an idea for a hahandledame system that would use sd memory cards as cartridges and would use two screens one would be a touch screen while the other would be a normal screen. For inter system communication I think that an ad-hock wireless web could be used like ninintendoid for the DS system. It would of course have onboard speakers but it would also have an onboard microphone for audio input, It would also have the apappropriateacks for external speakers and microphones on it. The handhandledld also have a mini usb port for charging and communications purppurposeswell as a female usb port for similar reasons though It would also be used as an input for external gamepads and usb flash drives. for the internal memory it would use compact flash memory cards to hold it's operating system and inernainternalare like a chat system and a simple non tabed web browser. for the operating system I thought that it could use linux since it is such a small compact operating system and doesn't need a whole lot to run. Now as far as external design goes I was thinking that a clamshell clamshellld probably be best for it. please tell me if any of this sounds improbable or downright impossible but please keep it clean.
Topic by Dwarg | last reply
Hi everyone ! Since Jan. the 1st I decided to set myself up to a little challenge by "making my way" through the year. In 2011 I was really disappointed never to seem to find the time to make enough stuff, so I decided to try to make something - even a little thing - every week. So far so good, as this has forced me to work fast and not overthink projects, and also go dig in the backburner folder to look for ideas. So far I've got : Week #1 : A papercraft and duct-tape mask made after an Army of Two template ; Week #2 : A hand-knit red scarf Week #3 : Chess piece flash drives Week #4 : Mont Black pens, an update on Kingant's original instructable Week #5 : Hackerspace passports from passport-sized Muji notebooks (Instructable coming soon) Week #6 : Plaster mold of my face for a harder version of the mask in Week #1 Week #7 : Custom Wordpress theme for my blog, based on Hamasaki theme (I had lent my Dremel to a friend, which I needed for Week #8 - see below) Week #8 : Fixing and repainting a skateboard found on the street ! Week #9 : Foam mold of the plaster mold from Week #6 ! Week #10 : USB gamepad from original Xbox pad Week #11 : Magnetic blackboard for appartment door (joint project with Rvaya from 5sizes2small Studio) Week #12 : Home-made BookCrossing labels Week #13 : Coming soon ! Have any of you ever tried anything like that ? Anyone have advice for skills to pick up along the way, or fun projects to do ? I'll try to post as many Instructable as possible inspired by that little challenge in the meantime !
Topic by thirtythreedown | last reply
Hi there! Okay so here i am with this idea i've been tackle with for weeks. Hold tight it's a long presentation. Brief Basically, i would like to make en electronic version of the Ocarina of time from Zelda. I would like to keep it really simple at least for the first step. So it will look like a proper ocarina but instead of holes there will be 6 arcade buttons ( Red, Green and 4 yellow as a reminder of the N64 gamepad buttons). Each button is assigned a note wich will be played while blowing through a microphone. The sound will be a synthesized sinewave that would be played thanks to a speaker. Will be great also if the device could work on a USB chargeable battery. I Have been doing researches on how to make it for a while now, though could'nt find exactly what i was looking for and not sure how to fit different parts together to make a worrkable fork. So i believe i have two options. As you may guess i am fairly new to electronics, programming and electronic music (Lol i read that all the times). To be as clear as possible i am gonna put some schemes of how i picture myself the electronic but i really don't know how it's supposed to be managed, i mean i know there will be some resistors, capacitors or whatever between the "function blocks" i draw but i have absolutely no clue of what should actually really appear. Option 1 - Analog So i made this stylophone few months ago : https://www.instructables.com/id/A-Stylophone/ It is based on a 555 timer (i also saw some mini synths based on this component). It felt to me as a good starting point. Volume would be controlled through the mic instead of a pot and i would get rid of the pitch pot and all the unecessary notes. But i would like it to sound more fluty and so i found this tuto on how to make a sinewave but don't know how to use it in this project (or even if possible) : http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/Sine-wave-generator-circuit-with-a-555-timer.php Regarding the microphone part I've also seen this insctrutable but the synth seemed to me way over what i planed to do in terms of sound synthesis ability : https://www.instructables.com/id/Arduino-Flute-Synth/ Option 2 - Digital So comes option 2 wich consist in using an arduino to synthesize the wave that would play if microphone is HIGH and if button 1 is High key 1 would be played etc. The scheme I provided seem definitely wrong to me but that's a first shot anyway. About sound synthesis with arduino i found this library i havent gone through the tutorial yet but it seem a little bit picky. http://sensorium.github.io/Mozzi/ So as you see i am kinda lost and a little clarification would be awesomely nice. I am actually working in a fablab and i would like to develop this project to be used as a workshop. Im pretty sure lots of old grown up kids would love to get a little ocarina. There are some other options i would like to implement (regarding what happend if you press several buttons or none) but well first things first. Hope you like the Idea, hope you can help. Love, Starsheeps and Electro-cupcakes! Adrien
Topic by ElectroSoja | last reply
It seems making an Instructable these days requires lots of pictures, detailed steps and tons of instructions.So before I try to paste my attempt here, I will point something out for the support team:1. There is little point in including pictures of a VR headset or how to plug a USB cable in. Same for images showing a DOS window and the command typed in it - they are the same as in the instructions...2. With little to no option to create an Instructable that requires actual code usage and properly embedded picture, let alone good editing options: How do you suggest one would accomplish this taks?3. With no category to post such Instrucables it is my personal opinion that these catergories need quite some updates! They are still the same as years ago despite life evolving around it...If you just went into the mobile VR world then you might feel a bit restricted compared to what you know from your smartphone.Over the months firmware updates provided us with some much needed things but a bit is still left out. In this Ible I will try to show way to get a bit more out of your GO. Be aware that a lot of it still requires a bit of manual work and a computer.If you are just curious then please read on and you might still find something interesting that you did not know yet.Getting started...One thing we certainly need is a way to access the GO and to install additional apps on it that are not available in the store.For this we need to activate the developer options. Unlike your normal Android device this step works only from the device you paired with your GO. Go into the settings and there look for the developer mode. Once you try to activate it Oculus requires you to sign up for a developer account. All this of course needs to be confirmed through Email activation, you know just to make it complicated and get more info about you ;) From there it is straight forward and like on any Android. Activate USB debugging, pair with your computer by USB cable and on the GO authorise the connection. Please also tick the box to make this permanent as otherwise you will be prompted every time. In case you are not so familiar with this just Google how to use ADB on Android - it is simple. I will add the required files and drivers in a later step dedicated to it.If you need more help getting the right options done or where to find them, please consider the great help for this offered on the Oculus developer sites. It makes sense to spent some time there as you find a lot of good info that might come in handy once you really want to get serious.ADB - A must have...You will find the drivers and all, as said, a bit later. ADB is the Android Debug Bridge. It allows us to get access to the (user)available file systems, do some basic tests and if supported even flash a firmware or make a backup.If you already used ADB for another Android device then you will only need the drivers for the GO. Otherwise you need to set up the enviroment for the Debug Bridge first. In the downloads will be a simple installer for this purpose. It is vital that you authorise your computer on the GO, best to tick the box to make it permanent.If you open a command prompt where you have ADB installed you can do some simple tests. Setting all required paths and system variables in Windows would allow you to access ADB functions from any folder on your computer. The later might be easier if you do not want to copy all related files into your ADB folder. Makes no real difference though and is up to your preferences.The command ADB devices should show you now that your GO is connected by listing it. If nothing shows up then please check the USB debugging option is set in the developer options. A reboot might help too in some cases. With this sorted we are good to go, almost at least...How to install "unknown" apps?As you might have noticed there is no playstore and all available stuff in the official store is VR based.Getting some essential apps on it seems to be impossible.Again the help offered by Oculus in the developer sections is a vital source, so please don't be afraid to read there ;) There are two basic ways of doing things on a device with so many restrictions.1. Just use ADB install packetname Where packetname is the filename for the app in question, for example Netflix.apk. With all apps you need in one place this is quickly done.2. Use a dedicated app installer or manager for the job. I will include one that actually works with the downloads. Same fore more detailed instructions.The thing is though that only apps designed and signed for VR will show up in your normal launcher. All other (supported) Android apps will show up in "unknown sources" in your library. Apps not supported for this purpose won't show anywhere! For them you need a dedicated launcher, which will be placed in the "unknown sources" section ;)Why do I spoon feed you here you might wonder? To be honest: If you already read some terms and basics it will be much easier to remember. Repetition is the key ;) I see little point in providing a simple to follow list of intructions as a week later you would struggle to do it again without the list in front of you.Our first unknown apps!Deciding what you might need in apps is one thing, knowing in what order you can safe hours of your life is another. I simply don't think you want to juggle with ADB whenever you want a new app that is not available in the official store. So for starters we will need something that is able to install apps for us. And since we can't use it without something to find and start it we also need an app starter. Basically like HALauncher for Android TV.The detailed instructions for this can be found with the downloads. First the app starter is installed, it will provide us with a living room like view onto a big screen. On the screen you will find all apps that are otherwise invisible to you. Some might tempt you to try them out - just don't! Unless you really know what you are doing you have a good chance to do something bad. Use the apps you know and the apps you added but none of the tempting system apps you might see.The APK installer will show up there too and is used to make installing apps a bit easier. You can copy them now onto your GO's internal storage and use the app installer to install them - how easy is that? Another option I included is the Aurora store - a fork of the YALP store and able to work without any playstore requirements. Downside is that the VR controllers are not fully supported yet as it is more aimed at TV sets. A BT touchpad works though if the controller or a gamepad fail. I only included Aurora as it could be a nice alternative one day with full VR support. Just search or browse for all the apps available in the playstore and install what you like. Be aware though that not everything will work with the remote. Some games and apps can be operated with a game controller though.It is getting nicer already ;)By now you might have already installed some things as you just could not wait to skip to the downloads.Well, can't really blame you, can I?Anyways, we now have the option to install more apps that we know from our non-VR Android devices. Oculus might make it harder in the future though - or they see it the same way and offer ready to go options one day. Till then it is up to you....Youtube VR might be nice but it is also still quite buggy and lacks some basic features. So getting a modded Youtube app could be a way out if you need comments for example. Kodi is still a must have for many Android users, especially the sport nuts with us. A filemanager is also something most Android users value. I will include some but again it comes down to what YOU prefer here. And with a basic way to install apps now you can also remove them again if you decide they don't work as expected.Get a bit used to the app launcher and how to install apps. Sideloading is fine for those used to it but some might prefer to just copy some apps on the GO and them use the installer with the remote. In the near future we will get support for external sorage, so using a USB stick or SD card in a reader will make the USB cable obsolete for file transfers. Some headsets already support it, so chances are by the time you read this yours will too. Although it still is a good way to keep your GO charged while copying big files ;)Precautions and Words of WisdomIt all sound nice and easy now but there are dangers you need to be aware of! Installing apps or games that are not fully designed for the GO or VR use can mean crashes. A lot will work but that does not mean it will keep doing so. A firmware update could one day end the support for sideloaded apps that are "non-VR". Especially messing with the app launcher can mean sudden disaster. Things you normally can not see are often hidden from you for a good reason. I will take no responsiblity for problems you caused by misusing system apps !Console emulators are a lot of fun and there are ways to even stream them from your PC in reasonable quality on a low end computer. But these and some demanding games also cause a lot of CPU usage. As the system is not optimised for 2D content it can mean that your battery runs out faster. In some cases you might not see the warning to charge, so be aware of time when immersing yourself.Stay away from any app or game that requires playstore components! Play Games for leaderboards might be no issue, especially if you don't need this feature. Online gaming like multiplayer actions will not work if it requires Google services for it! Similar story for hardware you don't have. If it is only designed for touchscreens than it might not work with the remote. And if it does not support gampads either... Apps that only support the wrong display orientation are a no go too.What Non-VR Stuff Actually Works on the GO?A lot and it will be possible to do even more. There are already streaming options for your own videos like Skybox, Moonplayer and they all support DLNA servers too. So watching normal, 3D or VR movies from a media server is no problem at all already. Getting games to work is another story all up. ALVR is a good platform to stream VR games from your PC to the GO. Unlike the Rift you won't even need an overpowered gaming PC for it. Virtual Desktop is a paid app but well worth the money if the support and features keep going as they do right now. With it you can use your computer or laptop from the GO. Watch movies, surf the net, play games. The GO more or less becomes a normal Windows computer only that you have the screen right in front of you.It will certainly be possible to code a simple VR app that works as a shortcut for non-VR apps. Like how right now you get the pic and description for a VR exerience and a button that starts the stream in the player. Downside is the requirement to certify such an "app" to make it visible in the normal launcher.Downloads and Instructions....Finally you get to the point where you can actually download something :)To make it all a bit easier and to ensure I won't miss a vital bit I did a factory reset on my GO to start from scratch :(Things might change in the future, so I will include the instructions as texfiles with the download.If I see a real requirement for screenshots I will include them with corresponding filenames.I think this way it is easier than scrolling through an Instructable as you can just print it all directly.Those without an account (yet) might value this too.Based on the feedback, questions and general comments I will change the contents of the download accordingly.Same for download links to avoid bloating up the download with outdated files.Easier for you (if you read this a few months from now) to download the newest files directly from the source.So don't be too disappointed if the download seems to contain less than what you expected.What seems to be missing will have links in the instructions.No files will come from unverified or unsecure sources!Whatever I include in the downloads directly will be checked for malware of all kinds.The same standards are true for the sources I provide.So no clickbait, ad sponsored re-directors or such crap.Please read the detailed instructions carefully, then read them again while actuall following the steps on your GO or computer.Do not blindly read it and jump onto doing it the first read!For ADB commands just copy and paste them - I might write some batch files though, so check for them in the instructions and make use of them.Things might not work out as planned, so if in doubt double check all the steps taken.What is in the provided instructions is tested on my GO's and works on the firmware version current of this writing.Download the guide and files from FilefactoryIn case the PDF in the download is not detailed enough, just ask in the comments ;)
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply