Ok, so I need a small heating element to reach between 200-365 F that can be powered by small batteries. Got any ideas?
Question by Salty4 7 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I have two electric heating elements I would like to sell. they are good enough for melting metal and fireing pottery, they will also come with the control eletronics too. you can make gingerys "little Bertha" if you want. I pulled them out of a huge eletric furnes for heating a building, they are good but you would need to figure out the controls. they are quite long. there are two coils per stack, so you would get 4 coils. the first picture is with a 12 ruler to show the length ( it reads 10.5 inches)all I want is $30 and $25 for shipping..... the cost is hard to beat!just send me a comment if you want them!
Topic by Danielro10 10 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I have a container (8cm by 8cm by cm) to store powdery food. But the food gets clumped together to the container walls. As such, I am thinking of coming up with a mini heating device to keep the container warm to prevent the clumping of the powder food. Am quite noob to this and would like to hear suggestions and ideas to come up with a simple diy device.
Topic by kurtselva 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I am trying to construct a heating element, preferably out of nichrome, for heating a small box (24 * 40 * 13 cc). The box is covered on all sides, so the heat dissipation from the box will be very low, as per estimate. I think a 12V supply would suffice for the nichrome wire. The only thing is, I need to maintain the box at an ambient temperature of about 38 degrees. Any thoughts on how I could go about constructing the heating element?
Question by Psyclops 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi Folks, Please does anybody know anything about: Low consumption heating element for cloth iron? I have been informed tha there is a special heating element which one consumes less than 20% of a commom cloth iron. thanks Edson
Topic by elattavares 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I have a few small projects in mind that have come to a standstill because I lack one piece. What I would like to get my hands on are small heating elements capable of temps between 80-400 degrees F that are as accurate as possible, preferably within two degrees. I have tried researching this online, but after browsing for an hour I was unable to come up with anything that would suit my needs. I have considered buying a digital heat gun, but I can't find reliable info on how accurate they are and what range they have. I don't want anyone to think I am trying to build bombs or anything like that so here are two of the applications I had in mind. The first is my truck. From what I understand those 'super chips' people buy to override the computer and add power typically change the air/fuel ratio. That can be done by manipulating the perceived temperature of the air entering the intake. My idea is to create a small housing around the airbox thermostat and digitally manipulate the termp in order to manipulate the A/F ratio. My second idea is...well...best not discussed openly, but I assure you it has nothing to do with the creation of weapons of any kind. Any thoughts?
Topic by TsarNicholas 9 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Question by fishing4life13 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago
Question by poppieann 10 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I need to find a way to shape a rolled finishing edge with a 14"wide top plastic bottle. I actually thinking about a stainless steel cone that I could heat up to reshaple the edge ....any idea how I could find...make/ do such a thing??
Question by terriradke 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I have some 28AWG Kanthal wire and lets say i just wanted to make a heating element. I will connect the wire to a 5.0 V dc power adapter. Is there anything i have to put in series with the wire just to make sure everything works okay, or can i just have it connected to the power supply with nothing in series.
Question by joselalala 5 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Im for some sort of heating source to boil water in a lightbulb. I initially was thing an immersion heater but thy are too large. which has lead me to thinking along the lines of building an external coil to do so. Would this feasibly work? And if so how would i go about doing so? Any input would be a great help or any other ideas on how to go about heating are welcome as well
Question by grags 7 years ago
I need to make an ajustable heater element. Here are the outlines/ Specs for this. Power 120v from wall Heat range needs to be between 70F to about 300F Heater will be attached to a 1in dia pipe and will be melting plastic. I have no clue how to go about doing this. I need some help with what components I need to buy, how to hook them up and what type of wire is the best for the element itself.
Question by TWMCNANEY 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hello everyone, another question! I am working on an Arduino Uno powered thermostat/ liquid heater. I would like to know if anyone knows how to make a 5v fully submersible heating element or the likes. I am connecting it to a relay that will switch on and heat the liquid inside a container when the temp drops below 30 degrees C. Any Ideas?
Question by EdmondD3 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
So heres my problem ( wishing again somebody will come whit a solution )Im tryying to ignite a little cotton tissu sqaure , which have lighter fuel on it, whit a NiChrome wire....All what i got its some smoke but no flames .... (the smoke stops when i turn off the NiChrome wire)So do someone have a idea to light up a cotton tissu pad (whit lighter fuel on it) whitout using the flink tingythx MaximePS 1 : this is what i wanna do (ecxept not in a wallet)http://youtube.com/watch?v=2njiK1dsWQM
Topic by koax 11 years ago | last reply 11 years ago
I’m seeking advice on building a battery powered heating element, goal being 1300 degrees Fahrenheit. I have a 4.8v 4200mah battery and Kanthal A-1 20, 26, 30 gauge wire, but am not limited to this material. The element will be a circle with a diameter of about an inch, similar design to a range coil. Hoping someone can help me, feel free to ask any further questions.
Topic by HumanLightningRod 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
HI, I want to make a 12VDC 2Amp water heater which can heat 2 3 liters of water easily.Actually i havent be able to find any perfect element for that once i torn my old soldering iron and got an element from that and i cut it into half and tried it but didnt get the result.Can anybody help me to make a perfect one.I m not got in electronics and stuff so kindly suggest me which stuff will be use to protect my wire from overheating or short circuts.Waiting for answers!] Regards, Muneeb
Question by muneebakhtar 1 year ago | last reply 1 year ago
Please don't laugh but I am building a small working oven for my daughter and need a heating element that can heat it from 70 to 220 degrees celsius via a thermostat. I've found this heating element http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/3762795/ or http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/ceramic-heating-elements/1988529/ and this thermostat http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7334726/ but am not sure these are suitable and would work together. The oven will measure about 15cm wide x 8cm hit x 10cm deep but I don't have to stick to this.Any help or advice would be amazing. You're laughing aren't you? :)
Topic by gooseisloose 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
If anybody has some general tips/calculation about wire thickness, length, material. Im not even sure which way to adjust. If I make an element that doesn't get hot then I either need to make the element wire thinner or shorter, right? I'm trying to make a 20-50 watt element. Variable would be nice. I have a multimeter. seem to be having trouble getting a steady reading on lengths of wire for some reason.
Question by avocadostains 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Im working on building a stirling engine which is powered by heat. The bottom cylinders will need to be heated to 4-600 C. A burner similar to an older spiral stove burner would work but I'm afraid it wouldn't be able to reach the required temperature range. The diameter of the burners surface needs to be at least 3 inches. Ive searched and searched but am unable to find much that looks like it will work. Could someone explain how to possibly make something with some sort of heating element? Any ideas?
Question by Bhall06 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I am trying to make a heater out of nichrome wire. i have got a heating element (100 W) made specifically for 9V . but when i connected it to the battery, after few seconds of heating the element my battery heated up and i had to remove the connections. what am i doing wrong P.S. the heating element is connected to a stainless steel glass for heating 250-300 ml water to about 100 degree celcius. Please help
Question by samshk 2 years ago | last reply 2 years ago
So my new major has me in a machine shop that is at my disposal. I have made a few shift knobs but with living in the Northeast it can get cold in the winter months. I want to heat the knobs, which means finding something that is... - Small enough to fit inside a roughly 1" dia cylinder, depth minimal. - Quickly heat the knob - But not over heat it - Run on a 12v standard supply - Minimal cost I have considered trying to find a "Heating Element" but am unable to find such in a size I need and within a price I want. Maybe a soldering Iron element? I tried "Peltier" but they all are over-sized and debate the conflicting effects of hot and cold. However if figured out I could flip it for summer. I debated running a resistor/other electronic component with just enough power to cause it to heat up, but am worried about it breaking. I wanted to do a high power light bulb, but don't see that working as well as I plan. So I am kinda at a loss...if you have a specific item you can link me to let me see it, or just let me know of an item I can use.
Topic by scubaru 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
I am hoping to take the fire out of blacksmithing by using the same technology that turns nichrome wire into a heating element. I don't want to make a nichrome heater. I am hoping to have removable leads that will allow me to attach to whatever piece of metal I am working with and heat it up directly. Anyone ever tried anything like this?
Question by LIBlacksmith 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi All, My thought was this, I live in New England and of course there is a lot of snow and ice in the winter. I am going to have an exterior stair that leads to the third floor of my house and keeping them snow and ice free in the winter will be a major PITA! I have looked at a lot of different heating products but none seem optimal. I was thinking, after remembering small heating elements, similar to the coil you could just put into a glass of water to heat it, why couldn't I just turn the steps into a low temp heating element powered from the house's electricity? Is this totally absurd or should it be possible? Any ides? TIA, Aaron
Question by offthedeepnd 5 years ago | last reply 6 months ago
I wish to attach a piece of heating element wire to the two ends of a cord& plug directly into wall. Wrapping the heating element in a pattern around a cane-stock; I will plug directly into the wall to burn the pattern into the cane. I'm not sure of size-limits for household 110 volt current. (I dont want the wire to burn up, or not get hot enough) Anyone have that info? Thanks for your time.
Question by smallludwig2 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Request for help: Does anyone know how to remove the heating element from a hair dryer to have it only blow cold/cool air? I've opened it up and there are a lot more wires than I expected. I have just enough electrical knowledge to be a little bit above dangerous, so I thought it would be best to ask for help. Thanks!
Topic by WaffleM 6 years ago | last reply 3 months ago
Hello, I am new to the world of tinkering but I would like to attempt something. I am trying to build a portable heating element that would only need to reach about 70-100 degrees and be attached to a piece of metal to allow the metal to absorb the heat. Now with this idea I am trying to make it 100% portable, thinking of utilizing 4 AA batteries and a switch so the element is not required to be on all the time. I thought about pulling an element out of a cordless curling iron or something and trying that but was not sure if it would reach the correct temp or be able to last about a month or so with moderate use. I am not very well versed in the circuitry world so the amps - volts thing is a little fuzzy for me so I apologize in advanced if I do not completely understand your responses. Thank you, Alex
Question by lilmudd 6 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
Hello, I have the hair dryer which have 2 switch one for the blower and other one for heating, when turn the blower ON the heating coil that connected to the rectifier terminal is work ON and the motor work in slow and high (not perfect working) . There is no short in out circuit . Sorry for mu english thanks
Topic by MahdiA19 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Recently i went to take pictures in the middle of the night at Subfreezing temperatures and the front of my lens formed ice. so i need to keep the lens warm, there are many solutions but the one i thought would be fun to use is the use of a heating element. I found resistance heating wire, i would like to make an object that could fit around my lens and keep it warm. to prevent overheating i will use a microcontroller with temperature sensors to cut of the supply of electricity at a certain temperature. i just want to keep the lens at more than 5 degrees centigrade. I think my 12v lead acid battery will be enough for this kind of project. My question is how to do it, how much heating wire should i use? how much heat will it make? what wire should i use? Will it work? Any other ideas are welcome.
Topic by markosloizou 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hi All, I have a thought on something that I'd love to build, but I'm having some trouble figuring out the best way to do it. I'm new to everything electricity, so please bare with me on my lack of knowledge on the subject. What I'm building is a coffee maker that you can take with you as you leave the house. I need to figure out how to create a way to heat up the coffee to roughly 60-80 degrees, then once done you can detach it and take unit with you. Now, here is the catch. I don't want to rely on the battery source to heat the water, ideally I'd be able to setup a removable plug that both charges the batteries and heats the element that gets the water up to 60 degrees while plugged in. Once the water is heated, I'd then like the ability to detach the cord, and you can take the coffee maker with you. The batteries at this point just need to keep the water warm/hot, not heat it from scratch. Also, I'd like to figure out how to have a timer on this with an LCD screen. That way, just like with any coffee maker, you can set the time before you go to sleep and have it ready by the time you go on your commute. Any help on how I should set this up, battery sizes, places that I can find parts I would need would be a gigantic help! I've been searching the internet for a few hours but cannot find anything. Thanks in advance.
Question by mgallo121 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
I have a few projects in mind that require the use of resistance wire for a heat source . Possibly stranded and coiled wire . One angle , I know the maximum power and need to know what size of wire could acheive a disired temperature . Then coming in with known element size and figuring out a power source capable of a desired heat range . I have been exposed to ohm's law in a industrial controls class , so I now know enough to be dangerous. Just not sure on how to apply it. Thanks
Question by Betheone 8 years ago | last reply 8 years ago
Hi Everyone, this is my first post on this site! I am seeking advice to help me construct a home-made melting point apparatus (M.P.A). A melting point apparatus allows it's operator to determine the melting point of a chemical sample by heating it in a controlled fashion and noting the temperature when the sample melts. I have most of the design made up in my head, but I'm not sure as to how I can obtain the proper heating element. The heating element I am seeking is an emulation of the M.P.A.s heating elements in my school's chemistry lab, which look like this: a metal block (about 3cm tall by 2cm deep by 3 cm wide) with vertical holes bored into the face with a pane of glass pressed against said holes so a glass capillary tube (containing the sample) can be slid into the bored hole and viewed through the glass pane as the sample is heated by the metal. Another hole is bored into the metal, adjacent to the sample hole, for a thermometer. So again, my question is do you have any suggestions as to where I could by a heating element like this? Or, any suggestions on how to build one? I have a jewelry shop at my disposal so I can probably bore any holes myself. Any suggestions will be appreciated, thanks!
Topic by Das Horse 7 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I've got this little glue gun. On the package it said: 10 watts, AC 120-240V. First of all how is it the same wattage at 120 and 240 volts? I wouldn't think it could be. Another question. I took it apart expecting to find a coil of nichrome like in a soldering iron. That is not what I found. Instead I found that the power cord was soldered to two inch long twisty tie wire looking, insulated wires. I dont know what type of wire that would be. It appeared to be brass or copper on the inside coated in what looked like steel though the wire was not magnetic. These two inch long sections of wire had two little paddle contacts on the end and between them was a little rectangular chunk of aluminum. THe contacts and the aluminum chank were wrapped in orange cellophone it looked like. then Sandwiching that were two more flattish rectangular pieces of aluminum. That whole deal was tightly clipped with a steel clip to the alumium housing/nozzle inside of which the glue melts. My question is-where is the resistor here? Measuring the resistance of the whole glue gun, cold, at the prongs of the plug, the resistance is around 1900 Ohms. I'm seeing some wires hooked to a chunk of aluminum. What am I missing thats creating 1900 Ohms of resistance? It must be that thin cellophane wrapper no? How this type of element works I do not understand. Help?
Question by avocadostains 4 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
A peltier is a element that gets very hot on one side, and very cold on the other side. Cold enough (with enough power) to make frost all over it. So. I got one, I want to make nice cold cold air. I read wiki, if you don't heat sink it, it will self destroy. If I heatsink the cold side, then a fan on the heat sink to blow the cold freeze air, will it be fine? Or must I cool the hot side too? Peltiers are cool :D
Topic by Killa-X 11 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
I'm making a 24"x24" vacuform machine. I have the base built but racking my brain for a cost effective heating source. Is it possible to take a replacement broiler element for an electric stove and just solder a split extension cord to each side? Or better yet get an adjustable thermostat cord like one that would come with an electric skillet and use that? Is this a safe way to do this? The unit that would hold this, would be steel and wood to help radiant heat down plus keep anything or anyone getting burned. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Topic by zatman 4 years ago | last reply 4 years ago
I am trying to make a simple little circuit to heating coils(salvaged from cigarette lighters from cars) i have it set up so one is negative and one is positive when they touch they heat up but i am unable to get it glowing red hot which for now is good i guess i need to find heat resistant glue and backing so i dont get burned any help would be great
Question by TaxiS 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
I have an idea to make a bunch of smallish balloons that have a LED sinside and small circuits that would control small heating elements to randomly change the density of the air inside the balloons, making them rise or fall. Just as a fun art project, making a bunch of them and letting them into a room for a party or something. A couple of issues I have: I'm having a hard time figuring out how to calculate the buoyancy, though that may have to come later once I decide on all the components. I don't want to use any lighter-than-air materials like Helium, just regular air heated up. I've been trying to find some small ceramic heaters, but I haven't had much luck. Ideally, something like this seems like it would work perfectly, but I need to find some that I can buy in quantities less than 20,000: http://cdsk.manufacturer.globalsources.com/si/6008801115398/pdtl/Heating-element/1070197186/Surface-Heating-Elements.htm Whatever I choose would also need to heat up and cool down pretty quickly so the rising/falling would have a stronger effect. I might be asking too much here. I'd need the whole circuit to be pretty small and lightweight. If I use an Arduino Uno, could I just transplant the ATmega328 into the balloon? If I used a small watch battery, would that even provide enough juice to operate an LED and a heating element? Anything bigger seems like it would be too heavy. As for the casing, I plan on whipping something up in Blender and printing it out in lightweight plastic. It would have to hold the circuitry and be airtight to keep the balloon sealed. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Topic by jemtan990 5 years ago | last reply 5 years ago
We have a popcorn machine at work. The kettle died and I took it home to fix. I didn't know a ton about them before but after working on it it seems to mainly consist of a heating element, a thermostat and an in-line fuse. I replaced the fuse but each time I would turn the thing on it would cook one batch of popcorn (much faster than before and not as well) and then not be able to do another. It seemed like the fuse was burning out. I had replaced it with the same model number as before. So I replaced the thermostat too. Still, the same thing happens. I tried reversing the poles in case I put the wires back in backwards and didn't realize it, in case that mattered, but no effect. I adjusted the thermostat, both old and new turning them down and down by what should be 200 degrees in the end but was getting the same effect, like the thermostat wasn't the issue. Does anybody have any ideas what is going on here? Is there maybe some inline resistor in the heating element I'll never be able to get to or see or something? Adding a picture. The two white wires are power, the green is a ground. There's nothing but wire beyond where they go.
Topic by technicallyartistic 4 years ago | last reply 1 year ago
I'm trying to build a heating element suspended 1" from an aluminum surface, and 2" below what will be a piece of acrylic (hopefully up to 1/2" thick) suspended by aluminum covered 2x4's. I want to have a rheostat (I think that's what they're called) for variable control of the heating element. The width of the element is undetermined, although 1/2" is probably close and this may be of little relevance. The aluminum case itself is 21"x6" and 3" deep So far, I've harvested a coil of Nickel Chromium from a cheap space heater but in trying to create a suspended piece, I've done little but destroy my NiChrom. It was cool, sparks and all, but I'd like to get it right this time. I do not wish to use a torch or heat gun as the pieces are to be wide and the heat must be even over the width to create an aesthetic bend. I will post some photos of the pieces tomorrow. Feel free to throw your hat in on any questions you want to answer. Electric Questions: How much NiChrom. do I need to heat 1/2" acrylic to around 400 degrees (F) for malleabiity? What is the best way to mount or suspend the nichrom.? What is the appropriate method to attach NiChrome to the wiring? (My home made coil using 1/16" copper wiring as a cast was sound in theory, but practice yielded sagging of the strip when active, and eventually sparky explosions at the mounts, after which time this question came to mind.) What kind of Rheostat do I need? What kinds are there? What's the difference? Can I get away with using a 120v/600w Dimmer switch instead (please say 'yes')? Acrylic Questions: What is the ideal heat for bending thicker acrylics? Would a fan below the heating element help disperse the heat evenly over the acrylic, or mess up the dispersion? Can a heating element such as this create sufficient heat to 'weld' 2 pieces together? Is this even possible? Thanks. I'm sure I'll have more questions before you can answer those. Peace - Ian.Wms
Topic by Ian.Wms 11 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hello everyone! I would like some help designing a small heating element. It will be battery powered (and voltage hopefully 3 or 4 C or D batteries). It should fit on the top of a quart mason jar, as I will be heating the milk inside to about 90 degrees Fahrenheit for a period of one week. I would hope that battery changing is not necessary, but if so, any help is wanted. I have soldering skills, and would prefer to make as much as possible by hand. I also have lots of spare parts and wires, as my dad is an HVAC Chiller Mechanic. A coil of wire attached to batteries slid through holes in the lid might work?
Question by EdmondD3 3 years ago | last reply 3 years ago
Hi I have a question based upon logics and the function of a peltier-element. we all know, that you can supply power to a peltier-element to raise the temperature on it one side and lowering it on the other. So it increases the differential. Now: If we heat the "cool" side and try to radiate the heat off the hot side (eg cooling it a bit), we can get a small amount of energy off the peltier as electrical current. The current depends on the temperature-differential: The bigger the more. OK so far. Nothing new. But what made me think was the fact, that you have 2 opposite states: Heat Side C and cool side H --> Get energy out in proportion of heat-differential. Put energy in --> Side C gets cooler and side H gets hotter in proportion of energy supplyed. By getting energy OFF the peltier, you in some way, redirect some parts of the heating-energy to the electrical-output. Also that is nothing new and we all know that since energy cannot be generated but only converted (in our case from thermal energy to electrical energy). Now what puzzles me is: Does it actually affect the temperature (-differential) of the peltier, if you get energy off it? Lets imagine the following experiment: - You build something like in https://www.instructables.com/id/Candle-Powered-Electric-Candle/ - Now you disconnect the load (lamp) and measure the temperature on the upper side (Away from the candle). - Wait for a steady-state when the upper side doesn't get hotter - Now turn on the lamp thus redirecting a bit of energy away from the peltier. - measure the temperature again on the upper side. Does it lower the upper temperature a bit? of course it wont be lower than the unheated state. But lets say the steady state was 55°C. Would it be like 50°C if i switch on the lamp?
Topic by Orngrimm 6 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
Hi folks, Essentially, I'm trying to make a heating pad and I'm becoming terrible confused. . . Let me start by offering some background on my project. I'm building a fermentation cabinet that will be cooled by a window A/C unit. The cabinet will be split into two halves. The first half, with the A/C unit, will be for lagering beer and cold conditioning. Temps will be around 40° F. The beer fermenting in the second half show be kept at about 60°-70° F. The 120mm PC fan will turn on and blow cold air into the second chamber when the temperature drops below a set point. I would like to have heating belts wrapped around the containers in the second chamber to bring the heat of the liquid up when it drops too low. This is where I'm getting very confused. I'm basically an idiot when it comes to electrical work. . . I would like to use about 7' of 30 AWG Teflon coated copper wire as my heating element. I've calculated the resistance of the wire at .722 ohms (this is the part where you ought to start speaking up and correcting me). Can anyone help me figure out what type of resistor I would need to drop the voltage down enough to get a 20W heating element? I'm starting with 120V from the wall. The sketch below is the cabinet design. Thanks, Chris
Topic by Soulproperty 9 years ago | last reply 7 years ago
Hey, I have 2 158W Peltier elements, that I would like to mount to some CPU-heatsinks, and power with an old 400W PSU. Can I "just do that"? There seams to be some caveats with how these units draw power AFAIK. Also, does anyone have any experience with how much heat displacement is needed to not just ending up frying the unit? Any suggestions on what heatsink to pair them with, and how strong a resistor to put on them? I want to use them at the maximum power I can get them to run with continuously for up to 2 hours. I have way too limited experience with electronics, and only a week to build my project, so I kind of have to go with the simplest approach here :(
Question by ELF 8 years ago | last reply 6 years ago
I'm wanting to start a project involving the use of an old coffee maker heating element. I don't know what type of safe enclosure to put it in to keep it separate from the wood fixture it will be attached to. Any ideas?
Question by jimjobe 9 years ago | last reply 9 years ago
Question by billyboone01 10 years ago | last reply 10 years ago