Rocket Ignition Switch?

I have seen multiple high power rocket igniters, but none show you how to wire them.  I want to link three 9v batteries in a way that outputs 27v.  How do I do that.  Is the wiring (+|-|+|-|+|-) or (+|+|+|-|-|-)

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


Wireless Igniter?

I just recently made a pushbutton igniter system for lighting fireworks. ( a 9v battery goes through a momentary switch then to alligator clips which connect to the two wires coming off a Christmas light with the tip broken off. The end of the fuse goes in there and when the switch is pushed, the fuse lights) It works consistently without fault and I was wondering how I could make this remotly ignited. I understand that there is a way to just "replace" the momentary switch with some sort of receiver but I don't know where to go from there. If someone has knowledge of how you can do this or can redirect me to a sight with the parts I would need to accomplish this it would be greatly appreciated. thanks for the help   -flamethrower  

Topic by flamethrower1010   |  last reply


I need some help an an ignitor box (loook in details)? {REMADE}

Alrighti posted this before but it seemed like people didnt understand what was going on. Altight, we have a box and our first switch is a rolling switch (SWITCH 0) that is used to make sure that it only works if the box is closed. Then we have a series of 5 switches that are basic on off switches {SWITCH 2, 3, 4, 5, 6) and the switches are used for how many ignition we wish to do at one time but these switches have to be switched in order so example we cant turn on switch 3 without first flipping switch 2 and etc but these switches will light a light a soon as there flipped on still with the rule that the previous switch must be switched first also the switches run a positve current throu our first alligator clips of the ignition cords. then we have a main switch (SWITCH 7) that has a cover as a safety and this will also turn on a light and this switch will run current to our last switch (SWITCH 1) which is a momentary push switch that will run the negative current to the second alligator clips of the ignition cords thus setting off what was wished to be ignited. but we have the problem of the current bypassing (LOOK AT THE PICTURE) so therefore switch 7 isnt needeed bet yet it only is used to light up our (LIGHT 6) so we need to figure out how can we prevent this from happening without completely rendering our circut.

Question by bluejuice   |  last reply


keyless ignition ?

My car already has keyless door locks. I am just looking for a keyless ignition. Doesn't have to be the same system or fob as the windows and door lock. I can install a push-button ignition switch, but I want a security circuit like the newer cars that requires the presence of a fob (in your pocket) for the car to be able to start.  The instant on-off button isn't a problem, but you need everything that goes off when you would turn the key off to go off when you leave the car, not when you push the (on)-off button. It's going in a pristine old "93 Town Car that still has all it's bells and whistles working. I think working this into the existing door/window system would be a nightmare, so I'll keep it separate and be satisfied with a second fob. So, I need some help. Should this be a passive system sitting looking for an RFID or active with something like a bluetooth transmitter in my pocket? I know I can buy a kit, but there's no satisfaction in that. I'm not really constrained by a budget, but obviously I don't want to go over the market value of the car (tho it's worth a lot to me).

Question by bucephalis   |  last reply


Ignition switch for an electric bike in the UK.

Hi folks. Does anyone in the UK know a dealer who could supply an ignition switch/battery lock for a Thompson Classic electric bike? I've had a look around the interweb & ebay & cannot find a suitable replacement switch anywhere, there are plenty that would fit but none of them seem to be the correct one as they only have one "On" position the one I need has two, one is for pedal assisted & the second for fully powered. The switch also locks the battery box onto the frame it looks similar to the larger of these two on ebay. I have called the importers & their quote for a replacement carries an outrageous price compared to the third party ones I have seen at over eight times the price plus postage & although I expect to pay a bit more for a slightly more complex part I certainly don't expect it to be THAT MUCH more. I'm sure there must be other bikes that use similar switches but haven't as yet been able to find a dealer who can help. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance for your help. N.G.

Question by Nostalgic Guy   |  last reply


Ignition switch for an electric bike in the UK.

Hi folks. Does anyone in the UK know a dealer who could supply an ignition switch/battery lock for a Thompson Classic electric bike? I've had a look around the interweb & ebay & cannot find a suitable replacement switch anywhere, there are plenty that would fit but none of them seem to be the correct one as they only have one "On" position the one I need has two, one is for pedal assisted & the second for fully powered. The switch also locks the battery box onto the frame it looks similar to the larger of these two on ebay. I have called the importers & their quote for a replacement carries an outrageous price compared to the third party ones I have seen at over eight times the price plus postage & although I expect to pay a bit more for a slightly more complex part I certainly don't expect it to be THAT MUCH more. I'm sure there must be other bikes that use similar switches but haven't as yet been able to find a dealer who can help. Any suggestions would be gratefully received. Thanks in advance for your help. N.G.

Topic by Nostalgic Guy 


detonator/igniter parts

I want to create a list of detonator/igniter key parts parts and where to buy them. like nichrome wire, those switches that need a key to turn, fuses and other necessities

Topic by i make shooting things   |  last reply



How does a car key turn on a car?

I was wondering how the inside of a car "tumbler/ ignition" worked? How does it know that it is the right key? and Is there a switch to tell if the key has been turned? or is it some digital encoder?

Question by squirt8500   |  last reply


Where can I find cheap key switches?

I need a momentary key switch, like the ones in car ignition switches for an upcoming project. I also need one that toggles. Like these, but from a cheaper source.http://www.amazon.com/Key-Switch-with-2-Keys/dp/B0002BA3PE/ref=pd_sim_e_3http://www.amazon.com/Momentary-Key-Switch-2-Keys/dp/B0002ZPBHK/ref=pd_bxgy_e_text_b

Topic by Gamernotnerd   |  last reply


Does anybody knows the pinout of the steering harness on a 1989 GMC SIERRA ?

Hello, "Somebody" tried to steal my truck last night. He/They broke sliding rear window and destroyed the ignition switch on my poor truck. He/They bent the rod that goes to the "Steering Switch Harness". So I can Replace the whole steering column, or make a "Hidden key-less push-button ignition switch" But I don't know the wiring pin-out of the steering harness. I desperately need help with this. Thanks for reading and Helping. Also any creative suggestion will be appreciated. Mr. Lunna Xiii

Topic by mrlunna13   |  last reply


What would you include in YOUR detonator

What would you include in your detonator, to make it work, be safe, work better, be safer, make it look cool, make it easy to use, make it whatever you want

Topic by larsjet   |  last reply


I want to build a(quick simple design=least amount of parts)compact/portable inverter use a 9v battery making 22volts?

I always wanted to make a type of SILENT portable hand held lighter/ignition source that doesn't use flints or fuel that can ignite any firecracker fuses, cigarettes, or generate enough heat in a quick time. So what i did was part out my moms old 1875watt hair dryer that she burnt out the motor to and i kept the spring coils portion that used to make the air blown hotter. I cut a 1inch piece of them heat coils, mounted it to an old parted out lighter reservoir and wired the piece up with a momentary slider type switch on the side of the reservoir that is being my safe to the touch so i can hold portion -  to a cigarette car lighter type plug adapter and plugged it to my car battery jumper pack that has the cigarette lighter receptacle.(i did this as it was my only option to a DC type of power because at the time i didn't have batteries & unsure how much it would need) now i tested it by sliding the slider switch on and in less than 7seconds it had lit up bright orange and really hot. Okay cool its almost exactly what i wanted but i don't want to have to plug it in to anything or carry around a huge heavy battery pack. So i tried to connect a 9 volt battery to it since that would in fact make it compact & portable completing my design,  but when i push the slider switch to on it took really long to generate any heat(barely even lit up)and killed the battery after holding it on to get any type of heat for like 4-5minutes. I need it to lit up to its bright orange HOT in that 7seconds or less and i need or would like it to have longevity or more then 1 time use. http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p97/krax78/lighteridea.png

Question by KrAx   |  last reply


push switch to live multiple devices using relays

Hi all,            Im at a bit of a loss when it comes to electronics, im ok with the simple stuff but im better with mechanical engineering. Anyway if anyone can help me with my problem that would be great. Im attempting to install a push button ignition in my car, but with a difference, I know you can buy these kits online but its more fun doing it yourself. O.k so to my problem, as i said im attempting to install a push ignition, (so far all i have is the push to make momentary button) I need the button to: 1) push and hold the button until the car starts then let go, but when i push it, it will need to live ignition 2 (2nd click on the key) then pause for lets say 2 seconds then live the starter, when i let go of the button the starter will stop (the car will be started) and the ignition 2 will still be live 2) push the button again and the ignition 2 wire will stop having 12v and stopping the engine. I would also just like to do this with relays and not programming chips if possible. I have found a useful link but I cant get my head round the process of it. http://www.the12volt.com/relays/page5.asp so in summary I would need the relays to: 1)1st button press - give me 1 live output then 2 seconds later a 2nd live output, then when released the 2nd live will go and the 1st live will remain until I push the button again 2) 2nd button press - the second live will go thanks in advance

Topic by newbie308   |  last reply


Can you make a firework or rocket igniter from a microwave transformer?

For homemade kno3 rockets that are really hard to ignite(usually needs a lighter). If i were to guess id convert it to DC, run it through a 12 volt battery, Rig a switch. Just a thought it would be really cool if you could rig a cell phone to it stand far away and call it for ignition.

Question by cr1991   |  last reply


How to wire a 12v motor and limit switches to raise and lower a satnav panel in my car,using the ignition switch circuit

Hi, I'm trying to understand in a simplified diagram how to use a 12v motor to raise and lower a panel in my car,the hardware I can make fairly easily but it's the wiring I'm struggling with,I understand that 2 limit switches have to be used to stop and start the motor,also that the polarity of the motor has to be changed to raise and lower the panel, I also want to use the vehicles ignition switched circuit to raise and lower the panel as opposed to using a rocker switch, Any help in this matter would be greatly appreciated, Kind regards, Darren.

Question by Rallyingace   |  last reply


need to replace dash cam camera switch so that it will auto turn on with ignition

, as it is now it gets power but i need to push the on button to start the camera . i would also like to have it turn off auto, with a bypass, in case i want to keep the camera running with the ignition off ,but key in aux,, like a radio.. it has a battery that last about 15 minutes..

Question by escapefromyonkers   |  last reply


oil burner ignition transformer and uses question ? Answered

I recently just got a hold of a Allanson oil ignition transformer, the output voltage is 10,000 volts at 23 ma. the power cord was cut so i have to connect another power cord. what gauge or metal is recommended for the output terminals and can i attach a power switch to the 120 A.C. volt line. i was planning on starting off making a jacobs ladder then later on making a tesla coil after i have worked with high voltage a little bit longer are there any more uses for the high voltage transformer i have  

Question by MonstaM   |  last reply


Need a clock pulse switch circuit!

I cannot not for the life of me figure out how to make this circuit.  The circuit needs to do this: I push a button that sends a single signal to the circuit.  With each push of the button the circuit activates a seperate relay in sequence.  I need 6 relays to activate with 6 button pushes in sequence.  I know this is a very simple circuit to design.  I just can't figure it out nor find out how to make it. I'm not sure what the voltage of the relays coil should be.  My goal is to make bottle rockets launch off of my RC helicopter.  I'm going to use a 9vdc power source, a couple capacitors and some nichrome wire.  The relays are there so that each rocket launches seperately.  Hense the need for the circuit.   So with each push of the button on the transmitter...a seperate rocket is fired.  Thanks for any help ya'll.

Topic by rock0nman   |  last reply


Nitro Rc Glow Plug onborad glow plug ignition

So I'm relatively new to nitro rc and i had a few questions about on board glow plug ignition system  . I know the igniter is cheep and bla bla bla easy however... Can one be made ? I have often thought that i might be able to use a third channel off my receiver with a wire directly to the glow plug and at the flip of a switch the glow plug would ignite but i don't know if it would work and don't wanna spend the money on a receiver  to find out. Is there someone out there willing to give it a go and let me know?  Really my question would be at what voltage does a glow plug ignite? would a 7.2 volt battery do the trick? Are there any CHEEP systems out there?

Topic by telmore   |  last reply


How to change 12v outlet from always on to turn on and off with ignition

I have a 94 gmc sonoma sle 4.3L V6 and I wanted to make the outlets turn on and off with the ignition but I don't know how to do it exactly. I have 3 outlets which are always hot (have power), and I would like to be able to at least make them all turn on and off with the ignition. But it would be nice if I could choose which individual outlets I want to have on all the time and which ones I want to turn on and off with the ignition, this would be done with either a switch of some sort or have the ability to move the respective fuse over as if it were a jumper.

Topic by SLIMDADDYC   |  last reply


analog demultiplexing?

Is it a good idea to use just a single DAC to produce 2 or more separate analog outputs? I do not need super fast updating rate, but I do need precision. My DAC is a old but pretty cool looking DAC71, of which I have like a handful. It has a 16 bit parallel interface (which is a REAL PAIN) and a CC output. Placing a small resistor on the output of that gives me a voltage range. To interface it to an arduino, I used two 74C164 shift registers so that I only use 2 pins on the arduino. (one for clock, the other for data). However, the DAC does not have an updating rate, it is kinda analog in that respect. Because of that, you can see all the garbage from the shift register outputs while data is being shifted in. My current solution to this problem was to use a spare TL601 analog switch and a 3rd wire from the arduino to "mask" the updating period when data is being shifted into the registers. This worked well, until the wire popped out and came into contact with +12V rail, killing arduino pin 10. :(  so sad, it was literally a brand new arduino clone... In a similar fashion that the output of a single ignition coil in a car is fed into a distributor to distribute voltage to the correct spark plugs, is it OK to use a few more analog switches to do some interlacing? Are there things that I potentially have not considered? My idea is that after data for, say, output A has been shifted into the 2 registers, the arduino will activate switch A and (through a buffer amp) charge a capacitor up to the same voltage, then turn switch A off while shifting in data for output B, then activating switch B to allow the capacitor to charge up to that voltage, and again the switches turn off to let new data for output A shift in, and the process repeats. The capacitors will "remember" what voltage they held during the off period, as sort of analog memory. I think the updating rate will take a hit, but oh well.

Question by -max- 


spark plug

Is there any way i could use a spark plug to ignite fireworks from a remote distance...i have about 80' of insulate wire and some electric on/off toggle switches/boxes.

Topic by pyroboy5   |  last reply


key-less entry / key-less ignition (arduino based)

Hey guys, I want to make a key-less ignition and a key-less entry on my car. I have no doubt that arduino can be the core for this system. as of now, I am thinking of using arduino UNO to control everything and an RFID unit for the key-less entry. I know that there are many types of RFID, some for sensing close like tags or cards, and some for larger distance like 10 to 20 ft. the one I need will have to be able to read a module from around ten feet of the vehicle. I am debating whether to automatically unlock the vehicle when the module is within range or put a button on the door handle and trunk so that they will unlock if the key is in range. I decided that the push button ignition will include a toggle for ignition and a push button for start. The ignition switch will be wired through a relay so that the arduino can "enable" ignition when the key is present. I want all redundant systems so I will wire the ignition in parallel so the stock key will still start and run the car. I post this for advice, comments, and any improvements you guys can think of. My budget is $200 maximum. My goal is to make it for under $150. Any help would much appreciated. - Jordan

Question by gen.badger   |  last reply


I need some help an an ignitor box (loook in details)?

Me and my brother had built an ignition box (1st project) that can be used for rockets and fireworks we sucsessfully had gotten the box to launch. Then we had the idea to add 6 volt lights and an organized switch setup. But we came across the issue of the circut bypassing our negative lead for our 6 light by the positive lead from the 5 light going to switch 1 so therefore basicly switch 7 isnt needed exept to light-up light 6. So now we need help on how to prevent this issue from happening. please help and thanx- Jarred

Question by bluejuice   |  last reply


I need some help an an ignitor box (loook in details)?

Me and my brother had built an ignition box (1st project) that can be used for rockets and fireworks we sucsessfully had gotten the box to launch. Then we had the idea to add 6 volt lights and an organized switch setup. But we came across the issue of the circut bypassing our negative lead for our 6 light by the positive lead from the 5 light going to switch 1 so therefore basicly switch 7 isnt needed exept to light-up light 6. So now we need help on how to prevent this issue from happening. please help and thanx- Jarred

Question by bluejuice   |  last reply


Anyone know how i can remove a Torx screw out without a torx driver?

I need to remove 2 large torx screws but i dont have the driver. any suggestions?

Question by littlebastard   |  last reply


I burn my arduino nano 😭

This is my very very very first arduino project. I followed the attached CDI schematic and tested it on breadboard by connecting USB cable to my computer to test LCD, Button Switch, Brake switch (D2 on nano), (except the relay) everything works fine, until i solder it and test it on my bike, after i turn on the ignition key switch +12v , and pulled the brake switch, the smoke come out from the nano (overheat ??? ) , and now got 2 red led light on nano, ( i think i already killed it 😅). Not sure where i done it wrong, can you guys give me some advice so i can correct it?

Question by Diy_world   |  last reply


Switching 12V circuit using power from USB port

Hello friends,My car's cigarette lighter/charging socket (12V) always remains ON, even after locking the car. But the pen-drive attached to its music system gets activated only when car is in accessory mode or its ignition is turned ON. What basically I want is to turn charging socket (12V) ON as soon as music system gets activated and should be turned OFF as soon as music system gets deactivated(Upon exiting from car).With a little knowledge of electronics I know that USB's are powered with 5V DC. Can someone help me to use this USB power to trigger 12V lighter circuit? I feel this can be done using some Transistor (probably NPN). Which transistor should be used and what will be its circuit diagram?Thanks..

Question by VinayS95 


Seat belt fastened circuit

I have designed a circuit the intent of which is to control the seat belt fastened light on the dash.  There are two switches.  1. A pressure switch that closes when someone is in the seat.  2. A Reed switch that closes when the seat belt latch is latched.   Each works correctly separately.  I am using a standard 12V automotive relay to control the light, as below.  Let's just look at one side. 1. When the ignition on the 12V wire connects to the two leads, i.e., the pressure switch and the reed switch. 2. When someone sits in the seat the pressure switch closes and the dash light, which is connected to the relay at 30 and 87A comes on (relay not activated).  3. When the seat belt is latched, the reed switch closes, the relay switches and the current between 30 and 87A turns off. Diodes are introduced in the circuit as shown in the diagram.  The problem is that is does not work correctly.  Sit in the seat and the light comes on.  Buckle the latch but the light does not go off. There is still 12V between 87A and 30, but I don't know why.  I also tried putting a diode between 85 and 86 (pointing towards 86) but that did not help.  Suggestions please.

Topic by DaleR18 


Can I use an ignition coil to run the primary coil of my tesla coil? Answered

Alright, I ask that everyone please read everything in this question before answering :).  I hopefully going to be very thorough.  I am building a tesla coil and am just about to give up and buy a NST.  I have many high voltage sources laying around, but, so far I haven't had much luck.  The first plan was to use a large ballast (florescent light) to drive a flyback, but it was to powerful, so I got a CFL driver, and it didn't work (not the driver so much as the whole project)  so now I am left with an ignition coil.  I know that I can use a light dimmer switch to power it, but it will still be 60hz I think and I here that is not safe for a tesla coil.  Although, I don't think anyone is going to let high frequency and voltage arc across their skin anyway.  So will something at this low of a frequency still work to power a tesla coil.  If not do you have any ideas I can use.  I have a flyback transformer and an ignition coil so any ideas that come to mind please share.

Question by jj.inc   |  last reply


With an electromagnet, if there's a open reed switch betwen 1 end of the coil's wire & powersource, will e-mag get hot?

I'm building an electromagnet. The core is soft iron: 0.5" diameter and 1" long.  AWG 12 wire OR enameled copper magnet wire 32 gauge So the wire is wrapped around the core. One wire end leads to a reed switch which connects to one of the two wires of the 9 volt snap-on battery clip. The other wire end connects straight to the 9 volt snap-on battery clip with nothing in between. Will the wire end that connects directly to the 9 volt snap-on battery clip: A.) use powers and drain the battery B.) heat up the electromagnet (wire & core) If the electromagnet heats up, then how hot does it get? Just warm or really warm? Could it reach hot or HOT levels - hot enough to burn skin, damage any part of the electromagnet, or ignite/melt the carpet (if it was on it)?   P.S.  The final device would have no exposed wires. Thanks.

Question by gatorgirl7563   |  last reply


wiring help

Im working on a fireworks show and i just bought 25 toggle switches and led's from a garage sale for 5 bucks.. never opened still in packaging. how would i wire all this up to show when its armed a light would show on each channel.. im using this thing to ignite the bigger fire works (2 per switch)... i got around 360' of extra red insulated wire laying around from the shop i work at in the summer becasue they are throwing/giving away. any advice i also got a few rca and 1/8' male and femail jacks and a few push buttons from salvaged things... could i also use the thingys from cameras that put out 330 volts i have a few of those. you can contact me on meesenger also at:deer_hunt05@hotmail.com

Topic by pyroboy5   |  last reply


Help requested for purchase of components

Hi. I'm a newbie to embedding but I have a project that needs this and there is no commercially available solution that I can find so I need to learn how to build it myself. This can and will be done in modules... I figure I can tackle one task at a time until I end up with a complete working system, but use the system in the meant time, as I get it completed. The main goal is for an electric motorcycle conversion dashboard,  which will include a password protected relay switch "ignition key" to power the vehicle on securely (Task #1), a user configurable display to show speedometer, odometer, tripometer, clock, battery pack voltage, motor rpm/temp, controller temp, coolant temp, etc via a waterproof rugged tablet (probably a Windows 10 tablet, probably with an Android emulator installed). I'm finding that there are so many different options available, I don't know what to purchase. I want to spend my hard earned money wisely and just buy what I need the first time. Instead of learning the "hard" way, I want to learn the "smart" way. Please help me get started. Thank you in advance!

Topic by Stevonator   |  last reply


Water-damaged PCB repair

So water leaked in to the General Electronic Module (GEM) on my pickup and now it's acting all funny. A/C runs when the ignition is off, randomly switching to 4L, airbag light chattering on and off, etc. I want to try and repair it. My intuition is that it just acts up when there's stray conductivity between traces/elements, so if I give it a good clean and keep it dry it should work like new.However, I noticed upon pulling it apart that there's some corrosion taking place. Can anyone suggest a good way to repair these traces/SMD resistors? I have a soldering iron but heavily oxidized things don't take solder well in my experience. Or should I just put some lacquer on it and not worry about it?Thanks!

Topic by RelaxedSoup   |  last reply


Electrical wiring and charging system help? Answered

Im working on a electrical upgrade for a power wheel.  Im hoping someone can take a look at it and tell me if it looks ok, or if they see a problem with it. The mod keeps the 12V 12Ah system, but adds an additional 6V 1200Ah SLA Battery wired through a realy to allow a 18V boost when the Switch is triggered momentarily.  Ive also attempted to add the following features: -6V Battery meter for (NOS) Battery -12V Battery Meter -2 Remote fired Nerf Guns -2 Small front speakers with a 3.5mm jack and a usb portfor an MP3 Player -2 working switch activated headlights -2 working switch activated fog lights -2 working brake lights -18V nos Button for a momentary boost I have it drawn to use a 12V charger and a 6V charger, because the batteries will obviousely drain at different rates.  I only have a basic knowledge of how relays work.  My biggest concern is the chargers.  Will they charge the Vehicle the way they are, or do I need to add another relay so that when a charge is detected i t disconnects the "ignition".  Also if I have all of the voltages correct.  the regulator breakdowns are on the right along with the relay info.  Thank you for any help you can provide. EDIT: Added another drawing for some updated ideas. 3/11/13: I know that the DPDT coils are only getting 6V.  ignore the DPDT part number and specs.  i was able to find 6V DPDT relays. -Also added three supporting photos, charging, run mode, accessory mode.  (Black lines have no connection in supporting pics, except main ground, which is also black) - Had to redraw, the DPDT's I found could only handle 15A per contact, and im pretty sure the motors alone draw around 18A.  So back to lots of SPDT's 3/12/12: Heres a schematic for the main system stopping at the terminal board.  im not worried about the lights and accessories, those i know how to wire,  Please let me know if this will work.  I apologize in advance, im not very good at drawing schematics, thats why i stick to drawing the physical layout.

Question by supramp   |  last reply


Need I.D. on Circuit Board Items

I took one of my old laser guns apart a little while ago, but I'm not very tech-savvy. I took these pictures (very sorry about the bad exposure, blur, and quantity, I'm a bit tired) to see if any of y'all could help me. All I know right now is: There are two circuit boards (one from the gun, one from the vest that you shoot) The cone-shaped black thing is the IR diode There is a receptor on the vest for the IR (no duh, right?) There are quite a few resistors and capacitors There are quite a few switches and push-button ignitions (used for starting games) There is a speaker Things I would like to know: Is the speaker perhaps of any quality, say, for amplifying songs? What are those semi-circle shaped black things, under them on the circuit board it says something along the lines of Q3? The capacitors say 10v on them. (One even says 25v on it.) Does that mean it handles 10v? What is the best way to remove the solder from the wires and board so I can usify (my own word) the parts? What is the yellow box-shaped object on the smaller circuit board (you can see it in the fourth. sixteenth, and last picture)? What is the circular metallic object on the larger board (seen best on the twelfth picture)? Thanks for all and any help!

Topic by Bran   |  last reply


Wanting to design a cree led powered dock rechargeable torch running on 18650 cells

Hi all, I had an idea the other day that it would be very useful to have a powerful torch in my van that is kept charging in a dock all the time (as required at least) when the engine is running.I know I can get similar torches that charge via a USB cable, and that I could plug the cable into a cigarette lighter socket etc, but what I would like to do is as follows:Power from a 12v (ignition switched) source in vehicle, to a charging dock.Torch must be powered by 18650 lithium-ion cells (2 ideally).Torch would run a cree (or cree style) powerful LED chip/diode (maybe up to 10w arbitrary power).Torch does not need to have a wire plugged into it, but can be simply placed into the dock after use in order to resume charging. The connector for charging is not important but likely a jackplug type arrangement, or else spring terminals.Housing will be 3D printed, and using a lens from an existing torch (probably).So mostly I'm happy about making and designing this, except that I'm not certain about what setup (either the circuit design if bespoke or what off the shelf module etc) I should use for taking 12v to charge 2x 18650 cells in situ.I have got small USB charging modules already, and I have things like voltage boosters/reducers, and tons of electronic components, but the USB charge module is no use for using with a 12v supply etc, so I'm not sure how to best address this part of the project.If anyone has suggestions on good ways to accomplish this I'd be really grateful, thanks!

Topic by Mr Joshua   |  last reply


Memories.....like the corners of our minds......

Some fond memories: How many do you remember ?Head lights dimmer switches on the floor.Ignition switches on the dashboard.Heaters mounted on the inside of the fire wall.Real ice boxes.Pant leg clips for bicycles without chain guards.Soldering irons you heat on a gas burner or an open hearth.Using hand signals for cars without turn signals.Older Than Dirt Quiz:Count all the ones that you remember, NOT the ones you were told about! Your ratings at the bottom. 1. Blackjack chewing gum 2. Wax Coke-shaped bottles with colored sugar water 3. Candy cigarettes 4. Soda pop machines that dispensed glass bottles 5. Coffee shops or diners with tableside juke boxes 6. Home milk delivery in glass bottles with cardboard stoppers 7. Party lines 8. Newsreels before the movie 9. P.F. Flyers10. Butch wax11. Telephone numbers with a word prefix (OLive-6933)12. Peashooters13. Howdy Doody14. 45 RPM records15. S&H; Green Stamps16. Hi-fi's17. Metal ice trays with lever18. Mimeograph paper19. Blue flashbulb20. Packards21. Roller skate keys22. Cork popguns23. Drive-ins24. Studebakers25. Wash tub wringersIf you remembered 0-5 = You're still youngIf you remembered 6-10 = You are getting olderIf you remembered 11-15 = Don't tell your age,If you remembered 16-25 = You're older than dirt ! (PS: This is me :-) )I might be older than dirt but those memories are the best part of my life.'Senility Prayer'...God grant me...The senility to forget the people I never liked;The good fortune to run into the ones that I do,And the eyesight to tell the difference.''Hey Dad,' one of my kids asked the other day, 'What was your favorite fast food when you were growing up ? ' 'We didn't have fast food when I was growing up,' I informed him. 'All the food was slow.''C'mon, seriously. Where did you eat ?''It was a place called 'at home, I explained. 'Grandma cooked every day and when Grandpa got home from work, we sat down together at the dining room table, and if I didn't like what she put on my plate I was allowed to sit there until I did like it.'By this time, the kid was laughing so hard I was afraid he was going to suffer serious internal damage, so I didn't tell him the part about how I had to have permission to leave the table. But here are some other things I would have told him about my childhood if I figured his system could have handled it:Some parents NEVER owned their own house (my Dad did, it cost him $14,000 for a 3 bedroom rancher), wore Levis , set foot on a golf course, traveled out of the country or had a credit card. In their later years they had something called a revolving charge card. The card was good only at Sears Roebuck. Or maybe it was Sears AND Roebuck. Either way, there is no Roebuck anymore. Maybe he died.My parents never drove me to soccer practice. I had a bicycle that weighed probably 50 pounds, and only had one speed, (slow). We didn't have a television in our house until I was 8. It was, of course, black and white, but they bought a piece of colored plastic to cover the screen. The top third was blue, like the sky, and the bottom third was green, like grass. The middle third was red. It was perfect for programs that had scenes of fire trucks riding across someone's lawn on a sunny day. Some people had a lens taped to the front of the TV to make the picture look larger. I was 14 before I tasted my first pizza, it was called 'pizza pie.' When I bit into it, I burned the roof of my mouth and the cheese slid off, swung down, plastered itself against my chin and burned that, too. It's still the best pizza I ever had.We didn't have a car until I was 9. Before that, the only car in our family was my grandfather's Ford. He called it a 'machine.' It started by pushing a button on the dashboard. I never had a telephone in my room. The only phone in the house was in the living room and it was on a party line. Before you could dial, you had to listen and make sure some people you didn't know weren't already using the line.Pizzas were not delivered to our home. But milk was.All newspapers were delivered by boys and all boys delivered newspapers. I delivered a newspaper, six days a week. It cost 7 cents a paper, of which I got to keep 2 cents. I had to get up at 4 AM every morning.. On Saturday, I had to collect the 42 cents from my customers. My favorite customers were the ones who gave me 50 cents and told me to keep the change. My least favorite customers were the ones who seemed to never be home on collection day.Movie stars kissed with their mouths shut. At least, they did in the movies. Touching someone else's tongue with yours was called French kissing and they didn't do that in movies. I don't know what they did in French movies. French movies were dirty and we weren't allowed to see them.Growing up isn't what it used to be, is it ?MEMORIES from a friend:My Dad is cleaning out my grandmother's house (she died in December) and he brought me an old Royal Crown Cola bottle. In the bottle top was a stopper with a bunch of holes in it. I knew immediately what it was, but my daughter had no idea. She thought they had tried to make it a salt shaker or something. I knew it as the bottle that sat on the end of the ironing board to 'sprinkle' clothes with because we didn't have steam irons. Man, I am old.

Topic by Goodhart   |  last reply


Ceiling fan generator mod to the max

I stubled upon several mods to convert a standard ceiling fan into a more or less usefull generator.So if you are looking to go this route then I might have some nice improvements that can be implemented.People like these mods for some weird reason, despite the fact that it requires quite a bit of extra work to make them weather proof.However, when it comes to the fundamentals then to me it looks like some folks out there are missing out.On the available power that is...Always the first step for a mod like this is to replace the induction ring with a lot of magnets.Second step usually is to remove a lot of the coils, especially the inner ring.Now, these two stator designs are common for fans with two speeds.Those with three or even reverse might have a different configuration!Lets start on the magnet part:The recommended way of placing the magnets is by creating an air gap as small as possible - makes sense.But then it is always the same amount of magnets as there is coils - and the spacing is also the same as for the coils.In the general generaotr design world this configuration is prefered as it allows for the best performance.If you dare to go a bit further and cosider how the magnets react to the stator configuration then you might want to consider a different option.You see, these two sets of coils for two different speeds mean just one thing:A different amount of poles is created, with the outer ring having more poles than the inner ring of coils.The core is split around the coils, not just to allow the windings to be made but also to provide independent paths for the magnetic field - resulting in the two pole configurations.Amounts differ by diameter, power level, manufacturer and so on.What is always the same is that the inner ring has less coils and that the outer segments of the poles created have even spacings.In the normal mods you see posted these gaps in the core for the outer ring are closed by inserting lamitaed pieces from some old transformer.And you end up with ONE usable coil configuration and ONE power output.The slightly advanced mod uses the inner coil to add some load depending on the speed to prevent spinning out of control in high winds.If you try a normal DC motor with permanent magnets than you will notice the strong binding forces, it is like the rotor sticks in certain places.The better ones use and uneven configuration to reduce this binding effect ;)In my mod the magnets are selected in size to almost be the same length as two stator poles next to each other.This allows for the best induction while still allowing "to experiment".Bringing the magnets and the coils into play...As said an exact match of the number of magnets to either coil ring is not ideal.The prefered option is to go somewhere in between.For example:Outer ring has 18 coils then the inner ring will have 9 coils - exactly half.360° divided by 15 make a nice 24 degress per magnet.But with 12 magnets you get an even 30°, which is far easier to deal with.16 magnets at 22.5° is another option.So, what does that exactly do for us?The bad thing is we get slightly less performance if you only see the standard mod with one coil ring.The good thing we get far lower binding forces and through that the thing will even spin in very light winds.Adding both coil rings with a suitable rectifier however results in a pulsing output of two sine waves.With just the rectifier we get a ripple that is easier to deal with through a capacitor.The extra power available is in the range of about 40% and make more than up for the "reduced" amount of magnets.Going the extra mile once more ;)Having created a much fancier ceiling fan mod now you might wonder if there is not a way to get even more out of it.And there is.For example by utilising a gear system or belt to get a far higher rotational speed on the generator than what the blades would provide, prefably then with quite big blades too and an automatic break for high wind conditions.With the reduced binding forces the generator will be happy to spin at quite high speeds in low winds.Downside is that you will need to build a far more sturdy bearing housing.In return though you get more stability and durability.You can do the math yourself based on the number of poles per ring and magnets to get the output frequency based on the RPM's.Perfect would now be to use a switch mode power supply configuration to directly transform the provided output into a stable DC per ring.And yes, it is possible to use mechanical systems to provide a fixed output speed from the blades to the generator - but way to complex and lossy!Lets do some lame math with no regards to realities:If the original fan would spin at 100 RPM at full speed than we could say our generator should provide the mains voltage at about 100 RPM.Keep in mind we utilise both coil rings and not just the high speed one!Geared and with the blades spinning at 100 RPM we might get as much as 1000V from this little generator....And even with the lower amount of magnets we migh see frequencies above the 500Hz range.The good thing now is that normal iron core transformers can still operate at these frequencies.A bit lossy in the upper range but acceptable for the purpose.Put simple: A 10 or 20:1 transformer per coil ring would provide us with a far more suitable output voltage and much higher amps.If you made it to here than you certainly wonder about other magnet configurations.Checking the stator configuration you will by now realise why I selected the magnet lenght accordingly.The magnets "activate" one coil after the other.The spacing between them means there is always some overlap where the magnets only cover one half of the stator for a coil.This is ok because we don't really have to worry about the resulting messy output.Ideally though you would want to have a magnet activate both coils, the inner and the outer at the same time.What we did though was to make sure that at no time more than ONE magnet fully covers more than ONE coil!It is the best option to cover both coil sets while minimising binding effects and increasing the avialable output.To go the last step you would need to invest a lot of time re-winding all coils :(You don't want to do this unless you have the means and no friends and family that might miss you for a few days....I found a far simpler way to change the coil configuration, although it is not as good a re-winding.So let's go full scale shall we?Ceiling fan reconfiguration!If you take the usual 18 to 9 configuration than one thing jumps to mind reight away: 3-phase power!Cutting the wire that goes from coil to coil might not always be possible and if it is then you need to know how to handle it.Magnet wire can be hard to solder.Burning the coating off results in corroded copper that is even harder to solder.If you are lucky though than a reall hot soldering irong will be able to melt the coating.The flux from the solder will start to cover the wire from the cut and the solder will follow.If not then using some fine sandpaper and time is the other option to remove the coating...Ok, you seperated all coil and have two wire ends per coil?I hope you did not cut off the ones going out to the actual connections to the outside world ;)Properly solder each wire end and take your time to check it is really proper and not just a few spots.Mark or number the coils on the rings!For the inner ring we have 9 but need only 3, so we start at one connection to the outside world and check if this connection is on the outside or inside of the coil.For this example I assume you picked the one that goes to the outside of the coil.Connect the inside wire to the outside wire of coil number 3, assuming we start with 1 here ;)From the inside wire of 3 you go to outside of 6 and the inside is you first new output connection.Do the same with the remaining 6 coils and where needed add the required output wire.It really helps to have wires with three different colors here, one color per new coil set.Note which color corresponds to to the three coils used!!!The outer ring with 18 coils is sightly different here.You see, we want a "flowing" magnetic field that makes best use of the new coil configuration!We can not simply bridge them in any way we feel like without considering how this might affect the electrical side of things.As we now take the approach of a three phase system it makes sense to use a more suitable magnet configuration as well.So before go to the outer ring of coils lets have a look of the best option for the magnets first:The stator packs are evenly spaced in our example and will alow us to use 18 magnets.This provides the best performance with the downside of a higher binding effect, but we need this configuration to get the best possible output.As said at the start I selected magnets that are just shy of being the same length as the corresponding stator segments.In a "free" setup these magnets would now be quite hard to place in a makeshift ring.Even harder in the original casing.A 3D printer certainly helps but some common sense too ;)Wood is easy to work with and if you select the right stuff than making a suitable ring to hold your magnets and attach to the drive system metal parts is not too hard.Bar or brick type magnets can be quite easy be utilised on a wood setup :)The key is that you add Flux Capacitors - sorry couldn't help the reference to Marty....What I mean is to add some magnetic material between the north pole of one magnet and the south pole of the other.Lets say your magnets are 15mm long and have a spacing of 5mm.Then a little plate of 12mm would be next to perfect.This plate needs to connect the magnets on the backside, the side facing away from the coils.Use a dremel tool or what you have to first create slots for the metal strips or bars, then the same for the magnets.Glue in the metal first and once set add the magnet, making sure the always go north to south with their alignment.Ok, and what does this do for us?I hope you are not one of these persons who starts building while reading...What we created now is a shortcut for the magnetic forces.The field between the magnets is severly compromised in terms of being usable for the coils.We do get a much soother run though...I only did that to have some fun and check if you paid attention - sorry :(What we really want is an effect similar to what you see on a loadspeaker magnet that is still in its metal shielding.A ring magnet with one pole on the inside and one on the outside is used here.The shielding provides a path for the magnetic field that is not going through the speaker coil - hence the little air gap for the coil.If we do the same then our efficiency will be going up quite a bit.Take two identical steel parts, like some butter knifes, and prefarbly a force gauge.If you try to pull your magnet at a 90° angle from the blade you will get a certain reading for the required force to lift it off.Most people now think that this would be the max a magnet can hold.So take the other knife and place the magnet between them.If you pull the knife off with the gauge now the reading will be higher than what you get from just the magnet ;)Taking that to our model and keeping the field lines in mind we now know that we could even use slightly longer plates if our magnets happen to be a bit short :)Just place them right behind each magnet !Back to the outer ring of coils....With 18 magnets we get an even system for both coil rings.However we want to make sure that our output waves are syncronised and not at random order.We need to combine two coils to be back on a 9 coil configuration as on the inner ring.The other option is to provide two sets of outputs for outer ring, resulting in 3 3-phase outputs.Both have their pros and cons....But if you check the 18 magnet configuration ina ction over the coils it becomes clear that combining two coils the usual way is possible but also that our inner ring does not get a proper north south action from the magnets!Only the outer coil ring works properly!For the inner ring we never get only a north south combo, instead a lot of mixes.Did I mention to read first? ;)Of course we can only use 9 magnets in our configuration, but at least I did not traick you on their size....You see, we need to account for the fact that the coils are not just evenly spaced but also that all configurations in terms of coils to stator pack are doubles or halfs.Makes a lot more sense if you know how these asyncronous motors work :)With 9 magnets we actually get both inner and outer ring coils activated properly.Plus we now have the benefit that there are always twoouter coils in sync with each other.Means apart from the same way you wired the inner ring you make this addition to the outer ring:"One" outer coil is created by going from one coilinner connection to the outer connection of the second after this, skipping one coil.The resulting output is again just 3 phases but with double the output voltage.The key is to again take notes of how you connect and wire the coils - and the colors used for the output wires!Let me give you an example for the correct order:I we take the number 1 coil on the inner ring then coils number 1 and 18 would be next to it on the outer ring.You want to combine 1 and 3, 2 and 4, 5 and 7,....And you want the resulting three coil packs and wires colores to correspond to the inner coils in the same order!That is true for the always same way of combining coils from the inner to outer connection - or the other way around but never mixed!Ok, we have done the magnets and the coil configuration now properly, no jokes this time!With two simple 3-phase rectifiers we get two DC outputs that can be combined or used seperately.As we end up with roughly double the output voltage on one output but all coils are the same it makes sense to treat them independly.For those who wonder why:If you add a load than one coil system would take a higher loading of it.Meaning while one coil set is stll fine the other will already start to overheat - if the load is too great.So we use two rectifiers with some filtering.In the basic form just a really big electrolytic capacitor of suitable voltage or a full LC filer system with multiple stages.Either way we can now utilise some better DC-DC converters to get going.Considering the equal max watss the coil rings can handle it make sense to include some current limiting.A good converter will provide this option.Both converters can now set to the desiered output or with some added protection diodes and adjusted properly to the same voltage combined for just one DC output.Compared to the standard mod of removing coils and bridgning stator packs the resulting output power in overall Watt will now be about 40-60% higher - depending on the model and quality of parts.Special words of wisdom:Consider the orignal max speed of the fan when used as intendet - see this as a theoretical max output that equals your mains voltage.Just ignore losses and such things - better to be safe than sorry.It becomes clear that it quite possible that your output will be far higher than mains voltage and that you need use transformers for the two 3-phase systems so you can use standard DC-DC converters, which have a max input voltage of around 50V only.This means your converter must be able to handle the higher amps!The fan might have only used 100W or less than 500mA but at high speeds and a ratios of lets say 10 to 1 for the gearing high wind speeds might get it up to over 5 amps on the transformer outputs.Please do the math first for your gear system in relation to the max wind speeds you want to use with your blades!If in doubt use a converter that has some reserves to offer, especially if you aim to charge batteries as quickly as possible.The most vital part however is to ensure that all previously cut wires are isulated properly!!!Magnet wire of the standard kind is good for about 1000V max, so don't drive it higher!Heat shrink with a hot glue liner is prefered but hard to apply in these thight spaces.Since nothing moves consider using long enough wires for your connections so you have enough space to solder without affecting the heat shrink tubes.Liquid insulation or rubber is the last option and should only be used to finalside the heat shrink security measures.Best option once all is confirmed to be working fine would be to make a custom mold and to fully enclose the staotr pack and wires with casting resin or an insulating casting mix.Make sure to keep the output wirese free at the their ends ;)What if I don't want to build a complicated three phase rectifier and just use a single phase system as it was?Firstly chances are your coils are already connected in a three phase configuration, just all in series.But working out a suitable magnet configuration to suit this is much harder if you want to use both sets of coils.In a series configuration like the original you also have to accept the losses from these connected coils.The higher the overall resistance the lower the possible output ;)Main problem however is to get the magnet working properly.The standard 9 or here even 18 magnet configurations still works, especially with the added shielding from behind.But the coils also produce a magnetic field, which grows with the load.Means that an top of all you also have the coils working against the magnets and create even higher losses.Explains why the simple folks prefer not use the inner coil set if they go with a single phase system.So either accept the losses and just use the outer coils or do it fully and get far mor output.And by the way: a 3-phase rectifier modlue is only a few cents more than a standard bridge rectifier ;)Ok, and why do I bother to write all this?People like to tinker but most don't really invent.Following some simple instructions is easy, trying to work it yourself much harder.The reward however is that you actually start to know what you are doing :)And what works for a ceiling fan can be used for these ring style washing machine motors too ;)Anyways...We need to get back our roots.Start thinking for ourself again, work things out instead of just looking them up.If people would be aware that a simple ceiling fan could provide about 3 times the output power of its rated installation value instead of only just about half......Super strong magnets allow real output even without re.winding all coils.And what works here works for other things too.We only learned to use magnets in a striaght way because we can not bend them.But we can bed the magnetic field lines to our advantage!The simple shielding used in this mod is nothing more than a shortcut to enhance the field strenght where it is is needed.By a simple coil modification we basically bet two electrical generators for the price and size of one.Apart from stating how easy it would be to place multiple stators and magnet rings into one generator the magnets itself also allow for even more output.If you ever played with hook magnets or speaker magnets then you know how much stronger they are compared to just the magnet once they seperate after hours of fun for you.Imagine you would replace the single bar magnet with two block magnets that are joined by a magnetic shunt like out simple shielding before.If the magnet blocks now would have a slightly smaller footprint than your individual poles:Imagine you create a hlaf ring shaped magnetic connection between the two blocks that also goes aruond the outer perimeter up to the outside of the magnets surface?I mean the surface facing the stator poles?Damn your imagination is good, yout it right away!Of course we would then have a magnet that allpies its full strength focussed onto each pole of a coil!And of course the resulting field would be far stronger than just using the magnet blocks itself and still significantly higher than just adding a shielding or connection between them.The affect of the next coil coming is also drastically reduced, which in return also increases the efficiency.In terms of numbers:If a fixed neodymium magnet would provide us 100$ field strength as the base point with no shielding (just the magnet blocks alone);A fully shielded and connected system, like in a hook magnet combined with a U-style magnet, would reach above 400% here.....Adding witchcraft to the mix ;)Although I know better I just assume some of you have now a working double-three-phase-ceiling-fan-generator.And that would mean you also have some fans to spare from your long experiments.Modern ignition coils seem to have nothing in common with our ceiling fan or resulting generator.So why do I try to use them anyway?For the ignition only one polarity is prefered so the spark works and travels as intendet.Means the "wasted" energy from the othe half of the pulse seems to be lost.The electronics do a lot here but magnets too ;)The core of the coil has magents at either end, turning it into one long magnet that still has the right properties to act as high voltage transformer system with the coils.The coil appear to be pre-loaded and with the ignition pulse it has to overcome the magnetic field pre-set by the magnets.And when the electrical impulse is off the same magnets also accelerated and increase the resulting fall back impulse - which provides the spark.Unless you have a suitable laser cutter or simlar cutting tech available somehow it will be hard to modify the metal plates of the stator.But if you could...Imagine you could add magnet inside the plates that are inside a coil.The same pre-loading would happen.Does not really help in terms of adding outpur as our rectifier would suffer badly here.It does give ideas though...Shielding works fine for the magnets, same for field shaping.Electromagnets use the same techniques...So why not use some leftlever transformer cores to add more "shortcuts" for the coils?Strips of transformer core sheets added either side of the coils increase their field strenght and result in better output!Three packs either side of the stator pack are usually no problem.Now take your leftovers and do a standard mod.Compare the max output on the same windmill with what you get from my mod(s).The only real magic I used here is that I actually bothered to combine multiple and already used methods to drastically increase the available output of an otherwise utterly useless generator mod ;)Warnings:If you take the above mods serious and to the their extreme than it is imperative to make sure you have safety measures in place!Assume the lowest rating for the magnet wire and if in doubt stick with a max output voltage of 800V.These mods are potentially lethal if you don't follow what is common sense to everyone dealing with high voltages for a living!Most people will start without any gearing or belts and use the wind directly.Even here it is easy to get far higher RPM than what the thing ever did under your ceiling.Without some fixes you will need transformers to reduce the output voltage accordingly.Only other option is to limit the max speed to what your DC-DC converter can handle.Making mistakes with mangets can cost you a lot of time and work, make sure to mark their poles somehow to prevent putting them in wrong.If in doubt then double check!Always keep in mind what the magnet wires and your connections can handle!You don't want any arcs or overheating.Some added electronics to monitor wind speed, rpm's, load and temperature of the coils can turn out vital once you upscale.Before letting your new generator do its thing make sure you tested all to the max!Use a drill or so to speed it up and check the limit regulation for the converters.Measure the actual volts and amps going through your coil sets at assumed max speed and max load.Monitor the coil temp while doing so to ensure nothing is out of limit!You are kidding me here right?A scrap ceiling fan shall provide more output as a wind generator than what was used to spin it as a fan?And of course I need not one but two 3-phse transformers...Pretty clear it is all a fake because nobody could replicate any of it unless limited to what the converters can handle...Didn't I say to think outside normal restraints already?A single phase transformer uses two coils in the most basic configuration.For example one side for 240V and te other for 12V.But some of them are more efficient than other ;)A 3-phase transformer uses 6 coils, two for each phase.And there are plenty of standrad transformer cores out there that would allow us to use this configuration.The worst being the MOT, or microwave oven transformer.Very lossy for a reason but good as an example as these have three core stems ;)Now that you see that you will that a lot more transformers actually allow you to replace the two coils with 6 ;)Ok, but why not use a rectifier first and not use a transformer or two at all?The resulting output voltage will without a gear REDUCTION be much higher than what a cheap DC-DC converter can handle.And at such speeds the effiency would be very bad too.You would need huge capacitors of good quality to deal with the now more impulse like output.And considering the primary side of the transformer does not require anything thicker than the wire on the coils of the fan...Not hard at all to find some suitable tansformers to salvage - or to use some nice ring transformers ;)No kidding around, just facts and possible options you might want to explore.Does that now mean I get free energy?Sure, if you mean you get the free nergy from the energy of the wind at no cost.No if you think a ceiling fan could ever power your house.Internal resistance, size and wire/connection properties set our limits.Not to mention that they are designed to be dirt cheap.If you are in a windy region and assume a realistic 300W minimum output from a 100W fan then adding more stage multiplies this.These fancy upright windmills are not just powerful but also would allow to use one modded fan either end.If big enough and with enough wind force throughout the year you could just add a second or third stage to ech end.With 3 on both ends the resulting output would then be suddenly 1.8kW per windmill....And all from scrap parts with only the costs for the magnets...No wind? Then use water....None of it? Get some greyhounds and build a big hamster wheel :)You get the general idea I hope...

Topic by Downunder35m   |  last reply