Does anybody know how to build or get a pump that costs maybe like $20 that will pump to at least 400 psi?
Topic by waterrocketexpert | last reply
I'm looking to build a 400 watt high pressure sodium ballast with mogul light attachment, I kinda would like a step by step guide though, thanks!
Question by keepinitgreen | last reply
Can I use a Co2 regulator to regulate high pressure air. I am trying to build a high pressure system using a scuba tank or paintball/airsoft tank to operate air tools, pressurize pipes, fill tires, inflate balloons, dust work areas and computers, etcetera. There are C02 regulators but not many 'air' regulators. I just want to use air and not Co2.
Question by RandallIja | last reply
I am looking into a green power system but, I would need 4500 psi hydrogen tanks. They are way to small to be practical, even the large 144 c.f. ones (biggest I could find). Is there anything special about hydrogen storage tanks, or will any 4500 psi tank work, and does anyone know were to get big ones, like huge. If not, any ideas on how to fab one. I know a guy who is high pressure certified so he could weld it, but what thickness of metal is needed for say a 12" diameter tank about 10-15' foot long. (yea, that big)
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I have tried this question before but, people pay little attention it seems like. I know you can modify engines and all that stuff so that they will compress air and all that good stuff, but CAN THEY HANDLE 4500 psi type pressures. The heads of 4500 psi compressors don't look like the cylinders are much bigger than those on a lawnmower.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
Hey Guys, Any one have experience with fluids? Is it possible to build a device that would take high pressure air from an air compressor and from that make at least a mediocre respectablely powered washer? I'm thinking about buying a small air compressor and and looking to see if i can use it for other things as well. Thanks! JP
Topic by jpl500 | last reply
We were discussing about blood and blood pressure in Biology one day, and I asked my biology teacher this question. She said that the blood pressure would shoot back up again, but didn't really elaborate. Can someone here explain why this isn't a good fix for High blood pressure?
Question by DJ Radio | last reply
Hmm, Browsing The electronics goldmine, I saw this: http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G17814 Summarized: High pressure loaded hydropneumatic gas spring. This compression spring has an extended length of 32" with an inner rod diameter of 8mm and an outer cylinder diameter of 18.25mm. The compression force is 360 newtons (80.9 lbs of force) and a stroke of 366 newtons (82.2 lbs of force) The first person to post an idea for what this can be used for gets a patch! And maybe other people if I like the idea!
Topic by schumi23 | last reply
I am looking for a high pressure pump (3000-4500) psi. I finally got the idea that I could use a pump like this: Hand Pump I think they have a built in reservoir but I think I could pump into it at around 100 psi from a pre-compressor. Will this work or can it not pump air. Also, would it need oiled because it doesn't have the oil flowing through. Just so you know I wouldn't be pressuring a vessel to 4500 psi by hand, I would rig up a motor for this.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I the past 4 months I have replaced the water heater, water softener, and the pressure tank. Everything was working fine until I developed a leak in a PVC elbow from the outside water supply As soon as that was replaced and I turned the wter supply back on my hot water pressure dropped to almost nothing in all of the faucets. I am thinking some scale got lodged in the outflow pipe from the water heater and I need to apply high pressure air from one of the faucets to force this out.
Help! We just moved into a new house and the water pressure seemed pretty high, especially at the bathroom sink (it sprays everywhere when turned on full). I tested the pressure at an exterior hose bib and it measured at 81 psi. It also measured at 79 psi at the cold water supply valve for the washing machine. I sent the pictures listed here to my father-in-law, who seems to believe that I can adjust the pressure with the current plumbing system. I looked everywhere for a pressure regulator in the line, but couldn't find one. The only thing I can think of is that he believes the gray valve above the meter is a glob valve and can be used to throttle down the pressure. Any help would be appreciated!
Topic by dklaver15 | last reply
I was think what was better? a Small tank with a higher pressure? or a large tank with a Lower Pressure? Of coarse if you had a small tank you gun would look better. This is how air rifles work... you break the barrel (push it down) and that push a pump in to a small tank at a high PSI, Thats why its hard to break the barrel. I was also thinking that if you had a Higher PSI in the air resivour it would release quicker?!. What do you think?
Topic by oscarthompson
I need the most cheap, most efficient source of air possible, I am on a low budget so refillable air would be nice.
Question by Paintballer98 | last reply
Hello Instructablers, I would love some input from some of the great minds in this community for slightly mad project I have been thinking about. In the spirit of "What Could Possibly Go Wrong" I am planning to try powering a small boat with an engine drive water pump. We recently got some new pumps in at work that will do up to 80m head (113 psi), or flows to about 750 litres per minute (I think that's about 164 gallons). Powered by 13HP Honda engine. It's a very impressive pump, but will it be able to power a boat? Here's my plan so far: Either obtain or build a small boat. Perhaps with a flat bottom. I will mount the pump as low and central as I can. Full of water the pump will weigh around 50-60kg. The suction hose would be connected to a tank flange that penetrates the hull at the deepest point. The discharge will penetrate the transom. Various nozzle sizes will be tried to find out the best compromise between flow and velocity. What do you think? Considering most of the jetboats I have seen have massive V8 engines in them, could my idea possibly work? Will it need to be an impossibly small boat? Will I need more than one pump? How many? What's more important; flow, pressure, velocity? Should I stick to oars? I have other pumps to choose from with greater flows if that makes a difference. Go here to see them: http://www.pumpmaster.com.au/engine-drive-pumps.htm Here's silly video of the boys at Pumpmaster in Queensland trying out the new machine... http://youtu.be/zjYvENfr1cw
Topic by cammers | last reply
Today a friend of mine asked me if I know a way to reduce the noise level of his compressor in the work shed. With the current heat he prefers to work in the evening and nights, which does not make his neighbours too happy. His main use for several airbrush guns and sometimes for mormal airtools or the big spray gun for an undercoat or similar. So his main concern is oil in the airline and the actual flow rate is of second concern as he has an old 25kg propane cyclinder as an additional air tank. For relative low air volumes I would suggest an old fridge compressor. With a thicker pipe at the outlet that is filled with stainless steel wool most of the oil stays in the compressor. That is if this pipe is a) long enough b) upright c) of sufficient diameter so there is enough for the oil to avoid it being pushed up A second, standard oil seperator will be enough for the oil level required for airbrush stuff - and most other things too. If there is no pressure regulator on the airbrush system it is best to add a small air tank and shut off valve for it. In our case however a fridge compressor would be just enough to keep the bigger airbrush gun running but not to fill the tank at the same time. Not to mention the problem of fluctuating pressure levels. Since we already had a tank and pressure shut off connected to the loud compressor it was only a matter of finding something that keeps the neighbours happy. The first thing we did was to check how often the compressor comes on and how long it runs till the tank is back to pressure. With that and the stated air volume on the compressor we guesstimated that something a bit bigger than the compressor of a window airconditioner should be sufficient. The search begins.... If you don't know what to look for I give you a few hints: Older airconditioners often run on R22 or R12 - both use quite high system pressures which is a bonus, but more on that later. As a rule of thumb for these compressors you cans say: the bigger the higher the flow rate. At the local wreckers and scrap yards we found a few units but noticed the bigger ones often used three phases and not just one :( So we opted for the R22 compressor of a 4.5kW unit. Keep in mind the 4.5kW is for the entire system, so the quite massive fans can be removed from the sum. Usually the compressor alone is the 2.5 - 3kW range. Ok, we found the big thing but how does this help us? First things first ;) The oil was removed as the housing stating the original oil amount. This allowed us to use an oil rated for air use that has little to no water absorption qualities - you don't want water in your compressor. With the usual heat the water should be no problem anyway. Next was a pressure test to make sure the thing actually still works, so we added some plumping in the form of standard connectors to the inlet and outlet. We got well above 200PSI and abondoned the test at this stage as it was more than enough already. The air volume seemd to be well more than expected too so let'S move to the next stage. A fridge or aircon compressor always needs to have a certain amount of oil in it as it will otherwise seize and overheat quickly. But they are also designed so that the oil mixes with the refrigerant to cool all moving parts. So the biggest hurdle is to make sure the oil stays where it should stay and won't enter or get lost in the tank. Only real option for this to use something to catch the oil that is capable of releasing it into the compressor once it shuts off. Now there are several options for this so I start with the most basic: A "catch can" will get most of the oil, especially if filled with stainless steel wool or similar. Downside is that you have to find a way to get it back into the compressor. A step better is a thicker pipe filled with stainless steel wool to catch the oil. If placed upright and the outgoing pipe can be bend a bit upwards you have a good chance that most of the oil will sweep through the valves and get back down into the compressor housing. But only too often the cheap or even free compressor is better than expected and the oil won't get back into the housing as the vlaves are just too good. The last and IMHO best option is a pressurised return system. Most compressors for bigger aircons have a seperate filling port or sealed off piece of pipe. In this case you can do a simple check to see if they are usable for our purposes. Open the port of pipe and use a simple bike bump or similar to get some pressure in it. With a dedicated oil filling port you are best off but they are hard to find. The air you pump in should come out of the high pressure side - you might need a little pressure to overcome the valves. If you hear any bubbling in the housing (use a pipe on your ear or a sensitive microphone) it means you are going through the oil inside the compressor - perfect! You might not hear any bubbling but the port or pipe is still usable. Get ready with your fingers and start the compressor. The fill pipe should be sucking air in, same for the service port if there is one. A dedicated oil port should not suck but instead force some oil up if you cover the high pressure outlet. I assume all is good and no oil is splashing out of the open pipe or port. Add a small amount of oil with a syringe or similar into the port/pipe. If you see an oil mist coming out of the high side it is bad news. Clean outlet air is good. To get the oil back from the catch pipe or can we have to add a hose or pipe with a needle valve. It needs to be adjusted so that there is only a very little airflow (or oil mist) coming out. This regulated outlet is now being connect to the port/pipe with a bit of suction that we found earlier. Now every time the compressor runs the collected oil is forced back into the compressor :) Please double check the port/pipe used is not directly connected to the intake port! The last thing you want is a puddle of oil going into the cylinder and damaging it! They are designed to move gas but not liquid! If in doubt use a hardened sttel nail or similar to create a small puncture in the top of the compressor housing if there is nothing else to use. Check first if the material sound very thick, if so it might help to drill with a 5 or 6mm drill first - only about 1mm to make sure you won't enter the housing and conimate it with metal shavings! Once you have a small puncture hole of about 2mm in diameter get some 2 component metal repair glue mix and add a suitable connection for the collecting pipe/can. If you feel up to it you can of course use a blow torch and solder the connection on. Now we have the compressor working with a oil return system that also gives up very little to no oil at all in our system. You might now think you are good to go but you should at least add a decent and fine filter to the air inlet ;) The compressor noise of a bigger system can still be an issue if thicker pipes are used that allow the noise to travel out. Keep in mind they usually run in a fully closed system.... As we only need to match the noise level of the compressor itself a solid steel can like an old fire extinguisher in the 1kg rage is a good way out. Fill it with filter wool and a fine filter pad after adding some hose connectors either end. You can misuse the trigger nozzle and keep it to seal the top if you braze a connector on it. If the intake here is about 5 times larger than the pipe connection to the compressor itself the air flow going into the thing is low enough for a cheap paper air filter can or box if you have a quite dusty enviroment to work with. The real trick is to have a hose or pipe on the inside of the fire extinguisher connected to the compressor pipe connection. A garden hose is great here as is reduces the noise quite good and is dirt cheap. Make a lot of about 2mm sized holes in this pipe and close the other end of it off. Now the compressor will suck it through the small holes and the soft garden hose reduces the noise, the surrounding padding brings it down to basically nothing. The special case of clean air for airbrush.... If you read this for the sole purpose of airbrush use then this chapter is just for you, all other might want to skip it. The two things you don't want to enter your gun is oil or water. Both are a common thing in normal compressors due to lubrication and pressure difference resulting in condensation of the humidity in the intake air. Oil free compressors of good quality can cost quite a few bucks and often require ongoing replacement of membranes or piston seals. A refrigeration compressor with the above modifications already provides clean enough air for most airbrush users if a proper tank is used to store enough of the compressed air. So you might just want to add a basic oil filter or very fine paper filter close to the regulator. For very detailed work with very sensitive paints you might want to build a filter box containing of several layers of oil absorbent paper. This stuff is often used in the industry to clean up minor oil spills and bind oil very well. A PVC pipe (pressure rated please) with 5-8 layers of filter screens should last about a lifetime before the filters need changing if the diameter is in the 10-15cm range. That leaves us with the dreaded problem of condensation and water contamination. Depending on the type of paint and gun used a small amount of water vapour is usually no problem. Solvent based paints usally show their disliking by unwanted drops or run offs caused by water droplets. Of course you just go and buy a professional dehumidifier and accept the ongoing replacement costs for the cartridges... But if you are in a climated that has above 30% humidity for most of the year than you will have to remove the water one way or the other. A big enough storage tank for the air that is upright usually helps to release any condensated water prior to usage. But if you use a homemade tank you might want to avoid this problem completely and forget about water in the system altogehter. Silaca gel is the answer here, specifically the indicating variety that changes color once "full". A spaghetti glas or similar should be big enough unless you are in a very humid climate - is so just use multiple in a row. The air intake side for the compressor has to go through the silica gel to be effictive. This mean we need two holes in the lid. One with a pipe or hose going all the way to the botom - that is the air intake side. The other right on the lid - this is the air outlet side which continues to the compressor intake. With the color change in the silica gel we can estimate how much usage we have left until we have to heat it up to remove the water. If this color change happens quite fast from the bottom to the top, let's say within three days or less than you really need to use more jars with silica gel in a row or a longer one - like using a long and clear acrylic pipe instead. Of course you can always just cut holes and "viewing glasses" along the length to a PVC pipe.... No matter how wet your climate is you want to get at least 100 hours of compressor run time before you need to recharge the silica gel. This brings us to the recharging.... Once the color changes and you only have about one quarter left to the top you want to get the water out of the gel and re-use it. To do this you simply heat it up in your oven to around 120-150°C - the supplier should state the max temp for this. If you use a gas oven or one with limited accuracy here it is best to stay within the 120° range. You need to stir and mix the gel or use something big enough like an oven tray. But be aware that these little balls are like glass! The roll and bounce like no tomorrow! IMHO it best to use an old cooking pot that has no plastic handles for this and not to overfill it. This allows for easy mixing without making a mess that might cause a bad trpping hazard on your kitchen floor tiles! Once the gel is back to original colr it is time to let it cool of to a safe temperature and to fill it back into our canister or pipe. Tanks and shut off systems.... We have a refrigeration compressor working for us, and since it was for R22 we can use much higher pressures as a simple compressor from the hardware store. The low pressure side is used to 70PSI or around 5Bar of pressure in normal working conditions. The high side often works at pressure in the range of 200-300PSI or 14-20Bar! The tank we used is a big propane tank that was restamped at some stage in his life for the use of LPG - so it was tested to quite high pressures. The lower pressure limit is what keeps the stored gas liquid at the given temperature. For Propane at an imaginary 30°C this would around 155PSI or 10Bar. The stamped test pressure, although outdated, showed 600PSI or around 40Bar of pressure with no problems - and the thing was thick in the walls... The old shut off switch from an old air compressor was adjustable after removing the safety cap with a bit of force and the help of few cold beer. With a little tank attached we adjusted it to turn the compressor off at 250PSI or around 17Bar of pressure. If your tank is old or has no test pressure stamped on do your own test in a safe location. Make sure the area is secured so there is no chance of debris from a brusting tank can go anywhere - this includes to chain down the tank itself ;) Use the aircon compressor to fill it up to 300PSI or 20Bar of pressure - this should be tolerated with ease by any propane or LPG tank. Shut the valves and let it rest for a day or so. It is best to do this in the early morning so the heat from the day will slightly increase the pressure. At the end you still want to have a working tank and no major pressure losses. All of our mods on this tank were done without actually harming the tank. This was possible as the original valve had a release port for filling purposes - as it standard on most refillable ones. Here we removed the valve and added a pressure guage instead - better to know what is happening than to assume things. As this "port" had a seperate connection to the bottom of the brass valve we added as T-connection to allow for the connection to the compressor. Just be be really sure a thin piece of copper tubing was brazed to the exit hole of this port so all incoming air will be going down and away from the outlet connection with the big shut off valve on top - which we use to actually isolate and close the tank when not it use. Last thing required was something to connect the pressure shut off switch and regulator to. That was the only major expense on this project as we had no old BBQ hose or similar to get a suitable connector to the tank. We bought a simple adapter for the use of smaller hoses and cut the unwanted bits off we there was only the bottle conntector with the nut left. After removing the rubber ring we brazed piece of copper pipe onto it. Here we drilled holes and fitted severy connectors. First for the pressure switch, then for the connection to the pressure regulator and two standard ones with a ball valve for air hose connections. One air hose connection female, the other male so a standard compressor can be connected as well or "backfilled" for additional and mobile storage use. As we wanted to avoid any reduction in the safety and burst pressure no release valve was added at the bottom on the tank. The added silica gel filter stage was used instead so no water will get into the system to begin with. Additionally, and painfully for me and me friend, the inside of the tank was coated with a layer of acrylic paint to prevent and rust as it was free from it when we checked it at the beginning. This involved filling a suitable amount of paint into it, closing the top while keeping the thread clean and then to move the tank around to cover the inside evenly. If you do this be prepared for some weird movements with your friends LOL Once we were sure all ust be covered by paint at least three times we released the exxess paint and allowed the inside to dry with the assistance of some air forced to go in with a length of pipe. This was repeated 3 times... Then another two just for the bottom third of it where there might be some moisture after all... Now you don't want to remove the brass valve with everything connected to it just to turn the tank over to releae the collected water. Instead we made sure the added pipe on the former relese port would go all the way to the bottom of the tank. If any water collection is suspected only the connection to the compressor needs an additional valve for the disconnection so the water will be force back out here. To make this easy and fast we used standard quick connectors and a piece of flexible airhose rated to 20bar of pressure for the connection to the compressor. We checked the performance of the moisture removal and oil removal only for a few hours of running time while priming some surface for later use. The compressor oil used was very smelly to say it nice but nothing coul be smelled in the first paper filter after the pressure regulator. To check for remaining moisture levels (65% humidity in the house) we used a 10m length of clear PVC tubing going through an ice bath. After 30 minutes of moderate air release there was no condensation on the inside of the tubing visible. Of course if you only need it for air supply and don't care about a bit of moisture and oil you can keep it simple ;) Benefits of doing such a stupid thing: For starters noise and the peace of mind that you can do a lot of airbrushing until the compressor needs to kick in again. Then of course the benefit of an almost silent system compared to a standard compressor - something you can actually tolerate while doing art. But the real deal is knowing YOU did it and you did it for cheap. Warnings and some advise... I know, it should be at the very beginning but I just hope you read till the end ;) If the compressor fails from overheating you are up for a new one. This means the tan size should be within the limits of what the compressor can handle - same for what you actually use on air. You want an empty tank to be filled before the compressor feels hot to touch - quite warm is fine but if you can't leave your hand on it then it is too hot. Same story for the usage. There is no point in using a tiny 10 liter storage tank if you need that capacity every few minutes. The compressor would only have little pauses and overheat quickly. You want a good balance of usage time before the tank goes below supply pressure and running time of the compressor to get it to full pressure again. This brings us to the safety of high pressures. Where possible only copper tubing or sufficiently rate hoses should be used, the later as short as possible to avoid them acting like a whip if something goes wrong. When it comes to the safety of the tank you want to make sure to stay withing it's rated limits. All benefits of a compressor capable of producing over 500PSI otr close to 35Bar is wasted if your tank and pressure regulator can't handle it. This must not mean that you try to use a gas cylinder of unknow age and pressure rating and assume it will work! If in doubt use a lower shut off pressure and stay within the limits of normal air compressors - which is around 120PSI or 8Bar. Never, ever use a tank that is compromised by inside rust or bad corrosion on the outside! If you don't know how to braze copper tubing, pipes and connectors then check out some of the great Instructables about it! Whenever you know you won't use any compressed air for more than a few hours close all valves especially the ones going back to the compressor on the high pressure side! Some compressors really don't like a huge pressure difference constantly pushing on the reed valves. If your tank is big enough to allow for more than one hour of operation before the compressor has to top it up you might want to consider a one way valve right on the compressor outlet. This will prevent any massive pressures going onto the valves - especially helpful for modern compressors that only rely on the sealing capabilities of the clyinders or rotary system used. One thing you should always consider is a pressure relief valve rated for about 50PSI more than your tank pressure - it can be added to the pipe ;) If the shut off valve ever fails the relief valve gives you the ease of mind that it will blow before your tank does. Maintenance... If modded correctly the compressor should stay in the compressor and the compressor itself should not overheat from use. Having said that your compressor might force out a little more than your best catch system can handle. If that becomes a problem it might help to use an oil with a lower viscosity. If all fails it just means you need to top up oil once the last last paper filter is filthy or use slightly more to begin with so the intervals are longer. The silica gel, if used should be recharged before all of it is wasted - no point in adding it if you use it once full of water. If no gel is used there will be water in the storage tank. Even with the added paint and a good air filter it is possible that nasty things grow in there. Making sure the tank is emptied of any water after long uses and again before the next use is good practise. If no pressure gauge is used on the tank you must make sure the shut off valve is always working fine and within set parameters. I strongly recommend using a gauge and if not to perform a pressure check of the system every now and then to confirm all is within parameters of normal operation. A compressor constantly running means you either use far too much air or you have a leak - same story if the compressos kicks in after some of forgetting to shut it off and close the valves. If you keep the above in mind the salvaged compressor should work just fine for many years to come. Troubleshooting and alternatives.... You put everything together the right way, double checked and something is till not right? Maybe my crystal ball helps me to find something... 1. Always oil coming through the catch system. It usually means you use too much of it. A salvaged compressor, if the refrigent was removed legally from the system should still have a "correct" level of oil inside. Too much oil would mean is being pumped through the system at an excessive rate. Very thin compressor oils tend to do that in the compressor is misude like we do. Changing to standard mineral oil can help here. As a last resort you can use a pressure gauge or good judgement to allow more flow through the needle valve from the catch system back to the compressor. Too much backflow here would mean we loose system pressure to the set level of this needle valve! 2. The R22 rated compressor seems to be unable to produce enough pressure. First do a leak test using soapy water to rule out any leaks. Do a back pressure test on the ports. If you can push air through them in the reverse way with ease it means the valves are damaged making the compressor useless. You need to replace it. A regular cause with our type of usage is a constand back pressure from the storage tank to the compressor. To prevent this it might help to mount an electric solenoid between the compressor and storage tank. Such valve should be off when the pressure switch is engaged and on when the pressure switch is disengaged. This prevents the coil from overheating but requires a "normally off" type of valve. A good source at the wreckers are cars with LPG systems installed, they usually have suitable 12V valves somewhere on or near the tank and filler cap. 3. I am using several kg of silica gel but still get a lot of water in my storage tank. Going overboard in a humid climate can be a good thing here but if moisture makes it into the tank even with great amounts of silica gel there are only two causes: a) the tube or cylinder used is not long enough or not wide enough to allow the absorption of all the moisture going through. b) the flow rate is too high and the temperatures are too. For the first the solution is obvious enough. The second is related to the first for the diameter and lenght but temperatures constantly above the 30°C while operating somehow limits what the gel can do. Using a cooling coil on the intake side or simply putting the gel containers in icy water will help to a great deal here. If that is not an option than I suggest to layer the gel and to seperate it with fine paper filter screens. This will slow and even out the airflow allowing for more contact time with the gel. 4. The compressor gets very noisy after some time. If "some time" means more than 30-45 minutes you simply have it running too much and it overheats. If the noise increases too much when reaching the shut off pressure it can mean the pressure is too high for it. 5. Can I use multiple compressors from smaller units or refrigerators to get enough air volume? Of course you can but it might mean you have to lower your pressure expectations. Consider that each individual compressor would get the back pressure from all other compressors running while it's outlet valve is closed. To avoid premature failure you want to make sure the compressors are shut off at a lowver pressure. 6. I don't want to use a big tank but require a good airflow for airbrush. Two or three fridge compressors working one after the other with a small tank to keep the output pressure even can allow for about 30 minutes runtime per compressor. With three it gives one hour for the the first to cool off and should be enough for ongoing work. Downside is you need to make some sort of automatic switch to "rotate" to compressor working. Last words.... Is you find any spelling mistakes you can keep them. However, if you use them in any way to make a profit with them I kindly ask for 10% of your earning from it ;) Why did I not make an Instructable out of all this? Well the day was very hot, the beer very cold and my mobile phone at home, so I did not take any pics. To top it up the whole thing is now in a seperate box for additional noise reduction so it can be used in the same room where the guy is working. Of course he just used a nailgun for the job without any regard of access or at least easy view of the two pressure gauges. Typical if you have a great idea and the cold beer tells you to forget all about screws or hinges ROFL Only comment was: You created it and it works fine, why would need more than the pipe connections for the gel and regulator? Maybe he will reconsider when the service is due....
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
I went to look at a friends house to see what was causing the electricity bill to be double the cost compared to last years. What I found was that the hot water cylinder was (1) turned up too hot, and, (2)is constantly trickling out of the overflow pipe. This cylinder isn't vented through the roof, it has a pressure doohickey on the top that vents water direct to the drain outside. Is there a way to check that the pressure valve is working ok, or just get a plumber to replace it?
Question by Gaark | last reply
I've received the request to build a theatrical prop that should be able to shoot a diluted tempera paint 30- 50' from the gun. Any suggestions for where to begin looking for a pump capable of that kind of pressure or velocity to shoot a relatively narrow stream great distances? I don't think water pumps would be able to handle the extra viscosity of the diluted paint. This would not be aimed at anyone, but over a dance crowd. Amazingly, people pay money for this experience. Anyone know what the guy with this green paint is using? Looks like a miniature fire hose. Many thanks for any suggestions! Instructables members are a talented and diverse bunch! Everyone's answers have been very helpful. Through your suggestions and additional research we have determined that portable fire fighting pumps are the simplest method for moving a diluted paint solution great distances. The suggestions for using pressurized bursts of paint have also been helpful. Thanks everyone!
Question by davidandora | last reply
Everyone likes to fly like ironman but he uses high technology like plasma, repulsors to fly which are still in research. But i have an idea , with enough pressure, air compressor can be used to lift us like flyboard but they are little heavy, but it can be modified. so tell me your ideas in this forum. Air extinguisher is good but lasts for only few seconds, so share your ideas, Thanks.
Topic by mano.lingam.3 | last reply
Is a possible way to super cool a gas (nitrogen or oxygen) to liquid temperatures by using a sub-zero tank of 5000 psi compressed air to blast that gas over a radiator and therefore cool the gas in the radiator to a liquid, then quickly pump it to a chilled high pressure insulated tank.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
For something I am in the process of designing, I need a valve that can be connected to a high pressure source and will allow the gas from the high pressure side to to flow into a sealed container on the other side until a pre-set pressure is reached. It should then shut off. The system used to do this should also be able to handle a very high pressure spike (possibly even the type of compressed pressure wave generated during a super-sonic combustion / detonation) on the sealed container side. If you can provide a diagram or the name of a type of valve or even just a description of how this could be done it would be appreciated. No computer controlled stuff please. ##################### The answer I have discovered is to use a regular diaphragm-type pressure regulator. ######################
Question by Jaycub | last reply
Hello, I am currently in the process of making a pneumatic air-gun, I have previously made one out of PVC but had major leakage problems.. Ive moved on to metal.. Will high pressures break the welds and fly off and hit me in the face?? What pressures? Can I weld brass to steel?
Topic by alex117 | last reply
Question by dbird1 | last reply
I know there are exspensive or maybe just newer PW's that you can add detergent to but not mine. It's just one of those hardware store 1300 PSI electric models. I'm just thinking that there has to be a way to provide some detergent to my spray. I think tapping into the feed hose with a siiphon rig would be a bad idea cuz then you'd be sending the soap through the pressure pump. It's have to be on the other end but there you have high pressure hose you might not want to cut. My thoughts flow along the lines of some sort of connector pipe comming off the output side that goes between the unit and the spray hose connector. You could make it a bit larger to hold like a dishwasher table or rig some sort of siphon hose (like a hose end sparyer) maybe. I'm not sure. My main thought isn't to use the soap for pressure CLEANING but to use the much greater reach of the pressure sprayer to spread the soap/cleaning solution farther - like up to second story siding. thanks
Topic by danneauxs | last reply
What is the most practical and cost efficient way to make a 10m3 gas bag for the storage of hydrogen? I am planning to store pure Hydrogen (made from water electrolysis) in an outdoor area, a bit like the way biodigestor gas is stored in low cost, small scale installations. My concern is the high effusing nature of the gas through membrane material. My first thought was to use reinforced PVC like that used for truck tarpaulins but I can't find any info on effusing rates verses other materials. Ideally the gas would be able to remain in the bag for a maximum 2-3 weeks until needed. This is an experiment on the practical applications of locally produced hydrogen, so I hope to be able to follow up any advice by constructing the gas bag and reporting back with the project progress. Any thoughts and advice would be gratefully received! Thanks in advance, Nick
Question by Nick 73 | last reply
All air valves I see move into the high pressure resevoir to release the air and then a spring pushes it back shut. Is it possible to have the valve set up opposite of that? In this valve the valve would open away from the high pressure resevoir and the air would escape the same way the valve is going. Traditionally, the valve moves into the high pressure and the air moves out the opposite way. Any information would be excessively helpful and I appreciate it in advance!
Question by whiteyg0tgame | last reply
G'day I have done the obvious searches, with no luck... So I was wondering.... Does anyone know if stainless steel tubing, has a minimum standard PSI rating? I ask this because today at work I found a hidden stash of old Stainless tubing.... It's cheap because it isn't a carried line anymore.... But the manufacturer or any trace of packaging/PSI is long since gone.... I'm talking $8 AU for a 6metre length of 16mm Stainless with a wall thickness of 1mm, and $12 for a 6m of 30mm .... Is there anyway of telling what PSI rating, it would have from the gauge or internal seam..? I am aware that most stainless for pressure is generally around your 1000PSI+ mark, just wanted to query you knowledgable folk, before using it for high PSI... I would appreciate any help, because I can't hide these lil' babies much longer.... There is about 15 length's of each... Thank in advance... ;)
Topic by Lftndbt | last reply
Ok, so I need to make a compressor that reaches 4500 psi. I live in a farm town and my dad has a tractor so I wondered if I took two identical hydraulic cylinders and filled one with what I was compressing, and the other I powered with the tractors hydraulic system, if I would be able to achieve high pressure and fill tanks, assuming the hydraulic pump and cylinders are rated for that pressure. Or could I just use a hydraulic compressor.
Question by jj.inc | last reply
I'm thinking of cutting the phosphorecent screen off of a CRT and seeing what effects I can produce by shining some high intensity UV light on it. Removing the screan is going to be tricky since the entire CRT is a vacuum on the inside. I know I'm going to have to be really careful and let the pressure in slowly or it could implode and send shards everywhere, but I'm also worried about what dangerous substances might be in the CRT that I could expose myself to. Does anyone know if there is a danger of lead/mercury/etc on the inside of the CRT, and what safety precaussions I can take?
Topic by kramerr
I have my sisters protable aircon here and with the summer on the way I am now finally required to see if I can fix it. But I am somehow lost with this one... Problem: The aircon runs perfectly fine as it is supposed to for about 3 - 4 weeks with usage depending on how hot it is between 4 and 6 hours a day. But without any warning, noise or things like that the compressor simply stops running - or does not start. Noone really noticed what happened but noticed it no longer cools. Fixes so far: During the warranty period, which is over now, the unit was replaced twice by the shop. After that it had to be dropped off at a repair center where the compressor was replaced twice. After each compressor replacement we were told the compressor failed because the unit was not used for weeks and then it had to run for too long - total bogus if you ask me.... Checks from my side: Twice I measured the failed compressors and there was no resistance in the motor anywhere, totally burnt out or a thermo fuse blown I would say. Even after 3 hours of ongoing use the compressor won't get any warmer than my fridge or freezer compressor. So I rule out overheating. Pressure levels seem to be fine too although I can only measure from the service port and can't check hot and cold side seperatly. However: The unit seems to have a timing/safety problem. On my aircons it is impossible to make the compressor start again once it completed a cycle, only once the gas pressure has equalised it will turn on again. If, for example, the aircon just shut off and you set a lower temp on the dial the compressor will jump in right away. Even worse if an additional fan is blowing in the wrong direction, then the unit might turn on again seconds after it shut off. Conclusions so far: I am at the point where I say the starting under still high pressure is causing the motor to stall and then burn out. Only other thing I can think of would be a very badly designed compressor.... Since the compressor is still working (so far) I am now tempted to add a resettable fuse that is just a bit higher than the nominal motor current. Questions: A fuse might help to protect the motor but certainly is not the best solution. Am I correct to assume that the motor will need far more power to start if the system is still under nominal pressure and not equalised yet? If all my assumptions are more or less correct then what would be the best place to add a timer that prevents the compressor from starting again too early? From what I can understand from the electronics inside it seems a set of triacs of thyristors is switching the compressor, but all marking on them are removed ROFL Would have to do some more digging to check for they are driven to draw a better conclusion on the type, might even be tiny SSR's !? ;) At this stage I would consider a simple 555 timer that activates once the compressor is turned off by the electronics. Once running the timer will block the signal to the triacs or whatever is used until the time is run out. Might even go for a simple timer relay if I can find one in my spre parts boxes. If I go for a 555, how can I integrate it ? Can I just keep the start signal for the timer high as long as the compressor runs? How do I "block" the start signal from the electronics to simply reset the timer before it runs out? Currently confusing myself here with the starting, stopping, timing and getting it between electronics and compressor :(
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
. I've setup a home file server and would like to be able to maintain positive pressure in the case to keep dirt out (two dogs in the house). I've cut some filters to fit the fans blowing into the case (front, rear, and side) and installed a "PCI slot" exhaust fan (it and the PSU are the only exhausts). All these are connected to a four-channel controller.. Using the handy-dandy strip-of-paper-in-front-of-a-case-opening method, case pressure is real close to being equal to ambient with all intake fans on high and the exhaust fan on low (700W PSU has two fans that seem to work very well). Even under full-load, BIOS/SpeedFan says the 1.8 GHz Celeron temp stays below 140 degF under full load and idles in the mid-to-high 90s. HDD temps (2x400GB RAID 1 + spare and 40GB boot) stay below 105, except when formatting when they might rise to 110. . I have some clear tubing, so I could rig up a manometer, but don't feel comfortable hooking up a water hose to my computer. Any ideas on a cheap-and-easy way to measure DeltaP (I'm guessing 0-5 inWC would work) without liquids? Could a automotive Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor (I think they have a range close to 0-30 inWC) be adapted?. Someone point me in the right direction and I'll post an Instructable when I figure it out.
Topic by NachoMahma | last reply
I am currently looking to build a system that will allow me to boil medecinal mushroom under pressure. Why you ask? Because studies have shown that high temp under normal pressure will destroy the chitin( the building block of mushroom as opposed to cellulose for plants), but will also destroy most of the medecinal compound. What is needed here is a system that can sustain pressure of around 55 psi minimum. My first guess is to get a pressure vessel that can whitstand more than the required 55 psi in order to limit the risk of failure and explosion. See an example here ; https://www.ebay.com/itm/Alloy-Products-Pressure-Vessel-Tank-135PSI-100-F-w-McDaniel-Gauge/183110238087?hash=item2aa2387f87:g:0DUAAOSwbmFanWiEI do not need more than 1 liter for the pressure vessel but it seams that they don't make them smaller than a gallon. Now the big question is, how do I get the water boiling using one of those tank? I can't just put it on a stove! But if you know of something can could safely reach 55 psi and go on the stove please let me know.Also I was wondering what keeps the pressure inside the container? Does it need a water pump to maintain pressure by pushing more water in the vessel or does it merely builds pressure with steam until it reaches his capacity?Thanks to anyone who's willing to give me some pointer, I truly appreciate.
Question by DominiqueR25 | last reply
I think someone should make an instructable on how to make a homemade Aerogarden. I think this would be a fantastic add. I've heard that if you were to make your own and replace the light it uses with a High Pressure Sodium or High Intensity Discharge it would work a lot faster/better.
Topic by bstite01 | last reply
Can you create electricity with a high pressure stream of water from a gravity feed source?
Question by joshjayne | last reply
Powerisers or Jumping Stilts.....They are a specially designed pair of shoes that you wear that have spring-kind-of-things on them. You can jump six feet high with them and run up to 20 mph! Pretty amazing! But my question is if anybody would know how to build them, or where to get them cheap, or what are the spring parts made of? Because the springs have to be under enormous pressure to withstand the bouncing. So if you know any material that would to the same trick please let me know.Here is a link: here
Topic by TeacherOfTheWays | last reply
Greetings; My projector currently has a high pressure fancy schmancy bulb and when it goes (after another few thousand hours hopefully) I want to replace it with a high power (~100 watt) LED. That's the easy part. I can interface with the projector and convince it there is a real bulb firing up - but I need the optics. Basically, it's a DLP projector so all the light has to be focussed on just under a 2x2cm square hole to hit the colour wheel. The LED in question is already over that size on the diode die alone. There are parabolic reflectors available (I think my best option) but they still have a positive beam spread - I need a shrinking beam. It doesn't have to be perfectly collimated, but I bet that helps. The original lamp definitely has a converging beam but its hard to measure as you can't operate the lamp with the cover open (safely). SO I'm thinking diode >> reflector (like flashlight) >> convex or fresnel lens. I can't get better measurements at the moment for I'm not near the machine and its finnicky to take off the ceiling. Penny for your engineering thoughts? What I need but have never seen commercially: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:CollimatingLensSVG.svg LED to use: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/prime-100w-7000lm-led-emitter-metal-plate-warm-white-42807 dimensions about 5x5.5cm Reflector I have in mind: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/20-100w-silver-plated-plastic-smooth-reflector-58mm-39963 (rather wide beam still) Alternate reflector: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/20-100w-silver-plated-plastic-smooth-reflector-50mm-39974 So...what I need are lens options. Based on my estimations I'll have several cm (up to 10cm) to come up with a good focus distance.
Question by frollard | last reply
So I am not talking a 0.2 psi grid. Anywhere from 1 to 4 psi should work for the little jobs. All you have to do is make feeble wind or water or solar panel or Stirling engines to power the pumps and the pumps are just a couple of ft of tubing! So, 1 psi is nothing! We should be able to make it in all sorts of ways. My air comes from a 3.5 Watt bubble pump until I (or you) figure out how to run a tiny compressor off my 15 Watt solar panel. I have a few demo videos including the one here
Topic by gaiatechnician
Hello my name is Aaron! I am a high school senior from northeastern Kentucky designing a pneumatic system of sorts for a science competition and need some help. I will be building a device that converts gravitational potential energy, from a falling mass, into air pressure (or possibly the movement of air depending on the design) to launch a projectile a specific distance (max distance needed is 8.25 m). What I am thinking about doing is using one double action pneumatic cylinder (DAPC) as a bellow in which a falling mass (max 3.500 kg at a max 90 cm) would strike its piston shaft, creating positive pressure within the system. With that positive pressure another DAPC’s piston would simultaneously strike our projectile sending it airborne in theory. Below there is an illustration of my idea, sorry about the poor quality. So what I need help determining is would this design work before I start buying parts? If so what approximate sizes should the two cylinders be and should they be different sizes to maximize the force exerted on the projectile? If you have any other ideas concerning the design or any questions about the project PLEASE feel free to share!!! Below are some of the design rules that pertain to this project along with some notes in italics about them. Thank you very much for your time in advance! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Description: -Prior to competition, teams will design, construct, and calibrate a single device capable of launching projectiles into a target and collect data regarding device parameters and performance. Design Constraints: -The launching force must be entirely supplied by the gravitational potential energy from a falling mass less than or equal to 3.500 kg. Any device part whose potential energy decreases and provides launch energy is considered part of the mass. The mass may consist of multiple discrete parts, which together count as the total mass. -During each launch, the gravitational potential energy must be converted to air pressure or air movement, which is then used to launch the projectile, either directly (e.g., pop gun style, etc.) or indirectly (e.g., using a pneumatic cylinder to swing an arm, etc.) All device air chambers must start at ambient air pressure and must automatically return to ambient air pressure. -The launching device (would look similar to this with the adjustable angle to accommodate different ranges), including the projectile and all components, must fit within a 75.0 cm x 75.0 cm x 1.00 m box in ready-to-launch configuration, in any orientation chosen by the team. Weights used to stabilize the device must be within the box. -The triggering device (would look something like this except elevated with a mass suspended ready to be released) in not considered part of the device and must not contribute energy to the launch. It must extend out of the launch area, allow for the competitors to remain at least 1.00 m away from the launch area, and does not need to return to the launch area after launch. The triggering device must not pose a danger to anyone due to flying parts or excessive movement outside the launch area. -Teams must provide unmodified tennis, racquet, ping pong, and/or plastic practice golf balls to be used as projectiles. Teams may change projectiles for each launch. -The launching device must be designed and operated in such a way to not damage or alter the floor. -Electrical components are not allowed as part of the device or triggering device. The Competition: -Two targets, designated by small marks on tape on the floor or panels lying on the floor, must be placed in front of and centered on an imaginary line parallel to the launch direction that bisects the launch are. Supervisors are encouraged to place sand, cat litter, or similar substance in the area around the targets to help indicate landing spots. -The targets must be placed in front of the launch area at distances between 2.00 m and 8.00 m (in intervals of 10 cm). A distance of at least 2.00 m must separate the targets. Target distances must not be announced until after impound is over and must be the same for all teams. Room ceiling height should be considered when setting the distances.
Question by ahoback | last reply
.wont idle correctly, under throttle it skips, loses power like it's starving for fuel. I've replaced, idler air control motor, ignition coil, cap and rotor, fuel tank, high volume fuel pump, plugs and wires and fuel pressure regulator. Could it be the distributor itself or does anyone have a solution?
Question by deej333 | last reply
I want to make my car engine look a bit nicer, but i have no clue on where to start... i have read that you can use water at high pressure, but it doesn't seem too safe to me...
Question by SABBaS | last reply
I have found that the expansion of water in the heating solar heating system, creates a very high pressure, and cannot be connected to your existing water heater supply. Some kind of expansion tank is required, or a blow off value. The water supply should be 2 bar or 28 psi. Any direct water heating on this water line will increase the pressure, both in the house system and back up the cold water supply system. What's the cheap way of resolving this
Question by dert
I would like to ask a couple of questions about joining two external water storage tanks. The tanks have a capacity of 1,500 litres each and my plan is to connect the two tanks with one inch pvc piping. The domestic water inlet is low pressure (and that's being kind!) but tank A is usually full. My question is will there be enough pressure in tank A to feed water through the one inch pvc piping and into tank B without using a pump? If you consider the water pressure to be high enough to transfer water from one tank to the next, how many tanks could be connected in this way (I am thinking of four tanks)? The outlet from the water pump feeds 9 washing machines in a small launderette. Sorry about the awful drawing. Thanks for any advice in advance.
Topic by apex2000 | last reply
I broke my ankle and had surgery and have to use crutches which isnt that easy. i need something i can use to be a complete alternative to crutches or to make them a hell of a lot easier.
Question by high voltage | last reply
Ok my fellow creators I am asking for your help. CO2 project is making portable air tools without lugging around air compressor. Have pipe work and connections already done and modified the CO2 adapter to puncture canister when screwed in to release air. The problem I am having is once I attach an air tool it work fine, but after I release trigger air keeps flowing through because of to much pressure. If I read correctly its about 100 psi. Thought about direct connect from tool to air but I would like to be able to switch out tools. Have air tool change connectors at end right now. I do have high pressure shut off valve. Its just trying to regulate air flow with amount of pressure this thing releases. To be honest eventualy may be weaponized. Thanx in advance for your input.
Topic by mkirbysplace | last reply
I want to point out a solar to electric generation concept that has yet to be seen anywhere, even though it originated back during the Carter Administration's ERDA programs of the late 70's. I’m talking about solar power towers that convert solar energy into electricity at the hundreds of mega-watt level. While power towers do exist today, and the world currently does have a handful of them as shown in Fig-1, none use the Brayton Cycle nor can they boast an energy conversion efficiency at the mid to upper thirty percent level. A group of engineers got together at a think tank organization called Sanders Associates in Nashua, N.H., several decades ago, and designed a unique Brayton Cycle, 100 MW solar Power Tower concept for generating electricity. This was accomplished under ERDA (Energy Research Development Administration) who gave us a phase-2 follow-up contract that took our phase-1 design and built a working scale model at the 10 KW level. This model was tested at the Georgia Tech Solar Research Facility and "registered" ~37% electric solar conversion efficiency. The system used ambient air as its working fluid, and was to be located in open-spaced desert regions. Phase-2 was lost to competition using a closed-loop liquid sodium system that boiled water into superheated steam at 900F to run a turbine that generated ~21% overall electric conversion efficiency. Apparently, at that time ERDA would rather haul water out to the desert than use ambient air to generate electricity? The politics of their decision is beyond reason and clashes with improving the world’s development of green technology energy. ERDA shut out our better technological performer and safely locked it away for another day! ERDA's official reason for turning us down: "this technology uses excessively high temperatures (2500F versus 900F) that are dangerous to workman maintaining the equipment". But that was back in the 70’s, maybe we’ve learned to deal with high-temp heat by now? Solar Energy Concept Using Low Pressure Storage Our solar power tower would collect the sun’s energy by locating its ceramic heat exchanger on top of a tall tower as shown in Fig-1. The tower was located in the center of a field of active sun-searching mirrors (heliostats, Figure-2). These mirrors reflected sunlight onto our ceramic honeycomb heat exchanger, producing a concentrated flux intensity level that heated it to around 2500F. At the same time, low pressure fans generating only a few psi pressure would suck the ambient air through the honeycomb, heating it to just under the 2500F and then passing it through energy storage silos which stored the heat down to ~150F. We purposely designed the energy storage charging phase of our hot air system to work at only a few psi above ambient as a safety feature. The sun effectively acts as the combustor of our jet engine or Brayton cycle engine. Once the sun heats the air, it passes through heat exchangers consisting of a labyrinth of underground silos that are temperature segregated. These silos receive our 2300F airflow and cool it down to about 150F, transferring this heat into solid salt containers which turn to liquid once they have absorbed sufficient heat. Figure-3 is a schematic of this underground energy storage facility and shows the airflow being heated by a fully charged set of silos containing liquid salt-bricks. This airflow direction is reversed when we charge the silo’s salt-bricks. The bricks are kept in specially insulated, high pressure silos (located underground for added insulation) that store the heat energy at one atmosphere for later use. These underground silos act as our energy storage batteries, and when needed would discharge their heat energy accordingly into the moving airflow. This energy storage concept permitted the generation of electricity at night and during overcast days. Two sets of storage systems are required for continuous operation. One would be charging at low pressure while the other is discharging at high pressure through the Brayton engine to generate electricity. Electric Energy Generation at High Pressure Electricity would be created by turning an electric generator at high speed. The generator was turned by running a jet engine connected to it. The engine’s combustor for heating the air is effectively the sun, hence the name Brayton cycle for generating our solar electricity (Figure-4). The heat from the molten salt containers would increase the energy of the high pressure air coming from the compressor, and would then force it through a typical turbine that turns this energy into high rotational speed to run the generator and make electricity. Our solar jet engine sucks in ambient air using its compressor, as all jet engines do, and blows it through a series of silos at high pressure whose stacked bricks are held at different temperature levels. We start our airflow through a silo held as low as 150F and work our way up to ~2300F as we pass through our last, hottest silo which acts to complete the effective solar combustion process. This air preheating technique dramatically improves our energy turnover capability and allowed us to convert solar energy into electricity at near 37% efficiency. During our electric energy generation phase, the silos of our Brayton system requires operating at many atmospheres of pressure just as in any jet engine combustor using petroleum-based JP-fuel.
Topic by RT-101 | last reply
Cheap, cordless drills are amazing tools. Take one apart and attach a speed controller, you got a motor for a robot. Also, they have good high torque motors that can be used for all sorts of things. A $50 RC transmitter and a receiver make good remote uses, such as remote detonation. More useful tools are pneumatic cannons. I've used them from pressure testing to damage testing. WHat are your useful, unconventional tools?
Topic by starwing123 | last reply
'I have a whole bunch of "expansion tanks" that I would like to use for something but don't know exactly what to make from them. They are about 12" wide maybe 15" high, spherical, have a bicycle style filler valve on one side, a threaded hole on the other (approximately 1" male pipe thread) and they hold 12 liters. They have a rubber bladder inside. the original use was as an accumulator on a cooling system. Other than cutting it in half and using it for a small grill I don't have any other ideas. They are rated for 3 bar of pressure (about 45 PSI) working pressure. The exact thing I have is in this PDF. http://www.reflex.de/reflex/pdf_engl/PI0106e_4_9571018_reflex_engl.pdf
Question by aaronlittle77 | last reply