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Safety Warnings -- how to do it right!

I saw this on the MAKE blog today.  It is, I think, the single greatest effort at a properly respectful (to the intelligence of the user) safety warning that I've seen.  Kudos both to the tech writer who came up with it, and the lawyers who had enough common sense to release it into the wild. My only complaint is that on SparkFun's Web page, the instruction manual is a completely inaccessible JPEG image.  Perhaps part of being "safe" is not allowing anyone with low vision or who reads a language other than English, to know about the product?  (Yes, I've contacted them directly about it.)

Topic by kelseymh    |  last reply


Instructables safety

Hi! I love the site and all of the features. I do however have one concern, that is regarding the safety of the users/builders. I believe it's just a matter of time before someone gets killed or seriously hurt by attempting some of the instructions. I've seen way too many instructions without any type of warning text or concern about user safety, these instructables often involving high voltage, significant overheating risks and high powered lasers. A couple of these have also been featured instructables. My suggestion is something like big red bar just above every page of the instructable, saying like "DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS PROJECT WITHOUT ADEQUATE KNOWLEDGE/EXPERIENCE". To make this bar show up I suggest one final pop up question before each project is published saying something like "Could building/using project possibly cause any risk of injury?" and if true the banner would appear. Admins should also be able to turn on this bar manually. I believe the current focus is to prevent project that intends to cause harm, but many other projects will likely cause harm if the builder doesn't have enough knowledge. Especially if the original maker himself also lacks knowledge about the risks with their design. I would ask you to consider not allowing instructables that involves tampering with high voltage connections if you don't like the idea of a warning banner. I don't want to see some kid loosing their eyes after attempting to build a DIY laser engraver or worse, killed during a rainstorm holding their ungrounded DIY high voltage spotlight.

Topic by johanmoberg    |  last reply


Are you to blame?

OK, I know it's a deliberately attention-grabbing topic name. Sorry about that.There was a post on the Bamboo bike frame, essentially saying "a disclaimer that this could be dangerous isn't enough; people aren't qualified to judge the strength of their homebuilt bike frames so might still get hurt even if they are careful", which attracted a lot of ire, but also a response from whiteoakart reframing the question, thus:As a maker and writer of an Instructable, what is your responsibility to keep your readers safe? How far does your culpability extend?This is obviously a knotty issue, and one that seems to have a range of attitudes across the board- some people say "pointy things are pointy, hot things are burny, don't hurt yourself" and leave it at that, some people list all the grievous injuries possible from their Instructable.In my opinion, there are two major things to consider:Is a person likely to do themselves harm even taking reasonable precautions?An Instructable on how to weld, with clear advice on breathing protection, eye protection and not electrocuting yourself should be "safe"An Instructable on free rock climbing, even with all the advice in the world about how to climb well, could easily get someone killed because free climbing is inherently dangerousIs the intended audience capable of accurately assessing the risks? The risks of a table saw are obvious- put your hands in the wrong bit and it will cut them off- but the risks of high-voltage electrics are harder to judge with simple "common sense" because a seemingly minor fault could be lethal.Both of these have an element of "reasonable" to them- if you make your instructions foolproof nature will give you a bigger fool, but there is a point at which it is reasonable to assume that a sensible person following your instructions with care and attention will not injure themselves.More thoughts?

Topic by PKM    |  last reply


Safety or lack thereof

Hi, Does Instructibles have a duty of care with regard to the safety on the ibles that are presented on the site? In the past, people would put "please don't try this at home, please be instructed on soldering/HV/lasers/...." now I am seeing some 'ibles that are carelessly dangerous. Some examples are: - connecting a microwave magnetron to a high gain waveguide antenna output - circuits and places to purchase lasers that are not eye-safe, even likely to blind and burn (1W diode lasers) - HV circuits that have no protection / current limiting, creepage and clearance considerations etc. Maybe I am a grumpy old man, but it does worry me! I would hate to see kids blinded just because they read an ible without understanding the dangers, build something up and become blinded.  Would you like it if that was your kid and they saw it on ibles? For the budding inventors out there, to get the product to market they will have to consider safety in the designs.  Why not start now as part of the product concept? Not trying to be a scaremonger, just trying to understand where people are coming from and provide some suggestions on how to improve things: - provide check boxes or an icon that people can tick (eg skull and crossbones for chemicals, laser safety icon etc.) - provide standard warnings - refuse to publish or ask for rework of 'ibles that are recklessly dangerous - sponsorship for a 'safety first' ible competition? - ..... Is this something that 'ibles would be interested in? Regards Steve

Topic by kutvpiheg1955    |  last reply


Capacitor-bank safety issues

Okay, so I'm going to be the wet-blanket old guy.... Has anyone considered adding a topic to this group (or an I'ble) on electrical safety with supercaps? Even the low-voltage ones put out tremendous current, enough to put you into convulsions or stop your heart (50 joules) if applied correctly. These devices are amazingly cool to work with -- better than batteries when you need high current, outstanding AC line filters, and terrific party toys when you need some bang for your buck. They can also turn around and bite you on the arse without warning...

Topic by kelseymh    |  last reply


Knex Gun: Infinity

Hey guys, sorry about the delay. I've been really busy with school, since I'm a senior, gotta keep working and getting good grades and what not. Anyways, I have the pictures for the Ible ready, just need to upload em.  Just give me a little more time. Thanks for always being there, and supporting me! -SW- P.S: There has been several modifications since the video, they will be in the Ible, and I warn you, it is not an easy build, and it requires quite a lot of pieces.

Topic by Senior Waffleman    |  last reply


My airsoft gun.

This is my airsoft gun, its a SAS12. it fires at 240fps (1 joule, the max power limit for ireland) and packs a hell of a punch! its very accurate up to about 50-75ft. i painted the top of the barrel, for better looks, and the notches on the ironsights white, for easier aiming. its magazine capacity is 30 rounds. it also featues a safety switch just behind the trigger. it only cost me €50! (€35 for the gun, €10 for the pellets and €5 for the speed loader (holds 100 pellets)) its a brilliant airsoft gun!

Topic by ~KGB~    |  last reply


Poll Question: Do you think health and safety has gone crazy?

I know that on Instructables we do some fairly dangerous stuff with all the potato guns and weaponry. This 30 years ago was perfectly acceptable, but in the modern society health and safety makes you wear goggles and be safe. The fact is you can do practically nothing in an open environment without being told to be safer. I brought up this topic when i heard that one school had banned all pencil cases as well... It might contain sharp objects-like pencils! So what do you think, is all the politics making health and safety a bit over the top or is it just there to protect us?

Topic by Mr Tenacious    |  last reply


Is this a good paintball gun?

I am thinking of getting the syndicate misfit paintball gun. Does anyone have one or experience with one. here are the specs: The Misfit is the ONLY marker in its class to operate at low pressure using CO2. Its precision performance and engineering detail make this marker the most powerful at its level on the market today. +2 piece 14" barrel +multi mode electronic grip frame +adjustable rate of fire up to 16 balls per second (BPS) +3 firing modes (semi auto, 3 round burst & full auto) +LED light Display +enhanced volumizer +3/4" gauge +vertical Feed +leak proof valve (US patent 3.553.983) +adjustable double trigger +push button safety +deluxe field strip pin +spring loaded ball detent +vertical adapter +external battery charging port +top & rear cocking +Gloss anodized finish (also available in green to black fade finish) +milled body +standard bottom line adapter +velocity adjuster with lock +adjustable in line regulator +all metal gun no plastic exterior parts!

Question by Thelonelysandwitch    |  last reply


Bypass safeties in electronic Neon Transformer

I have a neon sign transformer that i would like to use for high voltage projects. The problem is it has an electronic safety circuit that (I believe) checks to see if there is a neon tube is attached.  Does anyone know how to bypass the safety system? the transformer box is full of insulating tar so accessing the electronics is near impossible. when turned on it sends out several short HV pulses and then the warning light illuminates, it seems to be searching for some type of load. 930CPX120 ALLANSON 9000V 30MA NEON TRANSFORMER,

Question by BlitzkriegBrain    |  last reply


HELP! DRIVEWAY WARNING SYSTEM FOR CYCLISTS

My wife and I are moving to a new house that has a hidden driveway on a bend of a busy road that obscures our visibility as we exit. We are avid cyclists and ride around town on scooters, too. Does someone have a suggestion on a remote activated light system that could call drivers' attention to the driveway as we pull out? We have multiple lights on our bikes, but nevertheless, I'd like to enhance the safety of exiting. My only thought was to hook up some sort of lights to a darkroom timer and activate it for two minutes as we leave, but that would require burying a cable in pvc as far as I could tell, and the driveway is long. In short, it would be super inconvenient. What would be ideal is a remote activated flashing light set on one or both sides of the driveway, powered by battery that activated by the remote and turned off after a short period of time. Any suggestions on products or designs would be appreciated.

Topic by johnson.drj    |  last reply


Dirt Cheap Acoustic Guitar Pickup

Hi I am concerned about the health and safety aspects of the instructable of "Dirt Cheap Acoustic Guitar Pickup by Xuthal". The project encourages people to take apart a smoke detector to obtain a piezo sounder. However no warning at all is given by the author that there may be radioactive material in the device, or how to recognise it and how to deal with it. I tried to post a warning on the article but for some reason it hasn't worked. I could not see how to flag up the item so I am posting here. Whilst the manufacturers of smoke alarms play down the dangers of Americium 241 dioxide (the radioactive material), they would most certainly not condone opening up a smoke detector sensor. Am O2 will most likely pass straight through the gut due to its insolubility, so your readers are probably safe from ingesting it. However, if the source is fractured into dust particles, it could be inhaled and will lodge in the lung for a long time. Being an alpha emitter the Am241 will very likely end up causing a lung cancer. I think this instructable is highly irresponsible and should be removed. In any case the item taken from the smoke detector, a piezo transducer, is readily available from any hobby electronics supplier and costs less than the battery to power the detector in the first place!

Topic by TCSC47    |  last reply


Warning to anyone who does explossives

As a former pyrotechnician, I fell like I must war people how dangerouse this shit is. Black powder is a high explosive and can be detonated with a slight impact of a feather. Flash powder is EXTREMELY DANGEROUSE, IT CAN BE DETONATED WITH OUT SPECIFIC REASONS. AMMOUNIUM NITRATE Is also another highly unstable high explosive, it can be set of even if you drop it. Gasoline is a high EXPLOSIVE, it just takes a spark to detonate. That why they are use in cars! DON"T LISTEN WHAT THESE OTHER PEOPLE SAY ABOUT GAS NOT BEING AN EXPLOSIVE, IT REALLY IS AN HIGH EXPLOSIVE, I know this because I'm an pyrotecnic. Molotov cocktails are often used in the army, they canblow up holw rooms, and if the fire on the rage hits the inside of the jar youre dead. Sparklers are another high explosive, thats why they are illigal, they can detonate and blow your whole arm off. M-80 can blow up for no specific reason, the gun powder(AKA BLACK POWDER) is extremely unstable. Match heads are also as unstable as gunpowder, it can even ignite under it's own weight. Nitrogen triiodide is also unstable. Thermite can detonate with a powerful heat and force but it can only be detonated with magnesium. Pottasium nitrate can even blow up if you just leave it there. SO, DO NOT BE DOING THESE FIREWORKS!

Topic by tickytickytackytac  


Warning to anyone who does explossives

As a former pyrotechnician, I fell like I must war people how dangerouse this shit is. Black powder is a high explosive and can be detonated with a slight impact of a feather. Flash powder is EXTREMELY DANGEROUSE, IT CAN BE DETONATED WITH OUT SPECIFIC REASONS. AMMOUNIUM NITRATE Is also another highly unstable high explosive, it can be set of even if you drop it. Gasoline is a high EXPLOSIVE, it just takes a spark to detonate. That why they are use in cars! DON"T LISTEN WHAT THESE OTHER PEOPLE SAY ABOUT GAS NOT BEING AN EXPLOSIVE, IT REALLY IS AN HIGH EXPLOSIVE, I know this because I'm an pyrotecnic. Molotov cocktails are often used in the army, they canblow up holw rooms, and if the fire on the rage hits the inside of the jar youre dead. Sparklers are another high explosive, thats why they are illigal, they can detonate and blow your whole arm off. M-80 can blow up for no specific reason, the gun powder(AKA BLACK POWDER) is extremely unstable. Match heads are also as unstable as gunpowder, it can even ignite under it's own weight. Nitrogen triiodide is also unstable. Thermite can detonate with a powerful heat and force but it can only be detonated with magnesium. Pottasium nitrate can even blow up if you just leave it there. SO, DO NOT BE DOING THESE FIREWORKS!

Topic by tickytickytackytac  


What makes a gun? An elements of a gun lesson

Since this is a group that likes to break it down a little, I decided to give you guys a good start. First you have to ask yourself, How do you break down a knex gun? Every time you design a new gun (not basing on looks first), this is how you define each element: - Trigger:   This is quite obvious; a system that will lock the trigger back and release when activated. (examples: true trigger, a single pin, crossbow trigger, motor (for turret designs), etc.) - Ammunition feed:   This is the system that will pull a single bullet from the ammunition storage, and put it in place for firing. (examples: gravity, spring (from a clip on the bottom of gun), lever system, etc.) - Ammunition Storage:   A simple device in theory, but sometimes quite complicated due to the fine tuning involved; a place that stores your ammunition not in use. (examples: hopper, chain-fed, clip, chamber (like a revolver or a pseudo Gatling gun), etc.) - Reload:   One of the hardest systems to design in knex yet very crucial to the gun; the system that reloads the gun for firing again. (examples: semi-auto, full-auto, pump-action, etc) - Firing pin:   The system that obviously fires the bullet loaded. - Barrel:   This has always been an iffy in knex. This is completely optional, but here are the results for it: If you add one, it can increase accuracy of shooting - but can lead to jamming and friction. If you don't, your shots can (most likely will be) quite inaccurate at medium to long ranged. -  Safety:   This feature is nice, but not necessary at all and should defiantly be thought of after the gun is fully made or the firing system / ammunition system is completely done. This system of course allows users to lock their gun while not in use to prevent mis-firing. For larger guns, I tend to go full out on this feature as larger guns can be more user-friendly and dangerous in the wrong hands (or the right hands!); and I've even created a key-lock system to enable the gun (like a car engine). (yes, the key lock was designed similar to that of a house lock, it had changeable teeth that could only be opened when the appropriate key was turned in) I highly recommend this feature, but please leave it to the end! - Other features / handles:   other features such as how the gun is held or mounted should be thought of at the very end, otherwise you would end up trying to work around that, not the other way around. BUILDING I highly suggest designing these systems separately and puting them together after they work. The only thing about this is that you build all the systems one at a time, but be sure to add the next piece on AS you're building it. Otherwise you would end up with a variety of systems that work, but not together. PLEASE feel free to post any systems designed (or built) in this group so we can work as a team to put these pieces together. For an example please check out the gun I've posted on this website (I've only posted one so far), it's a great example of building and designing systems separately but to work together. HAPPY BUILDING!

Topic by SNIPERDUDE    |  last reply


Warning to anyone who does explossives

As a former pyrotechnician, I fell like I must war people how dangerouse this shit is. Black powder is a high explosive and can be detonated with a slight impact of a feather. Flash powder is EXTREMELY DANGEROUSE, IT CAN BE DETONATED WITH OUT SPECIFIC REASONS. AMMOUNIUM NITRATE Is also another highly unstable high explosive, it can be set of even if you drop it. Gasoline is a high EXPLOSIVE, it just takes a spark to detonate. That why they are use in cars! DON"T LISTEN WHAT THESE OTHER PEOPLE SAY ABOUT GAS NOT BEING AN EXPLOSIVE, IT REALLY IS AN HIGH EXPLOSIVE, I know this because I'm an pyrotecnic. Molotov cocktails are often used in the army, they canblow up holw rooms, and if the fire on the rage hits the inside of the jar youre dead. Sparklers are another high explosive, thats why they are illigal, they can detonate and blow your whole arm off. M-80 can blow up for no specific reason, the gun powder(AKA BLACK POWDER) is extremely unstable. Match heads are also as unstable as gunpowder, it can even ignite under it's own weight. Nitrogen triiodide is also unstable. Thermite can detonate with a powerful heat and force but it can only be detonated with magnesium. Pottasium nitrate can even blow up if you just leave it there. SO, DO NOT BE DOING THESE FIREWORKS!

Topic by tickytickytackytac    |  last reply


Warning to anyone who does explossives

As a former pyrotechnician, I fell like I must war people how dangerouse this shit is. Black powder is a high explosive and can be detonated with a slight impact of a feather. Flash powder is EXTREMELY DANGEROUSE, IT CAN BE DETONATED WITH OUT SPECIFIC REASONS. AMMOUNIUM NITRATE Is also another highly unstable high explosive, it can be set of even if you drop it. Gasoline is a high EXPLOSIVE, it just takes a spark to detonate. That why they are use in cars! DON"T LISTEN WHAT THESE OTHER PEOPLE SAY ABOUT GAS NOT BEING AN EXPLOSIVE, IT REALLY IS AN HIGH EXPLOSIVE, I know this because I'm an pyrotecnic. Molotov cocktails are often used in the army, they canblow up holw rooms, and if the fire on the rage hits the inside of the jar youre dead. Sparklers are another high explosive, thats why they are illigal, they can detonate and blow your whole arm off. M-80 can blow up for no specific reason, the gun powder(AKA BLACK POWDER) is extremely unstable. Match heads are also as unstable as gunpowder, it can even ignite under it's own weight. Nitrogen triiodide is also unstable. Thermite can detonate with a powerful heat and force but it can only be detonated with magnesium. Pottasium nitrate can even blow up if you just leave it there. SO, DO NOT BE DOING THESE FIREWORKS!

Topic by tickytickytackytac    |  last reply


Warning to anyone who does explossives

As a former pyrotechnician, I fell like I must war people how dangerouse this shit is. Black powder is a high explosive and can be detonated with a slight impact of a feather. Flash powder is EXTREMELY DANGEROUSE, IT CAN BE DETONATED WITH OUT SPECIFIC REASONS. AMMOUNIUM NITRATE Is also another highly unstable high explosive, it can be set of even if you drop it. Gasoline is a high EXPLOSIVE, it just takes a spark to detonate. That why they are use in cars! DON"T LISTEN WHAT THESE OTHER PEOPLE SAY ABOUT GAS NOT BEING AN EXPLOSIVE, IT REALLY IS AN HIGH EXPLOSIVE, I know this because I'm an pyrotecnic. Molotov cocktails are often used in the army, they canblow up holw rooms, and if the fire on the rage hits the inside of the jar youre dead. Sparklers are another high explosive, thats why they are illigal, they can detonate and blow your whole arm off. M-80 can blow up for no specific reason, the gun powder(AKA BLACK POWDER) is extremely unstable. Match heads are also as unstable as gunpowder, it can even ignite under it's own weight. Nitrogen triiodide is also unstable. Thermite can detonate with a powerful heat and force but it can only be detonated with magnesium. Pottasium nitrate can even blow up if you just leave it there. SO, DO NOT BE DOING THESE FIREWORKS!

Topic by tickytickytackytac  


Would it be safe or applicable to make Airsoft goggles from soda bottles?

I was recently working on This Instructable when I realized something. I was pumping up soda bottles to very high temperatures, and then shooting them with guns to make them explode, you know, for the lulz. I tried to set the targets off with an array of powerful Airsoft guns, and they would simply not explode, or leak, or dent, or really do anything but go *plink*. These bottles were pressurized at about 80 PSI, and I was shooting at pretty close range (okay, closer that was really safe, but let's just disregard that right now) and nothing happened to the bottles. This got me thinking. I depresssurized the bottles, and went after them at a range of about half an inch with all of my Airsoft guns. Not a scratch. The plastic in these bottles is clear and flexible. My basic question is this: do you think it would be safe to make these bottles into goggles for Airsoft? I have been wanting to build some different masks for a while, to my own design, but the lenses have always been a problem, because they are expensive, inflexible, and cannot be easily cut or shaped. This bottle material is clear, practically free, appears to be just as tough, and can be layered without any visual distortion. What say you, Instructables?

Topic by ilpug    |  last reply


DIY Metal Rubber Band Gun

This rubber band gun works just like the wooden ones you've probably seen. The difference is that this is made of metal, has a safety, and includes a flashlight and laser sight. OK, just a wee bit over the top, but impressive. via bbgadgets

Topic by fungus amungus    |  last reply


For All You (model) Gun-Nuts, You Want A Gun?! I'll Give You A Gun!!!

If you like K'nex, but hate trying to come up with ideas for really real K'nex weapons? Well have no fear, Thomas Cooper (and others) are here!!! I know what you are thinking, "How can this be?" or, "That's impossible!", but its true.Actually, its not K'nex, its Lego-ah-wait a sec! These guns are uber real and eject shells (yes, they actually fire [poorly *25 ft*]) Although the instructions are sparse, if you look for them (e.g. on the aforementioned Thomas Cooper page) you will find them, and boy is it worth it.Without further ado, the link (actually TC's page)http://www.mocpages.com/home.php/4182WARNING! THESE GUNS TAKE A LOT OF LEGOS, so be prepared for a long build and (if you dont have a lot, lot of Legos [yes, that was intended]) a lot of scrounging for pieces.So, I hope you enjoy these guns, but dont get mad at me if the instructions aren't extremely clear (I'm not even a member of MOC pages)(sorry, no pics)

Topic by ILIKEPIE333    |  last reply


Unofficial Safety Committee: What are we? Organization? Etc?

.  Judging by the number of ppl that have signed on to this group, it looks like there is enough interest to see about really doing something. .  In no particular order or importance: 1) Need name for org.  Do we need Pres/VP/&c;? 2) Who in group can give out which "awards"? More than one person? 3) I don't think we need patches - many recipients would see them as awards. I think we should just give as comments to iBles/posts. 4) Need to come up with some guidelines as to what is unsafe enough to deserve a graphic/comment. May want to have a series of small graphics (similar to patches?) such as "High Voltage", "No Safety Procedures/Warnings", &c; 5) I don't think we want to take this too seriously and become pedantic about what is posted, but we want to make sure that no one attempts a dangerous iBle without the proper warnings.

Topic by NachoMahma    |  last reply


Whats better for a potato cannon, ABS or PVC? Answered

Whats better for safety and your wallet?

Question by Xenel    |  last reply


Real Guns/Firearms: Appropriate for Instructables?

I just noticed there are very few instructables and forums relating to real firearms. I know a fair bit about firearms: safety, handling, collecting, investing, maintenance, mild modifications, repair, and use of force. I can produce Ibles related to these topics, and I have a few questions to put in Forums. However, I'm not certain this is the place for that sort of thing. I don't want to do anything to damage the Instructables community. I don't want to bring needless scrutiny upon innocent people. I need feedback as to whether or not these sort of things are appropriate for this site.

Topic by skunkbait    |  last reply


my friend has a old gun and i need to know what kind it is.

All i know about this gun is that it is bolt action, has iron sights and u can make them go from 50 yards to 300 yards. the most interesting thing is the safety mechanism.it has a loop on the back of the bolt action and u can put your finger in it and pull back, then twist, then let it slide back forward and that is how u take off the safety. it is wood and it looks like the clip will hold 5 shells. i do not know what shell it takes. thanks

Question by dbennett7    |  last reply


Welcome to the 'Guns and weaponry' Instructbales group

Hello and welcome to the 'Guns and Weaponry' instructables group, this group focuses on improvised weaponry.i must warn you that some things posted here may be potentially lethal, so do not join this group if you are going to bitch about it.However, most things on here will be relativly harmless, and will not injure anyone too badly.FAQ:Q:What can/cant i post in this group?A:Any TUTORIAL on how to build a firearm / improvised weapon.Not pointless things nothing to do with the group, such as 'how to post pictures on your instructables acount' they do not fit in here, perhaps another group.Q:What kind of guns do you mean?A: Firearms, airsoft guns, pellet guns, spud guns, cannons.a gun that propels something out of the barrel. Not tatoo guns ect.Q:What does 'improvised' weaponry mean?A: IMPROVISED weaponry is something edited or made to do the same job as a weapon. ECT. sharpened stones to a knife-like sahpe for cutting > Improvised knife.Ok, rant over. :) Kids, dont kill yourself doing any of this please.Enjoy people.

Topic by Camster911    |  last reply


Semi auto

OK my Dad took a hand-gun safety coarse and he got to use a Semi Auto, He learned how it was semi auto. when you cock it once it loads a bullet and the firing pin is pulled back. Bang you fire! the the recoil from the gun re-cockes the gun!and you fire and so on!

Topic by Metal4God    |  last reply


"Shanti" bow

My newest project, the "Shanti" bow, or the D-TAB v1 (dual-turret assault bow)  Brings out a whole new era of shotbows.  The D-TAB v1 uses a turret for optimum performance.  What is unique about this bow, however, is that it uses two turrets, firing them simultaneously.  It also uses the very first compound bow system that I have seen in knex.  This gives it an extra thrust of power while the firing pin is accelerating to the turrets.  This is truly my greatest creation yet (but I had to take apart my prized hell slayer :( p.s. build that gun!), and will continue to get better.  Unlike zak and his "sexbow", I will be posting this.  Here are a few pics and a video should be up shortly.  Let me know what ya think. Video: www.youtube.com/watch Pros. -Turrets for performance and quick reload -Great range (havent measured yet but I'm guessing around 50ft with the bands used-you can add much more) -Compound bow system -Textured foregrip -Perfect war gun -SK's easy to use ram and guide Cons. -Inaccurate at range Credit:   Credit goes to s0lekill3r for ram, ram guide and frame Credit also goes to knexfreek for the trigger (though I probably be using a different one because I can't find a way to put a safety on his)

Topic by Kinetic    |  last reply


Safety of your garage door or car remote...

No time and no pics for a proper Instructable, so I just put out some word of warning ;) Around here bad people take advantage of the fact that a lot of new houses have the garage right next to the house. With these you usually also get a door so when you park your car you don't have to get out of the garage again. All controlled by the press of a button on the remote... Some fancy guys got a device working similar to the IM-ME Open Sesame hack a few years back. But unlike the original author the new guys found ways to make money by providing working "universal garage door openers" on dubious websites. Problem with the new model is that it not only fakes a remote with dip switches but also the newer models with so called "rolling code", "intellicode", "changing code" and so on. The old remotes with dip switches should actually by phased out years ago by any owner who values his stuff... But the new models are still deemed secure and next to impossible to hack - well if you trust the advertisement... How does the code hacking work? The old dip switch models allow for a maximum of just over 4000 different codes and come in just 3 or 4 frequency bands. No real problem for anyone with basic electronic and coding skills to hack these - as shown with Open Sesame. The new models all use a so called rolling code, here the remote and opener are paired through 32 bit of ID code and an encrypted part that changes every time. Both remote and opener calculate the next code once a button was pressed or a code received. To overcome reception problems the base usually calculates the next 256 codes in advance - and that is the entry point for bad boys. The illegal device scrambles the frequency detected while storing the code received by the orignal remote. As the door did not open the owner will try to press the button again. Still scrambled to opener does nothing - until the device sends out the first recorded code! Now the owner can drive in and is happy. Of course he still needs to close the garage - again all is scrambled and the code stored as before. You see where this is going.... It is even possible to set the amount of required tries to capture, so in theory a bad guy could get the next 10 or codes in advance for use once the owner is gone out... Worst thing however is that these illegal devices not only open garage doors but also cars as a lot of them use similar systems for their remotes - up to the point of starting the car with it. Took me only 2 hours with Google translate to find a website outside the usual search results that offers these "gadgets", along with WiFi and cell phone jammers, credit card copy devices and more things I don't want know about... What can you do to protect yourself? First check what type of remote your system uses - if there are DIP Switches than replace the remote system or the entire device in favour for something more secure. If you already have a rolling code model that you are far better off but sadly no longer totally safe here. A lost remote should not only be replaced but the old one removed from the system as well - you never know if you just lost it or someone took your remote ;) Alternatives exist, especially if you are not afraid of doing some open heart surgery on the electronics of a garage door opener. You can add a WiFi module and use your mobile phone to open the garage - search Google if you like the idea ;) Another very neat way is using a second transmitter that keeps the relay for activating the opener from working. This can be anything from a BT module paired with your phone or cars BT system over a keycard to numberplate recognition cams. A good system also allows for a "holiday mode" or similar. Here you can set this mode with one remote until you deactivate it with the same remote the system will not react to anything. Great if you leave the house for more than a day or two... As a last resort you can always get a big and angry dog to sleep in your garage.... What if you are renting or a bit limited with the electronics and soldering skills? Not all is lost if you can accept a second remote for added safety. These days you can get plug in converters for your mains voltage outlets that work with a remote control. Unless they use Infra Red for this they are great to disable your opener. Simply plug it in where the power cord for the opener is and then plug the cord into it as well ;) Now you can fully shut off the opener with the press of a button and only if the power outlet is switched on the opener will work. If in doubt you can use a double outlet adapter an extension cord and a night light to indicate wether or not the opener has power. Ok, and what about the door lading from the garage into the house? Well, of course keep it locked and if you are home also keep it locked. At least this way you have some extra time in case someone tries to enter through your garage while you are sleeping ;)

Topic by Downunder35m  


Knex KLS v2 review.

This is Kinetics KLS v2 review. comfort: 8/10 - pretty comfortable, no rods sticking out on the handle. power: 10/10 - excellent power, considering its semi automatic. i got 40ft with 2 #64s. looks: 6/10 - its not the best of looking guns, but looks can be decieving. innovation: 10/10 - fantastic ideas put into this gun like the horizontal magazine, magazine release, locking magazine pusher and its semi automatic. (i also added a safety on mine) accuracy: 7/10 - the shots tend to bounce off to the left and right a bit, but nothing huge. piece usage: 6/10 - it uses quite alot of yellow connectors and green rods for most people. strenght: 8/10 - pretty solid structure, the handle is the weakest part on the whole gun. reliability: 6/10 - very poor magazine feed. you also have to pull the trigger quick to avoid the bullet from just going vertical. overall: 61/80 - Its a really good gun with cool features that you would rarely find in any other gun, its well worth the build! link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Knex-Semi-Automatic-Rifle-The-KLS-V2/

Topic by ~KGB~    |  last reply


Epilog and Pocket sized electronics challenges

Hi, I would like to submit an instructable to the Epilog and Pocket sized electronics challenges. It is a spark/electric arc generator, which has many uses such as using it as a spark gap radio transmitter, igniting flammable gasses or liquids (camping stoves), or using the high voltage to charge capacitors. The circuit is based on that of a DIY stun gun, so the project could be used as a stun gun. In the rules it says the project can't be 'potentially dangerous'. So would this project be disqualified from the challenges for being too dangerous? I would of course warn people not to use it as a stun gun in the instructable.   Thanks in advance :) Detective Inspector Me

Topic by Detective Inspector Me    |  last reply


A real challenge for you K'nexperts

I've had this idea for awhile now though I figured I'd save it for myself. I finally decided I don't really feel up to trying to make one myself. I'll let you do that for me. Basically the idea is a "perfect" war weapon. I'm not sure if the idea will be realistically perfect but the idea sounds cool in general so on with the challenge. Basically the point is to incorporate a close range, medium range, and maybe a long range weapon into one compact package. My idea of this is a pump action, repeating shotgun or easy to reload normal mag gun, a bolt action or turret gun, and possibly a slingshot. I have a paint drawing of my design for the concept for you to look at for an example. You are free to use whatever ideas you want though as long as you have a short and medium-long options. I don't care if you have a slingshot as I don't think they'd be super effective but it would be impressive to see you pulling it off. I will be judging the guns personally. Seeing how I don't have the time to build all of them I'll just have to judge them by first impressions so therefore I will be judging on: Looks- It shouldn't look messy. As long as it's rather clean cut I shouldn't mind too much. Size- I want it as compact as possible. I don't care if you have a stock or not as long as it looks good. Efficiency- Kind of similar to size. I want to see how well you can make the gun work. Effectiveness- I'd appreciate a video or otherwise an honest summary of how it performs. I don't care how far the short range gun can shoot as long as you can dish out some heavy fire. If you choose to add a slingshot, it should be tested with rifled rods (finned). I don't care how big the turret is if you choose to use one but chances are I'll only have enough pieces to make an 8 round turret. The one that I like the best I'll build and review in a video. Be warned I'll probably be harsh (but pretty generous as far as this gun goes if you can get the whole thing working) as I use 5/10 as my average base. 10/10 means that it was executed perfectly so don't expect to get one in any category. So who's up for the challenge? C'mon I want to build a gun like this but am too lazy to do it myself lol. You may proceed to look at my crap paint drawing.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


Large-caliber Sundial

I was wandering the web, looking for information for a future Instructable, when I got ever-so-slightly side-tracked.I came across this blog entry about a bunch of people who made their own, rather unique, sundial:Our friends in the village are building a garden from scratch, to go with their new house. A key part of garden planning is to get the major design "features" sorted out ahead of the planting. One of the things that the boys wanted was a sundial, so work has started there. The plan follows the traditional method of sundial construction, as you will see from the pictures:1. Buy a World War II anti-aircraft gun (preferable the portable kind)2. Put it in the garden.3. Make sure the safety catch is on.4. Invite some like-minded nutters round for a barbecue and get them working the elevation controls.5. Set the barrel to exactly 52 and a bit degrees elevation (to match the latitude of the garden).6. Do some nifty work with a calculator and a compass to figure out where the hour markers go for precise "Northmoor Time".7. Unilaterally declare independence - and if anyone argues....:lol:Link to Blog

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


XM8

OK, so let's face it. I need to post something. I got Battlefield Bad co. 2, and remembered the XM8. Would any of you guys care if I made one? I'll try a mag release, and it'll use blue rods. To warn you- the mag release pretty much requires 2 broken white rods or more in the magazine.        THANKS, BUILDER968

Topic by builder968    |  last reply


EAP Vs. Oodassault V3

Well the oodassault V3 was in part a challenge to DJ at first. I also challenged the comment by KSC that he could and would make a new oodammo pistol that would be better than mine if I were to make a new one. We seemed a little hard-edged at first but we turned it around into a friendly competition. You guys are the judges. The instructions are simple. Just rate the EAP and the Oodassault V3 both out of 5 of how much you liked each of them. I'll count them up when we have plenty of comments. That way we can see ultimately which people not only prefer but how popular overall they were. I personally think it's pretty close. Feel free to tell us what you want us to improve on so that we could try making the perfect oodammo pistol. Please put your ratings at the very beginning of your post and try to limit other comments so that I can total them up easier. EAP and Oodassault shared Pros -Strong structural designs -Triggers built for power -Comfortable Handles -High cap mags -5 layered with few blue rods sticking out -both can be loaded while half loaded. EAP Pros -Probably a bit stronger structurally -Doesn't require as many black Ys -Stronger magazine -Chances of firing more than one or the magazine breaking are slim -Fast front loading -Internal Mag pusher Cons -Bigger -Harder to aim -Uses Wheels for handle -Best requires a modified piece for trigger Oodassault Pros -Pretty compact aside from magazine -Comfortable handle without use of wheels -Tilting mag that locks back -Can accept stripper clips or detaching rod clips -Trigger guard and safety (simple mod I made later. I can explain it if people really want it) -No modded pieces needed Cons -Uses more Black Ys -Less sturdy magazine -Less reliable firing -External Mag pusher

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


OodAst Update 3.5 *Further updated to 3.6*

Well I still didn't feel up to making an entirely new weapon so I tried improving the oodast...again. The main concern with everyone last time was reliability so I fixed that. It's a lot more reliable. I'll spare you the rest of the details until the movie so just watch it. For those who don't want to or can't want watch the video for some reason here's what I did. I changed it to a yellow rod magazine. Tan was alright but really big compared to the rest of the pistol and it left a lot of room for reliability errors. Blue is simply too small for my tastes. This is a nice average. I changed the mag pusher a little so that an extra part extends around the guide rod and it helps keep the pin locked more securely using a "weaker" connection to keep it compact. The magazine was actually moved forward a bit. I'm not sure how much of an increase to range this gave but I guess every few inches can make a difference. The mag "tilter" is now a straight pull back mechansim instead of a push up. I find this a little more comfortable. I also made another minor mod that stills somewhat nice is that I finally made a new safety to work with the version 3 series entirely. It's pretty simple. There's a black hand and a blue cap on the trigger guard bottom facing in opposite directions (don't get in the way of your fingers at all) and when the gun is cocked you can turn the trigger guard so that the blue cap fits in between one of the gaps on the trigger. The black hand provides a fast way to turn off safety by just pushing it back from underneath the guard to the side again. It doesn't get in the way of the tilter slide so you can load the gun while it's cocked without shooting yourself in the face. Sorry no pictures yet. The video should suffice until I get home from school.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


Laser Cartridge dangers?

I'm thinking about messing around with a laser printer cartridge (They're cool, look at them- they're just asking to be made into a laser gun!) Is there any safety concerns I should worry about? (Most likely an HP cartridge, I haven't acquired it yet, I just saw it.) Looks similar to picture.

Question by Doomwaffle    |  last reply


lolyoutubenoobs

Most of us have had this happen. Someone takes a gun of yours they like, modify it a bit, then call it their own without any credit. I'm not too bothered. Flattered actually that people want to claim my guns. Sometimes they just forget to credit people but either way it annoys me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34yljlaUOXY This guy has been bugging me forever on youtube. I know it's a toy but really I'm tired of all the children who must make webcam videos like this. I was really wondering when he'd finally build something of mine. The funny part is he downgraded my oodassault pistol. OK so the safety isn't that big of a deal but what happened to the mag tilting? He has disgraced my Oodassault series >_>

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


Recommendations for safe pneumatics?

I'm looking for a pneumatic setup for an air tank and a blow gun that is safe enough to use around school kids.  I want to provide pneumatic feedback to give the sensation that they were hit by a small gust of wind.  Safety is the foremost concern on this.  What size tank, psi, and regulator should I use?  Also can this small 'gust of wind' be controlled from a USB port?

Question by codingJoe    |  last reply


NEW GRENADE LAUNCHER: H.S.S.P. V3 (Heavy Support Splodie Pistol)

Hello everyone, I yesterday builded this modification of the HSSR, the advantages: - smaller - easier to load and cock - more reliable (less barrel, so less drag) - easier to build disadvantages: - looks less cool (my opinion:P) - less accuracy So I think this gun is better than the rifle version, but also check it (It's an instructable). grtz Infinnion, EXTRA: you can add some grey connectors to the side of the gun to hold splodies. WARNING: I'm not responsible for any damage to urself, your house, your cat. So plz dont shoot at animals or people (or expensive windows:P:P:P).

Topic by Infinnion    |  last reply


Feature request - authoring badges

This is a feature request to allow authors to add info/warning badges to their instructables. As an example 1. These would be icons that appear at say top left of an ible, like you have the medals on top right. 2. An author could add a maximum of three badges. 3. These would be selectable from a predefined set provided by your site. i.e. no custom badges. 4. Viewers could then also filter search results based on these badges as well. 5. Examples of badges would be things like     a. Indicate if special tools have been used or not used e.g. laser cutters, 3D printers, rotary tools, CNC etc. not every user has these.     b. Warn users about materials used e.g. dangerous chemicals (flamable, toxic, corrosive), radiation hazard, special protective gear required e.g. gas masks, this is over and above normal safety precautions.     c. warn about age inappropriate content e.g. adult only or adult supervision required. Depending on user response/requests the collection of badges could be reviewed and enhanced. Regards,

Topic by Mojo_JoJo    |  last reply


TR8-2015 Review

I received my TR from Killerk this morning. I've had a little hands on time with it so I'll write up my text review now, though I'll also be making a video review in the near future. For now, here's the unboxing and first impressions video: So just to start, I've never made a TR before. I have limited experience with turreted weapons. So what I knew about them I only got from videos and other people's reviews. I didn't doubt the TR was a great performing weapon, but I was wondering what all the hubbub was about. After finally messing around with one for the morning, I can see where the praise comes from. I also noted some things I'd still like improved, at least to personalize on my variant.   I'm going to use a grade scheme (because everyone's impressions on stars and scales are usually biased toward higher numbers). So, just to clarify, don't think of C as bad. It's average. I'll point out what's subjective. I'll nitpick a lot of little things, and I'll give credit where credit is due. Anywho, on to the review. Aesthetics: C+ My impression of the TR has always been that it's been a rather simple weapon. I'm a rather hard man to please in this category. The front is a tube barrel construction. I don't care for the looks of turrets because they're rather chunky for the amount of ammo they take up. The stock is a little skeletony. And it seemingly has weird support pieces thrown in random places. But it's not bad. It still looks like a good weapon. The stock has a nice design. It has a relatively clean cut design around the outside. Ultimately, I know most was for the sake of a strong, durable weapon, and I'll be sure to personalize it more.   Ergonomics: D+ This one I gotta be honest on. The handle just doesn't float my boat. My hands are shaped oddly so I've always made weird sorts of handles myself. While the tires are a cool concept, they help keep your grip on the weapon, and I thought they'd be comfortable, their edges tends to stick out and dig into my hands. They also bulk up handle in a way that my hand just doesn't easily fit it. Like, I know my Oodassault's handle is also rather big, but my hand still fit around it naturally with a flat back and indents around around my thumb and point finger web. But this is something I can customize in the future, so it's not the end of the world by any means. I can still use it as is without being in total pain.  The trigger is a bit different. Not uncomfortable, but not the way I like triggers. Something I'll want to change, but I don't want to compromise its strength, so I'm going to keep analyzing it. The stock is a bit compact. This is yet another preference thing, but I'd like it at a slightly longer length. The charging handle isn't too comfortable to use either. With the rear sight integrated into it, it's a bit difficult to get a good grip on, which is important when you have the bands loaded up on it.  And again, this is subjective so I'm sure I can improve it for my preferences and it'll be just fine. I otherwise appreciate what Killerk attempted here. The front grip on the other had is rather comfortable. I don't think I'll need to change that ever. Ease of Use: B Things look up from here. The ratchet mechanism wasn't immediately obvious to me, but with previous K'nexing experience, I figured it out. Still, I wouldn't trust a newbie to be able to pick it up and know how to use that part specifically without direction. So that's part of the reason it's not a higher grade, but again, nitpicking. It's otherwise incredibly useful to be able to wind the band without turning the turret itself. It lets you load ammo and then just twist the ratchet, which isn't too difficult, to make sure it loads after each shot.  When I change the charging handle to be more comfortable, I'll appreciate it much more. Having a charging handle on a weapon loaded up with a lot bands makes it a lot easier to use. The rail guides and the pin guide are all perfectly constructed to make sure it's a smooth, straight pullback.  On that note, back to the stock from an ease of use perspective, because it's a bit shorter than I'd like, I don't feel like I have proper leverage on the charging handle. It's one thing I like about pistols, being able to use both arms to pull apart the gun and the pin to make it easier to draw. For this weapon, it's recommended to shoulder the stock and push back against you, which would be a little easier for me with a longer stock. It probably won't be a problem for others. Overall, I think someone strong enough could pick it up and, with a little direction, figure it out pretty quickly. It's something I could easily teach a friend how to use and then they shouldn't have a problem with it. Reliability: A This is one of the areas where the TR shines. It's only not perfect because of a few possible things you can do to mess it up. Now, to be fair, I haven't fired it enough to have a misfire, but I doubt that'll ever be a problem. The nature of the turret itself means that you shouldn't have any problems. However, I'd worry about little things like bumping the turret in such a way it skips a round. The power transfer pins offer a point of failure for the gun if you're not careful. Removing a round requires you to manually push back in the pin to avoid accidentally firing off an empty chamber, which I can imagine might be bad. I'm also a wee bit skeptical about the trigger setup but it hasn't failed on me. I may want to make a safety mechanism for this weapon, though. Something that wouldn't allow the trigger to move out of the way of the pin at all. Construction: A-  It's pretty dang solid. I did notice (more nitpicking) that the handle connection creaks a little bit. So it's not perfectly solid, but Killerk did a pretty good job at constructing this in such a way there shouldn't be many points of failure. It held up in shipping after all. There are some odd support structures here and there, but then some areas that are either neglected, or he just didn't care about. Honestly, I have no idea what he added because he thought it was necessary, what he added because it looked cool, and what he added just because he could. So there are some things I might change for the sake of consistency and aesthetics, but it's otherwise something I'd trust be able to drop, pickup, and use just fine. I'd only worry about dropping it right on the turret.  Performance: A+ This is the one area you can say is perfect for the TR. Basically, it's designed to maximize power, and finned ammo are designed to be stable, thus increasing range and accuracy. The tube barrel minimizes the snag on the pin from hitting any gaps and gives the gun a solid mounting point for bands. The turret treats each round as a single shot. The length of the charging distance is maximized while still being practical. It's as good as you can do for a pin gun, and it's as accurate as you can make K'nex ammo with minimal modification/using entirely different materials.  Overall Thoughts as a War Weapon:  I'm not going to grade this because there's so much opinion thrown in here, it wouldn't be fair. I can see where this thing would be everyone's weapon of choice. It has an 8 round capacity, which seems limiting, but you can reload whenever you happen to find ammo, so in theory it shouldn't be a problem until you're rushed with low ammo. If fin ammo is allowed, then clearly it's the best you can do for a repeater at the moment. Without it, it's got the most effective range you'll possibly find for a pin gun, though it's just not as easy for me to prime as a pistol. It's a weapon more about picking your shots instead of dishing them out as fast as possible. I'll need to do some raw comparisons with my Oodassault pistol to see which I'd prefer after I see all the differences. For example, what if the range really does make a difference compared to the ease of recharging? I'll just have to make it to a war with both weapons sometime and see which I do better with. Overall Thoughts as a Fun Weapon: Its main novelty is the range and accuracy you get in a repeater. It's satisfying to shoot multiple rounds down range and hit your target with ease. Other than that, it's mostly featureless. It's not something I'd dink around with in the house (mostly out of fret of damaging the walls). It might impress my friends the first time they see it and how far it fires. The ratchet mechanism might also be cool to show. But after that, there isn't much wow factor. Not that you'd need much more. It shoots hard. That's all you'll need to wow someone with plastic and rubber bands. I'm personally the kind of guy that likes having things like realistic charging handles, removable magazines, adjustable stocks, etc. just for novelty's sake, but that's just me. This is a no-nonsense weapon built for performance, and in that regard it does very well. I'll keep mine around and make small modifications to it. I won't deconstruct it for pieces to make other weapons. It'll be nice to have a raw performance weapon around all the time so I can focus on new concepts without think "I wish I had something that fired well, I'm going to rebuild my Oodassault." So it's fun enough to be worth keeping.  Overall, I'd highly recommend making it at least once just to experience it, see what it's all about. If you enjoy performance, taking highly accurate and ranged shots at targets, you'll appreciate it. It's also pretty modular in that if you keep its base construction intact, you can personalize it reasonably well. Better weapons can be built just for the sake of having fun, so it's not something everyone might want to keep permanently, but if you have the pieces, I think a lot of people will like to keep it around, as many already have.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


Can the tubing in roller coaster sets be converted for k'nex gun use?

I know I have not asked questions like this for a while.... but I  just wondered if any of you guys can figure this one out for me.I've had this on my mind for quite some time now. I've always wondered of the advantages and possibilities of using the roller coaster tubing from k'nex sets for different purposes. Imagine what k'nex guns in the future would have.The tubing has many different uses, such as:comfy grips for handles,new/advanced tactical rail systems,tranquilizer darts for k'nex crossbows/shotbows,gun/body designs and many other things.Unfortunately, I don't have any k'nex sets nor do I own any tubing. Frankly I can't carry out these ideas, someone else will have to do it. If they want to make these ideas exist. whoever does make instructions, I would be more than happy to give credit. I'm just giving ideas for the plausible uses of roller coaster tubing, that's all. I WILL NOT TOLERATE CRITISIZM OF ANY KIND TOWARDS COMMUNITY QUESTIONS THAT I POST.I DON'T CARE IF IT'S POSITIVE OR NEGETIVE,WHETHER IT IS DIRECTED AT ME OR MY QUESTIONS.IF I SEE ANY OF THIS GARBAGE I WILL START DELETING COMMENTS.YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!

Question by heatblast    |  last reply


Review: Sharir1701's Bushmaster M17S

Sharir1701's M17S is truly a pretty gun. Even my mom said so, but it does have its draw backs. In this review, I am going to do my best to give you the pros and cons of this gun, so that you can decide weather to build it or not. Now, the gun might be somewhat outdated, but it is pretty cool all the same. First off, let us talk about the cons, as those will really be the things you will really want to see. Cons: Looks: He stated in the 'ible of his M17S that "this is my bushmaster m17s replica thats like 95% perfect as a replica..." but I quite disagree. The barrel area is not quite accurate. His is too thick, the barrel is WAY two small (though, I admit, with his setup it would be pretty hard  to edit that), his trigger guard is not quite curved enough, and the handle is curved way to far. The carrying handle is not high enough, and the attachment bar is too block like. The butt-stock area is horrid. it is not flat on top, it is WAY too big, and it does not have the right types of curves. Mechanism: The mechanism does not always block the FP, and the safety does not always work. The mag lock is also a waste, as the mag stays in fine with out it. Piece Consumption: This gun is VERY piece consuming, and took up almost all of my orange connecters, green rods, and dark grey connecters (even with my attempts at piece saving). This is not really a disadvantage to the gun its self, but just keep that in mind. I am sure there are MANY ways to fix this as a problem. Now to the pros. Pros: Looks: Looks good over all, but again, not very accurate. Comfy, and yet sturdy, this gun is not at all a wast of time! Mechanism: The mechanism on this gun is FANTASTIC. I love the way it works, and the mech is quite effective (minus the disadvantage above). All of the mechs are easy, work great, and are VERY "smartly" done. Effective overall. Range: Fantastic! With a couple rubber bands you have your self an effective gun! Overall: This gun is so much fun to build and to mess around with. It's big, sturdy, has great range, has great mechs, and is just awesome overall. I would love to see this gun's mechs thrown into a concept gun/fake gun. Hope this helps you out. And as always, rate, comment and subscribe!

Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch    |  last reply


How to go about building a Capacitor Bank for rail gun? Answered

Hi, For my physics 2 class our group has decided to build a rail gun. I went to my local Walgreen's and asked for used disposable cameras and the guy was glad to get rid of 20 and give them to me. I researched what "general" specifications for flash capacitors was and it was 330V and holds 270 uF. Before i go about building this bank I have a few questions. 1) From what I understand, you can add capacitors in series to increase the potential difference. ie. for 2 330V capacitors hooked up in series would be capable of 660V and would hold  135 uF (let me know if my math is wrong). My question is that I've heard to be careful and not exceed a capacitor's voltage rating. Is this considered "overloading" the capacitors voltage rating since the bank will be be trying to achieve a max of 660V? 2) Assuming that (1) will not overload the capacitors, what voltage is best to operate a rail gun at, Ive heard that "high-voltage" is best, and Ive seen most around 400V. It seems pointless to hook up 2 capacitors in series to gain this 70V of potential difference, would it be useful in trying to achieve a greater voltages (ie. 500 or 600)? and would I even want to get to 500 or 600 Volts. 3) My goal is to eventually get a semi-large bank with these capacitors having all 20 of them used in the bank. Ive thought of two configurations, one only being possible if (1) will not overload the capacitors. 1) (660V) to have 2 sets of 10 capacitors. Each individual set will be hooked up in parallel acting as a single capacitor, and then in series with each other. The outcome bank (correct me if I'm wrong) would be 660V and 1350uF. 2) (330V) to have All 20 capacitors hooked up in parallel. The outcome bank would be (again, correct me if I'm wrong) 330V and 5400uF. Which would be more optimal? I will NOT go strait into building the full bank, will probably try 6 first and work my way up as I get more comfortable. 3) I'm not sure if all will be rated exactly the same. If some were rated at slightly different voltage ratings and capacitance ratings does this affect my configuration? 4) I was going to use a voltmeter to measure the Potential Difference when charging the capacitors, what is the best way to go about charging a bank like this? Ive heard that by using a singe camera circuit you can achieve this, but at slow rates... what would be a good (preferably cheap) way of going about this? 5) I've heard of capacitors sometimes discharging at the switch. How do I prevent this? 6) (MOST IMPORTANT) How do I safely discharge a bank? What important safety precautions should I take when building this.

Question by Epond89    |  last reply


Newcomer

Hi everyone, Mortarion here. I have been ghosting around instructables for about a month now, and finally decided to get an account. I will eventually post up some gun designs and so on but for a while I will just comment on upcoming stuff and start things in the forums. Hope you are accepting, from the earlier forum posts I have seen, you have been trying to get new people to sign up for a while to no avail, a warning though, I have almost no gunbuilding pieces ATM, all i have iis 3D connectors for another 5 months or so (Christmas will be here eventually. My thanks to Oblivitus who, although I haven't told him before now, is the inspiration behind me finally starting up. Nice work on the CS3. Mortarion Out.

Topic by Mortarion_DPON    |  last reply


How to safely open up hifi separates?

Hi there, I'm currently using a raspberry pi and LCD as a jukebox with Volumio. I was hoping to tidy it up in a nice enclosure and have found a broken digital tuner which I hope to recycle. The casing does display a warning of electric shocks so thought I'd ask for your advice! I've never really fiddled around with mains powered devices before, so are there any things I should watch out for, safety-wise? I'm only intending to remove the non-working electronics inside, not to make any adjustments to them. Thanks in advance

Question by clairey    |  last reply


ZKAR Review and Mods

So I recently built the ZKAR V2 by Zak on KI. Direct link: http://knexinnovation.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t;=711 My mods: Safety Comfort in the front Pusher mod What to expect with above mods: (out of 10(ratings not in parentheses are with above mods and ratings in parentheses are with out above mods)): Looks: 9 (8) - Could do without the trigger piece on the top of the gun. Comfort: 8 (7) - I have not modded the handle, and the pin guide is kind of in the way of sighting. Ease of Use: 10 (9) - All you need to do is pull then push the bolt(with the exception of going slower than usual) and loading the mag is very easy. Coolness: 10 (9) - True bolt action, safety, and stupendous power and accuracy. Will "blow" your freinds away! Piece consumption: 8 (8) - Uses quite a few pieces, and before DJ Radio got a shipment of knex, he couldn't build it. *Note: These next three are with 1 big, red rubberband(about 3/4 a centimeter wide) from a slingshot kit* Power: 8 (8) - From thirty feet away, my sister said she could feel a slight sting for a second. Could be better, but still very good. And, can penetrate cardboard from 25 feet. Accuracy: 8 (8) - 38 feet Range: 9 (9) - flat-45 feet angled-70 feet Overall: 70 out of 80 Average rating: 8.5 Great as a... Primary rifle: 8 - Could be a little better, but it is very cool. Secondary: 5 - very bulky and large piece amount. Just a fun gun to play with: 10 - Very fun. If you would like me to P0$T the safety and comfort mod, just let me know.

Topic by chopstx    |  last reply


Prop Help!!

Hi, I am working as a crew member for the musical Little Shop of Horrors. We need to trigger a confetti blast, a strobe and a sound clip to play with an 8th of second of each other. I was thinking of using a paintball gun (without paint balls) hooked up to a solenoid (or motor with a cam) linked to a computer controlled relay. The plan would be is to use a some wading to launch the confetti out of the gun and have the strobe only blink once right as the sound was triggered. Also we are not allowed to use real pyrotechnics because the madison fire department sucks (safety first, i know). So I guess we could use ether a paintball gun, or an air compressor that is located off stage with a really long line. Also it needs to all fit on a cart the size of a bed side table. So, how should we control them? Computer controlled relay or something else? Also if possible we would like to make the whole thing go off remotely. Either using RF or inferred. Worst case scenario is a small wire that singers/dance wont trip over and die. All suggestions and comments are welcome!! Please comment with any ideas no matter how simple of difficult!! Thanks in advance.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Joe Rowley

Topic by joejoerowley    |  last reply


Not Liable name change

When we released categories in April my intention was to help people find more Instructables that fit their interests. We carefully chose eight categories that broadly represented the site, and encouraged cross-over by allowing Instructables to be in two categories. I imagined that the categories would change and grow with time: If we saw an influx of Instructables of a certain type that couldn't be accommodated by the sub-category keywords, we'd create a new category.Not Liable was intended for all things that required a safety warning, and it was us thumbing our nose at our overly litigious society. I love the Not Liable category; many of the projects are inspiring, ridiculous, hilarious, and completely irreverent. However, over the past few months it seems that the specific name Not Liable isn't a great fit for the Instructables that show up there. Also, the focus on caution, safety, and "I am not liable for your actions..." attracts two types (at least two, maybe more) of Instructables that aren't a great fit, and just shouldn't be there at all. First, there are the Instructables that require some discussion of safety, but safety isn't a defining characteristic. For example, if a project involves making a book shelf with a table saw, the author should mention that table saws require care, but this doesn't make it a Not Liable Instructable. On the other hand, safety is at the very core of an Instructable on breathing fire. Second, many people misunderstand the meaning of the name, and assume it's a category only for things that might be illegal or immoral. I firmly believe that information should never be illegal, but there are projects that will never make good Instructables, and some people interpret Not Liable as a call for those projects. Also, Not Liable has always rubbed my aesthetic sense the wrong way: It's our only two-word category! So, I propose to change the name of the category to better reflect the Instructables already there, and as a way to encourage more Instructables of the type we want. When we transition, we'll add a "Not Liable" keyword to various Instructables to seed a proper Not Liable sub-category.So, give us a hand coming up with a new name, and tell us your thoughts.Brainstorm of potential ideas:AudaciousBizarreBrazenDeviantEccentricEdgeFreakyFunkyImprudentIrreverentOffbeatOutrePerverseShenanigansWarped

Topic by ewilhelm    |  last reply