Is there any cheaper alternative to using thermal grease?
Question by Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves
I ordered these bearings from mcmaster to use in my new electric bike that i'm building for my senior project, but they spin really easily and im not sure wheather or not im supposed to grease them. and if I am, what kind of grease would be best? http://www.mcmaster.com/#ball-and-roller-bearings/=b15r5n
Question by the mechanical engineer | last reply
I am mounting 15 Cree LEDs to get an old overhead projector to work as a video projector. the only thing I am wondering is whether thermal epoxy is better to use than thermal grease with bolts and nuts attached to a heatsink. Do both have the same heat dissipation? What I am trying to do is still use the LEDs for use with other projects in case i need them for something else.
Topic by KT Gadget | last reply
I have a couple of abec 5 bearings and i tryed to grease them but i couldnt remove the metal shield withou t damaging it anyone know how to do it correctly?
Question by sharlston | last reply
Question by whatwomble | last reply
Is there a way I can clean a 2 stroke gas motor that I disassemble? I want to get rid of all this grease and this oil and if possible, is there a way to remove rust? I tried with water but there is still grease on it
Question by Patented | last reply
I have had some trouble cooking bacon. When I bought thick sliced bacon, my roommate stored it in the freezer (I think this was the problem?). The next day I had to moved it down to the normal side, took like 3 days to become pliable. However, when I try to cook it, it become so dry but I don't know why. Here's what I did, I left the slices on the pan (without heat) for 10 mins, then I cooked on medium heat, flipped till they became golden brown, then I pick them up by chopstick and leave it in my dish. First the bacon still have a little grease on it, so it's glossy; but a few moment later, it turn bone dry, no grease, no gloss, no nothing. Can anyone tell what my error was? I'm still new to bacon so sorry. PS: I wasn't able to take any picture cause my roommate ate them all because he was too hungry....
Question by Shizen | last reply
The GORE-TEX material is waterproof but still breathable so your feet don't get too hot while hiking - problem is, I forgot that you're not supposed to use grease on that material b/c it will fill the pores so the material can no longer breath. What now? How can I get the grease back out? I thought about putting them into the washing mashine but than I thought this might harm the GORE-TEX, too...?!Help!PS: The shoes are LOWA hiking shoes, the outside LOOKS like leather (which is why I thought I could use grease), if this is any help!Thanks a lot!
Question | last reply
Still working on my solar device (in Copenhagen now), and it's coming along fairly nicely. Should hopefully have a full instructable in a couple of weeks. However, I'm having problems at the moment trying to keep the thing water tight, where the axle leaves the system, taking out the rotational motion. I'm using the bearing housing from an old bike wheel (photos to come) and I've got it sealed well where it's attached to wall of the container, but the ethanol is flowing pretty freely through the bearings themselves. I need it not to. I could use something like an O ring to seal the axle, but friction is a big issue. I wanted to pack the whole axle and bearing housing with grease, but grease dissolves in ethanol. Solutions? Is there anything grease like which isn't soluble in alcohol? Salt, maybe? Cheers all. (Nearly there...)
Topic by SolarFlower_org | last reply
Ok so I've made some plate armour before and I'm wondering what the best LOW BUDGET preservative would be? For the pieces I've made I used silicone spray because its thick enough, however I've read on another forum that some people use vaseline(without skincare additives). Now the core of my question: have any of you tried out different preservatives and if so, what is the best low cost solution?
Question by knutknackebröd | last reply
I have the problem at work that we have less than perfect oil pumps - for vegetable oil of the really hot kind.If you ever had to deal with hot vegatable oil you know getting proper sealing is only one problem.The other and much bigger is esterfication - when the oil turns into a resin like goo.Depending on the ongoing temperature and blend of oil this goo is anything from rubber like to really rock hard, like amber without the trapped insects.Recently the manufacturer changed the pump design, so instead of getting my expected spare parts I got a new pump.With that one they fixed the problem of a leaking housing by providing a leaking ceramic seal on the drive shaft LOLNow, instead of having to replace pump/motor shaft seals every 3 months or so I also have failing motors.The hot oil has no issues getting into the front bearing....Can't really get fully sealed bearings that tolerate the heat and justify their price around here, so I needed som ideas.If you need a spanner to turn a motor of just 1/2hp and know the bearing isn't worn out it is time for drastic measures.This trick also works for stainless steel cookware but most won't have a big enough container to submerge them.The "resin" is oil based but with the esterfication it is more a polymer or plastic.Most solvents struggle to even soften the stuff, let alone remove it.The bearing in quesion is a common and in the caged form cheap 6203ZZ - standard on many bikes, alternators and well motors.After scraping off what came off from the outside I pulled it off the shaft.Needless to say I was unable to make it spin or move it by hand - but I had to check once it was off LOLThe cleaning involves dangerous chemicals, so be advised that proper PPE with face shield, gloves and apron is highly recommended!Same for doing it outside for ventilation purposes!I used a magnetic stirrer/hotplate cobo and a stainless steel jug.Filled enough water to allow the bearing to stand upright and fully submerged on the inner wall.For the about 150ml of water I added 3 tablespoons of sodium hydroxide (drain cleaner without the aluminium shavings).Last but not least I set the temp to a cosy 100°C - just under the boiling temp for this mix.After about an hour the water was brownish from the dissolved gunk.All up 3 hours and I decided to clean the bearing, netralise the mix and dispose it in into my collection container.I was able to move the bearing but could feel the rubbery bits moving along on the inside.Another round of 3 hours fixed this and the bearing was spinning freely.Just in case I did one more round with a fresh mix but it showed no visible discoloartion anymore.Wrapped in some paper towel I shook the remaining hydroxide solution out and let it sit for a few minutes in alcohol-.This step was repeated several times to ensure all the corrosive mix is out and that the bearing will dry quickly.How to re-grease a caged or even sealed bearing??I don't have a suitable adapter for a high pressure grease gun...But I do have a hotplate and a vacuum pump....Long story short the grease was heated in a small tuna can (I ate the tuna, sorry)´, the bearing added and fully covered.Into the vaccum chamber, pump on...First round quite some air came out and formed bobbles that left some open channels.Could not heat the grease to go fully liquid as it started to smell at just over 200°C :(Two round later however I could not see anythng happening anymore when the vacuum was at max.I hate the cleaning but at least after that was done the bearing was back to its old glory.If you have bearings that are really hard to get and that are just dry and a bit dirty inside then this trick might help you.So why does the sodium hydroxide work so well?In a concentrated solution and hot it is a potent agent - do not let any aluminium get near it!Nothing in a bearing however is affected by it and it transform most oils and greases into a soap like thing that helps with the removal of the remaining stuff.The "cooking" also makes sure there is little to no oxygen left in the water, so no rust will form unless you forget the alcohol cleaning.Once you see how easy you can shake the hydroxide solution out of the bearing to get it dry and even better with the alcohol you realise why caged bearings are no good in a wet or dirty environment.
Topic by Downunder35m
What is the best cleaning chemical for hard to remove grease from detailed wooded cabinets?
Question by katita | last reply
Ok, you think you calibrated your printer properly and that all should be fine.You even printed an awful lot without any issues at all....Then you linear bearing start to get louder and louder....Just about an hour into a really big print, what to do??I aborted to prevent a failed print later on.Cleaned all the rods instead of just the one I though to be the culprit with alcohol.Used a nice sponge to apply a thin and fresh coat of oil.Double checked everything and even put a bit of grease onto the z-axis threaded rod for good measure.All well, all fine, so start h print again...Just 52 minutes into the print and the squeeking started again.Must be related to the height then and I aborted again.I mean, who cares about having wasted a few meters of filament if the remaining 50 odd meters of the print won't be a waste...Took the assembly apart this round.Washed all bearings in alcohol and flushed them before drying in the vaccum chamber (was in a hurry...).Used proper grease to fill the bearings again and lubed all rods, including the z-axis parts.After wasting these three hours I though I could let it just print over night...All movements sounded fine, almost silent to before, so what could go wrong...Print started fine after the bed calibration so I let it run and went to bed.According to my printers display I woke 70 minutes later to literally screaming bearings.Almost like somone running fingernails over a chalk board!But the print seemed to go really fine so I decided to use ear plugs and let it run.Couldn't really sleep and woke up about two hours later - to a silent printer still printing fine....Next day my print came out just fine but I still needed the matching counterpart.And with that one the screaming started already 20 minutes into the print - it got worse!!!With nothing left it must be the extruder then.... :(Aborted the print, took the entire extruder apart and cleaned all.Still, the next round it started screaming at me again...Tried the other extruder with the ABS instead of PLA - no noise at all and the part came out fine but useless as I needed it in PLA.Do you know how much time you can wast cleaning lubricating your 3D printer for no good reason at all?If you can then add another 2 hours for cleaning the extruder again even adding silicone oil where moving plastic parts meet - even if it just for the pressure spring...Needless to say it did not silence the PLA print....But I figured it out in the end!To no surprise the next PLA part printed with no noise at all.And like a switch turns your lights on and illuminates a room, my brain suddenly got a lightbulb moment I was hit with the light of pure realisation!Note to self:If you print conical holes and require cooling for your nozzle then bloddy realise that the cooling fan and your holes act like a simple whistle!Try it out one day and print some hollow cones with the thinner opening facing up ;)There should be a way to create some musical notes this way as well but maybe you have the patience to match the cones properly and write some g-code to move the head over the cones to create a tune....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I hear alot of people saying that grease is not the way to go because it will slow youre rc car down and that they reccomend oil but what oil should I be useing.
Question by coolpizzadude | last reply
Question by kev3p0 | last reply
Hello, I have a "Craftsman= IC-Gold Series, Horsepower/Over-Head-Valves= 14.5, and the Model # of= (917.270514). Can anyone tell me how I can get to the "Transaxle", so I could grease it?? It is shifting extremely hard, and trying to mow with it is quite difficult. I have been searching for a diagram that might show me where/how to get some grease into the transaxle to enable easier shifting of the gears. Thank You for your time/attention to my inquiry.
Question by acebird | last reply
I have a Regina freewheel and i wanted to re-grease the bearings and make it all smooth again. im not sure on how to even start this process, i need help.
Washed a shirt with pb stain and now just a grease stain. what to do?
Question by LeslieLouie | last reply
What would get off road scum but not the grease inside the bearing EDIT: HERE IS A PICTURE of a clean one next to a dirty one
Question by bigbodysmallbrain | last reply
I have a brass bed that's badly tarnished. Tried Brasso with limited success. Becasue the bed is a large area to polish elbow grease would wear an average person out! Does anybody know of a better way to polish Brass?
Question by bilwen | last reply
Where can I post a cheap, excellent working hand scrub recipt that works exceptionally well? Made from household ingredients,Cleans hands no matter how soiled from dirt to grease. email@example.com
Question by bullfrogs | last reply
Food culture is on the skids with this latest assault on your stomach. Buying one of these is basically saying that your body is not a temple but a broken down playground and that you hope that with a little bit more grease you can oil up the swingset for a couple more rides. And if you feel a little sluggish afterwards, there's that handy bit of Red Bull right next to it. Linkvia bbgadgets
Topic by fungus amungus | last reply
It's brown, it smells awful, and it's all over my pan after a few rounds of pancakes. What is it, grease? I don't want to eat it! How do I get it off!?
Question by moisture | last reply
I see that people recommend using different kinds of solvent (and lots of elbow grease) to get the adhesive residue off, but I have an area that is north of 500 sq. feet. Tile is off and we'd like to stain the concrete. Thanks for any suggestions.
Question by TracyS131 | last reply
i just converted my dads racing bike into a fix gear and sometimes when i cruise around,the front wheel squeaks and after a long spin the squeaks disappear.Is it because i need grease or wd 40 in my front wheels hub or smthin? answers appretiated,please Answer!thanks.....
Question by mastermakoko | last reply
Hello,I am involved in a project, based on the technologie used in microscope stages. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Olympus-Mechanical-Microscope-Stage-w-Specimen-Holder-From-Model-BH2/123699351875?hash=item1ccd0e5143:g:Hs4AAOSw0TpckTT2These have an X and Y axis which can move independently and are driven by rack and pinion gear, controlled by a translation unit with two knobs. The consistency of the grease used in the shafts that connect the knobs with the gear generates great damping and resistence when the stage is moved, so that the movement is nicely smooth and slow. I am not a technician/engineer but a designer and know nothing about torque. I need to know the torque that is generated by this sort of system, especially when the stage is moved BY HAND, so not using the knobs. I would be interested in the minimum and maximum torque that is generated when pushing the stage by hand.I am thinking of using a slip clutch/torque limiter to replace the translation unit, because I don't want to depend on grease. That is why I need to know the torque. Anyway, maybe somebody on this forum has a better idea. I'm all open.Thanks,Rob
Question by butterflies55555 | last reply
I was recently given a very well taken care of 8" Craftsman 1/3hp 5 speed drill press. It works fine, but it's a little grimy. So I'm currently cleaning it. Actually I wanted to ask someone if it's okay to clean that gunky layer of grease off of it because the grime has mixed in and it's essentially "sanding" the post. If it IS okay to clean off, do I replace it with different or newer grease once it's been cleaned? Also, ever since I was a kid, I was captivated by the swirling grinder or polisher pattern on the drill press table. Mine has a thin layer of rust on the table. Is there any way to remove the rust without ruining my beloved swirly pattern? So to wrap up here is the list of questions... 1. What are some modifications, tips, tricks, jigs, etc. for an 8" Benchtop Drill Press? 2. Is it okay to clean the grease off of the entire machine? If so, do I regrease it afterwards? What's the best product to use? 3. Is there a way to remove small layer of rust off the table without compromising the original swirl pattern? ANY and ALL help or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thank you Instructables community!!(That made me think of a town whose entire population was comprised of Instructables members. Ha! Got a question about robots? Go to Ted's three doors down. Building a welder from car batteries? Oh Tom two streets over would be more than happy to help! I know...ridiculous.)
Question by Mister Wolf | last reply
I like to roast meats and poultry in my crockpot, but they often wind up stewing in a pool of grease at the bottom. I'm thinking of putting a washed, crushed aluminum can in the bottom to lift the food. Is there any danger from the can or inks on the outside? Sure it's foodsafe in its normal usage, but that doesn't include heating or food coming in contact with outside surfaces. Any chemists or metallurgists care to weigh in? Thanks!
Question by ToniRose | last reply
Generally we don’t think about the quality stain odour remover for floor or a marble which can easily grab oil, grease, souse, blood stains, and these type of stains not remove easily by the normal marble cleaner that’s why it's don’t work superior. So what you thing about that type of stain how to remove it easily with or without hard work?
Topic by einsclean
I need a peltier chip for a project and I'm a little confused how they work. I'm pretty sure I got it right, but not positive. Can someone tell me if this is right? The hot side of a peltier chip is attached to a heatsink with "grease" (can someone tell me where to get that?) then a fan blows the hot air away from the peltier chip from the side and another fan blows across the side of the peltier chip to its intended destination for cooling. Is this right?
Question by Adum24 | last reply
I got a used car from the local electric company's auction and for a long time I didn't care about the glue left on the door. But I have an idea for a custom paintjob that I would like to do but the residue from the very poorly removed company vinyls is in the way. I tried to use goo-b-gone but it barely worked at all, even when I was using a buffer to simulate extra elbow grease. Are there any other ways to get the stuff off short of removing the paint?
Topic by finfan7 | last reply
I've gotten through the time consuming task of removing the 800 layers of what probably is lead paint, and have had some success with sanding, but it takes even longer then the stripping to get down to the shiny metal. I think this is some kind of tarnish? If so, is there a product someone could recommend, or am I committing to another 800 hours of elbow grease? Many thanks in advance!
Question by ArtDecoSteelFrames | last reply
As I see comments complaining over certain aspects of projects often enough, here is why some of these quips are utterly futile in their nature and go unacknowledged by many. Here's one posted a few days ago: "It's confusing for people without a technical understanding." This comment was posted to an instructable with 17 steps and several dozens of photographs. Because there is no indication of what the problem is, this statement is all but meaningless. There is nothing on which to base a response with help tailored to the commenter because he has not explained his plight's origins. If you are going to make a complaint or ask a question, identify the relevant subject. That will grease the skids for any correspondence that follows. Without it, your bid for a chat is more complex needlessly.
Topic by OrigamiAirEnforcer | last reply
Reposting need help Can I power an AC LED driver with DC voltage, from what I understand the driver controls voltage and current. I purchase an LED light 7 x 1watt , the driver was rated 85 - 265 volt ac input but the seller had written 12 volt DC with grease pen across the printed label. This light works fine so I ordered 7 more like it with same ratings from a differant seller and they only work on 115 - 230 volt. Now I need to find proper driver or ship back to Hong Kong( Grrrr) I have seen drivers rated at 12 volt AC, will these work on 12 volt DC voltage? Thank you in advance, Duncan.
Topic by dsr.
Can I power an AC LED driver with DC voltage, from what I understand the driver controls voltage and current. I purchase an LED light 7 x 1watt , the driver was rated 85 - 265 volt ac input but the seller had written 12 volt DC with grease pen across the printed label. This light works fine so I ordered 7 more like it with same ratings from a differant seller and they only work on 115 - 230 volt. Now I need to find proper driver or ship back to Hong Kong( Grrrr) I have seen drivers rated at 12 volt AC, will these work on 12 volt DC voltage? Thank you in advance, Duncan.
Topic by dsr.
I have a stock of large sheets of translucent mylar that I want to use as tracing medium. The trouble is that I got them from an engineering shop, so they have plans printed on them. I've had some success "erasing" the drawings using either alcohol hand sanitizer or acetone, but both require some elbow grease and some kind of abrasive, which leaves the surface mottled. Is there a solvent that will dissolve the ink and leave the surface of the mylar more-or-less undamaged? My research suggests that the ink was laid down by an inkjet printer, though I can't be entirely certain.
Question by yoyology | last reply
Hey so I found this thing full of coloured wires in a parking lot, And I was wondering what it could be.. It has a huge black connector, that connect 10 coloured wires, and it end up with blue thingy cap, and thats what im looking for. I salvage one of them to see what was inside, but it didnt help very much, wire is covered with brass piece around it, then another brass piece around then a blue hard plastic shell.. and there a lot of grease inside.. Theres a hole at the end of the blue cap, but It doesn't seems to be a place to connect something, because to hole is tiny and the shell is hard (shrinked) so its no elastic ( see pictures!) You know what it could be ? Thank you!!
Question by Patented | last reply
I have an assortment of plastic gears all different sizes on ebay if anyone's interested. Mostly from old printers and scanners. The item is in the UK, but willing to post to most countries. From the listing "This is an assortment of plastic/nylon (not sure what they're made of) gears that I've collected over the years. These are mostly from old printers and fax machines that I've stripped for the stepper motors. Please bear in mind that most of these will not mesh with each other - they're all different sizes, pitches, and different centre hole diameters, and many of them have original grease on them. So don't expect to be able to make a large gear train out of these, most of them won't mesh." http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item;=290634418757 The ruler in the picture is 20cm ( 8" ) long
Topic by scraptopower
Not too long ago, I saw a WONDERFUL RODENT "TRAP" from not too long ago.... It used a 5-gallon bucket with anti-freeze (coolant) at the bottom, and a ROD going through close to the to to of the bucket. A ROD ran through the two top holes, and a small "coke" bottle was hung OVER the bucket (how attached) and the bottle was 'GREASED' or baited with peanut butter, or other stuff RATS like. A stick (ramp) board led to the top of the bucket - turns out, the creature in question would go for bait, the center rod would spin, dumping him in the fatal coolant. Here in Florida, we have a screen porch that has entries and exits for our FRIENDLY critters (birds, squirrels) but I think this guy (BIG ONE) lives in our foliage. WE DON'T like him... Can you direct me to it? Thanks - Brian
Question by Tampaguy | last reply
I am fighting a little war with some oil pumps.Attached to a 1/2HP motor the construction is quite simple.To prevent leaking there is a spring loaded oil seal between pump and motor.But this seal is never 100% if you deal with 180°C hot vegetable oil....At these temps the stuff is literally thinner than water and sooner or later finds a way out.Main problem I am facing is the drying of the vegetable oil.Over time it turns intoa really hard resin.But before that it manages to creep all the way into the motor bearing in the front part of the motor.It drives out the grease and slowly replaces it with drying resin util the whole thing seizes.Rebuilding is a true pain in the back as it is a 180V DC motor with build in rectifier and regulator to run on 220V AC mains.Things I tried so far:Adding a good amount of high temperature grease bewtween oil seal and motor housing - only a marginal longer service time was achieved.Making a custom sleeve to go over the motor shaft that is glued onto it - worked well, or so I thought until I realised the silicone oil content in the oil slowly destroys all gues I tried so far.Adding a shim disk right on top of the bearing - this worked best so far and almost doubled the time until the motor failed. Downside is that it takes me over 4 hours to fully rebuild a motor just to get said dik in and I have no replacements anymore.It was suggested to me to set the back of the motor slightly higher than the front so the oil would not go anywhere near the bearing.This I tried to implement about 8 weeks ago and as the motor got noisy last week I took it all apart for a service again.Despite the motor mounted at an angle of about 5° the oil still creeped past the shim disk and into the bearing.So I did some simple tests with the hot oil and indeed it forms a slowly creeping film tha travels upwards on a shaft.I guess the rotation helps here as well to spread the drops around.And yes, last time I used "fully sealed" bearing with an build in cover and still it fails :(I would love to try something flexible but long lasting to seal the bearing against the rest.Something in the region of a rubbery stuff that can be applied like a sealant.But hard enough to survive a few weeks of shaft rotations.Are there any really sealed bearings available?Bearings that, for example would be fine working submerged in liquid without any liquid being able to enter?It is clearly a desing fault of the machine to make money through spare parts but that's not the point here.I can not replace the pump as it is an intergral part of other things attached.And not really that easy to find a pump capable of dealing with hot oil anyway.Is there any grease available that does not turn into a liquid at these high temps and would it be possible to get ito into a bearing?Running out of ideas here guys, so feel free to throw in whatever comes to mind even if it seems odd!I just need a way to keep highly viscous, boiling hot oil from entering a bearing ;)
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Hi! I bought this old sink at a salvage yard. It has a sheet metal bottom with some drawers and cabinets. They are lined on the inside with this plastic contact paper that's been stuck on for 50 years. I have tried getting it off by applying extreme elbow grease and a metal paint scraper, after soaking the surfaces for a while in this stuff: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=36&prodid;=155 ("Cirtistrip Low V.O.C. Adhesive Remover") but its still pretty much not coming off. Anyone have a better idea about how to get this stuff off? A greener, not-so-toxic method would be great... but I'm not sure if there is such a thing? (FWIW: The sheet metal is not bare, it has a white paint/enamel-type coating. Which is pretty scratched up in places. I intend to sand & repaint it, once I get the contact pager off.)
Topic by microbat | last reply
How to make 20 Krispie Cakes Ingredients: 145 grams of butter 40 grams of cocoa 115 grams of sugar (white granulated) 200 grams of syrup (golden) 285 grams of rice krispies Method: 1. melt the butter, coacoa, sugar and syrup in a mediam saucepan 2. bring to the boil but soons as it starts boiling remove it from the hob immediatley (turn of gas but leave it on the hob so you can keep on stiring) 3. then squash it into a lightly greased tin (prefrebly a 2cm thick, rectangular one) 4. cool for half an hour and mark 3 lines down from the smallest side and 4 from the longest and then cool for another 30 mins. 5. THEN SERVE YUMM YUMM. PLEASE COMMENT AND MAKE IT POSITIVE OR ILL JUST DELET IT AND REPORT YOU IF YOU WOULD LIKE TO DOWNLOAD THE RECIPIE AND SAVE INK WHEN PRINTING ASK ME TO EMAIL IT U VIA COMMENT JUSTLEAVE NAME AND EMAIL 360XXXKNEX OUT!!!
Topic by 360XXXKNEX | last reply