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handle bar and motor for skate boards experimental

Handle bar and motor for skate boards experimental

Topic by c p skeates  


How to sew leather handlebars ?

Anyone knows how to hand sew leather handlebars ? I'd be glad if someone could post an 'ible about it. Thanks.

Topic by lordofthedonuts    |  last reply


Interesting TAP handle tech question \ quest.

Here's a weird one for  you guys. I recently bought a Beer tap handle and noticed that it had an insert that had some LEDs on it. Cool. The problem is that the LEDs don't light (beyond a tiny SMD red LED heartbeat). I found a small button that when depressed seems to trigger a test. Bright white LEDs on the top and bottom flash to illumnnate the top of the tap (either a clear baseball or FIFA tap topper) as well as the body. It's hollow plastic so it briefly glows. The problem is that I can't figure out how to light the things beyond the test (for which you have to remove it from the handle). The guy who sold it to me said they've sold lots like this and could never figure it out. I figured light sensor? nope. Tilt sensor so it'll flash when you pour a beer. Nope. I broke out  my loupe and noticed a funky thing on the circuit board that looked like it had an antenna. It was an Anaren A1101R09A. This thing is a radio tranceiver!  That tells me there was a remote with it that was lost in the few days after they bar got their new tap handle. Does that sound right? If so I was wondering where I could get or build another. I could put together some other LED solution, but I'd love to get this to work. HEre's a pic of the tap handle and the insert laying on it's side. The right side is the up side with the transceiver. It's blue if you look closely. Not sure I'll get a solution, but there's some clever people here, so you never know. Thanks for reading.

Topic by mcgary911    |  last reply


how do I change the colour of my progress bar from green to ?? Windows XP?

The bar I refer to is the progress line that goes across the screen as installation takes place. The green is horrible and I would prefer a nicer colour. I can handle the registry if that is what's neccessary. Regards/.

Question by hiramkwill    |  last reply


Convert A Road Bike

Is it possible to convert a road bike to make it more touring friendly/comfortable? Changing handle bars, tires etc? I'll post a photo of my bike tomorrow.

Topic by janesbigdream    |  last reply


Interactive Surface creation, minimal implementation

Hey guys!This is my very first post in this awesome community. I am not a native make so please forgive me if I may cause any misundestarning with my post.I stumbled upon this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvtfD_rJ2hEI started to thinking about creating a simpler version of this, with someones face as a 3D model projecting. My background is in computer vision, so I can handle very well the 3d reconstruction of someone's face from a 2D image.My problem is that I cannot seem to find a way to create the mechanism that will raise those bars and what those bars are going to be made of. Does anyone has any clue on how to create a simple mechanism with not a very complex design?PS: I can handle very well raspberries pi, motors and software.

Topic by konsalex    |  last reply


how doi attach a one wheeled bike trolley to a bike? tips, ideas new ideas to make it better = much apretiated. :)

Can i use a set of old handle bars or something?? i havent got many new things,. its kind of a scrap heap diy job, but the trolley itsself if fine, just i dont know how many points to connect it on or where.. etc..

Question by mulligan    |  last reply


need to cut a hole in an altoids tin? Answered

Right so im trying to make a speaker system for my bicycle and i have some smaller speakrs that i want to use an altoids tin as the box to mount on handle bars, but  i dont know what tool to use to cut the holes the speakers im guessing are about 1.5 inches in diameter.    or smaller.  anyone got any suggestions?

Question by unaffiliatedperson    |  last reply


My classroom projector screen will not retract all the way without considerable effort, how can I fix it?

Humorous to my students, aggravating to me... With several attempts, I can assist the retraction spring by lifting the screen into the storage part and have it rolled up enough that I can rest the handle and... bar, for lack of a better term, on top of a bulletin board.  Is there an easy fix or should I just start looking for funds for a new screen?

Question by LivingDread    |  last reply


would this bike idea work?

I have an idea for a bike, where you lay down to use it, sort of like a recumbent, except on your stomach instead. it would be motor powered, and have 2 back tires and one front tire, steered by two steel (or maybe some other material) cables directly attached to the handle bars via a smaller bar at the bottom of the handle bars. it would probably have 48v's worth of batteries, and the chassis would most likely be made out of PVC piping. (unless that isnt a good material for this) i would be designing the bike around me, there might be a camera display so i can see behind me, headlights and tail lights for at night, and most definitely some brakes, maybe disc brakes. i weigh about 100lbs, so the pvc piping should be able to support my weight, i was thinking of using 1.5" or 2" diameter pvc piping, should i use something with a wider diameter? the base of the chassis would be made from 4 pvc pipes arranged in a square, with the pipes about 2"-4" apart. does anyone think this design is totally impossible? or could it work out? i want to know before i buy anything. on the strength of pvc pipes, my friend once had a pvc bike trailer that was capable of supporting my weight, he has since taken it apart to use the pvc in other projects. it was 2" pvc pipes used on that trailer.

Question by zack247    |  last reply


Contest : Bike Weapons

I was hoping to pimp out my bike with James Bond esque weapons. An example would be a way to deploy oil, tacks, smoke, or water out the back of the bike. Rockets wouldn't be so bad either. Mines or flame thrower would be great. Try mounting the control box on the handle bars. I do have basic Oxy-acetylene setup that is good for all around jobs. I also have black powder and other chemicals like KNO3. Please leave a picture below of the project with details, plans, etc. etc. I know there are a lot of bright minds out there who would find this fun and challenging project tailor-made for them.

Topic by DELETED_M4industries    |  last reply


Anyone know how to build a 2 way radio into your motorbike helmut?

Looking to take apart a set of 2 way radios (walkie Talkies) and put them into my helmet (and my Mates) so that we can comunicate on the road. Looking to have the "talk" button on the handle bar, the main body of the walkie talkie on the "dash" and then a wire running up to the helmet (with a disconnection piece) and then build the ear piece into the inside helmet. Any one got any ideas or has anyone done this before. I know I can buy them but here in South Africa they are very expensive. Thanks

Question by saffa    |  last reply


Can I make a wired HUD(Helmet) from my sony camcoders AV out to a 2/3 incLCD?

I have a sony cx 110 , and want to use its AV out to a small LCD to make like a HUD. Actually i will mount the camcoder to any place (helmet, handle bar Etc), I need to see wht is it recording . Can i use any digital camera's scrapped lcd for this purpose.if so how do i connect it to the AV pin from camcoder. Is there any 2/3 in LCD available with AV input and a independant power source. Regards

Topic by nagendrasurya  


I would like to make a simple machine that allows me to roll newspaper logs tightly?

You know those log making machines you can get that let you make your own logs? Well I have seen some amazing furniture made with very tightly rolled newsapers that is so strong that when knocked together it sounds like metal bars. The machine would need to have 3 rollers and a handle for turning the top roller. the loosely rolled newspaper would sit on another 2 rollers and be rolled like a giant hand-rolled cigarette until it was tightly packed into a rod. I wondered if there was some way of either making this from scratch or improvising something? Thanks.

Question by merimaid    |  last reply


Idea: motorized cocktail shaker (for a real Ramos Gin Fizz)

There are a couple of motorized martini shakers on the market, but neither of them shake hard enough. I'd like to make one that would simulate the actual motion of a good bar tender. The traditional way to make a Ramos Gin Fizz requires shaking it for 12 minutes. I don't have that kind of endurance. For a martini, I'd like the machine to shake hard enough to chip the ice and leave frost floating in the drink. 1. I'm wondering if an electric drill would be capable of driving this thing with modifying the gearbox. I have no experience creating or modifying gearboxes and would like to avoid that if possible. 2. Anyone out there have (or want to make) a good video of a bartender shaking the hell out of a cocktail? (There is a difference between a casual and an agressive shake.) It needs to be from a perspective perpendicular to the plane of motion. This will allow me to trace the path and recreate it in CAD software. 3. The most exciting thing about this is designing the elliptical mechanism that would produce the realistic shake. I've never done animation in SketchUp. Can it handle gears and levers? Is there something else that you recommend? (no windows software please) I'd love any suggestions you have on any part of this.

Topic by RichardBronosky    |  last reply


Spring-loaded cannon

My friend and I are considering building a spring loaded cannon. The idea right now is to have a pvc pipe for the cannon chamber, and pvc pipes flanking it to hold springs in parallel. A cross-bar will go through all 3 pipes through slits cut long ways in the pipe. The springs will be attached to some point forward in the flanking pipes and to the cross bar, which will be used to pull the springs back and, once released, will launch the dart/ball in the center tube. My research so far - the spring rates of springs loaded in parallel are additive. With 5x 10-in*lb springs, we can produce 667 newtons of force when pulled back 3 inches (springs in question are 5.5 in long) . That will produce an acceleration of 303 m*s^2 on a 1 lb (2.2 kg) albeit for only a fraction of a second. http://www.amazon.com/Extension-Spring-5-625-Long-080-count/dp/B001292S08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s;=industrial&qid;=1257718057&sr;=1-1 These are the springs we're looking at. We'll need to use an even number of springs, so either 4 or 6 (or 8 or 10). So, what do you guys think? Practical? Will we be able to get any distance? Any suggestions? A ROUGH picture is shown below. === are spring tubes, | are handles, and left arrows indicate direction in which springs will be stretched, and the right arrow is a dart flying out of the center launch tube. <----| ===== XXXXXXXXX     ------> ===== <----|

Topic by chs9    |  last reply


Switch Design Issues?

Okay, so I've been working on a prop for a Team Fortress 2 Medic costume, and I've run into a fairly major problem with the wiring of the Medigun. I have everything figured out, except the triggering mechanism for most of the LEDs. In-game, the "trigger" is a pivoting handle, such as one that operates a valve on a firehose. The problem is that I have no idea how to find/install a switch that will activate when the lever (indicated below) is pushed forward. I'm still trying to decide how to install the switch, but as long as the switch is active through a given angle, the installation shouldn't be too difficult to negotiate. Another problem is finding appropriate switches with low actuation forces, but that's an entirely different issue. So, where could I buy that sort of switch, or barring that, how can I make one that will hold up decently well? Thanks in advance!

Topic by bensciguy    |  last reply


Update on the layered metal weapons/props

Hello to everyone who took the time to read this update/list. So I have not forgotten about my promise to upload the Solidworks files and cutting plans. However that will be taking a backseat to finals until summer break. I will however go ahead and list off the items finished, in progress, on hold, or currently only in Solidworks form. Finished -6in Axe: 3lb head on an oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -3in Tomahawk/Axe: 1.25lb head on a para cord wrapped 1/4in steel flat bar about 20in long total -27in BoneSplitter: 3.2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in BoneCracker: 2lb aluminium reinforced steel construction. -18in All steel BoneCracker: 3.5lb steel reinforced steel construction. More square handle and better center of balance than previous version In progress -10in Bearded Axe: 3.25lb head. To be mounted on oak clad 1/4in steel flat bar handles 18in, and 30in long. -10in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have bevels, and fullers ground plus handle and guard mounted. -8in blade Pugio: Model made of mild steel for practice and training. Needs to have concave edges, bevels, and fullers ground plus and guard mounted. On hold -14in Blade tester: Simple test bed modeled after BoneSplitter to test viability of various band saw blades(Metal and Wood cutting) for use as cutting edge for mild steel blade carriers. On hold due to the band saw blades being too hard to drill through. Only existing as Solidworks files --27in Revised BoneSplitter: 4.5lb Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Better center of mass and more square handle than MY           previous version. --37in blade Bastard sword: Aluminium reinforced steel construction. Should be very close in terms of center of balance and stiffness when compared to its hardened steel companions.  --20in blade Stacked steel Gladius: Twin riveted steel support plates with detoothed metal cutting bands saw blade used for striking edges.  --blade Hispaniensis Gladius: Single piece of metal for the blade. --blade Cinquedea: Single piece of metal for blade. Multi fuller blade. --8in blade Pugio curved: Same as other 8in Pugio except for the convex curved dagger tip --14in blade Spear from Fullmetal Alchemist: May upload the variant of this in which the "wings" are separate pieces of metal. --3.25in square Warhammer: 8.5lb head Assembled from 13 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --5.25 square Warhammer: 16.25lb head Assembled from 21 1/4in steel plates pinned together. Front is covered in 3/8in spikes poking through a steel striking face to prevent separation of the plates. Back end is a 4in spike. --Straight edged War Axe: 7lb head Inspired by Ironclad Industries' Riftclaw. Made from 7 1/4in steel plates pinned together. I am aware that the riveted and pinned construction of these items makes them inherently less durable and less corrosion resistant than single piece construction. However I am a college student who is working with mostly scraps and whatever has to be purchased. Since mild steel thick enough to carve the Warhammers or War Axe is not common scrap material around the college's machine shop the only way to economically create them is to use stacked plate construction. As for the BoneSplitter, BoneCracker, and Bastard sword the stacked plate construction is used to both reduce the weight of the item and stiffen it at the same time.  

Topic by tytiger33  


Help Making a Toaster Lamp

Kats, I need some help making a toaster lamp. Now I know what you’re thinking, “ I always wanted to make a toaster lamp!”. Well now’s your chance to help. In its simplest form a toaster lamp would be a base of a toaster with the top of a table lamp. The lamp operates like a normal lamp by pulling the string or turning the switch. The electronics in the toaster would be disabled or removed for safety reasons. This would be the simplest model. But I would like to build a model where you press the toaster lever down and the lamp lights up. To turn the light off you press the cancel button or press the toaster lever up. Furthermore the light-dark setting on the toaster would act as a dimmer switch for the lamp. The toaster heating elements would be disabled for safety reasons. Now a basic toaster works like this: When you push down on the handle, a plastic bar presses against the contacts and applies power to the circuit board. 120-volt power runs directly through the contacts to the nichrome wires to start toasting the bread. A simple circuit made up of transistors, resistors and capacitors turns on and supplies power to an electromagnet. The electromagnet attracts the piece of metal on the handle, holding the bread in the toaster. The simple circuit acts as a timer. A capacitor charges through a resistor, and when it reaches a certain voltage it cuts off the power to the electromagnet. The spring immediately pulls the two slices of bread up. In the process, the plastic bar rises and cuts off power to the toaster. Some of the problems I’m facing are the voltage to the electromagnet and PC board is about 12 volts. If you bypass the nichrome wires that would send 120 volts to the PC board which would toast it. So we need a way to do that. Another problem is we don’t want the capacitor to cut off power to the electromagnet, that would shut off the light. We could not charge the capacitor by putting a larger resistor before it, I’m not sure how to do this. The ideal solution would be to gut the toasters electronics, replace it with a circuit that does what I want, and the toaster just becomes a façade. Now that I’ve outlined what I want to do are there any electronics wizards out there who can design me a circuit to do this? Thanks Paul

Topic by god1    |  last reply


Building integrated led rear mountain bike lights?

Hi folks ,as said above , would like to install a row of red high-power leds into the rear of my bike seat  post to give a hidden , high-tech look  :-). Elements of design to be considered ;  to run off  2-4 AA batteries , to use 5-7  5mm leds , to use        " off the shelf parts " , no hand built electronics , to have constant and flash modes , would consider adapting an existing product ( e.g. cateye light unit ) For the installation i intend to drill a row of 5.5mm holes , 25mm apart , with the led heads sealed in place just protruding the surface of the metal post. The led leads would be drawn up and out of the top of the seat post into the saddle area and is where the battery pack would be strapped in. Any electronics could be housed inside seat post or under saddle. A handle bar switch would be nice but not essential. I feel confident about the wiring and fitting of the components ( electrician by trade ) just need a pointer with the electronics. Cheers Pete.

Question by biff55    |  last reply


K'nex Gun Review - RBLTR V.1 (Red's Breach Loading Tactical Rifle)

Hello All This is a review on 'RBLTR V.1 (Red's Breach Loading Tactical Rifle)'. The RBLTR V.1 was published on the 1st of July 2013, and is considered by red himself to be his most powerful K'nex gun he has ever built. After building the gun and seeing the internals, it uses a pin pull mech and they look very similar to the G36C mech. There are many nice features to this gun that makes it original like the comfort bar and the sights. The gun shoots yellow rods to anyone wondering. STATS Range 10/10 - The range of the gun is rather high than an average gun. I managed to get 50ft accurately and around 80- 90 ft at an angle. It it described that the gun can reach ranges up to 70ft in the original description so I think 70ft is a fair judgement. As I managed to get 80ft plus,  I think the rating is 10/10. Appearance/ Looks 8/10 - The gun at first sight looks pretty hardcore although this does not really matter, I personally liked the comfort bar and the sights. The gun has a solid build so I think around a 8/10. Internals 8/10 - The internals within the gun are rather good, although I have had a few jams so I think 8/10. Broken Pieces 9/10 - The gun does not use any broken pieces however in some places the performance of the gun will exceed if broken pieces are used. That having been said I think a 9/10. Comfort 10/10 - I admire the gun mainly for its comfort of the handle. This helps to make the gun more accurate while aiming therefore a 10/10 without a doubt. Rate of Fire 6/10 - The ROF on this gun is quite good. When reloading this gun it did not take too long but their has been a lot more quicker and so I think a 6/10. Sturdiness/Durability 8/10 - The gun is put together well as I said earlier and I find it firm. When building this and adding the comfort bar is seemed that it was weak but as I added to it, it strengthened. Although the permanent fore-grip is rather weak in my opinion and could be stronger so I think a 8/10. Overall - 59/70 - This gun overall is awesome and I would recommend to build it! Also keep in mind that this is my ratings and opinions of the gun. Be sure to check out The Red Book of Westmarch's other guns. I hope you have enjoyed the review! Thank you! Hunter999

Topic by hunter999    |  last reply


Wood Converted SWB Recumbent Bike of Awesome!

This is a project coming soon... But I'm so excited I have to share... I'm beside myself in excitement, in fact.All that's left to finish the project is:1. Recondition a bit more chain and add it on2. Add idlers and get my chain line in order3. Cut excess wood and make a SeatBut after I assembled a crank into some 2x4's - and had to step back and laugh. I've seen it before, in person at the maker faire. But to do it myself and see how easy/simple it is... Ha!So I cobbled that together - made a pseudo tie fighter handle bar from some scrap PVC and two Tees... And rode off into the sunset... Until the chain derailed - and then I realized I couldn't make appreciable low speed turns due to chain routing... Both problems can be fixed with an idler - a solution I've yet to install due to Kinematics homework having a due date of tomorrow.So yeah, this is something I've always wanted to do. And I'm totally happy I did it (and happy I bought those cheap bikes at auction last year :p). AND, the front boom is modular. I intend on making it, and have accommodated for, adjustable. So I can go for more incline and a more aggressive seat position. (mind you, this is a single speed :p).Okay, I'm done venting -- feedback?

Topic by trebuchet03    |  last reply


Review: Sharir1701's Bushmaster M17S

Sharir1701's M17S is truly a pretty gun. Even my mom said so, but it does have its draw backs. In this review, I am going to do my best to give you the pros and cons of this gun, so that you can decide weather to build it or not. Now, the gun might be somewhat outdated, but it is pretty cool all the same. First off, let us talk about the cons, as those will really be the things you will really want to see. Cons: Looks: He stated in the 'ible of his M17S that "this is my bushmaster m17s replica thats like 95% perfect as a replica..." but I quite disagree. The barrel area is not quite accurate. His is too thick, the barrel is WAY two small (though, I admit, with his setup it would be pretty hard  to edit that), his trigger guard is not quite curved enough, and the handle is curved way to far. The carrying handle is not high enough, and the attachment bar is too block like. The butt-stock area is horrid. it is not flat on top, it is WAY too big, and it does not have the right types of curves. Mechanism: The mechanism does not always block the FP, and the safety does not always work. The mag lock is also a waste, as the mag stays in fine with out it. Piece Consumption: This gun is VERY piece consuming, and took up almost all of my orange connecters, green rods, and dark grey connecters (even with my attempts at piece saving). This is not really a disadvantage to the gun its self, but just keep that in mind. I am sure there are MANY ways to fix this as a problem. Now to the pros. Pros: Looks: Looks good over all, but again, not very accurate. Comfy, and yet sturdy, this gun is not at all a wast of time! Mechanism: The mechanism on this gun is FANTASTIC. I love the way it works, and the mech is quite effective (minus the disadvantage above). All of the mechs are easy, work great, and are VERY "smartly" done. Effective overall. Range: Fantastic! With a couple rubber bands you have your self an effective gun! Overall: This gun is so much fun to build and to mess around with. It's big, sturdy, has great range, has great mechs, and is just awesome overall. I would love to see this gun's mechs thrown into a concept gun/fake gun. Hope this helps you out. And as always, rate, comment and subscribe!

Topic by The Red Book of Westmarch    |  last reply


Hi, I have a trx stand up scooter, how do I wire it, the books useless.

3 batteries, 2 motors, controle module. The module has 10 wires, the black and yellow wires go to the motor with the black and yellow, got that. Two matching wires go to the other motor, got that. The large wire is 4 wires wrapped together and their ends match up to wires coming from the handle bars, 2 prong, 3 prong, so forth, got that , those wires I got snapped together. 1 black wire is left and 1 red. Okay positive and negative, got that. This is where I don't got it. I believe before, the positive went to the positive of the first battery and the negative went to the negative of the last battery. For reasons I don't understand the negative of the first battery went to the positive of the middle battery and the negative of the middle went to the positive of the last battery along with a 30 amp fuse. The on/off switch has 3 prongs( what is the extra prong for?) The charging port has 3 prongs,why? There was a wire with a wierd thing on it, I want to call it a resistor, what's this and do I need it? How do I tie it all together, 1 negative wire, 1 positive wire coming off the control module to the 3 prong on/off switch, 3 prong charging port, 3 batteries (36volt) and a fusable link in there somewhere. All these parts are what the scooter originally had, "friend" got as far as just unhooking everything. HELP, I don't want anything to blow up.

Question by frazzledbme    |  last reply


Recumbent cycle: &quot;blue sky&quot; design query

I am not one of nature's cyclists. I didn't actually learn properly until I was in my twenties. My bike is very old, very rusty and very, very heavy.However, I feel that I "ought" to cycle more, for shopping trips and the like. I quite like the idea of switching to a recumbent, but they are expensive (current available funds: zero).So, I'm playing with the idea of rebuilding my mountain bike into a recumbent (and learning how to weld on the fly?).In the sketch below;The black section is the back of the old bike, turned upside down.The blue section is the front of the donor bike.The red part would need fabricating somehow.I haven't thought properly about steering mechanisms, but probably under the seat, via cables to arms welded to the forks of the will-be-the-back wheel.Would the bike, as I have sketched it, in principle, work?I'm bothered about stability, especially at take-off and landing. Am I worrying unnecessarily? I have access to a second donor cycle. Is there any mileage thinking about "doubling up" the blue section, to make a trike? Not massively wide, but I could add luggage space, or an extra rear-facing chair-style seat.Brakes: before I cut up the bikes, am I right in thinking that I just remove the cables and levers from the handle-bars and add them to the under-seat steering?Gears: the donor bike is a mountain bike, but I never used all the gears anyway. This area is pretty flat - can I get away without any gears?Coasting: although the back of the donor bike ends up upside-down, it is still turning the same way, so I can still coast OK.I'm sure I've missed something obvious...Anyway, even though I've not decided to do this for certain, I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts.

Topic by Kiteman    |  last reply


Does the magnet motor really work and keep spinning?

See it as a last hurray before the forum here disappears ;)For ages we have people claiming that they managed to build a working magnet motor.Basically not even a perpetual motion engine but something with enough energy output to spare.As soon as they surfaced to make it all public the vanished.Most say they only vanished because it was just another fraud as those things simply can't work - physiscs won't allow it.If that was really always the case then why did some of these people AND their families disappear after till publishing details and being active in their communities?Either way: If there is a will then there is a backseat - or so they said in the 70's ;)People are still willing to fall for every foolish plan they can find on the net, waste their money and find out that, well, it just won't work.If you dig long and deep enough though you get a glimpse of what really is possible without violating our laws of physics.And yes, done and applied properly even a magnet motor is possible.The do's and don'ts of trying to build a magnet motor:Once you got hooked you have to start somewhere.Usually some V-gate or similar that ALMOST worked for you already.Anyway, you will have to encounter the appearently only reason why these motors won't work rather quickly.It seems impossible to provide accelleration without having at least point in the cycle where the binding can't be overcome through inertia or mechanical trickery.So the first thing you really need to learn is to forget what you already know!Treat magnets like a think you never knew at all, something rare and very special.Don't use your schoolbook knowldege or what you learnt at university - only use what you discover yourself!!!Make your conclusions no matter how wrong they seem - you will find out soon enough if something was flawed.I, for example, "wasted" endless hours when there was nothing on TV.Just some good music running and playing around with my magnets.Adding metal strips, filing them down, seeing how they react at different angles and distances to each other.Once you are at the stage of getting over this last bit of forces that ruins it all you need to learn how to think totally out of the box!You can't see the magnetic field lines, can't really use magntic viewer foils on the running thing - you have to try things!Take 5 magnets and create and array with a very strong pole on one side and a very weak on the other - realise that the manetic field lines don't care whether or not they go back to their own magnet!See for yourself how strips of metel from some old transformer core will provide a pathway for those field lines.See for yourself where the "threshold" is from just "shielding" a part of the magnet to "re-shaping" the field itself.See for yourself how a magnet that you bring close to one pole also affects the opposite pole of the "attacked" magnet ;)And did I already say you should try to forget what you think you know until you could actually check it and all possible variations yourself? ;)Butter on the toast....For mostly the reason to keep it shorter I just assume you tried to build something based on the classic V-gate motor and that you found this topic somehow...For other motors most of what comes now still aplies in one way or another though.Binding:I speak of binding if a motor has one or more points during a full cycle where it gets stuck.Not just a bit of attraction, enough to ruin the entire motion.There are two forms of binding forces that I identified as important.1. Opposite poles.2. Equal poles.Just means your binding is either caused by too much attraction to move further or that the next (set of) magnet(s) repells too much.Either is bad ;)Redirected forces:It is a bit impossible to only provide a force in the exactly needed direction.For example when it is more displacement forces driving the wheel - going more sideways than in a true rotional motion.Means nothing more than that a lot of potential energy is literally wasted.Shielding:You can't shoild magnetic fields!I still use the term to indicate that I am "wasting" a part of the magetic field - I don't want this bit to interfere with operations.Flux directing:Or fluxing...I use this whenever I want to affect the shape or reach of a magnets field.E.g.: by adding a rod to "extend" one pole or by providing a "shunt" strip between two magnets.A way to get field lines where they are needed most.So much for the basic terms that might pop up from now on ;)Before you can worry about lost energy from redirected forces you need to overcome your binding points.This is only possible through shielding and flux directing!Of course it also includes the possibe use of arrays to create a field with a specific shape.Let me try with some classic examples you might have faced already:Where your V changes from wide to slim you always get stuck, so you did it again by using two V's in line.Hoping that you could use what one V has in excess to overcome the binding on the ther side.Nice thinking only you forgot that your max power output is about half way through the V ;)So you realised this and added two more V's on your roll with a 120° phase shift.Does much better now but still prefers to bind no matter what you try.So what went wrong?The approach did ;)You compensated for a binding force by wasting what you have in rotational energy - to say it simple.You might have tried some mechanical lifting and flipping as well to get closer but never close enough.Our first array....By now you realised that the junction between wide open and really narrow ruins your motor.Check where the thing stops without the next magnets in line.Then check the opposite arrangement and see where the next bit would stop the thing.This is your binding area.Mark this area.Now test where your machine creates the most pull or push to get it going.Do this by finding the strongest starting point.Mark this again.Now take a look at your markings!You will see a angular relation.E.g.: You max push/pull is 50° away from your max binding point.This angle defines how many parallel V-gates you need on your drum.You want then arranged so that whenever you have a max binding point you also have a max push/pull point at the same time.This is you basic V-Gate array allowing you compensate for a lot just by using a better design.Or second array....We now need a way to compensate at least a little bit of the binding forces by redirecting and shielding some field lines.If you like fairy floss then grab some ;)We face the problem that we use a displacemnt force to keep things rolling.Fairy floss on a stick can help to visualise ;)Grab two sticks so their stick end comes out either side of your fist.Do the same with the other hand.Having two colors helps as well and gives it some flavour.Try to align those double cones so they create areas where their forces would cancel ech other out.Meaninf for example when one north pole is close enough to another south pole to create a flattened field.You realise soon that angles are not really that relevant here, only distance ;)You can cheat by adding some (smaller but strong) magnets in little arrays between the closed and open ends of your V.Keep the distances from the previous power tests in mind though!!!For example if the closed end would just keep pushing with little binding due to having a long magnet bar on top then you focus on providing a path where the adverse push from the open V is mostly compensated.Or third array...We need some balance in the system now, so why not use magnets for the weights ;)You want to place them so they increase the push/pull forces!Helps to have a big collection of various sizes and shapes....Please also consider strips or bars of silicicium rich steel (transformer cores) to brigde from one magnet to another to get a good balanced system or just adding short pieces on the underside of magnets.Ok, where are we now?We have a phase shifted array of 3 to 6 V-gates.We have it properly balanced and still use these long mangets as the driving bars on top - or even multiple if you have more than one V per array part.And that thing is causing all our binding issues.....Common solution is now to just lift the offending bar up or to increase the distance until it can provide force again that we need.Unless you are already an artsist for building you own little steam engines froms cratch it is the worst possible approach.Creates too much friction, uses to much energy!We think we are almost there.....We can't waste ANY energy until we figured out how to get more than enough of it.A mechanical gear system is far from perfect but offers precision.A simple push rod solution works well too if properly balanced and the mechanics allow for a smooth operation.I leave it up to your what you prefer.We can't just change the lenght of our magnet bar but we can cheat - a lot.One good option to check for yourself how a magnet if a fixed rotational thingy reacts when you spin a magnet close by.Even with really good bearings you will realise the binding forces between them are not equal if you keep the same distance while rotating.Now re-think your engine desing - I know it hurst if ou realise now your magnet arrangement wasn't ideal.Do you have a north-south bar on top of a V with one row of magnets facing north and the other facing south?Really I am sorry if you do but it is not all lost unless you glued your magnets in place as a permanent solution.You can leave it if you wish but it might be harder to apply the required cheats - there is ways if you look good ;)Why a V-gate where both rows of magnets are orientated the same way?It is just easier and more flexible as you then can focus on the driving bar(s) ;)Let me explain the difference as I see it:With a fixed north and south pole on your bar you seem to be able to use "more" of the magnets.And it seems to be the logical way at a first glance.But now that you learned and discovered so much yourself already, ask yourself:Does it really matter if there a north and south pole available on the bar?Wouldn't two rows of north facing magnets with matching magnets on the bar to the same things?They would....And in such an arrangement we have almost endless ways to "cheat" physics as we know it.Especially if you have two V's per drum and have one facing north and the other south ;)For the standard single V the trick is to rotate the "magnet bar" in a controlled way so when the binding forces of the V are max the forces the bar can apply are minimised.You can see that nicely if you manually rotated the wheel and watch how the bar reacts to the field.At some points it wants to push, at others pull and at still others it would love to just flick over - use this behaviour in your rotating mechanism!You want to keep the max possible forces for the longest possible time and keep the flicking over time in sync with the drum rotation.Look up on the many ways to do a flipping motion by mechanical means to see how you can best implent one into a rotary action.If you were a really good observer during your experiments you now realise that you start to also deal with friction and mechanical losses and counteracting forces.We can not reduce all of them to zero by simple cheats and mechanical solutions.Whenever we try we must do this in the most efficient way possible - even if it means cheating on our own constructions.Remember playing with the magnets to see how they react at various distances to each other and ferrous metals? ;)There is a fine line between too much and too little ;)Try for yourself on your whell with a simple bar mechanism that allow distance adjustment.Do you really get mor "driving" force the closer you get with the bar? ;)Where is the point between effective force and you needing too much force to keep the bar at this distance? ;)Do you notice how the distance affects the forces in your binding areas? ;)Cheating the cheat ;)Now that we have to find the opimal distance for our bar to avoid changing this ones as well on a constant base during the rotation, we should see how to make this the least energy wasting.You need some sort of counter balance for your mechanics and it would be nice to somehow affect our bar magnets so we don't need to much mechanical energy to make them rotated and flick over.Why not use a drum around them ? ;)When you need a reduced force you can have a metal (ferrous of course) roatate in place.As a drum you would just cut out the parts you don't need and add weight where needed to compensate the imbalance in the mechanical system.Like for example having the most "shielding" metal between bar and drum when the binding forces would be max.Hence the need for correct distance to prevent unwanted binding forces from the drum parts ;)You can even influence the width of your magnetic bar to some extend this way ;)If done properly you now wasted a few weeks in your shed and have a motor that still is only very close to keep running forever once you gave it a little push.Let's say you did a really bad job.Means you still have one or more destinct binding points left.In this case I suggest you focus on them after finding out if they are mechanical or magnetic in origin.If you did a half decent job then your machine should be able to start running from multiple points in the rotation.But not in some others.Perfect would be two equally sized areas per revolution where it seems the thing would just need to be started a few degrees later to overcome the power loss.If you reached the max point and going a few degrees more again start to reduce the power output you are good to go.What exactly haapend so far, assuming all is still well in your shed?We tricked our system in various ways to actually utilise the push/pull forces our motor provides.And we learned what to do and how to do it so we overvome almost everything.Just to finally fail like all those idiots on the net before - or did we??? ;)Isn't there something really vital we missed in our construction while we cheated so much?There is but I can't blame you if you have not picked it up much earlier in your construction.We rotate our magnet bar now to compensate for the binding effect by mecahnical means.Ever wondered if we could more rotation and changing orientations in our V?The magnets won't mind too much if they are put in with north and south alternating as long as you rotate the bar correspondingly.Just instead of one spin or flip during max binding you do it for every single magnet in the row.... ;)The shielding drum though operates as normal with this.Bit complicated, lots of mechanical design involved - I know!!!And for what exactly???To use what have not even touched yet - electrical energy produced by our now alternating drum ;)I know :( Now you are whacking your head against the wall like I did so many years ago, sorry for that experience!But would it mean that coils will cause additional losses and binding forces?Of course it does, that's why it is so much fun trying to cheat physics!This approach is usually just neglected due to the ill thinking that a magnet motor would provide free energy for everyone.Simple fact is that no matter how good you are it will be impossible to get more than a magnetic machine that almost works forever - you won't be able to compensate for all losses and utilise them as energy unless you either have multiple high degrees or spend a lot of time in your shed - a lot...Since a full rebuild is now due anyway I leave it up to you to figure out how desgin it, I just throw in some "ideas" here:We only use the outside of our magnetic drum, this needs to change.And before you go into a mechanical frency to figure how to place inner magnets that rotate with the drum to compensate for dead zones: Just don't! You will get a headache and waste too much time.We can use all those inwards facing magnets to our advantage though.A lot of the arrays, if not all, could be replaced by creating a rotor to hold the magnets.Not in the traditional sense though but to guide the field lines to a common center.There is a need for a rather wide distance between the magnets so you can provide a ferrous pathway that won't just fully shortcut the fields.It needs to be enough so that a coil array placed on the inside will be subjected to changing fields- north south...I leave it up to to decide if a low resistance or ahigher output voltage is the better option.Either way we are able to produce some electrical energy as long as the drum rotates.But we only need extra energy for those ares where the system does not produce extra energy and in fact eats all our energy up.One way would be to store the electrical energy in a nice supercapacitor and to use it for some electromagnet that is placed in the right spot and activates at the right time.And yes it works.Far better though is to utilise resonance.We aim for a fully harmonic system so we can actually try to figure out where and if there is a way to produce more neergy that what we feed into it.Perpetual motion means a system produces enough energy to sustain motion.If motion is sustained AFTER getting to a certain speed by other means it is perpetual from then on.We have the impossible if a machine produces more energy than what is required for the motion AND if we can utilise this power.Sadly we have no means to utilise friction energy....So a machine that sustains motion would already be in what is called "over unity" !?In a sense yes, but not in a usable as it will discredit you quickly.A resonant electrical system is able to handle way more energy with way less resistance - or losses.Now to give you the final homework lesson and risk being watched again:What do you think happens if a resonant LC system has a set of rotating magnets at a matching speed? ;)Right! It won't be able to stay in sync because we still have this firction and "binding" problem on our hands.....What does that mean in reality though?The spacing of the rotor is critical, that is clear already,And our electrical system is never fully in sync with our drum, clear again.But it is still a resonant system, totally unclear, now I lost you ;)See it as two independent frequencies, one defined by rotor spacing and our desired operational speed, the other what results from our losses and running slightly behind.Imagine you would finetune the LC system to actually match the frequency that results from the losses....Suddenly it is not longer tuned to a theoretical speed but to the real speed.And due the the now full resonace the phase shift now is able to provide extra push for our system ;)Explains nicely why basically all magnet motor machines that claimed to work and disappeared only worked at a fixed speed ;)What are the final conclusions here then - is it really possible to do the impossible?I say it depends on your time, workshop and willingness to think out of the box.Impossible, certainly not.In case you came to the same impossible conclusion after neglecting your family and friends for weeks you now wonder how much more might be possible than just keeping it going for almost forever.For this you need to understand and basically feel how magnetic field lines interact and react, including electromagnetic fields.A magnetic field is a form of energy.We usually created this by putting an awful lot of energy into coild during the manufacturing process.And like a battery magnets lose their energy over the time, especially in bad conditions.Still we treat this energy as unusable because we can't seen to be able to utilise static fields at all.If neither the coil, nor the magnet moves there is no change in field and with that no electricity.Does that mean though the megnetic energy does not go through the coil? ;)Nope, it is still there, going nowhere.Otherwise we would not need power plants and just use earth's magnetic field instead.Now to drive your brain into true overdrive for the final:Did you ever watch these nice videos where a great physics teacher of the old kind shows how (AC) electromagnetic field work?Or maybe you had one of those in school?Remember how a metal cylinder placed ner a tall electromagnet starts spinning?Often used to explain the righthand rule ;)The cylinder spins due to the eddy currents created - like the disk did in your old school electrical meter in the fuse box.And doesn't our drum now support a changing magnetic field on the inside while it rotates?What do you think happens to "drums" placed off center and close to those magnets? You think they would spin?And, if made from aluminium or copper, wouldn't the field lines stillpass through and reach the electrical coil(s) ;)Couldn't you utilise the drum motion during the times of not enough spin? ;)Considering they are basically short cut inductors: Couldn't you use a "coil" that still spins while producing electricity? ;)Once you can answer this with confidence you will know how to build a magnet motor able to produce excess energy.I am not saying it is easy to include all this knowledge into a simple and basic design.But I do say that one you understand the relation between static permanent magnetic fields and electromagnetic ones you are a winner.I'll give you one final hint:Every electrical current or electromagnetic field near enough to a permanent magnet will influence its field!You only need to decide where the electrical energy is used to influence permanent magnets is a positive way without using more than what the system is able to provide.Then, and only then, will you motor to be able to start (with no load) from any position and keep gaining speed until resonance is reached.The amount of energy you can draw once this speed is reached is only defined by how much it drives the system out of resonance.Once the load is greater than what the system can sustain the speed slows, resonance is lost, efficiency down the drain.A good motor of desktop size is able to provide about 100W of extra electrical energy.And no it still isn't over unity or perpetual at all!The magnets deplete and they do it surprisingly fast in a working magnet motor.You are lucky get 6 months of continious use before one or more magnets get too weak.And if you check how much electrical energy was used to give these magnets their abilities you realise that even two years of usage wouldn't make up for it.Still nice to have a machine that runs for a few years with no load attached or that powers some fan, lamp, whatever for a few weeks without batteries or fuel.

Topic by Downunder35m  


[newsletter] Kill Ants, Crush a Can, Make a Talkbox, and more!

Sign-up for our newsletter here. Apr. 17, 2008 Welcome back! We have lots of news for you today. New contest! RoboGames has partnered up for our Robot Contest. Show how to make a robot or just a part of it and win a trip to RoboGames 2009! Contest winners announced! See who won the April Fools Speed Contest! We had a blast at Yuri's Night with our Show & Tell. Check out our pictures from the event to see our booth and the awesome 4'x4' Lite-Brite! Check out these cool instructables! Horn From a Drinking Straw How to make a cool horn out of a drinking straw. A musical instrument is easier to make than you think. posted by shoemaker on Apr 8, 2008 How to Make Great Fresh Mozzarella Cheese There's a world of difference between the mozzarella you buy in the store and what you can make yourself, and it's well worth the effort. posted by mikemwa on Apr 6, 2008 Thermal test chamber for edge-of-space testing Before you send an autonomous glider up to about 100,000 feet, here's how to run some tests to make sure it can handle the conditions. posted by 3ricj on Apr 9, 2008 Electric Mountain Board Convert a mountain board into a battery-powered ride without damaging the board, then remove the system for standard riding. posted by Vurp on Apr 14, 2008 Kill household ants - Super cheaply On a budget? Got an ant problem? Do not fear, because Domesticated Man and his sidekick Handy Hand have the answer! posted by domesticatedman on Apr 14, 2008 Green Science Fair! April is Photo Month! Bake and decorate! Make A Talkbox Have you ever listened to Peter Frampton's guitar solos and asked yourself, "How can I do that?" Here's how. posted by MitchBCool on Apr 13, 2008 Canon Wired Remote Make a wired remote for your Canon Digital Rebel or similar digital cameras! Great for those slow shutter speeds. posted by videokid842 on Apr 12, 2008 Make Your Own Antique Medallion A quick and easy way to make a great-looking metallic badge from some aluminum foil, a glue gun, and a permanent marker. posted by KaptinScarlet on Apr 15, 2008 Two Dollar Laptop Stand At just two dollars this is the cheapest laptop stand we've seen yet. posted by proyZ on Apr 8, 2007 How to crush a can on your head Learn how to do this classic bar trick with any of those cans in your recycling bin. posted by suggsugg on Apr 3, 2008 Now go make something awesome, and I'll see you next week! - Eric

Topic by fungus amungus  


Temperature LED lights for motorcycle

Hi I would like to build a temperature sensing leds for my rid to work on my motor cycle to check for black ice!. I want have this circuit as small as possible (fit in a bike light so can mount on handle bars of my motor bike) I have been able to do this via a Arduino board but when I convert this to work on a Attiny85 it will not read the same results. I think this could be due to the way the Attiny85 converts the elec signal. I use a 4.5 volt battery (3 * 1.5) could this be the problem? Here is the code I have used for both the Arduino (which works great) and also the Attiny85 (not working as should) /* temp lights using Uno & LM35 Arduino */ const int tempPin = A0; const int Temperature= 0; // declare the led pins  const int led01 = 9;   const int led02 = 10;   const int led03 = 11;  //declare the variable for the temp int temp=0;//changed to = 0? int AjustTheTemp= 0; //Declare the leds as outputs void setup() {    Serial.begin(9600);      pinMode (led01, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led02, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led03, OUTPUT); }     // Main Program     void loop() {         // read the voltage from the temp sensor     // and change it to celsius     int reading = analogRead(Temperature); float voltage = reading *5; voltage /= 10; float TemperatureC = (voltage - 0.5) ; //show temp in monitor so can make changes        Serial.print("TEMPRATURE = ");   Serial.print(TemperatureC );   Serial.print("*C");   Serial.println();     delay (1000);//delays the print to monitor                // by 1 sec   if (TemperatureC<(1-AjustTheTemp)) {   digitalWrite(led01, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   digitalWrite(led03, LOW);   } else if(TemperatureC<(4-AjustTheTemp)){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   digitalWrite(led03, HIGH);  }    else if(TemperatureC<(10-AjustTheTemp)){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led03, LOW);      }      } /* temp lights using Attiny & LM35 */ //const int tempPin = 0; const int Temperature= 3; // declare the led pins (attiny) const int led01 = 2;   const int led02 = 1;   const int led03 = 4;  //declare the variable for the temp int temp=0;//changed to = 0? int AjustTheTemp= 0; //Declare the leds as outputs void setup() { //  Serial.begin(9600);      pinMode (led01, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led02, OUTPUT);   pinMode (led03, OUTPUT);   pinMode (Temperature, INPUT); }     // Main Program     void loop() {         // read the voltage from the temp sensor     // and change it to celsius     // temp = analogRead(Temperature);     // temp = temp * 0.48828125;        int reading = analogRead(Temperature); float voltage = reading *5; voltage /= 10; float TemperatureC = (voltage - 0.5) ; //show temp in monitor so can make changes        // Serial.print("TEMPRATURE = ");   //Serial.print(TemperatureC );   // Serial.print("*C");   // Serial.println();     //delay (1000);//delays the print to monitor                // by 1 sec   if (TemperatureC<(27-AjustTheTemp)) {   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led03, LOW);   } else if(TemperatureC<(29-AjustTheTemp)){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, LOW);   digitalWrite(led03, HIGH);  }    else if(TemperatureC<(31-AjustTheTemp)){   digitalWrite(led01, LOW);   digitalWrite(led02, HIGH);   digitalWrite(led03, LOW);      }      }

Topic by minimadmalc    |  last reply


How to improve Instructables.com !

Hi, I am web designer so I will be specific. These little things bug me but they must drive crazy those ordinary PC users. It seriously degrades the overall user experience on this web ! Here I will point to current problems and show you how to fix it. All following is about EDIT MODE. Constructive critisism, right ? :) UPLOAD IMAGES I know you are using jQuery UI 1.8.11 on this site. Now there is no indicator IF the file uploads at all and/or in case of bigger file/slower connection how long it needs yet ! You have it already in use, when "updating" small progress bar I saw used in images area. Use following it will do miracles: http://jqueryui.com/progressbar/#animated UPLOAD IMAGES AGAIN :) Put buttons SELECT FILES + UPLOAD FILES side by side ! Imagine adding 20 images the upload button goes down. Do not force user to think let alone to do things extra, hide buttons from him ! Thanks. And not to forget ADD there tiny link sor of button to DELETE ALL IMAGES before uploading. What if you choose by accident wrong folder and upload 20 images you do not want to. Sort of CHECK ALL + DELETE function so you can for instance uncheck those you want to leave there. Thanks. CLOSED WINDOW BY ACCIDENT = SAVE This happens. You edit for a while, close window only to realise content is not saved. Could you implement: * AUTO SAVE function after like 5 mins ? * if NOT saved ! = give him JavaScript pop up with "You have unsaved draft. Do you want to continue or save first ?" * IF SAVED = let user close window, no big deal * if saved = add to left small greyish message Saved ... or the button itself * NEW content = button says SAVE NOW * if saved = itself could go grey and have text SAVED = when content changes, turn it orange again ! * the same functionality that GMAIL uses, it is simple REORDER STEP Biggest pain here ! I can have like 20 steps, want to move 1/2 of them for instance. Let us reorder ALL STEPS simply ! Click on the reorder button and offer, let us reorder, offer us small OK button or some function to toggle the "moving" state back to stationary. ADD STEP + vs. INSERT STEP Enlighten me please if mistaken. Do you realise these 2 buttons EACH NEXT to each other do the EXACTLY same thing ? Delete one :) EDIT AREA FOR TEXT The window is too small. Lenghty steps are pain to write and review on such size. Enable resizing handle the same you already have in forums post edit mode ! ERROR WARNING MESSAGES Get rid of those ugly default JavaScript message windows please. Use this and style it to your web orange :) http://jqueryui.com/dialog/#modal-message http://jqueryui.com/dialog/#modal-confirmation Dear Instructables.com look at screenshots for better reference. Do not let me waste two hours of my time figuring out stuff and writing this post. Thanks :) Best regards -- Krsiak Daniel http://linkedin.com/in/krsiakdaniel

Topic by krsiak    |  last reply


Contests Are Rewarding Unoriginality, Threatening Creativity

It is truly a shame that judgments in our contests have again been made which serve to promote rehash and discourage creativity. After having watched the Make It Fly! contest make this mistake last month, I could only shake my head as the DIY Summer Camp Challenge also fumbled the ball and awarded a prize to an unoriginal post. Once again, unoriginal projects have landed in the winners' circle while new creations have been left to flounder. On a site that prides itself on people doing things for themselves, this is cause for alarm. Posting someone else's creations under your own name is not doing it yourself. It's high time that that be acknowledged and it be discouraged. Rewarding unoriginal projects is not an avenue to promoting new ideas, developments or breakthroughs. On the contrary, this approach provides an incentive and a compelling case to not pursue new ideas.  Instructables' successes are based on its being a center for new ideas, not old hat. Nevertheless, we are teetering dangerously toward that point with moves like this. Rehashes' qualifications are questionable The statements made in the commentary for the contests--the language of the competitions themselves--speak a resounding "no" against unoriginal content. In the header for the DIY Summer Camp Challenge, it is asked: "What interesting things can you do or make to keep the kids entertained this summer? [...] Share your games, activities, craft projects, and more." In the header for the Make It Fly Contest 2016, the opportunity is given for: "Three, two, one… ignition and lift off! The Make It Fly Contest has taken off and that gives you the perfect excuse to let your creativity take to the skies." There is nothing indistinct about the terms. They clearly outline the project is to be your own, not someone else's. If you are reposting another person's creation, you are upholding neither the contests' specifications nor spirit. In the standard contest terms for each contest, the judgment criteria is given: "Judging. All entries that are in compliance with all terms and conditions of these Rules will be judged on the basis of the following criteria (the "Criteria"): clarity, ingenuity, creativity, quality of presentation, and execution of the Instructable." Rehashed projects which contain contents from others' makings are neither ingenious nor creative. As a result, they ought to receive the minimum score in the sections of ingenuity and creativity if they are not barred from the competitions outright. What this means for makers now: Speaking in reference to how I had handled the contests myself, I spent several weeks perfecting several entries of my own. One of the projects, entered into only the DIY Summer Camp Challenge, was the result of many months' worth of development and refinement. The news that my efforts in those months were all for naught while similar themed but wholly unoriginal projects were selected as winners only served to tell me one thing: the time I spent developing and fine tuning the new projects was all for naught. Currently, the appeal for a person to set their best DIY foot forward and actually do something for themselves has become troublingly shaky. There is now a track record of rehashed projects taking home prizes while other original projects have faced ignominous defeats. There is a precedent to unoriginal trumping original. With rehash supported and honored, it is now reasonable for users to conclude that creativity is neither valued nor worth its costs and that unoriginal copying is a better way of doing things. This could ultimately promote a worsening spiral of disinterest in, apathy toward, and the stagnation of new developments in the numerous fields of endeavor makers strive to go forth in. The chances at falling into this trend draw increasingly close and they cannot be allowed to continue if we wish to see progress. Where we need to go from here: Creativeness must be shown to be valued by Instructables or makers are not likely to pursue it in future competitions. As I did a year ago, I recommend the Instructables staff and judges: Judge unoriginal projects as such and give them the earned low marks for ingenuity and creativity based on their lacking in both regards (if they are even legally fit to continue on in the competition) Not promote unoriginal designs by featuring them Reposting old things is a slide to the past, not a ladder to the future. Makers must act today to make a better, more creative tomorrow and copying is no way to do that.

Topic by OrigamiAirEnforcer    |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


QI wireless charging - what you need to know but won't find on the pack

These days using a charging cable for your phone or tablet is like connecting it to the printer or laptop with wires.You only do it if you really have to it seems.Your coffee bar or snack restaurant has the wireless chargin pad in the tables for your convinience.Your car has a holder with charging pad and at home you might have three or more of them...They are convinient and unlike a cable won't wear out your USB port over time.But do you pay a hefty price tag and always go genuine or do prefer to save a buck or two by going the aftermarket route?What's the difference between genuine and aftermarket?Apart from the price it is often the overall quality.The charger for your phone works with the charging pad if it did not come with a dedicated wall adapter anyway.And because it is a brand name product chances are slim you will be bother by big problems or even failures.As with all things the devil is in detail here.This devil is caled "QI" - or better what dollows after the QI on the sticker of your charging pad or cheap receiver coil that you add to your phone.QI READY!QI COMPATIBLE!WORKS WITH ALL QI ENABLED DEVICES!There is more slogans you find in the listings, on the pack or the product itself.They all inform you that you can use your phone, tablet, watch or ear buds with the wireless charging solution they try to sell you.They also inform you this way that it is not really a good idea to buy the product or if you already have that you should not use it ;)Only if there is the official QI logo on it and right next or under it it reads "QI CERTIFIED" you can be sure the charging pad is actually up to specs and won't damage your device while charging.Don't be fooled by the cheap knock offs or the expensive ones for that matter!Without QI certification you simply never know what the thing might do to your expensive phone...It is things like foreign object detection, monitoring the charging conditions, temperature and of course the efficiency that differenciate a certified charging pad from the rest out there.I have taken quite a few of these pad apart - couriosity killed the cat...Even products that inndicate on the plastic housing that it was made last year often have a circuit board from 2016 or before on the inside.Not really a deal breaker if the thing can be prgrammed and most can during the manufacturing process.However: Not all can be fixed on a software level to keep the charger up to todays specs!!For me the dead give away are all these charging ad claiming to be able to provide "wireless fast charge" or whatever name other companies use to indicate it can charge your device in more than the slow mode.Unless there is a USB-C or lightning port for the cable on it the thing is a fake!There is no power delivery standard (PD) defined for micro USB.Sure, the normal USB2.x standard allows for 9V on the power lines but with several Amp limitiations.Even worse for the connectors as they are simply not desinged to handle 10, 15 or now even 30Watt of power.This is further complicated by the USB standard itself.For example a wall adapter that is capable to provide the three major charging protocols should come with a USB 3 outlet.But since the same standard applies for the blue USB ports the charger might offer you the convinience to use normal USB cables instead of USB 3 ones.Why does this matter in this case?Charging standards and why they suck ;)If you bought a wireless chargin pad capable of fast charging then chances are that you went cheap or had bad advise and got one with a micro USB connector.And now chances are high that the charger for your phone came with fast charge option but only with a USB 3 outlet.Before you make any attempts to get the two to mate properly: Check the lable of your chraging pad!!!It should clearly indicate that it uses 5V AND 9V.The 9V part usually has a lower Amp rating but that is fine with the higher voltage.The 5V part on the label should read 2A as a max!If you see only 5V but with more than 2.5A or 2500mA on the lable please don't not use the fast charge option!!You would need a high output 5V charger for these knockoffs as normal ones won't provide the require juice.Even if the pad indicates it accepts 5V AND9V for the charging, having a micro USB port makes it a big gamble.Most of these pads won't even a temp sensor on the pad or a fan on the inside and rely only on what your phone or tablet gives in feedback.This can cause severe overheating as these cheap pads simply won't have a clue how hot things might get.Ok, got it, but just o make sure....A good charger is capable of providng 5V and 9V for charging devices.A good wireless charger comes with a USB 3 port or has a dedicated wall apadter included.Both have the QI logo and state that they meet or exceed the QI certification.Without logo and certiication they are just knock offs with questionable safety and performance.Q and A:Q: My wireless charger and phone support fast charge but it does not seem to work?A: Is you wall adapter rated for fast charge at 9V and does the wireless charger meet the standards of your phone?As said, all three must match to work properly, most pads will indicate the fast charge with a different color LED.But if it does not have a fan chances are your pad won't provide a meaningful difference in fast mode.Q: My wireless charger keeps cycling between fast and normal or drops out for a few minutes and continues - why?A: Most likely your phone or tablet indicates overheating and regulates the charging down to a safe level.Cheap wireless chargers, especially the ones without a fan often fail to provide the required cooling for the phone.This can be especially tricky if silicone covers are used.Q: Why does it take several times longer to charge without a cable?In most cases the maximum current your wireless charger will provide is around 1000mA - or 5Watt.Only if wall adapter, wireless charger and phone are set and capable of fast charging the power will be higher.Most fast wireless fast charges will then provide up to 10W, some of the newer ones up to 15W.But even then there is still the problem of heat that slows things down.With a cable you might chrge your phone at 10W within 2 hours.The wireless charger on 10W with proper efficiency and all would still need at least half an hour longer for the same.Q: What about interference?This is the part no one wants you to know about ;)The QI charging works at frequencies between about 120-200kHz.Some go as high as 25kHz but does not matter really.What matters is that you literally place a RF transmitter on your desk.Now, 5 or even 15W might not sound like anything, especially if you consider the charging works only at a distance of max 4cm - and that is the theoretical max, in reality anything above 1cm is likely to end your charging experience.....It does not mean though that these RF waves just disapear aft a few centimeters...You might be surprised about the signal strength if you use a radio scanner or RF dongle on your laptop in this frequency range while charging...Every tried your wireless mouse next to the charging pad? ;)The official claim is no that due to the desing and power management there is little to no leaking of radio waves.Highly doubtful in a plastic eclosure for the electronics, which is confirmed by the above simple to do tests.If you want to do some "research" yourself then do what I did:Buy some cheap pot plants that are small and require little care - but something leafy or with flowers.Place a plant right next to your heavily used wireless charging pad, another as healthy as matured plant in a different room or at least 5 meters away from the charger.Care for both plants in the same way and observe how they deleop over the follwing weeks or months ;)If you happen to have a really old wireless charging pad or a really dirt cheap knock off then dare to try the ring test.If you can manage to get finger with a ring on it between the chargin pad and phone (while the phone actually still charges) a good charger will turn off, a bad one will start to heat your ing up - do at your own risk!With that in mind: Would I recommend the usual nedside table charging solution?Honestly, I would have to say no here.Radio therapy might be good for something but should not come for free from your phone charger.The levels might be low but there are no meaningful and verfied long term studies about the effects of long term exposure to UHF radio waves.But anyone dealing with CB radios will tell you to stay away from a radiating antenna....Then again, if you make hundreds of phone calls and are a heavy WiFi user the little bit of added radiation from your charger won't make much of a difference ;)

Topic by Downunder35m  


Hydrogen Peroxide at home and in the Garden

Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Some of the current Ebay and Paypal scams to be aware of

Recently the spam activities increased for my inbox and with that the amount of phishing Emails and direct scams.Today I will only focus on the big two: Paypal and Ebay.1. General Paypal scams and phishing mails....Most of these are really easy to spot.Genuine Emails coming from Paypal always address you with your full name!Scam or other bad Paypal Emails will use your Email address or just your first name.There is a problem with some users here, but I will go into these details a bit further down.In most cases the scammer will spoof areal looking Paypal Email or server address.This means in your Email client the sender appears as "Paypal" and not some cryptic server address you can find in the source code of the offending mail.The simple scams use links to malware or phishing sites - often trying to look like the original so be aware of this.2. The latest and for some hard to spot Paypal scam.You are more likely to become a target if the Email looks genuine enough to fool you to click on some link in it.A lot of users do a quick check with the mouse on some links offered and check in the bottom left corner for the link that appears.Sadly in the latest scam mails the scammer uses genuine graphics and links.In some case directly from the Paypal servers, like logos and backgrounds.Only one link is in there that will fool you.If the scam informs you about a payment you supposedly made than it will be the link directing you to your account to cancel the payment for a refund.If the scam mail is about a refund you got then it is the same link - the one making it easy for you to get to your account settings.In one scam mail I landed on a really good looking copy of Paypal's login portal.The address bar however did not contain the usual secure HTTPS and neither a genuine address going to paypal.Problems with these new scam mails happen if you follow the suggestions or free will for naming your Email account.If your Email is for example tommy19726@mymail.com then you will spot this quite easy in the scam mail when you are addressed as tommy19726 instead of Tommy Hilfinger.It seems to be a favour now to have a real looking Email, so Tommy might have used Tommy.Hilfinger@mymail.com.And then in the scam mail he would be addressed as "Tommy.Hilfinger" - only the DOT is then different to a real Paypal mail!!!If you have one of these Email addresses with no numbers and just your first and last name then pay specail attention when checking Paypal mails!!!3. The latest Ebay scam from China :(Lately I had to order quite a few things that I could only get through Ebay for a reasanable price.Shipping costs were the major problem with other sources as I don't see the point in paying much more for postage than for what I bought.Anyways, the scam goes like this:You order something with a value above about $50.You get the usual payment confirmation and a few days later a tracking number.Problem is that this tracking number won't get any updates at all.It usually only states "Shipping information received".This means someone in China requested a shippment but never actually lodge an item or had one picked up.You can't do anything through Ebay until the max delivery time is over.Trying to get a working tracking number from those seller only gives you excuses but nothing of use.In many cases the answer you get has no relation to your request!Once the last date to get the shippment is over the seller keeps stalling and asks you to wait a few days more.No attempt to explain that the tracking shows that nothing at all was sent on the way gets any useful answer.It is like talking to your digital assistent set to a language you don't speak.Once you start a claim through Ebay the case and refund is handled quite quickly.Does not mean you are left alone by the seller, especially if you did the right thing and left negative feedback.And no surprise, suddenly the seller is then even able to uderstand your language LOLBiggest thing is that these dodgy seller are adjusting quickly.Once you state in your responses that you will open a calim they usually "offer" a refund.Even if you clearly state you want the item and not the refund you will get a nice thank note back and then a refund that makes a claim impossible.You are left with no item and can wait another 3 or 4 weeks if you find trustworthy seller that is.Only chance is to open a "Item not received" claim right after the last due date.But even if Ebay agrees and provides you with a refund, as they have no interest to do more, you need be quick!The item in question will end in the hidden section of your purchase history.Only if enable to show your hidden items you can then select it to rate at least the transaction for a negative feedback.If you act quick enough you can even leave negative feedback in the usual way, but only through activating your hidden items.What can you do to stay secure?The easiest way for Paypal is to simply ignore all content in any Email you get that seems to be from Paypal!Whatever you do or feel you need to check: Go directly into your Paypal account through the app or with your browser but DO NOT use any links provided in any Email.If you think an Email is suspicious then just forward the Email to "spoof@paypal.com" - or .com.au for Australia, .de for Germany and so on.In case the Email is genuine you will get a corresponding response.If the Email is indeed fishy then Paypal will notify you to delete the Email in question.For Ebay the problem is not s easy - at least if you don't buy locally.From my end I can only state it is the Chinese sellers, Hong Kong and mainland.And a few years back the recommendation was not to buy from a seller with less than 95% of positive feedback.You can try it yourself and mess up one sale if you are private and see how badly your feedback goes down - just kidding, please don't try!!!With the introduction of "power Sellers" and Ebay stores however this guide was rendered totally useless.A power seller with 99.7% positive feedback can still literally have hundrets of negative feedback comments for the past few months.Quite often you see it spiked a month or 6 ago - a clear indicator the seller is going to new account and tries to make as much quick money as possible before Ebay closes him down for good.If in doubt you really need to check the negative feedback in detail before buying.Some really dodgy sellers make all sales "private".This not only removes the item from the feedback but also the sale price.Intended only for special uses, Ebay sees no need to stop this misuse.If you can't see detailed feedback for a seller then just don't trust the seller!If you see way too many negative feedback comments during the past 6 months then stay away!Click on other listing showing identical listing images and you can be almost certain that even if the seller name is different it will be the same scammer.You can usually confirm this by seeing a similar pile up of negative feedback with that seller.Why do I stress so much about Ebay scammers if you get a refund anyways?Interest...No really, I mean interest in getting it for the money in your account.Firstly, if you wasted about 100 bucks and waited a few weeks for finally getting a refund, then you were out of pocket twice.Once by paying for something you never got and then again for the money you lost in interest.Sure on your end only a few cents worth...But see it from the other side:Have just hundred transactions of $50 going into your Paypal account where you never actually bother to send anything.Add a longer than usual shipping time and make it free.Means you have $5000 in your account collecting interest rates for 4 to 6 weeks.Do it on an even bigger scale and you can invest 10.000 or more on a regular base.With up to 10% of interest on foreign currency Chinese banks are only too happy to take it.Or did you never wonder why an item sold in Greece needs to be paid for in US Dollar, UK Pound or Canadian Dollar? ;)A good Ebay scammer can make over $25.000US in interest rate payouts this way before Ebay even decides to limit or monitor his sales.And once Ebay or the feedback rating goes to negative on him it continues on another account with the same items and availbilities.Quite often you can find a seller has let's say 5 items sold and 12 still available.Isn't it then funny and of course pure coincidence that another seller has the same, hard to find item, with the exact same 5 items sold and 12 available?Ebay has no interest to actually stopping this in any way, Paypal also prefers to look away if the same account is used for multiple Ebay accounts.Not even the need to provide the Paypal details of the seller in plain english is a requirement anymore.You need to use a translator to figure out what "company" is behind the Paypal account and it never matches the Ebay account in any way....I did some checks on the few suspicious sellers that still had at least item prices listed with their negative feedback.There are some out there having a vlue of well over $12.000US in "not received" claims over the last 12 months.About a year ago I tried to start a little (ad sponsored) reporting service online.Scammed Ebay users were asked to provide the details about the item, Paypal address of the seller and the amount/time until refunded.Within 3 days of going online and with only having two users that reported a scammer my provider gave me a shut down notice - effective immediately.A few days later I got an Email stating my website was shut after both Ebay and Paypal stated I would violate their privacy terms and break US law.Needless to say this notice also included a note informing me that if I attempt to conitnue to provide such service I will be taken to court for legal action.So what was the fuzz all about you might wonder?It was planned that users can provide the required data, without this data actually showing up anywhere.Once the databse was full enough a user could enter a seller or shop name or even a Paypal account to have it checked for negative things.You either get "unknown" or a list that states when and how many users reported this seller.With no deatils about any transactions, item numbers or user names linked.Did I mention how supportive Ebay and Paypal were when I contacted them about the take down notice? ROFLRules and regulations...I pointed these flaws out to Ebay and Paypal more times than I can count over the past 3 or four years.But as always, money is all that matters and those scammers won't be stopped.If you get a refund then the seller will be punished by more than your feedback, only if the Paypal account he used was unable to provide the required funds.In the rare case the Paypal account disappears with the seller you will notice the refund comes from Ebay or Paypal but not from the seller's account.This is the only real buyer protection Ebay has on offer.The rest is just following the pressure of local laws, especially in terms of refund and warranties.Does not mean though a warranty for an Ebay item will be honored by a company....If you start selling on Ebay then one big requirement is to have a validated Paypal account.Also a real physical address - although this is only too often just taken as granted once you had a delivery to your nominated address.Either way you Paypal account's address and name must match what you used for Ebay.Means if things go really south both Ebay and Payl will have enough details to surrender you to the local law.In China however things are different, starting with space.An export business is highly subsidised as it brings in foreign currency.So you can just hire a dummy letter box in some office building for company purposes.All mail however will be directed to whatever real address you specified for your "company".Same for actual company grounds.A n awful lot of producing factories/companies over there get additional support by the government for supporting small export businesses.That means you, as a little Chinese Ebay power seller forward your orders to whatever factory produces or stores these thing in huge amounts.This company then does all the shipping for you.Becomes really clear once you try to figure out from where you Ebay shippment really came.There won't be any Ebay seller name on the address, same for whatever you found in the Paypal invoice.The guy can just sit in his lounge room and never actually touches any shippment at all.In mayn cases those sellers have good discounts and since small items ship for free out of China, no one complains about the extra work.Both Ebay and Paypal are well aware of those loop holes in China!But as with multiple accounts they look away and prefer not to act as long as the money keeps flowing.

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Heavy duty UHF CB radio antennas and why cheap can be much better....

If you not a fan of normal road cars then you might get some 4WD and go off road every now and then.There are even those doing trips to remote locations that take a few weeks.An essential piece of equippment these days is a UHF radio.In a convoy you might get away with a handheld one if the cars are not too far apart and the terrain suitable.Most peole however opt for a permanent installation in the dash or roof console.After that decision comes the hardest and often costly part: What antenna to use....If you trust certain online reviews and manufacturer claims then one thing becomes quickly obvious.If you need a sturdy and powerful antenna then you have to pay top dollar.Some come with heavy spring bases claiming to protect the heavy fibreglass rod if you hit a bush or trees branch.There is always a compromise between weight and stability.And trust me, on the right corrugations you prefer not to look at your antenna....So how are these expensive antennas made?As I don't have any own pictures and don't want to steal them from the net: Please search for the terms used if you don't know them already.To answer this let me go to the other types of antennas you can get for your UHF radio.There is the famous rubber ducky - a stubby antenna best suited for short range on difficult terrian.Then we have the fibreglass whip antennas that have more or less coils integrated or even consist of one single coil with different spacings in sections.Good for normal road use, not so much off road as they won't tolerate too much vibration, they often snap off the base screw.Most people now just ignore the short whip antennas of 15 to 30cm length as they usually only come with a gain of around 4.5-6db.I will explain later why that might be a misconception.The last ones are those steel whips with one or two "loading" coils.These coils electrically shorten the antenna.They also provide a matching to the 50 Ohm required for most transmitters and antenna cables.Usually they are designed to be 5/8 Lambda antennas.A good antenna for just receiving, like when using a scanner is not critical in length.Transmitting however means you need a proper Standing Wave Reflection or SWR ratio.For this the antenna needs to be tuned.To be of any good use your antenna needs to match the transmitting frequency.This works best if the antenna length is at 1/2, 1/4 or 5/8 of the corresponging frequencies wavelength.Also called Lambda if you look for antennas.In the good old 27-MHz days we were used to quite long antennas in our backyard, for the car we then opted for 1/4 of this - usually around 2m in length.For UHF however 1/4 wavelength already means you are down to about 16cm...Going for 1/2 is a good thing here as it is still quite short at about 34cm.Real difference when it comes to these Lambda factors is the radion angle produced.You can imagine a 1/4 to look like a huge donut with no hole, about 25° for the radiation angle.At 1/2 this will be flattened out to around 20°.A 5/8 Lambda ntenna can get as low as 16°.Imagine it like a flashligh that has adjustable focus.The light source is of fixed output as your transmitter.The lens does the job of the antenna.If you make the beam more narrow then the light intensity of a certain areas at a certain distance will increase.Means for the radio you get a longer distance your signal can travel with enough energy.This however comes at a price!Imagine you are at the bottom of quite stepp mountain and your mate is up on the top about 2km above you.A high gain antenna with a narrow radion pattern might not even reach up there, while a short stubbie with just 3db still has a chance due to the more spherical radiation.Also explain why low gain and with that short antennas work best in hilly terrain...Back to the thick ones...As you can see you can basically hide any type of whip antenna into a fibreglass rod.But most of the are as said "ground independent", means unlike your normal whip they don't need the spring or foot to be of low resistance to your car's body.How does that work?Well, exactly like these ground independent whip antennas with a spring base or metal pole base work.You know the earliest antenna was a dipol - look it up on Wiki ;)For our CB radios that means you have a metal rod or spring that is about 1/4 or in some cases 1/4 of the wavelenght long.This is connected to the shielding of the coax cable and provides the required ground for the mounted antenna.The big difference is that only too often a dirt cheap dipol is hiding in your expensive fibreglass rod ;)The complete antenna might bring over 2kg on a scale, but the actual thing allowing you to receive and transmit is a few grams of coax cable...HOLD ON A MINUTE!! Some will say now...My whip is 70cm long and my expensive heavy duty one with 9db is 2m long - how does that work with your wavelength theory??Well, it is not my theory, just a fact ;)Imagine a 1/4 Lambda dipol, then it would be all up around 35cm long.And funny enough, that is about the length of a $180 heavy duty stubby if you just tak the rod itself.Go 1/2 of Lambda and you get an overall length of the dipol of around 65cm - add the metal rod making the crew that holds the fibreglass rod and you have the common 70-75cm heavy duty antenna...Anything above this length usually is either just a long rod with noting above the 75cm mark or simple has the 75cm long dipol made from the coax cable at the top with the antenna cable going down the otherwise empty rod.Ok, I got it, either 1/2 of the wavelength or 1/4, so about 35 or 16cm long.Ground independent we add either 1/4 for the spring base and rod or 1/2 for the longer ones.And how again does it work with the gain of an antenna?If you trust Wiki then it comes down to the radiation pattern.These heavy duty antennas usually come with around 6 or 9db, the short ones with 3-4.5db.These values might give you an indication about the theoretically possible distance you can transmit but nothing about the terrain it is suited for.Common rules of thumb created by those selling antennas and radios is that you a high gain antenna on flat terrain and a low gain antenna in a hilly area.Around 4.5-6db seems to be the golden ratio here as these anteannas are equally bad for both extremes in terms of terrain options.What you really would need to know is the actual radiation patterns in a three dimensional plane.A straight whip or dipol as a more or less donut shapead radiation pattern.However, location affects this!Mounted in the middle of the roof it is closest to perfect, while at the corner of your bumper bar you will distord the donut and also block parts out with the body of your car.This is why for this type of mounting elevated antennas are prefered.Makes no sense to have a 16cm long stubbie mounted so the top is still lower than your bonnet...Any antenna with a loading coil (or several) or top load will have a distinctively different pattern.We speak of so called "lobes".If you see it in 2D then for example a 1/2 lambda straight whip will look a bit like the infinity symbol.A 1/4 Lambda of the same style looks more like two ping pong bats joined without the handles.Those with loading coils or linear arrays made from coax cable however can produce multiple, prefered lobes.Usually they are in the 4-6db range and claim to be "universal" or as "allrounder".Here you get a quite narrow main lobe of 12-16° with one or more but much shorter lobes going upwards at about 10-30° depending on the configuration.At short range, like in hilly terrain both lobes overlap while you get a dead area at greater distances.You can sometimes notice that when you are on a low level talking to someone up high.There are cases when with a bit more difference in angle to each other (in terms of height and distance) the signal jumps up a few numbers.You just went from the dead zone into the lobe ;)With just a db value for the anteanna but no details about the actual design, heavy duty antennas can fool you badly.In mayn cases a 1/2 Lambda straight whip on the roof will outperform a costly, heavy duty antenna mounted to your bullbar.This is the reason why the expensive ones are the biggest cheat - they just elevate a quite small antenna above your roof line.And since it is heavy it needs a big spring and you hope it will not break if you hit something on a narrow track.All while the thin stainless stell whip with the cheap magnetic base just flexes under all obstacles with no damage at all.Plus, if you really get into the thick jungle you can just take the magnet off until you are through LOLWhy is a SWR and power meter still an important tool to invest into?Those remembering or still using 27-MHz radios only know too well why you need a proper SWR and power meter.With the lenght of the antenna at these low frequencies and affecting factors new the antenna proper tuning is a must.The bandwidth of the channels also means you have to tune the lowest and highest channel so the are basically even, anything else and the old guys would scream "UNACCEPTABLE!" ;)Especially it you want to get the last out of your system without going illegal.For some reason we accepted the claims that an SWR reading of around 1:2 is fine and acceptable.Most of the radios lower the power output to protect the transmitter if the SWR goes to far out.Allows for simple mass production of antennas with fixed cable lengths that are usually well overpriced.The most expensive bit is the cable itself here...I had no time to build an analog SWR and pwoer meter that works properly on 27 and 470MHz, so I ordered cheap SW30 from China.With that I first checked my little collection of antennas then those of some of my friends.This includes everything from short rubber duckies over loaded and straight whips to heavy duty models.One thing that was obvious right away: most are far away from an SWR readin anyone with a 27MHz groundplane antenna on a long mast would accept.And only one heavy duty antenna had a SWR readin of below 1:1.6 for channel 1 AND channel 40!That one was relatively cheap noname brand.With that sorted I decided to tune at least my steel whip antennas.To my utter disappointment they were all just a tiny bit too short - a thing that would have caused a proper 27MHz antenna manufacturer to to keep a large stockpile of his antennas...I had one though that was longer than needed.And before you ask: Yes, I tested them on both my elevated bullbar mount AND a direct mount on the roof rack.Did not change much for the bad ones so I ignored the mounting position for the tuning.I checked the power once for both channels on my prefered antenna and got 4.4W.Mind you that one has a SWR reading of 1:2.2 and will no longer be used as I can't be bothered to make it longer.For some reason I thought I check the SWR and power everytime I cut a bit off the antenna instead of just watching the SWR reading.At original length I had a SWR of 1:1.9 on ch40 and 1:1.75 on ch1 with 4.6W.I kept trimming down by about 2mm increments until I got an even readin of 1:1.07 on both channels.And with every trim the power went up a little bit.I have a friend that is or better, was just at the brink of being unable to reach from my driveway when he is parked in front of his house.A radio check after the tuning revealed that instead of coming with a lot of static noise and sometimes cut out I got a solid reading of 2 on his end with a much more acceptable level of noise.However, I still struggles as badly to hear him...Funny thing is that test was with just a plain and straight whip of 1/2 Lambda, in my case the tuning resulted in a length of 38cm from the base of antenna screw to the tip.My fancy 9db high gain antenna that is just over 70cm long did not even reach him while I could hear him slightly better than on my tuned one.Changing the mounting to the roof rack gave me a clear reception and a signal strength of 4 at my friends end with no noise.Elevation and nothing around the antenna does matter...After all this, would I still bother to buy a ready to go antenna for 470MHz?Only if I had to.Getting some RG58 cable or re-using it from on old antenna is cheap enough.A standard screw mount with a grub screw to hold a steel whip sets you back less than 10 bucks, from China even cheaper.And most will find a soldered on connector on the other end of an old antenna to be salvaged if required.If you don't have any sring steel wire of about 40cm length then think out of the box ;)The packing of pillows and such often come with a sring steel wire to make the plasitc floil keep its shape, some old suitaces have thicker wire doing the same.And if you ask nicely you might get a bristle or two for free from a street sweeping machine at your councils depot ;)After all we only need a maximum of 40cm to have enough left to trim and tune down.What is left to do?Of course some distance tests to check how well such a simple antenna really really works in comparison to commercial models.I only have one 9db antenna and will check it first to see if on flat terrain there is much difference in distance for transmitting.Unless this difference is well above one kilometer I will not bother with a high gain antenna like this anymore and instead opt for a longer mast and 1/2 Lambda.Another thing on the to do list to try a ground plane antenna with topload to squeeze the radion lobe down to under 15°.The resulting antenna would be quite short here and using an elevated mast is a must have to get over roof level with at leat a few wavelengths of distance to the roof.I guesstimate that an optimised antenna of this style should result in a distance increase of about 10-15km of flat terrain while being utterly useless in a hilly areas.Plus, such a design is not really suited for a vehicle going fast on a freeway, so it will go on my house instead.

Topic by Downunder35m