I am looking for plans or instruction on building an induction heater for experiments I can share with my kids.
Question by thedude0311 | last reply
OK, I have disassembled a old electric tooth brush and I am trying to reduce the size and one of the things I have deemed unnecessary is the PCB that runs the timer built into the toothbrush. However, one thing I am wary of at this moment is that the toothbrush is a induction Charger which is a A/C and I don't know if I can just remove the board and be OK or do I need to rectify the current into D/C to continue charging the battery. If the latter is the case what do I need to achieve this?
Question by Jayccob | last reply
High frequency induction heating is basically a very efficient way to heat ferrous metals. Induction heating uses an powerful magnetic field to induce currents within the surface of the metal being heated. This means that the coil will not get hot unless the material being heated transfers heat to it. Induction heating is very efficient because no heat is wasted, no heat is wasted because the coil does not produce heat, the heat comes from the workpiece being heated only.
Topic by lyzyrdman | last reply
Some might have already tried my first induction heater, which was more a proof of concept than a modern device. Although I like to keep things simple where possible I want to upgrade my heater to a fully electronic version running on mains power. This time the base concept is to use a cheap induction cooktop for the control and power source. After using a few already as a communication device I realised it is a costly way of producing smoke signs but I am getting on the right track with the design now. So my obvious questions are: 1. Did actually anyone ever built my current induction heater and if so, can you provide some nice pics? 2. If you were interested in a hobby induction heater, what would like to do with it? E.g: Just for curiosity on how it works, heat treatment of punches, chisels and similar, heat treating knifes or even swords, sheet metal work.... 3. What would like to have included? E.g: Water cooling for continous use, air cooling (mostly for smaller and quick jobs), exchangable coils, additional micro controller for temp, water and remote control (foot panel or similar)... 4. Do you require a fully shielded version to avoid interference? 5. If you are based in AU (preferable VIC): Would you be able to donate me faulty (partially or fully) or working induction cooktops, for example discarded units with broken glass tops? Would you able to donate me copper tubing OD8mm or less? Leftovers from pluming installations, old LPS systems or similar? Prefered lenght 1m or longer as the coils need quite a few turns... :( Each donor will of course be listed in the Instructable unless you prefer to remain unnamed. Let me know what you think because this time I am not just building for myself, this time it is for you!
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
OK, this is another one of those questions I should know, but don't. Mainly because I have never done it before, I have a whim to build an electromagnetic launcher, something table-mounted with a range of around 3-5m (10-15 feet). I'm not after launching nails through Coke cans. I have been browsing the web, and the designs all seem to be much more complicated than is really necessary for toy. The image below is a scan of my badly-drawn thoughts of how simple it should be. Have I got that right? I plan to use a bunch of capacitors harvested from dead electronics and connected in parallel. Is there a recommended total capacitance for such a device? If launching a ring, must the ring slide over the ferrous core, or would there be enough umph to launch a ring balanced just past the end of the core?
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hi, I've recently bought a Clarke Induction Motor with these specs: 230V 1 Phase 2 h.p. 1.5 kW 1330 rpm 50 Hz 9.4 Amps Capacitor Details: 50 micro Farads 450 V I have been looking all over the internet on how to wire it up to go into 240V mains (UK) but I can't find a thing. In the terminal box there are 6 terminals labled V1, V2, U1, U2, W1, W2. A brown wire connected to U2 and a blue wire connected to W2 lead off to the capacitor. A red wire connected to V2 and a white wire also connected to W2 leads off into the motor. Another red wire connected to V1 and another white wire connected to W1 also lead off into the motor. Nothing is yet connected to U1. Please see the pictures which make this a lot clearer. (I have removed the capacitor from the blue catch for the photos) I have looked all over the internet and there seems to be no mention of anything. I basicly need to plug this into mains (therefore 3 wires, live, neutral and earth - obviously earth goes to the motor casing) So which wires go where? Also, the website of the shop that I bought it off said that a 10-16 Amp starter is required. What does this mean/do? Can you just plug it into the mains without this starter. It is probably obvious that I am somewhat of a rookie in motors! Thanks very much in advance for any help!
Question by Zouaoua | last reply
I am building a Tesla coil with a fairly poor primary coil. The primary coil is a conical 12.5mH (theoretically) but when I measured it with my multimeter the inductance kept jumping and was only doing so within the range of .05mH - 2mH why is this can it not measure conical coils?
Question by The MadScientist | last reply
Hi guys i have come across an induction motor out of a treadmill. it states on the lable that its single phase induction, 240 volt, 4 poles 3/4 hp. 1.7 amp 1420 rpm. question 1- is there any safe way to see if it works question 2 - can it be used for a small wind generator to charge 12volt batteries to light a shed question 3 - is best put in the trash where it came from any assistance advice would be appreciated
Question by sam301 | last reply
Several things I wanted to know, but couldn't find; If 2 AC outputs are of the same amplitude, but of different frequency, will one necessarily be higher in power? In a conventional transformer, (not resonant) does a higher frequency allow for higher efficiency coupling? Does this change if the transformer is resonant? Is a 'standard' transformer more efficient than a resonant one at a very close range? (Provided that frequency, power, etc. are all the same?) And lastly, does the resonant frequency of a resonant inductive coupling circuit affect the frequency at which it couples? (did that all make sense?) Thanks
Question by .Unknown. | last reply
I have an induction motor with three wires so I am now interested in how to make the generator of the induction motor , and what I need from the parts that made the induction generator . Induction motor is 40W and 230 V. Sorry for bad English if i wrote something wrong
Question by mrgaman | last reply
I need an induction heater to heat a half inch pice of round mild steel, i need a schematic and circuit diagram, if anyone knows where i can find this with parts i can get from maplin i would be most gratefull thanks in advance everyone martyn
Question by martyn158 | last reply
Hi, There video above shows a simple coilgun like device that shoot coins. In my understanding, it looks like a simple induction Coilgun design, since it repel coin away from the coil instead shoot the coin through the middle. However I have a hard time replicate the result. I use the same camera with the same capacitor (350V), and also use penny for the non magnetic projectile. Its the coil part I'm not sure about. In the video, it looks like a relevantly messy and small coil. Can anyone suggest me on the coil design for the same result? Most resources I found are either on reduction design or base on coilgun design instead this simple shooting mechanism. Thanks
Question by ljfa321 | last reply
Hey guys I've seen around the net that it's fairly easy to make a spot welder from a micro wave transformer /micro oven transformer. So I was thinking if it's possibly to use the same idea to make a induction furnace? I would like to use it for melting/ casting aluminum (...and possibly metals with a higher melting point... if possible) any idea if it's possible.. and how to?
Question by lordl9999 | last reply
The induction coil for funace that we wanted to make is to be used in power plant , gasification application. Which mean the induction coil produced must withstand or generate heat temperature more that 1700ËC. Kindly assist me on the following: 1) Name of the machine that make the induction coil (with brand, model and specification) 2) Manufacturer or supplier that sell or create this machine -Company name, Contact details, Country,website etc. 3) The price of the machine 4) Lead time to produce it I look forward to receive valuable advice and directions to my question. Thank you
Question by Yeemay1491 | last reply
Dear All..... In this circuit and formula on (GOOGLE). Please could you help me to know 3 questions: -How I can measure resonant frequency of this circuit, because it has 2 L and 2 C on this circuit?. - where I must to put the probes in this circuit for measures frequency? - If I want to used less power(less heating) I must change L or C or both? Thank you so much in advance for your time.
Question by lam | last reply
I purchased one Induction heater (2KW) in Korea where the supply voltage is 220V/50Hz. I want to use this in India where the supply voltage is 230V/50Hz. Can this be used?
Question by Eappen | last reply
I am currently working on a project that requires energy harvesting ,so i decided to use electromagnetic induction for the purpose. However I can not decided how to design my magnet and coil combination. All i know is i want 2.6-3.3v and 26mA for round about 4 ns. The setup in brief required a movable permanent magnet and a stationary coil. The moment of the permanent magnetic is like a oscillating pendulum just for once but with a sleed of say about 15km per hours. So can you please suggest me how should i start designing. thank you
Topic by SiddhantS6 | last reply
Among the many tutorials for building an induction heater out on the internet, there are two primary types. Some heaters use a ZVS circuit, and are quite simple but generally limited to a power of around 1000 watts, not enough to melt most metals. Other heaters use PLL controllers and coupling transformers to add charge the primary coil/capacitor loop, and these can be much more powerful but are significantly more complicated (and expensive) to build. It seems the limiting factor in the power of the ZVS circuits is that they can use only 2 MOSFETs, and each must conduct large amounts of current. However, if these could be replaced with IGBTs, which could conduct far more current, a much more powerful ZVS induction heater could be built. Is there any reason IGBTs couldn't be used for a ZVS heating circuit?
Topic by PleaseWork55
Hi, I tried to build a ZVS induction heater using this circuit http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5136/inductionm.jpg , but I had no sucess. The work coil is 10+10 turns of 22 AWG wire around an old highlighter casing, and I am powering the circuit from a working 12 volt 7ah battery. The circuit works with my flyback transformer, but does not work on the induction heater. I am using all of the standard components in the flyback circuit, but I replaced the 5+5 turn primary with a 10+10 work coil. As far as I mesured with my thermometer the temperature of the object never increases over 1 degree (I am trying to heat copper wire or a small picture nail). Does anyone have some suggestions? Edit: Sorry about the delay, but I was able to heat a large paper clip using 8+8 turns of 16 AWG wire wrapped around a glass test tube. This time I used a huge 24 volt center tap 18 amp transformer to get 12 volts.
Question by TimTD | last reply
I'm looking for people who are familiar with Inductive Charging. Would it be possible to do the same thing, but with grounding? Say like taking your own personal body charge and discharging it into the ground via field? I'm just thinking of grounding yourself for working around electronics in a way that can keep you really mobile while doing it. Or maybe even helping to block EMF.
Topic by technicallyartistic | last reply
I am working on a project and have a large tank full of product kind of a greasy substance trying to heat up to temp of 180 degrees. the tank currently has a 4 inch pipe running inside wall all around tank for heat transference.. At this location a boiler is not a option at this time . I was curious if anyone ha s ever attempted a large induction heater build one that would encase a 4 inch pipe and heat liquid inside so thermal transfer would heat our product. Sorry for not including all details at this time i just curious if large induction heat was possible or efficient ?Thanks,
Question by andy1917
I am gathering the parts for an ible, but I am short one part: a 12mH inductor.I can spot some inductors in electronic garbage - the wire coiled around a ferrite loop - but there are also solid state inductors. Plus, the inductors are not usually labelled with their values.How can I measure the inductance of an inductor with a volt-meter and an ammeter, but without access to a sine-wave generator?Is there some simple trick that would get me "close enough" to the true value? What would be really useful (but probably doesn't exist) is a chart or formula where you plug in the size of the core and the number of turns around it and out pops the inductance value. ?
Topic by Kiteman | last reply
Hi folks I'm new to this I was wondering if someone can help me with these questions I've answered them but I would like one of you expert folks to tell me if they are correct or where I'm going wrong Or if I have the correct formulas its just a question for an exam revision which I have soon. A coil of inductance 4H and resistance of 80Î© is connected in parallel with a 200Î© of resistor of negligible inductance across a 200v dc supply. The switch connecting these to the supply is then opened; the coil and resistor remain connected together. State in each case one for immediately before and one for immediately after opening the switch; The current Through the resistor Switch closed 200v/200Î© =1a Switch open 200v/80Î© =2.5a The current through the coil Switch Closed 200v/80Î© = 2.5a Switch open 200v/(200ohm +80Î©) = 0.714a The e.m.f induced in the coil Switch closed (2.5a*80Î©)/200v = 0v Switch Open 2.5a *(200Î© + 80Î©) = 700v The voltage across the coil Switch closed 200v/1a = 200v Switch open 2.5a * 200Î© = 500v
Topic by Andrew187 | last reply
Hi Guys and Gals,I'm a great fan of both the Electrograf and magnetic fridge lights instructables.Anybody have any idea as to the feasibility of building something similar, but where power was supplied inductively?Something like a large flat coil embedded just below the surface to which the leds are applied, and an AC current driving it? The leds would need careful preparation a la "magnetic fridge lights", but with a more substancial coil.I'm asking as I have no idea how large a voltage/current would be needed in practice in the primary coil to drive the 25mA or so at ~4V for the blue/white leds with what would probably be woeful power transmission.What would be nice is that the coil could be hidden and there be no wear-and-tear on a grid(which can't be varnished etc because it needs to stay electrically conductive).Also placement/orientation of leds could be arbitrary (subject to design of coil).
Topic by ningo
Yes, I know it's nearly 3am on the east coast... but and idea struck me. So the idea is to feed small amounts of mechanical power into the power grid. Not necessarily run the meter backwards, but supplement power consumption.I've researched grid tie inverters - which are very expensive. For those wondering, a grid tie inverter is feeds mains power back into the grid by syncing phase angle and phase (no dead shorts :) ) and applying slightly higher voltage. They are very efficient and really not within a college student experiment budget :pSo I was thinking... Rather than go from mechanical to DC to AC to grid - go from mechanical to AC to grid VIA an induction motor. As a proof of concept, use a DC motor + battery to turn an induction motor. Plugged into the grid, in theory, should apply current. Oh, but the phase you say? How do you prevent a dead short?"I've thought of this -- before applying mechanical power - have the grid bring the induction motor up to speed. Then try to turn faster (apply a torque) with the DC motor, for example. In theory, the amount of extra power put into the grid will be related to the slip angle of the motor - which will also control the speed of the input (so you can't go over speed by too much).Keep in mind that this whole battery business is just a proof of concept sort of thing - I'm not talking perpetual motion or any hohaa craziness. In the end, the final mechanical input will be around 200 watts. I expect this to be very low efficiency (likely 50%ish), 100W isn't an answer to the energy issues - but it's an experiment. It's also not going to come even close to driving the meter backwards, but it should run (as supplement) my laptop + two to three 13w CFL's :DI think the theory is feasible -- the inspiration comes from flywheel driven UPS systems. An induction motor is driven while mains power is on to keep a flywheel in motion. When the power goes out, the FW drives the motor and feeds to local grid.I'm thinking of using a "low" rpm induction motor.... If I recall, ceiling fans are 16 pole? So that's 60Hz2*2/16=450rpm... Add ceiling fan motor to the list of things to hunt for :) Looking at the one above my head, it looks like it even has a nice bolt pattern for some sort of pulley shenanigans :DCan someone either throw some ice water on me and slap me for being an idiot -- or let me know if I've found a boat to Valhalla.Oh, and my apologies for dancing around the "mechanical input" details.... There's a reason for this, I promise :) In any case, insight and information is appreciated :)
Topic by trebuchet03 | last reply
Hey all, I had an idea I wanted to try. As you may know, recycling tires for projects isn't nearly as cool as it sounds. Since most street tires are steel-belted, about the only part you can even use is the sidewalls. :P My idea for getting the (much cooler) tread part off was to use an inductive heater to heat just the steel belting inside, then (hopefully) just yank the tread layer off with a ginormous pair of pliers. The problem is that actual inductive ranges are a $100+ for even a single burner unit. Couple that with the very real possibility that my little experiment could damage it beyond repair... not exactly a recipe for success. So now my question: Does anybody have a schematic, instructions, and/or (please, please) instructible for how to build my own inductive heater? Thanks in advance, -me
Topic by PS118 | last reply
Need new or used SCR for induction furnes! please any one who can help me! i need an SCR (Thyristor) , i dont care if its used or unused, i just cant justify the cost of a new one till i can be sure it will work; look at the picture below, iam replaceing the spark gap with an SCR. I put a drawing of a tesla coil diagram to compare with a simple spark gap induction drawing. $5 to $10 is in my price range till i know it will work. (voltage or amperage doesnt matter i would just like to see what there capable or if i can make it work for an induction furnes.)
Topic by Danielro10 | last reply
Hi, i want to know how data from sensor is transfered by coil through magnetic induction to another coil ? i know its range can be increased by relay coils but how to append data to the magnetic flux.. its really confusing . pls some one help me thanks in advance
Topic by rockindud | last reply
Can a security tag ? wired and connected to the battery be placed inside a mobile,and then place it the phone on the conductor for a mobile phone induction charger i trying to make it
Topic by dmoloch | last reply
When a magnet is agitated near to a circuit, it induces current in it. But this current is alternative, right? So does it exist some batteries that can charge with an alternative current? Because in fact, most of batteries charge with a direct current given by a transformater, or so it causes damage, don't it? And so, how can we calculate the number of spires of the inductance that give the best way of charging batteries? And what is the law expressing the current variation knowing the magnetic strip variation? A lot of questions, I'm just curious . So thanks in advance for having read my question, hope you can help
Question by petitjosdu91 | last reply
Hey ppl, I bought an energizer wii induction charger earlier this year. A few months later, I started getting a red flashinglight on the charger and the batteries wouldn't charge anymore. I got the battery packs replaced because it was still under warranty, and I still have the old battery packs. I opened them up because they're pretty simple to dismantle (just 2 screws) and there are two unbranded AAA batteries. I was wondering if any rechargeable AAA battery can be used with it. Also any ideas on other possible uses for this induction hardware? Check out the pics below:
Topic by atomicrabbit | last reply
So a few days ago I saw a slideshow on how to make an induction heater. I thought that was really cool. However the circuit the author used to drive the work coil only had two functions, on and off. The author claims the circuit can drive 24VAC at 180 kHz. I was wondering if anybody knows of a circuit that can drive 24VAC with a variable frequency, between 100 kHz and 200 kHz. Thanks in advance!
Question by junits15 | last reply
I've been working on creating a solar powered inductive charger. I've only just started in my electronics class, so I don't quite know what to do about it. I've planned to simply modify the existing circuit designs of inductive chargers to make it solar powered, however I do not quite know where to start nor which parts to modify.
Question by electronics newbie | last reply
Realistically, how difficult would it be to DIY a passive RFID system where the tag simply reacts by lighting a low power LED. Catch is, i would want it to have an effective range of at least 1m. Could i build the EM emitter myself, or would i have to buy a high power reader?
Question by R3born | last reply
Hello fellow people. i am about to make some copper coils to use to create electrcity when i pass my magnets. i am new to this are of work and this is a home project for myself, any information would help greatly, and also some links to youtube videos that are very clear o understand as im not the 'quick' with things i dont understand. so.... i am using 25mm x 10mm x 3mm (lengh/width/depth) neodymuim magnets, rectangular shape, and im using 2mm insulated copper wire. i have purchased 30 of these magnets and am planning to stack them in sets of 4, and have six sets, and idealy make six coils for the magnets to pass, the coils being stationary and the magnets on a peice of wood that rotates via a pully. what size should i make my coils? i understand my coils inside diamiter should be the same size as the longest part of my magnet, ie;25mm, but how wide should my coil be? thats the bit that eludes me, i have added a picture to try help my explanation if this helps, thanks in advance for any information that you can give.
Question by MAR5HM3LL0W | last reply
Several questions: -Calculate the force of a linear induction motor from the magnetic field/current (aluminum induced surface)? -How does one determine the direction in which is moves considering the magnetic fields are not static and there isn't a second magnet since it is just an aluminum induction surface? -Is there an optimal current frequency for a linear induction motor? -Is there any way to make a single phase Linear induction motor, and avoid using 3 phase current?
Question by amelius | last reply
This is the start of an intended discussion about using induction heat to melt glass and other various metal.
Topic by JuxtaposedIToldYouSo | last reply
Having seen the microwave transformer welding kit and similar projects I started wondering about this one... Induction cookers are basically one side of a transformer and usually just dissipate current in to the pot to heat up the pot. But they've a high number of coils and I've seen them rated at 3000 watts, so if you made a coil that was a few turns of thick wire to be the other side of the transformer you'd possibly be able to have a huge current low voltage supply similar to the microwave oven welder. I imagine there'd be safety devices that may need disabled but the idea of your oven being a welder seems cool to me, especially if someone had a need to weld often and their kitchen was through to their garage.
Question by killerjackalope | last reply
Using an induction motor to produce electricity
Question by kalamos | last reply
My father and I are currently restoring a metal-working lathe, however, we do not have 3 phase power to power the original 0.5HP 3 phase motor. We do, however, have a slightly smaller 0.25HP motor. At first appearance, it seemed to be a simple AC/DC brushed motor with a field and winding on the armature. There was no wiring diagram supplied with it, but in one configuration (what appeared to be the ameuture and field coils) are wired in parallel for 120V operation. This did not seem right, since the field coils will be simply shorted across the mains, but I assumed that since we are dealing with AC and inductors, this is OK. It works flawlessly, but reversing the polarity of either the fields or armature would cause the motor to sit and buzz. If started manually, it took off slowly but sounded awful. I need the motor to rotate in both directions and do not have enough materials to do this mechanically. On closer inspection after dismantling the motor, it appears there are 4 brushes, connected together in 2 pairs. They are not directly connected to anything. The 4 wires coming out seem to be just for wiring both field coils in either series of parallel for 110V and 220V operation respectfully. Perhaps even more strange, the 4 brushes are mounted on a centripetal switch, which disengage the brushes from the armature. I was able to make out on the rust that it said "revolution induction motor." So I reasoned out that after the fields are energized, it will induce an electrical current in a few of the coils on the armature, and the energy would flow to the other 2 sets of brushes, causing a different set of coils on the amature to energize and this would initially start the motor. After it gets going, the switch disconnects all the brushes and the motor operates as a simple induction motor. My father used to rebuild motors for a small company, and this is in fact one of the motors he repaired. Although he is skilled at this practice, he does not understand the operation of induction motors and can only figure out wiring by strictly following a diagram or trial and error. I am curious about what this type of motor even is, and how it works! In th meantime, I will research induction motors and how they work, and see what I can learn.
Question by -max- | last reply
It is being used in a magnetic pick and place machine using four bar linkage. The inductive switch is being used in such a way that if the metal ball will be detected in the detection area. the four bar linkage will move towards the ball where the inductive switch is located, and carry and transfer it to the desired area.
Question by belovebluesky | last reply