How do I build a natural bee hive
Question by Diana LaBedz | last reply
Do any of you woodworking wizards or experts know how to make a box joint template. I need to replace many of my Honey Bee Hive Supers (boxes) due to Bears, time & weather. The wood is pine and about seven-eighths thick , five and three quarters tall or high, twenty inches long for the front and back, the sides are sixteen and one quarter long by five and three quarters tall or high. This forms a box that holds ten extracting frames for the honey in combs. It weighs forty pounds when full of honey comb wax and honey. I like this size because it doesn't brake your back like the standard one that weigh in at eighty pounds when full! Although I use both sizes. Any ideas how to make this template will be deeply appreciated. I also have a multiple dado blade setup, so I can cut a pretty wide dado at one pass on the table saw. Thanks. Triumphman.
Topic by triumphman | last reply
I already have wood glue and i want it to be a kenya top bar hive thanks
Question by the troll king 324 | last reply
Hi , I have placed a rhombus clearer board above the super, yesterday. After inspecting It today I have found that the super was nearly empty , with about 40 bees remaining. Thinking the best , I decided to leave it on , but have now read that if you leave it on for more than 12 hours the bees with work out how to get in again. Should i take it off now or in the morning? (its 16:53 GMT now) . I apologise for my incompetence , I am pretty new at this ^^ any answers would be appreciated.
Question by juicymoose | last reply
Hi! I've got some bee hives. I have to change their place. Here, somebody told me that, I couldn't carry them direct to the place 50 metters far. They told,, if I have to carry, I only can carry them maximum 1 metter per day or, I have to carry them minimum 6 kms far, and atfer a day I can take them to the place where I want. So, now, how I have to do this difficult work. Is there any else way? I need this information as soon as possible please. Thank you very much. Devrimm
Question by Devrimm | last reply
Hi to All - I have a problem with an old farm house that has some sort of opening into which a bee colony has called home as well. I am really not wanting to simply kill the hive, as I know of the importance of bees, but I can't have them stay much longer as the colony/hive is growing in size. Does anyone have any ideas on how to try to "encourage" the hive to move out without being destructive?
Topic by ATPinCanada | last reply
Hi all, Question is, where is the best place to put a beehive in my backgarden. The layout is simple: Backof my house is 5.5Meters wide and to the back of the garden its 12Meters long. I have a small shed in the back of the garden and behind that are the parkingspaces for cars. The parkinglot is about 20Meters in deep towards the next garden en the width is about 60meters. There are no trees pressent, only some low bushes and a lot of flower patches all over the place. Can somebody enlighten me with some info on this subject? I want to make my own honey in the near future, i had some lessons about keeping bees a long long time ago and never did anything with it. So now i've got a house with a nice little garden and i thought, HEY, why not ;-) Thnx!
Question by AriedeB | last reply
Okay first how to i get swarms i can only get one or two swarms two how long till i can first havest honey note i will be using a tbh or top bar hive and i am alabama it is hot all the time down here andthird there is a false back or something how do i use it?
Question by the troll king 324
I know this site used to be quite a hive of activity, however, would I be right in saying it is declining in popularity, ie instructables posted and volume of people viewing them? If so, where are people going instead? Any stats to prove or disprove?
Topic by MODDEDbyBACTERIA | last reply
I have a hive of bees in my yard, that moved into an old cabinet, and i do not try to force them into brood boxes, because they are Really well established. but i still want to be able to get some honey from them once in awhile. what is the best method for extracting honey from natural comb?
Question by cyc4015 | last reply
Memorizing Method This was originally going to be my first instructable but I figured it would be better off as a forum thingy. This is a method that can help you remember up to 10 items. I learned this from one of my teachers and find that it is quite effective. All you need for this is a brain, the names of 10 items, very little rhyming ability, and some imagination. Rhyming words that that you need to know... ONE rhymes with BUN TWO with TREE THREE with TREE FOUR with DOOR FIVE with HIVE SIX with STICKS SEVEN with HEAVEN EIGHT with GATE NINE with LINE TEN with HEN How do you apply these rhymes to remembering stuff you ask, hereâs how. With an example... say the ten things you need to remember are, computer, a grenade, frog, cow, ninja, thumbtack, phone, cereal, Kansas, and CD. Computer is your #1 item and BUN rhymes with ONE, soooooo, picture a computer in a hamburger bun STOP! Visualize this image for a moment, and then move on. A grenade is your #2 item, TWO rhymes with SHOE so picture a grenade in a shoe STOP! Visualize this image for a moment, and then move on. THREE rhymes with TREE, so visualize a frog in a tree or a tree frog STOP! Visualize this image for a moment, and then move on. FOUR rhymes with DOOR, word #4 is cow, so picture a cow stuck in a door or something like that, STOP! Visualize this image for a moment, and then move on. FIVE rhymes with HIVE, like a bee hive, so visualize a ninja fighting bees or something. Okay, #5 is the last ex. I am going to explain, you should be able to figure out your own images for the rest.
Topic by wingman246 | last reply
I was watching an episode of "how it's made", they were covering commercial tomato's. The plants were grown in a large building and the plants were pollinated by a in house beehive. The hive was kept separate from the plants, but the bee's had access through some tubing and a hole in the wall. Everything I've read suggests that having bee's pollinate your indoor plants is a bad idea. I'm pretty sure most of these comments are coming from hobbyists, but the claim is that the bees get lost indoors and usually die as a result. Can anyone enlighten me on the subject?
Question by Spaceman Spiff | last reply
I'm not even sure if my chimney needs to be swept, but I've got a cord or so of seasoned firewood and a fireplace, I just want to make sure everything is in good order before I start running my fireplace regularly. I've got a basement and main floor fireplace, both share the same chimney and both are the original brick fireplaces built into the house in in I'm guessing the 50's or 60's The instructables hive mind knows just about everything, so what can you tell me?
Question by armourkris | last reply
This weekend Eureka! Factory and the Hive makerspace at Tampa's John F. Germany library will be participating in the Deconstruction hackathon. Our project this year is a literary hack. We are asking for random sentences from the imaginations of the general public. We will collect sentences from now until 7PM EST on Saturday, November 15th. We will spend the following 24 hours wrangling the collected contributions into some kind of narrative form. It will be a fun experiment. For more information and to contribute visit the Instructable here and leave a sentence in the comments. We will post the results on Sunday evening. Thanks!
Topic by Chuck Stephens | last reply
Gudday! (Yep, I'm Australian) and Ahoy! (Yup, I live on a boat too). Hoping to mine the collective hive-mind here and get some advice. The situation: I need some solar panels that are six inches (or smaller) that give the maximum output so that I can charge some batteries. My question: do any of you kind folk have any advice on what solar panels I could assess and where can I get them from?Thanks in advance for any thoughts, tips or advice that you offer.
Question by HaremCinema
It has to be portable and reasonably compact, since clients don't want said items leaving the building. Chemical etches are probably no-go. A cut-out mask and sandblasting works but isn't very portable and you've got the noise of the compressor. Ideally what I'd like is something sort of like CNC where an image can be loaded, and the machine then takes over the engraving process. Let's say .25 mm deep. I have some thoughts but wanted to put it out into the hive mind. I'm a 'keep it simple' guy, so if there's an easy way to do this, I'd like to hear about it.?
Question by caledonian | last reply
I need to run some cables across my bedroom ceiling. I live in the basement, so the walls and floor are concrete. The ceiling is that cheap wood-veneer paneling you see in RVs. I'd poke it under the ceiling panels, but given what I know of the demented arrangement of floor joists in this house, I'd have to pull down the entire ceiling and start drilling holes. I'm after something like electrical raceway, but cheaper. I want it inconspicuous, but not costing me $25 to cover cable across 15' of ceiling. Ideas, O wise Hive Mind?
Question by CameronSS | last reply
You may have seen my last question (I'm not counting on it), but if you haven't, I should tell you that I am creating a planet that can support life. I am creating an insect-like creature that flies and swims via silent propulsion. Could an animal develop a method of that propulsion? I am thinking of a couple of methods in particular. It could be MHD- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetohydrodynamic_drive It could be like the Dyson fan-http://electronics.howstuffworks.com/gadgets/home/dyson-bladeless-fan.htm I have added my sketch and a scale of the animals, as well as additional information about their behavior. I may have some terms wrong (Like hive-mind), so if I do, please .tell me so I can correct that.
Question by eulaliaaaa! | last reply
Good day,I am trying to find a moisture and temperature meter (possibly in one). It will be a used in a beehive. During the winter the bees cluster together to keep warm. Warm air rises up and gets in contact with the cold ceiling. It cools off and releases moisture. The water then starts dripping down and creates a mess of wet bees and mold. Opening the hive during the winter is not recommended till temperatures get back over 40F. Proper ventilation is possible to achieve through the design of the beehive but i would like to know the level of moisture and temperature if i was to just walk next to the beehive. I have seen a few instructibles about moisture meters but they are geared more toward soil moisture. I need it for the air. The system could be powered by a rechargeable battery and a solar panel - i can take care of that myself. Thanks.
Topic by PavelA12 | last reply
Ok, guys I am planning my next house. I want to build a metal single level kit house over a basement.Like most of you, I can't leave well enough alone. I am always thinking about change, i.e. put up a ceiling fan, add recessed lighting, drop a new ethernet line where I need it, etc. So in thinking about the walls and ceiling of the new house I want your input.First I was thinking of making the interior wall height 10', then I can install a drop ceiling at what every level I want. Later, i can change the drop ceiling at will. Above the drop ceiling, on the underside of the rafters, insulate with rigid foam insulation (maybe the top side of the rafters?).Next the walls. I plan to spray foam insulation between the 24" studs. Drywall seems to be too permanent. What could I put up, durable enough for the occasional bumps when installing furniture, but could be removed if something needs to be added behind it? I have a thought about putting up a shelving system, but that wouldn't work on every wall. Again, I appeal to the hive mind for suggestions.Help a DIY addict,Ralph
Question by Manassasralph | last reply
Scientists studying small insects need ways to assign a unique ID to each bug. Two of the most common methods they use are A) manually painting small color patterns onto the thorax (and sometimes head and abdomen) of the insect, and B) gluing a small tag(number, qr code, RFID chip) to the thorax. These techniques are very effective, but SUPER TIME CONSUMING. It can take a trained student about 5 minutes to paint each ant or bee (and they need to paint thousands). I want to help them out by decreasing the amount of man power needed to give a unique ID to each insect. My thoughts were to make a device where an insect could walk into a tube of designated size (exact bee space at the entrance of a bee hive for instance), have its presence sensed, maybe prevent it's forward or backward motion for a short while, and have a device that attaches a tag or paints a unique pattern onto the insect. You can see some of my initial thoughts in the scanned picture below. HIGH RES HERE My question is about good places to start in building this contraption, or if anyone has good or simple . The thresholds are quite small for the insects (bees are maybe 1/8-1/4 inch wide), and we need to be exact where we attach the tag so as not to hurt the poor critters or alter their behavior. I am handy with an arduino and simple servos and can incorporate computer vision from an android phone into the mix with the ADK First elaborate or super cool response gets gifted a 3 month pro membership! (that lovely ant pic used as an example is by amazing photographer Alex Wild, the other is when you google "honeybee RFID")
Question by blorgggg | last reply
muddywaters asked a question seeking cheap, possibly DIY, home building. There are lots of great answers to that post; some of the most interesting mentioning prefab and shipping container structures. I recently had reason to read Phoenix, AZ's main newspaper, which had an article entitled “Rehabbing PreFab”, discussing a local project at Taliesin West architecture school. Students are exploring the PreFabricated homes, with Modern architecture styling. Definitely a new take on PreFab. Exciting work, particularly the shipping container mod-mods. Doing a quick search turns up the website busyboo which has many articles regarding contemporary exploration of highly artistic PreFab units. The price of these designs is quite different from traditional prefab homes, partly a reflection of the limited market and partly the cache styling. What do y'all think? Borrowing design ideas from these MODpreFAB companies, perhaps a DIY opportunity! $$$ Only fools buy retail $$ wholesale $ Those who can, DIY! The Arizona Republic article mentions the following companies experimenting with MODpreFAB: (Reproduced from print edition) ASUL: Phoenix AZ company that sells kits for onsite assembly (~$100/sq ft.) asul.us Hive Modular: Minneapolis, MN company rpoducing affordable modern homes. hivemodular.com Kithaus: California company offering small, connectable components ($25,000+ / 100 sq ft) kithaus.com LivingHomes: California developer (~$230 / sq ft) livinghomes.net Marmol Radziner: Los Angeles, CA company builds in factory with most appliances installed, then breaks apart sections for shipping (~$200 - $300 / sq ft) marmolradzinerprefab.com Method Homes: Seattle, WA company offering energy efficient prefabs (~$160+ / sq ft) methodhomes.net mkDesigns: Based on Instructables member! Michelle Kaufman design ($360,000) mkd-arc.com Mod Box: Phoenix, AZ project designed 10 ft sq cube space (~$35 - $60k / cube) v100modbox.com Modern Cabana: San Francisco, CA company building small, green component rooms (~$20,000 / unit + shipping and handling...) moderncabana.com Modern Shed: Seattle, WA company selling rectangular spaces ($11.2 – 81k) modern-shed.com Mod.Fab: Scottsdale, AZ project exploring a cool, transportable home (~$120k / 432 sq ft) taliesin.edu/pages/MODFAB.htm Rocio Romero: Missouri based designer of kit homes, some assembly required ($24,950 / 625 sq ft) rocioromero.com Upcycle Living: Phoenix, AZ company repurposing shipping containers into ModFab components ($100+ / sq ft) upcycleliving.com weeHouse: Minneapolis, MN company creating factory made, small homes (~$79k / 435 sq ft) weehouse.com
Topic by CrLz | last reply
So, I'm like 500th something in the world in RockBand. To Prove it, here are all the songs I've gold starred. The Lines mean that I didn't gold star the next song(s). Like for example, I gold starred the first 17 songs. I will list 17 songs, then make a line. The songs with the "*" next to them are Fc's only a few :(Say it Ain't so By WeezerCreep By RadioheadI think I'm paranoid By GarbageWanted Dead or Alive By Bon JoviIn Bloom By NirvanaGimme Shelter By The Rolling StonesWave of Mutilation By (the most overrated band ever)The PixiesCelebrity Skin By HoleMississippi Queen By MountainHere it Goes Again By OK GoSuffragette City By David BowieMain Offender By the HivesMaps By the Yeah Yeah YeahsReptillia By The StrokesEpic By Faith No MoreBlitzkreig Bop By The RamonesShould I Stay or should I go? By The ClashBlack Hole Sun By SoundgardenThe Hand that Feeds By Nine Inch NailsSabotage By The Beastie BoysParanoid By Black SabbathDani California By The Red Hot Chili PeppersAre you gonna be my girl? By JetWelcome Home By Coheed & CambriaVasoline By The Stone Temple PilotsWhen You Were Young By The KillersGreen Grass and High Tides By The OutlawsEnter Sandman By MetallicaBONUS SONGSPleasure (Pleasure) By Bang CamaroBrain Power By FreezepopDownloaded SongsCharlene (I'm Right Behind You)* By Stephen and the ColbertsDirty Little Secret By The All American RejectsFranklin's Tower By The Grateful DeadHysteria By MuseI Need a Miracle By The Grateful DeadInterstate Love Song By The Stone Temple PilotsLimelight By RushMoving to Seattle By The MaterialNatural Disaster By The Plain White T'sPain and Pleasure* By Judas PriestPromised Land By VesuviusShe's a Handsome Woman By Panic! At the DiscoTen Speed (Of God's Blood and Burial)* By Coheed & CambriaYou've Got Another Thing Comin'* By Judas PriestIf you Gold Starred more than me (There's gotta be someone on Instructables), then make a forum topic, and gimme a link. Or you can just make a comment. To Make the lines used dashes (-).To make small text make 2 commas (,) the text, then 2 commas again.==Some terms that might be helpful:==-------------------------------------------------If someone uses the term "FC" it means "Full Combo". Full Combo means that you didn't overhit (look below), and you didn't miss any notes.If someone uses the term "Overhit", it means that you hit the drum where you don't have to.A drum fill, is something that looks like long notes that go across the "guitar neck". It is also known as the "Overdrive Activator". When you see the long notes, you have to hit at least three notes, and hit the green (or red if you play on lefty) pad when you see the green "bulb" pop up at the end of the notes.Overdrive is something that makes your multiplier go higher (and count by two). For example, if you have a multiplier of 4 (the highest) and you go into Overdrive, your multiplier goes up to 8. 1 makes 2, 2 makes 4, and 3 makes 6.Your multiplier multiplies the number of points. If you have a multiplier of 1, then each note will be 25. 2, is 50 each note, 3 is 75 each note, and 4 is 100 points.Again, if you have any questions, just ask.Some things you might
Topic by Flumpkins | last reply
Hello Everyone, I've got quite the project that I am undertaking and I am looking for a bit of advice. This will be my very 1st forray into long-distance wifi, as well as off-grid power resources, so Im biting off quite a bit at once! I have a friend who has been helping me with the research who has a much firmer understanding of both electricity and hardware, but he will be out of town for the next week and I would like to get a bit of progress on this while he is gone. SO, I shall consult the hive mind known as the internet. Alright, this project consists of creating an uplink between a remote shed, and a home in a nearby city, with a broadband connection. The rub, there is 10,000 ft mountain range in between the two. We have a site were we can put a repeater node at approx. 10,000 ft elevation, that has wonderful line-of-sight to both locations. However, this site is very remote, and will have to run off the grid obviously. The distances are as follows: Home to repeater: 3.96 miles (thats with Google Earth following the contours of the mountain/valley, not sure how to make it just do a straight angled shot, so thats a rough estimate) Repeater to Remote shed: 2.68 miles (same issue) Background environment info: shed has generator + 60w solar array with 3-4 deep discharge lead RV batteries at 7400 feet. Has spring fed running water, which could be utilized for power as well, as obviously its always running. Repeater location is at 10k, as stated. Moderate to high winds very likely (data from peaks of similar altitude in the general area show gusts ranging from 40-60 mp/h, temperature ranges of averaging 7 to 90+ for a the later part of July and August (F). Obviously, its very possible to get soemething below this, though the lowest Ive ever seen at the shed has been -15 (f), I would say most winters we could get a few nights that see temps below 0, but not often. Equipment Ideas: So to pull this off, we have come up with two ideas for the network equipment, which I shall discuss 1st, then I will show you what we have come up with for power. - Network - Repeater Node: rb433 wireless access point ($99.00) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=43 with 2 r52h mini PCI wifi chips ($59.00 x2) http://www.routerboard.com/pricelist.php?showProduct=69 2 8-18 inch satelite dishs converted for long-range WIFI use (20.00 x2) http://www.engadget.com/2005/11/15/how-to-build-a-wifi-biquad-dish-antenna/ OR instead of a rb433, we could use 2 WRT54G Linksys routers like this. (I also have 2 BEF 801.11b routers that are legacy to the WRT54G. I would like to use this if possible! http://hackaday.com/2005/08/23/how-to-greyhat-wifi-repeater/ Now, I know that this later choice would increase power use by about double. From what I have been able to find, the WRT's would at anywhere from 4.2w to 8w of power. Anyways, I like this later choice because it would be significantly cheaper for the equipment, but do you have any other ideas? I know that the RB433 would work great, but its rather expensive all said and done after I throw up the power as well. Plus, if it takes a lighting strike, its out of commission, and 2 cheap linksys routers are much cheaper to replace! Anyways any input here would be great! - Power so power to the repeater node is the real challenge. We crunched the numbers and came up with something almost exactly the same as below: From the datasheets, a routerboard will draw between 6-10W. So design for 10W. Over 24 hours you will need 10Wx24h = 240 Watt.Hours of power. For 7 days, you need 7x240Wh = 1680 Watt.Hours. A single, large deep cycle 110Ah 12V battery gives you about 1320 Watt.Hours of power, almost meeting the requirement. Now, to look at the solar panels: A good rule of thumb is to install 6 times the wattage that is drawn by the device. This is because only about 8 hours a day in sunny weather gives you maximum power output from a solar panel. So the other 16 hours you need to draw from the battery. (So already you need 3 times the wattage drawn by the device to break even each day) To generate 1 full day of extra battery power per sunny day, you need another 3 times the wattage. This is how we arrive at 6 times. 6 x 10W = 60W. So at a minimum I would recommend 60W of solar panels. That qoute comes from http://diywifilink.wordpress.com/ and http://mybroadband.co.za/vb/showthread.php?179547-Advice-needed-Setting-up-wifi-repeater-11km which is a project from a guy in South Africa almost exactly the same as the one that we are working on. The numbers came out to be about the same (Though they were a bit different when we calculated for the WRT54G option.) so, 60w of power generation to keep a decent charge on a battery. Now, we have a 60w panel at the shed, which is rather large to take up to 10,000 ft and place on the side of a mountain, and given the consistent wind element up there, we are hoping to do a hybrid system of both solar and wind. This is where things get tricky. A perfect balance, or even a more wind heavy balance would be great, such as 30-40w wind 20-30w solar. That keeps the panel size down, and uses a power source that runs 24/7. A Faroun Savonius wind turbine seems like the best system, but the controller to prevent overcharging etc is where I get nice and lost, having breached into very unknown territory. https://www.instructables.com/id/Faroun-Savonius-Wind-Turbine/ http://www.fieldlines.com/board/index.php/topic,129060.html This looked at 1st like a good, cheap system to use a controller board for the wind, but my question is would the controller board that comes with these solar panels (see below) work for both. That below is the setup that we use more or less at the shed, with some mods, such as a better alternator. http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=11298029&search;=solar&Mo;=5&cm;_re=1_en-_-Top_Left_Nav-_-Top_search⟨=en-US&Nr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Sp;=S&N;=4001192&whse;=BC&Dx;=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk;=Text_Search&Dr;=P_CatalogName:BC&Ne;=4000000&D;=solar&Ntt;=solar&No;=3&Ntx;=mode+matchallpartial&s;=1&topnav;=&Nty;=1&s;=1 So, can a small, 30-50w wind turbine and generator be built, with a small solar array to power this thing? I dont care if we have some down time, this is primarily going to be used as a system to get a weather station with web cam to send in hourly photos during the peak hours. I can have the system at the shed shutdown automatically using some cron jobs in linux during the evening to conserve power. When there are people at the shed, we would like to be able to get a good enough wifi connection to use a wifi device (such as an android phone or ipod) to use as a voip phone in essential communication. The teenagers aren't going to be chatting with their friends for hours, but we would like to be able to put a short call through in case something goes wrong, or we just need to get ahold of someone at the shed or in the city. Next the equipment at the shed should be comparable to the repeater node, sans 1 antenna and just some low power embedded system. We would like to get a webcam and weather station hooked up on this end, but that can wait for upgrades later if needed, if power doesnt allow it. like I said, a simple water turbine could be used (something similar to the wind turbine perhaps?) and even another wind turbine could be built to add extra power dedicated to running any system at the shed, though I dont think the wind is quite regular enough to be viable here, but if its cheap, we could throw it on anyways. equipment at the home in the city is simple, just use an extra laptop or desktop we have laying around to be server/router, hook up antenna to this, broadcast connection, run the weatherstation/webcam web server off of this. So, thats the plan, but load of input is needed to try to come up with this. We hope to try to keep this sub $1000.00, but the budget could go higher. This is DIY at its finest! Thanks in advance for you help!
Topic by kydan | last reply