I am looking for plans or instruction on building an induction heater for experiments I can share with my kids.
Question by thedude0311 | last reply
Some might have already tried my first induction heater, which was more a proof of concept than a modern device. Although I like to keep things simple where possible I want to upgrade my heater to a fully electronic version running on mains power. This time the base concept is to use a cheap induction cooktop for the control and power source. After using a few already as a communication device I realised it is a costly way of producing smoke signs but I am getting on the right track with the design now. So my obvious questions are: 1. Did actually anyone ever built my current induction heater and if so, can you provide some nice pics? 2. If you were interested in a hobby induction heater, what would like to do with it? E.g: Just for curiosity on how it works, heat treatment of punches, chisels and similar, heat treating knifes or even swords, sheet metal work.... 3. What would like to have included? E.g: Water cooling for continous use, air cooling (mostly for smaller and quick jobs), exchangable coils, additional micro controller for temp, water and remote control (foot panel or similar)... 4. Do you require a fully shielded version to avoid interference? 5. If you are based in AU (preferable VIC): Would you be able to donate me faulty (partially or fully) or working induction cooktops, for example discarded units with broken glass tops? Would you able to donate me copper tubing OD8mm or less? Leftovers from pluming installations, old LPS systems or similar? Prefered lenght 1m or longer as the coils need quite a few turns... :( Each donor will of course be listed in the Instructable unless you prefer to remain unnamed. Let me know what you think because this time I am not just building for myself, this time it is for you!
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Among the many tutorials for building an induction heater out on the internet, there are two primary types. Some heaters use a ZVS circuit, and are quite simple but generally limited to a power of around 1000 watts, not enough to melt most metals. Other heaters use PLL controllers and coupling transformers to add charge the primary coil/capacitor loop, and these can be much more powerful but are significantly more complicated (and expensive) to build. It seems the limiting factor in the power of the ZVS circuits is that they can use only 2 MOSFETs, and each must conduct large amounts of current. However, if these could be replaced with IGBTs, which could conduct far more current, a much more powerful ZVS induction heater could be built. Is there any reason IGBTs couldn't be used for a ZVS heating circuit?
Topic by PleaseWork55 | last reply
I need an induction heater to heat a half inch pice of round mild steel, i need a schematic and circuit diagram, if anyone knows where i can find this with parts i can get from maplin i would be most gratefull thanks in advance everyone martyn
Question by martyn158 | last reply
Hi, I tried to build a ZVS induction heater using this circuit http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/5136/inductionm.jpg , but I had no sucess. The work coil is 10+10 turns of 22 AWG wire around an old highlighter casing, and I am powering the circuit from a working 12 volt 7ah battery. The circuit works with my flyback transformer, but does not work on the induction heater. I am using all of the standard components in the flyback circuit, but I replaced the 5+5 turn primary with a 10+10 work coil. As far as I mesured with my thermometer the temperature of the object never increases over 1 degree (I am trying to heat copper wire or a small picture nail). Does anyone have some suggestions? Edit: Sorry about the delay, but I was able to heat a large paper clip using 8+8 turns of 16 AWG wire wrapped around a glass test tube. This time I used a huge 24 volt center tap 18 amp transformer to get 12 volts.
Question by TimTD | last reply
Hey all, I had an idea I wanted to try. As you may know, recycling tires for projects isn't nearly as cool as it sounds. Since most street tires are steel-belted, about the only part you can even use is the sidewalls. :P My idea for getting the (much cooler) tread part off was to use an inductive heater to heat just the steel belting inside, then (hopefully) just yank the tread layer off with a ginormous pair of pliers. The problem is that actual inductive ranges are a $100+ for even a single burner unit. Couple that with the very real possibility that my little experiment could damage it beyond repair... not exactly a recipe for success. So now my question: Does anybody have a schematic, instructions, and/or (please, please) instructible for how to build my own inductive heater? Thanks in advance, -me
Topic by PS118 | last reply
1) What voltage do they use? Would 12v, 110v, or 1kv work best? 2) Would simply directing the power into the heating coil work? Or do they need supporting circuitry? 3) What frequency should be used? Will low frequency AC such as 60 hz work, or will I need to step it up into the khz range?
Question by LiquidLightning | last reply
I purchased one Induction heater (2KW) in Korea where the supply voltage is 220V/50Hz. I want to use this in India where the supply voltage is 230V/50Hz. Can this be used?
Question by Eappen | last reply
Dear All..... In this circuit and formula on (GOOGLE). Please could you help me to know 3 questions: -How I can measure resonant frequency of this circuit, because it has 2 L and 2 C on this circuit?. - where I must to put the probes in this circuit for measures frequency? - If I want to used less power(less heating) I must change L or C or both? Thank you so much in advance for your time.
Question by lam | last reply
Hi. I am Paulo from Portugal. I am trying to build that 30Kva from instructables.com but i need some help. I tryed to contact Mr Wang with no sucess. I have some amateur knowledge about electronics only. I need that machine to melt some exotic steel. It seems you are familiar with that 30kva project. Can someone help me with some answers? I would be grafeful.I already read several times that instructions and to start my first questions are: 1)What for and where connect that 4-position rotary connector? 2) what the exact specs of the main capacitors? About capacitors i found throught ebay the square black box connected on first IGVT is a snubber with specs 20uF and 800V - where to find this one? At ebay only 2nd hand... The other capacitor at the 2nd IGVT can read at scheme specs are 920uF - But how many volts?? - where to buy? And the last one of tank circuit same problem - Can read at scheme is a 3.75uF and also a "high-quality polypropylene or mica giant snubber capacitor" - How many volts?? - Where to buy? I really would apreciate your help if possible. My contact is email@example.com . Thanks in advance and best regards. Paulo. Hope to listen from you soon.
Topic by REDMACHINE-A
So a few days ago I saw a slideshow on how to make an induction heater. I thought that was really cool. However the circuit the author used to drive the work coil only had two functions, on and off. The author claims the circuit can drive 24VAC at 180 kHz. I was wondering if anybody knows of a circuit that can drive 24VAC with a variable frequency, between 100 kHz and 200 kHz. Thanks in advance!
Question by junits15 | last reply
Hello, Idea: I'm trying to build a circuit which uses an OpAmp to drive 2 mosfets, which power the LC tank of an induction heater. The idea is to detect when the voltage over the LC tank crosses zero, and at that voltage I would make the 2 outputs of the OpAmp change states from fully on, to fully off. The two OpAmps (both inside one chip) have their positive and negative inputs connected to eachother, but with reversed polarity. This would make sure that one output is high, and the other one is low. Why use an OpAmp? I wanted the MOSFET gate switching to go faster as usually, because in the mazzilli circuit, the gate voltage actually slews at the same rate as the LC tank's voltage slews when it crosses zero volts. In the mazzilli circuit, it actually doesn't switch when the voltage is 0v, but when the tank voltage drops below the gate threshold voltage. This would mean that you are always switching current at 5v (for example) instead of at 0V. So for these two reasons, I wanted to try switching them with an OpAmp. Measurements: Probe I on drain 1, probe II on drain 2, and GND on the circuit's ground, gives me an expected result: when switching states, at 0 voltage of the LC tank, the voltage on one side stays low (since it's pulled to ground) and the voltage on the other side goes from 0v up to 50v, back down to 0v, like a sine-wave. Then the OpAmps switch again, and the one side now goes up to 50v as a sine wave, and the other one stays low at 0v. All good, this is working just fine. Probe I on the one differential input line, probe II on the other differential input line. Since this is nothing more than just a 1/10 voltage division of the previous measurement, I'm also expecting the signal to be exactly the same, but 11x smaller. -> problem: However, this does not happen. Because of some strange reason, as you can see in the scope images: Both channels go high, Twice per cycle, instead of going high only once per cycle, and staying low for the next half of the cycle. This really isn't good! Do the inputs affect the waveform in some way? Remarks about scope images: Image: 2 gates Blue gate voltage seems 'quite' fine. Turning on looks good, turning off is not really good becuse if tends to turn on for a short time once again, before it fully turns off. Yellow gate voltage is terrible. Turning on doesn't happen as expected. Voltage drops back to 0 for a long while which is very bad for the circuit. Frequency seems fine; 50kHz is as expected with the 14µH and 6µF. Image: 2 drain voltages These voltages were measured with a 1-10 voltage divider, and thus show only 1/11th of the actual voltage. This is getting close to what I want the LC tank to do. The voltages seem quite like sine waves. I suspect that if the gate voltages would be as they should be, these drain voltages would also be perfect sine waves. The regular sine amplitude of 50V is as expected, with a 24V supply voltage, but at the moments when the drain voltages strangely drop down to 0v, as you can see in image: '2 gates', at these moments the drain voltage seems to spike over 250V!! Image: 2 differential input lines This is the image which I don't understand. I expect the same wave as in the previous picture, but only 11 times smaller because of the voltage divider. However, the voltage does NOT reach 0v while the drain voltage does, and its shape is also completely different. In this image, both channels are doing one (half) sine wave, twice per switching period. They should be LOW for half a period, as the drain voltages do in the previous image. Better quality images: 2 gates 2 drain voltages 2 differential input lines schematic Datasheets: OpAmp: http://cds.linear.com/docs/en/datasheet/1497f.pdf MOSFETS: http://www.vishay.com/docs/91262/91262.pdf Coils and capacitors: Line inductor value: I'm not sure if this value is correct. Center-tapped main coil inductance: This value should be pretty correct, I calculated it by measuring it's size and windings, and the operating frequency is also nearly the same as the calculated one. tank capacitance: 6 times a 1µf MKP capacitor Questions: - Why these strange large spikes? - Why is the waveform suddenly different when reading it near the differential inputs? For the first time ever, I can provide you with scope images! I finally bought a (quite cheap) oscilloscope. I hope it helps a lot. Oh, and one more thing: The induction heater does actually work already. I'm getting huge currents in the LC tank, since the 6mm copper tubing gets hot after a minute. Water cooling has been added, and it works like a charm! The MOSFETS do get quite hot after 15 seconds of heating an object, or after 40 seconds of heating nothing. This, probably because the gate voltage isn't what it should be. Kind regards, Electorials
Question by DELETED_Electorials | last reply
After being done with 555oscillators and other hv projects. i am now interested with induction heater. i have seen multiple schematics on how to make them. However the parts needed are expensive. there was a similar question posted last year but did not have enough information etc. i have seen some people making the induction heater with the zvs driver of mazzilli, but did not give enough information on how to make it. i need to wind 8+8turns on a flyback transformer core and 4 turns of thick wire one the other side to give more current. 1. can i wind the 8+8 turns on a toroidal core instead of a flyback transformer core(i don't want to break it even if i have more than 5) 2. for the capacitor 0.68uf. can a big 10uf 400v~ capacitor be used instead? or should i use 3X 0.22uf 400v~ in parallel so that it don't over heat due to high currents? 3. Will 2X 12v 35Ah car battery in series be enough to power the driver? i mean, will it drain the battery too fast which will lower its life span or should i use a rewound MOT? 4. Will a 2500uf 50v capacitor connected across the power supply be needed to smooth the current or will the circuit run finely without it.
Question by ARJOON | last reply
Hello there! I want to create a ZVS induction heater but I don't fully understand yet how the coils need to be driven. I haven't started yet with building it, but I already wanted to check if the induction heating effect was working, so I connected a coil onto my high current DC blockwave generator and nothing really happens. it's a PWM controller which switches between 0V and the applied voltage. Is it because it sends DC signals to the coil, and the magnetic field goes into saturation? If so, I added a capacitor in series with the coil, to filter out the DC component but now nothing happens. There is nearly no current flowing trough the circuit. I'd also need some information on what influences the intensity of the heating? Is it the Amp*Turns that matters? because we're using high frequency here to lower the required current; but if it's amp*turns then we need the current to be as high as possible. So something's wrong there in the way I thought this works :/ I do know how the material gets heated. (by eddy currents that increase if the flux alternates at higher amplitudes) also, at what voltage should the coil be switched? does the voltage matter? Should I use something like 12v? 40v? or even 2v of I only need high current? I do know that the use of the high frequency is to increase skin effect in the material to be heated, but what other reasons are there for using such high frequency? Is it also because eddy currents will increase at higher frequency? If so, why would this happen? A lot of questions indeed :) but I'm not going to start copy-pasting the circuit, and then just being happy that it's working. I also need to know Why it works, and how! Thanks in advance, Electorials
Question by DELETED_Electorials | last reply
I am working on a project and have a large tank full of product kind of a greasy substance trying to heat up to temp of 180 degrees. the tank currently has a 4 inch pipe running inside wall all around tank for heat transference.. At this location a boiler is not a option at this time . I was curious if anyone ha s ever attempted a large induction heater build one that would encase a 4 inch pipe and heat liquid inside so thermal transfer would heat our product. Sorry for not including all details at this time i just curious if large induction heat was possible or efficient ?Thanks,
Question by andy1917
I have a Bosch HBL745 electric oven (2 actually) but the induction heater element keeps burning out on one of them. I have watched the repair once and it looks easy, but it would be nice to have a procedure. For example, does the oven need to be fully removed from the wall unit or can the repair be done in place?
Question | last reply
I am creating a giant i duction heater, and I need 1.5 in diameter copper cables. Where can I find one to buy? Or do I have to make one? Or is there an entirley better way to make an induction heater?
Question by anul20 | last reply
No modern kitchen these days is complete without at least a single induction cooktop.Convient to even place on the table to keep things warm but also nice to have 4 or 6 "hotplates" to cook on that are actually not getting hot at all.When it comes to efficiency induction cooking tops all others as no heat is wasted.Which brings me to the point...A single cooktop goes now often for well under 50 bucks.Although the base might end up slightly higher than a normal kettle I fail to see why we don't have induction kettles in our kitchen.Why wait 12 minutes to have the thing boil if you can do it cheaper and faster?Way more convinient too as there is no pesky contacts and heating elements anymore, no failure due to leaks either...But what really got me wondering is the hot water systems or heating options like prefered in Europe.Here you have a central "boiler" so to say and water circulates through valves into finned radiators, usually located under windows.We have oil filled radiators of this kind as free standing units that are now being phased out because they waste too much energy with their heating elements.Same story for just hot water :(On demand systems are getting more popular now outside Europe but still the common solution is to have a few hundret liters of water in a tank that is kept hot no matter how much of it we use.Be is gas or electric both types have their drawbacks and to get ahead of the corrosion that always kills them we now opt for expensive stainless steel tanks...Using induction it would be very easy to have a fully sealed tank and to actually only heat what needs to be heated without wasting too much energy.The "heating" element could be just a steel plate inside the tank with no connections to the outside.The gap between wall and element doubles to make the water circulate.And changing from a fixed timer to a temperatur control system to turn the induction element on and off is not hard either.Do you have an induction based hot water system, heater or maybe kettle already?Would love to see it...
Topic by Downunder35m | last reply
Background: A nice member noticed an induction heater "kit" on Ebay and commented about it. After a lot of digging I found some pictures and technical details on the web - Google translate might be funny at times but was a real help for my bad chinese skills... Turned out the shematics for this heater are identical to my design. Sure they use a different mosfets and and create a nice looking circuit board for all but it does not change the fact that my design drives it. One chinese wholeseller is selling them in 500pcs bulk. Current problem: I am working on the next generation of my induction heater based on an induction cooktop. Since the power levels are much higher and more option possible I think it will be a great project loved by a lot of people. But I feel reluctant to publish it in a detailed form that can be used by everyone to re-create it as I fear it will end up on Ebay as well. So far I can't even estimate how much profit some chinese guy is making while laughing at me and for obvious reasons I would like to prevent that from happening to 2.0 as well... Is there any way to protect my designs or to get hands on the chinaman to strangle some money back out of him?
Question by Downunder35m | last reply
Hey... I'm new here and I will like to say that I like many of the cool things people are doing in this site and I will like try making some of your ideas someday...And thanks for posting them... =) . Ok I have a power conditioner that has a big transformer and I wanted to know what I can make with it. This is the spec on the unit - BRAND is- ONEAC model# CS1110 its 50/60 HZ 1 phase. Power input 120 VAC 8.8amp Output 120 VAC 8.4 amp . Its a really heavy piece. What I will like to do is make a spot welder since I need one but I'm not sure if I can use this transformer to make it. maybe an Induction heater,Welder, I'm in for experimenting with something new...I don't want to take this apart yet until I know what can be made with it first because I know it may be worth alot more if I just sell it. I seen alot of cool things done made with transformers..Any suggestion and ideas will be appreciated . Here are the pics. thanks
Question by PitStoP | last reply
Using metallurgical powders with a precision depositing feeder, layout a layer at a time (obviously) of the part you want to develop within a certain size parameter. Lower the layer into an induction heater coil to raise the temperature of the powder to just below the melting point then hit it with a low power laser to melt the powder together to make the part, again layer by layer. Theoretically removing the need for high power lasers and either a vacuum chamber running constantly or a constant stream of shielding gas. Edit: You apply a vacuum or shielding gas only during the fusion cycle, hence the induction furnace. Removes the need for expensive vacuum chambers or heavy use of shielding.
Question by malleolus | last reply
In my design classroom project, my students want to build a 230V AC electric immersion heater (for heating water in a bucket) whose duration of heating the user should be able to set. The user should be able to set the ON duration by pressing up- and down- keys (operating 2 switches) to increase or decrease numbers that show on a dual 7-segment display (for showing 1-99). The numbers that show in the 7-segment display is the time in minutes the heater should stay on for and then switch itself off. Please guide me to a circuit that would do the above. All our induction cookers, washing machines, etc have this interface, I know this is not something new, but not being an electronics person I don't know where and with what terminology to look. Please help.
Question by ranjit_k | last reply