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Some Comfy Handle Mod's For The TR

These are some comfy handle mod's that i made for the TR by KILLERK.

Topic by bigdylan91    |  last reply


SR-v2 Mods

SR-v2. Minor mods to stock, handle, handle to stock to barrel connections, and slingshot. There are orange connector w/ Y-Piece connections from the handle to the stock, as well as from the stock to the barrel. I will post a picture detailing where if you like. Enjoy.1) Gun2) Slingshot mods.3) Stock mods.4) Connection/handle mods*.*See the small bit on the bottom to the right? It's a bunch of red connectors. Note how it's attached. You can use this to make the entire barrel. It's quite sturdy, just a but of weakness when it twists.

Topic by DELETED_Gilrostwo    |  last reply



PC mouse Mod

I have always wanted to see my electrical usage in real time. However, the watt meters available can not handle whole house wattage. I have an idea but lack the programing skills to pull it off. Use a modified usb mouse to read the dial as it spins and tabulate the totals. Because of the distance through the glass to the meter disk- a laser pointer may have to be used. Required to work: USB mouse Modified mouse driver- must not be recognized as a mouse in the PC customizable display output. Laser pointer? Anyway, if someone could help with the software that would be great- Thanks

Topic by ryancey777    |  last reply


Lever Action Rifle MODS

A few modifications I made last night to knex mad's Lever Action Rifle. Modifications include: Better Lever, more comfortable handle, and some barrel mod's. Enjoy.

Topic by Raikou-san    |  last reply


ZKAR Review and Mods

So I recently built the ZKAR V2 by Zak on KI. Direct link: http://knexinnovation.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t;=711 My mods: Safety Comfort in the front Pusher mod What to expect with above mods: (out of 10(ratings not in parentheses are with above mods and ratings in parentheses are with out above mods)): Looks: 9 (8) - Could do without the trigger piece on the top of the gun. Comfort: 8 (7) - I have not modded the handle, and the pin guide is kind of in the way of sighting. Ease of Use: 10 (9) - All you need to do is pull then push the bolt(with the exception of going slower than usual) and loading the mag is very easy. Coolness: 10 (9) - True bolt action, safety, and stupendous power and accuracy. Will "blow" your freinds away! Piece consumption: 8 (8) - Uses quite a few pieces, and before DJ Radio got a shipment of knex, he couldn't build it. *Note: These next three are with 1 big, red rubberband(about 3/4 a centimeter wide) from a slingshot kit* Power: 8 (8) - From thirty feet away, my sister said she could feel a slight sting for a second. Could be better, but still very good. And, can penetrate cardboard from 25 feet. Accuracy: 8 (8) - 38 feet Range: 9 (9) - flat-45 feet angled-70 feet Overall: 70 out of 80 Average rating: 8.5 Great as a... Primary rifle: 8 - Could be a little better, but it is very cool. Secondary: 5 - very bulky and large piece amount. Just a fun gun to play with: 10 - Very fun. If you would like me to P0$T the safety and comfort mod, just let me know.

Topic by chopstx    |  last reply


Not a rectangle review+mods

This is a review of oodalumps's "not a rectangle" with bakenbitz's stock.  One hasn't been done yet so I will do one now. Body: Stock: 9/10 Bakenbitz's stock is strong, but the individual walls are still somewhat flimsy.  Nothing blue rods can't remedy though. Handle: 8/10 Comfortable and sturdy but the trigger guard kinda takes away from it in my opinion. Barrel: 8/10 Innovative and sturdy, but extremely hard to build.  My hands didn't hurt too bad though. looks: 8/10. Looks simple, but still looks great IMO Performance: Range: 10/10 160 feet flat with 6 #64's. Power: 10/10 There's a few boxes that no knex gun has shot through before, this gun shot all the way through.  There was even a box with another box behind it, it shot all the way through BOTH of them, fins and everything Accuracy: 10/10 I made a custom ironsight for it (very accurate) and my friend shot clean through the center of a cheez-it from 20 feet.  I'm serious, straight through the tiny black hole in the middle. ROF: 5/10.  It's a single-shot, so you have to manually reload it.  Also the fact that you have to pull back a bunch of bands at once for the best reload times slows you down somewhat. Innovation: 9/10 The concept of a balljoint at the front taking the impact of the pin instead of the back of the gun is a great concept, but I hate that that's all there is to it. Final word: I was very impressed with the performance of the gun.  It's the most powerful gun I have ever built.  I recommend it to anyone looking for a single shot. Final score: 9/10 Mods: Custom ironsight (mine) Trigger guard mod

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


Moded spider massacre v 2.0 with my new handle mods and sight stuff...

Here are some pictures of the original spider massacre (v 2.0) and my moded spider massacre v 2.0Top gun is the originalBottom gun is the new (Pic 1 Pic 2) EEK MY FOOT ITS IN THE PICTURE... WOW its so small its actually bigger just a little.. my foots small cause ... o crap need to keep with the box stuff.... cause... im box-asian there ya go. My foot is smal cause im box - asian... ;D! Ekk how did my ds get in there.... oopsI ran out of colored connectors and black rods... i didnt want to use a grey rod so i used a red... =)Tell me what you think of my mods.. should i post them or should i leave it here?

Topic by mrbox    |  last reply


Mod of Katarukito's Knex slingshot prototype

This is a modification of the sling shot prototype made by Katarukito's (I hope i spelt that right) knex prototype sling shot knex gun. It can pierce cardboard at fifteen feet away with one band and twenty to thirty feet away with two rubberbands (UNSHARPENED BULLET) I modified the barrel with a new barrel, that may look ugly but if you want i can take off the blue and red connectors that make the humps/ scales of what i call... Dragon Head Knex Gun DHKG well i didn't intend on putting those there but it turned out as a dragon and well, i went with it... the barrel doesn't bend and when or if i do post it, all credits go to Katarukito! Enjoy! Sorry for the blurry pictures it was night time and i had to pee like a race horse... Pic 1: The bullet - A red rod or tan rod with tan clip Pic 2: Front view (DRAGON HEAD) - Front of the gun where rubberbands go Pic 3: Another front view (Barrel) - Front of the gun better picture Pic 4: A view of the back (Part of Kataturi's knex gun prototype moded) - View of barrel and handle Pic 5: Better picture of back (Katarukito's prototype still able to be seen, just modified) Pic 6: Full gun - (the full DHKG) - Aprox. Two to two and half feet long ~ Pic 7: A view of the gun loaded - Gun is loaded Pic 8: A view of the gun loaded from the front Pic 9: Back of the gun with sights

Topic by mrbox    |  last reply


Check It Out NOW

Zak inspired KILLERK approved! basically Mepain's Trigger Zaks idea my redesign super strong super comfortable handle with an unbreakable trigger whats not to like?

Topic by Knex Lego Maniac    |  last reply


Official Rules, Scoochmaroo Challenge: T-Shirt Mods

PLEASE REVIEW THESE OFFICIAL RULES BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST.  ENTRANTS WHO ARE MINORS: YOU MUST OBTAIN THE CONSENT OF YOUR PARENT OR LEGAL GUARDIAN BEFORE ENTERING THE CONTEST. ENTRY TO THE CONTEST IS FREE AND NO PAYMENT OR PURCHASE IS NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN, EXCEPT FOR THE STANDARD CHARGES OF YOUR INTERNET ACCESS PROVIDER. A PAYMENT OR PURCHASE WILL NOT IMPROVE YOUR CHANCES OF WINNING. VOID WHERE PROHIBITED BY LAW. BY ENTERING THE CONTEST YOU ACKNOWLEDGE THAT YOU HAVE READ AND AGREE TO THE TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF THE INSTRUCTABLES TERMS OF SERVICE AND PRIVACY POLICY   SECTION A – SPECIFIC TERMS FOR THIS CONTEST   Sponsor. The Instructables Scoochmaroo Weekly Challenge: T-Shirt Mods (the “Contest”) is an on-line contest with skill, ability and knowledge components that is sponsored by Autodesk, Inc., a Delaware corporation having its principal office at 111 McInnis Parkway, San Rafael, CA 94103, USA (“Sponsor”), in connection with the Instructables service and website, www.instructables.com, (the “Sponsor Site”). The Contest is co-sponsored by the company or companies listed here, if any (each, a “Co-Sponsor”): None. The Contest is governed by these Official Rules (these “Rules”). For any questions regarding the Contest, the Sponsor may be contacted by email at [service@instructables.com] or by phone at (01-510-473-7626) or by mail at the address identified in Section B.18 (“Winner’s List; Mailing List”) below. Overview; Object of the Contest. 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Topic by scoochmaroo  


Johnhall14's Tactical Shotgun v2 Mods and Review

Whatup! So I built Johnhall14's Tactical Shotgun v2. It was pretty ownage, but there were a few things that popped out at me as annoying, but easily fixed/modded: -Underbarrel shotgun's trigger guard kinda got in the way and was flimsy -No sights -Handle guard broke a lot; got annoying -Pin pull was obstructed by lots of yellow connectors -Trigger was a little short (imo) -Pin got stuck on pin block when being pulled back Now, these are all the negative things, but in the original gun, the positives outweigh them. Here are all the things I love about this gun: -Powerful. This gun is actually really, really, powerful. -Looks pretty nice -Mag is easy to use and looks cool -Underbarrel shotgun is awesome and really fun to shoot -Shoots 3 bullets per shot, with a mag. Now that's firepower. -Great range for a shotgun: 35-50 feet So I decided to mod the gun and fix all the things that annoyed me. Here's what my mods have done: +No more underbarrel shotgun trigger guard +Simple sights (better than nothing) +Reinforced handle guard +Pin no longer obstructed, which actually makes the gun look cooler (imo) +Thicker handle (May not be a plus for some people) and sturdier stock +Revised mech so pin doesn't get stuck +Metallic 6th and 7th layers, even on mag +Modded mag that shoots one bullet at a time +Easy to grip pin This gun, after mods, is probably one of my favorites that I've ever built. It's powerful, it's got some serious firepower, and it looks awesome, which can't hurt. Props to Johnhall14, this gun is awesome! ANYWAY, check out the video of this gun in action! DISCLAIMER: I edited the video so times in between reloads were cut out. The ROF shown is really inaccurate, and it's much slower than you're about to see. The ROF is still good, but it's not this fast. More Mods/Review -  Red's Reliable (R3)  

Topic by FlyingFish10    |  last reply


What mods do my knex SP-6 magnum pistol need? Answered

I want to know what the SP-6 Magnum needs to make it better and to be the best out there in the knex gun world.

Question by beanieostrich    |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


My K'nex True Trigger Gun

Now...HBF's first gun...The barrel credits go to faustThe handle is a mod of tomboyrme's 9mm gun. The ram is a simple red rod with a yellow connector and a blue rod stuck on.Sorry about the bad picture, I only got one.

Topic by HBF    |  last reply


My never-published K'nex creations

These are just a couple of my creations that I never posted. I'm don't have most of them anymore, so don't even ask for me to post. Hope you like them! 1 And 2 are my gatling gun. This was a great gun, but the motor was not powerful enough to push the triggers. I liked it because it had the switch for the motor build right onto the handle. 3 And 4 are my version of spider massacre. It was a great gun, it shot 60 feet with 2 rubberbands (the ones on in the picture). 5 And 6 are a really good magazine I made. 7 Is my modded dd-27. It was not a big mod, but it is still one of my favorite guns. 8 Is my Semi-Auto. This was a excellent gun, but took a while to reload. 9: The front of my modded Pineapplebob's sniper. This mod helped a lot. 10 is my sniper. Silentassasin actually made a Instructable for this one. 11 and 12: A really old mod of foresthell12's gun. it was excellent. Redneckobseesed expanded a little more on this one and came up with the ROSP. Thats it! Thanks for having a look at this forum.

Topic by I_am_Canadian    |  last reply


adamsdead shotgun 2.0

Here all all the mods i made for the adamsdead shotgun. way better hopper that holds 20 blue rods and does not jam. extended pump good sight and some what of a handle two bendy yellow rod to make the gun look more like a shotgun.

Topic by dsman195276    |  last reply


Can I upgrade a cheaper motor controller to handle more current? Answered

I know the answer to "Can I do [blank]?" is always "Yes!... with enough time and effort."  I'm looking more for the economical breakdown of how to figure if it's worth the time and effort to do a mod, or if it's "better" to just buy off-the-shelf. I have a 250W motor controller for a 250W motor on a small scooter.  I have recently come upon a 500W motor, same voltage and also PMDC just like the 250W.  Now, I'm assuming that the main difference between the two is probably the number/quality of the transistors being used to control current.  So I'm thinking it's reasonable that if I were to just "double" the transistors, I could get "double" the current.  (P=V*I and all)   Of course, make sure heatsink can handle dissipations, might run into current limiting if there's some current sensing happening, etc... but in short, is my train of thought correct or at least headed in the right direction?  I find there's a bit of a gap between "Introduction to PWM/ESCs 101!" and "DIY Motor Controllers from SCRATCH!" that isn't very well documented.  I think I'm fitting in right there.

Question by jongscx    |  last reply


how to make a standard on/off rc car have variable acceleration? also how to soften rubber?

I bought a "bigtime muscle" rc car from walmart to hack and mod, one of the mods being making the car have variable acceleration. this car has a rather simple receiver board and a unidentifiable control chip, but how to higher grade rc's make their acceleration variable? is that on the car or in the remote? also, the car had rather tough/hard tires on it, so it has very bad grip/handling, is there any way i can soften the tires, or would i have to buy new ones that are softer?

Question by zack247    |  last reply


Are there any guides to restoring little red wagons?

I have one of those old Radio Flyer red wagons, it was a wonderful little toy when I was a kid, but now it is a rusty and sad thing in my backyard. The wheels still work, the handle still turns, but the wheels have big patches of rust, and so does the metal container on top of the wheels. I wanna make it look good again, maybe mod it a bit?

Question by xakh    |  last reply


The ultimate knex gun

This is a competition for the ultimate knex gun, with a difference - you vote for the best parts of any knex gun on the site, and i mod them a bit and put them together! voting ends december 31st and i will post a picture on january 1st! Class 1:handle Class 2:stock Class 3:barrel Class 4:Hand grip Class 5: sight Happy voting! :D

Topic by The Jamalam    |  last reply


New K'nex!

I have new K'nex being shipped to my house on Friday Sept 6th! Plan on seeing pics here of my latest K'nex War 2013 "Jared Resistant" TR8 mod package! The "Jared Resistant" Mod Pack includes the following: improved stronger turret with "5th" layer and green rods allowing for tan clips saving on blue clips Much improved more solid turret rod connection Brand spanking new trigger for more consistent reliable trigger pull Much improved ratchet mech Brand new super solid slide/charging handle for much easier to operate gun

Topic by Knex Lego Maniac    |  last reply


Basic Oodammo Rifle Prototype 2.5 *With some internal pics*

(Update 2.5) I cannot be bothered anymore to put anything else on this gun, so anyone who wants to build this gun form the pics, they are allowed to build and post the mods as long as they credit me.  The current stats as it stands: * Range = 40ft with one # 64 band * Powerful * Very easy to use * High ROF * Can be easily adapted for left handed shooters (just build it like the V1 with the panel on the other side) * Fairly reliable with the mags * Handle connection is very strong unless you try to break it deliberately (which means it wont come unattached in wars) * Iron sights are accurate to about 25 to 30ft There are now pics of some internals at the end. Enjoy building and modding if you do decide to do that. 

Topic by beanieostrich    |  last reply


Airsoft Equipment? Answered

Hey guys, I have an upcoming air soft field game coming up and was wondering what other gear I should get and what i should use. As of right now I have: Echo1 Tactical M4 Red Dot/Flip Up/Carry Handle Sight Grenade Launcher/Bi pod/Fore grip Secondary Gas Blow-back M1911 Modded Spring shotgun Rpg Tactical Gear Camo Shirt Pants Mag pouch Holster Gloves Boots Tactical Backpack

Question by KnexFreak360    |  last reply


BAW by the dunkis posted by another guy review

Reliability 5 out of 10 sometimes i need to push the pusher up power: 5 out of 10 (i only had 2 64's on it) comfort: 8 out of 10 handle and stock are both great mag: 3 out of 10 sometimes need to push the pusher up looks: 9 out of 10 looks cool i modded the gun a bit but overall it is about a 7 out of 10

Topic by cj81499    |  last reply


Airsoft Equipment?

Hey guys, I have an upcoming air soft field game coming up and was wondering what other gear I should get and what i should use. As of right now I have:     Echo1 Tactical M4     Red Dot/Flip Up/Carry Handle Sight     Grenade Launcher/Bi pod/Fore grip Secondary     Gas Blow-back M1911     Modded Spring shotgun     Rpg Tactical Gear     Camo Shirt Pants     Mag pouch     Holster     Gloves     Boots     Tactical Backpack

Topic by KnexFreak360    |  last reply


TR contest

OK This my second attempt at a contest (hopefully it works this time) . This is very simple post pics of your Tr-18/8/ what ever turret size you have, and list of features and every one who wants will vote on the one they like the best. simple enough.  Voting deadline: ended ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- votes (feel free to recount to see that i did not cheat) ninjusk=5 Logic boy=3 bigdylan91=1 Dj=0 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------   Contestants DJ Radio (pic #1) Original trigger guard that extends from the grip - Original ironsights Adjustments made since the picture: - Removal of the ratchet mod since it was too much trouble - Extention of the stock. Ninjusk (pic #2,3) custom stock, Front and rear sights ,and ammo holder in stock (with pin lock). updates not in pic, under barrel grenade launcher(had bad range), trigger guard (didnt like it so i took it off) bigdylan91 (pic #4) -modded rubberband thing -i guess you can say custom stock -and i guess custom handle Logic boy (pic #5) new iron sights new stock modded futher, now has a flip up rear sight, it has no real use unless you are holdind it straight out in front.

Topic by ninjusk    |  last reply


work in progress *NEW pics added 10-29-10

Thanks to zak baken mepain ooda an everyone else who helped come up with the countless mods and ideas that have helped make the TR what it has become... ive always wanted to make a sturdier stock but just never invested the time into making one so... now ive found out what works well and what look i like and have started going with it don't mind the front/body of the gun cause it is not really a TR anyway im going to keep working with the design and make it look all pretty and whatnot and hopefully get some more pics up for you all soon! anyway enjoy and plz note the pics are just ideas and no where near the finished product 8-28-10 alright so here are the latest pics (pics4-5) i think it will look better with the TR series however it isn't as sturdy as the other designs but none the less it is still sturdier than previous models and strong enough to keep the gun aligned w/ 6 size 64 rubberbands cocked loaded and ready to fire (which btw is enough to shoot fin ammo clear past the 300ft mark) im still working on it and have more models/designs on the way so i highly don't recommend building anything until i finish up but if you like experimenting around then shoot for it anyway im going to get back to work and see what i can come up with o ya btw i highly recommend using the wheels on the handle it is sooo comfortable 8-29-10 pics 7-10 so i modded up the handle again and reconfigured how the bottom rail attached to it... finally everything is aligned properly and everything seems to be holding strong. its still continually being worked on but i think im getting closer to finish product 12-29-10 its been awhile since ive worked on knex however i thought i should share a pic of the gun so far hence pic11 it is a TR w/ ratchet nice sturdy stock still allows for a slide if wanted "best handle ever" trigger that never fails sturdy as hek firing pin bla bla bla... long story short it is simply reliable as it is sexy ; P but seriously i have it set up for my TR8 turret or my chain mod which i will be posting up sooner than later or so i hope

Topic by Knex Lego Maniac    |  last reply


SR Commando v1- NOW POSTED!

I have been hyping this gun up in the chatroom for a bit, so I got a pic today.This is A combo of my 2 best knex guns I ever built- The AR-4 Commando v2, and the Longbow v2. I made it mostly for the innovative ideas it brought, but i wanted to see if it was possible to combine the AR-4 v2 and Longbow v2.This gun uses an extremely reliable BRAND NEW sear system trigger which never misfires or jams, I thought of making a double-ratchet system and put it in a super modded Longbow handle. The stock Is an uber modded AR-4 commando stock. Same thing with the barrel.It is a single shot, but it can have a mag. Range is 40-50 feet (one rubbeband).the second pic is a close up of the mech.The only con I can think of atm is that this gun is sorta skeletony at the bottom. But its extremely sturdy neverthelessOk, I changed the name because I thought it would be less confusing and more appropriate.

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


DGM's Blazer Sniper Rifle

I am reviewing Darth Gecko Man's latest sniper! What to expect: Strength: 8/10 Why: Small chance it will break. Range: 7/10 Why: Too effected by wind with the original bullet Looks: 8/10 Why: Looks good. It is nice and small. Parts: Handle: 5/10 Why: Way too small. Cant fit my hand Stock: 0/10 Why: No Stock!!!! Barrel: 0/10 Why: No Barrel! Fake barrel: 8/10 Why: Works easily and look good Bipod: 0/10 Why: No bipod!!! (This is not necissary. I am just noting that it does not have one. Please no more argueing) Modability: 10/10 Why: This gun is very easy to modify and would be great for beginners to play around with. Even I made a mod of it by adding a stock and moving the front handle to the rear and making the rear handle part of the stock. In the end: Erganomics are not too good. Feels too small. BUT in a knex war it would be good not as a sniper but as a secondary weapon. The trigger system cant hold too much pressure but for a medium range weapon it is good Creator: Darth Gecko Man Gun: Blazer v1 Sniper Rifle

Topic by ajleece    |  last reply


EAP Vs. Oodassault V3

Well the oodassault V3 was in part a challenge to DJ at first. I also challenged the comment by KSC that he could and would make a new oodammo pistol that would be better than mine if I were to make a new one. We seemed a little hard-edged at first but we turned it around into a friendly competition. You guys are the judges. The instructions are simple. Just rate the EAP and the Oodassault V3 both out of 5 of how much you liked each of them. I'll count them up when we have plenty of comments. That way we can see ultimately which people not only prefer but how popular overall they were. I personally think it's pretty close. Feel free to tell us what you want us to improve on so that we could try making the perfect oodammo pistol. Please put your ratings at the very beginning of your post and try to limit other comments so that I can total them up easier. EAP and Oodassault shared Pros -Strong structural designs -Triggers built for power -Comfortable Handles -High cap mags -5 layered with few blue rods sticking out -both can be loaded while half loaded. EAP Pros -Probably a bit stronger structurally -Doesn't require as many black Ys -Stronger magazine -Chances of firing more than one or the magazine breaking are slim -Fast front loading -Internal Mag pusher Cons -Bigger -Harder to aim -Uses Wheels for handle -Best requires a modified piece for trigger Oodassault Pros -Pretty compact aside from magazine -Comfortable handle without use of wheels -Tilting mag that locks back -Can accept stripper clips or detaching rod clips -Trigger guard and safety (simple mod I made later. I can explain it if people really want it) -No modded pieces needed Cons -Uses more Black Ys -Less sturdy magazine -Less reliable firing -External Mag pusher

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


new knex gun

Hey i have made a new knex rubberband gun its still in beta testing but i am defenitley going to post it here and i dont yet have a picture of it (i cant use my moms camera) so i will work my best in mlcad its just killerks srv1 handle with a barell of my own creation i made it when i noticed i did not have enough peices to make his gun so i modded mine to make it rubberband gun compatable and i have done this a long time ago but i moded my knife and made a switch blade knife so if you want me to post the upgrades/new stuff yeah i will try and get a video up of each thing soon

Topic by J_SCAP  


KSAR

KSAR - Knex Standard Assault Rifle. Just as the title said, nothing special, but very good. It's a grey connector shooter, but can easily be modded to a blue rod mag. It has a great working removable magazine, good strong stock, pin guide, long fake barrel, I like the style of the sights, anyways overall it's pretty cool. But yeah, nothing special. The only 'new' is the front handle, but yeah who cares about that. I think it's really hard to add something new on an assault rifle. I mean the 'real' magazine system on guns is impossible to make on knex guns, and I can't think of something else what would be a big difference. Full-auto or semi-auto of course, but that's just hard to make it on a good-loking assault rifle. Tell me what you think.

Topic by mahmel    |  last reply


Oodassault-Pistol Review

Here is my take on the Oodassault-Pistol By TheDunkis.Link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Oodassault-Pistol/Before I start, I'd like to highly recommend it.Trigger:Strong,Realistic,and reliable.Also has a safety, and is very innovative.Mag:Small, but it is very reliable. Note that it is slow to reload.Is also very new.Handle:Not much to say, but it feels good,and is very sturdy.Barrel:It looks iffy, but it is really good.The bullets fly extremely straight, and are pretty powerful.Overall:Innovation: 10/10 Almost all of this gun is 100% TD.Accuracy 10/10 I can hit a small target from 20 feet using the sights. Trigger: 9/10 Feels great, and is very reliable.Strength: 8/10 Like most 3-layer pistols, it could be broken quite easily.Range: 8/10 It shoots quite far, and maintains it's accuracy.Comfort 8/10 Trigger feels very good, and so does the handle.Reload: 8/10 The mag is slow to reload,but it is VERY reliable. Mod room: 8/10 This gun could have many mods for various reasons.It is built so you can easily change things like: Change ammo type (?)Add longer barrel, stock...etc.....Looks 7/10 It's not very realistic, but it looks cool.Raw Power: 7/10 Oodammo tends to be not very damaging, but it more than makes up for that with it's accuracy.83/1008/104*I love this gun. Love it.But the mag is too small and slow to reload.This makes a great sidearm, but just don't plan on reloading this while running away from the enemy.Link: https://www.instructables.com/id/Oodassault-Pistol/ It would make a good gun to make two of then have a mini war

Topic by Bartboy    |  last reply


Piezo triggered LED Strip with multiple static and flashing colour? Answered

Hi There are already a few threads and topics on this site explaining how to hook up a piezo triggered light strip, however I'm looking to build a custom drum kit with particular lighting system and i can't find the info I need to build it.  Inside the drums I want a constant, static colour of my choice on the led strip (e.g. blue) and then the piezo trigger triggers that LED strip to to different colour (e.g. red) for a quick flash and then back to blue. I would also like to have control over which colour combinations I use, so if i want yellow drums with green flashes, i would hopefully be able change that with a remote.  Is there a circuit or a mod of an existing circuit that will handle my needs?  Cheers,  Owen

Question by oesheppard    |  last reply


A couple new Knex guns of mine

Here's some pictures of guns I've made lately. I most likely won't make instructions because they use too many pieces for most people to build. Tell me what you guys think. Cannon 2.0: This cannon mod shoots rods instead of blocks of Knex. I can say without a doubt, it is the farthest shooting Knex gun out there (yes, farther than KILLERK's pistol). And no more crap-handle :3 Pump-action fully-auto: I made this yesterday. It's a pump-action that gives 6 shots for 1 pump. Because I haven't built a good trigger for it yet, it is shot by pressing down that thing sticking out of the top (shoots 1 at a time, but very quickly depending on how fast you press it) . Shoots green rods with surprising accuracy and distance. Holds 42 bullets. Doubt I will post.

Topic by oodalumps    |  last reply


Piezo Triggered LED lighting with a twist!

Hi There are already a few threads and topics on this site explaining how to hook up a piezo triggered light strip, however I'm looking to build a custom drum kit with particular lighting system and i can't find the info I need to build it. Inside the drums I want a constant, static colour of my choice on the led strip (e.g. blue) and then the piezo trigger triggers that LED strip to to different colour (e.g. red) for a quick flash and then back to blue. I would also like to have control over which colour combinations I use, so if i want yellow drums with green flashes, i would hopefully be able change that with a remote. Is there a circuit or a mod of an existing circuit that will handle my needs? Cheers, Owen

Topic by oesheppard    |  last reply


G33 Assault Rifle

This is an old gun I was about to take apart to make my M4, but I thought maybe someone wanted to make this. If I get enough positive feedback and enough people ask me to make instructions, I will. It features: Non-removable 10+ shot magazine New-Style Floating trigger mechanism/string (ask for details) foward handle(optional) stock (crap, but could always be modded) Specs: Range 60 feet Accuracy: Up to 25 feet Reliability: Medium/High (never jams) Modifiable: Yes If I do eventually post this gun, I will also post the other interchangeable parts (actual magnifying scope, longer barrel, telescoping stock) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ EDIT: I destroyed the gun but it is probably easy to make from the pictures if you want, and if you still need any help, you can ask me.

Topic by flames10391    |  last reply


How can I improve the proformance and appearance of my 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer ES without voiding the dealer warranty?

Im looking to improve the appearance, performance, handleing, horsepower, torque and the "get up and go" factor. I cannot make a permenent modification (or one that cant be removed without showing little signs of it) because that would void my dealer bumper to bumper and/or powertrain warranties. I do know things can be done without voiding the warranties that would give me some results, however I dont know what they are. I also cant afford major upgrades due to lack of money. please tell me what, if anything, I can do to put the "street car" edge on my own car

Question by fastcar123    |  last reply


DarkOwlKnex's Project Update Five

As of late, I have been modding Bijou, my magical rifle, and making Short Deluxe Extended Playtime Albums for certain characters.   (You can see the four original Homestuck Kids' soundtracks here.  Don't fret, you don't have to be a fan of Homestuck to enjoy the albums; in my opinion, it's good music, and as the albums are based on a certain character, they are based on a theme to some extent.) (There is going to be soundtracks for the ponies from My Little Pony; Dr. Richtofen and I have been collaborating on what songs to pick.) In addition to those two things, I have been working on a new pistol, that I'm going to call Insight.  It is a super compact pistol that is different from all others because of one thing: it has a tubular magazine.  To my knowledge, it's the most compact tubular magazine gun to date.  The pictures show the gun and how to load it. Insight also: Shoots green rods. (A downside for some, but a pro for others). Uses a red rod sized firing pin. Has a comfortable handle. Can hold up to five bullets at a time. Gets about 25 feet as of now.  (This is just the pre-beta version, so I will keep modding it until it goes farther) Requires no cut pieces. (Nor do any of my posted guns, come to think of it.) And... Yes, the gun has a theme song: Insight by Joy Division. That's pretty much it. DarkOwl Out...    ,     ,  (O,O) <(IIIII)>    I    I

Topic by DarkOwlProductions    |  last reply


Basic Assault Weapon *updated with inside pictures for building*

Maybe some of you saw my video on youtube. I decided I'd mod the gun a little and maybe think about posting it if you guys think it's post-worthy. And by post-worthy I mean would you build it? Anyways on to the details. This is a basic weapon that is mostly compact and pretty reliable. There are no big special features other than the magazine which is obviously removable and has an internal pusher, a roof, and it can be top loaded. With a quick change of pieces you could technically top load the magazine while it is in the gun though it may be a little tricky. The magazines slide right in and should stay put. I shaked it my hardest and it wouldn't fall out. Removing it is pretty simple. You just need to pop both sides individually. As you can see I ran low on pieces so I just used red rods for the stock. You can store an extra magazine in it like in the picture. Of course I put in a pin guide. The handle is average. I wasn't too concerned with it as people can mod it freely. The trigger was made to block farther back so that the gun wouldn't have to be a unit longer to get max power. Ranges with the rubber bands placed as shown were about 9 meters or 27 feet with the mag full. I suspect increased ranges as the magazine empties. It doesn't have a turret, bolt, or shells so I don't know if you consider that good enough or not.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


New AR-4 Commando v2-NOW POSTED

ITS POSTED!!!!!!!!!!!This is my latest knex gun, the AR-4 Commando v2. Now that i have gained more parts, i could fix the problems present in the v1.PROS=(a * means an improvement over the v1)-Jam-free mag-also removable in order to mod (its expandable)*-better handle*-more strength*-has a front grip*-stock is more filled in*-true trigger-comes with shoulder strap (optional)*-uses a dual-rail system-slightly more accurate than the v1*-auto-load*-35-40 foot range-has a sight*CONS-uses more parts than the v1-3/4 of the barrel is fake (yes, i tried to make it more accurate, but the ammo kept getting stuck)-takes longer to reload than v1 (mostly because it holds more)-pretty awkward when you use the front gripso, i will post this saturday (if i am not busy), and i hope you enjoy!

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply


MODpreFAB

muddywaters asked a question seeking cheap, possibly DIY, home building. There are lots of great answers to that post; some of the most interesting mentioning prefab and shipping container structures. I recently had reason to read Phoenix, AZ's main newspaper, which had an article entitled “Rehabbing PreFab”, discussing a local project at Taliesin West architecture school. Students are exploring the PreFabricated homes, with Modern architecture styling. Definitely a new take on PreFab. Exciting work, particularly the shipping container mod-mods. Doing a quick search turns up the website busyboo which has many articles regarding contemporary exploration of highly artistic PreFab units. The price of these designs is quite different from traditional prefab homes, partly a reflection of the limited market and partly the cache styling. What do y'all think?  Borrowing design ideas from these MODpreFAB companies, perhaps a DIY opportunity! $$$ Only fools buy retail $$ wholesale $ Those who can, DIY! The Arizona Republic article mentions the following companies experimenting with MODpreFAB: (Reproduced from print edition) ASUL: Phoenix AZ company that sells kits for onsite assembly (~$100/sq ft.) asul.us Hive Modular: Minneapolis, MN company rpoducing affordable modern homes. hivemodular.com Kithaus: California company offering small, connectable components ($25,000+ / 100 sq ft) kithaus.com LivingHomes: California developer (~$230 / sq ft) livinghomes.net Marmol Radziner: Los Angeles, CA company builds in factory with most appliances installed, then breaks apart sections for shipping (~$200 - $300 / sq ft) marmolradzinerprefab.com Method Homes: Seattle, WA company offering energy efficient prefabs (~$160+ / sq ft) methodhomes.net mkDesigns: Based on Instructables member! Michelle Kaufman design ($360,000) mkd-arc.com Mod Box: Phoenix, AZ project designed 10 ft sq cube space (~$35 - $60k / cube) v100modbox.com Modern Cabana: San Francisco, CA company building small, green component rooms (~$20,000 / unit + shipping and handling...) moderncabana.com Modern Shed: Seattle, WA company selling rectangular spaces ($11.2 – 81k) modern-shed.com Mod.Fab: Scottsdale, AZ project exploring a cool, transportable home (~$120k / 432 sq ft) taliesin.edu/pages/MODFAB.htm Rocio Romero: Missouri based designer of kit homes, some assembly required ($24,950 / 625 sq ft) rocioromero.com Upcycle Living: Phoenix, AZ company repurposing shipping containers into ModFab components ($100+ / sq ft) upcycleliving.com weeHouse: Minneapolis, MN company creating factory made, small homes (~$79k / 435 sq ft) weehouse.com

Topic by CrLz    |  last reply


Can you point the way to a DIY audience response system?

Audience response systems are invaluable tools in classrooms but I can't afford the $1.2K that companies want me to spend for a pack of 24 units! I've got 35+ students in my class! Background: Electronic audience response systems allows admins to poll a large number of users on a large amount of questions.My students (G9-12), in general, do have (newish) cell phones. (New cell phones, like new tennis shoes, are a status symbol and among even the poorest students I've seen them with new expensive cell phones). Most students do not have wireless enabled laptops/handheld computers/ accessible in the classroom. What's worse is that many school network admins flat deny student access to school's wireless for fear of security/porn/ inappropriate material etc.The open answer/polling time would need to be able to handle responses from a variety of inputs at different times i.e. little Johnny takes a little longer than Janey to answer the question so we can't have to wait for one student to enter their response before the next student. This time delay in fact would nearly defeat the purpose of gathering responses efficiently.I'm very interested in seeing if a blue tooth receiver/software package could handle the polling of 30+ cell phone connections at the same time.Your help in this matter has enormous potential to achieve a Johnny Lee wiiboard like effect on classrooms worldwide.Alternatives: paper pollingAs noted below, paper polling doesn't scale very well. If I'm performing secretarial duties of sorting paper then I'm not doing my job as a manager of a classroom and education. I feel that any teacher that is still pushing worksheets/quizzes/ etc. on paper then that teacher is working too hard and not working smart.IR remotesI've looked at trying to use off the shelf IR devices that could be used as a polling device. I believe the problem is in the IR receiver being able to identify each individual IR device. How to mod an IR so that it only has a unique signature connected to each signal?

Question by pleabargain    |  last reply


Revolver with swing out cylinder

I was looking at guns on Wikipedia and saw a pic of a revolver with a swing out cylinder. I went straight to work and made the swing out cylinder, but I couldn't figure out how to make the rest of the gun and keep the cylinder from moving all over the place. I don't have a digital camera, but I can tell you how I made it. 1. Take a blue rod 2. Attach a dark grey connector on 1 end of the rod 3. Put 1 grey cylinder spacer on the rod, followed by 2 blue ring spacers 4. Put the blue rod through the hole of another dark grey connector 5. Put 2 more blue ring spacers on, followed by 1 more grey cylinder spacer and attach 1 more dark grey connector to the other end of the blue rod 6. Take 1 white rod and snap on 2 white snowflake connectors, then snap the rod into the dark grey connector in the middle of the blue rod (the dark grey connector should be in the middle of the 2 white snowflake connectors) 7. Take another white rod and attach a dark grey connector on 1 end of it, then slide the white rod through the hole of 1 of the dark grey connectors on the blue rod, then slide on another grey cylinder spacer and attach 1 yellow connector on top of the white rod 8. Do #7, but on the other side of the blue rod 9. For the handle, I took 3 green connectors and snapped them on to 1 white rod, then put 3 small green rods on the bottom of each green connector (Look below to find a little bit better explanation) 10. Take 3 yellow connectors and attach them to a white rod, then connect all 3 to the 3 green rods mentioned in #9 11. Take 3 more green connectors and attach them to a white rod and add 3 small green rods to the top of the 3 green connectors and attach them to the 3 yellow connectors in #10 BETTER EXPLANATION 1. A green connector has 4 places for 4 rods (I will call them teeth) 2. From left to right, it goes empty tooth, white rod, empty tooth, small green rod 3. A yellow connector has 5 teeth for 5 rods 4. From left to right, it goes small green rod (from the green connectors mentioned above), white rod, empty tooth, empty tooth, small green rod 5. Same as #2, but it goes small green rod (from the yellow connectors mentioned above), white rod, empty tooth, empty tooth If anyone knows what I'm talking about and makes these pieces & has a digital camera, please take pics and show me so ppl can see what I'm talking about. Also, if anyone finds out how to make the rest of the gun, please tell me and show me how you made it (but please don't take credit for my design of the cylinder & handle. If you mod/have to mod any of these 2 parts to make the rest of the gun, don't forget to credit me for the original design of the 2 parts). Also, if anyone does make the gun, please post an instructable for it. I would love to see the gun that I almost got to make. So please tell me where to go to get the instructable I you decide to post it. Also, the gun doesn't have to shoot anything. Thanks to everyone that contributes.

Topic by Knexfan    |  last reply


Fridge conversion anyone?

When I see my local scrap dealer I can't overlook the amount of well looked after chest freezers and fridges.I already found out that most either have a failed thermostat or failed heating element for the evaporation of the water during auto defrost cycles.So I started to think about converting a nice and small chest freezer for 12V use.A first check for available 12V compressors showed that they cost an arm and a leg.DIY with a 12 air compressor is out of the question for safety reasons and the fact that these toys are not ment to handle these conditions.My next stop was Youtube and I found some teardown and scrapping of fridge compressors.These things are actually so dead simple in design that without the enclosure we would need ear protection all day long.But durablitly is often really simple, sadly this mean anything to use a frequency generator or similar is not only inefficient but will fail on a condesator motor.However, these motors are quite bulky...In therory it should be possible remove all stator and mains voltage bits to make room around the rotor.And from that we really only need the axle and bearing mounts.Am I thinking too simple?What would stop someone from using a suitable sized brushless DC motor with couplings to the cut orginal axle?Modern, small compressors often use less than 200W, so how hard can it be?Disclaimer:I am aware of the legal side of things and such mods are nothing a tradesman would sign off for.But I do wonder and like to tinker to prove a point or theory ;)

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Project TTD--XM8

Alright well I wanted to keep this relatively low but I keep pushing back the project so I thought I'd let you guys know that trauts and I are working on an XM8 with a lot of special treats. I'm kind of stuck in California without my knex (and a small tub and a half here that will do me no good. I did teach my little cousin about knex guns and showed him the Mini-er TDS though >_<) so I'll have to wait until Friday to give you anything. I also have to finish my official assault pistol. So far the XM8 is just a bunch of ideas and nothing is built yet. I'm actually not sure as trauts might have made part of it but I haven't heard from him for awhile so I doubt it. Well for my assault pistol I was planning on making my war weapon now that others have. Thank god I think we may have found the new side arm and new new sniper fad...although now we're going to have a lot of spiff and bbkwg copies. It will be an open mag blue rod fed gun. I gave it a little twist for originality--I angled the magazine. This way the ammo is put farther up for more power but now the mag acts as a hand guard and doesn't stick out. Honestly it does jam like every 5 shots or so on average. I have yet to perfect it as I only started the night before I was leaving for CA. I should be making different versions of it like a larger one with a stock and yellows for ammo and then a smaller one maybe with a slide or something for whites. Anyways for the main project trauts and I are making an XM8 with a couple different features. Some things we're hoping to accomplish. *Similar charging handle- You'll be able to cock the weapon by pulling back a lever on top under the carrying handle. *Removable mag- Once again another one of my favorite accomplishments. *Interchangeable parts- The barrel/carrying handle and the back will be made to come off easily or at least without major mods to switch between the normal assault rifle and the compact version. *Hopefully we'll come up with an adjustable stock. *A grenade launcher for D splodies- Yup we're hoping to make a mini slingshot device in the form of a grenade launcher to attach under the XM8. Finally I have one last special feature pack that deserves more than a couple asterisks. We were hoping to save this as a surprise when we posted it but I might as well tell you. The gun will be part of a kit. It will be a war gun after all. The kit will include a belt/vest/ something to carry on you that will hold side arm, maybe an assault pistol, a couple of grenades most likely D Splodies so you can refill your grenade launcher, extra magazines, and finally a spot for your XM8. We'll try to hurry and post pictures with progress reports. I can't promise that we'll include every single one of these features but we are sure hoping to. So does this sound like a good Christmas gift?

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


TheDunkis's M4 Carbine

Ok well I really wanted to make my own to show my friends and even my dad for self satisfaction but I decided seeing that we don't have an M4 that both looks good and works great that I'd show you guys too. Uh let's see I'll just make my pros and cons list for a basic run down of my gun then I'll explain in better detail below that. Pros -30 white rod rounds med-cap magazine may become detacheable with simple mods (it's set up to be I just fixed in there for more support) -Cocking handle set up on firing pin to reset the pin then slide back automatically so pin is not in your way -4 sided rail system can have many features attached to it -true trigger Cons -Stock is only decently strong as I'm working on making it adjustable -Trigger guard area may be small for bigger hands but easily modable (it's a little tight for me and I have very small hands :( ) -Back sight need's to be secured in it's position while front sight may spin out of place. I'm working on this -Hard to muzzle load anything other that a grey rod and this still requires a tad bit of work -Near mid magazine it might jam if you fill it with ammo to that point -Uh I can't remember anything else but I'll be sure to list any more that I find. OK for details It uses another curved magazine (yes I like curved magazines) although it only uses joints and no bendies. 30 rounds like I said although if you fill it up to a certain point you may potentially jam it unless you watch carefully. It has the potential to become detacheable on how I made it but for now I just added a couple pieces to make sure it wont just fall out or wabble. It uses a basic but strong firing pin with a cocking handle system that is rigged to pull back the firing pin but then slide back into position so that you may rest your cheek to aim without the firing pin in your way. It uses a basic true trigger mechanism that I don't know who invented I just remember seeing it somewhere then I modified it to work in my gun. It uses a pretty simple idea for making a 4 sided rail system. I swear I did not take this idea from any other guns although I've seen one just recently that uses a similar system. For the sights I made a small peep hole for the back and then I just use one of those orange "handle" connectors or whatever you want to call them for the front blade. I'm trying to make the stock adjustable but for now I just have it fixed. Hopefully I get a picture up soon. Hmm either the spell check isn't working or I typed a perfect paragraph! By the way I really want to make another video soon so I might use this gun for a video. I'll most likely only get videos of guns with either a lot of features or ones with a new mechanism.

Topic by TheDunkis    |  last reply


Double barrel break action shotgun in 1-3 days

I have been building on this thing for the past 3 days, 1 to 3 hours a day. It's a massive, yellow rod thick, double barrel, super strurdy, pin guided (!) break action shotgun. I will give credit to Seleziona, because I took his Ghost 3.0 stock and trigger + handle mech and modded it slightly to fit my gun. (Don't worry I asked him in a PM) Don't get me wrong, but I just didn't felt like making a stock and trigger (mech) myself because I tried but failed 3 times because I'm not very good at making stocks and triggers out of nothing. Maybe a lack of experience, you guys tell me. More details and (a) pic(s) will come tomorrow. Now, on the other hand: I was scrolling trough the forum this evening, and I saw Kinetic's topic about innovation. and I'm 'afraid' that this shotgun will not be 'mind-blowing' to you professional builders and innovators like Dunkis, Kinetic, DJ, etc. I expect that you pro's will think: Bah, meh, just another generic gun, not innovative. And honestly, I don't want the pro's to think that. I hope that you professionals and innovation-addicts realize that some not-professionals are doing their best at innovation, but sometimes can't help that their design is too generic. So I hope this will not be too generic and 'not-innovative' and you pro's like it so we can keep the community alive and maintain all the other things that were discussed in the forum topic the last few weeks/months. I always try to be as innovative as possible, but if I want to post something that I made and if I'm proud of it, even when it's not innovative, is it ok if I post it? In my opinion, I have the right to post it. The point is: I did my best, I'm always doing my best at innovation and building and I hope you guys will like it. (Don't mind my spelling and grammar please, English is not my home-language) Regards, H.

Topic by H1T4TCH1  


(failed) Jackal v3 -UPDATED-

Ok guys, the project has officially been declared a flop. Too many issues with the shells. Sorry guys.UPDATEI have fixed the bottom rail on the gun, it doesnt bend anymore, and I have also added some extra supports to the barrel. I also modded the handle for more comfort (I moved a blue rod on it). The gun fires around 50-60 feet with 2 rubberbands.Ok, so this is the shell ejecting gun I was talking about. It has a sorta-new barrel (it ejects shells in a pistol barrel, rather than a tan lock), but yeah it has tons of resemblance to the Jackal v2. This time, the magazine is fixed. Sorry folks, I tried to make a removable version, but the result was a structurally unstable knex gun. But at least its new (may not look like it, but you cant judge a book from its cover)I may or may not post, I still have to run more tests on it. I cant find another rubberband so Im screwed for range tests at the moment. It does perform decently with one rubberband, with ranges between 15-20 feet. As for shell ejection, If you band the pusher right, it should eject shells from the top perfectly.One major con that the gun has right off the bat is the fact that it needs 2 broken orange connectors. The reason for this is because using the purple connectors made the ammo fall out of the barrel, and using non-modified orange connectors interfered with the shell ejection.Now I intended to add a slide to the gun, but the slide I built was structurally weak and didnt work at all. Oh well.The part that users will have to learn the most is the loading and firing part. If you are loading the gun for the first time, you must pull the firing pin back first, then put all shells in the gun. Then, fire as normal. Now, when you shoot your last round, do not eject the shell. Instead, take the pusher out, then add more shells to the gun. Then fire as normal.If you are wondering what makes the shells, its just 3 gray spacers wrapped in tape. Credit goes to the dunkis for that.

Topic by DJ Radio    |  last reply