I have an older snapper like this and need to know if anybody has an idea how to hook headlights to it? thanks in advance.
Question by kdf.inc1969 | last reply
Hey all! I drive a 1984 BMW 318i (that's the E30) with the standard H1 bulbs for the low and high beams (4 x H1 in total). I want better visibility at night and have been looking at options. Can anyone help with the following: 1. do i have to use high wattage bulbs to see a significant difference or would "upto 90% more light" 55W osram bulbs help? I would hate to spend the money on the 55W osrams only to end up with 5 extra lumens. 2. am i correct in saying that ALL xenon bulbs require the whole ballast and starter setup like fluorescents? are there some that don't? 3. Is there anyone who has used a high wattage bulb? what are your experiences? is the shorter life worth it? where on the continuum of wattage VS lifespan would you recommend? Right now I'm leaning towards the high wattage option, something like 80-100W. MY local hardware doesn't stock these and I doubt my local auto-electrical supplier would either. I'm thinking I may have to do some digging, maybe 4x4 accessory stores would have them since they are technically only meant for offroad use. K thanks, your help is much appreciated, I'll try to post an 'ible of old VS new and the installation procedure once I decide on the bulbs.
Topic by Baronrc | last reply
How to restore your dull plastic headlamps to like new, for about $4.00 (if your lamps are dirty on the inside, that is a whole other instructable): Step 1 - Wash the headlamps with common dish soap and allow to dry thoroughly, this will remove the dirt and oils from the lamp. Step 2 - Using regular rubbing compound or silver polish (I used Silvo brand silver polish (about $4.00 a can here in Canada), it may work with copper polish as well) Apply a small amount of compound or polish using a soft cotton cloth (an old t-shirt or sheet cut into manageable size) gently rub the lamp in a circular motion (the amount of pressure is determined by the severity of the dullness, you may need to repeat the procedure more than once) allow the polish or rubbing compound to dry to a haze, usually by the time your done both lamps the first one will be ready to perform the next step. Step 3 - Using a clean dry cotton cloth buff the lens to remove all of the haze, if the lamp still looks dull repeat step 2. Step 4 - Once you are satisfied that the lenses are as polished as they will get, wax both lamps with a high quality auto wax, (a wax containing carnuba is the best) Mother's or Maguires works great. The wax will prevent bugs, dust and dirt from sticking to the lamp and it will retain it's clarity for a long time, if the lamp starts to look dull simply apply a new coat of wax. Step 5 - Stand back and admire your newly restored headlamps - you will be amazed at how much further you can see at night. *The attached photo is of my headlamp on my 1998 Suzuki Esteem - The before picture is from another 1998 Suzuki Esteem, my lamps were almost as bad as the one pictured here.
Topic by DELETED_Silent Ninja Bunny | last reply
Wanted to make my own battery powered headlight for my dirtbike, I want to keep it in the 15x4 dimension. I would like to make it as bright as humanly possible in that dimension. Cost isnt that big of a deal just dont want to drop $300 on a pre fabbed one if I can make one for much less. A list would be nice, primarily LED's to use, battery, heat sink issues. Again I would like to build one that is really bright right in front and carries for a good distance. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
Topic by Simhinz | last reply
I want to coat the inside of my headlight housings with a, heat resistant, blue liquid to mimic cid headlights. It would save me the price of expensive replacement lamps, but has to be transparent tint.
Question by Hubiewan | last reply
I have some 4.5 volt led bulbs. But I don't know how to make led headlights for bike.If U give some easy steps to make headlight, I will be great full to you.
Question by subhakumar | last reply
Hey everyone, I bought my 2001 warrior this summer (yes thats where 2001warrior came from) anyways it has been giving me some issues with the headlights. The headlights work great in lowbeam but when I put them in highbeam my left headlight goes out! does anyone have any suggestions to what I should do?
Topic by 2001warrior | last reply
Furthermore if they do make either of these, are they legal?
Question by cdubnbird | last reply
I'm in the midst of building a new high-power led headlight for my bicycle (i.e. Ive ordered a new battery and a bunch of hardware, led's and a driver). My question for the community is whether or not an arduino unit could be used to control functions or modes of the light. I have built alot of lights and know a decent amount about electronics but I have zero experience with arduino and programing. I am using this buck driver (http://www.ledsupply.com/0a009-d-v-1400.php) with a triple cree xp-g led and a 14.4v lithium battery. Ideally I would like a single button to cycle through 5 modes: off, low, high, F-U idiot driver, and strobe. If anyone knows what kind of stuff I would need to buy(i.e. controller, switch,etc...), if the stuff would interface with this driver, and how I would go about programming the thing I would much appreciate it. Thank you, Patrick
Question by phish814 | last reply
I want to build a led light array for my 4x4 im thinking somewhere around the 10w mark not sure weather i should get the 12v ones or the 4v. fabrication and cooling i can manage my question is about the drivers.. can i use a buck-boost dc-dc converter as the driver? i understand they will even out the voltage thats caused by engine cranks and charging.. roughly 10-15v change. i plan yo use about 20 leds, yes i want it to be super bright and i realise that it will get hot. but i dont want to be spending to much per led on drivers, factoring in that i need lens's for each aswell. so i was hoping to run a few leds on one driver/buck the save some coin. a company called xmitter make something similar but they charge something stupid for them cheers.
Question by grimgroper | last reply
With LED technology getting cheaper and better almost weekly now it seems to make sense to use them in your old car.People who did it and post about it make the decisions even easier.I mean who wouldn't want to switch from pale yellow candle light to these bright white litghts showing you all in great detail?Problem is the firstly the legal side of things.Many countries now allow the use of LED replacements for many older cars - within limits.Where and if allowed it means you need to use LED systems that a compliant with your local road authorities and regulations.In a lot of countries though it is still not legal to replace incandescent head lights with LED ones.Why is this?If you read this after changing over already you will have noticed a destinct difference between the two types of "globes".The filament is very compact and in a H4 lamp the reflector is quite small and perfectly positioned as well.In comparison to (mostly the non-legal) LED replacements the light emitting surface is flat and usually a lot bigger than the filament.This means the light output and pattern changes as the reflector of your lamp is not designed to work with LED's and their bigger area of light surface.Being flat also means the LED can not really produce the same amount of light in LUX to the sides as compared to directly above.Most LED lamps compensate this with an added reflector in the front area.So we have two major problems:Not really enough light going sideways while too much light goes up and down in the LED system.Too much stray light due to the bigger surface are that puts out the light.Combined they result in light going into areas where it should not go, or not go at this level of brightness.The often used statement that now even highway signs are easy to read at night on low beam clearly highlights this problem.There is a good reason your head lamps should not shine upwards ;)What can be done to allow for the use of LED lamps in old cars?If not too old than your car already has H1/H7 lamps and indiviual for fog, low- and high- beam.For those it is now quite easy to get road legal LED replacements.Not so much though for the really old H4 systems with high- and low- beam in one lamp.Don't be fooled by your local auto shop though!Just because they might sell a lot of HID and LED lmaps does not mean what is on display for sale is actually road legal.If it does not state the corresponding certifications for your country/state than you can rest assured a cop on a bad day will have field day (or night) with you sooner or later.As said, in many countries there are now tested and legal option available.Their main difference to the cheap and uncertified ones is not their higher price alone.In comparison their more powerful LED's result in much smaller COBS -the LED strip giving the light.Reducing glare and providing a much closer match to the incanscent lamps.Why is it so hard to find a common ground and provide proper LED replacement systems?You might as well ask why you can buy a $20 amplifier or a $5.000 amplifier....When the first cars came out with LED lamps China saw the potential and provided all sorts of headlight lamps with LED's in them.Quickly they not only made it to the international markets but also gained interest for basically everyone wanting more light.Regulations were non existent back then...Even today it is next to impossible to actually provide proper numbers in terms of lumen, LUX or general brightness.What a LED provides can be quite different from what leaves the head lights.Old standards only refer to Watt, so it is no problem to find a cheap LED system that provides what a 100W lamp would get you at less than 30W on the input side...And the light color is not really specified at all in most countires.France required a yellowish light back in the day.A blue tint in your head lights was no problem with Xenon lights, so LED systems now go as high 7000 Kelvin, or close to a blueish light and as low as 3000 Kelvin or what is coming from incandescent lights.You see, finding a common ground is already hard just with the light output and color alone.There is only one real test that even today defines whether or not a head light needs adjustment or in case of LED replacements makes them illegal.The good old white wall with the markers, lines and distance mark on the floor.If you compare a properly adjusted head light on these test walls you get a very destinct pattern of light to see.Clear cut off's, brightly illuminated areas within the fields and lines and less bright areas in the outer regions - again still defined by the marks on the wall.Swapping to various types of LED replacements should provide the same patterns and brightness levels.In reality though almost all of them will only give you a very bright and undefined big area on the wall.No more dark areas with clear cut off to the bright middle section, even the formerly shadowish side areas are now well lit up.Great for you behind the wheel, bad for everyone coming the other direction, especially when wet and raining.Some people in the colder parts of the world will now what I mean when I say that some LED system will only give you good visibility when it snows if you turn them off ;)How to check for yourself if your new LED lights are any good for other people on the road?I assume you did the right thing and had your headlights checked and if required adjusted before actually putting LED lights in!Nothing is worse than trying to get more light if said lights are adjusted to point everywhere except the road.With your old light still in park in front on a straight wall on level ground, like your garage or any other wall you find.Park at a nice distance to get a clean pattern on the wall that is not too big.5 to 10 meters away should do fine.Use some painters tape or similar to mark out your desgined light pattern on the wall.Don't be too fancy, just some tape to indicate where bright light turn into way less on the wall and a few strips to indicate the cut off lines where patterns of brightness change on the wall.Leave the car where it is and put your new LED lights in.Check for yourself by how much the areas differ now.Anything above your marked cut off lines means you are blinding other drivers ahead of you.Anything way brighter than before on the sides could mean you also blind oncoming traffic on the other side of the road or freeway.A pale and low light level in these areas is not too bad and can be acceptable.Anything that clearly illuminates those formerly dark areas however should not be used on the roads.Another check is to try at what distance your old low- and high- beam start to become a bit too birght too directly look in to when you stand in front of your car during a really dark night.Look somwhere drak and move closer until you reach the discomfort zone.With your LED lights you should be able to get as close as before ...
Topic by Downunder35m
Question by arkybid | last reply
Hello, i have a Moped that has no battery or anything, the only electricity comes from the magneto and its 6V AC, and my headlight is weak, so i cant see anything, i dont know much about electronics, i would only need about 4-6 LED-s. any help?
Question by dsirotic | last reply
I need a cheap easy way. I saw someone use a kit from walmart for around $20- but that seems outrageous. Thanks
Question by couponkelley | last reply
Wanted circuit diagram to increase brightness bike headlight, details 12v dynamo, 135cc?
Question by dom83 | last reply
Any suggestions to make an over the windshield light bar for an 88 jeep wrangler? Construction of the bar, wiring of the lights and all related answers are welcome and appreciated.
Question by xboxteen01 | last reply
Hello, everyone I have this Audi A4 Lamp with LED DRL, I want to power the LED up at home as decoration.Opened the headlamp housing, and trace the wire, I found the led strip has 4 wires, and I don't know which is (+) which is (-), I did some internet search of 4 pin led strip, and most of the info was RGB led. I don't believe this Audi LED DRL has RGB. tried (+ + - -) (+ - - +) (- + + -) with no luck. any advice to power the LED up at home? Thank you.
Question by VanWeeD | last reply
This chap has home-built a Jansen-style walker. It's a well-made video as well.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
I was looking to replace the headlights on my car to LED ones, but I'm kinda conscious about the legal requirements I contacted the Licensing and Vehicle centre/department/whatever to ask about the max colour temperature, but the best they gave me was what was in the pic below. Does anyone know how to convert that or something into colour temperature? I know they sell 5000K lamps at a nearby automotive shop, but they also sell a few more... questionable accessories. I really don't want to have to drag my car in and have to pay several hundreds over just a few headlights; might as well just take the ticket if I ever got one. Other than that, they should have the same brightness, throw, etc. Thanks
Question by .Unknown. | last reply
12v input from car battery to power this LED something swimilar to these 1 2 3 but cheap and simple cos i dont wanna use SMD some info on LED and board
Question by turbiny | last reply
I posted an instructable about 2.5 years ago and other than the 2 people I sent the link to - no views and I still cannot find it on the site. https://www.instructables.com/id/Bike-LightsUSB-Charger/ I am planning to do a few more (IR beacon-tracking camera, 433 MHz Doppler RDF with PIC, Lights and Sound Greeting Card, and a few more that I have built and wanted to share. However, I actually want people (and myself at the bare minimum) to be able to find them. Maybe I chose poor keywords or an awkward title? I would like to get some advice on this before I take the time to make a few more.
Question by src1138 | last reply
Hello everyone, first sorry if I make some erreur in my writing post, I m a French people, so I would like know if it's possible to make a project arduino based with a accelerometer to use like an auto leveling adjustment for the road beam, actually on my car I was a standard halogen headlight with dc motor and a wire to control I change the headlight by a full xenon and now for the gestion of the leveling I need a third part to work in a autonome mode, I had searched for a while a module to control the stepper motor based on the car inclination and I had found nothing who'll be use with an accelerometer to adapt to car acceleration or deceleration, I guess I need an accelerometer, and a stepper motor controler 12v I would like know how hardest is to setting up? Thank you
Topic by gagaetan10
... A.C. regulator I believe? Thanks!
Question by alpe_97 | last reply
Hi guys, New here but not to projects and tinkering in general. Mostly im a mechanical type guy and not to electrically inclined. I have a 1970 Honda CT70H Trail bike, I would like to replace the current headlight with a single or multipul LED set, also id like to split it and run a USB charger when the headlight is not runnning. My plan to acomplish this (my very simple in a perfect world plan) is to take the LED set from a small cheap flashlight that uses 4 batteries in order to get the proper voltage, and use the same leads the go to the headlight. Currently the Honda has a dimmer switch which I was planning on using for my switch between light and usb power. For the usb I was going to use a car cig-lighter type charger and but i know a car is a 12 volt system however i assume because usb chargers use 5volts that a car charger has a 5volt regulator in place? Included is a ct70 wiring diagram link, help would be great http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/dratv_2197_243290703 Thanks all
Topic by KyleN20 | last reply
Hi guys, im new to electronics and stuff, but i work at a movie theater, and cleaning in the dark isnt fun...lol so, after seeing that awesome ultrabright headlight instructable, i was wondering if the "Ultimate Biker's Night Headlight" could be modified into a smaller, handheld version? Thanks in advance.. -robi
Topic by robi7412 | last reply
I have a snowmobile engine in a golf cart, and want to charge the golf cart battery. the snowmobile engine has a stator already for powering the headlight. But the headlight ran on 12v ac. so i need to install a rectifier. Im guessing im going to be working with 20A or so, and it will be charging a battery about the size of your average lawnmower battery. What rectifier should i get that can handle the amperage it would take too charge the battery? The engine already has a regulator, so i will just run the rectifier from the headlight wiring harness because it is getting the regulated 12v.
Question by robotman36 | last reply
Hi, I'm from India and I own a bajaj pulsar 220 S that has a 35w 12v headlight and I recently bought an aftermarket enduro headlight to fix on it, but the problem is that the headlight I bought has two MR16 bulbls and each bulb has two wires coming from it both white in color, So I'm totally confused with the wiring thing, Should I solder one white wire with a red one from the motorcycles wiring socket and the other white with the black one of the ground socket? I'd appreciate if you could clear that up for me. P.S - I'm a complete noob when it comes to electricals.
Topic by tushar2308 | last reply
i have 6volts dc and 3 watts to play with. i cant figure out the wiring for it all, any help would be appreciated. i want to make all of the lights out of LED's, the tail/brake light needs to be dual intensity, and of course the turn signale need to blink, it would be nice if they could be dual intensity as well, but not nececary. thanks again
Question by chopperdr | last reply
Cool new tail lights cant install them
Question by yo man | last reply
My headlights have stopped working - main beam is OK, sidelights are OK, normal dipped beam is out. Since both sides went at once, I'm assuming its a fuse. However, there are 24 fuses in the fuse box, none labelled with what they serve, and the Haynes manual simply gives them numbers. I'm being lazy - to save me going through them one by one, does anybody know which fuse is the one I need to change? (Rover Mini Mayfair, 1275cc, 1995)
Question by Kiteman | last reply
Hello Friends, I am looking for someone who is willing to vacuum form (2) antique headlight buckets for a lighting project. I have the bezel I need "copied" and would like it done in 1/4" material. The headlight bezel is approximately 12" tall and 8" wide and is kinda egg shaped. I cannot seem to locate a local business willing to do this, so I am reaching out to the community to do this. I am in Durham, NC. Thank anyone offering their service, Steve Rogers
Topic by Creative Asylum
I have installed a motorcycle headlight to my beach cruiser..and was thinking of getting blinkers for it too..im just stuck on battery..
Question by MaurizioF1 | last reply
Hi, I'm new here; hoping someone can help me with a problem I have &, over time, maybe I can help others. I've attached a diagram for the headlight circuit on a car I built. The headlights work, but I've not been successful adding an LED to indicate whether they are in low beam or high beam and need to get that working. I have an RGB, common cathode LED and have wired it as shown in the picture. It may be obvious to some of you with more electrical experience than me, but but instead of off; green for low beam; blue for high beam -- I'm getting off; green when I turn the headlights on; both green & blue when I flip to high beams; stays both green & blue when I flip back to low beams; goes off if I turn the headlights off. The one thing I found while trying to trouble shoot that I wasn't expecting is that the wires connected to the 87 pins on relays 2 & 3 show +12V. That makes sense given the lights simply have a coil between the + & - sides but I wasn't expecting that -- not sure if I'm backfeeding 12V to ground [which might explain a couple of gremlins I've been chasing in other parts of my wiring system]. So, net, I have two questions: 1. Is there anything wrong with the headlight circuit the way it is set up in the diagram? 2. Why wouldn't the LED be lighting as expected vs. what I'm getting per above? Note - I didn't draw in the resistors required for the LEDs to work with 12V power, but I do have them on the LED. Both the blue & green sides do light properly when I connect them directly to the battery to test. I appreciate any help you can offer! Thanks in advance.
Question by CustomV8MGB | last reply
Could somebody please answer me that using an array of 135pcs of 5mm LEDs that produce 12000mcd each be better than using 3pcs of Cree MC-E for a motorcycle headlight. will the 5mm LEDs produce more light (lumens) than the MC-Es. If yes then will the distance of the beam of light produced by the 5mm LEDs be the same as the distance of the beam produced by the Cree MC-E? By the distance of the beam I mean how much far can the beam produced by an array of LED light up the road. Please answer somebody answer me quickly I need urgent help. I will be very greatful to youll
Question by Jayvis Vineet Gonsalves | last reply
My car headlight is getting dimmer and dimmer because the reflector in the headlamp had worn out, is there any low cost way that i can refurbish the headlamp to make it light brighter without to replace it with a new headlamp unit.
Question by hamz622 | last reply
Yoda Cake Amphibious Couchbike Bacon Soap DIY Pixar Baby Lamp Zipper Earbuds Liquid-Cooled Car Seat Build a Marimba Homemade Rowing Shell Camera Ring Light Panning Security Cam Basic Linear Perspective Hand Crank Flashlight $2 Running Shoes Bright Bike Headlight Paper Towel Roll Flower
Topic by randofo
What resistor should I add on to the current setup? Two sets of white LED (each removed from flashlight) run in parallel to the 3-AA battery source. The neg or current connection is the spring (or resistor) that came with the flashligt. I would like to use a 12 volt rechargable lead acid battery.?
Question by davis1019 | last reply
I'm modding an Optimus Prime voice changer helmet for halloween. I'd like to have eyes that are lit up, but I still need to see through them. Any ideas how I could accomplish this? My idea is something like a car headlight. Have the LED off to the side, and have a reflective background (tinfoil?) so it lights up bright. Then have an eye hole in the middle of the background to see through. Thoughts?
Topic by matthewordie | last reply
Ok, biker boys (and girls), I need help. After sitting all winter, I fired up my '73 Shovelhead. I had a battery charger attached (charging 12v @ 6 amps). The bike fired up on the fourth or fifth kick (YAY!!!), but then promptly fried the headlight, the taillight, and caught the charger on fire (in the carport). What do you think is wrong? Defective regulator? Poor regulator ground? I want to ride this weekend, so help me ASAP!!!!?
Question by skunkbait | last reply
I was using permanent marker to mark the fold lines for my front panel on my cnc machine. It comes off easily with methylated spirits on an earbud, but not after heat has been applied during the folding process. I've tried acetone, 2K thinners, spirits, rubbing alcohol and even PlastiX (used for renewing the yellowing on old headlight lenses) with no success. The irking factor is high and needless to say black duct tape on the back just wont do it for me. Any other ideas?
Question by petercd | last reply
I will be charging a 12v 14.5AH motorcycle battery. The reason is that my charging system died and parts are more than 2 weeks out. I live in a state where a headlight is a requirement any time of the day and it really takes a toll on my usable range. So my short-term solution is to attach a temporary solar panel on it and leave the bike in the sun. I would plug it in and attach it when I was not riding so mounting it is not a problem. The panel needs to fit into a backpack and be fairly light (under 10 lbs).
Question by Junk_Wizard | last reply
Ok, I recently purchased a Go-Ped for practically nothing, and I really, really, really want to fix it up. I want to mount a couple of LED powered bicycle headlights on the front, and a tail light on the back. However, I want to be able to turn them all on and off via a single switch, mounted to the handlebars.I know very little about wiring, but I do know that most bicycle lights require physical pressure to power them on or off. Maybe there's something that can go between the batteries and bulbs?Any input you can provide would be fantastic!-Ryan
Topic by ryry214 | last reply
Hello. I have a duemilanove arduino thay i bought a couple years ago to leatn but never actually learned anything. I need it now for a little project, Basically i have an automotive height sensor(goes under the chassis for headlight adjustment) and i would need a code to tell the arduino to turn on 2 LEDs,each at a different set height. It should be pretty simple, could someone help me with the code? I'd put the exact values in after I know them. Also, if its possible for qn arduino nano? (So its smaller) thanks
Question by dsirotic
I recently saw an electric 3 wheel motor scooter that looked like a cross between a Roman chariot and a Segway. The driver could only stand while riding and moved at about 10 mph. The chassis looked like it came from one of those senior citizen scooters, the tires looked like boys' 15 inch street bicycle wheels. It had a headlight and taillights along with a trailer hitch. My question is does anyone have the plans or at the very least pictures of something similar?
Question by javajunkie1976 | last reply
I found a website that boasts a safety vest with 16 LED's powered by 2 AA batteries (see link at bottom). This confused me because I have a setup of 16 LED's in "series", but my setup requires 18v to operate. Is it the rating of my LED's? What "size" LED's do I need to get to minimize the voltage requirements?If you're curious, I set the LED's up for my daughters Power Wheels for headlights and tail lights.http://www.drivingcomfort.com/index.cfm/fa/p/pid/4235/sc/32193
Question | last reply