Hello I'm a new user would anyone like an instructable on how to produce hydrogen in your own home?
Topic by steven07 | last reply
I am wanting to make some sulphuric acid because it is on of the most useful acids around and i have ran into a problem. after you burn sulphur to create sulphur dioxide you then need a catalyst to form sulphur trioxide and then dissolve in water. which catalysts could be used and could you just let the sulphur dioxide dissolve in hydrogen peroxide (so2-----so3------h20--------h2so4 or so2 ------ h202---------h2so4).if this would work how could you get a large enough concentration of hydrogen peroxide?
Topic by dellboy | last reply
I have a hydrogen generator and use the gas as i make it at the moment. I want to try compressing it, the issue is the gas is really a combination of pure oxygen and hydrogen in the perfect explosive mix. If i have flame aresters on all my pipes and have it well earthed as well as not using steel parts in the compressor so there is no chance of static or sparks from steel, will it be relatively safe to try compressing this into a cylinder? or am i insane to try this???
Question by benmurton | last reply
Does anyone know how to test for output quantity of HHO gas from a Hydrogen Generator when connected to a vacuum such as your intake manifold? The output is easy to test when just checking with a submerged bottle with the generator running on its own without being hooked to a vacuum source. The generator will put out substantially more volume under vacuum than when not. How do you check for output volume when under vacuum? Pylgram
Topic by Pylgram | last reply
I am wondering if methanol production (as a byproduct of CO2 and hydrogen) would be possible as diy project . I have been reading about CO2 hydrogenation that (as topic mentioned) would lead to methanol production. Methanol would be easier to store than hydrogen ,no needing special equipment (refrigerated containers ). Anyone familiar with this ? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol One of the patents available: http://www.google.com/patents?id=mTI5AAAAEBAJ&pg;=PA7&dq;=co2+hydrogenation&hl;=en&ei;=J0PuTeT6KseD-wbZ_cX6Bw&sa;=X&oi;=book_result&ct;=result&resnum;=6&ved;=0CDIQ6AEwBQ#v=onepage&q;=co2%20hydrogenation&f;=false
Topic by gabdab | last reply
Hello, I generated hydrogen simply by applying a DC current to 2 tubes filled with water , the ( - ) tube started bubling and filled up with a gas, i suppose that it should be hydrogen, i sucked the gas with a syringe and tried to burn this gas with a lighter by squeezing the syringe directly over the lighter's flame but the gas wouldn't burn, instead i heard micro pop's , like micro explosions.. Isn't hydrogen flamable ??
Question by Nick_Zouein | last reply
Where I've to connect the output of hho gas generator to my motorbike? I've no experience in mechanics, but I know is very simple to connect the hydrogen gas output tube to some part of my motorbike to run the motorbike on hho. The question is... where? If you answer to my that, I'll make an instructable about the process.
Topic by FelixSP | last reply
I'm making a hydrogen motorbike that runs this kind of motor ===>http://www.ebay.com/itm/ME0709-Brush-Type-Permanent-Magnet-Motor-PMDC-24-72V-DC-Etek-R-19HP-pk-/250954809815?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash;=item3a6e1281d7 However, all i can find are " make your own HHO" fuel cells (which I'm pretty sure isn't what a fuel cell does but I might be wrong on that). Where can I find an actual hydrogen fuel cell that can power this motor plus lighting (and a few things like an arduino) for the motorcycle. Thanks a bunch!
Question by Sun Gear | last reply
I've been reading quite a bit about hydrogen boosters for vehicle motors ( gas and diesel )on the internet. Seems like there's some debate about whether they are effective. They are a bit pricey. Does anyone know of any DIY plans to make such a booster?
Topic by CarlosCoyote | last reply
I want to store hydrogen gas(not browns gas) in some kind of pressure container. Since the propane tank is not a good idea from your forum, I was thinking about using a truck tire that could be pressurized to 120 psi. What are the hazards in this process. I would suck out the air from the tube tire with a vacuum pump and then generate hydrogen gas, compress it into the tire. Will it work or will it become unstable and blow up?.
Question by o tvedt | last reply
The manufacturer of a hydrogen car unveiled in London on Tuesday will make its designs available online so the cars can be built and improved locally.The Riversimple car can go 80km/hr (50mph) and travels 322km (200mi) per re-fuelling, with an efficiency equivalent to 300 miles to the gallon....The company will distribute the engineering designs to the 40 Fires foundation, a not-for-profit organisation that will make the designs "open source".The idea, they say, is to allow local manufacturing in small plants. This stands in contrast to the "economies of scale" that drive current plants to huge sizes and workforces.In addition, designs can be adjusted for local markets, using locally sourced parts or materials.The agreement will be such that if the designs are improved by a local manufacturer, those improvements will be sent back, so that what the company refers to as its "network of manufacturers" can contribute to the overall development of the product line.
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Alright what the image depicts is a plastic bottle with two holes in its cap for two wires. The holes are then caulked hot glued etc. to be waterproof. Then you open up the bottle and fill up with water almost to top [farther than in picture]. Then you hook up wires to a battery. What will happen when you do this?A no more room for hydrogen bubbles bottle expands blows upB hydrogen bubbles find a way out C utter failureI have been thinking this over if anyone out there is good at science outhere please help. Also if this does work it would be an awesome time bomb. PS i couldn't figure out how to add notes i use firefox please help.
Topic by thejrb | last reply
So i have seen forklifts use propane as a form of fuel i would like to make an engine that can take hydrogen that was made from a hydrogen generator and compressed into a propane tank and use that as the engines form of fuel but honestly i have no idea how to even start this...this is a science class project between me and my friend and as the engine we wanna use would be something around this probably something small and nice not like a car engine but it will still do something if put to use like connected to a bike or something http://www.bmw-powertrain.com/powertrain/en/motorc... so does anyone have any ideas? to make an engine like this run off of hydrogen within a compressed tank? would love your guys help as we would love to do this but do not know where to start
Question by ShinigamiTentetsutou | last reply
Although the topic is quite old for some of us and mostly because I am too lazy today to make an Instructable: Hydrogen Peroxide ! Back in the day Hydrogen Peroxide was mainly known for the ability to bleech your hair, later it replaced chlorine based products for the preparation of paper and organic fibres. For me it is a good opportunity to go back in time and to pull out some of the remedies my grandparents already used. Who knows, there might be something that helps you or you might know other good uses that I failed to mention here, so feel free to comment. First off: What actually is hydrogen peroxide? We could check Wikipedia but I think it is enough to say that it basically water with an added oxgen mulecule which turn the stuff into a quite powerfull oxidizer. When hydrogen peroxide reacts the added oxygen is released and the normal water remains. Precausions and health risks. In the normal supermarket form hydrogen peroxide comes at a strenght of just 3%. This is just enough for wound treatment or cleaning off a fresh and small stain. The stuff you can buy at your hair dresser comes in concentrations of 5-15%, above that it is of little use to them. Pool grade peroxide however can come as high as 50%. It often requires a permit of at least leaving a copy of your drivers license to buy such high concentration but well worth it price wise. The downside of anything above 5% is a risk for your skin, eyes and airways. So when handling hydrogen peroxide you should waer long sleeve rubber gloves, safety or better swimming goggles and make sure that you don't create vapour by spraying it against the wind direction. Having water at hand to dilute and spillage on your skin is always good. What happens to me if things go wrong? Well, if handled correctly nothing should go wrong but of cause the worst would be eye contact. Getting concentrated hydrogen peroxide in your eyes means extreme pain and even with rinsing it out asap eye damage is more than just possible. Again: wear proper eye protection and if spraying use a filter mask, the paper type is enough!!! Nothing immediate happens on sking contact but a few minutes after contact the skin will turn slightly brown or goes white. This is caused by the oxygen release into your skin cells, if washed off quickly after noticing the discoloration will fade after a few hours. Prolonged exposure of the skin can cause skin cells to fully discolor and living cells might get damaged - a burning sensation is usually the sign that you need to wash the area now ;) Enough bad stuff said, let's see what we can do in the garden.... Fungal infection of your old roses or on your fruit trees? Sometimes the weather does not like our plants and by the time we discover a fungal infestation it is usually pruning time. There are commercial producta available that work quite well but especially the copper based ones tend to do more harm than good in th long run. An alternative is a solution of 10-20% hydrogen peroxide. Spray generously over all affected parts of the plant, leaves, twigs, stem and all. Make sure everything is properly wet! In some cases the fungus can act as a water replellent and it seems impossible to get any of the solution to wet these areas - a drop of dish washing liquid into the bottle will fix this! Watever runs off can be left as it only helps to get oxygen into the soil but of course you should not soak the area... Leave it on for about an hour, around 20 minutes if it quite warm. Rinse all off with clear water and repeat every 2 days for 5 treatments all up. After this time wait 2 or 3 weeks and check if the fungus still gows in some hard to reach areas. If so then repeat the treatment there until satisfied but wait another 2 weeks every 5 single treatments. In some areas of the world certain types of fungus on roses are refered to as "rust". ----- Moved into a new home and the garden beds smell really bad? The last house I moved into had a previous occupant with a big dog but no time to clean after his pet. The garden beds looked dead and I mean so dead that I could not even find weeds in them. And the smell was a distinct mix of old dog poo with lots of fresh cat poo mixed in it - the perfect outdoor pet toilet :( Trying to dig it all under made me recover that the top soil was more §$&*# than soil. I had to get rid of the bacteria of all the poo and somehow neutralize a lot of the unwanted "nutrients". The solution was to first loosen all the soil as deep as I could go. Then I added rice straw (but anything straw like or dry grass will do) to mix it through. At this stage I wished I had a gas mask LOL All up the contaminated garden beds covered about 20square meters. I got a 10 liter canister of pool grade hydrogen peroxide, from this I diluted down with 20 liters of water and a few drops of dishwashing liquid to help with the soil wetting. All was applied as evenly as I good with a watering can and then the area was covered with some tarp to try keeping as much oxygen on and in the soil as possible. A day later the tarp was removed and all beds watered with hose to drowning point. This watering was repeated every 3 days for 3 weeks to drive out all the excess and unwanted nutrients from the poo. The smell was already gone except for some cat urine residue which disappeared after some rounds of watering. Three months after the initial treatment I did some soil tests, added nutrients were required and the next season I had vegetables growing :) ----- Planting? Whether from seeds or seedlings, give hydrogen peroxide a try! I use a 5% solution to soak the potting mix I use before putting my seeds in it. Not only does it kill a few of the unwanted things that might still be in there but it adds a lot of oxygen into the soil, which gives the seeds a much better start. For seeds I use a 5% solution as well but only leave them in for about an hour before placing them between some wet paper towels until they start germinating. This way I can be sure all harmful bacteria and fungal spores are dead and I can use a sterile seed to keep going. Might just be my opinion but I think the germination rate is better and seedling in comparison start growing faster and stronger. Home uses.... As we learned before hydrogen peroxide, at least in higher concentrations is a powerful way to remove fungus. In our bathrooms we often have the problem that the ceiling starts to develop black spots as in the colder times water condenses here and takes a long time to dry off. If you now go to your favorite hardware store they will recommend the use of a chlorine based product, basically bleach... And although it does the job it also means your house will stink for days and if you scrub the ceiling you will get it on your sking and stink too. Hydrogen peroxide at 20% or higher concentrations can be sprayed onto the cleiling :) Of course you will need good protection for this and all things color should be removed, like towels or floor mats. By protection I mean a minimum of swimming goggles, a tyvek suit or similar to cover all exposed skin areas and at least a paper dust mask, better a filtered respirator like you use for spray painting or using insecticides. If you have a spray bottle with an adjustable nozzle then a stream is far better than a spray mist!! Not only is your exposure far lower but it much easier to wet the ceiling quickly. Wet all affected areas, then leave and the room, close the door and take off all clothes you used t protect you. The clothes can be left out to dry but double check that you had no soaked spot where your sking might have been in contact - if so rinse the skin with plenty of water! It will take some time to work and then dry, so best to do this in the summer time or if during the colder times you need to make sure the room is porperly heated and aired out to dry! Repeat until all black spots are gone, really bad areas will leave a permanent discoloration looking like a slight brwonish color is the ligh it right otherwise you won't see it. Once fully dry it is best to scrape off all lose paint and then to use a acrylic based sealer before giving the ceiling a fresh coat of white. The sealer will prevent the water to penetrate more than the paint level and if you get the fungus back on the paint it is far easier to clean ;) ----- Carpet cleaning.... When moving into a new rental with carpet on the floor you often are left with areas indicating the carpet might be "clean" but the underlay certainly is not. You can fix the underlay but you certainly can make sure all harmful stuff is gone from the carpet. Carpet cleaning machines can be hired but often much cheaper if you buy the "recommended" cleaning product with it. Rent is usually based on a daily base and price depends on how much cleaner you need. If you only want to desinfect the carpet which otherwise looks mostly fine than go for the smallest pack available and use it to spot clean areas you want cleaner first. For the desinfecting part I recommend to test how high you can go with the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide before using it on a big scale - keep in mind the carpet will never be fully dry and the remaining peroxide will continue to act! Test a 10% solution first before you go higher as you don't want to buy 30 liters or more of pool grade peroxide - just trust me on that one and only try to buy this much you do want to get into trouble a few days later! If 10 percent solution left on the carpet does not cause any bleaching of the fabric (unwanted bleaching that is) you can try higher for spot cleaning in demanding areas. A good spot to try the solution is under the cover or duct outlets, under these joining bars where carpet changes to tiles (if you can lift them off) or in wardrobes if the carpet goes inside. There are two way to treat your carpet once the general cleaning is done. a) use a garden sprayer or similar to wet the carpet This is good for single room treatment like for the baby room but especially on thicker carpets it requires a lot of solution and can become costly. Once wet leave for at least 30 minutes so the peroxide can do its thing, then use the machine with either the solution filled or just to dry off the carpet. I recommend to use the peroxide solution in the machine as it allows for better penetration and it will remove more soiled solution this way. If your catching container starts bubbling like mad it means you have a lot of §$%&#+ in the carpet and it might be best to first clean it all with the normal carpet cleaning agent before using the peroxide again - again tesing on smaller areas can help wasting the peroxide. If you need to store prepared solutions than it is best in a cold place. It will take several hours on an otherwise clean carpet for the peroxide to fully disappear so it best to use shoes and prevent skin contact during that time - especially if a baby crawls around ;) ----- Toilet.... We don't want to talk about it but everyone needs to clean their toilet sooner or later. For most things in there using the toilet brush when it happens will keep things clean and healthy. But what if someone in the house is sick or with a weak immune system? You could use all sorts of commercial cleaners and desinfectants but a wipe with wet towel or cloth soaked in a 10% solution of hydrogen peroxide will quickly eliminate all harmfull things on your seat, lid or bowl, including the buttons to press and the door handles ;) Just wipe and leave it wet for a minute or two then wipe again and ry - done! Personal use I always pack a small bottle of supermarket grade peroxide when going off road or camping trips. Although we now have modern desinfectants that won't stink or otherwise harm you I still prefer the old stuff ;) If you are far from civilisation than the last thing you want to need is medical attention for something that started as small as a scratch or graze.... Out in the unkown wilderness you will never know if the rockk you just crash landed on was used as a urinal by a fox the night before... A bit of gravel left in your skin might contain harmful bacteria... A cut with your own knife?? - What did you all cut since the last proper cleaning of the blade? You see where I am going here, a small thing might turn into something really nasty a day or two later. If you clean a freash and minor wound properly and then rinsie it with hydrogen perodixe most if not all harmful leftovers will be killed by the releasing oxygen. Of course this pretty much useless on bleeding wounds or where it is obvious that you won't be able to remove all debris from the wound - here it means you trip is still over in favour for proper medical treatment. The thing is that hydrogen peroxide was basically abandoned for all wound treatment once the modern "cleaning aids" became available as the peroxide will not only attack harmful things but also living tissue. The claims goes as far as causing bad scar tissue, damage to blood vessels and even "burning" of the tissue. One big problem I have with all these claims is that they were never really mentioned until the new meds came out. IMHO exposure time and how you use it it the key - common sense if you ask me. Noone should ever soak a wound in peroxide, if it is that big that you need to soak it you need medical attention anyway. And as said you should rinse the wound, that means all remaining liquid should be allowed to flow off - this will only leave a minor amount of peroxide in the wound and the exposure time will end with once all oxygen is released. For minor wounds I only use a paper tissue or cotton bud soaked in peroxide and wipe the wound.... ----- Smelly feet? Ok, maybe not the best way to start a conversation but we all know what sneakers do to our feet in the summer... Insoles with copper and activated carbon will help a lot and at least "cure" your sneakers while they are off your feet and have time to dry. But the smell is actually cause by bacteria growing from everywherey in your sneaker to your sking, actuall starting at your sking... If you wear your sneakers for long periods of time time or even whenever possible and also suffer from a bad smell hydrogen peroxide might be able to help you. Most sneakers will tolerate a machine wash and should come out germ free, if that is no option pack them in a sealed back and leaven them in the freezer over night - this will kill all bacteria and remove the smell. Now to break the endless cycle you need to remove the bacteria from inside your skin. So daily sock changes, freezing shoes and washing feet is a must! Your feet will really benefit from a foot bath in a 5% solution of hydrogen peroxide. To keep costs at a minimum use a container that is just the right size for your feet and prepare the solution from pool grade peroxide. I an ideal case you should not need more than 2 liters but all used product can be stored cool and re-used the next day, after that you need to make a new batch. Keep your feet submerged for at least 10 minutes. This will allow a deep penetration of the skin but might result in some white spots that will disappear after a few hours. Consenquent foot baths can be reduced to 5 minutes. After about a week you should notice that wearing your sneakes no longer causes and bad smell and you can stop the treatment. Freezing the sneakers over night, dialy (or more) sock changes and daily, proper cleaning of your feet should prevent any further bad smells :) ----- Bleaching your hair Althoug it was done for many years I really can't recommend using hydron peroxide for this purpose! Any concentration strong enough to have a proper effect in a reasonable time will at least cuase skin irritation. Back in the days they said your burning scalp is what you need to endure to get blonde hair :( And as said already you really don't want to get that stuff into your eyes... General uses If you have a fruit based stain then cahnces are hydrogen peroxide will remove it, especially if fresh. Even at supermarket concentration repeated application and proper drying off with a paper towel or similar will remove even red wine or beetroot stains. ------ Blood... On you skin blood is easy removed with cold water, same on other surfaces but washing off is no option a wet cloth or cotton piece will work fine. Hydrogen peroxide is good if things need to go fst or if the surface is porous, here the releasing oxigen will drive out the blood with the bubbles. ----- Fish tanks... If you love your tank then you really hate to medicate or even worse have a bad algea infestion, especially the stuff of the black kind. A change to activated carbon filter material is always recommended after a medical treatment to remove all leftovers from the system. However, certain medication simply won't be affected by a carbon filter and stay in the system until fully used or broken down otherwise. Especially in bigger tanks a partial water change is often out of the question as it would cause too much additional stress to the fish and plants. Hydrogen peroxide can help to break down most if not all remains of the used medication while at the same time adding more oxygen to the water. To be sensitive and safe in all enviroments I recomment to calculate the concentration based on the volume of your tank and to add the required amount of peroxide very slowly into the outgoing water stream from your pump. By slowly I mean in terms of a slow drip if using solutions over 10% to be added to the tank. If in doubt remove a suitable amount of tank water into a bucket and add the concentrated peroxide to reach the final tank limit. I strongly recommend to stay below 2% in favour over additional treatments a few days later if required. That means the diluted solution you add should be entered into the tank slowly if in doubt add a glass full every few minutes. For the treatment of the dreaded black algea you do the same 2% solution but be prepared that it will take several treatment until you see them die off. If you can then it is best relocate the fish for a few days so you can use a stronger solution of 5-8% just with the plants left in the tank. When transporting fish in a bag it can pay off to add a little bit of 3% peroxide to the bag to give additional oxygen for transport. I do this maually for every fish I buy from a store so I can be sure all fungus and bacteris is killed of before I introduce it to my tank. Really helps to prevent loosing a lot of fish just because you added one or two more to your tank ;) For the normal sized transport bags I use a good shot glass full of 3% peroxide in case you wondered. ----- Fridge and freezer Be it after long use or because you bought one second hand - once empty and warm some of our colling gadget just smell bad. A good clean with a hot water and your favourite cleaning agent is a good start, no need for aggressive stuff ;) If clean but still smelly, like after a power failure with fish in it you might want to go one step further. Best option is to use a spray bottle and a peroxide solution of at least 15% here. Use proper protection as mentioned above and spray all surface with the solution until soaked. What you can take out you take you take out, clean properly and then wipe or brush with the same peroxide solution. Bare aluminium should be handled with caution as in some cases it can oxidise badly, leaving a white and not removable crust behind. Here it is best to wipe and then wipe again with a cloth soaked in clear water to limit exposure time. No need to dry out - wipe out and check if it still smells, if so repeat and wiped off all areas as good as you can with a solution soaked cloth. Once the smell is gone dry out and enjoy smell free use from now on :) ----- Fruit and vegetables Unless you know exactly what happened to it you might want to clean your vegies and fruits properly before using them. Pesticides, herbicites, fungicites.... Not mention normal fungus and bacteria on the product.... On a commercial base hydron peroxide baths are often used to clean products for sensible people, hospital use or long term storage. For a personal use this only makes sense if you have free and unlimited access to the peroxide. An alternative are ozone bubblers. Expensive models can eb bought in shops or online, complete with timers or even a gauge showing the concentration in a room. On a hobby level for the kitchen sink we can use an ozone generator, air pump and bubble stone from the aquarium store ;) Let the pump bubble out the ozone for a minute or two, fill the sink with the fruit and veggies and move them around every few minutes. Best of course with an open window to limit you exposure to the ozone! Rule of thumb: If you can smell it is already too much in the air! The ozone in the water does the same as the peroxide: It breaks down harmful things with pure oxygen. The downside is that it is very harmful for your airways and body in general, so against all what youtube can offer I actually prefer to treat my fruit and veggie in a sealed bag. Place them inside, push out as much air as you can and then fill up with the ozone from the generator. Once the bag is full leave for about 30 minutes then wash and use or place the things in the fridge.
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
What is the most practical and cost efficient way to make a 10m3 gas bag for the storage of hydrogen? I am planning to store pure Hydrogen (made from water electrolysis) in an outdoor area, a bit like the way biodigestor gas is stored in low cost, small scale installations. My concern is the high effusing nature of the gas through membrane material. My first thought was to use reinforced PVC like that used for truck tarpaulins but I can't find any info on effusing rates verses other materials. Ideally the gas would be able to remain in the bag for a maximum 2-3 weeks until needed. This is an experiment on the practical applications of locally produced hydrogen, so I hope to be able to follow up any advice by constructing the gas bag and reporting back with the project progress. Any thoughts and advice would be gratefully received! Thanks in advance, Nick
Question by Nick 73 | last reply
I've made several hydrogen generators via electrolysis, but every time I failed to store the generated hydrogen under (some) pressure. In this-> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9Q6gDKP2R0 video they used an emptied fire extinguiser to store the hydrogen. The only problem with this is that they use a chemical reaction to generate the hydrogen whereas I want to use a renewable source (electricity). I have a compressor so I could use that to generate the pressure. Has anyone got any ideas on how I could store hydrogen under pressure? Thanks
Topic by selujtje | last reply
I have just learnt that hard drive platters are coated in platinum, i know platinum is a catalyst in the reaction between hydrogen and oxygen to for water and produces electricity. This is basically what happens in i hydrogen fuel cell. Has anyone tried using these platters in making a fuel cell and if so how successful was it? Does anyone know if the platinum quantity high enough for this to be viable? I would like to here any ideas on this quite interesting project.
Question by benmurton | last reply
BBC News are running an item about a car running on home-produced hydrogen.UK company ITM Power has produced a plastic film they claim is suitable for home electrolysis of water to produce hydrogen. The hydrogen (they say) can be used in the home, to be burned for cooking or heating, or to power a car (they are simply burning it, but it could supply a hydrogen fuel cell).As we have mentioned elsewhere on this site, current sources of hydrogen are not "green" (95% of current H2 supplies are manufactured from fossil fuels), but ITM say that their system is green because you aren't stopping at a filling station, you're generating your own hydrogen from the energy resource of your choice (maybe your own solar cells or wind turbine).Others, however, have questioned the wisdom of storing tanks of hydrogen at home.Whatever the application, if this new material is all that they claim, it could be a major step towards a true hydrogen society.BBC StoryITM Power
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Ok, so I got how to get water, but how do I condense it without losing much, and would it be at least a semi-efficient and/or fast way of obtaining around a cup of water? So, I have another question. I know, I've been posting a new question at least once a week for a while now and you're all probably like "Dark Master87, Y u no shut up and stop trying to do impossible things?? w(O;O)w" Most people on here probably know about electrolysis and seperating water into hydrogen and oxygen with electricity, but it's simple and I don't currently have a use for it. But does anyone know how to bond hydrogen and oxygen to create water? I'm expecting there to be heating or cooling involved, probably more likely heating. Would you light the two gases on fire? Or would they just automatically bond with each other at the point of contact? More importantly, would this be possible to acheive on the limited budget of a 14 year old hobbyist who *may* have access to *some* lab equipment, but probably not? Thanks for paying attention, if it's not feasible/possible, I won't mind if you nag about me never doing any reasonable projects. And also, how hard would it be to get the hydrogen and oxygen from electrolysis with losing too much of it?
Question by ALogan97 | last reply
The short version: I want to make hydrogen to fill model airship envelopes with, because screw helium. Help me make a cheap electrolysis device that can do this in under an hour (ideally), or come up with an even better system for production. My immediate problem is that I need a high-surface electrode that won't fail in a solution of sodium hydroxide.The long version:I've devoted a fair portion of my time to contemplating airships, primarily because they're awesome. Fell out of use with the rise of much faster aircraft, and the technology its fate sealed by the extraordinarily bad rep the Hindenburg gave it. It is still far from useless, however, in that lighter-than-air systems can lay claim to flight times measured in days, and sometimes months, thanks to the fact that they literally float in the air like a boat floats in water.Their day may have come and gone, but I still want to experiment with the technology and create some model airships of my own. Helium works okay as a lifting gas, but it remains expensive and isn't going to get any cheaper in the foreseeable future. It is for this reason that I am pursuing hydrogen, in the hope that I might be able to produce a cheap lifting gas for my projects. Unfortunately for my aspirations, hydrogen is surprisingly hard to get cheaply in decent quantities. Here's what I've figured out so far.For one, it is absurdly hard to find sites that don't veer into fringe science when talking about hydrogen. HHO production, Joe cells, power your car with water...it all keeps cropping up, and not only does none of this do what I want, the concepts are often poorly documented or riddled with problems. However, I have been able to glean some information from my research. First off, one of the easiest methods (and the one I'll be pursuing the most) of hydrogen production is through electrolysis. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept, you can basically take two electrodes, stick them in water, add some electrolyte (like regular table salt), and apply a decent voltage. You'll get hydrogen gas streaming out of the negative electrode and oxygen out of the positive electrode. Fancier systems use large tanks, platinum electrodes, and a strong acid or base as the electrolyte. To increase efficiency (yeah, it's not 100% efficient), there is ongoing experimentation with high-temperature electrolysis and ongoing research into an effective electrocatalyst.Now, when I did my research, I thought "Hey! This sounds easy! I'll just set the system up like explained, and away we go!" Unfortunately, those exclamation marks were unwarranted. My first attempt showed that production is mind-numbingly slow with small electrodes. Using salt had the wonderful side-effect of producing chlorine and sodium hydroxide, a.k.a. caustic soda. It's called that for a reason, and I'm lucky I didn't run it too long or I might have a chemical burn now. Now I know. Choosing a good electrode turns out to be a problem too, as most conductors oxidize quickly or dissolve in the solution (now I know why everybody uses platinum when possible). My aluminum foil electrodes in a sodium hydroxide solution? Yeah, that didn't work AT ALL. I had better luck with steel mesh, but I recently found that it seems to fail over time too. The only thing that isn't disappointing is the container and the collection apparatus: an inverted plastic bottle with some airtight hose running off it, connected to a gas valve. If the bottle is placed such that forming gas causes the internal water level to be lower than the external container water level, the gas will be pushed through the hose (no pumping necessary!). There was one good thing I discovered, however. Apparently there was a bit of soap or something left over in the container, and I ended up forming a bit of explosive foam as well. The hydrogen foam blows up like nothing else, and the oxygen foam makes a loud pop and sends (slightly) caustic foam all over the place. Totally useless but still somewhat cool, so long as you're not fool enough to do it in large quantities.So, as of right now, I've got a good container and collection system, but my electrodes suck and production rates are so low that it'd take me hours and hours to inflate a good-sized balloon anyway. I'll be using sodium hydroxide in the future as the electrolyte, skipping the chlorine production and observing the proper safety procedures. My top priority is finding a good electrode, my next is finding a good way to increase surface area, and my last is getting a higher voltage source than the 12V power supply I had lying around. Any ideas?
Topic by Cognoscan | last reply
Ok so I have this crazy idea to make a two stroke engine out of paper that runs on hydrogen and well ive allready built part of it just the piston head and cylider and stuff but if i lined the inside of the cylinder with tin foil would that be enoth to keep the paper from burning? and so ya anyways the engine of i have made allready is very sturdy each peace is 10 sheets of paper or more compressed for over 24 hours now the compression im not two worried about because its more of the sheer pop of the explosion that will push the piston down well i guess thats how it is anyways but if the gas ignites anyways with oxygen why have compression for this anyways because the explosion is going to be soooo small anyways that it wont really matter much. the overall size of the engine is about almost 2" tall by about 1" wide on the widest part the bottom . So um I know by now im classified as "CRAZy" but that asside can i get some opinions and ideas plz. thanks MRN
Topic by mrn | last reply
Im no chemist but I am interested in what volume in litres of water would be produced from 1 litre of liquid hydrogen if burnt in air. Of course it would evaperate and be disspersed but would be 8 litres? 2h2 + O2 = 2h2O I believe the chemical formular
Question by lrdforster | last reply
I have a case of 35% hydrogen poroxcide ???? I have a case of it siting in my garage and I dont want to throw it out
Question by west49rules | last reply
I am vaporizing saltwater and beaming focused radio waves to free hydrogen atoms that are collected by a small "cyclone" style vacuum cleaner and fed into a fuel cell that produces energy to my Vanguard Citicar (1975 electric car), the wave producer, the vacuum, and the battery bank. It fricking works!
Topic by kimos | last reply
Theoretically you can, but did anyone really do this with success ? Anyone knows of a link that has all the details for such a project ? I need to know how big the hydrogen generator should be and how to safely connect the hydrogen supply to the motor, how to mix the hydrogen with oxygen and what ratio, is it better to mix with pure oxygen or just normal air or maybe hydroxy just works fine ?! How to prevent firebacks... too many little details to be discussed.. so anyone has any usefull info just throw it at us please to try to make a really efficient 100% hydrogen powered car.
Question by Nick_Zouein | last reply
I want to make a mini hydrogen engine but dont have a big budget. i may also add an electric genorator to put on it for clean & green energy. please help.
Question by tzq33tdq | last reply
I am in India ,i have a fiat car i wanna convert that car make it run on hydrogen i dont mind few modifications .but can it be succesful in doing so .plzzzz help me on this .should we change the fuel container and all that stuff.the car is abt 10 years old .i found out that other car makers r making cars which run on h2 with same concept of IC engines
Question | last reply
I want to make a hydrogen balloon and am afraid rubber won't hold the gas in well enough. I was thinking I could make a balloon from a space blanket but am not sure how to connect the edges. I thought maybe I could fuse them with an Iron but am not sure. Will apreciate any help.
Question by nurdee1 | last reply
Hi, I need to create 96 volts and low variable amps... I don't know of any simple ways of doing this unless I spend lots of money.. So can I add some different dc power supplies to get to 96 volts dc? or is there another inexpensive way to make it happen? The purpose is for a large hydrogen generator, high volts, and low amps.. Thanks for your help... Bryan
Question by bboyden | last reply
Hello, I am working on a Hydrogen generation project. I am using a PWM (pulse width modulator) to control the Generator from going into thermal runaway. However, the current PWM's on the market dont offer temperature control. Only duty cycle control. So I need some help here. I need a way to control a potentiometer to increase or decrease resistance based upon a temperature range from 80 to 95 degrees. I dont want this to turn the unit off, only lower the duty cycle when the peak temp is reached. Then also, when the unit is cold on start up, it would release full amps into it until it reached it peak operating temp. The idea is to make a PWM control the generator via duty cycle (amperage draw) and temperature. Make it a "set it, and forget it" system. My thoughts are using two surface mount thermostatic switches. One for low limit the other for the high limit. Then a relay and another potentiaometer. Theory of operation: On initial start up, the generator is offered full amperage draw of 40 amps(100% duty cycle) until it reaches its operating temperature of 80 to 95 degrees. Once it reaches the peak of the operating temp the upper limit switch kicks open causing a relay to offer a differing resistance (80% duty cycle) that would effectively make the PWM still keep producing hydrogen, but cool down. When or if the lower limit of 80 degrees is reached the lower limit thermostat would close allowing again 100% duty cycle to the generator. Thus, this system would keep the generator operating at an optimal temperature at all times regardless of outside temperature, and conditions. Current PWM's require the user to manually get them set. If the outside temps are colder the system will work less effectively. If the outside temps are hotter the temps may cause thermal runaway. All operating conditions require the user to be constantly fiddling with, and keeping an eye on the amp draw, temps, and voltage. This means eyes not on the road while driving. Bad ju-ju. I'd like to make this device super simple to operate, and build. With off the shelf items, not custom IC's. Any ideas?
Question by ydeardorff | last reply
I have an electrode made of 304 SS that when hooked to a 12V automotive battery draws about 80A. That is WAY too much amps, and I want to boost the output voltage to 36 or more, and reduce the amps as low as possible. I plan to drive the flyback with a square wave generator. What do I need to know to wind my own coil: what core, size of wire for primary and secondary and how many turns of each? Thanks in advance. I've already found that an ignition coil will not work, unless you know of some way to adapt one so that it will.
Question by galveston | last reply
Okay, here is the deal. Me and a friend where thinking about filling two weather balloons( http://www.ebay.com/itm/GIANT-Weather-Balloon-Meteorological-Military-8-Dia-/330626487344?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4cfadfd430) with a lifting gas, sending it up with a camera and gps-cellphone. Now, we have everything else figured out but how to get hydrogen, as it is the lightest gas. Is there any way to produce those quantities of hydrogen within a 6-36 hours? I figure I'd ask here because there are quite a few hydrogen powered vehicles here.
Question by bretta | last reply
I know that hydrogen peroxide and alcohol equals well"whoomph", but what happens if I mix hydrogen peroxide and aluminium?
Question by flamesami | last reply
I am working on my own "hydrogen batteries" to create a lot of hydrogen when I need it as a replacement for those propane/butane canisters when camping or fishing. Got some simple prototypes working for the gas creation but do struggle a bit with converting some orifices (is that eve a word?) and a torch to work with hydrogen. Not to mention the pressure regulation LOL Biggest problem so far seems to be the flame temperature. The gas is produce at up to 50°C and my current burners all start to glow red hot after just a short amount of time. Where they struggle to braze copper with propane the hydrogen is almost overkill ROFL Must be really close to these yellow acetylen bottles the plumber use. So big questions: Do I really need a different orifice hole and if so bigger or smaller than used for propane/butane? Do I really need a acetylene rated torch or can I just ignore the orange red color of mine when using hydrogen? I don't think it will melt but after a while the heat travels down into the handpiece too...
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
I found this image that details a hydrogen fuel cell (reverse electrolysis). Does anyone know what materials are good for the porous anode and cathode? Is carbon porous on a molecular scale? I want to make a simple reverse electrolysis in order to use hydrogen power. I would appreciate any help. I got the image from here: http://www.greenoptimistic.com/simple-fuel-cell-build/#.VaLmC65Vikp
Question by mykiscool | last reply