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Small VERY Hot Plate

I am looking for someone who can design for me to make or make for me a specialized hot plate. I need it to be small like 3" by 2" and to get very hot as much as 700 degrees is desired. I want the power source to be 400watts. I know this seems hard but my reasoning is that the smaller size means higher temps with less wattage. I would use this as a hot plate that evaporates liquid from an airstream as it passes by - a dryer if you like. I would use 2 to cause the air to have to pass both in a zig-zag path. I would like to have a solid surface so eventually I see the plate encased in ceramic but for this it need only be metal. Can you help? Contact me here on the site to discuss more details Coog

Topic by coogrrr    |  last reply


Powering Peltier Plates

Hey guys,So, I just got a Peltier plate, a device that gets very hot on one side while very cold on the other. It requires 90 watts of power. I was just curious what would happen if you powered it by USB or 9v battery. I found this tutorial which uses USB, however, I doubt it gets to its maximum coolness potential. Also, if I used a 9v, would that drain the battery in a matter of minutes, or even damage the plate?Thank you.

Topic by Joe426    |  last reply


I want to make a tiny hot plate

I am trying to make a hot plate about the size of a quarter to 50 cent piece. I am going to wire in a dimmer switch for temp control, I would like even heat so I dont know if nichrome is the way to go-I'd love to use some sort of flat type resistor but havent found anything on line that seems fesible. Also I would like to use a plug in power suppy. Any ideas?

Topic by yoss974    |  last reply


is it safe to turn a kettle into a hot plate for boiling solutions?

Hello, i recently realised that my kettle, which consists of just a a kettle shaped container with a hotplate down the bottom, quickly reaches tempuratures in excess of 100 degrees celcius, and so i have considerd getting a second hand one or a scrap one at the local dump shop, to use in my chlorate cell, to periodically boil the solution once per hour to destroy the hypochlorite and re-absorb the chlorine gas which would normally be lost. i intend to remove the little hot plate! i also want to use it, along with some kind of speed controller, or lamp ambience controller or whatever they are called (lamp dimmer), to make a variable tampurature hot plate, using a heat dependant autoresetting circuit breaker to ensure the temp doesnt go above what i want it at. what i need to know, is  it safe, not for me, but for the kettle, to operate for short periods of time without turning off? or would the resistance coil burn out? by that i mean 5 -7 minutes, considering its normal run time is at about 1-2 minutes. or can it safely run on indefinately, with the only damages occuring being melting of wires and the base?

Question by oldmanbeefjerky    |  last reply


Does PC cooler's(FAN's) heatsink conducts electricity and heat?

I WOULD LIKE THAT IT CONDUCTS HEAT BUT NOW ELECTRICITY SO I CAN PUT helix in that that will be heater!!!

Topic by h0meIandsecurity  


Making a dry sauna heater with parts from a 120v hot plate

I have a small closed in shower (31" X 31") and have sealed the 6" opening over the door. It makes for a great steam room. However, I love very hot dry saunas. I have been wondering if I could make a small heater placed in the corner with one or more single burner hot plates and stones. I am wondering if this could be done safely if the AC lines are totally protected. I could easily turn of the power when showering. I welcome any feedback.

Topic by hywmiles    |  last reply


Thermal conductivity of two welded plates?

I am in the process of building a wood stove (details on FE Blog) mainly from scrap metal, but I have got it into my head that a stainless steel hotplate would be nice. I wanted one 10mm thick, round with a diameter of 390mm. As it turns out 6mm seems to be a bit of a threshold for stainless, and anything over has to be laser cut or similar and is loads more expensive. Like £80 is the cheapest I can find it.  Anyway, one solution would be to buy two 5mm thick plates and weld round the circumference - that seems like it would work out quite a lot cheaper. The question is how would the thermal conductivity be affected by the tiny gaps which would inevitably remain in the centre (the two plates will never be completely flat)? Is there some kind of thermal paste that could mitigate this, which is very heat resistant? If so how would it deal with being superheated by the welding, and would it contaminate the weld? And lastly - this got me to thinking about copper bottomed pans - how do they bond the copper to the stainless steel (google is failing me- or I am failing google with poor search terms)?? So 3 sort of related questions: 1.Welded plate- big conductivity problem or naught to worry bout? 2.Super high temp. thermal past  - would it help? 3.How are pans copper bottomed anyway?? Thanks, Bongo

Question by bongodrummer    |  last reply



Heating options for hot bueing steel?

After moving house I am still living in a big mess of boxes that need to be unpacked, kitchen stuff be sorted and and so on... But with a big garage and proper workspace at hand it is also time to consider my options on how to create my tinker space. I would like set up a small forge later on if the landlord gives permission and that means bot blueing steel again. Which brings me to the problem of heating the nitrates :( My last setup was not only on a different continent but also totally oversized and powered by three big gas burners. This time I would like to go a bit smaller so I can use it inside the workshop. Was thinking of a max of around 8kg of nitrates that need to be heated in a safe way to melting point. Problem with that stuff is that it is not only highly corrosive but also requires quite some time and energy to melt. Using gas on such a small scale seems far to dangerous uless I include baffle plates and add several safe guards, so I would like to avoid the open flame approach here. Only reasonabe alternative that comes to my mind is electric heating. Did some small test last night outside :( Used a 2000W electric hotplate and an old stainless steel pot with about 1kg of nitrate in it. After 40 minutes there was still no real melting happening despited the entire thing padded and covered in glass wool. 20 minutes later I turned it all off and once cooled I found that only about 1cm of solid nitrate was at the bottom. If I would use a suitable container of let's say 20x10x10 cm as a small melting vessel: Could it be sufficient to use a 2000W nichrome heating element (with temp controller of course) in an insulated, forge like setup to melt the nitrate ina reasonable amount of time and be able to keep it that way once the steel is dropped in? Problem is the entire garage is already setup with power outlets and they all go to a single 10 amp breaker. I could max it out with 2400W but for obvious reasons would prefer to have some juice left for lights and other uses. If anyone here already made such a thing it would be great to hear how you solved the heating problem without waiting half a day for the stuff to melt.

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Building a convection model for plate tectonics and ocean currents

I'm building a model to show our museum visitors how convection works related to plate tectonics.  (It can also be used for ocean currents.)  I'm stuck on the heating source, though, because we cannot have open flames. The model is a cell of water, about 0.5" wide X 10" long X up to 8" high (depending on water depth). I would to implement some type of circuit with a resistor that produces heat at the bottom, and inside the cell, and battery powered.  At the top at either end would be ice cubes, to cool the water so it falls back down and recirculates.  To see the currents, the ice cubes have blue food coloring, and I use a long pipette to inject coloring at the bottom near our current heat source, and mug of hot water. I'm having trouble finding information on: - what type of resistor (how many ohms?, anything specialized for being submerged?) - how large a battery/ies for a 4-hour day on the floor (rechargeable, of course) - other steps to prevent corrosion It will need an on/off switch and a battery connector, too, of course... I'm sure I may be missing some other important things to consider, too. Any feedback would be great. Thanks~ -Adam-

Topic by adam.blankenbicker    |  last reply


Where is the induction kettle or hot water system?

No modern kitchen these days is complete without at least a single induction cooktop.Convient to even place on the table to keep things warm but also nice to have 4 or 6 "hotplates" to cook on that are actually not getting hot at all.When it comes to efficiency induction cooking tops all others as no heat is wasted.Which brings me to the point...A single cooktop goes now often for well under 50 bucks.Although the base might end up slightly higher than a normal kettle I fail to see why we don't have induction kettles in our kitchen.Why wait 12 minutes to have the thing boil if you can do it cheaper and faster?Way more convinient too as there is no pesky contacts and heating elements anymore, no failure due to leaks either...But what really got me wondering is the hot water systems or heating options like prefered in Europe.Here you have a central "boiler" so to say and water circulates through valves into finned radiators, usually located under windows.We have oil filled radiators of this kind as free standing units that are now being phased out because they waste too much energy with their heating elements.Same story for just hot water :(On demand systems are getting more popular now outside Europe but still the common solution is to have a few hundret liters of water in a tank that is kept hot no matter how much of it we use.Be is gas or electric both types have their drawbacks and to get ahead of the corrosion that always kills them we now opt for expensive stainless steel tanks...Using induction it would be very easy to have a fully sealed tank and to actually only heat what needs to be heated without wasting too much energy.The "heating" element could be just a steel plate inside the tank with no connections to the outside.The gap between wall and element doubles to make the water circulate.And changing from a fixed timer to a temperatur control system to turn the induction element on and off is not hard either.Do you have an induction based hot water system, heater or maybe kettle already?Would love to see it...

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Intel PIII processor GND and voltage pins?

 I am making the hot plate found at: www.instructables.com/id/Hot-Plate/ I want to find the 'voltage' and 'gnd' pins for my Pentium 3 SL4MF processor. The datasheet at: download.intel.com/design/PentiumIII/datashts/24526408.pdfshows the pinout, but I can't figure out which pins to connect the wires to. Please Help. Kabir

Question by mhkabir    |  last reply


Smoker Grills

Looking over the DIY's for smoker grills. Why not use your Weber Charcoal Grill with the hot plate ? Slots at the bottom can provide access to hot plate thermostat. You would need to make a tool, rod with end fitting to engage the thermostat knob. cord can exit the grill through one of the bottom slots.

Topic by phantom9    |  last reply


Help me to find me Ground and Voltage on my Cpy ...

Hello Guys , i need your help .  I want made that : (Hot plate ) https://www.instructables.com/id/Hot-Plate/?ALLSTEPS And i have a Cpu but i dont know where is the Ground and Volt pin . information about me Cpu : Intel® Celeron® Processor in the 478-Pin Package Datasheet : ftp://download.intel.com/support/processors/celeron/sb/29074802.pdf If anybody can help me =D

Question by draknars    |  last reply


please help with terra cotta smoker Answered

Instead of using a hot plate for a heat source for a terra cotta smoke rwould it work to use a large diameter electric stove burner instead. i realize the stove burner is 220 volt but would it work hooked up to 110 i can get free stoves it's expensive to buy a good hot plate to take apart

Question by batman1298    |  last reply


Will a magnet disrupt the flow of electricity through a nearby wire? Answered

I made a removable connection in a project I was working on by soldering the two wires to metal plates and hot glueing magnets onto the plates. This way the metal plates can be brought together and the magnets will hold the plates together so that there is a good connection but I was wondering if the magnets would create magnetic fields that will mess up the flow of electricity. I posted a picture showing the two plates that form the connection I am talking about.

Question by Ke-Bob    |  last reply


Anyone can help me?i need to know what material which conduct heat but insulate electricity?

Im making this hot plate..im using a 600w and 240v heating element..when i first switch it on..without any girdle or plate on top of the heating element, it was going smoothly..then as i attach the girdle or plate on top of the heating element..suddenly disaster strike..my workshop power supply was trip and i know something wrong with my hot plate or electrical cooker. I then started to trouble shoot what is the problem. Guess what, i made a mistake in buying a girdle. The girdle that i bought was an ordinary girdle use for people selling burger at the stall to cook the beef and patty. Obviously, that girdle was not made for electrical cooker. It is made for heat induction cooker which use fire to heat up the girdle from the bottom. Now in order to complete my cooker, I need help from all of you guys which is more expert in this matter. Are there any materials which I can use for making the hot plate?Material which can conduct heat but does not conduct electricity. If you guys have some idea, please do help me. Thank you for reading this and thank you in advance for those who help me out.

Question by trojanator    |  last reply


Removing and capping a wall lamp with live wires

 i just removed two wall lamps that were hot wired directly into the wall.  I capped the two wires, put a plate over the box, and then filled in the indentation.  Is this an acceptable way to do this, or should I have disabled the hot wire?

Question by johngoogle    |  last reply


Homemade Cryolipolysis revisited - is cool plate and vaccum technology instead of ice packs more reliable?

Http://home.howstuffworks.com/refrigerator6.htm Using the Peltier effect via an aluminum plate, would it be possible to create a homemade cryolipolysis machine? The method cryolipolysis uses to kill fat cells is this: The vacuum pulls the adipose tissue away from the body's core along with the surrounding skin folds to prevent the tissue from being warmed by body temperature. The temperature of the fat cells drops to between -1 degree Celsius and -10 degrees Celsius, triggering pre-programmed cell death. After one hour of application all of the susceptible cells in the area have been triggered and will die off between two weeks and 3 months later. I don't want to use something as inaccurate as ice packs, I would like to buy an aluminum plate, attach wiring to one side to utilize the Peltier effect, apply a light vacuum to keep contact, and insert some kind of temperature control per Peltier junction to keep the temperature in the optimum zone. As far as the back of the connections that gets hot, cooling that with circulated anti-freeze or water should be sufficient, but I'm not sure of the best configuration on the plate/vacuum setup. The way the current Zeltiq technology pulls the skin so far away from the body leads me to believe it's not great for any area that doesn't have a lot of excess skin to pull on and I would like to create a shallower cavity that can fit in harder to reach places like the side of the chest under the arm.

Question by DIY_Novice    |  last reply


Smoker Grill

Looking at the DIY's for a smoker grill, why not just use your weber grill with the hotplate, air slots at bottom can give access to hot plate thermostat. You can make a rod with an end fitting to fit over the thermostat knob for fine tuning during operation.

Topic by phantom9    |  last reply


10-15 AMPs w/ potentiometer.

So, as a chemist I thought it would be fun to save some $ by making my own hot plate & magnetic stirrer. I am using Thermoelectric cooling device (TEC) to heat my stirrer, and a small DC motor to stir. Here's the problem - if you've ever taken highschool chemistry you will know that a hot plate with a stirrer has a potentiometer for Temp & Stirring speed - I'd like to do the same! Problem: the TEC takes anywhere from 5-20 amps in operation @ 12 volts DC. Adding a potetiometer to this in parallel is out of the question - I can't fine a potentiometer that can handle greater than 2 watts. ( i may just be looking in the wrong place)... So.. all in all I'm looking for nearly 140-170 watts of power for my heating plate. (The motor will be using much less, almost negligble to the heating plate) So, if I can't put a potentiometer in series for power regulation, how can I get my temperature to vary? If this is going to require a circuit board, I may need some help with a design :)

Topic by GreenD    |  last reply


Potential $5 RC Hovercraft

Hey y'all, I was bored, so I made this RC hovercraft, kinda like a Tiny Whoov, from the guts of a $5 RC helicopter (sold at most FiveBelows). The idea is that a hovercraft is more fun than a cruddy helicopter, in addition to being a fun and easy DIY project for the weekend. It could be a nice gift to a kid. My first concern was that the motors would not provide enough power to get the thing moving. They give more than enough power, and this thing can MOVE. My second concern is that the differential thrust steering system (one motor turns faster than the other, steering the hovercraft) would not be effective enough. This is still a problem that I don't have the enthusiasm or time to solve anymore. Maybe someone could figure out how to reprogram the FC board to have more differential thrust (is that possible?), or somehow configure a servo or actuator without raising the cost of materials too much. Anyway, here's the concept, go have fun with it.Supplies:Foam platesHot glue$5 RC helicopter with 2 motors and receiver (LED optional, but really cool)Connector (the battery might be soldered directly to the FC board, so this will make it easier to fiddle with)Soldering iron (not %100 necessary, but it can come in handy)Propellers (see design notes)Design notes:Notice how the underside of the hull is curved and smooth. I used propellers from a Blade Inductrix FPV Pro, but any micro quad propellers should work. Notice the nice little compartment under the FC board where you can stick a battery without the need for Velcro or glue. This would be a very easy FPV mod, but that would add about $20 to the cost.

Topic by Thorondor95  


How to make a high amp bridge rectifier?

I want to drive a peltier plate from a 12v transformer coupled with a bridge rectifier , but the diodes get very hot , so how can I make a high amp bridge rectifier that can provide upto 10 amps?

Question by ssahoo1    |  last reply


How do I make a broken, valuable bowl into something cool?

I recently broke one of my grandmother's bowls and I want to turn it into something cool (it can't be salvaged as a bowl). I was thinking a hot plate or mirror with pieces of the bowl in it. Any other ideas and how would I do this?

Question by mc2044    |  last reply


Can't get to page 10 of "Extreme Surface Mount Soldering"

Anyway that I try to access this page (by being on page 9 and then clicking on to 10 or whatever link I can find in the article) takes me directly to page1: https://www.instructables.com/id/Extreme_Surface_Mount_Soldering/step10/Using-the-Hot-Plate-Soldering-System/ Thanks, Cymen

Topic by Cymen  


Replacing an old bathroom fan

This is an idea someone may be able to use, but it does not quite rise to what I would want to do as an Instructable. A widow friend has two bathrooms, each with a very dated bathroom fan in need of replacement. I was able to mount the works (fan motor, fan blade, and mounting plate) for the new fan onto the old mounting plate after modifying the old plate. This saved me hours of work in a very hot confined attic when time and tools available to me were quite limited. Had I torn out the carcass for the old fan and tried to put the new fan carcass in its place, I would have needed to fashion a wooden framework for mounting the carcass that would fit just right between the ceiling joists, all so the fan would be properly centered above the existing hole in the ceiling.  The mounting plate for the new works was just a bit smaller than that for the old works. The height and diameter of the new fan cage were very close to the dimensions of the old fan cage. I began by using a cutting wheel on an angle head grinder to cut through the old mounting plate around the circumference of the old fan cage. Then I positioned the old mounting plate over the new works and its mounting plate. The glass dish that would cover the light bulbs fastens to a shaft that screws onto a threaded stud centered between the corners of the new mounting plate. I sighted across the corners of the mounting plates so the threaded stud was centered. I clamped the two mounting plates together and drilled four holes for 10-32 screws 1/2 inch long and secured them with nuts and lockwashers. (I did need to cut out part of the new mounting plate so the fitting for the two electrical outlets [fan and light] were accessible to plug in both the light and fan cords.) Had the glass dish mounted to the works differently, I would have used measurements from at least two sides to the center of the fan's shaft to position the new mounting plate on the old. Once the two mounting plates were held together with four screws it was a simple matter to put the works into the old carcass and plug in both the fan and the light to their respective receptacles. There was no question the works would fit because they were attached to the old mounting plate that had been taken from the old carcass. The round opening in the ceiling drywall bordered on being too large to be covered by the escutcheon for the new cover/light fixture. I added some drywall spackling around the edges to close any imperfections and gaps. For me this was an idea that worked and saved me a lot of time.  

Topic by Phil B    |  last reply


(newsletter) Music LED Light Box, String Pendant Lamp, Keyboard Rubik's Cube

String Pendant Lamp Crane Game Keyboard Rubik's Cube CD Roofing Tiles Billie Jean Light-Up Shoes Magnetic Spice Rack Simple Animatronic Robot Hand CPU Hot Plate Music LED Light Box Guides Ninja Ride Home Gardening

Topic by fungus amungus  


Does anyone know an adequate way to melt plastic for pouring into molds?

I've tried in a pot with some oil as a quasi-solvent/medium and also a double boiler; both end up with a "goo" that is almost impossible to work with. The type of plastic is #2HDPE and #4LDPE. I have also tried a hot plate and a propane burner; both ways also yeild the same results.

Question by samboy3    |  last reply


How would I rig an old analog clock to light up LEDs to show the time? Answered

 I was thinking of using the 10mm ultra-brights for the hour mark and the standard 5mm for the minutes. Should I connect them all to a common ground and use the hands as the "hots?" Should I use a plate-type contact; cause I feel that the post-type would interfere with the sweep of the hands. What kind of batteries should I use?

Question by javajunkie1976    |  last reply


How can I get my power supply to stop blowing fuses?

I built a power supply using a 25.2 volt 2 amp transformer to use for etching projects.  It worked on my test plate but then started blowing the 1 amp fuses I was using with it.  I switched to 2 amp fuses and it works but my transformer is getting too hot.  I have experimented with different amounts of solvent and different size plates, which definitely makes a difference, though my 1 amp fuses are at most lasting about 10 seconds.  I have read about building a control box with a halogen light and a variable resistor to control the amperage, but would it allow me to take some of the load off of the transformer?  And if it would work, how would I connect it to my power supply?

Question by Nordovita    |  last reply


Food Smoker

I'm trying to make a home-made smoker, a portable one that is. My current idea involves using a wooden smoke box, untreated wood (Any suggestions on what type to use?) and a portable gas stove, like those camping ones. My first question is, what type of wood would be good to make the box out of? Any major no-nos as to certain woods? Second, would a portable camping stove (either methylated spirits powered or gas powered) heat a metal plate hot enough to get the wood smoking?

Topic by Otacon    |  last reply


Car Heater/ Warmer

Hello I am Melwin from India I want to create a Car Can/ bottle Warmer/ Heater. My Basic Aim is to make hot water for preparing baby formula my baby when I travel with family in my car. This way I can avoid multiple stops for getting hot water. The commercial versions are available in the Market for a minimum of 3000 Rupees. It is very rare to buy in India My plan is to buy a 220 v 1000Watt Heating Element and cut it to suit to 12v When i measured one test setup with such a coil I get around 1.5 Amps per coil. I didnt have a thermometer to test how hot it gets. Since the car Cigarette Lighter supports 10A. I can easily Add 4-6 Coils of the same length in parallel. Also I can add switch to get different temperatures by adding up coil for each switch. 1-2 Coils = Warm. 3-6 coils = Heat. I dont want it to be a huge cooker. It should be able to heat up a glass (200 ml ) of water till 50- 60 degrees C) A higher version can have a Thermostat to cut off things as a safety feature. If this setup succeeds in boiling up water then I can also have my favourite cup nooodles when on long trips with friends I plan to make a small ceramic frame to mount the heating elemmet. On top I will place a Copper plate. Leaving some gap between the Plate and coil. This entire setup will sit in a Tin can of suitable diameter. I need to think about how i get the ceramic frame to Sit inside the can without touching the Metal. To this Metal can i will attach a handle so that it can be handled when hot. My next question. Where do I place it in my car safely. Suggestions/ Concerns/ Comments please Melwin

Topic by melwinmyworld    |  last reply


Is someone willing to give me a good amount of technical advice concerning heat dissipation using a Peltier device ?

Ok, I have a laptop that I use to play many videogames with, and as you can imagine, it has an overheating is a problem. I have software that monitors the GPU and CPU temperatures while I play. The GPU and CPU are rated at a 100c max temperature. Now that the summer season has started, my laptop gets hotter and hotter as I play. I am usually forced to Under-volt my computer so that it stays below safe temperatures. Now, I was digging around online and came across something called a "Peltier device". It is a small ceramic plate (with electrical nodes inside) that when electrified, transfers the heat from one side to the other. The peltier I got is rated at 545 watts, 32 amps, and 18vdc, and gets as cold as -60c, 150c. I ordered a desktop power supply online, along with 2 CPU cooling systems. (I.E.  2x Professional grade heat-sink, and 2x 120mm fan) The Power supply outputs 430watts, 28 amps, and 12vdc. I planned on taking these parts and simply sandwiching the peltier between 2 heatsinks, having 1 hot heatsink+fan and 1 cold heatsink+fan. I planned on pumping the cold air into the air intake on the bottom of my laptop, and just pump the hot air into the room.  Unfortunately, the problem I face (and this is a really stupid mistake) was that I did not measure out this whole assembly. It turns out, the peltier face plates are roughly 2.5" x 2.5", whereas the heat-transfer faceplate of the heatsinks are only about 1.5" x 1.5". Now, I wired this all up, and put it all together, ignoring the parts of the peltier that were hanging off and lo' and behold, the peltier worked as designed, one side got extremely cold, and the other got hot. The only problem is, over time, since nothing was drawing the heat away from the edges of the hot side, it transferred over to the cold side, thus warming it up to about room temperature, negating the entire purpose of the contraption.  This is the part that I need help on, would simply taking some aluminum plates that are large enough to cover the entire surface of the peltier, smother both sides in my remaining thermal compound, and then connect this aluminum (with more thermal compound) to the heatsink? This contraption is essentially meant to be a laptop cooling pad. Mounted inside of an old computer case. So it needs to be mobile (IE, liquid cooling is not an option). Can anyone think of a better solution to this? 

Question by schwerlin    |  last reply


need a jig for cuttin styrofoam straight/smooth surfaces?

I'm trying to get into lost foam (aluminum) casting, so I just build a styrofoam cutter ("frame" with a hot-wire). It's pretty difficult to handle because it melts trough the styrofoam so quickly and it's hard to hold perfectly straight and every movement makes an impression in the styrofoam part. I need some ideas on how to make a jig that makes it easy(er) to make smooth surfaces in the styrofoam part, I was thinking something that adjusts the distance between the hot wire and the table/surface and then just slide the styrofoam across the table/surface through the hotwire for making plates (easy), but I need to be able to change the distancee between the surface and the hotwire for different thinknesses but also somehow be able to make angles and hopefully also somehow ROUND PIECES AND CYLINDERS :o hope you can give me some inputs :D and even better some pictures, drawings and links thianks!

Question by lordl9999    |  last reply


Looking for micro pump for steampunk liquid-cooled laptop tray

Anyone with an aluminum powerbook knows how scary-hot the get during a dvd rip. My solution is a steampunk liquid cooling tray. It would have a copper plate with a thin liquid reservoir just under the centre, where the processor is, with brazed copper tubes emanating outward under the tray. But to keep the tray thin, I can't take advantage of the natural upward flow of the hot liquid and I want to avoid radiators hanging out the back or sides. I figure I need a wee pump to push the liquid out to the outer edges to cool. Running off the USB of course! I've seen the one made from a phone vibrator, a pen and some tubing. That'd work, i suppose. Does anyone have any suggestions on where to find a low voltage micro/nano pump? As for the USB, I found a mini voltage converter here. I can handle the design, it's the technical (esp. electrical) aspects that make me stumble. Any help would be so appreciated.

Topic by jodybaker    |  last reply


Rocket Cars--Brought to you by Schamadeke's Physics Class

HI, INSTRUCTABLES. So the story is, our class is doing an experiment to see if we can log the acceleration of matchbox cars with C or B model rocket engines. (Estes, if anyone's curious about the brand.) The experiment  went... Err, well. We destroyed two photogates. Our setup is as follows: >4.8m 2x4s, with metal plates at both ends. >20-or 22-guage steel wire, running between holes in the metal plates, tied to both ends. >Photogates at more-or-less 1m intervals. >ROCKET HOT WHEELS. The experiment went over more or less as planned. We had one car's frame come loose of its body and fly away with the rocket, one work fine except for actually hitting every photogate it was supposed to pass through, and on several other runs the wire jumped up and down so much that it triggered the gates all over the place. With these difficulties in mind, we would like to ask Instructables' advice on the matter. Does the incredibly talented community of Instructables' little corner of the Interblag have any advice for us? ... Dammit, I lost the game. Anyway, go on. Oh, and that last picture contains the car that ran off the track.

Topic by ssonicblue    |  last reply


Use car radiators for solar collectors. Any advice?

I have salvaged 2 car radiators, they aren't leaky. I want to use them for active closed loop solar collectors. Any advice? My current plan is to put them on the roof (in a hot box), then plumb them into an old water heater in the attic. My hope is they can recirculate glycol in a closed loop, convection only, but I may need to install a thermostat and pump. Anyone have experience in this? I want to dump the heat to my 2 water heaters in the basement (they are plumbed in tandem, so I can use the 1st tank for solar boost and 2nd tank for final temperature control). Heat exchangers: either the Butler Solar Wand, or Brazed Plate Heat Exchanger (single or parallel). Differential Temperature Controller from www.jc-solarhomes.com. Any advice or suggestions hugely welcome. thanks in advance, Chris

Question    |  last reply


Cooling of Laptops - It it possible to use copper pipe and heat convection to achieve this?? Answered

I have a compaq laptop that runs the cpu at 55 °C which is equal to 130 - +°F. I have constructed a fan extraction system using my computer desk that has two fans underneath extracting the hot air from the bottom of the laptop unit and 2 fans directing cool air into the laptop  from behind. I am only getting a 5C temperature drop. That is when the computer is idle. If the computer is actively processing this temperature goes up. The core temperature is constant 4 degrees high the cpu. I have read that using a hot water bottle is an effective way of reducing the temperature. I actually tried this method and it gave me much the same result as the fans. see this site http://digitalcomposting.wordpress.com/2008/04/30/water-cooled-laptop-stand-6/ Has anyone tinkered with the notion of using  a sealed copper coiled tubing with water or coolant. That the laptop can sit on via a thin aluminum plate as its base and acting as a heat transference agent then using the  natural heat convection en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heat_transfer to cool the laptop. This is achieved by having one of the sealed ends of the copper tube immersed into cold liquid. The convection would presumably happen due to the heat and cold differences. Your opinions and further Ideas are welcome.

Question by spiderfurby    |  last reply


Purchasing a peltier unit and have a few questions about them

I am planning on buying a peltier unit and have a few questions about it. This website gave me the idea so I figured I would ask here.What I'm planning to buy, http://www.virtualvillage.com/158w-thermoelectric-cooler-peltier-plate/sku001540-003I'm just going to list the questions and hope that someone is willing to answer,1. I understand that these unit get very hot and very cold at the same time, from my knowledge (which is not much so correct me if I'm wrong) of electronics the cold isn't really much of an issue but the heat could cause problems. Do I need to run a heatsink maybe with a fan on the hot side to prevent damage to the unit?2. It lists its' range as 0-15volts and 0-10amps I know overpowering a unit can cause damage to it, can under-powering non-mechanical electronics cause damage as well? Can you even under-power a peltier unit?3. On the website it states "Temperature Range: -60C to 180C" is this the temperature range I can expect the unit to reach at 158W or is it the range in which the device will operate?I would like to thank anyone in advance for taking the time to answer any of these questions.

Topic by Tpolich    |  last reply


Problem removing a glued on bearing from glass

I am a bit stuck and usually this does not happen too often :(Got a lazy Susan with two glass plates and the bearing sitting in two aluminium disks.The thing still works fine but the plates were never really centered properly.Starts to drive me nuts that it is always "wobbling"...My first attempt was to figure out if the glue might just be hot glue, so I gently heated it all up.Was a not go but didn't expect it to be that simple.Next try was to use some clay around the aluminum disk and then fill the dam with acetone to dissolve the glue.It did not even soften it a bit :(To make it complete I also tried it with Methye Ethyl Ketone as it never failed me but it seems the glue used is chemical resistant.In terms of echanic tried with a thin bladed tool but can't get it into the non existing gap between glass and aluminium.And even braided fishing line seems to fail as after about 20 minutes of trying to get in the glue I got nowhere.My last resort would now be to put it in the oven and slowly heat it up until the glue fails.Problem is that I highly doubt the Lazy Susan is meant to tolerate this and that it will crack.There is also the bearing and possible grease to consider as I have no clue yet whether or not I can take the disks apart to get to the bearing.Is there any good idea or tip that I missed that I can try before risking to heat it up?In case you wonder: The disk is about 5mm out of center...

Question by Downunder35m    |  last reply


RGB LED Bathroom shower light project problem. ?

I finished two bathroom reno's with the exception of the shower ceiling light. I started off by cutting 3 1/4: square 304 stainless steel plates and drilled out 4 holes in each for the rgb. Then assembled the rgb's into the housings and sealed them with hot glue. Then figured out the resistors based on 12 V which if memory serves me right they were 470 ohms and soldered them in parallel. Then I soldered the connectors and hot glued them so they wouldn't come in contact with each other. After installing the ceiling tiles I drilled 2 1/4" wide X 2½" deep holes through the kerdi membrane and sealed a plastic cover with foam insulation in the attic. Then I roughed in rgb cable from one hole to the other, with a home run to the controller. I tried doing a rough in trial run and it worked until one of the rgb�s burned out since they came in contact wth each other. I could actually hear it fizzle. Anyone have any suggestions on how I can make this work or are there retrofit rgb units that will fit the opening without breaking the bank? Each bathroom has 6 rough openings. That would make it 6 x 2 = 12. I'd like them to be rgb leds and be controlled via 12V adaptor and controller. If I need to start over again I have a budget of $150.00 if a another unit would work better. Thanks

Question by My Dream    |  last reply


Peltier Cooler/Heater - Pooling Brainpower

I recently acquired a thermoelectric mini fridge. As a fridge, it doesn't work so very well - it will get down to ~50 degrees with an ambient temperature of 70. So, I took it apart. You know the saying: "If it ain't broke - fix it until it is." So I now have a peltier effect cool/heater. I put my meat thermometer on the cold side with the fan off - and it gets down to freezing (probably a bit below). On the hot side, with a big sink and fan - it seems to be ~85 at it's warmest point (this sink is about half a square foot and an inch deep). Ideas on where to use? It's 110 service.... It literally almost killed me a few days ago when I touched a transistor sink that was part of the rectifier circuit while holding a plate that was grounded (I got knocked out for a few seconds) I've got a couple ideas, I just figured I'd pool brain power and see what happens :p

Topic by trebuchet03    |  last reply


Music stops as soon as the solder on the 3.5 mm jack dries after application?

Well...I have been repairing headphones for about a year now...like switching drivers..changing jacks and so on..so i have fair experience with soldering...well..I have a pair of audio technica -FC700A's which as really great for the small price i paid..and so later, i exchanged the cables(which were thin as string!) with more stronger and better Sony headphone cables(my old pair)..they worked fine for few months..but now i ruined my previous jack..and bought a new gold plated one...i connected the wires correctly..left, right and common..but I have a problem with the left wire(red)..i soldered it on to the point but the sound plays only when the solder is wet(or hot or still gooey)..as sson as the solder dries(cools down) the sound stops...i dont know what im doing wrong..is it dirt in the solder? or some gap? please help..im stuck!! Thanks..

Question by SashiShrestha    |  last reply


Anybody working on cryolipolysis? Answered

I am looking at using a pair of Peltier panels to make a "spot reducer" using cryolipolysis. Cryolipolysis is what the Zeltiq machine uses to freeze fat cells such that they dissolve. On a bodybuilding forum they were talking about using cool-paks, those gel-filled plastic blocks that you put in the freezer.  My idea is to take a hand clamp and mount the Peltiers to it. I may need cooling on the hot sides, for that I will probably use liquid cooling blocks from computer CPU coolers. Then, you just clamp those babies on your love handles and crank up the juice. "Animal studies show a fat-reducing effect starting at around minus 1C, with the plate in place from five to 20 minutes." Since Peltiers get about 65 degrees C in differential, and room temp is about 26 degrees (warm room!) it will be a piece of cake for the junction to chill off those love handles. Would not be hard to put a temp controller on it to protect from frostbite or from burning up the junctions. Before you scoff, a Zeltiq treatment runs $700!

Question by Exocetid    |  last reply


The best salmon dish youve ever had!

I made up this recipe one day and it became an instant hit with my family and my cheese-a-holic boyfreind! Its super easy but really impressive, great for dinner parties! Definitely not for those on a diet..... :) Serves 6 Rachelles Super Fantastic White Wine Poached Salmon W/Havarti Dill Cream Sauce over Herbed Rice! Sauce: 1 Lb. Harvarti w/Dill (usually sold at Safeway in the specialty cheese case in small ~half lb. blocks) 2 Pints Heavy Cream Salt&Pepper; to taste Fish: 6 Skin on Salmon filets 1 Shallot 1 clove garlic 1 Tbs olive oil 1 bottle white wine (I use Chateau St. Michelle Geswurtzraminer) Salt&Pepper; to taste Rice: 6 serving of your favorite rice (white brown, wild, minute, doesnt matter, use what you like) 1 tsp basil 1 pinch rosemary 1 pinch rubbed sage 1 tbs butter In a large shallow sauce pan, sweat the shallot and garlic on low heat in the olive oil until the shallot is soft. Salt and pepper to taste. Spread the shallots and garlic evenly across the bottom of the pan and place your fillets on top, skin side down, dont stack them! Pour the wine over the top until its covers about 3/4 of the way up the fish, cover and turn heat up a notch, medium low heat. Now just leave it alone! dont peak, dont poke, dont move your fillets around, just let them sit and cook! Depending on your stove, you may need to bump the heat up to a solid medium heat, you want it simmering, not boiling. Cook until tender 20-30 min. Now start your cream heating. Put it in a large round bottomed sauce pan and place over medium heat, stir occasionally to prevent the bottom burning.  Now start your rice so that by the time your sauce is done, your rice is too, so you can plate up immedietly and you wont have to worry about your sauce setting. Just cook your rice the same as always, only add the sage, rosemary, basil, and butter to the water so that the flavors cook into the rice While your cream is heating shred your havarti. I like to use the cheese grater attachment in my food processor because its super fast and you need top be able to watch your cream too! As soon as your cream is hot (NOT BOILING, JUST HOT) start slowly whisking in your cheese. Whisk constantly while adding about a half cup at a time, keep your heat on medium low while doing this or your sauce will break. It will take a little while to get your sauce smooth, so keep your heat low and just keep whisking until its nice and smooth. Salt and pepper to taste. Plating: Mound your herb rice in the center of your plate, spoon a little bit of the cooking liqiud from the fish over the rice then place your fillet on top. Drizzle a good dose of Your havarti dill sauce over the top and DIG IN!

Topic by mistresscroft69    |  last reply


Scrounging Electronic Components

Old PCBs (printed circuit boards) used to be a great source for electronic parts. Especially if you need a power transistor, MOSFET, voltage regulator, big capacitor, or reed relay which is not available locally. It just does not pay to mail order small numbers of parts, so having a grab bag assortment at home is handy. But I have noticed that the some higher-quality PCBs just loaded with cool parts can be hard to scrounge from: 1. They are double-sided, or even multi-layered, with copper plating right through the holes (vias) so it is like pulling teeth, only harder. 2. They use no-lead (RoHS) solder which needs high temperatures to melt 3. They use surface-mount components and good luck removing and using those. I use 15 watt, 40 watt, soldering irons, solder sucker, solder braid, flux, and a soldering gun. And for some items, a small windproof butane "jet engine" lighter as a mini torch to remove multi-pin items. Just heat-sink the legs and bang the hot PCB down to remove lots of solder at once. Of course I use gloves, safety goggles, ventilation, and proper recycling. But the main issue is that it is getting harder to scrounge parts to build up a pile of useful stuff.  What resources do you use?

Topic by iectyx3c    |  last reply


Terrace Cooling System - Ideas

Hi, my name is Michael and I'm from Austria. Nowadays we have about 38°C (100°F). We have a Terrace which has a area of 33m² (355.21ft²). This terrace has a roof, which consists of polycarbonate plates. We have the problem that it is very hot on our terrace although we use awnings. Now I've discovered some ideas how i could cool down our terrace. The first one could be a water cycle, with a container and a pump. Then the pump could pump up the water. The water flows down the roof and flows back into the container. I don't know if this is a efficient way to cool down our terrace? The 2nd possibility I discovered is water mist. I found this video to show the principle: http://youtu.be/bYTcMCm2zWg I don't know if it is possible to sit underneath the water mist without getting wet?? I just want some Ideas and oppinions. Maybe some of you have realized their own cooling system? I know how to program an Arduino and other microcontrollers and I am able to develop electronic circuits. So I think i have the basic knowledge for building such a system, but I can't decide which principle i should use? I am sorry for my bad english skills, but i hope that you can understand me.  Thanks in advance Mike

Topic by MiKe1753    |  last reply


How to add suspension to a food trolley to prevent spillage of food and tea?

I am an A level Product design student and I am designing a food trolley for a person with grip and stability issues.  One of the biggest problems with current models is that when they go over the slightest bump or carpet runners/plates e.g. and they will spill and tip whatever is on them. This is a massive problem if the user is carrying hot tea or their dinner, increasing clean up work and generally reducing the quality of life of the user. I cannot think of a relevant method for stabilising the food tray/drink holder without drastically reducing the overall function and massively increasing cost while still allowing the trolley to support the user while they take their food from the prep area/kitchen to the eating area.  A few Ideas I have had:  large pneumatic wheels (solid rubber in most other examples), Some sort of spring suspension, Pistons, A counter weight... I have tried researching stabilisers for cameras but they don't seem to be relevant. Help with research keywords would also be useful as its difficult to know what to look up. Another problem I'm addressing is the aesthetics of the product as most examples just look like hospital equipment not everyday furniture. Currently I am siding on wood as the main material for the frame, If anybody has suggestions that would be better than boring tubular steel I am still in the early stages of development and would appreciate inspiration!

Question by bcavaciuti    |  last reply


Unusual uses for coffee machine cleaner or delimer/descaler

Some people can't be without coffee, and some love to keep thei machines as clean as possible.Teste is all and if is not right the day already starts bad...But what is that stuff really?It needs to be food safe, shall not damage or corrode and part of the machine and of course can't be harful or even toxic.The main ingredient is an acid.Some acids are considered to be very corrosive on almost anything, others can set set organic material on fire and some even etch glass.Limestone, coffee staind and build up as well as most minerals that might build up in your machine magically disappear with just some added water and time.Our candidate is named Citric Acid!Very weak on things we thing about when comes to strong acids but quite powerful on the offending stuff in our kettles and coffee machines.Knowing that means we could abandone quite a lot of expensive and specialised cleaning produduct for a fully natural and harmless alternative.Calcium deposits in the bath clean up really nice and quick with it - but read the warnings and dangers below!Same for long abused toilets as mentioned in my topic about it.Stainless steel cooking pots or pans are still a favourite for some people, the pain of cleaning them once something really burnt on badly not so much.Vinegar is a prefered choice here, if you stand the smell when heating it up.Citric acid can not only provide the same cleaning strength but also deal with the things vinegar can't.In some cases stainless steel can develop rusty pits or discoloration from overheating (not trying to make it glow!).And where vinegar just cleans off the burnt in food, citric acid also clean the steel itself.Up to a degree even badly discolored things come back to a silvery look if you give it some time to work.Ever had some rusty parts and tried vinegar to get them back to bare steel?Coke can add some slight protection by passivating the steel, but like on stainless steel citric acid can do more.Unless highly concentrated and hot it won't really affect and good steel quickly.On the other hand it is really aggressive on impurities, rust and certain hard to clean off residues.Words of warning, wisdom and advise!A little bit of hydrochloic acid in your stomach is not only required but also harmless.You wouldn't want in a concentrated form anywhere on your in you though....The same logic is true with citric acid - you can make some nice artificial lemonade with it to enjoy on a hot summers day.But highly conecentrate or even heated up the story is quite different!Proper protection should be as obvious as proper handling.And mishaps should be dealt with lots of water or baking soda right away.I stress this out as my last example will highlight the dangers of citric acid that are not reall known to the public.And if it is that dangerous for some things or even just one that you should not take the risk with living tissue when dealing with higher concentrations or temperatures.Side effect that could possibly be lethal!Shiny things are nice and even nicer if clean and sparkling.Chrome plating or using chrome even is plastic coatings is still common.A lot of tap and bathware is chrome plated, same for a lot of things we have in our households or tool boxes.As tempting as it might be to use citric acid to clean something that just might contain chrome you should not try it!Chrome is almost all of its salt forms is highly toxic, same for most if not all byproducts of chemical reactions involving chrome.Cirtic acid is extremely aggressive on chrome!The tell tale sign is a discoloration of your solution into a greenish-yellow tint!Another a distinct and really unpleasant smell!Some steels include chrome too, so if you notice a bad smell when cleaning then rinse all properly and using other ways of cleaning the item!Corroded chrome plated parts might benefit from a treatment though despite the risk.Unlike sanding the chrome down and contaminating everything with fine and toxic dust you only need to deal with liquids and breathing protection - doing it outside or in really well ventilated areas is a must do anyways here.Dsiposal of anything that caused a bad smell or yellow-greenish discolartion should be done in a sealed container at your local waste disposal center.Please lable it and and also mention it contains chrome dissolved in citric acid!If you placed chrome plated parts into a solution of citric acid by accident and only realise once the smell interrupted your movie session then first go outside!!!This means preferably every living being in the house!If you have use brething protection in the form of carbon filters but either way try to vent the house first by trying to open what you can from the outside.The removal of the metal and taking the container outside should be done as quickly and safely as possible.Unless you are prepared and know what you so stay outside, call the fire brigade and state what happend!A severe reaction with chrome is nothing you should risk your health for!Never, ever dispose of anything that cause a bad smell or discoloration through drain!Bring to a disposal center and keep possible poisons of of the enviroment!

Topic by Downunder35m    |  last reply


Melting Tin Alloy to make pendant jewelry

I've made several attempts to melt down a tin alloy metal (92% tin, 8% antimony) to make pendants; small pendants for necklaces. I haven't had any luck with this at all!  The mold has been cast - the metal has been chosen but...my process isn't working. I'm using a hot plate and a small teflon pan to melt the metal. The problems I'm running into are: Once I melt the alloy, I can't get it into the mold before it starts cooling.  It pours out too quickly from the pan, then cools too quick to finish pouring.  It's a small mold (1 3/4" diameter with 1/8" lines) which isn't helping I'm sure.  Not sure on a couple things I'm hoping somebody who know more about this than I do could possibly make some suggestions. I don't know if I should be using a flux to keep the metal clean because it is getting dirty after the melting. I don't know how to get it from the pan to the mold before it cools? Someone, I'd imagine, must have come out with a tool for transferring small amounts of metal to molds.  I tried a glass eye dropper today but didn't have any luck with the transfer process.  Not sure if a crucible and flux is the way to go or not. If so, does anybody know of a good company that has items designed for this type of work? Any and all help / info / suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!  Thank you

Topic by Vince11    |  last reply