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What do you recommend as a home DVD player for the next decade ? Answered

Last night our Panasonic DVD QUIT just as we wanted to play Swiss-Family-Robinson for the grand kids. So we had that Yamaha 6 platter player that first lost its VF display and later the player quit too the only reason its still shelved is its the audio drive for speakers installed around the room.. . What is a bullet proof player with easy to use control and HDMI output in your opinion

Question by iceng    |  last reply


Desk mounted hifi amp? Answered

So I've just moved back from uni, and have encountered a couple of relocation problems - my beloved turntable won't fit on my shelves. So I'm planning on keeping it on my desk, but there's another problem, the amp that goes with it (Technics SUZ11) is shallower than the turntable, so if I stack them, the turntable is very prone to skipping from vibrations in the table (even if I just move my laptop a bit). So what I was thinking, was put the turntable on the desk, mount the amp underneath, have a joyously neat workspace? :)  I was looking at this instructable:. There are vents on the top and bottom of the amp, so airflow shouldn't be a problem, but I am worried about the weight (and ripping the mounting screws out of the table). I'd probably be sticking it on a cheap IKEA desk, which is made like this: Table top: Height 4cm Top: Fibreboard, Acrylic paint Frame: Particleboard, ABS plastic Filling material: Paper Bottom: Fibreboard Is it likely that I would encounter any problems? Or are there any other suggestions on how to do this? I've seen some CPU racks which  hold the unit in place with heavy duty straps, but these all seem inordinately expensive...

Question by clairey    |  last reply


How to safely open up hifi separates?

Hi there, I'm currently using a raspberry pi and LCD as a jukebox with Volumio. I was hoping to tidy it up in a nice enclosure and have found a broken digital tuner which I hope to recycle. The casing does display a warning of electric shocks so thought I'd ask for your advice! I've never really fiddled around with mains powered devices before, so are there any things I should watch out for, safety-wise? I'm only intending to remove the non-working electronics inside, not to make any adjustments to them. Thanks in advance

Question by clairey    |  last reply


B & O Redline Speaker (35) are great speakers but need a "Passive BeoLink Kit.

B & O Redline Speaker (35) are great speakers However I've just purchased the BeoSound 3200 player with 6000 speakers . I want to use the redlines in another room of he house. Is there another way to amplifiy  them without the need to use the expensive BeoLink Passive kit? The New  BeoLab speakers are powered directly. Thanks Ken

Question by shootme    |  last reply


Can I modify my hi-fi so that the cassette deck becomes a USB port?

I want to add a USB port to my stereo system (Home Hi-Fi). I want to keep the CD drawer, so getting rid of that is a definate no-no. It also has two cassette decks, which i'd be more than happy to modify. I know the tech exists, but can't find any schematics for it (probably for a good reason, but still). Any help would be much appreciated Allyn ~ FreakWorx

Question by freakworx    |  last reply


Making a small radio??

Hey guys, I work for a radio station that has the idea of recycling old personal walkmen and connecting them to old hi fi speakers and containing them in a small box and strategically placing them around the city center, at bus stops etc. I was wondering if anyone would know how to do this, especially at a low cost (preferably with old parts) and without needing an amp? is this possible? Thanks, Tony :)

Topic by tonycraig    |  last reply


Help wanted to modify a bluetooth speaker to a wired connection to a hifi

Hello I have a subwoofer left over from my Samsung soundbar home cinema system which is no longer working. The subwoofer though is working fine is it possible to wire in connections to the bluetooth subwoofer to connect this to my hifi? I have attached a picture of the electronics of the subwoofer, if anybody knows if this is possible please get in touch?

Topic by Steve_f  


Help wanted to modify a bluetooth speaker to a wired connection to a hifi

Hello I have a subwoofer left over from my Samsung soundbar home cinema system which is no longer working. The subwoofer though is working fine is it possible to wire in connections to the bluetooth subwoofer to connect this to my hifi? I have attached a picture of the electronics of the subwoofer, if anybody knows if this is possible please get in touch?

Question by Steve_f    |  last reply


How to design a piezoelectric speaker with high impedance at 30 - 150 watt?

I'm looking for a guide on how to build and measure a piezoelectric speaker with regular impedance 4ohm , 8ohm , 16ohm , with watts from 30 up to 150watts rms , the purpose use is for amplifiers such as hifi amps , guitar tube amps , also i want to know if it possible and how to make a high impedance piezoelectric speaker above the 1kohm for a OTL Tube Amps , to solve the problem instead using many tubes to lower the high impedance , to use a piezoelectric design that has the high impedance for example 4000ohm in this case no need for output transformer or too much of tubes, plugging the tubes directly to a piezoelectric speaker , the size of the speaker it may be bigger than a regular piezoelectric element due to the high impedance and adding other material for resonance , anyone can help? please :)

Question by Ask Alice    |  last reply


What headphones should I get?

I am looking for some new headphone for public and at home use. I have been looking around and I really like the Grado SR60i's, but I don't think they will work, due to them being open and their extremely long cord. Can anyone recommend some headphones that would fit what I am looking for? Here is what I want: Over or on ear Preferably closed Transportable Good sound Ok looks Cheap (Up to $100) Thank you. Also if anyone knows, do you think the Grado SR60i or SR80i would work for public use, even though it is not made for it?

Question by MPB09    |  last reply


AV output socket in TV set.

Hi all i am finding difficult using the AV output socket in my TV because it have only one output socket. I have to plug it out and connect to what I may intend to use (VCD,VCR,HIFI). Can someone suggest a way or a circuit to make (4 AV output will be nice). Thanks.

Topic by sunwah  


How to build a jammer

Hi All, I'm a new member living in the UK and don't know anything about eletronics.I am looking for some help on how to block my neighbours radio signal-He is a radio ham  and everytime he is transmitting i get the whole conversation through my  radio, hifi and stand alone TV's and anything that has a speaker attached to it-sometimes get lines through my TV. Hope you can help Best regards Tony Mac

Topic by Tony mac    |  last reply


des leds qui réagissent au son mais système non branché directement à la sortie du son

Bonjour tout le monde, j'aimerais de l'aide sur un projet qui me tient à coeur je suis passionné de diabolo, je pratique moi même et j'aurais aimé créer un kit lumineux à incorporer dans le diab et que les leds qui seraient dans ce kit  réagissent a une musique environnante ( une musique provenant d'une chaîne hifi par exemple ) et tout sa sans qu'il y ait de branchement qui viennet sur la chaine hifi. je voudrais que les leds régissent exactement cmome les leds dans le projet suivant: https://www.instructables.com/id/Music-LED-Light-Box/ mais sans fil qui sort du système et avec de composants petits pour que le système puisse rentrer dans les calottes de mon diabolo (idéal ce serait un circuit imprime qui fasse  10cm sur 10 cm max) i vous connaissez quelque information qui pourrait m'aider a mener a bien mon projet merci répondre sur ce topic je vous en serait reconnissant merci et bonne journée

Topic by hypolite    |  last reply


Printer disconnecting or USB port disappearing in Windows

First I thought to make an Instructable out of it but realised there are too many different printer models out there, so this time no images. What is this about you might wonder? Well, let me tell you my story first and you might see similarities to your problem. It all started with me getting a new PC as the old one got memory problems (RAM modules failed). After a few successful prints I noticed errors coming up in the log window. Mainly things like communication problems and that some data is sent again. Realised that on my new PC I did not check the speed settings for the COM ports, so I adjusted them to match the printer board and moved on without even bothering to check the logs. Then, half way through a bigger print, it all stopped and I could not even connect to the printer anymore. After a power cycle on the printer all was fine again but the error kept coming back every now and then. At this point I started to read up on the problem and the most common recommendation is to print over SD - too bad if your printer does not support it and too bad it does not address the issue at all! A few more technical answers pointed to the Logitech drivers, especially mouse, keyboard and 3D vision. As I was using the same outer hardware as before and also the same drivers (and same version numbers) I simply ruled this one out too, although it might be a vital clue for others. When starting to get frustrated and after opening a cold blonde I remembered that I had a similar issue a long time ago and that it was related to loose wires on the screw terminals for the power connection. Measured it all but according to my trusty multimeter all was fine. Now comes the fun part: I friend of mine with a HiFi fetisch was here when I testing the connection and he started laughing at my attempts. He explained that ALL his connections, no matter if power or audio signal are oversized! Here I started to wonder if he is up to something and looked up similar circuit board mounted power plugs. To my surprise they are all rated for anything between 1 and 5Amps. Even without a heated bed powered by the printer board I think everyone will agree that a max 5A connections is not enough. My frined then offered to check the plug and connector at his place - what a great thing to have friends :) He used a signal generator and small speaker with the plug as a connector between them. With an oscilloscope connected to both input and speaker you could see, while moving the plug, that the audio signal become somehow unclean - there where spikes and missing bits everywhere depending which way you wobble the plug. After taking the whole thing apart the destructive way we saw the cause: overheated contact areas with discolored surfaces. I replaced the plug now with a 250V/20A one from an old laser printer and had no USB or connection issues ever since. Ok, what's the thing with power and USB problems on a 3D printer? Almost all printer boards have the ground connections bridged to avoid interference on the USB signals. This mean, in case of a faulty power connection or one that is "dirty", the USB port on the computer can receive back EMF signal or even a voltage spike. In return a smart bios either disconnects the port or disables it until the problem is solved, in our case by restarting / reconnecting the printer. But even with no obvious signs of power problems you can get  a so called "dirty" connection. Dirty covers all from corrosion, worn springs for battery compartments, overheating or in the old days burnt relay contacts. For our printer it usually means that either the soldering connection on the board or a screw came loose, in rare cases like mine an undersized connector can burn out due to being unable to handle the currents. The bad thing is that you can not always spot these problems the easy way... Is there an easy way to tell that my USB problem is caused by a faulty power connection? Yes and no. Some boards offer indicating LED's, you connect power and the LED stays on even if the printer is disconnected from the PC. If it is more than just a Power on" indicator" this LED will be off after the printer stops working and in the device manager your serial port for the printer is gone. You might also hear the warning sound from Windows in regards to a device being disconnected. If all the above is true than most likely your power connection has a problem somewhere - if in doubt replace all screw and plug connectors for the power. Sometimes the problem is less obvious. Your print software might show communication problems in the log window or re-send a lot of commands. If the speed selection for the com port is the same as for the firmware of the printer board and as set in the printer software, it could also be a power connection problem. But to be on the save side try a shielded cable with ferrite cores on both ends first for the connection between computer and printer. Can I take any measures to prevent the problem? Sure, you could solder everything and make sure the wires are fixed in place so they won't move. But a simple indicator might be enough: Solder a piece of LED strip to the power connection on the circuit board - if the connection has trouble the LED's will show it in most cases by changing light levels or flickering. On top they act as a nice light to see what's happening during a print.

Topic by Downunder35m